Passionflower to regulate acne

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November 12, 2024

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, has announced the launch of Recellcl'in, a new active ingredient for oily, acne-prone skin.

"For this product launch, we have drawn on the power of polyphenols from the heart of passionflower, to turn a traditionally-used plant into an innovative cosmetic active ingredient. Passionflower has always been used to help with insomnia and anxiety. It has also been shown to have antioxidant effects. This plant is therefore the perfect candidate for the beauty axis that brings together these biological mechanisms: oily skin with a tendency to acne. This type of skin mainly affects women throughout their lives (adolescence, pre/post-pregnancy, menopause, etc.). The causes are diverse (genetics, dysbiosis of the microbiota, stress, etc.) and the impact on the emotional state is major. Groupe Berkem's R&D team has identified an innovative mechanism of action in this area. By reactivating autophagy, a cellular recycling process, Recellcl'in passionflower extract acts on sebo-regulation, bringing a mattifying effect and well-being. Passionflower is therefore the obvious conclusion of a scientific experiment that could be entitled: Revive the power of autophagy to rebalance oily skin.¹ ", said Marlène De Matos, Head of Asset Development & R&D Innovation at Groupe Berkem.

Recellcl'in is obtained by extracting the aerial parts (stems, leaves and flowers) of Passiflora incarnata, The plants are organically grown and produced in France to ensure ethical and local sourcing.

The ingredient's innovative mechanism of action is based on reactivation of the sebocyte autophagy system, regulation of sebum production, prevention of sebum oxidation and a soothing effect.

According to Groupe Berkem, this new ingredient offers three beauty benefits: regulation of hyperseborrhea²It reduces skin shine and minimizes pore size. It can be incorporated into skin care products for oily and acne-prone skin, mattifying and sebum-regulating skin care products, or pore minimizers.³ ".

Recellcl'in was presented at In-Cosmetics Asia, held in Bangkok from November 5 to 7, 2024.

_{1. Revive the power of autophagy to rebalance oily skin.}
_{2. Excess sebum, skin imbalance leading to acne.}
_{3. Facial care to tighten pores.}

_{Photo: hartono subagio / Pixabay}

Evonik joins forces with Kolmar to innovate on the Chinese beauty market

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The editorial staff

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November 11, 2024

The German Evonik Group and Kolmar Cosmetics (Wuxi), have signed a strategic partnership agreement in Wuxi, China. This collaboration aims to stimulate innovation in the field of raw materials, including sustainable ingredients, sun care, color cosmetic solutions and active ingredients, as well as research into new formulations and the regular exchange of market information.

Sharing a common vision of creating high-performance, sustainable solutions, Evonik and Kolmar Wuxi will leverage their mutual global and local expertise in specialty chemicals, as well as in cosmetics R&D and production, to inspire and support the modernization of China's beauty industry.

"We are delighted with this in-depth collaboration with Kolmar, which not only strengthens our business but also underlines our commitment to customer-centric innovation, explains Alix Chen, General Manager of Evonik's Care Solutions division in the Greater China region. With a more local organizational structure, we can respond more quickly and accurately to market demands in the region."

"High-quality ingredients are essential for growth in the highly competitive cosmetics market. Kolmar Wuxi is honored to collaborate with a leading ingredient supplier like Evonik. This partnership is poised to enhance the value chain, create new opportunities and inspire the development and application of sustainable ingredients. Together, we aim to drive the transformation and advancement of the industry."said Kim Jungho, President of Kolmar Wuxi.

Kolmar Wuxi, a subsidiary of Kolmar Korea, one of Korea's leading ODM/OBM cosmetics manufacturers, boasts a rich corporate history, strong R&D capabilities and extensive production experience. The company is actively developing in the Chinese cosmetics market and has successfully supported the growth and development of many local beauty brands.

Evonik's Care Solutions division aims to become the industry's preferred partner for sustainable specialties, with a portfolio that enables its customers to meet the demand for sustainable, scientifically-supported beauty and personal care products. This business area also plays a key role in the transformation of Evonik's Life Sciences division, Nutrition & Care.

_{Photo : ©}_{Evonik Industries AG}

Rissmann: light reflections on recyclable packaging

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The editorial staff

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November 11, 2024

RISMMANN - SHOPPING BAG - augmentedreality - RGB

RGB screen printing, hot stamping, microembossing and multimedia experiences: Rissmann explores new avenues.

The intense hues of Rissmann's new creation come from sustainable water-based inks screen-printed by LackWerkstatt on black Fedrigoni paper, also using the specific technology of RGB printing. Merck's RGB pearlescent pigments interact dynamically with light from all angles.

The hot stamping process was used to add metallic highlights to thin rings or to imitate glittering stardust. Gold transfer finishing and microembossing highlight the textured relief of the planet, which seems to escape from the background. Finally, flat transfer pictograms reveal packaging and logos, like the stars of the universe.

A QR code to be scanned on the packaging then allows the journey to continue, offering a multimedia experience thanks to augmented reality, powered by snoop it, a brand of snoopstar.

Presented on paper bags, this design can be used on any type of packaging printed on dark-colored paper. The packaging is designed to be fully recyclable.

Lessonia wins Crisalide Industrie award for its environmental commitment

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The editorial staff

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November 8, 2024

Lessonia, contract manufacturer of cosmetic ingredients and products for national and international brands, won the Trophée Crisalide Industrie in the "Reducing the impact of its activity on the environment" category.

Crisalide Industrie is a partnership scheme that stimulates and supports innovative projects by small and medium-sized businesses in Brittany.

"This award is recognition of our work and our vision, but above all an encouragement to go even further in our approach to sustainable innovation. At Lessonia, we believe it's possible to create high-performance beauty products while reducing their ecological impact, and this award is proof of that."said Marion Lagadec, Lessonia's Marketing and Communications Manager.

For the past two years, Lessonia has been investing in R&D for responsible cosmetics. In 2023, the company launched a range of powder and tablet cosmetics for rehydration and recharging, offering brands new ways to commit to the ecological transition.

According to Lessonia, an internal product lifecycle study shows that these solutions reduce energy consumption, water use and CO2 emissions by over 50 %. A considerable advance for the cosmetics industry, whose environmental footprint is a major issue.

New for 2024: a rehydrating powder face cream combining sensoriality, quality, durability and respect for the environment. Lessonia reports that initial environmental analyses show an impact reduction of 60 to 70 % for this product.

The Crisalide Industrie Awards ceremony took place in Vannes on October 22, 2024, as part of the Open de l'Industrie. Over 600 industrial players were present. Ten Breton companies were in the running. Three of them received awards.

Avon awards supplier prize to Aptar Beauty

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The editorial staff

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November 8, 2024

Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing systems, has been awarded the "Aptar Beauty" supplier prize. Partner Beyond Limits "in the category " Commitment for Life "from Avon International.

Aptar Beauty's commitment to a more sustainable packaging offer by transforming an existing pack that did not meet its sustainability objectives was thus rewarded.

In a collaborative effort, the Micro airless has been redesigned to reduce its environmental impact and carbon emissions, thanks in particular to a new decoration technique and the integration of recycled material.

Aptar Beauty's CSR teams, R&D centers and entire supply chain worked together to transform the packaging used for Anew Clinical anti-wrinkle smoothing serum into a more sustainable solution. The result: 44 % of post-consumer recycled (PCR) resin is now used for the raw material, and the silver hot stamping has been removed to improve its average recyclability score.

The new Micro Eco version has a reduced carbon footprint of 27.6 % (CO2eq), calculated using Aptar Beauty's eco-design tool, developed in collaboration with Sphera. In addition, the elimination of hot stamping has enabled savings to be passed on to the customer.

"Thanks to Bénédicte Luisi, Product Sustainability Manager, and her team, we have calculated the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) of both solutions and compared the benefits for the customer. This is a perfect example of how a sustainable transformation can also lead to cost savings. I'd like to thank Avon for its courage and willingness to see this project through, as well as everyone involved, including the supply chain at our Aptar Villingen site, who helped us keep to schedule."said Domenico Sardaro, Key Account Manager, Aptar Beauty EMEA.

Avon launched this challenge last year, encouraging its suppliers to "dare to excel". The award was presented at Avon International's Supplier Day, held in Warsaw, Poland, on June 5, 2024.

Robertet announces the acquisition of Phasex

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The editorial staff

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7 November 2024

Robertet, a Grasse-based global specialist in natural raw materials for fragrances and flavors, has announced the signing of an agreement to acquire Phasex, an expert in supercritical CO2 extraction technology and the company's supplier since 2018.

Based in Massachusetts, USA, Phasex (30 employees, annual sales between 5 and 12 million euros over the last five years) was founded in 1981. A pioneer in supercritical CO2 extraction - a process that uses CO2 instead of traditional solvents such as hexane, butane or ethanol, to extract aromatic or functional compounds - it offers innovative, environmentally-friendly solutions for natural products, biopharmaceuticals and polymers.

The aim of this acquisition is to accelerate Robertet's growth by strengthening its production capacities and extending its CO2 extraction offer to the company's North American customers. The Grasse-based group also intends to develop new ranges of natural ingredients, for both flavors and fragrances, notably by taking advantage of North and South American biomass. It will also be able to reduce time-to-market thanks to the synergies developed between the two companies.

"The acquisition of Phasex represents a major step forward for us. Robertet becomes the first company in the Fragrances & Flavors sector to invest in CO2 extraction in North America, focusing on high value-added extracts for both the aromatic and nutra-cosmetic industries. By integrating Phasex's expertise, we are consolidating our leading position in natural ingredients, while developing more sustainable, high-performance solutions for our customers. This operation strengthens our industrial base in North America, one of the main levers for achieving our objective of one billion euros in global sales by 2030."said Jérôme Bruhat, CEO of Robertet.

Robertet has been established in North America since 1993, where the Group generated sales of 264 million euros in 2023, or 35 % of its total sales.

Bormioli Luigi equips itself with a hybrid oven

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The editorial staff

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7 November 2024

Italian glassmaker Bormioli Luigi has set itself the target of reducing its CO2 emissions by 50 % by 2030. To achieve this, the company is investing in the Vitrum project, supported by the European Commission as part of the Innovation Fund, a funding scheme designed to promote innovative industrial technologies that contribute to decarbonization.

The Vitrum project (for Virtuous Innovative TRansformation of highqUality container glass Manufacturingan innovative and virtuous transformation in the manufacture of high-quality glass packaging) involves the deployment of a hybrid furnace fuelled by a mix of methane and electricity, combined with advanced PCR, digitized control systems and artificial intelligence-assisted process optimization.

A significant reduction in carbon footprint is expected. The hybridization process alone will generate 80 %. The use of recycled glass combined with an optimized channel management system will contribute the remainder. The savings will be around 30 % in gas consumption and 14 % in CO2 compared with a conventional gas furnace.

With this innovation, Bormioli Luigi anticipates a reduction of 25,500 tonnes of CO2 equivalent over the first ten years of operation. Located at its Abbiategrasso site, near Milan, the furnace will be commissioned by January 2025.

2024 has been a productive year for Bormioli Luigi. Well ahead of the game in electric fusion (60 % of production in the Beauty division), the group is multiplying projects focused on reducing its carbon footprint, and thus anticipating the regulatory framework. The Vitrum project has been validated and co-financed by the European Commission's Innovation Fund, and is the only Italian project to benefit from such support. According to the company, only 15 % of glass packaging plants in Europe use electric melting.

Two new LipoTrue products presented at in-cosmetics Asia 2024

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The editorial staff

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6 November 2024

At in-cosmetics Asia 2024, held in Bangkok, Thailand, from November 5 to 7, 2024, Spanish company LipoTrue presents Lightmony, a botanical ingredient for a glow effect, and Deepstrine, a marine ferment for stretch marks.

Lightmony is inspired by the Korean "glass skin" trend. It is a powerful combination of botanical extracts of pomegranate and lemon. "This ingredient reduces melanin synthesis and balances the eumelanin/pheomelanin ratio. This ingredient reduces melanin synthesis and balances the eumelanin/pheomelanin ratio, reducing the amount of pheomelanin, which acts as a photosensitizing and prooxidant pigment.says LipoTrue. What's more, it minimizes DNA damaged by oxidative stress, helping to prevent premature skin aging."

This innovative active ingredient not only reduces the appearance of dark spots and promotes even skin tone, it also smoothes skin by providing gentle, instant exfoliation. It also improves skin texture, reducing roughness and wrinkles, guaranteeing visible and rapid results, according to LipoTrue.

Like the art of Kintsugi, where broken pottery is mended with gold to enhance its beauty, Deepstrine works to repair stretch marks in depth, restoring the skin's resilience and natural beauty. This active ingredient is a marine ferment derived from a micro-organism found in the deep cold waters of the North Atlantic Ocean. The idea: to treat stretch marks by helping to restore the structural integrity of the dermis and dermal-epidermal cohesion. "Deepstrine soothes inflammation and smoothes and fades stretch marks while improving hydration and restoring its natural beauty. This active ingredient offers an in-depth solution to strengthen and restore the skin's elasticity, restoring its resilience and healthy appearance."emphasizes LipoTrue.

Pure Trade was originally YSL Beauté's Advent calendar.

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The editorial staff

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6 November 2024

site-industries-cosmetiques Luxurious advent calendar in gold and white design, this stunning piece features numbered doors from 1 to 24. Below, discover a range of make-up and fragrance treasures, including lipsticks, perfumes and YSL Beauté skincare gems.

Pure Trade designs high-end primary and secondary packaging for luxury cosmetics and perfume brands.

Designed by Pure Trade, the limited edition YSL Beauté Season 2024 Advent Calendar, a luxurious two-door box that maximizes the decorative surface while optimizing interior space, is made from 100 % FSC cardboard and paper, including the closure system.

The iconic gold fishnet pattern is obtained by cold stamping, combined with deep embossing on customized FSC paper. This process ensures the alignment, precision and quality of the motif. It is combined with delicate two-tone gold petals in relief. Inspired by the Edelweiss flower, the central opening plate is offset printed and embossed, without PET lamination.

The 24 removable rigid drawers hold iconic YSL beauty products, designed to ensure continuity of decor between them and the dividers.

VividEYE™

By

Mibelle Group

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5 November 2024

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman with long brown hair and green eyes poses pensively against a colorful background of automobile drafts. She touches her face with one hand, revealing pink lips and pale skin, while the lighting accentuates her features.

Dark circles and undereye bags affect both physical appearance and emotional wellbeing, often signaling fatigue or premature aging. Dark circles are primarily caused by blood accumulation due to increased vascular permeability, and melanin deposition, which intensifies with age as skin thins and discolorations are more visible. Undereye bags result from weakening of the delicate tissue in the eye area and a dysfunctional lymphatic system causing fluid accumulation, leading to a puffy appearance.

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed VividEYE™ - a holistic solution for various undereye concerns. Based on organic apple mint leaves, VividEYE™ was shown to strengthen the vascular network by reducing blood vessel leakage and increasing lymphatic vessel formation for improved fluid drainage. In addition, VividEYE™ works effectively on skin cells to not only reduce melanin production, but also strengthen the skin barrier and prevent skin thinning. In clinical studies, VividEYE™ reduced eye bag volume as well as the appearance of dark eye circles.

Experience the transformative power of VividEYE™, your ultimate solution for undereye concerns, and unlock the secret to a more youthful, radiant appearance!

site-industries-cosmetics Close-up of a spearmint leaf with visible texture and serrated edges, animated by VividEYE™. The focus is on the central leaf, with other leaves artistically blurred in the background.

Benefits of VividEYE™:

- Visibly increases luminance in the eye contour
- Reduces eye bag volume
- Decreases leakiness of blood vessels
- Stimulates lymphatic vessel formation
- Inhibits melanin formation

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Passionflower to regulate acne

Evonik joins forces with Kolmar to innovate on the Chinese beauty market

Rissmann: light reflections on recyclable packaging

Lessonia wins Crisalide Industrie award for its environmental commitment

Avon awards supplier prize to Aptar Beauty

Robertet announces the acquisition of Phasex

Bormioli Luigi equips itself with a hybrid oven

Two new LipoTrue products presented at in-cosmetics Asia 2024

Pure Trade was originally YSL Beauté's Advent calendar.

VividEYE™

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Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery