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Naturex's Open Innovation program celebrates its first anniversary

Logo - Product design

Sharing knowledge and solving challenges through the application of groundbreaking technologies have always been at the heart of Naturex's business. Launched in March 2016, the Ingenium program, which aims to encourage technological advances and the introduction of new products through collaboration with external partners, has been a great success this year. Ingenium is well placed to make a positive contribution to Naturex's progress, helping the group to achieve its Bright2020 strategic objectives.

Eight successful collaborations over the year
During 2016, Naturex collaborated with a number of international partners. These cooperations include, among others, a licensing agreement with the Barry Callebaut group that enabled the launch of Cocoactiv', a cocoa extract with a high flavanol content, and with Poland-based Adamed, which led to the market introduction of Aronox®, an aronia extract targeting cardiovascular health. Other companies such as Mazza Innovation, FP Innovation, EPC Natural Products, In-Vitro Plant-tech and Green2Chem have also collaborated with Naturex to develop responsible and innovative natural solutions. The latest transaction involves the acquisition of certain assets from French company Dialpha SAS, including patents, trademarks and clinical studies on three health ingredients. These ingredients, derived from cashew nuts, cinnamon and chicory, are specifically designed to help regulate blood sugar levels and manage weight. The group intends to study the potential of these ingredients, and their synergistic effect in combination with other ingredients in the Naturex portfolio.

Specific avenues for Open Innovation in 2017
"The past year has been a very productive one in terms of Open Innovation at Naturex," explains Doug Klaiber, responsible for the global roll-out of the Ingenium program. "We're delighted with the number of interesting opportunities we've received. We currently have dozens of opportunities in the pipeline, and we're identifying new ones every day. The challenge now is to focus on the most significant ones.

To this end, Naturex has defined four main areas of potential collaboration:
- Natural colors (especially blue, green and red);
- Innovative natural food preservation solutions;
- Natural phytoactive ingredients for health and cosmetic purposes
- Technologies or enriched ingredients of natural origin for nutrition (vitamins and minerals).
Klaiber adds: "We see Ingenium as a flexible tool that will help us achieve our Bright 2020 objectives.  Naturex is pleased and proud to share its botanical expertise with partners determined to implement innovative approaches."

Cosmetics exports pass the €12 billion mark

Coiffure - Hair

France's cosmetics exports go from strength to strength for the 1era 12 billion mark in 2016, up +2% on 2015.
The balance of trade surplus in the cosmetics sector stands at €9.2 billion, putting cosmetics in second place after the aeronautics sector.
"French cosmetics continue to expand internationally, combining the strengths of a high-quality image with those of innovation". says Patrick O'Quin, President of the Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA).

 Growth in North America and Asia offsets European slowdown

Germany, the UK, Spain and Italy all remain in the top 5 of countries to which France exports the most, even if the amount of exports is tending to slow down in these 4 countries.
The slowdown in Europe was largely offset by sustained growth in North America. Exports are up to the United States (+8.5%), Canada (+4.5%) and Mexico (+4%).
The Asia zone as a whole grew by almost 10% in 2016, with increases to China (+15%), Singapore (+13%), South Korea (+18%) and Japan (+4%).
Indeed, while Asia had a more difficult year in 2015, 2016 saw a real recovery across the zone. Growth remains strong in China, despite regulations that are ill-suited to the market's constant innovations.
Asia now accounts for 17% of cosmetics exports.

Instability in other geographic zones

Exports to Latin America (-7.2%), non-EU European countries (-3.5%) and the Middle East (-5.9%), on the other hand, are down sharply.
European countries outside the European Union have been experiencing a decline in exports for several years. The rouble is an unstable currency, and this is having a major impact on our exports to Russia (-13%).
Declines in the Middle East (Saudi Arabia (-18%), United Arab Emirates (-5.8%)) are linked to rapidly changing and increasingly complex regulations, as well as to an economy in transition due to falling oil prices. The purchasing power of Emiratis and Saudis is falling, with major consequences for their consumption of luxury goods.
Exports to North Africa were down by 3.6%, with Egypt the main cause of this decline, with exports down by -27%, again due to the country's very difficult economic situation.

Drivers and new gas pedals of French exports

Skincare and fragrances account for ¾ of French cosmetics exports (43.4% for skincare and 31.3% for fragrances).
"High-end brands are still popular worldwide, and drugstore brands are accelerating their penetration". emphasizes Virginie d'Enfert, FEBEA Director of Economic, Environmental and International Affairs.
Finally, the French cosmetics industry is distinguished by new transformation characteristics which, in addition to product quality, may explain its success. An increased focus on well-being, innovative distribution methods, and investment in science and technology are changing the landscape.
The sector's players are committed to creating personal and collective well-being, taking care of themselves and the environment. They are building new Internet distribution strategies and developing new physical outlets, such as their own boutiques. And companies are deploying the personalized, connected and technological cosmetics market, ushering in a new era. adds Patrick O'Quin, Chairman of the FEBEA.

 

Seppic presents Subligana, an anti-blemish active ingredient

Skin - Skin care

Seppic launches Subligana, a new active ingredient against blemishes and pimples, for a zero-defect effect linked to oxidative stress, an active ingredient created by Serdex, a Seppic subsidiary since January 2017.

Acne affects almost 80% of the population at some point in their lives( 1) . New studies show that increased oxidative stress at both systemic and cutaneous levels is involved( 2) .
Subligana is a titrated extract of Harungana madagascariensis from central and eastern Madagascar. By acting as a repellent and physical barrier, Harungana madagascariensis is able to protect primary forests from external aggression and restore degraded environments. Botanists call it the "Protector of the forest". Traditionally, leaf decoctions are used for asthma and skin problems, and leaf juice is used as a healing agent.
This new active ingredient is designed for acne-prone skin with imperfections. A use test on teenagers with acne-prone skin showed a significant reduction in the number of whiteheads versus placebo after 28 days. Subligana's mode of action combines a soothing effect (inhibition of lipase, regulation of IL-10 & IL-12), an antioxidant effect (protection against lipid peroxidation) and an effect against Propionibacterium acnes .
Harungana madagascariensis leaves are collected according to good collection practices in the highlands of Madagascar to ensure a reproducible phytochemical composition. Serdex has set up a sustainable and ethical supply chain committed to the fair and ethical sharing of benefits in accordance with the Nagoya Protocol.

Subligana is listed on IECIC (China) and complies with Cosmos.

Virginie Anchartéchahar , R&D Manager at Serdex confirms: "Based on scientific studies, we have developed an innovative mode of action, both soothing and anti-oxidant, for acne-prone skin. "

References
1: Questions and Answers About Acne. National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases, 2001, Jan 2006 [consulted in july 2016]. Available on: https://www.niams.nih.gov/Health_Info/Acne /
2: Bowe et al. Clinical implications of lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris old wine in new bottles, Lipids in Health and Disease 2010.

Metrology & Monitoring Solutions Group (JRI) acquires CIET and focuses on cosmetics

Cosmetic industry - Serdex

After the acquisition in 2015 of JRI, a historical manufacturer of monitoring solutions for temperature and other physical parameters, the Metrology & Monitoring Solutions group continues its development plan and announces the acquisition of CIET, a company known for its services, particularly in qualification and validation of equipment, for the life science industryThe synergies between the two companies will enable the group to offer a range of products and services that specifically meet the needs of the pharmaceutical, biotechnology and cosmetics industry and their subcontractors.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry is a very demanding environment for its service providers in terms of quality, skills, means and methods. CIET has been providing its skills to this industry for nearly 15 years in order to guarantee the compliance of their equipment and processes with GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) or c-GMP.

Equipped with equipment that complies with FDA 21 CFR part 11 certification, its highly qualified teams carry out the qualification of climatic and thermostatic chambers, autoclaves, sterilization processes (SIP, sanitization), cryoTs and cryopreservers, and also ensure the qualification of regulated warehouses according to GMP. CIET also offers on-site metrological services and has an in-house metrology laboratory for monitoring equipment and drift. In addition, it provides consulting services (optimization of test protocols, data processing, drafting of audit procedures, etc.).

The monitoring of temperature, hygrometry and pressure in laboratories (quality control, research, etc.), in production areas or during logistics phases, requires high reliability and real expertise. JRI, with its monitoring solutions, has been a reference company since 1845 in the development of innovative solutions for metrological quality.

Synergy between CIET and JRI companies at the heart of the M&MS Group strategy

This merger is the result of a long collaboration between the two companies, whose objective is to cover the entire value chain: consulting-engineering, qualification services, monitoring and alert solutions, and metrology services, while maintaining the efficiency of each entity. JRI's long-standing skills in measurement monitoring and Cofrac temperature metrology, combined with CIET's expertise in qualification and validation, now make it possible to offer specific services for the Life Sciences Industry.

Sundy Morandat, CIET's General Manager, alongside the M&MS Group's management team adds: " CIET has always worked with integrity and transparency to offer a personalized service to its customers. Through this merger, we are pursuing our ambition to become a major national player in the provision of ultra-specific services to the pharmaceutical industry while consolidating our know-how and maintaining our quality standards. ".

The customizable and convertible shopping bag from Procos

Cosmetic industry - Bag

Procos, manufacturer of high-end packaging for the luxury markets, is constantly innovating in order to offer new solutions to its customers or to position itself on new markets. It is in this spirit that Procos presents the "convertible" shopping bag.
The "convertible" shopping bag was born from a meeting between an Italian designer, Giorgio Fabbi and Leander Kritikos, President of Procos. Faithful to Procos' innovative concepts, this bag has been imagined to personalize traditional paper shopping bags.
The paper bag can be customized with interchangeable sheets of paper that can be slipped around the bag. Logos, visuals, drawings, messages... transform the packaging and give it a unique style.
This customizable sheet meets the differentiation needs of brands wishing to produce paper shopping bags for promotional communications (product launches, press launches, seasonal promotions, Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, Christmas...).
A ribbon closure keeps the sheet in place and creates the gift effect.

 

Sederma launched Matrixyl Morphomics at in-cosmetics London

Ride - Palmitoyl-4 Pentapeptide

In the continuity of the Matrixyl inside range, Matrixyl Morphomics is a new anti-aging Matrikine. It benefits from Sederma's latest technologies and expertise in peptide research and objectification techniques.
Sederma's R&D teams designed this new lipopeptide based on the various types of collagen cross-linking in human body tissues. Matrixyl Morphomics provides unprecedented improvements in dermal morphology by acting on the longevity of the cell nucleus and restoring the connections between the cell nucleus and the extracellular matrix. Revealed through technological advances in youth proteomics, this unique mechanism of action results in a visible and significant reduction in vertical wrinkles. After only 6 weeks, nasolabial folds, marionette lines and frown lines are visibly reduced, giving the face a more cheerful expression.

The Gattefossé Foundation promotes the use of essential oils in health care in Madagascar

Cosmetics industry - Essential oils

As part of its mission to promote the use of essential oils in healthcare, the Gattefossé Foundation is awarding a grant to the Madagascan association AROVA (Aromatherapists of Vakinankaratra), which brings together doctors trained in aromatherapy.

This 5,000 euro grant is intended to finance training medical staff in Madagascan essential oils and paramedical services on the island. Eighty therapists were trained in 2013, 2014 and 2015 with the agreement of the Traditional Medicine Department of the Madagascan Ministry of Health, and this grant will enable us to train around a hundred more.

In agreement with the Madagascan Ministry of Health, AROVA provides training in the use of local essential oils, so that as many people as possible can benefit from their use in the island's health facilities (dispensaries, primary health care centers). The association also supplies oil blends to therapists trained in their use in health centers.
Training courses take the form of practical workshops in small groups. They help improve medical practices through exchanges on case studies, while presenting the alternatives or complementarities of essential oils with conventional medicine (e.g. in infectiology). These practices take into account the cost of treatment and the patient's quality of life.

The essential oils used by AROVA are supplied at wholesale prices by the NGO "Coeur de Forêt", which is involved in reforestation in Madagascar (100,000 trees planted from 2006 to 2014) and supports projects benefiting local populations.
Malagasy caregivers need training in the use of local essential oils. at the heart of public health, the social economy and sustainable development. Madagascar produces more than 30 different essential oils, but this national wealth is still poorly organized, and all production is exported to foreign countries, with little or no benefit to the health of the Madagascans themselves, or to the country's family economy.
In addition, previous studies published in international journals have demonstrated that it is possible to treat effectively - and at low cost - a large number of common pathologies in the field of respiratory and dermatological diseases, and in general all types of infection, thus opening up the prospect of using oils produced in Madagascar for the benefit of the population, and particularly in dispensaries frequented by the most destitute.
Thus, the availability of oils, their low cost and their effectiveness are conducive to the emergence of a strong aromatherapy movement and demand from the island's doctors and healthcare professionals is growing. The Malagasy Ministry of Health recently expressed its support for the extension of phyto-aromatherapy on the island, encouraging the development of training courses.

 

We offer you our special edition dedicated to in-cosmetics Global

tea - Cosmetics industry

The magazine Industries Cosmétiques has published its first special issue dedicated to the show in-cosmetics Global in London.
If you're looking for the latest in ingredients, don't delay in reading this special issue.

We're offering it to you in its digital version! To get it, simply click on this link

 

Bio cellulose: Lessonia's commitment to quality

Coconut oil - Coconut

Fabric masks are emerging as the new trendy product in the cosmetics industry. Unavoidable in Asia, democratized in Europe and the United States by Sephora, L'Oréal, Dr Jart+ or Estée Lauder, they are seducing more and more consumers every day.
More and more brands are now turning to bio cellulose to manufacture their masks: a material derived from biotechnology, but which remains a living material, difficult to control and which has already given rise to a few scandals concerning these manufacturing methods. In particular, problems of mould, due to the non-respect of hygiene and packaging rules.
At the forefront of the mask market in Europe and anxious to offer the best quality to its customers, Lessonia has audited the main manufacturers of bio cellulose on the market. This, with the constant objective of controlling the entire production chain.

Result of the audit:
Among the many manufacturers of bio cellulose masks in Malaysia, Vietnam or Indonesia, it is clear that not all are able to meet the quality, hygiene and traceability requirements of the cosmetic industry. Bio-cellulose is sometimes produced in a "home-made" way, which could unsurprisingly explain the causes of mold found in some masks. Fortunately, others are doing well by displaying impeccable quality and manufacturing conditions.
Lessonia has contracted with 2 of these manufacturers, including the supplier of the biggest Korean cosmetic brands, and can commit to the quality of its products.
The company offers 2 types of bio cellulose for the manufacture of face masks:
- Bio cellulose wet: treatment without preservatives or gamma rays.
- Bio dry cellulose: brings the maximum security and allows to impregnate more actives.

What is bio cellulose: a natural and biodegradable 100% material, made of ultrafine cellulose fibers, produced by microorganisms during the fermentation of the coconut juice from which it is produced.

 

Seppic awarded for Emogreen by the NYSCC

Cell - Cosmetics industry

Seppic won the Most Sustainable Ingredient Award from the New York Society of Cosmetics Chemists at "The Future of Sustainability" symposium for Emogreen on February 15, 2017.

Emogreen is a range of emollients offering an alternative to silicone oils. Plant-based and easily biodegradable, the range offers a unique sensorial experience. Thanks to their inert chemical structure, Emogreen can be used in all kinds of applications, from skin and hair care to make-up, suncare and hygiene products. These oils can be formulated under extreme conditions, for example in products rich in active ingredients, whatever the pH. Compatible with all types of oils, Emogreen offers easy formulation and a unique texture.

In addition to being easily biodegradable, the range is 100% biosourced. The palm oil on which Emogreen's starting biomass is based is covered by a Mass Balance certificate (BVC-RSPO-1-1972708497).

Emogreen is the solution that meets consumer expectations for more natural, environmentally-friendly products. Produced by Total Special Fluids using a patented distillation and purification process and marketed by Seppic, this range meets the highest purity standards.

Olivier Peyrot, Beauty Care Sales Manager North America said: "This new generation of sustainable emollients demonstrates our commitment to providing our customers with ingredients with considerable consumer and environmental benefits. These emollients can also be used to replace volatile silicone oils or mineral oils."

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