At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Gattefossé unveiled a new lipophilic active ingredient: Eyeglorius, a certified organic multi-purpose solution capable of simultaneously treating signs of fatigue and opening up a palette of possibilities for skincare and make-up formulas.  

"In response to the skinification of make-up, Gattefossé wanted to offer brands a multifunctional solution. Drawing on our multiple areas of expertise, we have developed Eyeglorius, a unique lipophilic active ingredient that perfectly matches the expectations of formulators and consumers alike."explains Laurie Canel, Active Ingredients Product Manager at Gattefossé.

Selective extraction of lipophilic metabolites 

Consumer expectations: corrective make-up solutions infused with active ingredients. Dark circles and puffiness are difficult to treat: dysfunctional microcirculation, excessive vascular permeability, oxidation and inflammation are all responsible for the appearance of signs of fatigue. 

Gattefossé's research team has sought to address this problem by capturing suitable molecules in the plant world.

Triterpenic acids (mainly ursolic, maslinic and oleanolic acids) have recognized effects on skin microcirculation, reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability and reinforcing endothelial barrier function. They also offer interesting potential for degrading the red pigment in dark circles.   

Gattefossé has turned its attention to sea buckthorn leaves, renowned for their remarkable phytochemical richness, particularly in triterpene compounds. A supply chain via a Canadian family orchard ensures the traceability and high organic quality of the raw material. 

In an upcycling initiative, in September Gattefossé recovers unused leaves from sea buckthorn branches, initially hand-harvested for their berries, which are then transformed into juices, sorbets or jams.

Based on eco-design principles, the process developed optimizes triterpene acid content while ensuring quality, safety and energy efficiency, in line with the company's CSR commitments.   

Thomas Rinaldi, R&D engineer in plant chemistry for Gattefossé, sums up this phase of the research: "Using bio and chemoguidance, we evaluated different solvents, focusing on extraction performance, biological activity, environmental footprint and reproducibility. Our aim was to achieve an energy-efficient process without compromising efficiency. Supercritical CO2 has a unique and marked affinity for the extraction of apolar compounds, as well as a controlled environmental impact. This solvent quickly became our first choice.

After extraction, the plant material is solubilized in an oily compound of plant origin, guaranteeing the lipophilicity, stability and formulability of the active ingredient. 

A versatile active solution

Gattefossé's skin biology team has set up a comprehensive study program to cover the pathophysiology of dark circles and puffiness, working on biopsy-derived endothelial cells. 

"Introducing endothelial cells into our laboratory was a real challenge on this project. They were a new cell type for us. We had to learn everything about them: evaluate culture media and seeding densities, control their proliferation capacities, establish test kinetics... Moreover, our cells are primary cells extracted from biopsies, not cell lines: they have to be handled with great care, but are also closer to physiological reality."says Chloé Lorion, R&D skin biology engineer at Gattefossé.  

Tested on a model of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells stressed by TNF-α, Eyeglorius leads to a significant reduction in vascular permeability, responsible for the appearance of dark circles and edema, according to Gattefossé. In addition, Eyeglorius promotes hemoglobin degradation and prevents its oxidation, key factors in under-eye hyperpigmentation.  

Two double-blind clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of Eyeglorius in reducing signs of fatigue. Tested against a placebo, the active ingredient achieved a significant reduction in puffiness volume, combined with a lighter color and reduced surface area for dark circles. "Gattefossé claims: "The eyes are beautified, sparkling, as if re-energized.

Thanks to its lipophilic composition, Eyeglorius is a versatile technical ally for formulators, with a wide range of possible applications in O/W and W/O formulas. Heat-resistant, it can also be incorporated into stick formulas or in one-pot processes. 

Eyeglorius is 100 % of natural origin according to ISO16128, certified organic, RSPO MB certified and NMPA China notified.

_{Photo : © Alina Kuptsova / Pixabay}

The winners of the in-Cosmetics Global Awards 2024 were revealed on Tuesday April 16. The 40-member jury selected 21 winners from 83 finalists.

Prize for the best ingredient in the innovation zone

Raw materials and ingredients manufacturer dsm-firmenich has won gold for the Innovation Zone's Best Ingredient Award in the Active Ingredients category for its Eterwell Youth product, a senolytic active made from an extract of Epilobium Fleischeri leaf/stem. The ingredient stimulates collagen, helps reverse skin damage induced by excess zombie cells, and helps slow premature skin aging, among other benefits.

Cosmetic ingredients supplier Mibelle Biochemistry won the Silver award for RejuveNAD, an active ingredient that optimizes cellular functions to revitalize skin by naturally stimulating the longevity molecule, NAD+. Codif TN received the Bronze award for its Regetaste, which reinforces the skin's barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smoother, softer, fresher and more radiant.

In the functional ingredients category, Evonik, a supplier of specialty chemicals, won first prize for its Ecohance Remo XP, a versatile, mild ingredient that acts as a rheology modifier, hydrophilic emollient and sensory enhancer. This functional ingredient can be used in a wide range of personal care applications.

Silver was won by Galaxy Surfactants Ltd, India's leading manufacturer of surfactants and specialty skincare ingredients, for its Galseer DermaGreen natural dermal cleanser.

Lubrizol Life Science, a leading partner in product design, development and manufacturing, won the bronze award for Carbopol Fusion S-20 polymer, its natural and inherently biodegradable rheology modifier for cleaning systems.

Green ingredient price

The 2024 Gold Award for Green Ingredient went to Boreal Bioproducts' SpruceSugar ingredient, a biodegradable agent that forms a protective film against grease, an anionic surfactant and a low-viscosity modifier.

Ashland won silver for its Perfectyl biofunctional, a high-tech chamomile extract, inspired by new aesthetic techniques, to clarify and smooth skin blemishes for all ethnic groups. LignoGuard(R) Aqua 20 from Lignovations, an ecological multifunctional based on recycled lignin, won the bronze award.

Kenvue Trusted Science Award

The Kenvue Trusted Science Award recognizes innovative and effective modern ingredients that consumers can rely on for their daily skincare needs. 

Basf won the gold award for its Hydrasensyl Glucan Green, a bioferment that offers skin-smoothing and moisturizing benefits, both immediately and over time.

Tego Filmstar One MB from Evonik Industries won the silver award for its biosourced and biodegradable 100 % film-forming product. Immunight from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the bronze award for its ecologically processed oil-soluble lavandin extract, which helps stimulate skin recovery overnight.

Rising star" award

The Rising Star Award recognizes new talent and first- and second-year exhibitors at the show. Kaffe Bueno and Skinosive are the winners of this award. Kaffe Bueno is a Danish start-up specializing in the recycling of coffee by-products. Skinosive is a scientific dermo-cosmetic biotechnology company developing a technological platform for skin photoprotection.

Make-up bar and sensory bar prices

In the Make-Up Bar Award category, the gold prize went to the international manufacturer of pearlescent and metallic effect pigments, Eckart GmbH, for its Trend Colors Autumn & Winter 2025/26. Silver went to Imerys Talc Europe for its Matte lipstick ceremony, a lipstick enriched with ImerCare 400D (Inci : Diatomaceous earth), which gives lips a matte finish while retaining a creamy effect. Nikko Chemicals, a global supplier of ingredients for cosmetics, won the bronze award for Rei-Sei-Bi - Cold Process Beauty. 

In the Sensory Bar Award category, the gold medal went to ingredient distributor and manufacturer Microcaps AG, for its natural, ethanol-free perfume pearls. Univar Solutions, a global distributor of chemicals and ingredients, won silver for its Lavish Lavender Oil-free Massage Gel. Cosmetics manufacturer Technature was awarded bronze for its latest innovation, SkinSitu Caps, a small tablet that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it encounters water. 

Sustainable stand award

A new prize - the Sustainable Stand Award - recognized exhibitors who had actively implemented eco-conscious measures in the design and construction of their stands. 

Gold was awarded to Ravetllat Aromatics S.L., which took into account its sustainability credentials and measures, from waste reduction and recycling to material reuse, heritage, CO2 emissions and much more.

The in-Cosmetics Gobal trade show was held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024.

As an expert in micro-organisms, Lallemand is exhibiting for the first time at in-Cosmetics Global, which runs in Paris until April 18, alongside Evolva by Lallemand, a recently acquired Swiss biotechnology company. Together, they will be presenting their ingredients for topical products.

The Canadian group Lallemand, specialized in the development, production and marketing of yeasts, bacteria and specialty ingredients, makes its entry into the world of cosmetics official with the presence at in-Cosmetics Paris of its "Personal Care" business unit, supplier and partner to the cosmetics industries.

Biobased ingredients

Lallemand manufactures, produces and markets bacteria, yeasts and their derivatives. The company is developing a range of pre-, pro- and post-biotics for the skin microbiota. Three of its products will be highlighted at In-Cosmetics Paris:

- Lallbiome 200 (Lactobacillus Helveticus HA-122 inactivated), a post-biotic ingredient that promotes the effet anti-senescence of cells, contributing to healthy aging, 

- seven unique exopolysaccharides (EPS), including six sulfated EPS, derived from marine bacterial metabolites, designed to prevent the formation of pathogen biofilms (including in oral applications) and combat skin imperfections,

- Beauty Yeast Mask, a "second-skin" beauty mask whose film matrix consists mainly of micro-organisms with beta-glucan yeast fractions in particular. The result of a collaboration with Technature, this mask provides, according to its designers, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging properties to improve complexion radiance while reducing redness and imperfections.

The range from Evolva, a Swiss-based biotech company which joined Lallemand at the end of 2023 as part of an acquisition, complements the specialist's expertise in micro-organisms. Specialized in the research, development and marketing of ingredients of natural origin, it has developed and patented yeast fermentation processes to produce ingredients for cosmetics, nutraceuticals and other fields such as perfumery and flavors.

At In-Cosmetics Paris, the company unveils Juneo, a trans-resveratrol derived from a yeast metabolite (S.Cerevisiae) for an anti-aging effect, as well as Larally, L-Arabinose for balanced skin and microbiota.

"Our company already supplies numerous customers in the food, brewing, health, animal nutrition and pharmaceutical sectors. For cosmetics, our ingredients represent an incomparable biosourced raw material that meets consumers' ever-increasing expectations to use products that are as natural as possible, with limited impact on resources and the environment, and with visible efficacy. Microorganisms represent a new avenue of innovation for the cosmetics industry, particularly in the field of skin microbiota. We are delighted to present them at in-Cosmetics Paris. "says Angélique Barreau, Marketing and Development Director for Lallemand Cosmetics, a division of Lallemand Personal Care.

Among the many exhibitors at In cosmetics 2024, Cargill Beauty answers our questions. Two new products are presented. Of course, we're talking naturalness and artificial intelligence!

2024 is a special year for the French Herbarom Group, which celebrated its 30th anniversary on January 25. Founded in 1994, it has been working alongside its customers for 30 years to create unique and specific ingredients, capturing the very essence of nature and plants.

At the in-Cosmetics trade show, Herbarom Laboratoire, a company specializing in the production, sourcing and development of plant extracts and formulas, presents new ingredients from French and local sources, and from upcycling. These ingredients serve to simplify formulations and promote more natural, minimalist formulas.

Herbarom Laboratoire offers a wide range of botanical solutions in a variety of variants, providing cosmetics professionals with a broad choice in terms of range depth (concentration, preservation, origin, certification...). The company is continuing its in-depth work on committed ingredients with three new ingredients to take the 360° exploration of a botanical species even further: flowers, fruits, skin, seeds...

Fruit blossom water

Building on its local presence, the company has forged a strategic, local partnership with ChestNut, a company specializing in the recovery of raw materials from arboriculture, to source flowers.

Herbarom Laboratoire introduces two new ingredients: apple blossom water and apricot blossom water.

Chestnut hydroglycerine extract

Herbarom Laboratoire is working with another upcycling resource: chestnut pericarp, to produce a chestnut hydroglycerine extract. The chestnuts, used in the first stage to make marrons glacés, are sourced locally (Ardèche) and close to Herbarom's extraction site in the Drôme. This approach limits the use of new natural resources.

Formulation of application products

Herbarom Laboratoire also intends to demonstrate its ability to understand market and brand issues, and to translate them into concrete product applications, to help its customers plan their use of these ingredients.

The company has developed a hand cream based on apple tree ingredients (apple tree floral water 10% prf, apple skin distilled water 22.3% CBIO PrF, CBIO virgin apple seed oil).

Apples - rich in polyphenols and vitamin C - are renowned for their moisturizing and antioxidant properties, and for accelerating tissue regeneration.

Herbarom has also created a hair mask based on apricot ingredients (apricot floral water 10% PrF, virgin apricot oil ABIO - France, apricot HG 10% PrH - 03).

Rich in vitamins, apricots have antioxidant properties.

At in-Cosmetics, Herboraom also presented a face cream based on Chestnut Ingredient (HG châtaigne drêche 5% CBIO PrF - Ardèche).

Chestnuts are rich in polyphenols, flavonoids and tannic acids, giving them antioxidant, revitalizing, anti-aging and anti-acne properties.

A tailor-made accompaniment

Herbarom supports its customers from project conception through to industrial implementation. Relying on its in-house experts, the company also offers tailor-made services throughout the value chain to support its customers' ingredient development projects.

Thanks to its expertise in food supplements, the group also supports its customers with nutricosmetics solutions.

The nutricosmetics dimension and in & out associations are key issues in the cosmetics sector. Herbarom is a true partner in these areas.

Givaudan Active Beauty recently launched Neuroglow, an active ingredient that mimics the beneficial properties of sunlight. The company is also the creator of Silk-iCare, a vegan silk for protect and repair the skin.

A new ingredient for radiance and good humor

Manufactured by green fractionation from Persicaria tinctoria sourced in Provence, Neuroglow is an active ingredient designed to safely reproduce all the positive effects of the sun. 

In addition to stimulating vitamin D production, sunlight is recognized for its positive impact on mood and energy, while contributing to a healthy appearance thanks to its desirable tanning effects.¹. In a world where contemporary lifestyles lead us to spend more time indoors, Neuroglow provides an answer to a growing demand for the positive effects associated with sun exposure. Research shows that 80 % of American Generation Z consumers are looking for cosmetics that positively influence their mood.².

Neuroglow mimics the beneficial properties of sunlight, stimulating melanin production (+126 %) and promoting the skin's release of feel-good molecules such as beta-endorphin (+ 43%), vitamin D (+ 345%) and oxytocin (+ 229%). By stimulating melanin production, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, enabling a faster, healthier, more natural and better protected tan. It also improves general well-being and energy levels, while preventing potential inflammatory damage caused by the sun.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, the results of the first clinical trial demonstrated a remarkable change in phototype in 76 % of participants in just seven days, moving from phototype II to phototype III, and of these, 40 % even moved to a darker phototype IV, compared with 0 % in the placebo group. In a second clinical trial involving volunteers experiencing seasonal mood changes due to lack of sunlight, Neuroglow reduced fatigue, increased feelings of affection and improved the "winter blues", with over 80 % of volunteers reporting a positive score.

"Our Green Fractionation R&D scientists have identified and optimized a plant-derived active ingredient offering an unprecedented solution to mimic all the positive effects of sunlight. Of 100% natural origin and Cosmos-compliant, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, promotes a healthier tanning process and even protects the skin from the potential side effects of overexposure. The result? A healthy glow and enhanced well-being all year round, even when combined with SPF, highlighting the benefits of the sun."says Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, R&D Green Fractionation Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.

Biomimetic silk

Thanks to cutting-edge biotechnologies, Givaudan Active Beauty has also developed an optimized sequence of silk proteins, produced by fermentation, to create Silk-iCare - a pure biomimetic silk with remarkable film-forming properties, according to its creators.

Silk-iCare forms an invisible yet robust film on the skin, providing immediate benefits in terms of protection and recovery. On application, it creates a uniform 3D fibrillar network on the skin's surface, guaranteeing performance without residue or cracking on drying. Its unique hydrogel structure, derived from natural silk, offers a thixotropic characteristic, enabling smoother application and a breathable, non-sticky finish.

Givaudan Active Beauty claims that Silk-iCare's effectiveness is immediate, offering anti-pollution and skin recovery benefits. Thanks to its physical mode of action, Silk-iCare forms a protective barrier that eliminates over 96 % of pollution particles.

The company reports that clinical studies have demonstrated a significant seven-fold reduction in pore size, as early as 15 minutes after application. Over time, Silk-iCare's restorative properties trigger a twofold reduction in inflammatory flare-ups, perfecting the skin.

"We are delighted to introduce Silk-iCare, the pioneering vegan silk veil designed to protect and repair skin.comments Romain Reynaud, Research & Development Manager. With its biomimetic structure, Silk-iCare is a remarkable skin perfector, thanks to its exceptional film-forming properties. Acting like an invisible bandage, Silk-iCare offers all-in-one anti-pollution, rapid repair and make-up-fixing benefits. "

Givaudan Active Beauty presents its new ingredients and associated marketing concepts (S3D® BlissFul Vibes and S3D Wonder Veil) at In-Cosmetics Global, which runs in Paris until April 18. Its digital platform uxbeauty.givaudan.com, dedicated to cosmetic ingredients, also provides further information.

_{1. Mead N. Environ Health Perspect, 2008 May; 116(5):A197)}

_{2. Givaudan Active Beauty CMI study}

French company Imerys, a global supplier of specialty mineral solutions for industry, is presenting its portfolio of sustainable solutions for cosmetics formulators at in-Cosmetics Global (Paris, April 16-18, 2024), including two new products.

Consumers now want to buy personal care products formulated with natural and organic ingredients from sources that are both transparent and sustainable. What's more, consumers and formulators alike are looking to simplify their beauty routines and products through a "less is more" approach that favors simple all-in-one solutions containing fewer - and less controversial - ingredients that, while effective, also perform multiple functions.

At in-Cosmetics Global, Imerys is exhibiting its range of mineral solutions derived from ground calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, mica, perlite and talc, designed to help cosmetics formulators meet the evolving needs of the personal care industry and the preferences of today's consumers. 

New products

New products unveiled in Paris include make-up and hand-wash products.

Cosmos-certified, ImerCare 400D is a new mattifying agent for lipsticks, designed as a natural 100 % alternative to synthetic silica. Based on microporous diatomaceous earth, ImerCare 400D demonstrates superior absorption according to Imerys, offering a natural mattifying effect in lipsticks, as well as good sensory properties and thermal stability.

ImerCare SandyScrub provides gentle exfoliation in hand soaps used in industrial environments such as garages and workshops. ImerCare SandyScrub, volcanic rock for industrial hand scrubs, is produced from natural volcanic rock, and is backed by a secure supply chain and microbiological compliance. 

Pioneer solutions

Imerys is also presenting "Pioneer" products for cosmetic applications at in-Cosmetics. Gentle on the skin, they are made from ingredients of natural origin, durable and transparent.

● ImerCare Matte is a Cosmos-certified white kaolin solution for achieving a superior, nude matte effect in gels and creams, liquid foundations and pressed powders. ImerCare Matte kaolin is a natural 100 % alternative to synthetic mattifying agents such as nylon and polyethylene powders and polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA).

● Cosmos-certified, ImerCare 6M is a multifunctional technical mica solution for providing superior cohesion as well as transparency and luminosity in pressed powders. ImerCare 6M comes from Imerys' Breton site in Ploemeur (France). The company, which owns the site, is able to guarantee the product's transparency and complete traceability within the EU, thus meeting the demand for responsible sourcing of ingredients.

● ImerCare 400D, a Cosmos-certified microporous diatomaceous earth, is a highly effective absorption agent in deodorants and antiperspirants. ImerCare 400D meets the growing demand for aluminum-salt-free deodorant formulations that both absorb sweat and control body odor while being gentle on the skin.

● ImerCare Blur is a patented, Cosmos-certified, calcium carbonate-based product of natural origin, specifically designed to confer both a mattifying and a soft focus effect in powders and anhydrous products. ImerCare Blur has been designed as a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients such as synthetic silica, nylon and PMMA used to mattify cosmetics.

● ImerCare P-Scrub is a technical perlite, derived from natural volcanic rocks, designed as an effective ecological alternative to the polymer microbeads used in face and body scrubs. The ImerCare P-Scrub range is available in a wide range of particle sizes, designed to provide just the right exfoliating effect in face, body and foot scrubs, and anti-dandruff shampoos. "This range is perfectly in line with market demand and regulatory requirements for plastic-free cosmetics.says Imerys.

Introduced in 2021, the Pioneer rating is an integral part of Imerys' internal SustainAgility Solutions Assessment (SSA) program, which is used to measure the social and environmental footprint of its products from birth to end of life. The SSA is based on a "robust and standardized Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) method that provides objective, reliable and specific data." It enables customers to make informed choices when selecting Imerys products. 

_{Photo: Annette / Pixabay}

At in-cosmetics Global 2024, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, Clariant is showcasing CycloRetin, a natural active ingredient for skin care. Present in the prince of ginseng (Pseudostellaria heterophylla) - a plant prized in Chinese medicine for its many benefits, from treating fatigue to boosting vitality - CycloRetin activates the benefits of retinol while being naturally gentle.

CycloRetin's heterophyllin B molecule is a cyclic peptide that boosts skin matrix production, improving collagen and reducing the signs of aging. With efficacy comparable to that of retinol and bakuchiol, CycloRetin promotes youthful-looking skin. Water-soluble and requiring minimal concentrations, the active ingredient is environmentally friendly. Two formulas containing this ingredient - Firming Mask and Mask Mist - will be presented at in-Cosmetics 2024.

"While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our laboratory, we discovered the exceptional potential of the prince of ginseng to restart the skin matrix production cycle. Highly effective, even in low concentrations, peptides play a crucial role in maintaining the appearance of youthful skin."explains Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins.