Phytessence Osmanthus is Croda Beauty's floral ingredient dedicated to geo-skincare. Derived from the Osmanthus flower, celebrated in Asia and popular in the perfumery sector, this ingredient is manufactured using a green, eco-designed process known as Eco-sound technology. Phytessence Osmanthus helps protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun's rays and soothes sunburn by reducing redness and the production of PGE2.

Protecting yourself from the sun

While sunlight can stimulate the body and provide a sense of well-being, excessive exposure to sunlight can have irreversible consequences for the skin. In this age of climate change, it is essential for consumers to seek optimum protection for their skin.

Phytessence Osmanthus is an extract of Osmanthus flower, Osmanthus Fragrans, in glycerine and water. An extract of natural origin at 99.4 % according to ISO16128, approved by Cosmos, quantified in verbascoside (syn. Acteoside).

Save water

Climate change also threatens the natural water cycle. According to the United Nations, two-thirds of the world's population will be living in water-stressed conditions by 2025. In addition, population growth, accelerating consumption and economic development are increasing global demand for water by 1 % per year, Croda Beauty points out. Water scarcity is not confined to developing countries. With heatwaves on every continent and declining water quality, consumers are sensitive to water quality and scarcity, seeking to understand whether the methods used to create products limit or recycle water.

When it comes to beauty, solid formats, oily serums and plant waters are now in demand.

Water is an essential ingredient in cosmetics. Historically, water has been used as a filler in products, and is cited as the first ingredient in a formula because it acts as a base.

The beauty industry is increasingly aware of the need to reduce its dependence on water. In particular, water-free products are now being offered, with their marketing motivated by the need to preserve this resource.

"Replacing water with skin-friendly alternatives derived from plants or minerals is a winning strategy to deliver superior consumer benefits."says Croda Beauty, creators of Heliami, a range of oily extracts obtained by infusion at 30°C in French organic sunflower oil with a high oleic acid content.

According to Croda Beauty, this sunflower oil with its high oleic acid content provides a more heat- and time-stable extract. Its unsaturated fatty acid composition is superior to both conventional sunflower oil and olive oil.

The entire range is certified organic by Cosmos and 100 % of natural origin according to ISO16128.

Five oily extracts have been developed in line with current market trends:

• Heliami Banana Flower EC, for tropical bohemian concepts,
• Heliami Cornflower EC, for a bucolic, locally sourced world,
• Heliami Ginseng EC, the adaptogenic plant for Ath-Beauty
• Heliami Green Tea EC, "the wellness ingredient for urban living",
• Heliami Sea Fennel EC, "the extremophile ingredient that blows an ocean breeze".

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Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading Swiss manufacturer of botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, won three awards in three categories at the 22nd BSB Innovation Awards in 2024, despite the quality of the other products entered in the competition.

In the "Cosmetics/Raw Materials/Actives" category, its recently launched product, BakuLipid, won 3rd prize in its category. BakuLipid is a blend of the plant-derived alternative retinol bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids to improve skin penetration.

PhytoSolve Astaxanthin, a preformed emulsion containing the powerful antioxidant astaxanthin and natural phospholipids, won 3rd prize in the "Cosmetics/Raw Materials/Functionals and Recipients" category. 

In addition, Lipoid Kosmetik's Immortelle Oil Pro extract, renowned for its skin-firming and rejuvenating properties, was awarded 2nd prize in the "Natural Products/Raw Material/Actives" category, with the international jury praising its "convincing efficacy results, which respond to an ongoing challenge in body care".

"Being among the winners of this year's BSB Innovation Awards, alongside other industry leaders, underlines our unwavering commitment to developing innovative natural ingredients, underpinned by sound scientific research, appealing concepts and in tune with prevailing cosmetic trends."says the company.

Active Concepts, an Italian company that creates cosmetic bioactives, points out that global warming, marked by record temperatures, directly affects the aging and quality of skin and hair. Cosmetic formulations use a variety of raw materials to protect these parts of the body, with polymers playing a key role. 

In response to the need to reduce petrochemical pollutants worldwide, the beauty industry is increasingly turning to environmentally-friendly, biodegradable solutions. Biobased materials are considered essential for sustainability, and advances in biotechnology offer new ways to improve their effectiveness. 

Among the solutions explored: upcycling, replacing traditional ingredients with sustainable alternatives derived from recycled food industry by-products, while maintaining high product performance standards.

Active Concepts was interested in reusing pineapple crown waste to extract cellulose, transforming this residue into a precursor for a new biopolymer. 

Pineapple generates around 3 billion tonnes of by-products per year, mainly from the crown leaves. Pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) is distinguished from other natural fibers by its high cellulose content, an important element for polymer reinforcement, biodegradable product additives, membrane reinforcement and the development of renewable biomaterials.

The Italian firm's expertise in biofermentation played a crucial role in the delicate elaboration of this active ingredient using a yeast-based cross-linking technology.

According to Active Concepts, AC Pina Colloida, the new biopolymer obtained by this process, improves the skin's protective barrier function, helping to retain moisture and prevent attacks from micro-pollution. By acting on the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, it could prevent the visible signs of ageing. In addition, AC Pina Colloida strengthens the structural integrity of hair by preventing the harmful effects of UV irradiation, resulting in healthier hair and demonstrating effective physical and sensory properties that improve overall skin coverage and product appearance.

The Edison Awards, named after American inventor Thomas Edison, recognize innovative products and entrepreneurs. 

For the second year running, Cargill has won three Edison Awards for innovations in the fields of intelligent transport, social and cultural impact, and skincare and beauty solutions.

In the field of care and beauty, Cargill received the Bronze award for its BotaniDesign 105 product, a plant-based substitute for petrolatum. This 100 % naturally-occurring, plant-based and easily biodegradable solution is, according to Cargill, highly moisturizing and can be included in a range of personal care products.

This innovation, like the other two award-winning products, demonstrates Cargill's ability to draw on more than a century of experience in the food industry to innovate across a wide range of challenges facing its customers and consumers.

All entries were reviewed by the Edison Awards steering committee and an executive jury. The jury was made up of over 2,000 senior executives and academics from the fields of product development, design, engineering, science, marketing and education, as well as past winners.