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Hyaluronic acid production rethought

PrimalHyal Givaudan Active Beauty

Givaudan Active Beauty has created PrimalHyal 50 Life: a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, "the most sustainable in the Givaudan portfolio". depending on the company.

The fruit of several years' research, PrimalHyal 50 Life was unveiled at the Cosmet'agora trade show in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024. Givaudan Active Beauty researchers have been studying the bio-fermentation process for over 30 years, with a bold ambition: to strengthen the sustainability criteria of the hyaluronic acid molecule, as well as those of its production. 

Located in Champagne, Givaudan Active Beauty's center of excellence draws on its knowledge of white biotechnology to manufacture active cosmetic ingredients, a method that involves the precise fermentation of micro-organisms, exploiting mainly local carbon sources such as wheat or beet sugar, thus adopting a circular economy model in the context of a bio-refinery.

Thus, by leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation, Givaudan Active Beauty's production methods are now more environmentally friendly, achieving an exceptional -91% reduction in environmental impact according to Givaudan Active Beauty. 

The company claims that PrimalHyal 50 Life includes significant improvements across various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a lifecycle analysis boasting -92 % greenhouse gas emissions, -95 % water acidification and eutrophication, -90 % non-renewable energy use and -75 % water consumption*.

"Thanks to the outstanding work of our strain engineering scientists, we have completely reinvented the method of producing low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. By directly obtaining the desired molecular weight during fermentation, we have considerably reduced our overall footprint. This is a major breakthrough for the beauty industry as a whole".says Romain Reynaud, Research and Development Director at Givaudan Active Beauty.

PrimalHyal 50 Life offers several skincare benefits according to Givaudan Active Beauty, including: deep skin penetration, up to 120 μm; stimulation of skin junction firmness; prevention of insensible water loss, to boost skin hydration for up to 72 hours after application; a reduction in skin roughness of -66% in one month; and perceptible benefits in terms of skin texture, firmness and hydration, noted by volunteers.

* Based on a cradle-to-gate LCA carried out in 2023 by an external firm on the basis of data supplied by Givaudan.

Geo-skincare to combat the effects of climate change

Osmanthus-Pixabay

It's a well-known fact: sunlight has the ability to stimulate the body and provide a feeling of well-being. But beware of too much sun! Excessive exposure to the sun's rays can have irreversible consequences for the skin. 

To protect your skin in the age of climate change, adopt intelligent routines based on highly specific formulas, adapted to external aggressions, is one possible way forward.

Climate, air pollution levels, altitude, humidity, sun exposure and other factors all lead to different skin needs depending on where you live. Geo-skincare is an innovative approach in this respect, recommending targeted treatments for each skin type, depending on the geographical and climatic context. 

Phytessence Osmanthus is Crodarom's floral ingredient dedicated to geo-skincare. Derived from the emblematic Osmanthus flower, celebrated in Asia and very trendy and popular in the perfumery sector, this ingredient is manufactured using a green, eco-designed process, Eco-sound technology. Phytessence Osmanthus helps protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun's rays and soothes sunburn by reducing redness and the production of PGE2.

Phytessence Osmanthus is an extract of Osmanthus flower, Osmanthus Fragrans, in glycerine and water. An extract of natural origin at 99.4 % according to ISO16128, approved by Cosmos, quantified in verbascoside (syn. Acteoside).

Possible applications include skin care creams, anti-stress serums, second-skin BB creams, sun protection, anti-mask care and heat protection hair care.

Basf: new ingredients for authentic, natural beauty

Basf Reflecting Beauty

On the occasion of the 16th edition of the Cosmet'Agora trade show held in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024, Basf Personnal Care unveiled Reflecting BeautyReflecting Beauty is a concept for rethinking cosmetics ingredients in terms of the balance between body, mind and environment. With Reflecting Beauty, the company aims to meet the expectations of consumers seeking authentic, more natural and more sustainable beauty. 

With Epispot, Basf targets blemish-prone skin, joining the "#NoFilter" trend for an authentic appearance. Addressing the root causes of an imbalance affecting lipids, microbiota and the skin's natural defense system, this new ingredient aims to reduce skin shine, improve the appearance of facial pores and promote a healthy complexion. Obtained by water extraction from the aerial parts ofEpilobium angustifoliuma plant responsibly sourced in France, this ingredient is suitable for a wide range of applications, from facial serums to cleansers and make-up formulations.

With the launch of Emulgade Verde 10 MS, Basf extends its polyglyceric fatty acid ester technology for natural formulations. According to the company, Emulgade Verde 10 MS is easily biodegradable and based on totally renewable raw materials. This Cosmos-approved ingredient contains no preservatives and is manufactured using an environmentally-friendly solvent-free process. " It is a robust, flexible emulsifier that offers good stability in O/W creams and lotions, and excellent compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients, including synthetic polymers and biopolymers.the company says. Emulgade Verde 10 MS is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic formulations, as it liquefies shear and facilitates distribution on the skin. Dermatological tests show that it is suitable for sensitive skin. In addition, this O/W emulsifier can be used for microbiome-friendly concepts. "

Basf also offers a sustainable alternative to cyclomethicone with Cetiol iSan. Approved by Cosmos and Natrue, of 100 % natural origin (according to ISO 16128) and readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301F criteria), Cetiol iSan is, according to Basf, a high-spreading, low-volatility product that feels light on the skin. The company thus indicates that it is suitable for a variety of applications, from skin care to make-up and sun care formulations, while offering good make-up removal efficacy. "The superior olfactory profile of this clear, colorless liquid makes it suitable for high-quality natural cosmetics with little or no fragrance," says the firm.

Photo taken from Basf's Linkedin page.

L'Oréal venture capital fund invests in longevity biotech company

Timeline_Products

Bold, L'Oréal's strategic venture capital fund, acquires a minority stake in Timeline, a Swiss biotechnology company specializing in longevity.

A spin-off from the École polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), Timeline was created in 2007 by Chris Rinsch (co-founder and President) and Patrick Aebischer (co-founder and Chairman), to develop innovative longevity solutions in the food, beauty and health sectors. 

Timeline has developed Mitopure, an exclusive molecule whose claimed property is to recycle and rejuvenate mitochondria, the energy powerhouses of cells that tend to malfunction with age. 

This technology is the fruit of over a decade of research, multiple landmark clinical studies and an extensive patent portfolio.

Bold's investment will enable Timeline to further develop its technology and expand its business, while paving the way for future collaboration with L'Oréal.

"Longevity means living longer in better health. L'Oréal has been working for over ten years to understand and anticipate this approach to beauty, said Barbara Lavernos, L'Oréal Group Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology. Longevity adds a new dimension to beauty by preventing, correcting and even reversing the aging cycle of skin, scalp and hair. We are delighted with our investment in Timeline, which should enable us to transpose the key characteristics of longevity to skin health and beauty."

"This strategic collaboration reflects the revolutionary multidimensional approach we have always believed is necessary to achieve significant progress in longevity and healthy life spans, said Patrick Aebischer, co-founder and Chairman of Timeline. I would like to thank L'Oréal for its commitment to longevity solutions driven by scientific excellence."

In total, Timeline raised 56 million Swiss francs ($66 million) in a financing round in which Nestlé also participated. "We have been investing in Timeline since 2019 and continue to be very impressed with the team and support the exponential potential that Mitopure technology represents for nutrition to help people age better, said Anna Mohl, CEO of Nestlé Health Science. We are delighted that L'Oréal is joining us as an investor and strategic partner to take this technology to new heights and extend its applications."

[podcast] Verescence and its 4R range at Paris Packaging Week

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman stands in front of a cosmetics display.

In this episode, Verescence's Bérangère Raguenet presents the glassmaker's offer at Paris Packaging Week in January 2024. Topics include weight reduction for Guerlain jars, PCR integration, reinforced glass and the Korean Moon jar...

Bormioli Luigi innovates with sputtering decoration

Life is Beautiful - Bormioli Luigi

The Italian glass group Bormioli Luigi has installed new sputtering equipment at its Parma plant. This surface treatment adds to the advantages of metallization a controlled metal deposit guaranteeing the recyclability of the glass.

Lancôme's La Vie est Belle l'Extrait bottle is a limited edition created by Bormioli Luigi using sputtering, a technology in which the Italian company has recently invested. "Thanks to sputtering, we were able to create a transparent metallic bottle that stands out for its mirror effect, its special hue and the gradient of the color, which creates a difference in opacity between the top and bottom of the bottle."explains Emanuela Fava, R&D Manager at Bormioli Luigi.

Sputtering involves applying the decoration in a vacuum, using a physical process that differs from metallization. Selected metals such as steel, gold, silver or copper are transformed under the effect of a gas and deposited on the surface of the bottle in the form of micro-fragments whose thickness can be controlled. A final external lacquering phase deposits a protective layer, offering the possibility of adding color and gradient effects.

"We have invested 2 million euros in a complete line dedicated to sputtering, encompassing the entire process. Sputtering brings flexibility, possible color effects and control over the thickness of metal deposits until a transparent version is obtained. This transparency is of interest not only for its aesthetic effect, but also to ensure that the final product can be recycled, as it makes the glass recognizable by optical sorting".stresses Emanuela Fava.

Sputtering makes it possible to combine aesthetic effects with recyclability. Bormioli Luigi has optimized this surface treatment technology, historically used for plastic packaging, while working on the raw material to achieve the expected levels of resistance and compatibility. The sputtering technique promises products the same brilliance and resistance to shocks, scratches and juices as those produced by vacuum metallization.

Yaël Zajac

Cosmogen launches a dedicated offering for pharmaceutical brands

COSMOGEN - PHARMA CARE RANGE

Cosmogen, a company renowned for its expertise in skincare and make-up application, will be exhibiting for the first time at the Pharmapack show in Paris, on January 24 and 25 2024. The aim is to present a line of patented packaging solutions dedicated to OTC pharmaceutical products (Over the Counter).

Offered under a new blue banner, "Cosmogen Pharma Care", this line of patented packaging meets four criteria: safety, hygiene, expertise in application efficacy, and sustainable development. The products are designed to best support the formula in its function of relief, repair and well-being.

"The OTC product offering is increasingly competitive, and pharmaceutical industry brands are looking for differentiating solutions.says Maud Lelièvre, Cosmogen's Marketing & Communications Director. Some of them have clearly identified Cosmogen's expertise and have contacted us. All the more so as our offer meets the regulatory standards of the pharmaceutical industry.

The range includes the emblematic Squeeze'n range with On/Off closure for dispensing/applying/rinsing the applicator (micro, mini, medium, maxi formats), tubes with applicators, Needle tube, dropper tube. Particularly well-suited to the solid formulas increasingly common in pharmacies, ReUse sticks - in single-material and offered with a refill system - are also part of Cosmogen Pharma Care's range.

Cosmogen's primary packaging has already won over several players in the pharmaceutical industry. The tube with brush, for example, was selected by Alvadiem for its soothing nail care product. For the same indication, others preferred the mini Squeze'n Spatula. Boiron chose the classic Squeeze Roll for its repairing and relaxing CBD gel. Ceramol's Spot Block, a localized acne treatment, is packaged in the Spot Tip tube. Pharmagel chose the Maxi Squeeze'n Sculpt for its anti-cellulite body treatment, Mantecorp the dropper tube for its ultra-targeted blancy cis treatment, and Gelol the Triball tube for its relaxing massage treatment.

Cosmogen application solutions comply with Reach, FDA Contact, CLP (EC) N° 1272/2008 and CE 1223/2009 regulations and Packaging Waste 94/62/EC.

Lipoid Kosmetik launches a solution for odor, blemishes and dandruff

Lipoid Kosmetik - usNeo

A manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industries, Lipoid Kosmetik presents usNeo, a gentle, selective solution against unwanted microbes certified as microbiome-friendly.

Healthy skin contains thousands of different microbial species living in a balanced, sustainable and skin-friendly ecosystem known as the cutaneous microbiome. An imbalance in the cutaneous microbiome leads to an overpopulation of certain bacteria, the cause of undesirable skin conditions such as body odor, blemishes or dandruff. 

Conventional treatments rely on powerful antimicrobial strategies, yet these are often non-selective and detrimental to the skin's complex microbial balance. Lipoid Kosmetik has therefore developed usNeo, an effective and gentle alternative for microbial control with the following benefits for the user:

  • Plant-derived selective microbial control
  • Instant and lasting odor reduction
  • Effective treatment of skin imperfections
  • Gentle, long-term protection against dandruff.

According to the company, usNeo - a highly potent, selective and microbe-friendly cosmetic solution for body odor, skin blemishes and dandruff - is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic formulations.

The winners of the PCD Innovation Awards are announced

PCD Innovation Awards

Paris Packaging Week 2024 kicked off on Wednesday January 17. The PCD Innovation Awards set the tone for the opening day. The prizes went to the most attractive and technically innovative packaging in the fields of perfume, cosmetics, personal care, hair care and skin care. 

A total of 15 prizes and 10 certificates were awarded in nine categories. The president of the jury and Jean-Louis Mathiez, renowned owner of Cinqpats (an expert in innovative cosmetic packaging), presided over the ceremony in the Circular Economy Stage on the first afternoon of Paris Packaging Week. 

Finalist entries are displayed in a gallery dedicated to the Innovation Awards.

Naïma Havard, Senior Packaging Development Project Manager at LVMH Fragrance Brands, is delighted to have won a certificate in the 'Fragrance Woman' category: "We're delighted and honored to have received a certificate for this project, which was one of the most challenging, as it incorporates the innovation of a glass hood. We worked in partnership with the Pochet group, who were very professional and never gave up. This certificate therefore represents the fruit of hard work and a year and a half of dedication to creating something special for the cosmetics industry."

The four Paris Packaging Week shows (ADF, PCD, PLD and Packaging Première) bring together over 650 suppliers, 400 of whom exhibit the latest materials and formats at the PCD show. 

The results of the PCD Innovation Awards are as follows:

In the Makeup - Mass Market category
Prize awarded to : Covergirl Lash Blast Cleantopia Mascara - Coty
Certificate awarded to : Telescopic Lift Mascara by L'Oréal Paris - L'Oréal 

In the Premium makeup category
Prize awarded to : 31 Le Rouge - Chanel Parfums Beauté
Prize awarded to : Rouge Premier - Parfums Christian Dior
Certificate awarded to : Artist Face Powders - Make Up For Ever SA 

In the Personal care category 
Prize awarded to : Recycled and recyclable Eco-Recharge bottle - L'Occitane en Provence
Prize awarded to : Good Coloration - L'Oréal
Certificate awarded to : Oleor Color in shampoo-One Push - L'Oréal 

In the Skincare - Mass Market category 
Prize awarded to : Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster x Greenis Dispenser - Dermalogica
Certificate awarded to : Dermalogica Porescreen SPF40 mineral sunscreen - Dermalogica 

In the Premium skincare category 
Prize awarded to : Sublimage La Crème - Chanel Parfums Beauté
Prize awarded to : Sublimage Extrait de nuit - Chanel Parfums Beauté
Certificate attributed to : Dior Prestige Le Nectar Premier - Parfums Christian Dior
Certificate awarded to : The Ultimate Cream - Amorepacific / Verescence 

In the Fragrance - Women category 
Prize awarded to : La Panthère Eau de Parfum - Cartier Parfums
Prize awarded to : Burberry Her Eau de Parfum - Coty
Certificate awarded to : Flower By Kenzo Ikebana Eau de Parfum - LVMH Fragrance Brands 

In the Fragrance - Men category 
Prize awarded to : Penhaligon's - Potions & Remedies - Penhaligon's
Certificate awarded to : JPG Le Male Elixir - Puig France 

In the New Limited Edition > 2000 category 
Prize awarded to : Les écrins parfés - Cartier Parfums
Prize awarded to : MM Replica Wooden Box - L'Oréal
Certificate awarded to : Minaudière Make-up Christmas 2023 - Parfums Christian Dior 

In the New Limited Edition < 2000 category 
Prize awarded to : L'Or de J'adore by Jean-Michel Othoniel - Parfums Christian Dior
Prize awarded to : Temyris beauty minaudiere - Aurore & Paul - Temyris
Certificate attributed to : Crème Fondante Absolue by Lancôme x Le Louvre - L'Oréal - Lancôme 

Chaired by packaging expert Hervé Bouix, the PCD Innovation Awards jury included representatives from major brands such as Chanel, Cartier, Interparfums, L'Oréal, The Estée Lauder Companies and the Clarins Group. Jury members met at Jujin New York on December 14, 2023 to select the winners from over 220 initial entries. 

Beauty trends to watch in 2024

Quadpack-beauty-trends-2024

The marketing team at international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack presents a summary of the key trends in the beauty market for the year ahead.

The world is facing growing concerns about climate change, international conflicts, resource scarcity and the rising cost of living. We are all affected in one way or another, and we are all adapting in different ways. Against this rather gloomy backdrop, however, the future looks bright. Younger generations are aiming to improve things in the most personal way possible, while at the same time being hyper-connected. 

The trends currently emerging reflect the various attitudes adopted in the face of the current global context, and the changing ways in which we think, feel and consume. Marcia Bardauil, Marketing Lead at Quadpack, explains: "It's all about keeping hope alive for the future. Beauty brands are adapting to the new reality, and packaging has a crucial role to play in this context. By seeing or touching it, you establish a new relationship with the product and the brand."

Trend 1: It's made for me

The world is changing, and so are we! We're becoming a "flex generation". Why hold on to a fixed identity if you might feel differently tomorrow? After all, tastes evolve in fashion, cosmetics and even politics. You can also adopt different personas simultaneously, both online and in real life. 

This radical variability demands ultra-personalization. Artificial intelligence (AI) presents all kinds of opportunities for beauty brands, from digital diagnostic tools and virtual perfumes to in-game launches. Stores are becoming experimental spaces where you can try on products that you then buy online. Brands are using new and unique ways to connect with their target audience, with pop-up stores, festival events, podcasts and influencer participation.

How does this translate into packaging? Packaging can follow this trend, providing unforgettable, enriching experiences. It can integrate with the high-tech world, allowing you to connect to online programs that track your skincare progress or pre-select products specifically for your needs. Unique formats can be designed to enable the use of mix-and-match formulas. But above all, it must appeal to the senses. Haptic packaging can feature sound closures, special designs and finishes that change color or texture. A very soft package can evoke the sensation produced by the velvety formulas it contains, or a satin finish can reflect the silky effect of the products.

Trend 2: blue

The ocean is the source of inspiration for a movement, more than a trend: blue beauty. The oceans are seen as a resource to be protected, a source of ingredients and a creative influence. According to the United Nations, "the oceans nourish us, regulate our climate and generate most of the oxygen we breathe." It's also one of the largest untapped territories on earth, inspiring legends of mermaids and other fantastical sea creatures.

Protecting the oceans is of paramount importance, and we approach it in many different ways. Visit Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) prevents plastic waste from reaching the water, although waste recovery remains a major challenge. Beauty brands offer microplastic-free, reef-friendly dry products and formulas, but the risk of "blue-washing" remains high. Ocean-derived ingredients, such as trace elements obtained from sustainably-grown seaweed, are becoming increasingly popular. 

What does this mean for packaging? Packaging, if it contains plastic, must also be free of microplastics and preferably recycled from OBP. The Blue beauty can be inspired by the oceans, with marine-themed decorations, a color palette reflecting blues and greens, finishes reminiscent of water or textures evoking the aquatic environment, such as seapunk neoprene or "mermaid" scales.

Trend 3: quiet beauty

When consumers give priority to well-being, they reject over-consumption and we see a return to essentials. When making purchasing decisions, consumers ask themselves "Do I really need this?" and "Do I really need a new product?" However, they are willing to pay more for a quality product. While cost-cutting is the order of the day in other fields, prestige make-up remains unaffected. 

The Quiet beauty focuses on simplicity and efficiency. Less becomes more. B Corp beauty brands focus on what really matters. And skincare is becoming the new make-up, promoting natural, nude looks and a radiance that exudes health. In this space, brands offer essential yet premium ingredients that provide legitimate value to their customers, who are more informed than ever. Opportunities in the sector relate to the accelerating power of the mind-body connection and the transformative potential of psychodermatology and neuro-cosmetics. Here too, AI is helping to boost efficiency and accelerate product development.

How does this translate into packaging? Packaging can protect high-performance products and natural ingredients through hermetic design or by using airless technology. Reusable formats, which do not require new plastics for refilling, are part of eco-responsibility and offer good value for money, as consumers want sustainable solutions that last longer. Noble materials such as ceramics and wood fit perfectly into this approach. Their look and feel offer a timeless elegance, a craftsman-like aesthetic with minimalist lines.

Trend 4: an oasis in a dystopia

Volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity: we live in a Vuva world. Younger consumers, however, are moving towards a "protopia"-type future, where life continues to improve day by day, little by little. It's true that we face global challenges, but we've also made progress, for example in water treatment, green building, renewable energy and sustainable food or material alternatives. It's a stimulating approach, embracing technology to combine the familiar with the futuristic, always from an ethical perspective. 

Consumer pressure and companies' own sustainability goals are driving companies to improve their impact. In the beauty sector, brands are launching products that respond to the world's problems with dry formulas, advanced sun care and climate-adaptive solutions that help skin adapt to the environment in real time.

How does this translate into packaging? Alternative packaging materials fit in with protopia's vision of the future: biocomposites such as Sulapac, recycled plastics, wood, aluminum, leather, cement, terracotta, cork, etc., are all used. Formulas that adapt to the climate will benefit from protection, such as physical barriers or hermetic/airless formats. This trend calls for a dark look with organic elements, but also brutalist shapes. Finishes in metallic materials can help achieve this futuristic touch.

Trend 5: In search of eternity

The population over 60 will almost double by 2050. As we live longer, the way we age becomes all the more important. The emphasis is on prevention rather than cure, with holistic health and beauty routines. Science has proven that epigenetics (which refers to lifestyle and environmental factors) is directly linked to skin longevity. Our cells are continually exposed to a long list of stressors such as poor diet, lack of sleep, pollution and UV radiation, which can lead to health problems and rapid aging. 

Consumers, both young and old, are looking for proven beauty solutions: evidence-based supplements and treatments that enable the constant pursuit of eternal youth. Alongside this, our continual digital presence in videoconferencing, selfies and social networks has given rise to a wide range of non-invasive aesthetic therapies and "tweakments", from cryotherapy to needle-free fillers. In 2024, we'll see the big brands joining the niche companies that started the trend.

How does this translate into packaging? Depending on the formula or treatment, packaging can be designed to help meet the need, for example, by mixing the active agents with the serum in a two-in-one package, or by incorporating a contact applicator with a "cold" effect. Mini-ampoules will provide an effective solution to single-dose applications. The aesthetic is pure, clean and laboratory-inspired, while new creative concepts in nutri-cosmetics packaging could in turn transform the look of traditional "pill boxes".

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