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Cfic Awards, innovation revealed

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The editorial staff
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CFIC logo

The Cfic (Carrefour des fournisseurs de l'industrie cosmétique) is a meeting place for industrial solutions in the cosmetics industry, focusing on the sector's major transitions (energy, environmental, digital, technological, societal). It will be held on November 21 and 22, 2023 at Eurexpo Lyon.

The Cfic Awards competition, organized to coincide with the show, invites us to discover the innovations, trends and strategic know-how needed to develop our business and transform it over the long term.

A veritable revealer of concrete solutions, the competition highlights both innovations already on the market and prototypes. Divided into four categories (environmental transition; energy transition; digital & digital transition; societal transition), 26 services and products (from 22 companies) were in the running for this first edition of the competition.

The awards ceremony will take place at the show, on Tuesday November 21, 2023, at 5pm (conference room).

The "Energy Transition" category rewards innovations that contribute to improving a company's energy balance: energy efficiency, energy sobriety, green energy, carbon neutrality, etc. The winner in this category is Bachiller B S.A. for its HRB external/internal recirculation homogenizer with adjustable air gap. The HRB homogenizer delivers optimum dispersion quality over a wide viscosity range, reducing production times and saving energy for the cosmetics company.

The "Digital Transition" category encompasses solutions that support companies in their digital transformation, but also successful digital transition initiatives in terms of cybersecurity, robotization, AI, cobotics or skills evolution... The Good Face project won the prize in this category. The idea: to revolutionize the beauty industry with Cara, an AI. which, thanks to its database, can answer precise technical questions in the face of a ChatGPT that lacks precision, particularly with regard to efficacy, verification of regulatory compliance, optimization and safety of formulas or preservation of the environment.

The "Societal Transition" category focuses on innovations that contribute to improving the company's social or societal values, more responsible actions, and the quality of relations within and with teams, customers or partners. Greez was singled out in this category for its innovative solution to combat the wasteful use of unsold cosmetics by giving them a second life (donations to non-profit networks, recycling, resale to consumers at reduced prices on a dedicated online store). This global approach to reuse echoes the needs of the underprivileged, since 3 million people in France go without basic hygiene products.

In the "Environmental Transition" category, which rewards major innovations dedicated to the environment (waste management, recycling, eco-design, water management, circular economy, flow management, etc.), BR Conditionnement was rewarded for Niugreen, its new innovative and industrial cleaning platform with high environmental value for the reuse of glass bottles. The use of bio-CO2 for bottle washing and label removal reduces the company's carbon footprint by over 50 % of CO2, compared with the traditional glass recycling process. Invisible ultraviolet ink marking also ensures individualized traceability and protection against counterfeiting.

The jury's "Coup de Coeur" was awarded to Futura Gaia (in the "Environmental Transition" category) for Geocosm, a resilient solution for the traceability and security of plant raw materials. This innovative vertical farm system based on rotating geoponics meets the challenge of sustainable, local, resilient and pesticide-free agriculture for the production of high-quality plant raw materials for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. This solution also makes it possible to reproduce the growing conditions of rare plants.

L'Oréal and Cosmo International Fragrances unleash the olfactory power of natural ingredients through green science

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The editorial staff
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L'Oreal_Cosmo

The L'Oréal group today announced an exclusive and unprecedented partnership with Cosmo International Fragrances. The aim is to develop an extraction process based on green science. This technology promises to revolutionize the art of fine perfumery. Developed by Cosmo International Fragrances and made available exclusively to L'Oréal, this patent-pending process uses a slow, water-free, low-energy extraction. It reveals the exact scent of an ingredient while preserving its integrity. It relies on green science to push back olfactory frontiers, considerably expanding the perfumer's olfactory palette with pure, natural 100 % extracts.

"We're delighted to be partnering with Cosmo International Fragrances, and that the power of Open Innovation will enable us to go "from field to fragrance" while honoring the sustainability commitments of our L'Oréal for the Future program. With this green extraction process, we can capture the olfactory power of flowers in all their authenticity, as if we were walking through a garden, a field or a forest, said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal. With over 100 perfumery experts within the group, this exclusive partnership is a masterstroke at the very heart of the perfume industry."

L'Oréal and Cosmo International Fragrances share the same vision: to create luxury fragrances using innovative, sustainable methods that enhance natural ingredients while limiting environmental impact. Using only air, this technology exploits the fragrant volatile molecules of flowers, fruits and other natural ingredients, without resorting to traditional distillation processes or the use of chemical solvents. Flowers retain their integrity and can be recycled and reused in a second extraction, helping to reduce waste.

"Perfumers dreamed of it: creating fragrances with authentic scents has become a reality, the ultimate luxury in quality! With Cosmo International Fragrances, our brands can explore new creative avenues, letting natural ingredients reveal their full olfactory identity.said Cyril Chapuy, General Manager of L'Oréal Luxe. As the world leader in luxury fragrances, we are committed to ensuring that the entire fragrance value chain is sustainable. It's not just a choice: it's a conviction. From the selection of ingredients to the use of refills, we innovate at every stage to reduce our impact and move towards a more responsible model. This partnership with Cosmo International Fragrances allows us to usher in a new creative era for our luxury fragrances."

"We're delighted to be working with our long-standing partner, L'Oréal, which is particularly well placed to harness the transformative capabilities of green science to produce fragrances on a large scale, said Marc Blaison, President of Cosmo International Fragrances. The combination of our expertise in luxury perfumery and our shared commitment to preserving the planet will enable us to offer perfume lovers the world over exceptional olfactory creations, produced responsibly thanks to a perfectly controlled process."

In a booming market where consumers are looking for unique accords and novelties, the first collaboration will involve the creation of a fragrance incorporating the natural floral signature of tuberose. Its launch is scheduled for 2024.

Photo: © Agence Odds

RejuveNAD naturally stimulates NAD+ for skin longevity

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The editorial staff
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Mibelle

NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) plays a crucial role in various cellular processes and has received significant attention in anti-aging supplements. However, the use of NAD+ in cosmetics has so far been unsuccessful, as the molecule is not very stable in formulations and cannot be absorbed by skin cells.

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a holistic solution for increasing NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications. Sourced from sunflower sprouts grown sustainably indoors, their formula naturally boosts the longevity molecule NAD+ to optimize cellular processes.

RejuveNAD is a new natural active ingredient that stimulates endogenous NAD+ regeneration by activating the NAMPT (Nicotinamide Phosphoribosyltransferase) enzyme. Clinical studies show that this active ingredient can simultaneously counteract at least 5 signs of skin aging: mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability, making skin appear 8 years younger in just 42 days.

Benefits of RejuveNAD :

  • Increases NAD levels
  • Tackles the 5 characteristics of aging
  • Energizes mitochondria and promotes DNA repair
  • Makes skin look 8 years younger

Givaudan unveils an olfactory exploration of the new codes of love, according to Gen Z

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The editorial staff
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Givaudan What is love

Unfiltered, authentic and inclusive: as the laws of attraction continue to redefine themselves, Givaudan's perfumers have delivered their fragrant interpretations of love and seduction, as seen through the eyes of Gen Z.

Givaudan, the global specialist in fine fragrances, has revealed its new creative vision, "What is Love?", which translates the love language of Gen Z into fragrances and stages it through an immersive experience.

While 73 % of 16-24 year-olds in the USA, and 68 % in France consider perfume to be the tipping point that seals the feeling of love, "What is love?" brings to life Gen Z's definition of love and seduction, fueled by unfiltered digital exposure. With over 3.9 billion views gathered under the hashtag #PerfumeTok on TikTok, the fragrance demonstrates the central place it holds in Gen Z's emotional expression.

"What is love?" is the result of in-depth research, supported by consumer studies and extensive listening to social networks, to deliver the most relevant and nuanced olfactory interpretation of these new love codes, which celebrate inclusivity and the exaltation of emotions.

With absolute creative freedom, Givaudan's perfumers have transposed the values of authenticity and the search for true bonds so dear to the heart of Gen Z into exclusive accords.

Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Marketing and Image Director, Fine Fragrance Global: "Focusing on this Gen Z-led reinvention of sensuality, gender and relationships, "What is Love?" delivers a realistic interpretation of what "love" means to this generation. The central place given to vulnerability and the most authentic emotions represents an exceptional terrain of inspiration for our perfumers, who by connecting deeply with this disruptive and non-genre philosophy, have been able to shatter preconceived ideas around the notion of seduction and love in perfumery."

"Givaudan's expertise in analyzing and anticipating the expectations of future consumers takes on a new form thanks to this program, adds Xavier Renard, Director of Fine Fragrance Global. The result of extensive research over the last two years, "What is Love?" is a strategic opportunity to reappropriate a fundamental theme in perfumery: love, while exploring its new forms of expression specific to current and future generations."

The "What is love?" creations were presented during an immersive fragrance event that allowed us to dive into the world of Gen Z, from the intimacy of their bedrooms to their phone screens, and whose most spontaneous emotions make up the new vocabulary of love.

This exclusive experience took place in New York from September 18 to 29, in Paris from October 9 to 20, and was introduced at Beautyworld, in Dubai, from October 30 to November 1.

According to the company, "by going beyond stereotypes alongside Gen Z, Givaudan demonstrates its unique understanding of this free-spirited and exalted generation, the better to shape the future of perfumery."

(1) Givaudan internal quantitative survey

Cosnova eliminates all microplastics from its formulas.

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The editorial staff
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Cosnova

At a time when the European Commission is announcing a gradual ban on the use of microplastics, Cosnova, a European make-up specialist based in Germany, announces that it has already eliminated 100 % of microplastics from all its Essence and Catrice products since March 2023.

A forthcoming European Commission directive on cosmetics and microplastics is set to shake up the industry: it will gradually introduce new requirements concerning microplastics. The ban will apply to all persistent synthetic particles smaller than 5 mm, and thus to cosmetics such as exfoliants and glitter.

The ban is part of the EU's efforts to reduce pollution. Microplastics are tiny particles of plastic that enter the oceans through the water cycle. The gradual implementation of the directive now concerns flakes or exfoliating beads contained in rinse-off products. Other products containing microplastics will benefit from a 12-year transition period. However, in eight years' time, these transitional products will have to bear the words "this product contains microplastics" until the definitive ban.

A priority for Cosnova since 2020 

Katrin Steinbach, an expert in Cosnova's Corporate Responsibility technical unit, reacts to the announcement: " As a company that has been pursuing an ambitious sustainability strategy for many years, we welcome the EU's decision. We began developing microplastic-free products three years ago, and have already revised all our existing products. Since March this year, all Essence and Catrice products have been 100 % microplastic-free.

All products from both brands that have a glittery effect, such as eyeshadow or nail polish, contain either biodegradable glitter or mineral particles such as mica.

For products with an exfoliating effect, such as lip scrubs, Cosnova also uses exclusively natural substances, such as sugar, plant bark powder or jojoba beads.

Here are a few examples of the alternatives to microplastic used by cosnova:

  • Mineral substances: effect pigments based on mica or silica (ethically degraded) effect pigments based on borosilicate and synthetic fluorophlogopite
  • Biodegradable sequins made from renewable materials, combined in different layers
  • Sugar
  • Lemon zest powder
  • Hardened jojoba oil
  • Bamboo powder

No more volatile silicones from 2025 

Eliminating microplastics is only one step. Cosnova is working on new formulas without volatile silicones. The spectrum of silicones and their uses is very broad, as is their impact on health and the environment. Like microplastics, these synthetic plastics are released into nature via wastewater. It is therefore very difficult to eliminate them. Cosnova intends to completely eliminate volatile silicones from its product formulas by 2025.

Product safety: one of Cosnova's five CSR pillars 

"As a major player in the beauty industry, cosnova takes its responsibilities to fundamentally reduce its ecological footprint. Beyond "product safety", the company continues to innovate around four other pillars: climate and environment, waste reduction, working conditions and employee social initiatives."the company says.

Axium Packaging sets up in Italy

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The editorial staff
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Axium Packaging

Axium Packaging, which specializes in the manufacture of jars, bottles and closures in PET, recycled PET, & PP, PCR PP for the hygiene-beauty and food markets, has just completed a new external growth operation: the acquisition of the Italian company Silte srl.

Silte srl, a family-owned SME based in Budrio near Bologna, Italy, specializes in the manufacture of extrusion blow-molded and cold cycle blow-molded jars and bottles for the Italian hygiene-beauty, cosmetics and detergents markets. Founded in 1970, the company generates sales of 7.5 million euros and employs 25 people at its Italian production site.

The integration of Silte srl into the group enables Axium Packaging to strengthen its presence in Italy, and enhances the group's standard and specific packaging offer, while remaining in line with its strategic development objective: to offer its customers eco-designed packaging comprising a container and a customized closure solution.

Complementary in its plastic packaging offering, Silte srl will thus benefit from the synergy of development with the group's other entities to strengthen its product and service offering on the Italian market, particularly for the food industry.

This acquisition strengthens the position of the Axium Packaging Group, which is now present in Europe with five production sites employing 385 people and consolidated sales of almost €80 million after this acquisition.

Photo from www.axium-packaging.eu

Cosmogen's Tense RPE tube and ceramic applicator win over Caudalie

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The editorial staff
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Cosmogen - Caudalie

Caudalie has adopted Cosmogen's Tense RPE (PE PCR) tube and ceramic applicator for Vinoperfect "Soin éclaircissant regard".

The refreshing action of the ceramic applicator maximizes the results of the treatment on dark circles and reveals a more luminous eye contour. The tube is made from recycled PE (PCR) and the applicator is detachable for easy sorting and recycling at the end of its life.

Cosmogen's Tense tube is patented packaging, available in recycled plastic (PCR), with a removable ceramic or metal applicator that can be reused on a refill. In 2023, Cosmogen launched Squeeze'n Fresh removable, a new targeted applicator. With its modern, original design, removable stainless steel tip that can be replaced on a refill and separated at the end of its life, and on/off closure system for dispensing (on), applying and washing the tip (off), Squeeze'n Fresh removable is in line with Cosmogen's philosophy of responsible innovation for safe, sustainable beauty. Tube and cap are available in recycled plastic.

What are the keys to producing eco-friendly natural extracts?

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A draft with the words technical day.

"From flowers to fragrances and flavors: the fragrance and flavor industry listens to the earth": the 5th edition of the technical day dedicated to fragrances and flavors will be held on November 30 at the Palais des Congrès in Grasse. The Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster aims to offer a comprehensive review of innovation across the fragrance value chain, so as to provide consumers with environmentally-friendly fragranced cosmetics. 

Among the themes addressed, plant extraction, at the heart of the emblematic know-how of the Pays de Grasse, recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site, will be extensively developed. While natural extracts form the very essence of a perfume, their eco-socio-responsibility is now fundamental to fully meeting consumer expectations. 

The use of innovative extraction technologies is not enough. The environmental impacts of the upstream cultivation phase, as well as social aspects, need to be integrated into an overall 360°C approach. This will be the focus of the first session, which will combine an assessment of the Indian Ocean's emblematic perfume plant sectors in the face of global warming, with presentations of innovative production methodologies for natural raw materials. Collaboration with producers of vanilla, clove, ylang-ylang, vetiver, geranium, ginger, cinnamon, pink berries, etc., as well as existing techniques and solutions for regenerative agriculture and soilless cultivation will be presented. Prior to the event, on the evening of Wednesday November 29 at the Villa Blu By Robertet, the cluster's start-ups will have already presented breakthrough solutions: vertical farms, the benefits of mycorrhization for soils and yields in particular. 

The session on transformation and processes will draw heavily on this global approach to controlling the environmental and social footprint of ingredients. The added value of developing our own supply chains and vertical integration will be clearly illustrated by the use of high-performance management tools. The industrial development of alternative and ecological processes, an essential complement, will be illustrated by DSM-Firmenich's FirGood technology, the new generation of absolutes obtained with Robertet's CleanRscent agrosolvent, or EDEN Ecosystem's industrial deployment of ultrasound.

As the entire flavor and fragrance industry is mobilized to protect the planet, other innovations limiting environmental impacts will naturally be addressed during the day, focusing on know-how, the creation and formulation of eco-responsible fragrances, and tools guaranteeing transparency and respect for the environment for consumers. The day's events will feature a wide range of interactive discussions at expert conferences attended by 150 to 200 participants - an interdisciplinary audience comprising CEOs, R&D, researchers, perfumers, marketing and regulatory assessors. At the closing session, all will be able to debate and launch new positive-impact initiatives.

For more information: https://pole-innovalliance.com/events/technical-day-of-flowers-and-perfumes-and-aromas

Improving packaging line efficiency with automatic fillers

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The editorial staff
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CDA K-Dense automatic filling table

When it comes to optimizing the productivity and quality of your packaging line, there are many factors to consider. The integration of machines such as fillers, screwers and labellers enables packaging speeds to be increased considerably. This in turn saves time for the company's core business: production.

Increased productivity

"One of the main concerns of any manufacturing company is to increase productivity while maintaining product quality. CDA automatic fillers are designed to achieve this balance. They are renowned for their versatility, and are thus able to fill a wide variety of containers quickly and accurately without making too many adjustments. CDA engineers are also committed to creating machines with "good cleanability". This considerably reduces packaging line downtime.says CDA.

Error reduction

CDA's automatic fillers feature advanced technology and precision control to minimize filling errors. This means less wasted raw material, fewer rejects and a significant reduction in labor costs associated with error correction.

Lower operating costs

The efficiency of a packaging line has a direct impact on operating costs. "By investing in CDA automatic fillers, it is possible to reduce expenses related to labor, training and quality control operations. What's more, these machines are designed to be easy to maintain, clean and adjust, minimizing unplanned downtime and repair costs."continues CDA. 

Improving product quality

Product quality is essential to attract new customers, retain their loyalty and maintain a solid reputation in the market. CDA's automatic fillers ensure precise, professional product dosing, avoiding the inconsistencies often associated with manual filling methods. CDA offers the option of customizing filling parameters to meet exact product specifications, guaranteeing consistently high quality.

"CDA filling machines are investments that help companies improve their packaging efficiency (and therefore indirectly their production). They offer higher productivity, fewer errors, lower operating costs and improved product quality".concludes CDA.

Photo: K-Dense, automatic filling table for dosing pasty products. Photo taken from cdafrance.com.

A fun refill with a pot that pops!

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The editorial staff
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PP-Pop pot from Quadpack

Quadpack's PP-Pop pot is a single-material solution with an attractive refill system.

The new PP-Pop jar from international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack is a fun solution for refillable cosmetics, featuring a fresh new gesture. Once the internal cartridge is complete, it is ejected by pushing it from the bottom of the jar, emitting a "pop" as it emerges. Simply insert the refill from the top.

Karen Merchán, Category Manager - Skincare, explains: "Refill concepts only work if they're easy and attractive, and the PP-Pop jar ticks all the boxes. Changing refills is easy and clean, and the 'pop' gesture makes the experience enjoyable. It's also compatible with most formulas, and best of all, it's one of our most sustainable solutions."

The jar's components are minimalist, consisting of a ring-shaped outer jar, a heat-sealed interior, a lid and a cap - and nothing else, no false bottom or superfluous material. Made entirely from polypropylene, the PP-Pop jar represents an "advanced level" of sustainability according to Quadpack's Positive Impact Packaging (PIP) rating system. The lid and outer jar can also include up to 75 % of PCR or Ocean Bound plastic, derived from waste diverted from the oceans. Lifecycle analyses show significant improvements in water use and carbon footprint for PCR versions.

Available in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml, the PP-Pop jar is ideal for face, body and hair care products. Brands can get creative when it comes to decorating the various components, offering a fantastic user experience.

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