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Febea's Claire application on the syllabus of beauty, cosmetics and perfumery schools

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Thanks to the efforts of the Confédération nationale de l'esthétique parfumerie (Cnep), the Claire application developed by the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), which deciphers cosmetics ingredients, will be integrated into school curricula for CAP, BP, Bac Pro and BTS students in aesthetics, cosmetics and perfumery by the start of the 2023 academic year.

Developed by Febea in 2020 with the support of the Société française de cosmétologie (SFC), the Claire application provides reliable, educational scientific information on over 29,000 ingredients found in cosmetic products. It is designed for professionals in the sector (sales advisors, hairdressers, beauticians, etc.) and consumers alike.

The Claire application lets you search for information on a particular ingredient, or scan a product's ingredient list to find out what it contains. It does not give any rating or opinion on the ingredient, but only popularized, reliable and verified scientific information, to enable consumers to make up their own minds.

From the start of the 2023 academic year, under the impetus of the Cnep, the Claire application will be integrated into the guides accompanying the reference materials for the national education system's aesthetics, cosmetics and perfumery diplomas, given to trainers. Over 12,000 students will be trained in the use of this application. The aim is to provide them with an easy-to-use tool that will enable them to quickly answer all the questions customers ask about the composition of cosmetic products.

As part of the national training program, the Claire application was presented to all French inspectors.

Saffron flower extract with antioxidant, anti-aging and soothing properties

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The editorial staff
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Thanks to its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process, Biolie has developed Saffrever, a saffron flower extract with antioxidant, anti-aging and soothing properties.

An upcycled natural active ingredient...

This aqueous active ingredient is obtained by enzymatic extraction of saffron cultivation by-products. It is derived from upcycled saffron crocus petals.

... with multiple properties

Saffrever inhibits the activity of β-galactosidase and IL-1, making it a highly effective anti-ageing active with soothing properties, according to Biolie. It also has antioxidant properties, repelling up to 90 % of free radicals.

Good complexion, good eyes with Lumene and Cosmogen's Tense tube

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The editorial staff
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Nordic brand Lumene has chosen Cosmogen's patented Tense tube for its Lumene hybrid corrector, Invisible illumination, serum in concealer.

This innovative multi-benefit formula combines a cold massage, an eye serum and the coverage of a concealer, to refresh, moisturize and illuminate the eye contour. True to the brand's values, the tube is made of recycled PE, and the applicator is detachable for easy sorting and recycling at the end of its life.

Lumene's vision is to be the No. 1 beauty brand in the Nordic countries, recognized for its ingredients derived from sustainable Arctic craftsmanship by a large community of international consumers. Its mission is to develop sustainable, high-performance beauty products for a better future.

The Tense tube continues to win over customers. The perceived benefit is immediate, thanks to the cool effect of its zamak applicator and its easy, expert gesture. The design of this patented packaging had been entirely rethought to make the applicator removable and reusable on a new tube, available in recycled plastic. All components - cap, applicator, tube - are separable and recyclable at end-of-life.

By the end of 2022, Cosmogen had launched a collection of five textured zamak applicators, distinguished by their customization and feel. Cosmogen offers exclusive design development for brands.

Seppic extends its expertise to hair

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The editorial staff
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At a time when one in two women is likely to suffer from excessive hair loss at some point in her life1 The global nutricosmetics market is showing increasing interest in the hair segment. Seppic, with over 10 years' expertise in skin care, is now extending its know-how to hair, with promising clinical results.

The maintenance and renewal of healthy hair is directly correlated with its lipid composition. This is why ceramides, known for their involvement in intracellular lipid formation, play a key role, acting as a barrier to protect the hair cuticle.

With this in mind, Seppic has launched a clinical study on its natural nutraceutical ingredient Ceramosides, obtained from wheat lipids and rich in phytoceramides.

This randomized, placebo-controlled study was carried out on a panel of women of all ages affected by non-pathological hair loss. In just three months, the results highlighted significant effects on various key hair parameters:

  • significant hair length growth of 12.5% vs. placebo
  • a 2-fold increase in the number of hairs in the growth phase: +11,000 (compared with less than 5,000 in the placebo group)
  • a significant 27% reduction in hair loss vs. placebo
  • significant improvement in hair's resistance to breakage thanks to increased elasticity
  • a significant reduction in scalp sebum in women with oily hair

This new study extends the field of application of Ceramosides, whose anti-aging and moisturizing efficacy on the skin has already been proven in three clinical studies. 

Ceramosides is vegan, guaranteed GMO-free, additive-free, preservative-free and gluten-free. It is certified kosher and also has an organic grade.

1 Cleveland Clinic. Hair Loss in Women (online). Accessed in June 2023. 

Groupe Berkem signs distribution agreement in India with Indchem International

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The editorial staff
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Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces the signature of an agreement with Indchem International, a major global supplier of cosmetic ingredients for the beauty sector, for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in India. 

Indchem International is one of the leading suppliers of ingredients for the lifestyle market, whose strength lies in analyzing and responding to constantly evolving market trends, guaranteeing their customers products with ever more stringent specifications than those demanded by the international market. With this new distribution agreement, Groupe Berkem is extending its strategy of international coverage of the lifestyle and cosmetics markets in India for its plant-based ingredients, via specialized distributors. 

The Indian cosmetics industry was estimated at 5.49 billion euros in 2019, with ambitions to triple to 17.8 billion euros by 2025. The growth of the middle class and its purchasing power, the expansion of sales channels, the influence of celebrities, and the search for alternative outlets to China, are all factors for a strengthened demand for high-end cosmetics, for which the industry wants to be ready.* 

Éric Moussu, Groupe Berkem Sales Director, comments: "Aware of the strong growth potential of the Indian market and the importance of bringing naturalness to cosmetic products in order to guarantee their quality and performance, we are very proud to be able to count on solid partners such as Indchem international, which has a strong presence in the territory, to ensure the distribution of Groupe Berkem cosmetic ingredients, and to participate in the naturalization of the cosmetics market, which is undergoing rapid transformation, while strengthening our international presence." 

Tavleen Sainathan for IndChem International, adds: "We constantly support our customers and strive to be a one-stop solution provider. Our expertise in identifying specific products enables our customers to stand out in the markets they address. Thanks to leading players in plant-based chemistry like Groupe Berkem, we can reinforce this unique offer of quality products, and enable our customers to strengthen their position in the markets they address via high-end ingredients." 

* Source: data from BusinessFrance

Laser marking: Seram to benefit from Qiova's know-how

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The editorial staff
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Seram, a subsidiary of the Neyret group specializing in accessories and ornaments for the luxury goods industry, has joined forces with Qiova's expertise in innovative femtosecond laser material treatment solutions.

Thanks to Qiova's patented programmable multi-beam laser technology, Seram can produce an infinite variety of functional and aesthetic markings in extremely short times, on a wide range of materials: glass, metal (aluminum, zamac, brass, copper...), ceramic, polymer, textile, wood, cardboard...

The femtosecond laser, by means of a specific interaction of light with the material, enables us to obtain exceptional renderings, right on the product itself or on an added decoration (metal plate, leather decoration, etc.), with perfect control of precision and reproducibility.

QR codes, integrated into the decor or of the infinitely small order, will now be customizable at very high speed, to enable unitary identification of packaging without disrupting the user experience. Digital technology will be integrated into the product in an evolutionary and retroactive way to create a link with users.

The Neyret group is now able to offer a global solution (laser + software) and can therefore provide customers with a turnkey solution, with Seram providing the laser part and Sansara (also part of the Neyret group) providing the software environment for product tracking.

From design to digital solution, including support, these new complete decoration and traceability solutions will integrate all industrial customer constraints throughout the project.

The stakes involved in this Seram-Qiova merger are manifold.

They provide answers to :

  • new consumer expectations: CSR / environment / transparency / storytelling / etc.
  • new aesthetic branding needs: revamping / co-branding / sensoriality
  • new product uses: millennials / NFT / phygital / second life
  • new market and regulator requirements: Agec law / anti-counterfeiting / DPP (Digital Product Passport)

Pochet: 400 years of innovation and new collaborations with start-ups

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The editorial staff
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Founded in 1623 in the Bresles valley, the Pochet group recently welcomed its customers to its Paris premises for a tour retracing its history., highlighting its innovations and initiatives.

"400 years: a magnificent resource for preparing the future".says Xavier Gajey, CEO of the Pochet Group, which this year celebrates its 400th anniversary.

From the small Le Courval glassworks to today's multi-material group, the Pochet Group has grown by combining excellence, luxury and innovation. The group - which today employs 3,700 people on three continents - has become a benchmark in the production of complex glass bottles, while diversifying its expertise in materials and finishing.

A declared ambition: "to be the beauty industry's partner of choice for the long term.

Two announcements have been made to this effect: Chanel and the Pochet Group have developed a digital tool to measure all their energy consumption in real time; the Pochet Group has also entered into a partnership with start-up MagREEsource to offer its customers recycled magnets manufactured in France.

"You can't be sustainable over time if you're not determined to put the planet and the teams at the heart of the project".points out Xavier Gajey.

Better control of energy consumption

As part of its CSR approach, the Pochet Group has set itself the ambitious target of reducing its CO2 emissions by 50 % by 2033. To meet this target, it has teamed up with Chanel and set up a digital tool to measure all its energy consumption in real time at all its factories, and more specifically at its Pochet du Courval - Guimerville plant.

This innovative tool was developed in partnership with Chanel, the Pochet group and Metron, the start-up supplying the solution.

Installed in mid-2022 at the Pochet du Courval - Guimerville glass plant, the Metron tool enables the plant's energy consumption to be managed as a whole, with the implementation of a consumption standard per item/production line.

Thanks to these new control systems, the Pochet du Courval plant has seen a gain of 27 % in gas consumption by its re-baking arches since October 2022, and a gain in consumption by its furnaces and feeders that is currently being quantified.

This investment is part of a long-term collaborative approach between Chanel and Pochet, placing eco-responsibility at the heart of both companies' actions.

"The long-standing relationship we have with our customers enables us to innovate beyond our processes by stepping out of our comfort zone, opening up to the outside world through partnerships that make sense and bring value to the entire ecosystem".says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.

Recycled magnets 

Committed to protecting the environment, recycling raw materials and conserving natural resources, Pochet entered into an 18-month partnership with French start-up MagREEsource to offer its customers recycled magnets made in France.

MagREEsource is developing an innovative technology for recycling magnets sourced in France from the dismantling of wind turbines and electric motors.

"In particular, this innovation will make it possible to divide the magnet's carbon footprint by 10 compared with a magnet manufactured in Asia."says Nicolas Piffault, Pochet Group CSR Director.

Thanks to its knowledge of the beauty and luxury markets, the Pochet Group, in partnership with MagREEsource and its customers, intends to integrate these responsible magnets into perfume caps.

The Group is convinced that innovation means going beyond products and processes to build meaningful partnerships with its entire ecosystem, opening up to the world and pursuing its transformation.

"It's totally innovative and daring for a 400-year-old company like Pochet to team up with a young start-up to make the codes of luxury sustainable.says Nicolas Piffault.

A conference to discuss the future of the European cosmetics industry

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The editorial staff
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As part of the Go4Cosmetics European inter-regional partnership, the Centre-Val de Loire and Lombardy regions organized a conference to discuss the future of the European cosmetics industry, with the support of Cosmetic Valley, the French competitiveness cluster, and REI - Reindustria Innovazione, the development agency and coordinator of the Lombardy Cosmetics System.

The event was hosted by the European Committee of the Regions in Brussels on Monday July 3, in the presence of European institutions and players from the cosmetics industry.

Today, the industry wishes to draw the attention of European institutions to its challenges and the need to be considered as a priority industry. Indeed, while certain sectors of the cosmetics industry value chain are recognized as key industries by the EU, the cosmetics industry as a whole is not yet one of the 14 European priority industrial ecosystems. European programs do not target the cosmetics industry as an application sector, which considerably limits access to funding. This lack of recognition has a direct impact on both academic and industrial players.

The industry needs the EU's support to achieve the objectives of the European Green Pact and successfully pursue its ecological and digital transitions.

On July 3, the cosmetics ecosystems of Europe's regions came together to present their joint research and innovation strategy to accelerate transitions and remain competitive in the face of increased international competition.

A rich program

The conference brought together experts from across the cosmetics ecosystem to share knowledge, strategies and testimonials. The program was moderated by Christopher Burns, co-director of Burnstorm Communication.

The event kicked off with opening remarks from François Bonneau, President of the Centre-Val de Loire region, and representatives of the Lombardy region. Marc Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, shed further light on the industry's current challenges.

The first round table, entitled "Strategies for success", focused on implementing ecological and digital transitions in the cosmetics industry. Speakers included representatives from the European Commission (EC) and the European Parliament (EP), regulatory experts, industry representatives from Lombardy Cosmetic System and a well-known French ETI.

The second panel addressed the subject of international competition in the cosmetics industry. The panel will include prominent speakers from the Parliament and the Commission, Cosmetica Italia, representatives of the Beauty Cluster, as well as industry representatives from Lombardy Cosmetic System and a well-known French cosmetics company.

At the third round table, "Meeting the challenges of the cosmetics industry", participants explored how research, innovation and skills can help overcome industry challenges and seize new opportunities. Key representatives from the European Commission, academia and industry will share their perspectives and success stories, followed by a Q&A session.

The conference concluded with closing remarks and political conclusions from Anne Besnier, Vice-President of Research and Higher Education for the CentreVal de Loire region and member of the Comité des Régions, and Christophe Masson, Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley.

This conference was a rich moment of exchange between industry professionals, political decision-makers and stakeholders to foster collaboration towards a sustainable and resolutely digital cosmetics industry.

A flagship industry

The event was an opportunity to highlight the considerable value of the European cosmetics industry, which in 2021 is estimated to be worth 80 billion euros at retail price, and represents the world's largest market for cosmetic products. It is estimated that the cosmetics and personal care products industry contributes 29 billion euros of added value to the European economy every year: 11 billion euros from cosmetics manufacturing and 18 billion euros indirectly through the supply chain.

Including direct, indirect and induced economic activity, the industry supports over 2 million jobs. In 2021, over 255,111 people were employed directly and a further 1.71 million indirectly in the cosmetics value chain.

What's more, by attracting investment from outside the EU, developing intangible assets such as brands and investing in research and development, the cosmetics and personal care products industry is helping to strengthen the competitiveness of the European economy and foster its future prosperity.

The vast majority of Europe's 500 million consumers use cosmetics and personal care products every day to protect their health, enhance their well-being and boost their self-esteem. From deodorants and perfumes to make-up, shampoos, soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cosmetics play an essential role at every stage of our lives, providing important functional and emotional services.

About Go4Cosmetics: To enable the European ecosystem to consolidate its position as world leader in this highly competitive market, the Conseil Régional de Centre-Val de Loire, the DEV'UP regional economic development agency, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster, the Lombardy Region, the economic development agency Reindustria Innovazione (REI) and Lombardy's cosmetics ecosystem have joined forces to create a European thematic partnership "Go4Cosmetics" as part of the Intelligent Specialization Platform for Industrial Modernization, promoted by the European Commission and approved in June 2021.

Eight other European regions have joined the initiative: Catalonia in Spain, Centre in Portugal, Nord-Ouest in Romania, Olomouc in the Czech Republic, Sardinia in Italy, Normandy in France, Nouvelle-Aquitaine in France and Lubelskie in Poland. The aim is to strengthen inter-regional collaboration to connect the different regional ecosystems, enabling the exchange of experience and know-how, with the common objective of designing, planning and supporting the development of investment projects actively involving industry players and researchers, while taking into account the latest scientific research findings. A key aspect of the Go4Cosmetics partnership is that it encompasses the entire European chain, from suppliers to R&D to consumers, in order to foster new alliances for investment, innovation and experience sharing. The partnership also serves as a vehicle for representing the interests of the cosmetics industry to European institutions and highlighting policies linked to digital and ecological transformations.

Texen honors YSL's new codes for All Hours

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The editorial staff
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New decor, new challenges: the All Hours foundation adopts the brand's 2023 design. The Yves Saint Laurent logo encircles the hood like a snap ring. This decorative subtlety, added to the technical challenge of a headdress containing materials from recycled sourceswill have required both technical daring and industrial maturity on the part of Texen's teams. Challenge met.

The new All Hours foundation promises high coverage and hold for a luminous matte finish, with no masking effect. In the wake of the Libre fragrance, its packaging features a new design with the YSL logo at its center.

Luxury and eco-design

To meet the expectations of the brand and its environmental commitments, shared by Texen, the project involved adopting a new-generation material. Texen's industrial performance was based on a dual challenge: aesthetic requirements and the use of RPET. The cap was made in a single piece by engraving the logo in the mold, and the thickness of the relief was an additional challenge.

To optimize the design of the industrial tools, Texen's teams carried out a rheological study. The experts perfected the various injection parameters, anticipating the behavior of the material in order to avoid any lines of re-bonding and ensure total uniformity of the molded part.

This expertise, acquired over time, is a real asset on products where expectations are both technical and aesthetic. The second delicate operation is the decoration of the hood and the hot stamping of the decoration in a single pass.

This technically complex product and the use of recycled material required solid cooperation between Texen's technical and development teams at the service of the brand. The eco-design objective was at the heart of the collaboration. Texen is more than ever a partner to brands on projects with a high level of environmental maturity. 

In its 2025 roadmap, 100 % of Texen's offerings will feature an eco-design alternative.

Publication of Afnor spec 2215, a guide to displaying the environmental and societal impact of products 

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The editorial staff
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A major first for the cosmetics, fragrances and nutraceuticals sectors: in just nine months, 120 participants from 26 different organizations (from VSEs to major international groups, including suppliers, independent consultancies and an academic body), including members of the Green Impact Index consortium, worked collectively under the aegis of Afnor to co-construct a methodology for calculating and displaying the environmental and societal impact of cosmetics, wellness and family health products. 

Eric Ducournau, CEO of the Pierre Fabre Group and Chairman of the Green Impact Index consortium, said: " This reference document is a perfect illustration of what collective intelligence can produce in the service of the common good. It now enables all manufacturers of finished products to develop eco-socio-designed products based on common criteria. I am delighted to announce that the first general meeting of the Green Impact Index consortium was held on June 26. A key step in this ambitious and unifying project. We can all take action to reduce the environmental and societal impact of our organizations by making the transition through the products we sell".

Saskia Mamzed Decathlon Health & Care Brand Leader, adds: " Since 2009, Decathlon has been working on the environmental assessment of its products, using the most advanced calculation methods at European level. These quantitative assessment methods enable us to display the environmental impact of our textile and footwear products. For cosmetics, we have chosen to join the Green Impact Index consortium in order to benefit from a pragmatic, comparable method, co-constructed by various market players, leading to the quantitative and qualitative environmental evaluation of our products."

The Green Impact Index consortium's active work on environmental labelling methodology, under the aegis of Afnor, is part of a voluntary initiative within the framework of the European Green Deal: anticipating environmental labelling in the cosmetics, fragrances and nutraceuticals sectors.

Like Nutriscore, the methodology we've developed will enable consumers to choose their cosmetics and wellness products with full knowledge of the facts, thanks to an A to E grading system.

Chloé Fortin, Afnor project manager, explains: "In nine months' work, the participants have succeeded in pooling their strengths to overcome the difficulties of finding applicable and measurable criteria on the basis of consensus. This first methodological compendium could serve as a contribution to the establishment of a future standard, if a new, broader agreement is reached with all the players in the sector."

Understanding the methodology

From the outset, the 120 participants set themselves the goal of developing a methodology that would meet three objectives:

  1. Provide consumers with reliable and transparent information on the quantification of the environmental (e.g. packaging, formulation, etc.) and societal impacts of products (e.g. fair trade, brand commitments, etc.),
  2. Provide economic players with a real lever for progress in the eco-socio-design of products,
  3. Enable the implementation of this display at a cost that is economically acceptable to companies of all sizes.

To do this, they used existing environmental and societal display methods, such as the Green Impact Index launched by Laboratoires Pierre Fabre, Technicoflor's FlorIndex, Groupe Rocher's ecosocioconsoscore, and the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) developed by the European Commission, with a view to the Green Claims Directive, which is designed to combat the proliferation of labels that engage in greenwashing. They also drew on lessons learned from previous experiments with environmental labelling in other sectors, such as Planet Score, to understand the need to supplement impact calculations from product life-cycle analysis (LCA).

The choices made in developing this methodology have made it possible to :

  • Develop a cross-functional approach to different categories of finished products, from cosmetics to family health products,
  • Develop a method adapted to all sizes of company, from the smallest to the largest international group, covering both environmental and social issues,
  • Base the method on benchmarks, labels and standards, enabling companies to capitalize on the efforts they have already made and the labels and certifications they have obtained, 
  • Take into account current and forthcoming French and European legislation on eco-design, the circular economy and environmental labelling, 
  • Co-construct a methodology with all players in the value chain, 
  • Find the best compromise between life cycle assessment (LCA) and environmental and social indicators, 
  • Fully integrate biodiversity issues, 
  • Take into account the specificity of natural and organic products
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