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New premium label papers made from recycled materials and alternative fibers

Avery Dennison today launched four label papers made from recycled pulp and alternative fibers, aimed at the premium packaging segment, including wines and spirits, craft beverages, gourmet foods, beauty products and fragrances.

Available in the Europe, Middle East and North Africa region, this launch comes at a time when industry regulations, corporate environmental policies and consumer demand are contributing to a growing need for sustainable labeling and packaging solutions. The new range comprises three new papers made from 100 % recycled fibers and one made from hemp fibers:

  • Fasson rPaper Black FSC 100% recycled (50% PCW and 50% PIW) is a black, solution-dyed, uncoated paper designed to provide a visually striking label for a variety of applications. Its black color guarantees a consistent, high-quality appearance, avoiding white edges or revealing the whiteness of the back of wine bottles. This paper eliminates bleeding problems in ice buckets and offers excellent printability and compatibility with embellishments.
  • Fasson rMartelé Black FSC 100 % recycled (50 % PCW and 50 % PIW) is an uncoated matte paper with a distinctive "hammered" tactile embossed finish. It matches the non-recycled Martelé Black in the current portfolio, enabling seamless integration into existing labeling solutions. Like rPaper Black, this paper also eliminates the problem of black ink bleeding into ice buckets and, being pulp-colored, guarantees a sophisticated, clean appearance by avoiding the unpleasant problem of white label edges and backs.
  • Fasson rMartelé Blanc FSC 100% recycled (50% PCW and 50% PIW) is also an uncoated matte paper with the same tactile embossed "hammered" finish as rMartelé Black. This specific product will be available later this year, and matches the non-recycled Martele Blanc in the current range, allowing it to be integrated effortlessly into existing wine and other high-end product ranges. In addition, it offers excellent printability with all standard printing methods and embellishment techniques.

New high-end labeling possibilities for hemp fibers

Fasson® Hemp 50% FSC® paper offers a natural, voluminous feel with its uncoated, matt white surface - perfect for high-end organic products. It offers a sustainable alternative to traditional wood pulp-based papers and uses 50 % hemp fibers sourced from France and Germany and harvested up to seven times a year. Its high grammage makes it ideal for labels with embossed or raised details.

"By incorporating these sustainable options, our Sustainable ADvantage portfolio helps brands reduce their environmental footprint and move towards a more sustainable and circular economy, explains Vladimir Tyulpin, Premium Solutions Marketing Manager at Avery Dennison. These solutions are particularly beneficial for industries such as wine, spirits, craft beverages, gastronomy, beauty and fragrances, where brand differentiation and sustainability are paramount."

With a wide selection of recycled front ends, rPLUS (an established and proven technology designed to solve ice bucket problems for white and sparkling wines), and rPET liner construction, as well as the AD Circular liner recycling program and use of the Carbon Trust Footprinting reporting tool, Avery Dennison enables companies to make informed decisions and accurately measure product impact.

L'Oréal and Bakar Labs (UC Berkeley) innovate in cosmetics development and testing

L'Oréal has announced a partnership with Bakar Labs, the pioneering biotechnology incubator at the University of California (UC) Berkeley. This collaboration opens up new opportunities for start-ups at the Bakar Labs incubator, giving them free access to L'Oréal's 3D reconstructed skin models.

This partnership will enable the development of the next generation of beauty products, drawing on L'Oréal's advanced microbiome expertise, Bakar Labs' biotechnological expertise and innovative biological technologies. This forward-looking collaboration aims to redefine the landscape of the beauty industry by creating innovations that meet individual needs, improve skin health and treat specific skin problems with ever more effective and innovative solutions.

"L'Oréal has been pioneering 3D reconstructed skin for over 25 years, offering new solutions for a world without animal testing. Today, we are pleased to make L'Oréal's proprietary deskintech platform available to UC Berkeley's Bakar Labs to support its ecosystem of best-in-class startups in their quest for new discoveries. Through fully integrated production, we will provide Bakar's startups with everything they need to achieve their goals", commented Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology.

Located in the Bakar BioEnginuity Hub on the UC Berkeley campus, Bakar Labs covers more than 3,700 m2 of laboratory and office space for up to 50 start-ups. Its highly diversified community includes companies active in therapeutics, diagnostics, agricultural technologies and the food tech.

"We are delighted to be partnering with L'Oréal, which enables us to benefit from its vast experience in microbiome research and advanced biological technologies.said David Schaffer, professor at UC Berkeley and director of Bakar Labs. This collaboration will enable the companies in our incubator to benefit from valuable resources and knowledge, and to work alongside L'Oréal to advance the field of biotechnology in the pharmaceutical and beauty sectors."

A range of dermo-cosmetic hygiene and care products for men's intimate areas

More and more men are waxing all or part of their intimate areas. This is the background to High Lab Beauty's Che[rr]ies range.

Vincent Bailly, urological surgeon, and Philippe Humbert, former head of the Dermatology Department at Besançon University Hospital, specializing in internal medicine and dermatology, noticed that many of their patients were cutting and infecting their private parts while trying to shave them. They spoke to cosmetics experts Tony Jaillot and Flavien Profumo. Together, they decided to find a solution to this problem.

Che[rr]ies is a new range of hygiene and dermo-cosmetic care products for men's intimate areas. 

A depilatory cream

Fragrance- and paraben-free, Cherries intimate depilatory cream is applied by hand to the areas to be depilated, scrotum and gluteal cleft, avoiding the mucous membranes of the glans penis and foreskin. After 10 minutes, dissolved hairs can be removed with a damp glove. The skin is smooth and visibly softer than after shaving, and less traumatized than with depilatory wax. Regrowth is natural and itch-free. Its formula, based on 88 % ingredients of natural origin, also contains two essential components: potassium thioglycolate, the most effective depilatory active ingredient to date for dissolving hair at the root, and the Skin Preserve System, a latest-generation silicone elastomer combined with high-tolerance natural shea butter which, while allowing the skin to breathe, forms a protective barrier, preventing the depilatory active ingredient from coming into direct contact with the epidermis.

A post-depilation care cream

Applied about ten minutes after depilation, Cherries intimate post-depilation care cream also provides freshness, hydration and softness. Its fragrance- and paraben-free formula, based on 95 % of natural-origin ingredients, also cleanses, soothes, purifies and delays hair regrowth.

Hyaluronic acid, moisturizing and anti-aging, helps maintain water on the skin's surface. Yellow nutsedge oil, nourishing, healing and repairing, is traditionally used in Morocco for its anti-hair regrowth properties. Panthenol, soothing and healing, relieves itching and skin irritation. Lactic acid stimulates gentle exfoliation, cell renewal and collagen production for anti-aging and firming action. Nourishing and moisturizing oleic oil helps strengthen the skin barrier. And vitamin E is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

Pure Trade appoints Cyrille Ly as Director of Sustainable Development, CSR and Innovation 

With almost 30 years in business, 80 employees and sales of €87 million, Pure Trade is a recognized partner of luxury cosmetics and perfume brands, for whom it designs high-end primary and secondary packaging, luggage and promotional accessories, as well as textile articles.

Based in Bangkok, Cyrille Ly's mission is to formalize and deploy Pure Trade's CSR and innovation vision internally and externally, and to manage industrial partnerships in Southeast Asia.

Cyrille Ly has twenty years' experience in packaging development at L'Oréal Luxe, where he also had the opportunity to lead an environmental and social program. Present in Asia since 2019, he realized the disaster linked to the daily use of plastic and the lack of recycling channels for certain types of plastic. He has also observed employment discrimination at the expense of vulnerable populations.

"By joining the Pure Trade team, which is involved upstream in the value and production chain, I can accomplish my mission in close collaboration with our partner factories on these criteria: reducing the use of virgin plastic and improving the local recycling process, supporting and educating the local and vulnerable populations involved in our supply chains, in favor of their well-being and autonomy. Beyond performance and KPIs, I want to steer our CSR approach with sincerity and humanity."says Cyrille Ly.

"I have always been committed to implementing a rigorous CSR policy for the Group, out of conviction and in line with my social and ethical values, says Stefane Ladous, President of Pure Trade. Until then, we had relied on the EcoVadis system with the help of an external consultant, in addition to participating in humanitarian and environmental projects with partner NGOs. Our CSR policy has grown to such an extent that it deserves to be managed internally. It is intimately linked to sustainable development and innovation, and beyond my convictions, it has a strategic dimension. Cyrille Ly's mission is therefore to formalize the vision and then deploy it with employees and industrial partners as a priority".

Two new simplified Alfa Laval valves for the market

Alfa Laval has unveiled two new hygienic valves to join its range of double flap hygienic valves: Alfa Laval Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process.

These two innovative valves offer manufacturers a cost-effective way to improve product integrity while enhancing process efficiency and sustainability.

Proven performance, designed for a specific purpose

These two new products have been designed with a specific purpose in mind, and are based on proven performance. The Unique Mixproof CIP valve is a double poppet valve that safely and efficiently manages the flow of cleaning agents during cleaning-in-place (CIP). The Unique Mixproof Process valve, a compact double flap valve, is configurable and available in different sizes to meet manufacturers' basic hygienic processing requirements. Both models are capable of simultaneously conveying two different fluids without the risk of cross-contamination, contributing to greater availability and lower total cost of ownership.

"These new Unique Mixproof valves guarantee product safety, process flexibility, simple maintenance and opportunities to save water and CIP fluids."says Anders M. Lyhne, Product Portfolio Manager at Alfa Laval.

Reliable, cost-effective product protection

Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process systems provide manufacturers with cost-effective product safety. Alfa Laval's double-valve technology keeps fluids separate, ensuring efficient cleaning and complete protection against the intrusion of harmful micro-organisms. Thanks to a perfectly balanced design, the valves can easily withstand high pressure without the risk of pressure shock. They are certified to FDA, 3A and other recognized standards.

Greater process flexibility

Improve the reliability and flexibility of manufacturing processes with proven valve technology that meets specific production requirements. Modular in design and available in types and sizes to suit different applications, Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process valves help manufacturers adapt to changing process requirements. Using these valves in combination with Alfa Laval ThinkTop control units offers greater flexibility and process control.

Simplified maintenance

Built on Alfa Laval's Unique SSV and Mixproof platforms, these hygienic top-loading double flap valves minimize the risk of unplanned downtime, while minimizing the time and resources spent on routine maintenance. Proven sealing technology with defined compression extends service intervals, while a maintenance-free actuator with no adjustable components maximizes uptime and minimizes total cost of ownership.

Enhanced durability

Combined with Alfa Laval's ThinkTop system, these new Unique Mixproof valves eliminate unnecessary product losses while saving up to 90 % on water and CIP fluids. Reduced use of CIP fluids contributes to lower total cost of ownership while minimizing environmental impact in process industries. Good for people, good for business and good for the planet.

Symrise opens a new center of expertise in the Paris region

Flavor and fragrance specialist Symrise has inaugurated a new center of expertise dedicated to beauty and home care products at its Clichy site near Paris.

On a 300 m2The new site includes a cosmetics application laboratory for active ingredients and botanicals, an application laboratory for homecare ingredients, and a microbiology laboratory. 

The opening of the Beauty & Home Care center of expertise strengthens Symrise's presence in Europe, as well as the Symrise Clichy site. It draws on an expanded team of scientific and technical experts in microbiology, cosmetics and home care.

This new research facility is part of Symrise's global network of research centers, including the recently expanded Cosmetic Application Laboratory at the company's headquarters in Holzminden, Germany, dedicated to the formulation of actives, botanicals, colors, functionalities, skin protection products and UV filters.

"These investments reflect the continued growth of cosmetic ingredients and the strong market demand to continue providing modern solutions and excellent service to customers in the region."says Timothy Kenny, President of Cosmetic Ingredients at Symrise.

Symrise has invested 1.5 million euros in this new center of expertise.

Fifteen iconic dermo-cosmetic products to refill at the pharmacy

The "Pharma-Recharge" consortium, comprising Expanscience, Garancia, La Rosée Cosmétiques, Bioderma (Naos) and Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, has decided to join forces to reduce the environmental impact of cosmetics packaging. 

In this context of environmental transition, dermocosmetics and pharmaceuticals must innovate to meet the expectations of the 63 % French consumers who want to buy in bulk the products they usually buy packaged.1.

Aware of the urgency and already committed to eco-responsible initiatives, the brands A-Derma (Pierre Fabre), Bioderma (NAOS), Ducray (Pierre Fabre), Eluday (Pierre Fabre), Garancia, Klorane (Pierre Fabre), La Rosée and Mustela (Laboratoires Expanscience), have decided to anticipate and join forces to offer consumers a refill point which, initially, will be tested in a Paris pharmacy (Pharmacie Carré Opéra de la Chaussée d'Antin), before rolling out the experiment to other outlets. 

This virtuous approach has been created by cooperating with players in the French recycling ecosystem, in a spirit of co-construction and iteration. The consortium was supported by experts in the circular economy and by (Re)set, a consulting firm dedicated to environmental transition.

In concrete terms, it's a joint piece of furniture for 15 iconic everyday products. To design it, the consortium chose Mobil Wood, a company specializing in eco-designed furniture made from French wood, for the cabinet structure, and Jean Bouteille, a pioneering impact company in the implementation of bulk and reuse solutions, for the fountains. The consortium also selected a common 500 ml glass bottle for the experiment, compatible with the majority of products.

The user path is simple: the consumer follows the steps in the order module, attaches the bottle proposed for this experiment to the fountain of the product of their choice, a predefined dose is poured automatically, and all they have to do is pick up their bottle and come back next time to refill it. 

Each brand is free to set its own commercial terms with the pharmacy, and the pharmacy is free to set its own resale price.

The experiment is being conducted in compliance with pharmacy health standards and dermo-cosmetic product quality requirements (stop drop, no contact with formula, traceability, etc.). Over the next few months, the experiment will be extended to other regional pharmacies, based on feedback from the pilot pharmacy. If necessary, it will be further developed and, above all, made permanent.

1 Source: Réseau Vrac and Nielsen Panel Views, assessment of the bulk market in 2020, survey of 9,900 households. 

Kering takes over Creed

Kering Beauté announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire 100 % of Creed (€250 million sales 2023) from funds controlled by BlackRock Long Term Private Capital Europe and Javier Ferrán, the company's current president.

Founded in 1760 by James Henry Creed, the House of Creed is an independent player in the buoyant haute parfumerie market, with distinctive fragrance collections that are both timeless and sophisticated, including the iconic Aventus. Created as a couture house for the royal families of Europe, it later became a house of "haute parfumerie". Creed's rich family heritage is a testament to its unique creativity. Olivier Creed and his son Erwin continue this tradition today.

Through its "Fragrance for the Future" program, the company ensures that all its fragrances, developed using artisanal practices and techniques handed down from generation to generation, are sustainably produced in its laboratory in Fontainebleau, near Paris.

This acquisition represents a major step forward for Kering Beauté. Complementing its portfolio of luxury houses, it immediately gives Kering Beauté substantial scale, an attractive financial profile and a platform to support the future development of other Kering Beauté fragrances, thanks in particular to Creed's worldwide distribution network (36 boutiques and 1,400 points of sale). Creed has achieved double-digit growth in recent years, with remarkable profitability and very high Ebitda margins, while preserving the quality of its products and image.

While preserving the House's heritage and exclusive positioning, Kering Beauté will strive to unleash its full potential, both geographically and in terms of distribution and product categories, in particular by accelerating Creed's development in China and the Middle East. Travel Retailand continuing its expansion into women's fragrances, body care and home care products.  

The Fine Fragrances segment benefits from very solid market dynamics, marked by double-digit growth, high profitability and consistent performance, giving it great resilience over the long term. Beauty is a natural extension of Kering's luxury universe, and the Group is confident in the long-term value-creation potential of this strategic market segment for the Group and its Houses.

The cash transaction is expected to close in the second half of 2023, subject to approval by the relevant competition authorities. 

François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering, declared: " The acquisition of Creed, which is Kering Beauté's first strategic initiative, demonstrates our ambition to build a solid position for the Group in the most exclusive segment of this category. I am delighted that our assets and values are now united around this entrepreneurial family spirit and shared taste for excellence to accelerate our development in beauty, and I am delighted to see Creed join Kering's Luxury Houses. "

Jean-François Palus, Chief Operating Officer of Kering, commented: " Synonymous with exclusivity and creativity, the House of Creed is recognized as one of the world leaders in haute parfumerie, and this acquisition will support and amplify our development in this segment. It marks a milestone in the development of Kering Beauté, while we are more convinced than ever of the great potential of our brands in this category. "

Raffaella Cornaggia, General Manager of Kering Beauté, added: " Creed's positioning in the fine fragrance market is unique, and this transaction presents clear fundamentals and mutual benefits in terms of expertise, distribution network and geographic presence. We look forward to working with CEO Sarah Rotheram and her passionate team to continue building Creed's success worldwide. "


TNT creates the new Loubimar miniature for Louboutin

The Spanish Puig Group commissioned TNT Group to create the 9 ml Loubimar miniature, echoing the 90 ml Loubimar light eau de parfum. This is the fourth miniature that TNT Group has designed for Louboutin Beauty's Loubiworld collection, of which there are 11, beautifully presented in a newly unveiled box.

The stylized cap evokes the marine world that inspired this eau de parfum with its citrus and saltwater notes. It features an urchin topped by an anchor and a mooring rope, and has been given a rose gold e-coating finish. A PP (polypropylene) insert holds it in place. This was a real challenge for TNT Group, given its small size.

TNT Group had already produced the three miniatures with orange-orange ecoating zamak covers from the Middle East collection, whose level of precision is just as impressive for such a small format. The beetle, snake and hawk, for example, are all depicted with a high level of detail. This 100 % recyclable creation celebrates the combination of luxury and sustainability, while retaining the essence of the House of Louboutin.

Solvay launches Naternal for regenerative beauty

Naternal is Solvay's new brand of biodegradable, bio-based polymers for eco-designed hair and skin care solutions.

Solvay, world specialist in biopolymers for cosmetics formulations, continues to move forward on the road to caring for people and the planet with the launch of Naternal.

This new responsible brand embodies regenerative beauty, which takes care of every stakeholder, from the planet to farming communities in the field, to brands and consumers.

"The launch of Naternal is a perfect illustration of Solvay's long-term commitment to sustainable growth.says Jean-Guy Le-Helloco, Vice President Home & Personal Care at Solvay. Naternal represents a new era in which it is possible to strike a balance between beauty care, the planet and fair treatment of growers".

Drawing on the power of nature and science, Naternal brings together biodegradable beauty care polymers, derived from guar gum or other natural raw materials, to pave the way for future innovations that meet consumer expectations and regulatory requirements. Naternal's range of ingredients is part of an eco-design approach that integrates product end-of-life management from the earliest stages of research, guaranteeing its development on the basis of both application and end-of-life performance.

According to Galder Cristobal, Director of Research and Innovation for Solvay's Home & Personal Care business, "the cosmetics industry is at the dawn of its transition to green chemistry, and one of the most pressing challenges is biodegradability. For Solvay's customers, our unwavering commitment to ecoresponsibility means they can create the next generations of biodegradable skin and hair care products with the confidence that they are taking into account the well-being of the consumer and the planet."

In the coming years, new solutions and new chemistries will emerge thanks to the commitment of Solvay's scientists and the Group's Renewable Materials and Biotechnology growth platform, dedicated to research and innovation on the use of renewable raw materials and biotechnology for the development of innovative, safe and sustainable solutions. To achieve this, Solvay is also investing in a world-class, multi-purpose microbiology laboratory. This will house state-of-the-art tools for analysis of biodegradation, human and environmental toxicity, enabling a safe and sustainable innovation process right from the design stage.

Solvay's commitment to eco-responsible beauty is at the heart of the Beauty for the Planet initiative, which aims to provide more sustainable ingredients for the benefit of consumers and the environment.

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