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Perfume plants in the spotlight

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site-industries-cosmetiques A pink rose with green leaves in the foreground.

In 2020, Lancôme acquired Domaine de la Rose, in Grasse. Today, this seven-hectare site is dedicated to the organic polyculture of a dozen varieties of perfume plants, including Centifolia rose, tuberose, jasmine and iris.

The estate will open its doors to the public for the next Heritage Days, on September 16 and 17, 2023.

"The Domaine de la Rose is a place for sharing, preserving and celebrating natural and cultural know-how related to perfume.says Lancôme.

A guided tour will reveal the history of the estate - where perfume plants are grown using traditional polyculture methods - an educational distillery and the "Maison Rose", an eco-designed building with original architecture housing a perfume organ.

As owner, bio-agriculturalist, producer and perfumer, Lancôme has demonstrated its attachment to Grasse with this estate.

Lubrizol offers a new rheology modifier

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's hand holds a bottle of Lubrizol cream.

Carbopol SC-800 is part of Lubrizol's Carbopol family of polymers.

Indicated for gentle, sulfate-free cleansing formulations, this polymer is a rheology modifier for gentle, sulfate-free formulations, shower gels, shampoos and facial cleansers. 

"Carbopol SC-800 polymer shows the best thickening efficiency, clarity and suspension properties in studies comparing it to other hydrophobic modified polymers. This allows formulators to create unique aesthetics in their skin cleansing formulas, including the suspension of natural pearls, scrubs and other cleansing elements."says Lubrizol Life Science Beauty.

According to the company, studies on foam generation have also shown that the polymer has no negative impact on foam quality, either in terms of the volume of foam generated or its morphology.

Global Bioenergies revises its ambitions upwards

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site-industries-cosmetiques Two tanks displaying the "global bioenergies" logo in a draft car setting.

Global Bioenergies, a specialist in the conversion of plant resources into chemical compounds used in many cutting-edge fields such as cosmetics and energy, has announced an upward revision of its industrial ambitions and has decided to adjust its roadmap to focus from now on a project for a plant with greater production capacity than the ViaViridia plant, in order to meet the expectations of its industrial, commercial and financial contacts. 

Sized to produce 10,000 tonnes of isobutene and derivatives per year (compared with 2,000 tonnes in the previous project), the plant will target the cosmetics market and then the sustainable aviation fuel market, for which Global Bioenergies has just obtained ASTM certification.

Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies, comments: " We have delivered the first orders, and our first-half sales total 2.4 million euros. Guided by the current trend towards accelerated renewables, the strong market pull in this area, and technical advances in our direct process, we are modifying our roadmap. The commercial activities of the Pomacle unit, which certainly generate sales but have a low associated margin, are no longer a priority. We are now concentrating all our efforts on the construction of this larger plant, scheduled to come on stream at the end of 2027. At the same time, we are already starting to project our technology in other geographies and with other raw materials with international industrial groups."

For L'Oréal, the largest shareholder in Global Bioenergies via its investment fund Bold (Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development), this high-capacity plant project reflects the environmental challenges and commitments made as part of its L'Oréal for the Future program. 

Ana Kljuic, Vice President R&I L'Oréal for the Future & Green Science adds: "Our commitment by 2030 is to reach 95 % of bio-sourced ingredients, derived from abundant minerals or circular processes in our formulas. This new ambition for Global Bioenergies will make bio-sourced isobutene derivatives accessible at competitive prices to the cosmetics markets and, beyond that, enable everyone to play an active part in the environmental transition."

Global Bioenergies will publish a schedule of plant design and construction milestones by the end of fiscal 2023.

Biolie announces Biolime, an upcycled lime extract 

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site-industries-cosmetiques A recycled Biolime fruit with water droplets on it, as Biolie promotes their lime extract.

Thanks to its patented zero-waste enzymatic extraction process, Biolie offers Biolime, a Cosmos-certified aqueous extract of lime that acts like a shield to protect skin cells exposed to pollution while boosting their metabolism.

"This ingredient helps fight urban pollution on the skin. At 1%, Biolime fights 100 % of DNA damage and stimulates ATP production of 30 %."says Biolie.

A video shows how to formulate a refreshing anti-pollution gel:

YouTube video

Other ingredients are presented in this video:

  • Pyr'O, a Cosmos-certified upcycled pear extract, is a sustainable alternative to water in formulations. According to Biolie, tests have shown that its antioxidant power is comparable to that of vitamin C, and that it can help combat skin ageing!
  • Hydroblue, a Cosmos-approved extract obtained from spirulina and giving a natural blue color to water-based formulations or emulsions.

Cellcosmet: a new generation of cellular skincare, a subsidiary in the United States 

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site-industries-cosmetiques A set of cosmetic products on a red background with a touch of auto scramble.
Cellcosmet Gen 2.0 Product Offerings. Products pictured left to right include: Ultra Vital, Sensitive, Ultra Vital Light, Cellular Eye Contour Cream, and UltraCell Intensive.

Cellap Laboratoire, home of the Swiss luxury brands Cellcosmet and Cellmen, is expanding into the United States with the establishment of a Cellap Laboratory Americas based in New York.

"The main ambition of Cellcosmet's founder was to create the most effective skin care products to revitalize the skin with the highest standards of quality. Our philosophy is based on innovation, quality, product safety, Swissness and results. By introducing Cellcosmet in the United States, our aim was to continue bringing this level of excellence to new consumers. We aim to expand our presence in the luxury skincare market through e-commerce, high-end spas, hotels, clinics and high-end department stores. At Cellcosmet, we value our community and are delighted to bring the quintessence of Swiss cosmetic science to the United States."explains Managing Director Tancrède Amacker.

Last year, Cellcosmet's scientific teams introduced a progressive alliance of two technologies: cell extracts and microbiome science. With this innovation as a catalyst, Cellcosmet introduced optimized formulations of its cellular skincare lines for men and women, containing the next generation (Gen 2.0) of its signature ingredient, CytoPep Cellular Extracts, and a new postbiotic complex. Cellcosmet continues to work on its formulas to revitalize the skin, minimize the visible traces left by time, and now protect and preserve the skin's microbiome. 

"While DNA is the code of life, proteins and peptides are the mechanism of life. Infused with multiple peptides and proteins, and rich in collagen and other skin structural proteins, CytoPep cellular extracts are the lifeblood behind skin health and rejuvenation. CytoPep cellular extracts help stimulate energy metabolism and increase cellular energy in skin cells, particularly mitochondria, to improve skin visibility and health through natural skin cell renewal and strengthen skin barrier function. This new generation of products combined with Postbiotics Complex and CytoPep cellular extracts, which we have developed to preserve the balance and diversity of the cutaneous microbiota, is proven to visibly optimize skin revitalization."explains Jérémie Soeur, Chief Science Officer.

Postbiotics Complex is made up of three ferments of marine origin which, when added to the cellular skincare formula, help to preserve and enhance skin quality. The first ferment, composed of complex molecules, acts as a protective film, shielding the skin from blue light, improving elasticity and maintaining the skin's barrier function. The other two ferments are effective in visibly lifting and firming the skin, revealing the complexion's true radiance. They also help the skin defend itself against certain environmental stress factors.

Two other rigorously selected ingredients, OleoComplex and HydraProtect Film Complex, are contained in the new Cellcosmet Gen 2.0 formulas. These additions help the skin maintain optimal hydration for a skin barrier function that effectively protects the face against the aggressive factors of daily life, including pollution and stress.

As part of this new era, Cellcosmet also offers a new sensorial experience by enhancing the texture and fragrance of its cellular skin creams. The fast-penetrating, non-greasy formulas are silky to the touch and leave skin incredibly soft. The citrus fragrance is enhanced by floral and musky notes, for a light, fresh and elegant scent on the skin.

Coty renews its licensing partnership with Adidas

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A woman jogs along a sidewalk, past a draft car.

American perfume and cosmetics giant Coty announces that it has renewed its licensing agreement with Adidas.

Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty, said: "I am delighted that we have signed a new agreement as part of our long-standing partnership with Adidas, the global premium sports brand. Adidas is perfectly positioned to capitalize on the new wellness and athleisure beauty trend among today's consumers. Over the past few months, we have successfully increased the value of Adidas body care, offering products focused on enhancing credibility in sports and skincare. With the launch of the Adidas Active Skin and Mind range, we are positioning Adidas as a premium body care line with premium ingredients and sustainable packaging. Consumers have responded very positively to this launch, and we look forward to building on this momentum with innovations and new ranges to drive growth in new and existing markets in the future."

The partnership between Adidas and Coty has focused on the intersection of personal care, wellness, sport and sporting lifestyle, with research and innovation in areas such as the impact of fragrance on sporting performance. The ambition to remain at the forefront of personal care continues with the new Active Skin & Mind range and its use of "superior" active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid complex, and more sustainable sulfate-free formulas to enhance performance.

Coty and Adidas' shared commitment to sustainable development remains central to their extended agreement, as demonstrated by the development of the Active Skin & Mind range.

Building on the successful launch of the Active Skin & Mind range in Europe, Coty is developing the brand in China. Active Skin & Mind has partnered with Chinese snowboarding gold medalist Su Yiming as a brand ambassador.

Pure Trade follows Tommy Hilfiger Fragrances' corporate codes for its corporate and summer collections

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A Tommy Hilfiger towel in the desert serves as a rough draft.

Pure Trade is a recognized partner of luxury cosmetics and perfume brands, for which it designs high-end primary and secondary packaging, luggage and promotional accessories, as well as textile articles.

Produced by Pure Trade, the Tommy Hilfiger Fragrances collection of luggage and accessories follows the brand's corporate line while encouraging relaxation. It includes a backpack, a card holder and a beach towel, all three in navy RPET, as well as a tote bag and a clutch in a mix of recycled cotton and jute, in a natural tone. The color codes are cleverly materialized by the zipper of the backpack, the compartments of the card holder and the stripes of the beach towel, in red and white, as well as by the blue and red bias of the tote and pouch, whose zipper is embellished by a removable metal puller with a tricolor lace. The logo is screen-printed in 3 colors.

Cosmetic 360: cleantech in the spotlight

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A group of people stand in front of a kiosk, surrounded by draft posters.

Cosmetic 360, the international trade show for innovation in the perfume and cosmetics industry, will be held in Paris, at the Carrousel du Louvre, on October 18 and 19, 2023.

The theme of this 9th edition will be "cleantech", a group of "clean technologies" whose role is to provide a better response to today's challenges in terms of ecology and the fight against global warming: renewable energies, water cycles, biomaterials, decarbonization, the circular economy, recycling, and so on.

Improving on existing techniques, or even replacing them, cleantech's distinctive feature is that it generates innovations, particularly in industry, with added environmental value, while ensuring the competitiveness of companies.

"Our sector is taking a major turn for the better in line with the cleantech sector, which is experiencing a real acceleration in the face of environmental challenges. Once again this year, Cosmetic 360 will open up innovative and responsible avenues for the cosmetics industry, stresses Franckie Béchereau, Director of Cosmetic 360. Chis theme corresponds not only to the values of the industry, but also to those of our show.

What's new?

- A program of conferences, with committed and renowned experts, dedicated to advances in clean technologies,

- A new expert trail will identify exhibitors presenting cleantech solutions,

- A "cleantech Innovation center" with cutting-edge expertise in green energies and decarbonization (supported by the Idec Invest Innovation Group investment fund).

To broaden the scope of innovative technologies, Cosmetic 360 - supported by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster - will also feature an area dedicated to deep tech: AI, blockchain, RFID, additive manufacturing, contactless screens. All stages, from product creation to distribution, manufacturing and marketing, will be addressed through these different technologies proposed by Systematic-Paris-Région.

Unmissable events 

Visitors will be invited to explore the future of the industry through a wide range of forward-looking activities on the stands of Chanel, L'Oréal, LVMH and Pharma&Beauty Group, or in the zones set up by Beauty Tech Chartres, Greentech, CNRS and Ibita.

Cosmetic 360 2023, in brief

  • 250 French and international exhibitors, including 36 start-ups
  • 23 countries represented: Belgium, China, Comoros, Denmark, France, Gabon, Germany, Greece, Israel, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Peru, Poland, Portugal, South Korea, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States of America.
  • Regional pavilions: Centre-Val de Loire, Ile-de-France, Normandie, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, Guyane and Martinique.

Only a few days left to apply for the Open innovation service

The Open Innovation service is aimed at researchers and innovators, offering them the opportunity to present their technology, whatever its level of maturity, and to exchange ideas with business experts from leading companies in the cosmetics industry.

The innovations presented can concern the entire cosmetics value chain: raw materials, measurement, testing, packaging, materials, formulation, industrialization, finished products, logistics, retail, etc.

Each selected project will receive a proposal for an exchange with technical experts from Chanel, L'Oréal, LVMH Recherche, and Pharma & Beauty Group during the show.

Applications must be submitted by August 31, 2023: https://www.cosmetic-360.com/fr/pages/open-innovation-137.html

Since 2015, more than 1,400 projects from 35 different countries have been submitted, with over 600 meetings organized. Every year, several major companies in the industry get involved in this operation.

Photo : © Studio NathSam

Roval Cosmétiques: a full-service offering, eco-responsible packaging solutions

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A factory machine automatically produces lipsticks.

Roval Cosmétiques, a company in the Anjac Health & Beauty group, has been a committed industrial partner specializing in hygiene and skincare solutions for all for over 40 years, and has been committed for several years to offering more responsible and sustainable solutions. 

A responsible packaging approach 

In response to consumer expectations and the cosmetics industry's desire to move towards more sustainable packaging, Roval Cosmétiques offers its customers a full-service package incorporating "Green Packaging" solutions.

At its Flers site in France, Roval Cosmétiques has a blow-molding plant that designs and manufactures over 40 million bottles for the hygiene and care product categories. The company offers a catalog of exclusive Roval Cosmétiques standard shapes, as well as customized developments in PE, recycled PE, PET or recycled PET. It has also invested heavily in PET in 2023, in order to extend its catalog to new categories.

In parallel with its in-house packaging blow-moulding unit, Roval Cosmétiques has taken up the challenge of refills and is investing in its packaging lines to offer its customers these new industrial solutions:

- Single-material Doypack and Berlingot: 100% PE, 100% recyclables,

- Bulk solution with pockets for refilling the point-of-sale dispenser - in partnership with Jean Bouteille - or Bag in Box (BIB) format in 3L, 5L or 10L sold as a maxi refill for the end consumer.

With its full range of packaging products (both those manufactured on its site and those sourced externally), Roval Cosmétiques has for several years been committed to a CSR approach based on three areas of eco-design:

1. Reduce :

  • The factory-integrated packaging unit reduces the carbon footprint ("wall to wall" = no transport of bottles before filling),
  • Integration of rPE and rPET technologies,
  • Ongoing work on lighter bottles

2. Reuse :

  • Design of reusable bottles, including a full-service refill offer (Doypack + Berlingot + Vrac),
  • Reuse and recycling of plastic waste

3. Recycling :

  • 100% of Made in Roval Cosmétiques bottles are 100% recyclable (plastics, colorants...) with the ambition of being 100% rPE and rPET,
  • Promote single-material developments and avoid disruptive finishing. G

Thanks to the Spice tool, an independent packaging eco-design assessment platform recognized by the industry and co-founded by L'Oréal & Quantis, which aims to improve the environmental performance of the entire packaging value chain, Roval Cosmétiques measures the impact of its packaging by carrying out packaging life-cycle analyses, and guides its customers towards the most virtuous options.

Full-service solutions for reduced environmental impact, thanks to formula innovation

In addition to its "Green packaging" offer, Roval Cosmétiques prioritizes its R&D activity on the development of eco-responsible formulas with high performance in terms of efficacy, sensoriality and practicality for everyone (adults, children, families). 

Roval Cosmétiques offers an innovative range of products to meet market demands:

  • Shower shoT: a 100ml dose to be diluted in 400ml of water to obtain a 500ml shower gel (to encourage re-use of the original bottle), 
  • Concentrated shower gel: a formula up to four times more concentrated* (less water and less packaging weight; up to four times smaller for the same number of uses).
  • Lait de douche nomade: a cleansing formula that doesn't require water or rinsing. What's more, it contains an anti-odour agent and an encapsulated fragrance for long-lasting action,
  • Shower spray: fun for kids, practical for parents and, above all, "anti-gaspi". Just spray on each area and soap up (no overdosing),
  • concentrated hair mask: this formula, with a reduced ingredient list and less water than a classic formula, can be used rinsed or leave-on. Thanks to its enriched composition, a mini-dose is enough to intensely nourish the whole head of hair.

With the support of the Anjac group and its "Anjac Positive Impact" tool, Roval Cosmétiques evaluates and challenges the eco-responsibility of its innovations.

Eco-designed packaging is combined with innovative formulas to minimize the environmental impact of our products.

Roval Cosmétiques is thus part of the Group's global, proactive CSR approach, with the primary objective of ensuring the effectiveness and sensorial experience of its products.

*to be calculated according to the reference shower gel

LVMH group companies support Cristal Union farmers in their agro-ecological transition

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A draft factory in a field.

Parfums Christian Dior, Givenchy Parfums and Kenzo Parfums, members of the LVMH group, have announced their strategic collaboration with the Cristal Union agricultural cooperative to improve agricultural practices in the beet sector, the source of the alcohol used in their perfumes.

This year, the three companies are financing a project to support the agroecological transition of 380 hectares of beet crops in the Grand Est region, to produce the equivalent of 45 % of their alcohol needs*.

This project is based on the Indice de régénération, a tool developed and verified by the association "Pour une agriculture du vivant", to assess the agroecological score of farms and support farmers in their progress.

"This collaboration marks an important milestone on the Life 360 program's path towards the regeneration of 5 million hectares of ecosystems. Sugar beet plays a key role in the supply chain of the LVMH Beauty business group. Implementing new, virtuous production models in this sector represents a key step on the road to fulfilling our commitments.says Hélène Valade, LVMH's Director of Environmental Development.

In addition, for a period of five years, LVMH is financing a research and development program with Cristal Union on 12 farms to test new agronomic practices aimed in particular at :

  • Reducing nitrogen inputs to beet crops by optimizing plant cover crops.
  • Limit the use of mineral fertilizers by increasing the use of organic matter.

"At Cristal Union, we place great importance on agronomic R&D and tailor-made support for our cooperative members as they develop their farming practices. Our collaboration with LVMH, in this new project dedicated to the development of agroecology techniques, is part of this approach".says Bruno Labilloy, Cristal Union's Agricultural Director.

As part of these trials, the three houses will be working with Genesis, selected by the LVMH start-up house and awarded a prize at VivaTech for its tool for measuring soil health and quality. Genesis will be in charge of collecting precise, geolocalized information on soils on a regular basis, in order to assess the impact of agricultural practices on their health and contribution to ecosystem functions.

* Mass balance approach

Cristal Union, at a glance

The Cristal Union group is one of Europe's leading producers of sugar and alcohol. It operates mainly in France, and generates a significant proportion of its sales abroad. It employs over 2,000 people at group level and 9,000 beet-growing cooperators. Its organization and operations are based on the cooperative model.

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