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Cosmetic 360 launches its Open Innovation 2023

The Open Innov service enables you to present an innovation project and exchange ideas with business experts from leading companies in the cosmetics industry.

These major companies have an open innovation policy, and are keen to develop innovation in the industry by making their expertise available to project developers.

Whether you're a public-sector researcher, an innovative project owner, a start-up, VSE, SME or ETI, This service enables you to present your innovations at all levels of maturity. By putting you in touch with one another, you can gauge interest in the subject, find out what's at stake for your company, set up a collaboration, work on direct implementation, develop your sales, and more.

The innovations presented can concern the entire cosmetics value chain: raw materials, measurement, testing, packaging, materials, formulation, industrialization, finished products, logistics, retail, etc.

Since 2015, over 1,400 projects have been submitted from 35 different countries, over 600 meetings have been organized. 

Details from Amandine Goubert, Cosmetic Valley R&I Manager

Pettenon Cosmetics selects Centric PLM to streamline product development 

Italian cosmetics brand Pettenon Cosmetics partners with Centric Software to fluidifier its collaboration, increase productivity and reduce time-to-market.

Italian group Pettenon Cosmetics Spa SB has selected Centric Software's Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solution. 

Centric Software offre innovative business solutions designed for the planification, design, development, procurement and distribution of products - apparel, footwear, sports equipment, furniture, decorative accessories, beauty products, food and beverages, luxury goods... - capable of enabling companies to achieve their strategic and operational digital transformation objectives.

For over 70 years, Pettenon Cosmetics Spa SB has been developing high-end professional hair care products for the Italian and international markets. The group offers premium products, tailored to the specific needs of local markets and suitable for different hair types and natures. Pettenon Cosmetics has a sales network deployed in 91 countries, and every day manufactures some 170,000 references - shampoos, masks, coiffage care, hydrogen peroxide and other technical products.

Pettenon Cosmetics' ambition to make beauty sublime is rooted in an ethical and sustainable approach, expressed through cosmetic products designed to beautify their users. In 2021, Pettenon Cosmetics' commitment to responsible, sustainable and transparent actions was recognized by the Italian State, which awarded it the qualification of a company of general interest.

From the outset, Pettenon Cosmetics has owed its success to its commitment to three strategic pillars: innovation, digital transformation and sustainable development. In 2022, Pettenon Cosmetics has identified the need for a new digital solution to reinforce its competitive edge and the strength of the guiding pillars supporting its commitments.

"Teams were wasting precious time entering data by hand, opening the door to human error, says Giulio Pistolato, IT Manager at Pettenon Cosmetics SPA SB. We seized the opportunity to streamline our data and automate tasks with the aim of offloading our teams, improving our productivity and reducing our costs."

Following an intense process of analysis and evaluation of the different solutions on the market, Pettenon Cosmetics selected Centric PLM, Centric's PLM solution for cosmetics, skincare and fragrances afin to support its digital transformation objectives.

"We chose Centric PLM because it was able to meet all our needs, and because it's one of the best solutions in the industry, justifie Giulio Pistolato. The PLM repository common to all data and its ability to increase efficiency, reduce the risk of error and guarantee our compliance with safety and environmental standards will ultimately contribute to boosting the quality of our products and reducing our time-to-market."

Pettenon Cosmetics plans to deploy Centric PLM in several departments, including R&D, purchasing, logistics and IT. The PLM platform will host over fifty new product development projects. "Thanks to Centric PLM, we expect to be able to significantly consolidate our product development, adds Giulio Pistolato. With automation, we expect to increase productivity, reduce costs and improve product quality - all factors that will strengthen our competitiveness in the marketplace."

"The collaboration with the Centric Software team was extremely constructive, dynamic, and helped lay the foundations for growth."continues Giulio Pistolato.

"We are delighted with our partnership with Pettenon Cosmetics Spa SB.concludes Chris Groves, President and CEO of Centric Software. Our companies share the same values of innovation, digital transformation and sustainable development. We look forward to deepening our collaboration with Pettenon Cosmetics Spa SB, with a view to the long term."

Robertet accelerates natural start-ups

La Villa Blu, the Robertet Group's start-up gas pedal, opened its doors on March 21. This new center entirely dedicated to innovative projects in the natural products ecosystem was inaugurated on June 15, 2023.

Philippe Maubert, Chairman of the Robertet Group, inaugurated Villa Blu, the Group's start-up gas pedal, on June 15, 2023, in the presence of local elected officials.

Villa Blu's mission is to attract the most innovative young companies in the field of natural products. The gas pedal is based in Grasse, the historic birthplace of perfumery, at one of the Robertet group's three Grasse sites. The building housing the start-ups - which is one of Grasse's oldest perfumeries (the Charabot perfume house was bought by the group in 2007) - has, in addition to a reception level (rooftop), three levels of operations symbolizing the ascent of the start-ups, which will gradually climb them as the program progresses. "A way of visualizing the road travelled before being propelled towards independence, positive and sustainable impact and the conquest of their markets", says the Group.

The first five companies selected joined the gas pedal in March for an intensive six-month program. They can be supported for a further 18 months if they wish, and receive up to €100,000 in funding in exchange for a share in their capital. Every six months, five new companies will join Villa Blu. 

At Villa Blu, companies can get to know their market and their customers, refine their value proposition and launch their marketing, develop their sales, prepare and launch their fund-raising. To this end, the Robertet Group places its expertise, network and regulatory support at their disposal.

"The launch of the Robertet gas pedal is part of a long journey that the Group has been on since its origins. After sowing, harvesting, transforming, extracting and revealing the very best of nature, it now intends to unearth the most cutting-edge start-ups in the field of naturalness, whether or not their activity is related to their chosen fields: fragrances, flavours and natural extracts. One ambition: to renaturalize the world. And this adventure begins where it all began for Robertet".says the company.


A first class of five start-ups

Lao develops patented natural formulas based on hemp proteins (100 % natural and certified organic) for healthy hair and scalp.

Holite offers a beauty approach that combines dietary supplements and targeted topical treatments.

Farm3 designs aeroponic growth chambers enabling its customers to grow their plants all year round by controlling numerous parameters.

Coralai uses artificial intelligence to propose customized treatment protocols.

Pow! Foods manufactures and distributes vegetable protein-based meat substitutes for the flexitarian market.

Photos: © Robertet (via LinkedIn)

Natural skin care products to combat inflammation

Acne, psoriasis, dermatitis, eczema... inflammatory skin disorders affect nearly 20 million people in France, who often search in vain for healthy, natural solutions to their problems.

Yasmin Laalej has created Slolie to help them find lasting relief from inflammation. The young brand offers a range of three natural, organic and responsible skincare products.

Natural, effective active ingredients

Slolie is a French brand whose mission is to make aromatherapy more accessible by offering skin care products based on dry vegetable oils, plant extracts and essential oils.

Formulated by a team of aromatologists, these products are composed of active ingredients carefully selected for their anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, healing and regenerating actions.

Slolie skin care products are designed for anyone suffering from skin inflammations such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and dermatitis. They can also be used to reduce scars, redness and spots caused by these inflammations.

A skincare cream

Slolie's "Crème de soin essentielle" is a rich cream that combats all types of pimples, regulates skin reactions and regenerates the skin and skin barrier. This cream contains aloe vera, three dry, non-comedogenic organic plant oils (black cumin, jojoba and hazelnut) and five organic essential oils (sandalwood, geranium, rosewood, lavender and petit grain bigarade).

A serum 

Slolie's "Sérum très actif" is a natural 100 % serum composed of organic dry sesame and jojoba oils that nourish the skin, vanilla macerate that soothes it, and five organic essential oils that purify and repair tissues. It penetrates deep into the skin, leaving no greasy film, and gently rebalances skin prone to pimples and excess sebum.

Botanical water

A must-have for every routine, Slolie botanical water tones, soothes and purifies all skin types. Use as a spray just after cleansing, or at any time of day to soothe blemishes and redness. It combines three hydrolats: lemon balm, orange blossom and spearmint.

An eco-responsible approach

Slolie skincare products all contain over 99 % of ingredients of natural origin, and over 83 % of ingredients from organic farming. They are all made in France, using ingredients sourced from local farmers and elsewhere.

Slolie's suppliers grow their plants without GMOs or pesticides in eco-managed forests, giving the brand full traceability of its ingredients, from the plant to the final product.

The packaging is also eco-responsible: the containers are made of violet glass, 100 % recyclable, which naturally revitalizes the active ingredients, the labels are made from pure cellulose from eco-managed forests, and the ink is vegetable-based.

Finally, for every order, Slolie plants a tree thanks to its partnership with the Reforest'Action organization.

A brand on the move

Since its launch in 2021, Slolie has been a great success, with :

  • Over 3,000 customers seduced;
  • 10,000 subscribers on social networks;
  • More than 300 reviews, with an average rating of 4.8 out of 5 ;
  • More than 2,000 volunteers have tested the effectiveness of its skincare products;
  • Nearly 200 partner boutiques and pharmacies.

The founders of Slolie want to develop their range in a minimalist and responsible way. Their ambition is to make their brand the natural reference for relieving acne and eczema, reducing itching and redness, and fading scars.


Yasmin Laalej, co-founder of Slolie

For six years, Yasmin Laalej worked with companies on their digital strategies. In 2021, she left her job to found Slolie with her sister and partner Myriam Laalej.

This career change is linked to Yasmin's medical background. Suffering from acne and eczema for years, she discovered in 2017 that she had ulcerative colitis (UC), an autoimmune disease.

Yasmin asked around, trying to understand what was happening to her, and discovered that the common thread running through all her ailments was inflammation. So she decided to take the natural healing route.

She consulted specialists (naturopath, aromatologist, nutritionist, reflexologist and acupuncturist) and trained in naturopathy, which became a real passion: she devoured specialized books and online conferences. In the course of her research, she realized that it was difficult to find clear information on the protocols to follow and the products to use to relieve and heal her inflammations, as well as the side effects caused by drug treatment.

Thanks to professional advice, accumulated knowledge and natural products, Yasmin has finally succeeded in overcoming some of her ailments. Since 2020, she has been in total remission, with no more acne or eczema.

By talking to people close to her, Yasmin Laalej realized that many people were experiencing the same type of health problem as she was. She then created an Instagram account and a blog to share her experience, advice and anti-inflammatory recipes. Later, she conducted a wider study and founded Slolie in 2021 with her sister to make natural solutions more accessible.

Givaudan announces the death of master perfumer Olivier Pescheux 

It is with deep sadness and emotion that Givaudan announces the death of Olivier Pescheux, on July 10 in Paris, at the age of 57, after battling a long illness.

Born in Paris in 1966 and a graduate of Isipca, Olivier Pescheux began his career in 1990 when he joined Payan Bertrand in Bangkok. Returning to Paris in 1992, he put his talent to work for the Annick Goutal perfume house, before moving to Kao Corporation in 1993. He joined Givaudan in 1998, before returning in 2006 after a brief spell with Quest International. 

Known for his elegant, luminous olfactory style, Olivier is behind countless successes such as Eau Mohéli by Diptyque, Herod by Parfums de Marly and Explorer by Montblanc. His inexhaustible talent and creative versatility have earned him the rank of master perfumer.

Gilles Andrier, General Manager, said: "We are deeply saddened by the passing of Olivier Pescheux. He was not only the architect of many of the industry's most beautiful and iconic fragrances, but also a beloved person, devoted to his art and committed to mentoring the next generation of perfumers."

"Olivier liked to call himself a craftsman, and he really was, says Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrances. His ability to transcend any material, to make any ingredient tell new stories, has made Olivier one of the most important and celebrated creative minds. He leaves us a prodigious amount of creations, and his brilliant personality will live on through his legacy."

Oriol Segui, Head of Fine Fragrances Europe, adds: "Olivier contributed enormously to shaping the perfumery of today and tomorrow. He was loved for his warm and friendly nature, his generosity and his boundless artistic sense. Olivier will be sorely missed."

Chanel's Chance bottles are adorned with a "naturally aluminum" decoration by g.pivaudran

Chanel continues its transformation towards eco-responsibility. Its Chance de Chanel eaux de toilette now feature an anodized aluminum band made in France, instead of the lacquered galvanized brass used until now. To meet the challenge of this change of material, the luxury brand called on the expertise of g.pivaudran.

Chanel has set a strong objective for all its lines: to move towards CSR products. To accessorize its new Chance bottles, Chanel called on the expertise of g.pivaudran. The band around the bottle, originally made from varnished galvanized brass, is now made from anodized aluminum. These bands are made in France, in the Lot region, and assembled by the brand's partner glassmakers in France and Italy. While this change may be invisible to consumers, it is nevertheless a powerful symbolic act by Chanel: an eco-responsible transformation that is unostentatious, effective and concrete.

A major challenge for g.pivaudran

Manufacturing the strips for the Chance bottles was a real challenge for the g.pivaudran teams. They deployed the full extent of their know-how to shape a thin aluminum strip (0.6 mm), very delicately handled, to match the cylindrical curve of the bottle, while preserving the high gloss appearance of the material. A complex range, thanks to the flexibility of the strips, combined with the precision of automated assembly.

The manufacturer g.pivaudran has also positioned itself to produce all fragrance formats: 35 ml, 50 ml, 100 ml and 150 ml.

Chanel begins marketing these new bottles with the 100 ml version. All anodized aluminum formats will be available by 2024.

An achievement that may hide others...

This project for Chanel is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of the possibilities offered by g.pivaudran. The company specializes in aluminum, adapting this material to meet the needs of all brands, as well as their eco-responsibility requirements. It offers "all-aluminum" and/or "recycled-aluminum" packaging solutions for premium and luxury products.

"Our expertise enables us to shape aluminum into any shape, to assemble various materials and thus solve our customers' current needs. Eco-responsible by nature, infinitely recyclable, light and versatile, aluminum is our answer to luxury brands' desire for added value".says Marc Pivaudran, President of g.pivaudran.

Photo credit: Chanel

Your water may not be as clean as you think...meet Burkholderia cepacia

Water is an essential ingredient not just for life but also in home, cosmetics, and personal care products. Its quality can make all the difference in the quality of your products. How are you monitoring your water? If you are not testing your water systems regularly, you could miss lurking harmful microorganisms like Burkholderia cepacia. It isa waterborne microorganism that can take up residence in your water purification systems and become a reoccurring problem in your facility. Set yourself up for the best chance for success for high quality water if you commit to routine testing of your different water sources. This process will aid your facility and allow quality control professionals to assess and analyze any changes. Data gathering is critical to helping you to reach a state of control of your water system and reduce potential risk of missing harmful microorganisms that could get into your products. Although routine water system monitoring is not required in the personal care industry, water remains one of the top contamination sources found in manufacturing, so it is important that you are testing your system using validated methods on a regular basis.

What is Burkholderia cepacia?

Burkholderia cepacia is a microorganism species that is part of a larger group called the Burkholderia cepacia complex (BCC). There are 23 species in this group, and they are all Gram-negative, rod-shaped bacteria that have been shown in recent years to be of concern for home and personal care product manufacturers. Some species belonging to the BCC are opportunistic pathogens. The BCC has been directly linked to product recalls and in some cases consumer illness.

With this risk to consumers in mind, regulatory bodies tasked with protecting public health, such as the US FDA, have taken notice and issued numerous recalls for products that were found to be contaminated with BCC microorganisms. Non-sterile water-based products have featured prominently in BCC-related recalls, including products such as sanitizers, nasal sprays, mouthwashes, skin creams, electrolyte solutions, adult and baby wipes, and laundry detergent. Following an FDA advisory in 2017, USP introduced chapter 60 for the detection of BCC in non-sterile aqueous products in 2019. Currently, there is no official guidance in the European Pharmacopeia or International Organization for Standardization (ISO) on specific testing for BCC.

BCC is especially troublesome because of its ability to resist preservatives and antimicrobial agents, growing even in unfavorable environments. One species in particular, Burkholderia multivoranshas been noted to grow well in environments with little food such as distilled water. A case study shared by the FDA examined a situation in which Burkholderia multivorans was detected in a product prior to market release. Two batches of preserved nasal spray were found to be contaminated during routine microbial testing. They dug deeper in their investigation and started testing older lots of product and surprisingly found some lots also contaminated with BCC, even though they previously had tested negative. How could this be happening? To make it even more difficult, BCC species are generally slow growing microorganisms. The company found that the bacteria were initially inhibited by the preservative but then overcame it and flourished, making their initial negative tests inaccurate. Detailed testing identified the microorganism, not just as a member of theBCC, but as Burkholderia multivoranswhich allowed the company to link contaminated batches to each other and find the source of the contamination. Ultimately, the organism was traced back to a Burkholderia multivorans biofilm that had formed in the purified water system and having established the cause, they were able to correct the plumbing and continue with additional corrective actions.

Another reason why it is important to identify the BBC species is that one preventive measure is not necessarily sufficient to eradicate all member species, as they are unique and may respond differently to remediation attempts. Some species like Burkholderia multivorans can cause additional concern and require different action or a broadened scope of investigation. With that in mind, manufacturers have begun to revisit their microbiological testing protocols to detect BCC contamination. Not all members of the complex are designated as pathogens so it's important to accurately identify to the species-level. However, this has proven problematic using traditional DNA sequencing methods and has required advances in microbial identification strategies.

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Going beyond the species

There are times when you need to go beyond the species level. In an investigation, you may find multiple contamination events that identified the same species. Did they come from the same origin? Strain typing is a microbial characterization technique that can help distinguish members of the same species to the strain level using well-established, highly accurate DNA sequence analysis. For example, a company identifies a microorganism of the same species in two separate samples, one was from environmental monitoring of the water system and the other was recovered from routine quality testing of a finished product. If the microbial strains are identical, according to strain typing, that means that their DNA is the same and the microorganism contaminating the finished product is the same one you're finding in your water. This is the reason why strain typing is critical to resolving and remediating contamination events. Strain typing has been traditionally done by analyzing multiple coding genes in independent steps using Multi-Locus Strain Typing (MLST). Now, there is a technology that is being utilized called Next Generation Sequencing (NGS) that can analyze the entire DNA genome in one test producing the same results in less steps.

Test early and regularly for microbial contamination 

Catching microbes, like BCC, before they become a problem and working to implement a microbial contamination control strategy means monitoring your environment with accurate technology. Testing earlier and regularly in the manufacturing process and implementing good manufacturing practices can reduce contamination in your raw materials, water, and finished products. These practices ensure that products are consistently produced and controlled according to quality standards designed to aid in the quality control process. 

Any time part of a facility is offline due to a microbial contamination event, it equates to lost profits. If the contamination originated from your water system, no amount of cleaning the manufacturing vessels will solve the problem because that is not the source. An accurate species level identification and, when necessary, strain typing can help put you on the right path to finding the microorganism source.

AdobeStock 154756651- Sponsored content - Product info

How Can Charles River Laboratories Help You?

The relative cost of accurate microbial IDs is small especially compared to the loss of inventory or, worst case, the cost of a recall. Charles River Labs recognizes that accurate and reliable microbial identification data is critical not only for certain organisms such as the Burkholderia cepacia complex, but for all microbial isolates that are part of quality control practices. Our unique combination of Celsis® rapid microbial detection and Accugenix® microbial identification keeps your manufacturing operations running efficiently and smoothly. Explore our portfolio of integrated services at www.criver.com/cosmetics.

Micro bristles - the new must-have in skincare

Looking for pure, hygienic, applicators with resilience and higher dosage and application precision? The portfolio of beauty packaging specialist GEKA is featuring micro-bristle applicators to apply liquid or semi-solid substances to the skin with greater precision and hygiene and improve the existing applicator systems.

Applications with cotton buds, flocked applicators, nail varnish brushes, or fingers offer a lower level of hygiene and precision and cannot preserve total sterility since the fibers can adhere to the skin during application.

In contrast, GEKA's micro-bristles offer hygienic, as well as dot and track precision due to their composition and geometry. The bristles do not spread, and thanks to adjusted rigidity and perfect resilience, they can also reach hard-to-access areas.

image1- Sponsored content - Product info

The innovative micro bristles allow for precise, hygienic, and soft product application. Further, exact matching of the applicator to the application, product, and customer requirements. Made of pure pharma-grade plastic, avoiding any no use of glues, fibers, metal or additives, the micro bristles applicators are sustainable and guarantee a reduced product waste paired with higher dosage and application precision.

image2- Sponsored content - Product info

An innovative, adaptable packaging machine featuring an IO-Link solution

Rotzinger, a leading manufacturer of packaging and cosmetics machines, and CoreTigo, a provider of wireless industrial automation solutions, have announced a partnership. The integration of CoreTigo's IO-Link Wireless products and technology with Rotzinger's state-of-the-art packaging machines results in new, cutting-edge features that enhance versatility, productivity and durability.

The Swiss Rotzinger Group's mission is to constantly optimize its customers' production flow by offering cutting-edge solutions, services and software for a variety of industries, including pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and food. At the request of a major food manufacturer, Rotzinger developed an adaptable secondary packaging machine. The machine had to meet stringent throughput criteria, and be able to handle a wide range of packaging and product variants. The machine is based on an intelligent multi-carrier conveyor, responsible for carrying out various operations on the products, while constantly operating at high speed. For such a complex task, cables were not an option, nor were conventional wireless solutions. By using CoreTigo's IO-Link Wireless products, specially designed for wireless control and monitoring in industrial automation, Rotzinger can now wirelessly control the grippers on the carts without the need for external robots, cables or other equipment.

The machine's innovative design has reduced changeover time and footprint, and maximized capacity and versatility to handle multiple product and packaging types. The result is greater durability, with the machine requiring less energy, space and parts. The number of machines is also reduced, as a single machine can handle different products and packaging models. 

"We're delighted to partner with CoreTigo and integrate their products and IO-Link Wireless technology into our packaging machines, says Andreas Graf, CEO of Rotzinger PharmaPack. This partnership will enable us to offer our customers even more advanced features and additional benefits, including adaptability, as well as increased productivity and durability."

"Rotzinger is a reference in the packaging sector, and we're proud that our IO-Link Wireless technology will be integrated into its innovative machines, says CoreTigo CEO Eran Zigman. The collaboration between CoreTigo and Rotzinger is an excellent example of how technology can be harnessed to meet the changing needs of the industry."

Partnerships and advances such as those demonstrated by Rotzinger and CoreTigo help create a fully connected ecosystem, enabling real-time control and monitoring at every stage of the manufacturing process. Machines and production lines benefit from enhanced versatility and optimized design, boosting operational efficiency and productivity. Such an IO-Link Wireless packaging machine pushes back the boundaries of current machine-to-machine communication, and opens the door to previously unimaginable solutions and concepts.

The following video shows the machine in action: https://youtu.be/HSshEGywV4A

Louboutin entrusts Loubihorse design to TNT Group

The House of Louboutin signs LoubiHorse, a new light eau de parfum with spicy, floral notes. Its finely detailed cap, featuring a seahorse, seashells and a coral flower, continues to plunge us into the heart of the marine world.

In particular, TNT has succeeded in imperceptibly assembling the recyclable 100 % zamak cover with the red PP (polypropylene) insert, ensuring an ergonomic, user-friendly closure.

The cap is covered in rose gold ecoating, while the coral's epoxy details are delicately highlighted by the iconic Louboutin red. TNT Group is a multi-disciplinary manufacturer of premium primary and secondary packaging, and takes part in the production of numerous products for the Puig Group's Louboutin Beauty house.

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