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CSR

Photoprotection : a new impulse

in-cosmetics global marks the launch of Solastemis, a new plant-based active ingredient from Gattefossé. With this new ingredient, Gattefossé intends to offer brands, particularly dermocosmetics brands, a powerful active ingredient to protect the skin against UV rays, and respond to the growing needs of consumers concerned with preserving the health of their skin.

A physical barrier between the inside and outside of the body, the skin is one of the most reactive organs to external aggression, particularly UV radiation. By penetrating deep into the DNA of skin cells, UV rays are responsible for structural and functional alterations to the skin's various layers.

A research program focused on the effects of UVA on epidermal stem cells

A few years ago, Gattefossé's skin biology team joined forces with a research group specializing in the study of genotoxic stress in order to understand the effects of UVA radiation on epidermal stem cells.

This collaboration has revealed a greater capacity of epidermal stem cells to fight UVA aggression (compared to their daughter cells), thanks to more efficient repair mechanisms. However, these stem cells remain sensitive to UVA-induced DNA damage and lose part of their self-renewal capacity, known as "stem potential", with long-term consequences for epidermal homeostasis.

Preserve cellular integrity against UVA rays

Gattefossé has developed Solastemis, a natural active ingredient to combat the effects of UVA rays.

This active ingredient acts at the heart of epidermal mechanics, protecting keratinocyte DNA from UVA rays and boosting the skin's natural DNA repair system. It preserves epidermal stem cells, ensuring good homeostasis for the skin's first line of defense.

It also provides a shield for the dermis, protecting key matrix proteins (collagen, elastin) from UVA-induced degradation.

"The primary strength of Solastemis is to offer biological protection against the undesirable effects of UVA on the epidermis. UVA rays are often associated with photoaging, but this is due to their ability to penetrate deeper into the dermis than UVB rays, and to degrade the extracellular matrix, says Boris Vogelgesang, R&D Manager, Cosmetic Active Ingredients. Yet the effects of UVA on the epidermis are undeniable. They contribute significantly to accelerated epidermal aging, notably by affecting the self-renewal capacity of epidermal stem cells, and thus their ability to continuously regenerate the epidermis by producing new cells. By reducing the intracellular oxidative stress caused by UVA irradiation and promoting natural repair mechanisms, Solastemis helps preserve keratinocyte DNA, and consequently their functionality. In addition, the active ingredient has also revealed dermis-preserving properties, offering overall photoprotection of the epidermis and dermis."

A healthier, more radiant complexion and reduced wrinkles

Tested on a panel of 33 Caucasian women aged 37 to 55, in a double-blind active vs. placebo study, Solastemis confirmed its ability to reduce symptoms associated with photoaging.

A significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and an overall improvement in skin smoothness and relief are observed. The complexion is beautified, more even, and radiates health.

Sustainable sourcing on Reunion Island

The active molecules in Solastemis are extracted from Sechium edule (also known as chayote or christophine), a fruit grown and harvested by hand according to zero-waste principles, in the heart of the impressive Salazie cirque on the island of La Réunion. Long-term relationships with local growers and harvesters guarantee Gattefossé perfect traceability and quality, from field to laboratory.

As part of its CSR program, Gatt'Up & Act, Gattefossé has undertaken various initiatives to ensure the financial stability and technical development of this sector (supply contract, equipment financing, etc.).

Extraction using NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent) technology and a tailor-made manufacturing process (minimum number of steps and limited duration) result in an eco-designed ingredient with high biological performance. The ingredient has a natural origin content of 99.85% according to ISO 16128.

"Today, we're witnessing a real shift, from skin care to more global skin health care. The demand from consumers for health and protection-oriented cosmetics are increasing dramatically. UV protection is a central issue in this health theme, and photo-aging a constant concern. With Solastemis, Gattefossé pushes back the limits of photoprotection. This active ingredient has been developed with the aim of protecting cellular integrity against UVA radiation, by acting at the heart of our cells, at DNA level. This ingredient is the result of several years' research by our experts in natural product sourcing, plant chemistry, cell biology and clinical evaluation. They have combined their know-how to make the most of an exotic fruit, Sechium edule, and transformed it into a powerful active ingredient".says Laurie Canel, Product Marketing Manager - Active Cosmetics.

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