At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025, Roquette Beauté unveiled its new ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 305, an alternative to mineral and synthetic powders.
Beauté by Roquette ST 305 (Inci Amylopectin), responds to market trends and consumer demand for longer-lasting, high-performance cosmetics. This ingredient, derived from GMO-free waxy corn starch, comes in the form of a biodegradable white sensory powder, free from talc and nanoparticles.
Beauté by Roquette ST 305 boasts a patent-pending porous structure obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, giving it exceptional compacting properties compared with other natural powders on the market.
The sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, as well as its affinity with various oils and water, give cosmetics formulators the flexibility to create innovative, high-performance products in a wide range of cosmetic applications, including make-up, skin care, hygiene products, hair care and fragrances, in either loose or compact formats.
Maintaining color integrity
Beauté by Roquette ST 305 stands out for its ability to maintain color integrity. Roquette Beauté states that "during tests1This ingredient has demonstrated superior color retention, outperforming native corn starch and matching the performance of talc and porous silica beads. This benefit minimizes the need for additional pigments, making it an economical and attractive solution for make-up products. In addition, Beauté by Roquette ST 3051 is brighter than talc, silica and porous silica, while being less yellow than other natural sensory powders derived from native corn starch."
Matte finish and shine control
Beauté by Roquette ST 305 has the ideal mattifying power for cosmetics with a matte finish, such as lipsticks. Test results2 have demonstrated, according to Roquette Beauté, that "this sensory powder significantly reduces shine, providing a flawless matte finish to make-up products. In foundation formulas, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 reduced shine by 96 % compared with a placebo.3. "
According to Roquette Beauté, its sebum absorption capacity3 are also superior to those of native corn starch and silica beads, and comparable to those of poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA).
What's more, at a concentration of 65 % in a loose powder formulation, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 proved capable of smoothing crow's feet, blurring the eye contour and improving skin texture, guaranteeing a flawless, youthful appearance.
"We are very proud to add Beauté by Roquette ST 305 to our range.says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. This new ingredient is a real game-changer, responding to the growing demand from the cosmetics industry for high-quality plant-derived ingredients. The exceptional sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, and its affinity with various oils and water, give formulators the flexibility to create high-performance products in a wide variety of cosmetic applications."
The Roquette Beauté team has designed exclusive formulations highlighting Beauté by Roquette ST 305, to enable visitors to in-Cosmetics Global to discover the sensory and compaction properties of this new ingredient on their stand 5D130.
1. The impact of sensory powders on the color and brightness of a formula was measured using a BYK spectrophotometer. L represents color brightness on a scale from 0 to 100.
2. The cling test was measured using the Byko-Charts protocol.
3. For the study of sebum absorption, sebum was modeled by caprylic/capric triglyceride oil. This oil was chosen because it approximates the natural oils produced by the skin, enabling a realistic assessment of the powder's performance in controlling shine and maintaining a matte finish.
