All around our planet, climate change is leading us to face ever more harsh weather events, ever more extreme climates. Croda Beauty is launching Phytessence™ Osmanthus, a botanical extract dedicated to geo-skincare, intelligent routines adapted to specific geographical and climatic conditions.
It is important to Croda Beauty that they seek for innovations that respond to a global market issue, a fundamental beauty trend or a promising emerging concept. In 2023, their botanical team highlighted the rise of the geo-skincare trend, which consists of personal care products adapted to local climatic and environmental conditions. Sudden seasonal changes, extreme climates, degraded conditions, and air pollution, as well as the specific characteristics of individual skins, are all key factors in these intelligent, ultra-adapted routines.
But it was clear that there were no ingredients specifically designed to meet this trend. That was all the Croda Beauty team needed, and Phytessence™ Osmanthus was launched shortly afterwards.
The ultimate flower for geo-skincare
While still in its early stages, the concept of geo-skincare is gaining attention, but there is still a limited availability of clearly defined products for such routines on the market. Phytessence™ Osmanthus has emerged as a pivotal element in skincare aimed at preventing discomfort and reducing signs of ageing.
Its approach is based on the following observations: skincare often addresses UV-induced photochemical reactions, but the effects of infrared radiation (IR) are sometimes overlooked. IR induces molecular vibrations and rotations that raise skin temperature. Just fifteen to twenty minutes of sun exposure can elevate skin temperature by up to 42°C, leading to a notable increase in wrinkles and skin ageing, as well as thickening of the skin. Additionally, it can disrupt skin microflora, exacerbate skin conditions, and heighten the risk of heat stroke due to elevated temperatures.
Phytessence™ Osmanthus focuses on protecting and soothing the skin against the harmful effects of heat and sunrays on the skin, to prevent discomfort and skin ageing. These properties are particularly in tune with the image of prosperity and longevity conveyed by Osmanthus in Asian cultures, where it is highly regarded.
Proven protective and soothing properties with no compromise on naturalness
Quantified in verbacoside, a well-known molecule for its antioxidant and soothing properties, this innovative extract offers natural protection against the damage of sunrays and heat. Phytessence™ Osmanthus boots the skin’s defence mechanisms by increasing the release of HSP70 (Heat Shock Proteins), as proven by in-vitro testing. These “stress proteins” are triggered by denatured proteins in cells, caused by heat or environmental aggressors. They aid other proteins in maintaining or restoring their natural structure, promoting the survival and longevity of skin cells.
Several tests have been carried out to reinforce Phytessence Osmanthus’ Geo-skincare positioning as the shielding plant for everyday life:
- 10% decrease of skin redness and immediate soothing effect after exposure to UV light (in-vivo)
- Protection against free radicals (-27% ROS) (in-vivo)
- Decreased release of pro-inflammatory mediators (-52% PGE2 ) (in-vivo)
In crafting Phytessence™ Osmanthus, Croda’s botanical teams opted for Eco-Sound™ technology, prioritising both high active content and eco-responsibility.
Comparing the quantification of actenosides across osmanthus flower extraction methods, Eco-Sound™ technology outperformed others, delivering superior results despite operating at room temperature and in a shorter timeframe. Tests revealed that this innovative ultrasound method emits 16 times less CO2 per kilo of osmanthus extract compared to decoction and digestion methods. Additionally, Eco-Sound™ was estimated to use only 9 Wh/kg of extracts.
An outstanding experience, for a beautiful world
The luxurious yellow-orange hue of the osmanthus flowers embodies the warmth and positivity of the sun with finesse, while the shrub’s robustness symbolises resilience and longevity — a perfect blend of emotive components for a geo-skincare ingredient!
Aside from its historical use in Asian gastronomy and traditional medicine, osmanthus also enjoys a prominent reputation in perfumery. Its fruity base note is highly appreciated in numerous perfumes, justifying its name derived from the Greek words “anthos” (flower) and “osmê” (fragrance). This sets the stage for innovate scented skincare products or care fragrances that delight the senses and deliver skin benefits.
