At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Gattefossé unveiled a new lipophilic active ingredient: Eyeglorius, a certified organic multi-purpose solution capable of simultaneously treating signs of fatigue and opening up a palette of possibilities for skincare and make-up formulas.
"In response to the skinification of make-up, Gattefossé wanted to offer brands a multifunctional solution. Drawing on our multiple areas of expertise, we have developed Eyeglorius, a unique lipophilic active ingredient that perfectly matches the expectations of formulators and consumers alike."explains Laurie Canel, Active Ingredients Product Manager at Gattefossé.
Selective extraction of lipophilic metabolites
Consumer expectations: corrective make-up solutions infused with active ingredients. Dark circles and puffiness are difficult to treat: dysfunctional microcirculation, excessive vascular permeability, oxidation and inflammation are all responsible for the appearance of signs of fatigue.
Gattefossé's research team has sought to address this problem by capturing suitable molecules in the plant world.
Triterpenic acids (mainly ursolic, maslinic and oleanolic acids) have recognized effects on skin microcirculation, reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability and reinforcing endothelial barrier function. They also offer interesting potential for degrading the red pigment in dark circles.
Gattefossé has turned its attention to sea buckthorn leaves, renowned for their remarkable phytochemical richness, particularly in triterpene compounds. A supply chain via a Canadian family orchard ensures the traceability and high organic quality of the raw material.
In an upcycling initiative, in September Gattefossé recovers unused leaves from sea buckthorn branches, initially hand-harvested for their berries, which are then transformed into juices, sorbets or jams.
Based on eco-design principles, the process developed optimizes triterpene acid content while ensuring quality, safety and energy efficiency, in line with the company's CSR commitments.
Thomas Rinaldi, R&D engineer in plant chemistry for Gattefossé, sums up this phase of the research: "Using bio and chemoguidance, we evaluated different solvents, focusing on extraction performance, biological activity, environmental footprint and reproducibility. Our aim was to achieve an energy-efficient process without compromising efficiency. Supercritical CO2 has a unique and marked affinity for the extraction of apolar compounds, as well as a controlled environmental impact. This solvent quickly became our first choice.
After extraction, the plant material is solubilized in an oily compound of plant origin, guaranteeing the lipophilicity, stability and formulability of the active ingredient.
A versatile active solution
Gattefossé's skin biology team has set up a comprehensive study program to cover the pathophysiology of dark circles and puffiness, working on biopsy-derived endothelial cells.
"Introducing endothelial cells into our laboratory was a real challenge on this project. They were a new cell type for us. We had to learn everything about them: evaluate culture media and seeding densities, control their proliferation capacities, establish test kinetics... Moreover, our cells are primary cells extracted from biopsies, not cell lines: they have to be handled with great care, but are also closer to physiological reality."says Chloé Lorion, R&D skin biology engineer at Gattefossé.
Tested on a model of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells stressed by TNF-α, Eyeglorius leads to a significant reduction in vascular permeability, responsible for the appearance of dark circles and edema, according to Gattefossé. In addition, Eyeglorius promotes hemoglobin degradation and prevents its oxidation, key factors in under-eye hyperpigmentation.
Two double-blind clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of Eyeglorius in reducing signs of fatigue. Tested against a placebo, the active ingredient achieved a significant reduction in puffiness volume, combined with a lighter color and reduced surface area for dark circles. "Gattefossé claims: "The eyes are beautified, sparkling, as if re-energized.
Thanks to its lipophilic composition, Eyeglorius is a versatile technical ally for formulators, with a wide range of possible applications in O/W and W/O formulas. Heat-resistant, it can also be incorporated into stick formulas or in one-pot processes.
Eyeglorius is 100 % of natural origin according to ISO16128, certified organic, RSPO MB certified and NMPA China notified.
Photo : © Alina Kuptsova / Pixabay
