At in-cosmetics Global, Gattefosséunveils Silkaress, a new active ingredient designed to protect skin in the face of environmental change.
Climate change is no longer a distant threat; it has become a daily reality, transforming our environment, our habits, and even our skin. As weather conditions become unpredictable, humidity levels fluctuate and air conditioning causes rapid temperature variations, skin is forced to adapt to a new normal. For the beauty industry, this represents both a challenge and an opportunity.
Market trends and research
" The market is evolving towards beauty products capable of adapting to the climate, focusing on skin resilience rather than simple protection. The unpredictability of stress factors requires the development of formulas capable of adjusting to individual lifestyles. Over the past few years, our research team has been addressing this new chapter with one question in mind: how can we help skin not just survive, but thrive in an era of environmental volatility? »asks Laurie Canel, Product Marketing Manager, Active Cosmetics.
Inspiration and innovation
Gattefossé researchers have studied living systems capable of dynamic protection. A striking example is the delicate interaction between silkworms and white mulberry leaves (Morus alba), the origin of the silk cocoon. In sericulture, silkworms feed exclusively on white mulberry leaves, whose richness in key nutrients gives silk its softness and protective properties. Inspired by this natural bioconversion, Gattefossé sought to reproduce this phyto-structural sophistication by integrating white mulberry leaves into a supramolecular extractive system called NaDES.
" Living systems have developed remarkable strategies to adapt, protect and survive in constrained environments. Through exploratory work combined with our solid expertise in phytochemistry, bioprocessing and skin biology, we have developed a bio-inspired phytocomplex with exceptional protective capacities. The use of AI, in particular bioinformatics, has enabled us to better characterize the activation pathways of this ingredient in skin cells, with particular emphasis on the post-translational phosphorylation process. »explains Lucie Couturier, R&D Manager, Active Cosmetics.
Results and applications
By combining phosphoproteomics with bioinformatics analysis, proteomics and tissue engineering, Gattefossé reveals that Silkaress is able to significantly modulate protein phosphorylation in keratinocytes, a key mechanism of cellular adaptation. By activating signaling pathways essential to the cohesion and vitality of the epidermis, Silkaress enhances the skin's resilience, supporting its ability to cope rapidly with climatic variations and preserve the integrity of the cutaneous barrier.
In clinical studies carried out on volunteers of Caucasian origin with dry, sensitive skin, Silkaress demonstrated its ability to restructure the skin's micro-relief and homogenize hydration. The result is a silky, protective effect comparable to silk, and a deep sense of comfort and well-being. Silkaress offers softer, smoother, protected skin for a wide range of applications: climate-adaptive skincare, daily protection products for outdoors, cocooning skincare and comfort-oriented formulas.
In search of premium-quality white mulberry leaves, Gattefossé travelled to the Cévennes National Park biodiversity reserve in southern France, the historic cradle of French sericulture. The company's partner, Sericyne, is dedicated to revitalizing this emblematic regional industry, with a particular focus on traceability, ethics and sustainability. Certified organic, Silkaress is a signature ingredient, combining performance, naturalness and a deep connection with French know-how. It is designed to meet the expectations of cosmetics brands in terms of uniqueness and sustainability. Silkaress will be presented on the Gattefossé stand 3G80 at in-cosmetics Global Paris.
