Biology laboratory nature and science, plant and environmental study, DNA, gene therapy, and plants with biochemistry structures on white backgrounds. Generative AI
Two years ago, we announced the formation of a new consortium "DNA & Cosmetics", whose objective is to guarantee the traceability of plant raw materials. As a proof of the cosmetic sector's will to reinforce transparency and security of supplies, a new step was taken at the beginning of March with the signature of a pre-consortium agreement by the historical actors. This new phase is accompanied by a call for applications from companies, cosmetics groups and ingredient suppliers, wishing to join the first cosmetics consortium dedicated to the traceability of natural resources through DNA analysis. This consortium is built around DNA Gensee, a company specialized in plant bio-technologies founded in 2012. The company has just announced that it has raised €600,000 in funding to support its growth and to meet an irreversible demand for its genetic analyses of plants. With its own DNA analysis technologies and those of its network of highly innovative partners, DNA Gensee offers manufacturers unique tools and a complete solution to meet the major challenges and current risks :
demand for traceability and transparency by consumers who increasingly require proof of the origin and quality of products,
risks linked to fraud, particularly in the supply chains of certain raw materials such as spices, hemp, honey, spirulina, teas, aromatic plants, perfume plants, etc.
the need to reduce environmental and social impact through more rational and sustainable supply (UN and Convention on Genetic Diversity objectives).
Actors in the cosmetics sector who share the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet can cooperate and participate in this approach to contribute to the common good and enhance the value of the industry.
6 out of 10 French people have already left a place because they didn't like the smell.
Scentys, the French expert in airborne fragrance diffusion for the past 20 years, unveils the results of a study on the relationship that the French have with the scents that mark their daily lives.
Consciously or unconsciously, scents act on our state of mind. But what impact do home fragrances really have on our daily lives? This is the question that Scentys wanted to answer through this study, conducted last June with BVA.
Odors, an increasingly important element in all places
A very large majority of French people say they are rather sensitive (49 %) or even very sensitive (29 %) to odors of any kind. They therefore attach great importance to the smells in the various places they frequent: at home of course (87 %), but also in a hotel (83 %), a restaurant (78 %) or a store (73 %). 60% of them have even left a place where they did not like the smell.
Home fragrances, a vector of well-being
For the French, home fragrances have a rather positive image: they give them a pleasant (46 %) or relaxing (28 %) feeling. 54 % of respondents have adopted them in their homes; and if half of them try to mask unpleasant odors (kitchen odors, pet odors...), three quarters (76%) do it simply for their well-being.
A habit that now follows them even in their car: 32 % of French people use scent diffusers, always for their pleasure and well-being (77 %).
The French are in favor of diffusing home fragrances in the places they frequent
More and more places that welcome the public are using the diffusion of room fragrances or pleasant smells. This practice is welcomed by the French: nearly half (45 %) consider it a good thing and that this experience is rather pleasant.
"Smells play an extremely important role in our relationship with the world. comments Pierre Loustric, president of Scentys. "An American study has shown that humans retain only 1 % of what they touch, 2 % of what they hear, 5 % of what they see, but 35 % of what they smell. It is not surprising that the diffusion of perfume, in the home or in places where the public is present, has such an impact on our state of mind.
Derived from environmentally friendly plant processing technology, this new active ingredient mimics the natural benefits of light to revitalize skin and improve mood. Derived from Sanguisorba officinalis, an herb used in traditional Chinese medicine, it enhances vitamin D by distributing and activating receptors to increase skin's natural radiance.
Clariant Actives & Natural Origins has launched Rootness Mood+, a new advanced skincare active that leverages the proven effects of light and concentrates them in an eco-friendly extract.
Natural light provides essential health benefits, from preventing seasonal affective disorder to improving sleep. In low light regions, people suffer from winter depression and low mood. Skin disorders are more common than in areas with higher light levels. Dramatically, about 75 % of the world's population is vitamin D deficient due to excessive time spent indoors.
Rootness Mood+ can enhance the benefits of sunlight, improving mood and evening out skin tone. It reactivates the skin's natural glow and improves skin tone by triggering the skin's photoreceptors, opsins, and may also help increase the effect of vitamin D in the skin by upregulating vitamin D downstream pathways.
"Our modern lifestyles make us forget about the need to spend time outdoors, which has direct effects on the appearance of the skin. Rootness Mood+ can mitigate the effects of seasonal variations and reduced sun exposure by cosmetically replicating the benefits of light on the skin, providing a way to improve skin beauty and tone," said Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Actives and Natural Origins.
Rootness Mood+ is derived from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis, a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine. Commonly known as the great burnet, the plant grows "in the sight of the sun". Grown under aeroponic conditions, using patented, eco-friendly Plant Milking technology, this special new active ingredient is also highly sustainable.
Clariant will be at in-cosmetics Global 2023, from March 28 to 30 in Barcelona, on booth Q10.
The brand will host two conferences:
March 29, 09:15-09:45 / Sustainability Corner The science of sustainable beauty that helps preserve natural environments Speaker: Julie Droux
March 30, 09:20-09:50 / Theater 1 Emotional beauty: a step towards the benefits of light, internal balance and happiness Speaker: Julie Droux
IFF today announced the launch of Aurist AGC, a new biodegradable cationic biopolymer for improved hair conditioning, in hair care products. Aurist AGC is the first personal care ingredient derived from IFF's patented Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (Deb) technology, which uses advanced biotechnology to create a new class of biosourced polysaccharides with unique structures and product characteristics.
The Deb process operates at ambient temperature and pressure without the use of harsh solvents, thereby reducing overall energy consumption. Manufacturers will now be able to respond to increased regulatory and consumer pressure to replace some traditional polymers with sustainable materials. Polysaccharides developed using this technology can be designed to be biodegradable and can improve the performance of beauty and personal care products.
" Aurist AGC demonstrates the potential of the new Deb platform by utilizing IFF's extensive biotechnology capabilities to provide sustainable, high-performance beauty solutions that can truly make a difference in this industry" Johan Jansén-Storbacka, director, Personal Care, IFF, said. " Consumers no longer have to make trade-offs between sustainability and performance. "
Aurist AGC is part of the new Aurist functional line, which includes natural and nature-inspired ingredients designed to provide established and new sensory profiles and benefits in a wide variety of applications such as leave-on, rinse-off, skin care and hair care.
" Aurist allows us to bring our cutting edge science and large scale manufacturing capabilities to functional ingredients in the beauty and personal care space" Piera Pericu, business segment leader, Personal Care, IFF, said. " Consumer demand for effective and environmentally friendly products is rapidly transforming this industry. The ingredients in the Aurist line are inspired by nature and feature sustainable and natural credentials to allow consumers to do more good while looking good. "
Earlier this year, IFF launched Aurist GHI, an all-natural rheology modifier extracted from guar bean. Aurist GHI shows excellent synergies with other hydrocolloids to provide high viscosity solutions, even at low concentrations, while offering a smooth sensory profile. It is easy to formulate, can be cold processed and can help reduce energy and production costs for beauty and personal care manufacturers. This allows cosmetic formulators to reduce the total level of use of rheology modifiers in their final formulations.
From groundbreaking new launches to the latest advances in hair care and skin health, meet Solvay at in-cosmetics to discover how to embrace sustainability without compromising performance. Solvay, a leader in naturally derived ingredients for beauty care formulations, has announced a full range of functional and sustainable ingredients that will be highlighted at the upcoming in-cosmetics Global 2023 trade show in Barcelona from March 28 to 30. Targeting beauty care creators from around the world, Solvay will showcase a broad portfolio of innovative ingredients and formulations for hair and skin care at booth V10. In addition, Solvay's beauty experts will present its latest wellness cleaning solutions in a technical seminar and hold a conference on fermentation as a technology for a sustainable future.
" As an industry leader in natural and naturally derived polymers and specialty surfactants, we support our customers in the beauty care industry with scientific, formulation and application expertisesays Jean-Guy Le Helloco, global vice president, Home & Personal Care, at Solvay. " Our portfolio helps formulators create multi-sensory, multi-functional products designed to enhance consumer experience, wellness and health, while having the smallest environmental footprint."
The main trend driving the beauty industry is sustainability, which Solvay is addressing with a wide range of biodegradable, biosourced, ethically sourced and renewable ingredients and formulation solutions with a low carbon footprint, as underlined by its commitment to beauty for the planet.
In hair care, the company's portfolio aligns with current lifestyles and community needs, such as textured hair, extending hair health to scalp care and "skinifying" hair care with skin care-inspired ingredients. On the other hand, Solvay's innovative skin health and cleansing solutions address functional health and mental and emotional well-being, while responding to the trend of solid formats to minimize waste and the overall product footprint with "bring your own" (ByO) water-based cleanser concepts.
The company's exhibit at in-cosmetics 2023 will be led by the recent launch of Polycare Heat Therapy, a new naturally derived active ingredient that protects hair from thermal damage caused by high-temperature appliances such as straightening or curling irons and hair dryers . This new product complements Solvay's existing performance ingredients for hair health, including Polycare Split Therapy for the repair of long, damaged hair, and Polycare Frizz Therapy for the discipline and long-lasting shape of straight and curly hair.
The Solvay stand will also focus on gentle and environmentally friendly cleansing solutions, from ultra-low salt surfactants for sensitive skin to taurates and sulfosuccinates for sulfate-free formulations, as well as our new biobased and biodegradable glycolipid biosurfactants Mirasoft SL 100 %, manufactured through a cost-effective fermentation process. This line includes Mirasoft SL A60 and Mirasoft SL L60, recently certified as "microbiome friendly" by MyMicrobiome. This certification has also been granted to Dermalcare Lia MB, a circular, siliconized alternative.
Meet Solvay's beauty care team at booth V10 during in-cosmetics 2023 to discuss the benefits these and other innovative ingredients can bring to your formulations, and don't miss the company's live lectures at the show:
On March 28 in Theater 3 from 10:35 to 11:05, Caroline Mabille, Global Marketing Manager for Beauty Cleansing Solutions, will hold a seminar on "Cleansing solutions that promote the well-being of consumers and the environment", and on March 28 from 4:00 to 4:30 pm in the Sustainable Development zone, Caroline Mabille will join Eric Leroy, Global Marketing Director, Beauty Care, to present "How can fermentation technologies advance the beauty care industry?
You have been waiting for it! Our international special issue is out! Discover in a magazine in English all the solutions gathered around the great theme "Save the planet!".
Interviews, reports, news, testimonials, expert opinions, etc. Find a wide range of inspirations and concrete solutions so that the perfumery and cosmetics industry can do its part.
This issue is freely available in direct download here. Would you like a printed version? Pick it up at the in cosmetics Global trade show in Barcelona or receive it directly at home if you are a subscriber !
The beautiful waterfall streaming into the river surrounded by greens
Eco-responsibility is one of the major expectations of today's consumers. Even though geopolitical conditions and their current inherent crises have a general impact on global consumption and economies, attention to respect for the environment has never been more important. The observation is known and although warnings about climate changes began to resonate in the 70s, manufacturers in the cosmetics value chain have relatively recently begun to integrate this new vision into the development of their activities. The slogan "Save The Planet" is vast and specifically concerns a myriad of sectors, whether it is respect for biodiversity in the sourcing of active ingredients, the Nagoya Protocol, the integration of increasingly natural ingredients, attention to controversial and dangerous substances, upcycled formulas, organic labels, the reduction of energy consumption during production processes, the development of solid products, the reduction of packaging, new recycled or upcycled packaging... Developments in the industry are strong and rapid, but the regulatory framework may not be evolving as quickly as they are. "Beyond the formulation, eco-responsibility is gaining ground in the field of testing in various ways. First, we can note an evolution of tests carried out on humans towards more ethics, protocols with a propensity to alter the skin of volunteers being replaced by new methods such as can be seen for tests to evaluate sun protection indices. The latter, in fact, evolve towards hybrid methods without application of erythema on the subjects. In general, the development of the offer of in-vitro and ex-vivo tolerance and efficacy tests, thanks to increasingly sophisticated test supports with, among other things, the addition of neurons or capillaries (sensitive skin, aged skin) allows new opportunities for testing and evaluation of the mechanisms of action of active ingredients and finished products." We were then able to observe the integration by the first laboratories of the EcoVadis certification, such as CIDP in Mauritius, confirming their ambitions to put sustainability and ecology at the heart of their testing activities. This accreditation makes it possible to see on four categories of classification: Environment, Social, Employee Well-being and Ethics. More directly, the preclinical and clinical evaluation sector provides support to the eco-responsible approach of the beauty sector through the offer of various tests from the physico-chemical characterization of formulas, the search for allergens and harmful substances (endocrine disruptors ...), the evaluation of container-content interactions, ecotoxicology tests (marine, terrestrial or aquatic) or biodegradability
The ecotoxicology of solar products
Let's now focus on the evaluation of ecotoxicology in the service of the validation of active ingredients and sun protection care. Most consumers today are extremely sensitive to the impact of the use of cosmetic products on the environment. We are even witnessing the emergence among younger generations of consumers who refuse to use certain products if they do not meet environmental protection criteria such as sunscreen products and their impact on aquatic environments, marine life or corals. The Hawaiian archipelago has seen the gradual disappearance of corals and their marine life caused by the pollution of certain chemical compounds present in sunscreens. In 2015, a study by the University of Central Florida proved that oxybenzone was responsible for coral bleaching and disrupting the development of a new ecosystem. On January 1, 2021, Hawaii banned the over-the-counter sale of sunscreen products containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, chemical compounds considered particularly "dangerous" to the balance of the underwater environment.
A vertical shot of small colorful fish swimming around beautiful corals under the sea
A recent review of environmental contamination and potential health impacts on aquatic life of the active chemicals in sunscreen formulations published in March 2022 in the Australian Journal of Chemistry by Nial J. Wheate, showed that the level of sunscreen chemicals found in samples varies considerably by region, the time of year (higher during the summer months), and the time of day. This publication confirms numerous studies. It is now known that chemicals in sunscreens can have potential estrogenic hormonal activity and hormonal effects, or that they can act as teratogens, or alter gene regulation, induce changes in the production of antioxidants and free radicals, and cause coral bleaching. This article clarifies that when damage occurs to reefs and animal life, there are often other related causes that can impact aquatic life, such as changes in water temperature, water turbidity, high nutrient levels, or the presence of pesticides and drugs. Not all sunscreens have been studied for their impact on underwater life and it may not be appropriate to make generalizations about sunscreens and their ability to cause harm to aquatic life. Sunscreen products protect the skin from UVA and UVB damage mainly through the scattering or absorption of UV rays. Sunscreens are formulated with a variety of ingredients and chemicals, including oils, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, and filters. These filters come from two types of chemicals: metal oxides (zinc or titanium) or organic chemicals.
The Zebra Fish model
In ecotoxicology tests, zebrafish larvae have been included in most studies and are recognized as a standardized model. Easy-to-use and inexpensive zebrafish share some genetic, physiological and anatomical similarities with mammals and are commonly used to study the effect of chemicals on vertebrate embryonic development. Since they have transparent bodies, direct visualization of organ development is easier. To evaluate endocrine activity, embryos are used as a support for in-vitro assays to measure the thyroid activity of an ingredient or formula. A fluorescent biomarker reveals endocrine activity. In this model, thyroid signaling is revealed by a change in the level of fluorescence of larvae in the brain with an increase in case of pro-thyroid effect and a decrease in case of anti-thyroid effect. Each sample is tested alone or co-treated with a reference. This co-treatment allows the activation of the thyroid axis of the larvae and therefore the detection of synergistic or inhibitory effects. The results can be expressed in hormonal equivalents. This analysis makes it possible to identify the concentration of thyroid hormone T3 which gives an effect equivalent to that of the sample as well as the concentration of testosterone or flutamide. In addition, for marine ecotoxicity, there is an ISO standard (16712) that allows the study of acute amphipod toxicity, Corophium Arenarium, determining the acute toxicity of marine or estuarine sediments to amphipods. Marine or estuarine amphipods that typically live below the surface of sediments may also be exposed to contaminated sediments. The endpoint of this test is the percentage of mortality. Salinity and temperature vary depending on the amphipod species used.
In addition, we are seeing the emergence of initiatives by consulting firms that allow a more responsible monitoring of the ecotoxicity indices of cosmetic products. For example, the French company Toxiplan offers beauty manufacturers an eToxiSafe ecolabel that establishes, through ecotoxicological studies, that a product has a reduced impact on the environment. It is proof of a commitment to environmental protection, and transparency on products. This label is established from the analysis and interpretation of experimental data and also from in silico data (predictive tests carried out from computer modelling). The eToxiSafe eco-label is the result of a calculation of the environmentally safe concentration.
The study of the life cycle of cosmetic products
In recent years, when 17 million consumers in France use an application to scan the composition of cosmetic products, brands are increasingly explaining their consumer protection approaches and making it more visible. In France, 25 players in the beauty industry, representing a thousand companies including the Pierre Fabre Group, Aroma-Zone, the Rocher Group, Léa Nature and professional unions such as Cosmebio and Cosmed, joined forces to create the Green Impact Index Consortium. Initially developed by the Pierre Fabre Group in 2021 to measure, improve and indicate the environmental and social impacts of brands' cosmetic products, this index analyzes the life cycle of products through six stages: raw material, manufacturing, transport, distribution, use and end of life. Thus, this consortium has designed this index to help consumers make informed choices, in accordance with their convictions. The actors of this consortium have therefore joined forces, under the coordination of Afnor Normalization to revisit the methodology and develop a tool for environmental and social display of beauty products. A methodology that is intended to be simple and accessible, even to the smallest companies, and which should be available at the end of the second quarter of 2023.
But this consortium is not the first of its kind to see the light of day. Initiated in September 2021 by the French groups L'Oréal and LVMH, the Brazilian Natura & Co, the German Henkel and the Anglo-Dutch Unilever, the EcoBeautyScore consortium, whose objective is to launch a common rating system for the environmental impact of beauty products, now brings together some 50 groups and brands such as Beiersdorf, Coty and Estée Lauder. This consortium is working with the consulting firm Quantis, to "ensure a robust and scientific approach". The objective is to co-construct an evaluation methodology and a scoring system that will be guided by and articulated around the following 4 principles: - A common method for measuring environmental impacts throughout the life cycle of products, based on the principles of the "Product Environmental Footprint" (PEF, the scientific method of the European Union). - A common database on the environmental impacts of standard ingredients and raw materials used in formulas, packaging and during use. - A common tool for assessing the environmental impact of each product, and usable by non-specialists. - A harmonized rating system that will allow companies, on a voluntary basis, to inform consumers about the environmental footprint of each cosmetic product. The methodology, database, tool, and rating system will be verified and monitored by independent third parties.
From an operational perspective, he is also supported by Capgemini Invent (project management) and Mayer Brown (legal advisor). The 50 members of the EcoBeautyScore Consortium started working together, divided into thematic working groups. A prototype footprint and rating was planned for the end of 2022, providing an environmental rating for certain product categories initially. TheEcoBeautyScore Consortium is an open initiative and calls on all players in the beauty sector to join it regardless of their size or financial resources. All companies will be able to benefit from pre-existing work, and are invited to bring their own experience. The Consortium is also committed to consulting with external experts, including scientists, academics and NGOs to ensure that this process is as inclusive as possible. The work, developed by the Consortium, will be made public and may be used, on a strictly voluntary basis, by both the members of the Consortium and any other interested party. Finally, we observe that at the beginning of 2023 the cosmetic industries around the world reveal a real motivation to engage in the preservation of our planet. The tools that will be developed will be available to all companies and will allow through collaborations with organizations and testing laboratories to strengthen the various approaches to environmental protection. The news is good, the projects are launched, and the industry is becoming aware of its responsibility to consumers to have a better grasp of these subjects. These steps take time, but we can hope that the momentum launched by all these actors will offer a rapid and operational implementation that will make it possible to move forward in a more serene future.
Greentech presents a new innovative active ingredient: Holobiosys. An extract of wild yellow gentian roots potentiated by an upcycled fermentation process with a rare and cold-tolerant bacterium from the French aerobiota. It restructures the skin in depth, stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and lipids and restores skin hydration with a smoothing effect on wrinkles, while invigorating the skin holobionte.
A "new generation" active ingredient
Holobiosys is a scientific breakthrough resulting from more than 30 years of research by Greentech. 30 years of expertise in various fields that they cross: biotechnologies, metabolically oriented fermentation, phytochemistry, green extraction, biomimicry and microbiota.
His scientific discoveries have enabled him to unveil a new generation of active ingredients for cosmetics. A new systemic approach where they take a step up to treat the skin as a whole, which integrates for the first time a metaproteomic study, focused on the specific function of each cellular protein that will help improve the conditions of dry and dehydrated skin via a boost of hyaluronic acid and skin lipids. A great first for cosmetics.
Greentech believes that ecosystems should be studied as a whole, focusing on the interconnections between their different components rather than on the individual parts. To go even further than a simple study of the microbiota on one side and the skin on the other, the study of the holobiont provides a holistic view of the interactions between the skin and its microbial ecosystem. With age and loss of hydration, its study shows that these interactions evolve and tend to diminish and slow down. In addition to an in-depth hydra-restructuring action, it is this skin/microbiota relationship that Greentech studies and boosts with HOLOBIOSYS®. For a revitalized, healthy and harmonious holobiont.
Understanding and mastering the holobiont is a scientific success for Greentech. An innovation that advances science and opens the field of possibilities for new, more specific, more durable and increasingly effective skin care products.
Holobiosys: to counteract skin dryness and smooth wrinkles
To counter dehydration (lack of water) and dryness (lack of lipids) of the skin, Holobiosys boosts the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) in both the epidermis and the dermis. It also stimulates the HA CD44 receptor and its signaling cascade allowing the reinforcement of the epidermal barrier. Tight junction and differentiation markers are upregulated as well as lipid synthesis in keratinocytes for a more cohesive epidermis capable of retaining the skin's water content. It also stimulates the expression of markers of the dermal-epidermal junction for a better diffusion of HA-related water within the skin. Finally, cellular antioxidant responses are up-regulated in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, for protection against HA degradation by free radicals.
Clinically tested on volunteers with dehydrated skin, Holobiosys increases the skin's hydration index after 28 days of application at 1% compared to placebo and smoothes wrinkles. It also protects the hydrolipidic film and even has a lipid-replenishing effect on a sub-panel with dehydrated and sebum-deficient skin.
Holobiosys: for a rejuvenated and reinvigorated holobiont.
With Holobosys, Greentech's R&D goes further by studying the skin holobiont (the assembly between the skin and its microbiota) with an innovative cutting-edge technology: a metaproteomic study. With age and loss of moisture, Greentech has demonstrated a slowdown in the skin's barrier and antioxidant functions, both of human and microbial origin. By focusing on host/microbiota interactions, Holobiosys stimulates these functions and contributes to a more harmonious and invigorated holobiont, allowing for a deep moisturizing-restructuring action.
The first trade show of the year for the sector, the 15th edition of Cosmet'Agora brought together on January 10 and 11, 2023, in Paris, all the key players in cosmetics - French and European - interested in ingredients and their formulations.
There was a big crowd, at the beginning of this year, at the Espace Champerret, in Paris. With some 6,350 participants - visitors, exhibitors, organizers - the French Society of Cosmetology can be proud of having organized an event that is highly appreciated by professionals!
The red threads of this year 2023: naturalness, of course, but also a wave of freshness materialized by all the concepts presented at the Formulation Award whose theme was... the wave. On the program of the show, notably: the presentation of innovative active ingredients as well as new product ranges.
As an example, Agrimer has highlighted its new active ingredient Algafiller - Anti-aging - Surge Like. This ingredient is objectified in vitro and in vivo on its lipofilling activity, filler, improvement of the firmness and density of the dermis. The result of several years of research on extraction technologies and upcycling, it is extracted from Codium tomentosuma chlorophycean alga with a coenocytic structure. This algae sourced in Brittany is made up of a single giant cell with a strong capacity for healing and regeneration.
Mibelle Biochemistry turned to Greece to design CALMandrin, an ingredient obtained by upcycling the peels of organic mandarins from the island of Chios to combat "inflammaging." According to the company, it improves the signs of aging and soothes redness and skin irritation, while increasing the firmness and density of the skin.
Lipoid Kosmetik sourced its ingredients from the same geographic area. The company presented an extract with de-stressing and antioxidant qualities, without caffeine, for skin regeneration during the night. Mountain Tea Pro, is an aqueous glycerine extract of organic mountain grass made from Sideritis Scardica, a plant with many properties.
With the contents of its "Spa at home box", Solabia has presented ten formulas that allow you to take time for yourself with care routines for the face and body. The company worked on two complementary axes: efficiency and personalization. Among the ingredients used is Neoglow, an active ingredient obtained from organic kale from Brittany to boost skin renewal. It is the key ingredient in an emulsion with a frosted texture that can be customized with nude (nourishing) and green (lifting) care beads.
Apioskin, a natural plumping active ingredient with moisturizing properties, derived from duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza), purified and enriched with apiogalacturonans that give it a highly hygroscopic power, and Lightskin, a natural depigmenting active ingredient rich in sulfur peptides, are among the active ingredients highlighted by Silab.
Biobased active ingredients
Croda took advantage of the show to highlight a natural cellulose powder, ChromaPur, an alternative to microplastic balls. Crodarom, manufacturer of plant extracts, a subsidiary of the group, presented Zanthocare, a Sichuan pepper extract that has been proven to reduce body odor and respect the skin microbiome.
Based on the results of new tests, Exsymol has positioned its active ingredients within a "Body confidence" range, composed for the moment of three silanols: Algisium (for an overall improvement of the figure), Cafeisilane (to specifically reduce cellulite on the thighs) and Hydroxyprolisilane (which promotes the firmness of the thighs). A fourth ingredient will be unveiled at In-Cosmetics.
Global Bioenergies transforms sugars (beet molasses, wheat glucose syrup, agricultural and forestry waste) into naturally occurring isobutene, a product that the company then uses to make biosourced isododecane, a highly prized element in the formulation of long-lasting makeup. Global Bioenergies has also launched its Last makeup brand to highlight its products and expertise.
For demonstration purposes, CLR presented an anhydrous cleanser to emulsify with water. This formulation features its ingredients CutiBiome CLR (to regulate skin dysbiosis related to acne), MultiMoist CLR (to deeply plump and moisturize the skin), Cutiguard CLR (anti-aging used here for its unifying effect on the complexion), as well as a purifying clay.
Inspired by the "Blue Beauty" trend, the company Seppic presented a collection of seven formulas composed of products derived from marine resources, Seqens for its part honored lemon verbena with its active Titr'Extract French Verbena. Far from being exhaustive, this overview of Cosmet'Agora 2023 shows the richness of the French and European offer in terms of active ingredients.
Among the distributors represented, IES Ingredients highlighted its offer as well as Neptune, a balm-shampoo developed in its application laboratory and presented at the Formulation Award. With no added fragrance or water, it contains Pentavitin (DSM) for intense hydration, Alpaflor Edelweiss CB (DSM), Sageguard Crop-P (Aethera Biotech), a peppermint extract (Mayflower) and a peppermint essential oil FFL (Albert Vieille). Originality of the formulation: a semi-solid texture which is transformed at the temperature of the skin into oil easy to apply. The water is then used to lather and clean the hair without leaving any residue or greasy effect.
Also among the exhibitors of the show: specialists and experts of the test as Expertox (laboratory of test and toxicological expertise) or SGS Idea (entity of SGS following the acquisition of Idea Tests). Skinobs highlighted the new sections of its Preclinical platform (In silico and Advice).
Among the few equipment manufacturers, the Finnish company Delfin Technologies did not miss the call to present its portable measuring instruments designed to analyze the properties of the skin and the effects of products applied to the skin. Also present, Misceo, which now distributes its products in Australia, was able to showcase its new turboagitators developed for mid-range products to meet the needs of R&D laboratories.
The 2023 Formulation Award: a tidal wave of original concepts
An event within an event, the formulation prize rewards the most innovative formulas at each edition of Cosmet'Agora. This year, 68 projects were submitted to the jury of experts. The theme imposed for this 2023 edition: the wave. Four projects were rewarded.
Givaudan Active Beauty received the first prize with its L'O concept, a lifting skin care product enriched with seaweed. This "intelligent" gel-textured emulsion, dedicated to reshaping the oval of the face, was made with Gravityl, a new natural 100 % anti-gravity facial care ingredient developed by Givaudan Active Beauty. According to the company, L'O stimulates skin elasticity, regenerates cells, reorganizes collagen and hydrates the skin at the highest level.
The second prize was awarded to Symrise for its Beach Sand Face Cleansing Foam formulation. This waterless cleansing foam is based on the SymReboot L19 ingredient, a fermented active developed with respect for the skin's microbiome that soothes, moisturizes and strengthens even sensitive skin, according to its developers. "With Beach Sand Face Cleansing Foam the powder transforms into a sparkling foam when mixed with water and provides the gentlest cleansing experience," Symrise says.
Third prize: SurfactGreen, thanks to its formula based on CosmeGreen MB1618. Gliss & Green Hydramask is a moisturizing face mask based on glycerin. Rinsable with water, this mask offers according to SurfactGreen "a tidal wave of glycerine providing hydration and vitality.
Saci-CFPA received the Coup de Coeur award for its Cure des Haliades, a rejuvenating two-phase serum-in-oil. Inspired by the beauty of sea nymphs, this regenerating and surfacing anti-aging serum is enriched with marine bio-retinol, extracted from a specific fraction of Mediterranean microalgae, and Moringa oil, appreciated for its regenerating capacity.
Nuwen, expert in powder cosmetics, has developed 3 technologies of powder hygiene products in order to offer different galenic and gestural uses. The products will be available on a test area on the Nuwen stand X57.
Nuwen is a manufacturer of finished cosmetic products and has been the specialist in powder cosmetics in France for 35 years. The company has launched a range of powdered hygiene products in 2021, and in 2022, a shower gel in pellets to be dissolved in water.
A complete and eco-responsible range of hygiene products
The challenge taken up by Nuwen's R&D team is to respect the formulation specifications by taking into account environmental responsibility, the use of essential natural ingredients and sensoriality. These three technologies are then declined in different formulas to be applied to hands, body or hair.
Discover 3 ways to consume in an eco-responsible way while keeping your habits and adapting to your lifestyle.
By choosing to formulate waterless cosmetics, Nuwen offers cosmetic brands a real solution to reduce the water footprint. The company has chosen to promote responsible consumption of cosmetics by formulating waterless cosmetics to offer a real solution to reduce the water footprint. Waterless products are more compact, leave less waste behind and are lighter to carry.
The 3 technologies of hygiene products
Powder to be diluted
The powder to be diluted requires a mixing step with water to obtain a cleansing gel with a texture and foaming power comparable to classic liquid products. The easily refillable product is ready to use instantly.
Dissolving tablet, Tab&Care by Nuwen
The tablet is the result of a compression of powder composed of natural ingredients and allows to deliver the right dose of the product. The tablets are added to a bottle of water and dissolve in 24 hours to obtain a classic shower gel.
Concentrated powder
The concentrated powder turns into foam when it comes into contact with the water used in washing. It is available in a cleansing or exfoliating formula.
Find all Nuwen's powder hygiene products to test at the In Cosmetics show on booth X57.
