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Cosmogen formalizes its status as a mission company

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40 years after its creation, Cosmogen, recognized worldwide for its expertise in skincare and make-up application, has adopted the status of a company with a mission, thus formalizing legally its raison d'être: to innovate in a responsible manner for safe and sustainable beauty while respecting people and the environment. The company has also determined its 3 main missions:

  • Environmental: To responsibly design and deliver innovations for beauty brands by improving our environmental footprint, notably through eco-design, the use of recycled and recyclable materials and the optimization of our operations.
  • Social: Build a unifying corporate project to enable the collective development of employees in a safe, caring and inclusive work environment.
  • Societal: Generate a positive impact on society by investing in solidarity actions.

This advent underlines the consistency of the strategy deployed over the past 3 years. By appointing Priscille Allais as CEO of Cosmogen at the end of 2019, MBO&Co, its reference shareholder since 2016, had indeed entrusted her with the mission of accelerating Cosmogen's growth and strengthening its positioning as an innovative company, expert in the application of skincare and makeup. Priscille Allais had chosen to lead a strategy of triple social, environmental and economic performance, embodied and supported by a responsible and visionary innovation policy, largely motivated by the employees.

" It was Cosmogen's employees who inspired me to put CSR at the heart of Cosmogen's strategy and we thank our customers for welcoming it. Our growth in 2022 (30%) demonstrates that a strategy that aims to have a positive impact on the Planet and on Humans generates economic growth. This is how we see the future and I wanted to formalize it by adopting the status of a company with a mission. Cosmogen has also signed the United Nations Global Compact and joined the CSR gas pedal, which helps companies accelerate the integration of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Our ambition is to become a great ETI, embodying strong societal and human values and promoting eco-responsible know-how in the cosmetics industry. "Priscille Allais, President and CEO of Cosmogen

WiSeed supports Pumpart in its new fundraising

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The editorial staff
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WiSeed, a leading digital investment platform, is launching a fundraising campaign to benefit Pumpart, a start-up from Paris that has developed an alternative to the usual packaging of everyday products, thanks to its Tubairless technology.

The climate emergency is at the heart of the concerns of the French, while more than 30 billion plastic tubes are consumed each year in the world. These tubes do not provide sufficient protection for the increasingly natural creams and are difficult to recycle because of the cream residue. It is estimated that up to 25 % of the products contained in these packages are wasted and remain stuck in them.

With this in mind, the Parisian start-up Pumpart has developed an innovative, ecological and economical technology, constituting a real alternative to traditional packaging for everyday products. The patented Tubairless solution reduces product waste, prolongs the freshness of creams, reduces plastic materials, while facilitating the recycling of bottles, and finally, offers a price 25 % cheaper than airless bottles.

This patented technology consists of integrating a flexible pouch into a tube and creating a pressure zone on one side of the tube. The pouch contains the product and retracts as the consumer presses on this area which acts as a pump. The pouch acts like a piston that pushes the cream with each press, until the last dose, so that not a single drop of product is wasted.

This solution adapts to most of the products already available on the market, and has already won over more than 100 cosmetic brands, including a world leader such as Bioderma. Pumpart realizes 30% of its sales in export, in Europe and in the United States.

Awarded several times, and notably in 2018 with the prestigious Global Packaging Innovation Awards Diamond Finalist ,Pumpart aims to raise €500,000 in convertible bonds. The funds raised will be invested in growth drivers, and will be used to integrate its new, latest-generation production line, to carry out the development of ever more eco-responsible configurations, particularly cardboard-based, and to strengthen its team through sales and engineering recruitment. 

The only minimum of the project realization of 300 000 € has already been reached in one month. 

Xavier Sutty, President of Pumpart comments: "Faced with the need to accelerate our investment plan to meet the demands of our clients, we sought a quick and alternative financing solution by turning to Wiseed, whose community supports positive impact companies." 

Jean-Marc Clerc, CEO of WiSeed Transitions states: "Our participatory financing platform is historically committed to serving start-up companies.up and SMEs that innovate in the field of green growth. Pumpart is a pioneering company whose unique technology meets a strong demand and which has demonstrated the relevance of its business model with a full order book. We are very confident in its ability to achieve its objectives and proud to support a company with a positive impact on the planet.

Coptis launches AI R&D program to predict formula stability

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The editorial staff
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For 23 years, Coptis has been at the forefront of software solutions for cosmetic laboratories. Coptis Lab, the company's flagship product, is a PLM software for formula development and global regulatory compliance. Performing stability testing is a mandatory step in formula development. This multi-step process and repetitive task is arduous but can be improved with technology.


In a collaborative effort, Coptis is introducing its artificial intelligence R&D program integrated with Coptis Lab PLM software. If successful, the artificial intelligence function will be able to predict the stability of a formula before testing it.


From a large number and variety of observations, AI can learn and identify patterns to generate accurate predictions. The accuracy of Al's predictions increases with the amount of data available. With 22 years of digital experience, an extensive network of Coptis users worldwide, and a deep understanding of our customers' needs, Coptis is the leading cosmetic software company with the potential to succeed with the most accuracy. The Coptis Lab software learning database is growing as more formulas and stability test results are added.


Its customers are at the heart of the innovation cycle and AI technology will transform their work by enabling them to respond effectively to industry trends.

Aptar Beauty and Dermalogica win two new awards with Future by Aptar, the single-material pump

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The editorial staff
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Future, the single-material pump developed by Aptar Beauty, a global leader in dispensing systems for beauty brands, has won two new awards - WorldStar and PCD - for its collaboration with Dermalogica on their newest product line
cleaners.
Dermalogica x Future by Aptar was among the winners of the PCD Awards at Paris Packaging Week in the Skincare Premium category. In addition, this partnership was also honored as a winner in the Packaging Materials and Components category.

An award winner with multiple distinctions

These awards follow numerous awards received in 2022 after the launch of the
Dermalogica's skincare line. These include the prestigious Formes de Luxe Award 2022 in the Distribution System category and the AmeriStar Award 2022, which
precedes the WorldStar Awards in the "Sustainable Packaging" category. Upstream of
this collaboration, the Future omnichannel pump won an award at the 2022 Sustainability
Awards in the e-commerce category and was a finalist at the Plastics Recycling Awards Europe.

Sustainable and omnichannel solution

Together, these awards salute the sustainable and omnichannel attributes of Aptar Beauty's Future pump. The polyethylene dispensing solution is single-material and fully recyclable when combined with a PE or PET bottle.
It meets the requirements of ISTA 6 and is suitable for e-commerce thanks to its integrated locking/unlocking ring, and is equipped with an actuating device
360° free rotation which minimizes the risk of breakage during transport.

A winning collaboration

Dermalogica was the first prestige skincare brand to launch its cleanser line using Future, including Special Cleansing Gel, UltraCalming Cleanser and Clearing Skin Wash. Launching in 2021, this innovation met Dermalogica's sustainability goals, while being omnichannel and easy to carry.
The PE pump, combined with the bottle containing 50 % PCRs from Dermalogica, reinforces the brand's contributions to circularity by reducing conventional plastic and eliminating metal.

Kevin Davis, Packaging Engineering Director at Dermalogica, said, " The pump is a real game changer in terms of recyclability and single-material packaging. In addition to its sustainability benefits, Future's e-commerce-friendly design is equally important to our brand as we ship large volumes in small packages. "


Xavier Joseph, VP Global Marketing and Innovation Aptar Beauty, said, "These awards attest to the fact that Future meets the market demands of premium brands like Dermalogica. By combining durability and e-commerce compatibility, Future addresses two major needs for differentiation in the skincare market, without compromising aesthetics."

Groupe Berkem announces 2022 sales of €51.8m (+12.4 1Q6)

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The editorial staff
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Ripe kiwi fruit on a branch on a plantation.

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, today announces its consolidated sales for the year ending December 31, 2022. 

Olivier FAHY, Chairman and CEO of the Berkem Group, comments : "Despite a 2022 financial year marked by an inflationary context and persistent geopolitical tensions, the Berkem Group has managed to stay on course and continue its growth momentum, well on the way to achieving its 2024 objectives. This was made possible by strategic investments, notably in Lixol, which performed well over the period as a whole. In the fourth quarter, we also strengthened our international coverage by teaming up with the Barentz group, which now distributes our ingredients not only in North America, but also in Germany, Austria and German-speaking Switzerland. We also continue to be very active in launching new sustainable solutions aimed at accelerating our customers' ecological transition, as demonstrated by our new Ki'Leaft product. In 2023, we intend to reinforce our growth and will remain attentive to any external growth opportunities that may arise."

In October 2022, the Berkem Group announced an exclusive partnership in North America - effective November 1, 2022 - with the company Barentz, for the distribution of the Group's sustainable ingredients in the "Health, Beauty & Nutrition" market. This exclusive collaboration was extended in November 2022, with Barentz also becoming the exclusive distributor of the Berkem Group's sustainable ingredients in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. 3 In November 2022, the Group announced the launch of a new active ingredient, Ki'Leaft, on the "Health, Beauty & Nutrition" market. Ki'Leaft is a cosmos-certified 100% kiwi leaf extract of natural origin, upcycled and produced locally close to the Berkem Group's extraction plant in the Dordogne.

The Group confirms its ambition to achieve sales of at least 65 million euros by 2024, which could be increased to at least 85 million euros in the event of external growth operations. By the same date, the Group aims to achieve an Ebitda margin of around 25%.

Axilone opens a new production site in Catalonia

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The editorial staff
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Buoyed by the dynamism of the perfume and skincare markets in the Luxury Goods sector, as well as its customers' growing interest in aluminum, an infinitely recyclable material, Axilone decided to significantly increase production capacity at its Sant Pere de Torellô site in Catalonia.

The investment takes the form of a new production site, located in the immediate vicinity of the current site. It will cover an area of around 12,000 m2 and should eventually double the capacity currently available.
Construction of the new plant will start in the first half of this year. The new plant is scheduled to go into production in early 2025.
The new plant will be entirely powered by certified green energy, as is the current production site.

Biolie opens an office in Houston

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The editorial staff
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Capitalizing on nearly 20 years of research on enzymatic extraction, Biolie is a French company specialized in the development of natural, active and functional ingredients for the cosmetics, nutraceutical and nutrition-health markets. Thanks to the patented enzymatic extraction technology, the products are manufactured without the use of organic solvents, in a biorefinery concept.
Each fraction of the plant is recovered as a natural ingredient or converted into energy in a "zero waste" concept. Biolie offers a "clean" alternative to traditional solvent-intensive processes for markets looking for natural, authentic, healthy products with high nutritional value on the one hand and "eco-responsible" processes on the other.

Today, Biolie is pleased to announce the official opening of its North American office in Houston, Texas. Jordan Yeboah, a technical sales engineer, will be Biolie's first US-based representative. He will be able to support companies in their projects involving natural and upcycled ingredients. This is an opportunity for the company to get closer to its current American customers and to establish new partnerships. Currently, 40% of Biolie's sales are exported, of which only 6% are in the United States. The company's intention is to develop further in the US market, the largest cosmetic market in the world, with the support of ChemSpec Ltd, Biolie's exclusive US distributor.

Biolie's new US office will promote and provide a variety of
of natural cosmetic ingredients approved and certified Cosmos, obtained via an eco-process of enzymatic extraction without solvent:
- Aqueous actives (conservation boosters, soothing, anti-pollution, anti-aging/whitening, moisturizing, antioxidants, skin repair, firming/anti-stretch mark)

- Vegetable oils (Mirabelle kernel oil, Vosges fir seed oil,
Chicory seed oil, Beech seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Hemp seed oil)

- Natural colored oils (oils that add color to formulations with antioxidant activity)

- Active plant waters (Cosmos certified fruit extracts that can partially or totally replace water in a formulation with microbiota-friendly or antioxidant activity)

- Botanical extracts

These ranges of ingredients are based on upcycled and recovered co-products from the food industry, forestry and plant care. With the largest portfolio of upcycled cosmetic ingredients in France, Biolie's ambition is to become a worldwide reference, especially in the USA.

Specialized in co-product sourcing and ingredient development, Biolie also offers custom development without Moq.

For its 50th anniversary, Exsymol launches its nutrition activity

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The editorial staff
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Exsymol, supplier of active ingredients for 50 years, and recognized worldwide for its expertise in silicon and its range of active ingredients, silanols, is launching a new nutrition activity. With its expertise in skin and its biological mechanisms, Exsymol wishes to develop a wide range of active ingredients to meet the growing demand for food supplements. This diversification of activities comes 3 years after the beginning of the transformation and reorganization process of Exsymol, under the impulse of Pierre Bondon, its delegate president. The idea is to rely on the expertise and experience of the evaluation, marketing and communication teams, among others, to enter this new market.

The new nutrition activity was launched during the celebration of the fiftieth anniversary, during the scientific seminar, with the distribution of a box presenting an In and Out routine based on 4 products formulated with Exsymol ingredients, both cosmetic and food.

The Glow routine composed of a serum and a skin detox supplement, both based on carcinine (Alistin for the cosmetic ingredient and Glycoless for the food ingredient): consumer tests proved that the combination of these 2 products induced softer skin for 82.5 % of users, brighter skin for 70 % as well as shinier hair for 71.1 % of them.

The second routine, RelaxThis product is based on silicon with Algisium, Exsymol's flagship active ingredient, formulated in a wake-up mist and a food supplement for overall skin and hair well-being.

According to consumers, the skin is softer (80 %), better hydrated (74.4 %), the combination of the 2 products induces a general feeling of well-being for 80 % of users.

This range of products aimed to make a concrete proposal of the use of Exsymol ingredients was presented as a Monegasque routine, between rhythmic and softer life, combining the benefits of hydration and luminosity of the complexion.

Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie awarded at the PCD innovation awards 2023

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The editorial staff
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The French factory and its customer Puig are recognized in the perfume category.
for Dries Van Noten's perfume bottles.
This is the 3rd time the collection has been recognized, having received a Formes de Luxe award last October and a CosmétiqueMag gold award in November.

The refillable bottle for Dries Van Noten eaux de Parfum, launched almost a year ago, is now available in a new version.
awarded in the women's fragrance category at the PCD innovation awards in January 2022. Both Puig, the customer, and Stoelzle, the glass supplier, received the award on Wednesday, January 25, 2022. All suppliers involved in the project were also congratulated.

This attractive glass bottle is made in Hauts-de-France, at Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie, and features ten shells on the bottom of the bottle, four different materials (porcelain, plastic, wood, metal) and two types of lacquer (eight classic and two Quali Glass Coat 2.0, an eco-friendly powder coating exclusive to STO).
A first of its kind for Stoelzle, the innovative features involve the development of ten products at once; a complete, multi-material product line with the need to adapt the gluing process to account for dimensional differences, between shell and bottle, depending on the material. Each of the ten bottles requires a different bonding system, which is a first for Stoelzle in combining so many materials at once.
Dries Van Noten's collectible bottle also features a unique unscrewing system, with a mesh inside to make the closing mechanism invisible. A special key is supplied with the refill bottle to unlock the pump, along with a funnel for easy filling.

The innovative bottles are refillable and reusable, which allows them to be transformed into soliflore and to become real objects of art. The bottles can also be used as perfume diffusers.
The creative director of the brand that bears his name, Dries Van Noten, drew on his passion for flowers and gardening to come up with a concept for the bottles. This inspiration led him to team up with leading international perfumers, who interpreted different aspects of the brand's unique character.
The brand has entrusted Stoelzle Masnières with the exclusive production of the glass and decoration of these refillable bottles, which, like the world of Dries Van Noten, have a striking visual appeal.
For Dries Van Noten Beauty, integrity and sustainability are the basis of everything that is developed.

All their products are designed to be refillable and have less impact on the environment.
the environment. The bottles contain 11.6 % of recycled industrial glass (PCR glass). What's more, two of the line's bottles are powder-coated with Stoelzle's exclusive Quali Glass Coat 2.0 decoration technique, in line with an eco-responsible approach.
Dries Van Noten's bottles can be seen in ten decor variations, eight of which are lacquered: Jardin de l'Orangerie, Neon Garden, Rosa Carnivora, Cannabis Patchouli, Voodoo Chile, Rock the Myrrh, Fleur du Mal, Soie Malaquais; and two are powder-coated (exclusive STO process, Quali Glass Coat 2.0): Raving Rose and Santal Greenery.
Since the launch of eaux de parfum and lipsticks, a whole collection of fashion and accessories has been developed to match the 10 existing bottles.
The Stoelzle team is proud to have been recognized as best in class at the Formes De Luxe luxury packaging innovation awards.

medmix continues its expansion in Asia

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The editorial staff
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In line with its strategy of local growth for local in China, medmix has signed an investment agreement to acquire a majority stake in Guangdong Qiaoyi Plastic Co. LTD, a beauty products manufacturing company in Shantou.
This latest acquisition will enable medmix to strategically position itself as a player in the fast-growing beauty sector in China, the world's second-largest cosmetics market.
Qiaoyi, which employs around 350 people, is a long-standing manufacturer of a wide range of products for the beauty market, with a strong base of Chinese customers producing local cosmetics brands.
Qiaoyi's current owners will retain a minority stake in the company and continue to operate the business. This will enable medmix to leverage Qiaoyi's entrepreneurial spirit and in-depth market expertise, as well as access established relationships with local customers through its award-winning Geka applicators for local cosmetics brands.
The transaction is expected to close in the first half of 2023.
Girts Cimermans, CEO of medmix, said: " We continue to execute our local strategy for the local growth plan in China. China is the world's second largest beauty and personal care market, which is expected to grow strongly over the next few years. With the acquisition of Qiaoyi we will benefit from this market growth, broaden our customer base and improve our access to native Chinese brands for our wider product range.. "
This announcement follows recent signings between medmix and Valencia-based Universal de Suministros, S.L., as well as a long-term lease agreement for a new medmix facility near Atlanta, Georgia, USA, supporting all of the company's healthcare segments.

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