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Paris Packaging Week: 30% increase in visitors

It's time to take stock for ADF, PCD, PLD and Packaging Première, the Paris Packaging Week trade shows that closed its doors on January 26 after two days of very intense meetings. For the first time in its history, this international event, organized by Easyfairs, brought together not three, but four major packaging innovation shows at Porte de Versailles in Paris: PCD for beauty products, PLD for premium beverages, ADF for aerosols and dispensing systems, and the new Packaging Première for luxury products. This key event for packaging players attracted 12,747 people over two days, or 8,988 visitors, an increase of 30% compared to the June 2022 and January 2020 editions, representing over 2,500 brands and design agencies. They all came to get inspired, network or present their latest innovations, confirming Paris Packaging Week's status as the leader in its sector.

We are extremely satisfied with the results of this edition, which returned to its historical schedule after two years disrupted by the pandemic. Once again, we have demonstrated the relevance of this event for packaging professionals and the brands that call on them. The number of visitors is constantly increasing and the arrival of Packaging Première, dedicated to the world of luxury, has aroused the interest of big names that had not yet come to this event. Between exhibitors, conferences and awards, Paris Packaging Week brought packaging innovation to life in its aisles, with professionalism and enthusiasm. "says Josh Brooks, marketing director of Paris Packaging Week.

More than 2,500 brands, including the biggest names such as LVMH, L'Oréal, Chanel, Gucci, Unilever, Estée Lauder, Pernod Ricard, Diageo, Rémy Cointreau and many others sent their teams (purchasing, design, innovation, marketing, packaging, logistics, etc.) to Paris Packaging Week. Their goal: to identify future partners among the manufacturers and exhibitors present; to be inspired by the winners of the Packaging Innovation Awards; to discover the latest innovations in the field of primary and secondary packaging; to get informed and debate during the numerous conferences and talks organized during the two days of the event.

For its 2023 edition, Paris Packaging Week brought together four major trade shows, including, for the very first time in the capital, Packaging Première, dedicated to packaging in the luxury, delicatessen, accessories, jewelry and fashion sectors. This novelty attracted suppliers and major brands that had not previously attended the event, while the historic shows repeated their successes of previous years:

  • PCD, the first packaging innovation show for perfumes, cosmetics and personal care products.
  • PLD, the must-attend exhibition for premium beverage packaging.
  • ADF, the only global event dedicated to innovation in aerosols and dispensing systems
  • Packaging Première, the Parisian trade show dedicated to the packaging of luxury products

ADF also benefited from a unique agreement with FEA, the European Aerosol Federation, which groups 28 national aerosol industry associations around the world. By combining, for the first time, its bi-annual Global Aerosol Events show with ADF, it has increased its impact and attractiveness.

Cosmogen has designed and patented the Paper Stick composed of 78% of FSC paper for anhydrous formula

This luxurious version offers an easy and glamorous gesture, like a lipstick. Its innovative and patented rotating system consists in turning the lower part to reveal the stick-formula, without touching the fingers. It is the tube that goes down and not the sitck-formula that goes up. Paper stick is fully customizable with the brand's colors and recyclable.

Givaudan unveils RetiLife, an innovative 100 % naturally derived retinol from biotechnology

Givaudan today announces the launch of RetiLife, an anti-aging molecule and a revolutionary development for the cosmetics industry. This new active ingredient is the first retinol to contain exclusively natural ingredients, creating a sustainable solution to chemically-synthesized retinol.
RetiLife is the result of biotechnological advances made by our experts. Through the use of micro-organisms, pure retinol is produced in a natural carrier during a fermentation process of plant sugars, then combined with natural antioxidants to ensure its protection, even at very high concentrations. RetiLife is the first product of its kind to offer a sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol, with equivalent anti-wrinkle efficacy.

With a composition of 100 % of natural origin, including sunflower oil as a carrier, RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate. Its molecule is identical to its chemical equivalent.


Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Parfums et Beauté, said: " Over the years,
Active Beauty has broken the boundaries of cosmetics by launching active ingredients that outperform their competitors. With the launch of RetiLife, a unique biotech-derived cosmetic innovation, we are focusing on creating consumer-preferred products that leverage our capabilities in line with our raison d'être.
"


Romain Reynaud, R&D Director of Givaudan Active Beauty, said: " Retinol is widely used in skin care applications for its anti-wrinkle properties.
effective products. After years of research and development, we are
delighted to be able to offer the most innovative retinol on the cosmetics market, thus opening up the
door to new cosmetic applications. RetiLife™ is a game-changer in the beauty sector, responding to consumer demand for healthier beauty products.
"


RetiLife will be showcased at in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Barcelona (Spain) from 28 to 29 June.
to March 30, 2023.

Cosmogen formalizes its status as a mission company

40 years after its creation, Cosmogen, recognized worldwide for its expertise in skincare and make-up application, has adopted the status of a company with a mission, thus formalizing legally its raison d'être: to innovate in a responsible manner for safe and sustainable beauty while respecting people and the environment. The company has also determined its 3 main missions:

  • Environmental: To responsibly design and deliver innovations for beauty brands by improving our environmental footprint, notably through eco-design, the use of recycled and recyclable materials and the optimization of our operations.
  • Social: Build a unifying corporate project to enable the collective development of employees in a safe, caring and inclusive work environment.
  • Societal: Generate a positive impact on society by investing in solidarity actions.

This advent underlines the consistency of the strategy deployed over the past 3 years. By appointing Priscille Allais as CEO of Cosmogen at the end of 2019, MBO&Co, its reference shareholder since 2016, had indeed entrusted her with the mission of accelerating Cosmogen's growth and strengthening its positioning as an innovative company, expert in the application of skincare and makeup. Priscille Allais had chosen to lead a strategy of triple social, environmental and economic performance, embodied and supported by a responsible and visionary innovation policy, largely motivated by the employees.

It was Cosmogen's employees who inspired me to put CSR at the heart of Cosmogen's strategy and we thank our customers for welcoming it. Our growth in 2022 (30%) demonstrates that a strategy that aims to have a positive impact on the Planet and on Humans generates economic growth. This is how we see the future and I wanted to formalize it by adopting the status of a company with a mission. Cosmogen has also signed the United Nations Global Compact and joined the CSR gas pedal, which helps companies accelerate the integration of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Our ambition is to become a great ETI, embodying strong societal and human values and promoting eco-responsible know-how in the cosmetics industry. "Priscille Allais, President and CEO of Cosmogen

WiSeed supports Pumpart in its new fundraising

WiSeed, a leading digital investment platform, is launching a fundraising campaign to benefit Pumpart, a start-up from Paris that has developed an alternative to the usual packaging of everyday products, thanks to its Tubairless technology.

The climate emergency is at the heart of the concerns of the French, while more than 30 billion plastic tubes are consumed each year in the world. These tubes do not provide sufficient protection for the increasingly natural creams and are difficult to recycle because of the cream residue. It is estimated that up to 25 % of the products contained in these packages are wasted and remain stuck in them.

With this in mind, the Parisian start-up Pumpart has developed an innovative, ecological and economical technology, constituting a real alternative to traditional packaging for everyday products. The patented Tubairless solution reduces product waste, prolongs the freshness of creams, reduces plastic materials, while facilitating the recycling of bottles, and finally, offers a price 25 % cheaper than airless bottles.

This patented technology consists of integrating a flexible pouch into a tube and creating a pressure zone on one side of the tube. The pouch contains the product and retracts as the consumer presses on this area which acts as a pump. The pouch acts like a piston that pushes the cream with each press, until the last dose, so that not a single drop of product is wasted.

This solution adapts to most of the products already available on the market, and has already won over more than 100 cosmetic brands, including a world leader such as Bioderma. Pumpart realizes 30% of its sales in export, in Europe and in the United States.

Awarded several times, and notably in 2018 with the prestigious Global Packaging Innovation Awards Diamond Finalist ,Pumpart aims to raise €500,000 in convertible bonds. The funds raised will be invested in growth drivers, and will be used to integrate its new, latest-generation production line, to carry out the development of ever more eco-responsible configurations, particularly cardboard-based, and to strengthen its team through sales and engineering recruitment. 

The only minimum of the project realization of 300 000 € has already been reached in one month. 

Xavier Sutty, President of Pumpart comments: "Faced with the need to accelerate our investment plan to meet the demands of our clients, we sought a quick and alternative financing solution by turning to Wiseed, whose community supports positive impact companies." 

Jean-Marc Clerc, CEO of WiSeed Transitions states: "Our participatory financing platform is historically committed to serving start-up companies.up and SMEs that innovate in the field of green growth. Pumpart is a pioneering company whose unique technology meets a strong demand and which has demonstrated the relevance of its business model with a full order book. We are very confident in its ability to achieve its objectives and proud to support a company with a positive impact on the planet.

Coptis launches AI R&D program to predict formula stability

For 23 years, Coptis has been at the forefront of software solutions for cosmetic laboratories. Coptis Lab, the company's flagship product, is a PLM software for formula development and global regulatory compliance. Performing stability testing is a mandatory step in formula development. This multi-step process and repetitive task is arduous but can be improved with technology.


In a collaborative effort, Coptis is introducing its artificial intelligence R&D program integrated with Coptis Lab PLM software. If successful, the artificial intelligence function will be able to predict the stability of a formula before testing it.


From a large number and variety of observations, AI can learn and identify patterns to generate accurate predictions. The accuracy of Al's predictions increases with the amount of data available. With 22 years of digital experience, an extensive network of Coptis users worldwide, and a deep understanding of our customers' needs, Coptis is the leading cosmetic software company with the potential to succeed with the most accuracy. The Coptis Lab software learning database is growing as more formulas and stability test results are added.


Its customers are at the heart of the innovation cycle and AI technology will transform their work by enabling them to respond effectively to industry trends.

Aptar Beauty and Dermalogica win two new awards with Future by Aptar, the single-material pump

Future, the single-material pump developed by Aptar Beauty, a global leader in dispensing systems for beauty brands, has won two new awards - WorldStar and PCD - for its collaboration with Dermalogica on their newest product line
cleaners.
Dermalogica x Future by Aptar was among the winners of the PCD Awards at Paris Packaging Week in the Skincare Premium category. In addition, this partnership was also honored as a winner in the Packaging Materials and Components category.

An award winner with multiple distinctions

These awards follow numerous awards received in 2022 after the launch of the
Dermalogica's skincare line. These include the prestigious Formes de Luxe Award 2022 in the Distribution System category and the AmeriStar Award 2022, which
precedes the WorldStar Awards in the "Sustainable Packaging" category. Upstream of
this collaboration, the Future omnichannel pump won an award at the 2022 Sustainability
Awards in the e-commerce category and was a finalist at the Plastics Recycling Awards Europe.

Sustainable and omnichannel solution

Together, these awards salute the sustainable and omnichannel attributes of Aptar Beauty's Future pump. The polyethylene dispensing solution is single-material and fully recyclable when combined with a PE or PET bottle.
It meets the requirements of ISTA 6 and is suitable for e-commerce thanks to its integrated locking/unlocking ring, and is equipped with an actuating device
360° free rotation which minimizes the risk of breakage during transport.

A winning collaboration

Dermalogica was the first prestige skincare brand to launch its cleanser line using Future, including Special Cleansing Gel, UltraCalming Cleanser and Clearing Skin Wash. Launching in 2021, this innovation met Dermalogica's sustainability goals, while being omnichannel and easy to carry.
The PE pump, combined with the bottle containing 50 % PCRs from Dermalogica, reinforces the brand's contributions to circularity by reducing conventional plastic and eliminating metal.

Kevin Davis, Packaging Engineering Director at Dermalogica, said, " The pump is a real game changer in terms of recyclability and single-material packaging. In addition to its sustainability benefits, Future's e-commerce-friendly design is equally important to our brand as we ship large volumes in small packages. "


Xavier Joseph, VP Global Marketing and Innovation Aptar Beauty, said, "These awards attest to the fact that Future meets the market demands of premium brands like Dermalogica. By combining durability and e-commerce compatibility, Future addresses two major needs for differentiation in the skincare market, without compromising aesthetics."

Groupe Berkem announces 2022 sales of €51.8m (+12.4 1Q6)

Ripe kiwi fruit on a branch on a plantation.

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, today announces its consolidated sales for the year ending December 31, 2022. 

Olivier FAHY, Chairman and CEO of the Berkem Group, comments : "Despite a 2022 financial year marked by an inflationary context and persistent geopolitical tensions, the Berkem Group has managed to stay on course and continue its growth momentum, well on the way to achieving its 2024 objectives. This was made possible by strategic investments, notably in Lixol, which performed well over the period as a whole. In the fourth quarter, we also strengthened our international coverage by teaming up with the Barentz group, which now distributes our ingredients not only in North America, but also in Germany, Austria and German-speaking Switzerland. We also continue to be very active in launching new sustainable solutions aimed at accelerating our customers' ecological transition, as demonstrated by our new Ki'Leaft product. In 2023, we intend to reinforce our growth and will remain attentive to any external growth opportunities that may arise."

In October 2022, the Berkem Group announced an exclusive partnership in North America - effective November 1, 2022 - with the company Barentz, for the distribution of the Group's sustainable ingredients in the "Health, Beauty & Nutrition" market. This exclusive collaboration was extended in November 2022, with Barentz also becoming the exclusive distributor of the Berkem Group's sustainable ingredients in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. 3 In November 2022, the Group announced the launch of a new active ingredient, Ki'Leaft, on the "Health, Beauty & Nutrition" market. Ki'Leaft is a cosmos-certified 100% kiwi leaf extract of natural origin, upcycled and produced locally close to the Berkem Group's extraction plant in the Dordogne.

The Group confirms its ambition to achieve sales of at least 65 million euros by 2024, which could be increased to at least 85 million euros in the event of external growth operations. By the same date, the Group aims to achieve an Ebitda margin of around 25%.

Axilone opens a new production site in Catalonia

Buoyed by the dynamism of the perfume and skincare markets in the Luxury Goods sector, as well as its customers' growing interest in aluminum, an infinitely recyclable material, Axilone decided to significantly increase production capacity at its Sant Pere de Torellô site in Catalonia.

The investment takes the form of a new production site, located in the immediate vicinity of the current site. It will cover an area of around 12,000 m2 and should eventually double the capacity currently available.
Construction of the new plant will start in the first half of this year. The new plant is scheduled to go into production in early 2025.
The new plant will be entirely powered by certified green energy, as is the current production site.

Biolie opens an office in Houston

Capitalizing on nearly 20 years of research on enzymatic extraction, Biolie is a French company specialized in the development of natural, active and functional ingredients for the cosmetics, nutraceutical and nutrition-health markets. Thanks to the patented enzymatic extraction technology, the products are manufactured without the use of organic solvents, in a biorefinery concept.
Each fraction of the plant is recovered as a natural ingredient or converted into energy in a "zero waste" concept. Biolie offers a "clean" alternative to traditional solvent-intensive processes for markets looking for natural, authentic, healthy products with high nutritional value on the one hand and "eco-responsible" processes on the other.

Today, Biolie is pleased to announce the official opening of its North American office in Houston, Texas. Jordan Yeboah, a technical sales engineer, will be Biolie's first US-based representative. He will be able to support companies in their projects involving natural and upcycled ingredients. This is an opportunity for the company to get closer to its current American customers and to establish new partnerships. Currently, 40% of Biolie's sales are exported, of which only 6% are in the United States. The company's intention is to develop further in the US market, the largest cosmetic market in the world, with the support of ChemSpec Ltd, Biolie's exclusive US distributor.

Biolie's new US office will promote and provide a variety of
of natural cosmetic ingredients approved and certified Cosmos, obtained via an eco-process of enzymatic extraction without solvent:
- Aqueous actives (conservation boosters, soothing, anti-pollution, anti-aging/whitening, moisturizing, antioxidants, skin repair, firming/anti-stretch mark)

- Vegetable oils (Mirabelle kernel oil, Vosges fir seed oil,
Chicory seed oil, Beech seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Hemp seed oil)

- Natural colored oils (oils that add color to formulations with antioxidant activity)

- Active plant waters (Cosmos certified fruit extracts that can partially or totally replace water in a formulation with microbiota-friendly or antioxidant activity)

- Botanical extracts

These ranges of ingredients are based on upcycled and recovered co-products from the food industry, forestry and plant care. With the largest portfolio of upcycled cosmetic ingredients in France, Biolie's ambition is to become a worldwide reference, especially in the USA.

Specialized in co-product sourcing and ingredient development, Biolie also offers custom development without Moq.

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