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Texture at the service of a sensory signature

Cosmogen has explored the various options for texturizing applicators, as a means of differentiating brands and enriching the user experience. In particular, using 3D metal printing technology.

Cosmogen is exploring Metal 3D printing technology, as yet unseen in the world of cosmetics. This technology is particularly interesting from a production point of view, as it enables us to develop a unique, customized applicator quickly, while adding an original, unique dimension to the sensorial experience. The patented Fresh tube is designed for lip and eye care. The cold applicator, immersed in its tube, extracts a moderate dose of the formula thanks to its reliefs. Available in PCR; recyclable tube; refill possible. Still at the concept stage, this innovation has already met with great success among brands keen to differentiate themselves.

Continuous mixing by Gericke

Mixing several powders or granules is a frequent operation in all areas of industry.

Batch or batch mixing technology is preferred when production requires frequent recipe changes, either in terms of the number of ingredients or the variation in proportions.

On the one hand, the continuous mixer is essential when the downstream process is continuous: feeding an extruder, a packaging machine, a continuous dryer... but also when a compact solution is required to facilitate cleaning operations. The average residence time of products in the mixing chamber is around 30 seconds. For example, a mixer with a chamber volume of 50 liters, which is easy to clean, can handle a flow of 5 m3/h depending on revenue.

This compactness also makes it possible to mix ingredients incorporated in very low proportions (less than 1 per 1,000), while achieving the very high, reliable mixing qualities required in the pharmaceutical industry.

The short dwell time coupled with the very low rotation speed of the rotor blades will be a decisive advantage when mixing fragile products.

Gericke has been manufacturing batch and continuous mixers for over 80 years, with installations worldwide. In the vast majority of cases, preliminary tests are carried out in one of Gericke's stations, enabling customers to validate the quality of the mixed product.

TNT Global Manufacturing & TNT Promo sublimate By Far Dayream

TNT Global Manufacturing and TNT Promo have combined their expertise and know-how to bring the By Far Dayream refillable Eaux de Parfum collection to perfection.

Two lacquered aluminum shells and a zamac collar adorn this bottle. The embossed logo and charmille texture on the zamac collar mark the packaging. The use of Pok inserts in the collar and hull were essential to ensure that this nomadic accessory would stay put. The weighted hull insert is made of PP.

A stainless steel key allows the base shell to be opened for bottle change or new personalization. For the ultimate in personalization, the base shells and caps are available in 6 colors, and the collar in 2 finishes: ecoating gold and shiny white bronze galvanization + varnish. 

The 4 elements are supplied separately for maximum flexibility in packaging management.

TNT Global Manufacturing's development teams have devised a clever locking system to ensure the integrity of this pack, designed as a mobile, on-the-go fashion accessory. 

Restocking will also be handled by TNT Global Manufacturing.  

Last but not least, TNT Promo has created the Vip box and display unit, which showcases hulls, covers and key-rings, as well as the Duo boxes, which contain two hulls in different colors and two refills.

The limited edition Vip display box is in pink lacquered MDF with a double opening, a large interior mirror, the By Far gold signature and orange leather closing tabs.

The placement of the products has been carefully studied to ensure the balance of the box when the two panels are opened on the top and front.

The inside of the top panel features several compartments, each with a hook and belt to hold various accessories.

All wedges on the lower part are removable, making this box infinitely reusable.

Duo boxes are made from cardboard lined with FSC paper, and feature contrasting orange and fuchsia-colored inner liners. A real vitamin concentrate!

Céline Paillier, new president and a female 100% board

Cosmet'in Lyon, at its Annual General Meeting on September 29, 2022, elected Céline Paillier as its new President. She succeeds Nico Forraz who, since 2019, has strengthened the international reach of this Lyon-based trade association. She will be surrounded by Sabine Pain, Vice-President; Aurélie Pagnon, Treasurer; Agnès Lavoix, Secretary; and Anne Charpentier, Assistant Secretary; all experts in a particular cosmetology sector. Marie-Christine Di Murro continues to provide administrative and operational management.

Cosmet'in Lyon promotes the dermocosmetology resources and skills of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region to the global beauty industry. For 60 years, the association has organized round tables, conferences, training courses and meetings of the highest scientific level, such as the Skin Science Daysthe renowned European Dermocosmetology Days, which bring together experts in the field of dermocosmetology. every two years, giving them access to the latest advances in applied research.

'Exposome: Healty life for a healthy Skin " will be the theme of the XXXIst edition of the Skin Science Days Cosmet'in Lyon, Thursday February 2 and Friday February 3, 2023 at L'ENS Lyon. Information to come on the website.


Since 1962, Cosmet'in Lyon has been a scientific association, human and accessible, professional and expert. Respect, solidarity and sharing, as well as excellence, innovation and scientific rigor, are at the heart of its project and actions. The association has some 100 members and is supported by a number of partners. It also supports CosmetoPack/CosmeBoost and co-organizes Cosmetotest with Smetotest and Skinobs.

Agenda

11-10-2022: 17th SFC Meeting in Lyon

11-17-2022: Solid Cosmetics Theme Day

 

Interview with Céline Paillier

What does Cosmet'in Lyon mean to you?

Céline Paillier : The Aura region is at the heart of a growing dynamic in the skin biology and cosmetics sector. For the past 60 years, Cosmet'in Lyon has been bringing together academic researchers and manufacturers in the field of dermocosmetology. Its mission is to federate all the players in the sector (academics, manufacturers and students) at regional level, in order to highlight their innovations on the national and international scene.

What are your findings?

Céline Paillier : Innovation is a value shared by all regional players, not just university researchers, but industrialists too! The aim is to provide answers to the problems encountered by the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics industry, healthcare professionals and consumers alike. Our region, which encompasses 12 départements and ranks second only to Ile de France in economic terms, has immense resources. I believe it is vital to strengthen interactions and cooperation within our region, and to raise the profile of all its dermocosmetology talent.

What do you hope to achieve during this mandate?

Céline Paillier : Under the impetus of its previous presidents, and more recently Nico Forraz, Cosmet'in LYON has become an international reference. My objective is to multiply synergies between its members by relying on more regular digital communication, while prioritizing human relations, a founding element of the association, through events, roundtables, meetings, etc. Since Cosmet'in Lyon deals with all current topics related to dermocosmetology, we will define together the main guidelines that will guide our action plan in favor of reasoned, effective and beneficial dermocosmetology research. Ensuring coherence and adopting a holistic approach seems essential to me. The Cil Skin Science Days on the Exposome, in February 2023, will illustrate this perfectly.

Céline Paillier has been BioMeca's Business Development Director since 2018. Her mission is to structure the organization and develop the company's sales and commercial partnerships, particularly internationally, drawing on her scientific background and recognized skills: customer relations, sales, project management and team management. She previously worked as an independent business development consultant, after starting her career as a team manager at Cogenics Genome Express.

Lumson and biotherm for aquapower advanced gel

Two names for one great product. On one side Biotherm, the famous international brand, and on the other Lumson, the Italian leader in primary packaging and distribution systems for the cosmetics industry, and in the middle Aquapower Advanced Gel Homme.   

Aquapower Advanced Gel Homme is an ultra-moisturizing skin care product for men. Thanks to its proven experience in airless systems, Lumson has created exclusive packaging: a glass airless with a pouch system that protects the formula from contamination and guarantees optimal product distribution. 

The shape of water 

For Biotherm, the shape of beauty is inspired by water. The design of the new airless packaging is the perfect combination of aesthetics and functionality. The bottle's square shape, softened by rounded edges, gives the impression of having been created by the flow of ocean waves. The color - the brand's emblematic green - evokes freshness and hydration, two of the gel's benefits. Sensoriality is also a distinctive feature of the packaging developed for Biotherm. The airless bottle features a soft-touch finish that makes it pleasant to the touch and protects it from fingerprints, while reflecting the Gel's mattifying effect. The solution's sustainable footprint gives it added value: it uses 40 % of recycled glass, while the pump and cap are both styrene-free. The packaging developed for Aquapower Gel is part of a new range of square-shaped airless solutions that share their shape and finish, and have been developed in different formats (50, 75, 100 ml) and colors, which Biotherm has chosen to use in some cases as repackaging for products already in their collection, and in other cases for new Homme products.

Lumson technology and know-how 

Thanks to the multi-layer pouch and patented hermetic closure system, Lumson airless pouch systems are the epitaph of Lumson's aesthetic research and technology. 

Solutions that offer, in addition to formula safety, functionality (perfect product distribution) and sustainability (from the use of recycled glass to the possibility of separating the various packaging components and disposing of them using the appropriate recycling channel). 

Another aspect to consider is the multitude of customization options. The shapes and materials available, combined with the finishes and decorations that can be applied, give brands the opportunity to choose the solution that best suits their needs, enhancing the character and personality of each product. 

Lumson will be present at the next Luxe Pack Monaco 2022, which takes place from October 3 to 5 at the Grimaldi Forum Monaco, Hall Ravel - stand RD05.

Innov'alliance organizes the first naturalness days

The Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster is organizing the first Journées de la Naturalité, a business convention dedicated to professionals from the agricultural, agri-food, cosmetics, nutraceutical, fragrance and flavor industries; interacting across the entire value chain, from agricultural production to product processing. Two hundred naturalness players and experts are expected at the Palais des Papes in Avignon for the Journées de la Naturalité.

The first Journées de la Naturalité are organized around a number of key events, with several objectives in mind:

- Generate new business relationships and initiate partnerships between professionals, within the framework of a business convention and BtoB meetings. These targeted meetings put Naturalité players in touch with each other and contribute to the ecosystem's performance. Participants registered for the Journées de la Naturalité can schedule their BtoB meetings online from September 26.

- Disseminate technical and scientific news with a program of conferences and round tables dedicated to naturalness, a development lever with very high economic and societal potential for companies. Topics to be addressed include consumer perceptions and expectations, foodification of well-being, sustainable sourcing and agroecology, the benefits of Agritech for developing naturalness, how to reformulate natural products, integrating biotechnologies into industrialization processes, upcycling opportunities for new ingredients and formulations, etc. The results of large-scale surveys on the consumption and promotion of naturalness will also be presented.

- Share the Livre Blanc de la Naturalité économique, a reference work that lays the foundations of the concept by proposing a stabilized definition, the fruit of theoretical reflection and practical study. The Livre Blanc de la Naturalité économique provides strategic recommendations and actions for companies wishing to enter the Naturalité approach and create added value. It also looks at changing consumer trends and expectations in terms of CSR commitments.

The international Cosmetic 360 trade show, a springboard for innovation, returns for its 8th edition

The world's leading event for innovation in the perfumery and cosmetics industry returns to the Carrousel du Louvre on October 12 and 13, 2022, bringing together over 220 exhibitors from 16 countries. This international show covers accelerations in a wide range of fields (sourcing, technologies, CSR, etc.), offering a 360° innovation showcase for major players, start-ups, SMEs, researchers and innovative project leaders from the 4 corners of the globe. This 8th edition will be held under the banner of technological revolutions, driven in particular by the rise of artificial intelligence.

Artificial intelligence in the spotlight for this 8e edition. Discover AI throughout the show with :  

  • An "AI for Cosmetics" village hosted by the Ile-de-France region and the Choose Paris Region attraction agency
  • The AI TechCorner, where a CNRS laboratory will present a skin diagnostic tool that will enable the development of personalized products,
  • The Open Innovation IA program by CHANEL, L'OREAL, LVMH Research, joined for the first time by Pharma & Beauty Group,
  • The IA Jury's "Coup de Coeur" prize for the Cosmetic 360 Awards to reward a notable innovation among exhibitors.
  • A program of conferences dedicated to Artificial Intelligence (sponsor: Ecomundo) based on 4 themes: 
    • Artificial intelligence and society
    • Artificial intelligence and the environment 
    • Artificial intelligence and marketing
    • Artificial intelligence and industrial performance
  • A SupplyChain4ResponsibleBeauty hackathon (sponsor: Groupe Deret). 
  • The Greentech experience: Thanks to virtual reality, take to the skies in the Greentech hot-air balloon for a journey through time that will take you through the history of cosmetic ingredients, from prehistory to today's connected beauty.
  • An "AI for Cosmetics" village hosted by the Ile-de-France region and the Choose Paris Region attraction agency
  • The AI TechCorner, where a CNRS laboratory will present a skin diagnostic tool that will enable the development of personalized products,
  • The Open Innovation IA program by CHANEL, L'OREAL, LVMH Research, joined for the first time by Pharma & Beauty Group,
  • The IA Jury's "Coup de Coeur" prize for the Cosmetic 360 Awards to reward a notable innovation among exhibitors.
  • A program of conferences dedicated to Artificial Intelligence (sponsor: Ecomundo) based on 4 themes: 
    • Artificial intelligence and society
    • Artificial intelligence and the environment 
    • Artificial intelligence and marketing
    • Artificial intelligence and industrial performance
  • A SupplyChain4ResponsibleBeauty hackathon (sponsor: Groupe Deret). 
  • The Greentech experience: Thanks to virtual reality, take to the skies in the Greentech hot-air balloon for a journey through time that will take you through the history of cosmetic ingredients, from prehistory to today's connected beauty.

The show's other spearheads

If AI is a highlight of 2022, COSMETIC 360 will be the scene of many innovations with two other flagship themes: 

  • Eco-responsibility with new resource-saving cosmetics solutions: solid cosmetics, bio-sourced formulations, upcycling.
  • Wellness with wellness innovations combining cosmetics, neuroscience and new sensorial ingredients.

Discover also

  • The Cosmetopeai zone, where two European projects will be presented. AgriWaste Value and InnCoCells concern, respectively, co-products from arboriculture and viticulture for cosmetics, and the development of natural raw materials for the industry.
  • The Factory zone dedicated to innovative equipment manufacturers.
  • Start-up village with 30 innovative young companies (sponsor Beauty Tech Chartres).
  • More international buyers to meet on the Business France / Team France export stand.

COSMETIC 360 will also welcome several delegations from international cosmetics clusters: Canada, Thailand, Taiwan, Spain, Portugal, Italy, the UK, Colombia, South Korea, and France, including the local authority of Martinique.

Two new Eri 360°-labeled ingredients for Gattefossé

Face of Caucasian woman looking at camera

In 2021, the Gattefossé group will label three key active ingredients in its cosmetics portfolio, Gatuline Link n Lift, Gatuline Renew and EnergiNius under the Eri 360° label. To build on this momentum, the company has announced the labeling of two new major cosmetic ingredients: Gatuline RC Bio and EleVastin.

And this time, all at Silver level!

Eri 360°: more than just a label

A natural extract of beech buds, this active ingredient is a veritable elixir of youth, responding to the skin's natural needs. Moisturized, energized and smoothed, skin radiates beauty and health. Beech buds are harvested in France, in areas close to the Gattefossé group's production site in Saint-Priest. A proximity that considerably reduces the carbon footprint associated with transport. The entirely manual harvest, certified organic, is a guarantee of quality with regard to the preserving biodiversity, flora and resources. Such is the case with water. Beech trees are not irrigated, and the buds, frozen directly on site to avoid enzymatic degradation, do not need to be washed. It's important to note that buds are harvested in limited quantities, from low branches, in order to avoid any damage to the tree's future development. This plant active ingredient is also obtained through a global production process that does not use no chemical solvents, from harvesting the buds to obtaining the final extract. The ingredient is Cosmos certified and displays a natural content of 96.8% according to Iso 16128.

The strengths that make EleVastin stand out

This active ingredient is the targeted solution for boosting the skin's elastic capital and combating sagging. It is derived from the leafy stems of the Murraya koenigii. In association with a long-standing local partner, the stems are hand-harvested in the protected environment of Reunion Island, on managed plots of land. no-input (without fertilizers or pesticides). A perfect traceability is guaranteed from the tree to the Gattefossé laboratories. Cultivation requires no irrigation given the island's water-rich climate. Leaves from branches cut off during pruning operations are also recovered. This makes it possible to minimize waste and have a beneficial effect on tree growth.

This active ingredient is obtained using a LTTM (Low Transition Temperature Mixture) blend of plant-derived solvents and a NaDes extraction process. The ingredient is approved Cosmos and displays a natural content of 100% according to Iso 16128.

Sustainability of raw materials, a genuine eco-responsible development strategy for the Gattefossé Group

"Our responsible and sustainable development strategy, at the heart of our CSR roadmap, starts right from the development of our ingredients. We see the ERI 360° label as a key tool for our R&D teams to optimize the sourcing of our raw materials, to integrate eco-design principles into every stage of cosmetics product development, and to manage their implementation right through to production. Biodegradability, upcycling, resource management, eco-designed packaging, etc. are all criteria we aim to constantly improve for our future developments. A commitment we share with all our customers.

We will therefore pursue Eri 360° certification for other products in our current portfolio and for future developments. explains Paula Lennon, Group Cosmetics Director.

"Gattefossé has always integrated environmental and human aspects into its entire value chain. It is this reasoned approach to our activities that we continue to develop today, as it is a powerful lever for innovation and performance for our group. Eri 360° fits in perfectly with our corporate project, Gatt'Up&Act, as it enables us to reinforce the sustainability of our ingredients, by assessing all the impacts of our production, and giving us ways of minimizing them.

This year's results are the fruit of a genuine commitment on the part of all our teams (R&D, purchasing, sourcing, production, HSE, etc.), as well as our stakeholders, who support us in this responsible approach." explains Laurent Schubnel, Group CSR Manager.

Eri360, Gattefossé ingredients awarded bronze and silver labels

Bronze: EnergiNius

Silver: Gatuline Renew, Gatuline Link n Lift, Gatuline RC Bio, EleVastin

Pierre Fabre becomes the first major industrial group to be awarded the "Exemplary" level of Afnor Certification's Committed to CSR label

The Pierre Fabre Group's CSR approach has just been recognized by the independent body AFNOR Certification at the "Exemplary" level of its Engagé RSE label (internationally recognized under the Responsibility Europe label). With an overall score of 788 points out of a total of 1,000, Pierre Fabre joins the Top 1% of 266 companies and becomes the first industrial group with over 5,000 employees to be awarded the "Exemplary" label by Afnor Certification. This result confirms the performance of the CSR approach implemented by the Group since 2019 within Green Mission Pierre Fabre.
More demanding than a self-declaration or online questionnaire, the label awarded by Afnor Certification requires the company to provide objective evidence of its control over the social, environmental and economic impacts of its activities, and to do so on site. Between April and May 2022, Afnor Certification auditors assessed all the company's departments, 3 industrial sites, a distribution site, 4 international subsidiaries, 3 dermo-cosmetics brands (Eau Thermale Avène, Klorane, Naturactive) and the department in charge of some of the Group's medicines. They also met with a wide range of external stakeholders (customers, suppliers, regulatory authorities, local authorities, scientific partners).

" By placing respect for people, nature and the land above all else, our founder was a pioneer of sustainable development. Today, it's up to us to perpetuate his vision and rise to the challenges created by global warming in terms of decarbonation and naturalness. This is the ambition of Green Mission Pierre Fabre, which we launched in 2019 as part of the company's transformation plan. For us, it was essential to have the initial results of this approach assessed by an independent certifying body in order to objectify our performance and identify our avenues for improvement. Transparency and continuous improvement are at the heart of our approach. "says Eric Ducournau, General Manager of the Pierre & Vacances Group.
Fabre.

The Engagé RSE label examines more than 50 criteria grouped around 5 general themes - CSR vision and associated governance, operational implementation of CSR strategy, human resources and working conditions, sustainable production and consumption methods, territorial anchorage and local development - to which are added 3 results themes: environmental results, social results and economic results. For each of these 8 themes and criteria, Pierre Fabre scored above 75%, with peaks of 87% for territorial anchorage and 82% for social indicators.

" The Pierre Fabre Group is further consolidating its long-standing commitment to sustainable development, in line with the company's mission as envisioned by its founder. Moving from a logic of controlling negative impacts to one of optimizing positive societal impacts is a reality, and the company has truly demonstrated the relevance of its thinking in this area. "commented Muriel Lassus-Pigat, independent CSR Assessor for Afnor Certification, in her audit conclusions.
In its audit report, Afnor Certification's assessors highlighted a number of strong points, including :
- The creation of the cross-functional Green Mission Pierre Fabre and its direct reporting to General Management
- Ensuring that the Ethics Charter is clearly visible and regularly updated
- Strong regional roots
- Decarbonization policy
- Attention to stakeholders
- HR training and internal mobility policies
- The international employee share ownership plan
- Responsible sourcing of plants used by the Group
- The design and international deployment of the Green Impact Index, a tool for measuring the eco-socio-design of products.
- The development of a solvent-free extraction technology (Green Native Expression).

" This labeling at the highest level of the Engagé RSE label is in line with the assessments we have had carried out regularly by independent bodies since 2012. We have given new impetus to our CSR and naturalness approach with the creation of Green Mission Pierre Fabre in 2019, and it was our duty to draw up an initial assessment after 3 years of mobilizing all energies within the company. The assessment carried out by AFNOR Certification also opens up new avenues for progress. I'm thinking, for example, of a better integration of CSR criteria in our purchasing, the reinforcement of CSR training in our international subsidiaries and the development of a more ambitious sobriety strategy. "said Florence Guillaume, Green Mission Director at Pierre Fabre.

BSB Environment Innovation Award - Lipoid Kosmetik's PhytoCollagen wins another award

Lipoid Kosmetik is a leading manufacturer of high quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetic and personal care industry. Following the success of the 20th BSB Innovation Awards last spring, we are pleased to announce that our new active ingredient, PhytoCollagen plant collagen, has been awarded the 2nd prize in the BSB Innovation Award Environment in the category of raw material protection and skin hydration. The BSB Innovation Award Environment aims to promote innovation in the fields of cosmetics and natural products and rewards finished products, production processes and raw materials with a positive impact on the environment. The international jury awarded a "strong eco-social impact" to the vegan and sustainable alternative to collagen from acacia, which has similar beauty benefits compared to animal collagen. We are very pleased with the great success of PhytoCollagen, as it confirms our continuous effort to develop new and innovative products that also have a positive impact in terms of sustainability.

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