At the in-Cosmetics Global trade show to be held from April 8 to 10, 2025 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, Laboratoires Expanscience will be presenting the new hair care properties of three of its flagship natural active ingredients: Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia. This breakthrough is in line with the trend towards hair skinification and with the company's CSR strategy, in line with its "impACT" roadmap, which aims to make Expanscience a regenerative company by 2040.

Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia are already recognized for their actions on the skin. These active ingredients have been re-targeted to meet the hair care challenges posed by climate change, notably global warming and increased environmental pollution.

Soline Bio, an organic sunflower oil concentrate, sourced in France and rich in unsaponifiables, has already proven its benefits on the skin by reinforcing key skin lipids, notably ceramides, for immediate and long-lasting hydration. New tests ex-vivo Expanscience confirms that Soline Bio protects hair from the harmful effects of the sun and salt water (summer stress). By protecting the scales, Soline Bio facilitates detangling, adds softness and suppleness, while significantly reducing breakage. Hair is silkier and lastingly protected.

Ormesia is an upcycled extract of maracuja seeds, sourced in Peru and rich in polyphenols. It has proven its effectiveness in protecting the skin from the deleterious effects of pollution and UV rays, by stimulating its natural self-defense mechanisms. Applied to hair care products, this active ingredient acts as an anti-pollution shield. "Ex-vivo tested on strands damaged by Arizona Dust¹It preserves hair shine and vitality while ensuring better color hold for color-treated hair, right from the 1st wash.says Laboratoires Expanscience. What's more, it helps strengthen the hair fiber, reducing breakage.

Pixalia, extracted from Cleome gynandra leaves and rich in polyphenols, acts to rebalance the skin's microbiota, in particular by acting on the specific lipids that mark acne. For dry skin, it regulates sebum production and quality. Applied to scalp care, Pixalia promotes a healthy microbiota by specifically targeting Malassezia restricta.²one of the main yeasts responsible for dandruff formation. It helps maintain a soothed, purified and healthy scalp. "After 28 days of use, 90.3 % of those surveyed found that dandruff was less visible, and 77.4 % felt less stressed by the condition of their scalp.³ "says Laboratoires Expanscience.

Each year, 1% of Pixalia's sales are donated to the Joséphine association, France's leading network of community beauty salons.

"With Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia, we are reaffirming our commitment to ever more sustainable, innovative and high-performance cosmetics. By capitalizing on our scientific studies on the skin, we are adding value to these active ingredients by complementing their efficacy to explore all their benefits. It's a responsible, meaningful and effective approach that meets market expectations while reducing our environmental impact.says Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Cosmetic Active Ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience.

At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025, Roquette Beauté unveiled its new ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 305, an alternative to mineral and synthetic powders.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 (Inci Amylopectin), responds to market trends and consumer demand for longer-lasting, high-performance cosmetics. This ingredient, derived from GMO-free waxy corn starch, comes in the form of a biodegradable white sensory powder, free from talc and nanoparticles.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 boasts a patent-pending porous structure obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, giving it exceptional compacting properties compared with other natural powders on the market.

The sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, as well as its affinity with various oils and water, give cosmetics formulators the flexibility to create innovative, high-performance products in a wide range of cosmetic applications, including make-up, skin care, hygiene products, hair care and fragrances, in either loose or compact formats.

Maintaining color integrity 

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 stands out for its ability to maintain color integrity. Roquette Beauté states that "during tests¹This ingredient has demonstrated superior color retention, outperforming native corn starch and matching the performance of talc and porous silica beads. This benefit minimizes the need for additional pigments, making it an economical and attractive solution for make-up products. In addition, Beauté by Roquette ST 305¹ is brighter than talc, silica and porous silica, while being less yellow than other natural sensory powders derived from native corn starch."

Matte finish and shine control 

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 has the ideal mattifying power for cosmetics with a matte finish, such as lipsticks. Test results² have demonstrated, according to Roquette Beauté, that "this sensory powder significantly reduces shine, providing a flawless matte finish to make-up products. In foundation formulas, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 reduced shine by 96 % compared with a placebo.³. "

According to Roquette Beauté, its sebum absorption capacity³ are also superior to those of native corn starch and silica beads, and comparable to those of poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA).

What's more, at a concentration of 65 % in a loose powder formulation, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 proved capable of smoothing crow's feet, blurring the eye contour and improving skin texture, guaranteeing a flawless, youthful appearance.

"We are very proud to add Beauté by Roquette ST 305 to our range.says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. This new ingredient is a real game-changer, responding to the growing demand from the cosmetics industry for high-quality plant-derived ingredients. The exceptional sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, and its affinity with various oils and water, give formulators the flexibility to create high-performance products in a wide variety of cosmetic applications."

The Roquette Beauté team has designed exclusive formulations highlighting Beauté by Roquette ST 305, to enable visitors to in-Cosmetics Global to discover the sensory and compaction properties of this new ingredient on their stand 5D130.

_{1. The impact of sensory powders on the color and brightness of a formula was measured using a BYK spectrophotometer. L represents color brightness on a scale from 0 to 100.}

_{2. The cling test was measured using the Byko-Charts protocol.}

_{3. For the study of sebum absorption, sebum was modeled by caprylic/capric triglyceride oil. This oil was chosen because it approximates the natural oils produced by the skin, enabling a realistic assessment of the powder's performance in controlling shine and maintaining a matte finish.}