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The Fusion Bottle, a tribute to the art of master glassmakers

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To celebrate the manufacture's centenary, the Studio Design Lalique, under the direction of Marc Larminaux, has created an exceptional piece: the Flacon Fusion. This piece was made possible by the master glassmakers, who went to the extreme limits of their know-how.

In addition, an original juice imagined by master perfumer Alexis Dedier of the Robertet house in Grasse pays homage to the incandescence of crystal.

A tribute work representing the paraison, the name given by master glassmakers to the drop of incandescent material they pluck, with a cane, from a fountain of molten crystal. The Fusion bottle in amber crystal, the color of the fire in which it was born, adopts this "bubble" shape. The bottle is prolonged by the slender line of a stopper in silky black crystal, evoking a picking cane, as if in a workshop.

Finally, a colorless crystal frieze refers to a "mailloche", the ladle that collects the crystal drop to round it off.

The frieze is delicately decorated with a fern motif, a plant figure dear to René Lalique's heart, but which also refers to crystal manufacturing: the distilled ash of this plant is used to obtain potash, indispensable to glassmakers for lowering the crystal's melting temperature. Potash is also used to impart density, sonority and brilliance.

Created in just 10 pieces, the Flacon Fusion represented a real challenge, especially when it came to working with the crystal in different colors (colorless, black and amber), making this piece extremely delicate to handle.

An exclusive fragrance

To celebrate its crystal century in style, this original juice, created by master perfumer Alexis Dedier of the Robertet house in Grasse, France, reinvents amber in a way that is as seductive as it is daring, combining rare and precious natural ingredients.

CO2 pepper, ambrette, plant musk, rose and iris embody the brilliance of crystal. The ambrette head introduces the luxurious, powdery, woody iris butter, and the white musk base gives the Flacon Fusion its airy purity.

Amber, echoing the color of the bottle, is combined with an essence of bitter almond and tonka bean absolute with nuances of hay and tobacco.

Cereal absolutes: an evocation of the fire where crystal is born. Lightly toasted, cereal absolutes (wheat, sesame, wheat bran...) are rarely used in perfumery.

Sweet, honeyed orange blossom, as satiny as Lalique crystal, envelops this subtle composition in sensuality.

Scentys opens a subsidiary in the United States

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Scentys, a pioneer and major player in the design of fragrance delivery systems, has opened its first foreign subsidiary, in New York (USA), in March 2022.

This new entity, Scentys Inc, offers customers greater proximity and responsiveness for all their fragrance diffusion projects, and strengthens Scentys' presence in the US market, a strategic market due to its size, dynamism and the presence of multinational fragrance companies. 

Loic Remoussenard has been appointed head of this new subsidiary. As Managing Director Scentys Inc.He is responsible for sales development in the US market, and can interact directly with the company's customers on an ongoing basis.

The aim is to use Scentys technology to offer innovative solutions and tailor-made service in line with the trends and needs of the American market.

Quadpack expands its manufacturing capacity in Europe

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The editorial staff
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Quadpack, the international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, is investing over 6 million euros in its Kierspe plant in Germany, to meet growing market demand. The investments are aimed at creating a decoration center and reinforcing its injection and assembly capacities. Quadpack is already a reference in thick-wall PET injection molding, and aims to become an industry benchmark in sustainable manufacturing and decoration.

Skin care is expected to grow by 10 % in 2022, in the optimistic climate that the industry is experiencing. Market studies indicate growth potential for "clean beauty" skin and hair care, as well as for business segments such as dermo-cosmetics. The Quadpack plant in Kierspe is in the process of expanding to meet growing demand, particularly for airless packaging, and decoration services have been brought in-house to accelerate time-to-market. Sales at the plant in 2022 are expected to increase in line with growth in 2021, which recorded an increase of 25 % over the previous year.

Investments include increasing staff numbers, installing new molds and injection machines, and optimizing assembly equipment through Industry 4.0. An industrial process management system (MES) is being implemented to improve production lead times, supply chain efficiency and agility, while optimizing control of manufacturing operations. The MES will be connected to the SAP S4/HANA Cloud in 2023 as part of the company's digital transformation.

When the project is completed, production capacity will be increased for all current product categories. Airless capacities will be the most concerned.

With the acquisition of decorating specialist Stefan Wicklein Kunststoffveredelung GmbH in Steinbach am Wald in 2021, Quadpack will be able to offer expert decorating know-how and services at its Steinbach and Kierspe plants, with 900 m2 of dedicated decorating facilities.

To ensure sustainable production, Quadpack's plants rely on 100 % renewable energy and follow an ongoing waste reduction program. The Kierspe plant holds an EcoVadis Silver Medal and is ISCC certified. SAN and SMMA production is gradually switching to PET and rPET plastics to improve recyclability. Quadpack is also testing different decoration techniques and working with ink, varnish and film suppliers to find more sustainable materials.

"Our Kierspe plant is already a center of PET injection expertise, helping us to achieve our sustainability goals. We can now add our decorating expertise, to reduce transport, improve Scope 3 CO2 emissions and speed up production times.explains Fabrice Revert, COO of Quadpack. Demand for our "Made in Europe" solutions is growing as the market recovers and environmental awareness increases. Our investments in Germany bring production closer to the majority of our customers. Our aim is to continue improving our customer service while exerting a positive impact on our planet."

Ingredient regulations and new trends in the health and beauty sectors deciphered at the Pharmatech Cosmetech trade show

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Pharmatech Cosmetech will be held on May 31, 1 and 2.er and June 2, 2022 at the Parc des expositions de Chartres - Chartrexpo. 

After more than two years of a pandemic that turned consumer habits upside down, many manufacturers have had to adapt and reinvent themselves. The health and beauty sectors are no exception - quite the contrary. From manufacturers to laboratories to end-sellers, each trade has seen its working methods evolve. Some of these new requirements and consumer practices will disappear, while others will endure. Pharmatech Cosmetech has enlisted the help of experts to provide a clearer picture of these new trends.

Trends in 2022 under the expert eye of Nutrimarketing

In the Ingredients Village, prescribers and operational decision-makers from the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and organic industries can attend 30-minute mini-conferences organized by Nutrimarketing, a maketing and nutrition consultancy firm.

From the influence of Covid-19 on consumer behavior to new galenic formulations, the rise of e-commerce and new distribution channels, "new shopping experiences" and new ingredients, Nutrimarketing will offer precise and concise decipherments:

  • Nutricosmetics: market trends and opportunities :
    Driven by an aging population, but also by younger generations, and exacerbated by the pandemic, the nutricosmetics market is expected to reach 8.3 billion $ in 2027. Here's a look at the latest innovations. Tuesday May 31, 2022 from 4:30 pm to 5:00 pm.
  • New beauty routines and cosmetic trends: 
    The cosmetics market has been profoundly affected by confinement, telecommuting and the wearing of masks, as well as by a growing awareness of the urgent need to save the planet and all that lives on it. Artificial intelligence at the service of cosmetics, "no/low make-up", ethics and eco-responsibility, DIY, the notion of inclusivity and committed beauty, "beauty-from-within", ageing well... these are just some of the subjects that will be addressed during these conferences. Wednesday 1ster June from 4:00 pm to 4:30 pm.
  • Health at the heart of consumer concerns:
    Following Covid-19, consumers are favoring a more holistic approach to their health, more preventive than curative, aiming to boost their immunity but also to preserve their mental health. Thus, Nutrimarketing will cover stress management, immunity, comorbidity factors but also new technologies and AI, etc. in its topics. Thursday, June 2, 2022 from 3:00 pm to 3:30 pm.

Focus on ingredients

For this 4e ingredients will be given pride of place at the show. Alongside the Ingredients Village, which will bring together exhibitors offering new solutions, visitors will be able to find themed conferences led by major brands such as Biorius and FSL, on the latest regulations affecting the health and cosmetics industries, as well as border products.

Visitors will be able to find out more about the new rules concerning ingredients contained in medical devices, and gain a better understanding of the obligations placed on manufacturers and subcontractors since the new European regulation 2017/745 came into force last May. Aimed in particular at strengthening the prerequisites for obtaining medical CE marking and the level of demonstration of benefit-risk for medical devices (MDs), as well as closer monitoring throughout their life, this regulation has an even greater impact as it also applies to MDs already on the market.
Tuesday May 31, 2022 from 11:00 to 12:00 - Conference hosted by Biorius.

Katia Merten-Lentz, from FSL, will discuss issues linked to the regulation of novel foods in borderline products (care and hygiene products; comfort products and food supplements; diagnostic products...). Every year, thousands of new products are brought to market with modified "recipes". Ingredients or foodstuffs for which human consumption has hitherto been negligible, novel foods are often included. Since 1997, they have been subject to an authorization procedure, which guarantees their safety before they can be marketed.
Wednesday 1er June from 11:00 to 12:00 - Conference hosted by FSL.

For its part, the Innovalliance cluster will discuss the ERI 360° approach, which evaluates the eco-responsible practices of cosmetic ingredient production chains derived from living organisms, using an analysis grid based on 100 Smart indicators (specific, measurable, achievable, recognized and transparent). This approach enables ingredient suppliers in the aromatic and cosmetics industries committed to rationalizing and limiting their social and environmental impacts to obtain a label.
Thursday, June 2, 2022 from 10:30 to 11:00 a.m. - Conference hosted by Innovalliance.

Ozalys: certified products for pregnant and nursing women

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The editorial staff
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Ozalys, a brand committed to women's health, certifies the safety of its range. Building on its expertise - offering products for vulnerable women - Ozalys continues to develop and validate its range for pregnant and breast-feeding women. 

A new commitment to public health

We all know that the environment in which we live, our diet and pollution all have an impact on our health. For pregnant women, it's essential to protect themselves and their babies... Aware of the risks, many pregnant women are (even) more careful about the cosmetics they use.

In reality, few women are aware that regulations do not require cosmetic products to be validated for safety in pregnant women, unless their use is claimed...

So how do you sort them out? How do you identify which essential oils and phytoestrogens to avoid? How do you track down ingredients, natural or otherwise, suspected of being hazardous to health, of interacting with the hormonal system and/or of crossing the placental barrier?

Ozalys now affixes a "pregnant woman" logo to all its products, certifying the safety of its range during pregnancy, a period of vulnerability to many substances.

" Designed for women weakened by illness, we naturally continue our commitment to women's health.. Our expertise and highly-conceived formulations have enabled us to obtain certification for our hygiene and moisturizing products for pregnant and breastfeeding women. With this certification, we are proud to be able to offer everyday care products to women at key stages in their lives".explains Isabelle Guyomarch, founder of Laboratoire Ozalys. 

Innovation for beauty: a unique and innovative formulation charter

With a formulation charter that excludes substances that can interact with the hormonal system and photo-sensitizing ingredients, Ozalys aims to become a woman's ally for life!

The Ozalys formulation charter goes beyond regulations, tracking down phthalates, plasticizers and heavy metals right down to the container-content interaction.

Cosmogen: an eco-designed spatula for Carita Paris' Cristal Morphologic skincare products

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editocom
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Carita Paris chose Cosmogen's eco-designed spatula made from a single piece of r-PET, dyed deep black throughout. Its streamlined shape enables a dab of the pink tourmaline-based formula to be removed in a hygienic way, following the brand's advice.

Cosmogen offers tailor-made eco-designed accessories, whose life cycle is analyzed by in-house software, to help brands make an informed decision to offer a product that is both expert, safe and ecological.

Ecodesign of packaging: six winners selected in Citeo's call for projects

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editocom
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While many cosmetic packages benefit from recyclable solutions (tubes, glass and plastic bottles, cardboard boxes), others have no existing recyclable options on the market. In order to support the actors concerned in this approach, Citeo (a company with a mission created by companies in the consumer goods and distribution sector to reduce the environmental impact of their packaging and paper) and its subsidiary Adelphe launched a call for sectoral projects in early 2022 in order to find concrete solutions to better eco-design packaging in the beauty and cosmetics sector.

Supporting manufacturers in the development of innovative solutions

Through this new call for projects, Citeo and Adelphe wish to study the technical, environmental and economic conditions for changing the design of household packaging in the beauty and cosmetics sector. The selected projects aim to improve the recyclability of packaging currently made of non-recyclable plastics, in order to move towards plastic resins or other materials with a recycling channel. The projects may also include other eco-design actions such as lightweighting or reuse, provided that recyclability is maintained or improved. In the long term, this work should help manufacturers develop new and innovative solutions, from R&D to prototyping, to industrialization and marketing of packaging.

The expected duration of the projects is between 12 and 18 months. Citeo and Adelphe are providing 50 % of funding. In addition to the evolution of packaging, Citeo and Adelphe will provide their expertise to the winners to ensure that the options studied will not have an impact on the other packaging flows coming out of the sorting center so as not to degrade their quality.

Six winning projects on four key themes of the beauty and cosmetics sector

Plastic bottles with pump There is no easily deployable solution to date to make PET bottles with a pump recyclable. PE or PP bottles with a pump can be recycled, with areas for improvement depending on the type of pump used. This type of packaging is therefore a priority area of work.

- The Neo Pump project, by PRP Creation, aims to develop pumps for care, make-up and hygiene products that are reusable, monomaterial (PE or PP), recyclable and produced in France by removing the metal elements present in the pumps available today.

- The Matrix project, by Elidose, intends to evaluate the relevance of developing a single-material cylindrical flexible packaging with dual functionality: that can be used as a single-use, using less material than a standard, reclosable tube, or as a refill in a glass or plastic pump bottle.

The samples The sector develops numerous samples for the general public. Many of them are available in non-recyclable packaging, and improving recyclability is a major challenge for the sector today. In addition, the Climate and Resilience Act is pushing to reinvent the way products are tested.

- The Cosmépack project, by Lactips, aims to replace the currently non-recyclable samples with samples that can be recycled in the paper/cardboard industry, using a natural polymer applied by complexing on paper/cardboard. Its dissolution in water makes it possible to recycle paper/cardboard packaging, as well as magazines, in this sector without disturbing the processes.

- Project of mini perfume spray ready for recycling by Elidose and Karza: supported by a consortium of two packaging manufacturers, this project aims to develop a new format of perfume sample in monomaterial (PE or PP) to join an existing recycling channel. Composed of a high barrier flexible packaging with a pump, it allows to reduce the amount of material used. The pump technology is already mastered, the challenge of the project is to miniaturize and integrate it into a dedicated packaging line.

The leading make-up packaging Mascara, make-up cases, lipsticks... cosmetics packaging is bound to evolve and be integrated into existing or new recycling channels.

- The RECYMakeUp project, by Albéa aims to replace materials such as ABS or SAN by PP or PET, for mascara/lip gloss packaging, lipsticks or powder cases. The objective is twofold: to work on the design of technical solutions (prototypes) compatible with the current French recycling channels and to share best practices with the entire profession (technical constraints, obstacles to development or channel requirements), in order to advance the sector.

Films about perfume boxes Two options are to be considered: the elimination of these films by making the box itself carry their function, or the development of recyclable PE or paper tubes. It is on this last axis that the winning project will work in the coming months.

- Project of transparent/translucent biosourced and recyclable paper, by Thibierge & Comar: its objective is to offer luxury brands an alternative solution to plastic films for the over-wrapping of perfume and cosmetic cases and packaging sleeves, while preserving their properties: inviolability, quality, security and hygiene. The proposed packaging is composed of transparent/translucent paper and a regenerated cellulose film, allowing the paper to be adapted to the specific constraints of the packaging. The developed substrate will be 100% biosourced and recyclable in the paper industry.

These winners were chosen by a jury of packaging and cosmetics experts.

Learn more about each project:
https://bo.citeo.com/sites/default/files/2022-04/AAP_ecoconception_cosm%C3%A9tique_laur%C3%A9ats_20220407.pdf

BDK Parfums: two new fragrances

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editocom
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BDK Parfums, an independent perfume house located in the Palais Royal district of Paris, offers singular fragrances inspired by characters, movements, allures and moments. What these creations have in common is a universe centered around words and storytelling, halfway between imaginary tales and reality.

Two new fragrances were launched on April 5: eau de parfum Villa Neroli and extrait de parfum Gris Charnel.

For the third opus in the Collection Azur, David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums, invites you to set sail and discover Capri, the Italian island in the Bay of Naples. Renowned for its beauty, unspoiled nature and charming villas, this island delights the hearts of travelers who venture there. Alexandra Carlin, creator of Velvet Tonka in the Matières Collection, shared her memories of Capri, the inspiration for Villa Néroli.

"I imagined a garden of sour orange trees in Capri (...). The acidic freshness and citrus impression in the top note are essentially due to neroli essence combined with Nerolione, a very powerful molecule with a clean scent, often used to boost orange blossom notes. Neroli is quickly replaced by orange blossom absolute, which is denser, fuller-bodied and fleshier. Its honeyed, straw-like facets echo the Bulgarian rose absolute in the heart. Then comes a comforting impression of balms and resins, thanks to Madagascar vanilla absolute and cistus labdanum, to illustrate the moistness of the air, to which is added a trio of ambox, moss and cashmeran to retranscribe the salty minerality of Faraglioni".explains Alexandra Carlin.

A woody amber fragrance launched in 2019, Gris Charnel has quickly become one of BDK Parfums' bestsellers. Its light and dark, chiaroscuro notes seduce as much as they oppose each other. Fiery cardamom contrasts with the power of black tea, iris defies cistus and tonka bean counters the sandalwood-vetiver duo. Gris Charnel eau de parfum is now available as a perfume extract, to satisfy customers looking for a deeper version.

"What I didn't want to do was simply create a more concentrated version of the original Gris Charnel. Instead, I wanted to focus on its spicy, woody facets. So, with Mathilde Bijaoui, we decided to extend the fragrance's head and base. Cardamom, already present in the eau de parfum, is magnified. Madagascar bourbon vetiver and creamy Indian sandalwood take on greater volume. Finally, the base notes of smoky Madagascar vanilla and Indonesian patchouli add even more roundness. For me, Gris Charnel Extrait magnifies the Parisian sensuality already present in Gris Charnel.says David Benedek.

"Through this second chapter, I wanted to magnify the sensuality of Gris Charnel's original signature, sculpt a trail, be even more magnetic and captivating as desired. While my first idea was to play with vanilla, its different qualities and its animalic side, it was patchouli that finally turned everything on its head, giving the power we were looking for with David. Its duo with sandalwood makes the fragrance more mysterious, more textured. With vanilla, it also forms a powerful accord that gives incredible diffusion.emphasizes Mathilde Bijaoui, Mane perfumer.

Beiersdorf announces first cosmetic product with recycled CO2

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editocom
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Nivea Men uses ethanol obtained from recycled carbon dioxide in its new moisturizing cream. 

This moisturizing cream - Nivea Men Climate Care - contains a total of 14 % of ethanol obtained by alternative methods. In addition, the formula is 100 % free of microplastics, silicones, mineral oils and PEG/PEG derivatives. This men's skin care product is climate-neutral* and manufactured using electricity from 100 % renewable sources. Its formula is 99 % biodegradable and its packaging is fully recyclable. 

Carbon Capture and Utilization (CCU) is a multi-stage CO2 recycling technology. Firstly, carbon dioxide is collected from places such as industrial smokestacks and directed into a bioreactor, where it is then fermented and converted into cosmetic ethanol. 

"This new men's skincare product featuring innovative CO2 recycling technology represents an important milestone for us, says Jean-François Pascal, Vice President Sustainable Development at Beiersdorf. The name 'Climate Care' is very apt, as our commitment to sustainable development goes far beyond our skincare products and places climate action at the heart of our approach."

"Our ambition is to offer consumers the best possible product quality at all times. To achieve this, we combine our deep scientific expertise with the latest technologies such as this type of artificial photosynthesis, says Gitta Neufang, Corporate Senior Vice President Global R&D at Beiersdorf. I'm delighted that our product developers have launched this innovative men's skincare concept with our partners, and that they have been the first in our sector to bring it to market. This is an impressive milestone that will no doubt be followed by further developments in this direction."

Beiersdorf has set itself one of the most ambitious carbon reduction targets in the industry. The company aims to achieve a Group-wide absolute reduction of 30 % in Scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions and 10 % in Scope 3 emissions by 2025 (using 2018 as a baseline). These targets have been recognized by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) and are in line with scientific demands to limit global warming to 1.5°C.

Nivea Men Climate Care moisturizer will be launched on the German market in early June 2022, starting with a limited edition in pharmacies and online retailers. 

*Offsetting of remaining CO2 emissions through certified climate projects. 

Adrien Geiger (L'Occitane) awarded by the WEG in the category CSR Commitment

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editocom
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The WEG France has rewarded Adrien Geiger, Brand Director of L'Occitane en Provence and CSO of the L'Occitane group, with an Achiever Award in the "CSR Commitment" category.

Since arriving at L'Occitane in 2014, joining the family entrepreneurial adventure, Adrien Geiger has been keen to promote innovation and commitments to more sustainable growth that benefits nature and society. Spearheading regenerative agriculture, he energetically supports projects to protect natural ecosystems, alongside the group's 10,000 employees and 15,000 partner producers, but also with players committed to biodiversity, convinced that the cosmetics industry has its part to play for a better world.

On April 12, on the occasion of the 9ᵉ edition of the WEG Achiever Awards, an evening entirely dedicated to beauty talent that brings together over 200 industry professionals every year, Adrien Geiger was awarded the "CSR Commitment" prize. From corporate careers to entrepreneurial daring, from leaders to young nuggets, the Achiever Awards recognize the dynamism, creativity, innovation and vision of the beauty players who drive the industry forward.

An international, women's and solidarity-based network, particularly active in France, the CEW initiates a network of expert and benevolent networking and enrichment, a space for sharing experiences and a humanist think-tank, towards a future of beauty that is innovative, responsible and connected to changes in society.

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