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Skinobs will host the "Boost your test" booth at in-cosmetics Global

Skinobs invites skincare creators and ingredient manufacturers to visit the booth Boost your test (#Q108), organized in collaboration with in-cosmetics Global and with the support of PHD Trials, QACS and Monasterium, in the heart of the Testing & Lab area.

The objective is to guide all visitors to the show in their evaluation process and to advise them whatever the type of preclinical test in-vitro or ex-vivo (stability, safety, container-content), or clinical (tolerance, efficacy, sensory analysis or consumer tests...), and whatever the classical or innovative claims to be evaluated. It is about helping them to identify the most adapted methods and to choose the testing laboratories that best correspond to their evaluation specifications.

Boost your test is an "information point" for visitors and a unique opportunity to discover measuring devices and the latest trends in the field of testing. To educate, inspire, share ideas and foster collaborations is the mission of in-cosmetics Global for the cosmetics industry.

in-cosmetics Global will be held in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022.


Skinobs in a few words

Skinobs' platforms help cosmeticians, R&D managers, formulators, marketers or regulatory affairs managers to find, worldwide, recognized testing providers and relevant methods to support the claims of active ingredients or finished products.

Prad accelerates its development and recruits Arnaud Jammes, as development manager

Arnaud Jammes, a chemical and materials science engineer, joins Prad as Development Manager. He previously spent 12 years with Jet Metal as Technical and Process Manager.

PRAD Arnaud Jammes Development Manager 1- Packaging - Market info

Arnaud Jammes: " I'm delighted to be joining Prad, a company I know well from helping to deploy metallization. Bruno Pierrain, the company's CEO, has made this a major area of development. The company's many recent industrial investments and the quality of its staff are assets that will enable us to pursue our drive for innovation and industrial excellence. What's more, I like the idea of finishing materials that can be recycled ad infinitum. "

Bruno Pierrain: " Prad's development cannot be achieved without expertise in the chemistry of decorative products. Arnaud Jammes' experience complements our knowledge and reinforces our drive for innovation. Our current metallization technique offers infinite possibilities of appearance through its levels of opacity, gradations and the brilliance of its shades. With our customers' expectations in mind, I have entrusted Arnaud with the mission of completing our range of effects, on as many container formats as possible, and in strict compliance with our environmental commitments. "

13th edition of the U'Cosmetics contest: the 10 finalist teams are known!

On March 17, 2022, the UCO Bretagne Nord in Guingamp is organizing the 13th edition of U'Cosmetics, a student competition and professional symposium, on the theme of "professional cosmetics: innovation at the service of practice."

The aim is for participants to come up with an innovative product or concept that meets an expectation or need of beauty and well-being professionals: institutes, hairdressing salons, barbershops, spas, thalassotherapy centers, nail salons and so on. To achieve this, they will be able to reflect on finished products, textures, application rituals and protocols, not forgetting marketing and communication aspects.

This theme was chosen to highlight professionals who have been particularly affected by the health crisis, by inviting players in the cosmetics sector (brands, manufacturers, ingredient suppliers) to discuss their needs and issues.

On February 8, 2022, the U'Cosmetics competition pre-jury took place in Rennes. The jury, made up of professionals and players from the cosmetics industry, met to select the 10 shortlisted projects from among the 17 products in competition (10 participating schools), which will go forward to the competition on March 17.

Teams were judged on criteria such as creativity, sensoriality, functionality, subject knowledge and execution. Jury members were able to test samples from teams competing in the "Formulation Innovation" category.

Among the 10 finalist teams, the most innovative projects will be rewarded with four prizes: "innovation formulation", "innovative concept", "coup de cœur du jury", "prix spécial Philippe Collas : coup de cœur des internautes".

The pre-selected projects in the innovative concept category are :

Calameïa: University of Rennes 1
"The Calameïa pen, aimed at professional make-up artists, is a nod to the evolution of writing from a writing function to that of 3D make-up. The aim of Calameïa is to solidify gel for 3D make-up. Calameïa enables us to gain the precision and originality that can revolutionize professional make-up."

Eco Solid'Hair: École supérieure de chimie organique et minérale (Escom)
"The Eco Solid'Hair brand aims to find an alternative to the plastic shampoo bottles used in hair salons. Eco Solid'Hair is developing a natural solid shampoo in the shape of a chocolate bar: "Ortie'Pik". The solid shampoo bar format is ideal for single or multiple use, depending on hair length.

Elix'Hydre: School of Industrial Biology (EBI)
"Our company Yanapay offers a post-tattoo care kit with a "second skin" effect, called Elix'Hydre, which meets ecological, practical, technical and microbiological stability criteria. The kit consists of two products: a moisturizing gel and a gel-fixing spray." 

My Custom Coal Care: University of Rennes 1
"My Custom Coal Care is a concept that aims to be clean, eco-designed and, above all, customizable. My CCC offers three face masks in a single package. The aim is to personalize the treatment and provide customers with a unique, natural treatment that respects their skin and the environment."

Sensory Cloud : Itech Lyon
"The Sensory Cloud body sculpting treatment offers a new sensory experience. This treatment is composed of an aqueous gel, for a cold-effect application, and emulsion beads, producing a warm effect during massage."

Sõn Sweet: University of Rennes 1
"In these times of health crisis, socio-aestheticians are faced with a lack of sensitivity due to the need to wear gloves during treatments. Sõn Sweet offers new hand protectors that give the illusion of 'skin-to-skin' touch and can provide added sensory value."

So'Shampoo : Itech Lyon
"So'Shampoo is a solid shampoo in the form of a divisible tablet. This concept is part of an eco-design approach. So'Shampoo aims to limit pollution of aquatic environments by using biodegradable raw materials."

UniC: Montpellier National Chemistry School (ENSCM) 
"Every year, a large quantity of cosmetics, hygiene and care products are consumed in hotels. UniC wants to offer an innovative and eco-responsible sensory experience by developing single-dose capsules containing five essential everyday products, including shower gel, shampoo, toothpaste and moisturizer."

The pre-selected projects in the formulation innovation category are :

Algimer - Marine cosmetics : University of Montpellier
"Algimer - Cosmétique Marine is a brand of natural cosmetics for institutes, SPA & Thalasso. The Iroise range comprises three products, including a clay mask, a serum-gel with cultured pearl extract and a cream with Criste Marine water and seaweed cell active ingredients." 

Powdhair. Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord 
"Powdhair aims to create a range of five natural hair care products in powder form for professional hairdressers. The range includes three shampoos tailored to the customer's specific needs, a scalp scrub and a powder mask."

The U'Cosmetics event is organized by students in the Master 1 "Ingénierie des Produits et Process - Métiers de la cosmétique" (Product and Process Engineering - Cosmetics Professions) program, and run by teachers from the Université Catholique de l'Ouest in Guingamp. 

The winners will be announced at the end of the day on March 17, after the round-table discussion at the professional symposium.

GPA Global presents "Eco-Logic": secondary packaging made of biodegradable pulp

The Eco-Logic collection illustrates GPA Global's expertise in the manufacture of high-end secondary packaging in compostable and biodegradable pulp. The recyclability of its components, the optimization of cut-outs, the use of water-based glue and soy-based inks, and the equally biodegradable decorations, make Eco-Logic a collection designed to meet the sustainable development objectives of brands.

Pulp is a material made from recycled paper or natural fibers mixed with water and pressed: bagasse, bamboo, wheat straw, newsprint, corrugated cardboard (OCC), paper. It comes from renewable materials and is compostable and biodegradable. GPA Global's technology offers a variety of high-quality, customizable finishes, in line with brand image, such as: soft-touch matte coating; semi-gloss powder coating; water-resistant lamination; textured lamination; woodgrain lamination; velvety flocking; plastic-effect oil-based coating; embossing/debossing; screen printing; hot stamping.

The Butterfly box illustrates the precision and thermoformed plastic-look finish achievable with GPA Global's technology. The outside of the pack is clad in FSC-certified black paper, adorned with a pink and gold floral motif, with gold piping and a UV-printed butterfly motif. Inside, a wedge accommodates a selection of products, protected by a gold cover. The inside of the lid is decorated with a 100 % biodegradable filmless aluminum transfer paper with a butterfly motif. This eco-responsible packaging is designed for gift boxes, influencer kits and limited-edition product launches.

The Leaf box is covered in FSC-certified paper printed with a botanical design, enhanced with gold leaf motifs. The base of the box is gray with a UV-printed leaf motif. Inside, a shaped pulp wedge holds a selection of products, protected by a matte gray cover. The inside of the lid is decorated with biodegradable aluminum transfer paper.

The Peacock cabinet has a different look, although it too is made from pressed pulp, white water-based glue and recyclable components. This vertical cabinet opens with a hinged door to reveal three products.

The distinctive feature of this pack is the dark blue material* of its suede-look, embossed trim. This material also covers the wedge inside the pack, bordering the spaces intended to hold the products.

*Winter & Company's Suedel Luxe Recycled is entirely biodegradable, and also offers an alternative to the material waste associated with cotton production. In a circular economy approach, Winter & Company collects, cleans and processes cotton waste before applying it to a recycled paper base for a velvety effect.

Find out more about pulp : read the guide.

Dermalogica chooses Future by Aptar for its facial cleanser line

Future, the innovative, fully recyclable single-material dispensing solution, was chosen for Dermalogica's line of cleansing products, Special Cleansing Gel, Ultra Calming Cleanser and Clearing Skin Wash.

 "We are very proud that our partner Dermalogica has chosen Future, our single-material, all-in-one solution. recyclable, compatible with online sales, for its launch of cleansing care products". says Beth Holland, Vice-President Global Sustainability, Aptar.

In developing Future, Aptar's experts drew on recognized eco-design principles to help reduce the product's environmental footprint. The best example of recyclability is the choice of mono-material. Conventional pumps can contain a variety of materials, including metal components which can, in some cases, have an impact on the recycling process. Future is made exclusively from PE, the material most commonly used to manufacture bottles. The complete packaging, including pump and bottle (in PE or PET), is thus recycled more efficiently.

In line with Dermalogica, Aptar believes that the packaging industry must think and act in a circular economy mode. This Aptar innovation is in line with our 2025 objectives to reduce environmental impact and our commitment to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's New Plastics Economy.

 "The stakes have never been higher for the health of our planet",says Aurelian Lis, Managing Director of Dermalogica. "As an industry leader, we have both the opportunity and the responsibility to have a positive impact, not only in the institute, on our customers' skin, but also on the environment. Being the first prestige skincare brand to integrate these mono-material pumps is an important Momentum that commits us to passing on a better environment to future generations."

BEA receives the EcoVadis Gold Medal

Laboratoires BEA, a French contract manufacturer of cosmetics and soaps, has been awarded Gold status by the EcoVadis rating platform, which specializes in assessing corporate social responsibility (CSR).

This result places BEA among the top 5 % companies worldwide rated by EcoVadis.

Laboratoires BEA's CSR performance is assessed each year by this independent body, according to 21 criteria divided into four themes: environment, HR and human rights, business ethics and responsible purchasing. These CSR assessments are based on tangible evidence and are recognized internationally.

A committed company

Driven by its commitment to a more sustainable beauty industry, and involved in an eco-responsible approach for several years, Laboratoires BEA is constantly optimizing the environmental impact of its processes.

Laboratoires BEA has recently acquired state-of-the-art equipment for manufacturing waterless products. The company has invested in a new production unit dedicated to solid soaps and cosmetics, based on solid industrial expertise combined with advanced eco-production criteria, enabling it to offer naturally effective products, free from controversial products.

In 2021, Laboratoires BEA is taking its commitment to the environment a step further with the creation of the Natscore. This rating system will enable us to give preference to formulas with a lower environmental impact, for an eco-responsible way of consuming.

This is a self-assessment method that assigns a score to each of the catalog formulas, according to specific criteria:

  • Percentage of naturalness: 95% of ingredients of natural origin according to ISO 16128.
  • Minimum number of raw materials used.
  • Absence of certain controversial ingredients: PEG-free, phthalate-free, BHT/BHA-free, EDTA-free, silicone-free and free from synthetic dyes.
  • Production: cold or low-energy process.
  • Specific formulation: Vegan, water-free.

Opposite air jet micronization of powders

Opposed-jet micronization is the combination of two operations: grinding proper, which consists in reducing the size of particles by collision between them, and classification, which selects only those particles that have reached the target particle size.

Such a process enables ultra-fine powders to be obtained from products of all hardnesses, sensitive to temperature and with virtually no contamination.

This is why it is used in a wide range of industries: food, cosmetics, minerals, chemicals, aeronautics and pharmaceuticals.

For over 20 years, SDTech has devoted its efforts to shaping fine powders. The company uses state-of-the-art technologies to meet the most stringent requirements in terms of grinding fineness and precision, particularly on a large scale.

It is equipped with an industrial-scale opposed-air micronizer: the Hosokawa Alpine 630 AFG mill (with a capacity of several tons/day).

Such equipment offers many advantages:

  • a response to the strict requirements of raw products (hardness, abrasiveness, heat sensitivity, etc.)
  • maximized fineness of micronized powder (down to less than 5µm)
  • autogenous micronization (operating without the use of grinding media)
  • durability against wear and tear
  • automated operation
  • a multi-sector application
  • optimized energy consumption.

SDtech's expertise

Piloting and operating a micronizer with opposed air jets is complex and requires a great deal of expertise. Numerous control parameters will influence the particle size of the finished product, production throughput and energy consumption.

SDTech masters the whole of this triptych, offering highly technical services that the company can validate on laboratory and pilot scale before launching on industrial scale.

Our engineers combine their knowledge of materials with their expertise in micronization processes, to support SDtech customers in the shaping and production of the finest powders.

Nuxe chooses Oil'Mist by Aptar for its Huile Prodigieuse Néroli

Aptar Beauty + Home, a global leader in packaging distribution solutions for the beauty industry, has announced that its Oil'Mist spray has been chosen for the launch of Huile Prodigieuse Néroli, as for its entire Huile Prodigieuse range.

Aptar Beauty + Home: proud to support the success story of Huile Prodigieuse 

The choice of Oil'Mist for Huile Prodigieuse Néroli follows several years of close collaboration with Nuxe. The story began when the Aptar pump was chosen by Nuxe as the delivery system for Huile Prodigieuse Gold, the dry oil infused with flakes. Huile Prodigieuse Nuxe, available in 65 countries worldwide, is the first dry oil reference in pharmacies and parapharmacies in France. 
Launching in June 2021, Huile Prodigieuse Néroli is the latest launch of the renowned Huile Prodigieuse franchise. 

This new certified organic dry oil, whose formula is 100% of natural origin, meets the needs of modern beauty consumers, looking for products that are as good for them as they are environmentally friendly. 
"Nuxe has been working with Aptar for many years, and we are delighted that this collaboration continues with this new partnership on our bestsellers." Silvia De La Flor, Purchasing Director, Nuxe Group. 

Oil'Mist : a high quality diffusion of dry oils 

Specially designed for the diffusion of dry oils, Oil'Mist offers a sensory and optimal spray experience. 
Reliable and robust, Oil'Mist incorporates an exclusive technology that delivers the dry oil in a light, generous and uniform cloud. 
Ideal for dry oils, Oil'Mist is available in screw-on or crimp-on versions, in plastic or metal finish. 
In its crimped version, Oil'Mist is used on the two 50ml and 100ml sizes of the Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse range, and is associated with an anodized casing in high-end gold and rose gold finishes, in harmony with the shades of the precious elixirs. 

 * Nuxe, N°1 of oils in the pharmacy channel in France - IQVIA - PharmaOne Pharmatrend - Women's oil body care market (82F1E ET 82K6) - in pharmacy - France - 2020 - value and volume

Frank Clyburn appointed CEO and member of the Board of Directors of IFF

IFF announces the appointment of Frank Clyburn to succeed Andreas Fibig as CEO and member of the Board of Directors, effective February 14, 2022.

Frank Clyburn joins IFF from Merck, where he served as executive vice president and president of the Human Health Division. 

During his time at Merck, he was also responsible for building one of the world's largest oncology businesses, which is now transforming cancer care and is Merck's largest business. He was an integral part of Merck's $41 billion acquisition of Schering-Plough.

Prior to this role, Frank Clyburn served as Merck's chief commercial officer, responsible for commercial operations and P&L for the Human Health division. From 2013 to 2018, he served as the inaugural president of the company's global Oncology business. He led the creation of this fully integrated global business unit, the global launch of Merck's immuno-oncology drug, and oversaw the arrival and sustainability of Merck as a leader in oncology.

Frank Clyburn has a deep understanding of R&D, extensive experience in integration and mergers and acquisitions, and a unique ability to connect with customers and all stakeholders. He was responsible for the largest business creation at Merck and for what is now one of the world's leading oncology companies.

"Frank is the best leader to take IFF to a new level. His strong operational experience and hands-on, customer-centric approach will be key assets in accelerating the execution of IFF's strategic and operational priorities."said Dale Morrison, director of IFF. 

Ed Breen, director of IFF, adds: "Frank joins IFF at a time of significant value creation opportunities. We are confident in his ability to deliver profitable growth, create synergies, optimize merger integration to deliver strong shareholder value."

"It is an honor to join IFF as CEO, said Frank Clyburn. It is a highly iconic company in its industry as well as an industry leader, delivering an exceptional customer experience and long-term sustainable growth. IFF's mission and vision are closely aligned with global trends that have accelerated recently, such as nutrition, wellness and sustainability. I look forward to working with IFF's talent, unparalleled product offerings, and particularly impressive innovation platforms, and am excited to bring my expertise in operational excellence to continue building IFF's future."

"I am pleased to welcome Frank to the role of CEO, said Andreas Fibig. He joins IFF at a time when we are meeting our financial targets for the full year 2021, with strong demand continuing into the first quarter. I am confident that Frank will motivate and engage our teams around the world, and I wish him every success in this next chapter of IFF under his leadership."

IFF also announces its decision to separate the roles of Chairman and CEO. Dale Morrison, a long-time IFF director, will assume the role of non-executive chairman of the board, effective February 14, 2022. Ed Breen will remain on the board as an independent director; therefore, there will no longer be a lead independent director in the company. 

IES Ingredients, Platinum EcoVadis medal

Distribution company IES Ingredients has been awarded the Platinum Medal for 2022 by EcoVadis, the global CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) assessment platform. This medal distinguishes the top % companies rated best for their ethical practices and social and environmental performance. 

With a score of 85/100, IES Ingredients meets the requirements for continuous improvement in CSR. At IES Ingredients, the approach is guided by employees committed to issues such as the protection of biodiversity, the fight against global warming, action for the region, well-being at work, ethics and internal communication. 

"All our employees are aware of our CSR challenges and are motivated to take part in working groups. I would like to thank everyone for their commitment to improving our approach on a daily basis. This rating is a way of highlighting our commitments to our employees, our customers and our suppliers.emphasizes Noël Poinsignon, Executive Vice President.

IES Ingredients has been an expert in the distribution of raw materials to professionals in the cosmetics, perfumery and food flavorings industries since 1993. The EcoVadis rating has become increasingly important in these sectors, particularly in terms of responsible purchasing. IES Ingredients benefits from the support of partners who are also committed to continuous improvement.

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