- advertising -
Home Blog Page 158

[podcast] Paris Packaging Week > interview with Josh Brooks and Christelle Anya

At the heart of packaging innovation for beauty, beverages, luxury and FMCG, this is the promise of Paris Packaging Week 2022.


This event, which will take place on June 29 and 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, will take over the ADF, PCD and PLD trade shows and incorporate them into a whole that is just waiting to grow.


Interview with Josh Brooks who is in charge of the show and Christelle Anya without whom attendees would not be able to enjoy their visit to learn and listen to experts in the field...

Josh 500x500 1- Packaging - Market info
Josh Brooks
Christelle 500x500 1- Packaging - Market info
Christelle Anya

For L'Oréal, the Texen teams are pooling their expertise around a dual international launch

The star of the year, Maybelline's Curl Bounce mascara features a vitamin-rich design and a textured finish reminiscent of a Bluetooth speaker. L'Oréal has entrusted Texen with the dual launch of the product in two references in Europe and the United States.

The technical nature of the product and an incompressible schedule required close collaboration between the brand's teams and those of Texen in the United States and France.

An exemplary collaboration

Validation of key phases, harmonization of decorating processes, multiple tests, mold manufacturing, automation of industrial operations, etc.: according to Texen, this project owes its success to a winning human and industrial synergy. According to Texen, this project owes its success to a winning human and industrial synergy. Added to this is the multicultural communication and complementary nature of our businesses, honed by regular exchanges within the group. This strength is a major component of the "One Texen" culture.

The product development process was managed locally, then duplicated internationally under the control of a dedicated team.

This organization made it possible to maintain a schedule comparable to that of a local project, and even to absorb its contingencies. In a context of remote exchanges, risk management and validation methods have proved their worth.

Objectives worldwide

Texen managed this "transatlantic" project from France (development of molds, implementation of decorating processes, industrial automation, centralization of validations...). Production was then carried out in parallel in France and the USA, under the supervision of the brand's local teams.

The major challenge was to obtain identical 100 % rendering between the two parts of the product (bottle and cap) transformed using two different processes. Numerous tests and adjustments were carried out on the textured effect on the one hand, and on the decorations on the other.

Finally, Texen produced the wringer and supplied a brush sourced from its long-standing partners in the United States and Europe.

Maybelline's Curl Bounce is available in two formulas and two finishes: cream and waterproof in the United States and throughout Europe.

Faber-Castell Cosmetics presents its new product range: back to the roots!

Faber-Castell Cosmetics presented its brand new product range at the Cosmopack trade show in Bologna: bold colors and traditional patterns combined with clean, vegan textures.

Gather is for people who want to revive traditions and honor human diversity. Revealing a variety of traditional roots and visual characteristics to a wider audience, Gather celebrates the cultural craftsmanship and heritage of local and lesser-known cultures around the world. Indigenous patterns and shapes are reinterpreted in a geometric and modern way, while colors are mixed in an experimental and artistic approach. 

An illuminator and stick blush, several eyeliners, stick eyeshadows, a kajal, as well as various lipsticks are offered in bright, pastel and neutral colors for contrasting application. Intense, highly pigmented textures are vegan and clean, with finishes ranging from matte to pearlescent to glossy. 

The company offers a new long-lasting, lightweight texture for lipsticks that leaves a powdery feel on the lips, available with a slanted tip and a bullet tip for precise application. Another highlight is the multichromatic effect of the new eyeshadow texture, thanks to the use of chameleon pigments. 

In addition to the vegan texture, the packaging also stands out. One of Faber-Castell Cosmetics' latest innovations is the most sustainable cosmetic pencil ever: an airtight pencil in wooden packaging combined with highly natural textures. The eyeliner and kajal are now also available with colored caps and a ferrule for different applicators.

The Phytema laboratory launches Jour 1, a new range of natural and organic hair care products in eco-designed bottles without labels

Building on its know-how and expertise in hair care, the Phytema laboratory announces the launch of Jour 1, its new range of natural and organic hair care products, developed and manufactured in Savoie with a label-free, eco-designed bottle. 

" We are delighted to launch our Jour 1 range today, which is the fruit of our 20 years' expertise in hair care. For us, Jour 1 is an invitation to care for our hair in a different way, with innovative ingredients and eco-designed packaging. We have designed an authentic range in line with the expectations of consumers concerned with reducing their carbon footprint. "explains François Ardouin, President of the Phytema laboratory.

The fruit of two years of laboratory research and development, Jour 1 responds to consumer demand to reconcile the pleasure of hair with ethics. The products contain a minimum of 97% of natural ingredients from French organic farming (organic cucumber, organic lemon, organic thyme from Provence, organic clementine from Corsica, organic cedar from Auvergne, organic apricot from Roussillon, organic cherry blossom and organic redcurrants from Ardèche).

Day 1 a complete range of hair care products

The range was designed and formulated by Phytema in its laboratory in the heart of the Alps. It offers a genuine hair ritual and is composed of 10 products: 
5 shampoos (fortifying, volumizing, purifying, anti-dandruff, color protect), 
2 care oils, 
1 conditioner,
1 hair scrub,
1 moisturizing mask.

Phytema has chosen minimalist formulas, selecting effective active ingredients exclusively from France.

Packaging hybrid eco-designed that shakes up the codes by taking a cardboard box into the shower water-resistant !

Phytema is committed to improving the environmental footprint of its packaging by replacing certain materials with others from the circular economy. All containers have been selected to minimize their ecological impact, while preserving the notion of pleasure.

The molded fiber shells containing the shampoo are made from recycled cardboard and newspaper. Inside the shell is a soft plastic liner that uses 70% less plastic than a traditional bottle. Together, they form a functional, sturdy container.

The bottles are laser-engraved on unlabeled cardboard. A recycled cardboard collar is printed with biodegradable ink.

Launch of Rootness Awake asset co-developed with Clariant

Plant Advanced Technologies (PAT) announces the launch by Clariant of Rootness Awake, the latest active co-developed under the partnership between the two companies. The new active ingredient joins Prenylium and Rootness Energize, launched in 2020, in Clariant's Premium range.

Rootness Awake is extracted from the roots ofIpomoea batatas more commonly known as sweet potato. The tubers of this South American perennial of the Convolvulaceae family are well known in the food world.

PAT Plantes à milire, a patented, eco-responsible technology, offers unique access to the root compartment. It makes it possible to produce normally inaccessible molecules of interest from the fine roots of plants grown aeroponically in greenhouses, without destroying them. The increase in yield is considerable compared with traditional open-ground production, thanks to ..:

  • stimulating plants to produce these defense molecules (between 50 and 1,000 times more)
  • several harvests during the season (between 3 and 6 times more)
  • access to all the most active fine roots, which are impossible to harvest in a traditional environment (around 10 to 20 times more).

The key compound in Rootness Awake is a molecule called DCQ*.

This very difficult-to-source active ingredient is already known for its remarkable antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Clariant reveals it for new anti-aging eye contour cosmetic applications:

  • Reduces inflammation, puffiness and dark circles
  • Reinforces skin firmness, integrity and thickness
  • Lightening of skin pigmentation.

As announced by Clariant, the extract's activity has been demonstrated in vitro, ex vivo and clinical trials. In tests lasting more than 28 days on women aged 18 to 35 with accentuated signs of fatigue, Rootness Awake showed a strong attenuation and smoothing of dark circles, a reduction in puffiness and a strengthening of the precision of the eye contour as early as day 7.

The result is clearer, more alert eyes.

Rootness Awake received a particularly warm welcome when it was launched by Clariant at the Supplier's Day cosmetics trade show in New York, USA, on May 3-4.

The product has been marketed through Clariant's international network since May 2022.

Webinar: Skin Moisture Assessment

On Thursday, May 12, 2022, at 3 p.m. PT, Skinobs invites cosmeticians to attend the free Focus-Live webinar dedicated to skin hydration assessment.

Two testing laboratories and two instrumentation manufacturers will present their latest news on the best ways to quantify and visualize the moisturizing effect of actives and personal care products.

  • PRI
  • proderm
  • Biox Systems
  • Newtone Technologies

To receive the webinar link, send a message to Oriana: [email protected].

The entire Focus#5 dedicated to hydrating objectification, which gathers the point of view of 13 experts in this field, is accessible by clicking here.

New brand identity: L'Occitane en Provence opens a pop-up at BHV Marais 

 Since April 29, customers at the BHV Marais can discover a new corner of L'Occitane en Provence, which immerses them in the new universe of the brand: "Cultivators of Change". 
This new identity, revealed at the beginning of 2022, reflects the vision of the brand and concretizes the dream it has been pursuing since its creation in 1976: to work towards the reconciliation of man with himself and with nature and to affirm that this is possible. This philosophy is visually expressed in four "chapters" (Cultivating Nature, Revealing its Wonders, Awakening the Senses, Acting Locally) that tell the story of a year of L'Occitane, through visuals designed and produced by its own creative teams. 

The pop-up at BHV Marais features the first chapter: Cultivating Nature. This chapter highlights L'Occitane en Provence's key partners, the producers, the men and women who grow the brand's flagship ingredients (lavender, verbena, immortelle, almonds...) in perfect symbiosis with their ecosystem. This chapter highlights the incredible strength of living soil and the beauty of biodiversity. It also tells about agroecology and the techniques put in place by L'Occitane to accompany producers in their ecological transition. 

The corner at BHV Marais, which will evolve and include the four chapters, is part of the deployment of the "Cultivators of Change" universe in France and internationally in L'Occitane stores and outlets. 

Upcycling in perfumery, or how to transform "waste" into olfactory treasures!

TechnicoFlor explores new olfactory playgrounds with upcycled raw materials!

TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house, has just launched a collection of perfumes developed from upcycled raw materials that illustrates its vision of tomorrow's perfumery: responsible perfumery!

Intended for perfume and cosmetics brands concerned about protecting the planet and presented as a preview at the In-Cosmetics Global trade show in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022, this collection includes eight responsible fragrances created by TechnicoFlor's perfumers.

A collection of responsible perfumes

TechnicoFlor's perfumers have developed these fragrances in compliance with very strict specifications in terms of responsibility for men, women and the planet. The challenge was to put forward an upcycled raw material: formulas with a high percentage of biodegradability, BetterTomorrow formulas, FairTrade materials, 100 % vegan, with a controlled environmental impact, and without any danger of skin sensitization.

From their palette of upcycled raw materials, they have selected white wine lees (from the deposit generated during the ageing period in wine and champagne barrels), oak wood (from wine barrel chips revalorized by CO2 extraction), carrot seeds (from seeds with low germination potential), cocoa absolute (from cocoa pods), clementine (from peels), cypress absolute (from waste from the cabinetmaking industry), and rose essential (from the distillation of petals that have already been used to create absolute). The result is eight new, surprisingly responsible fragrances: Raisin Divin, Up To Wood, Bois Tonic, Purple Fiction, Cacao Rosso, Sorbet Corse, Cypress'tige, Rosylicious.

Upcycling in perfumery

Upcycling is a process that consists in revaluing objects or materials destined to be thrown away to give them a new use and thus a second life. Unlike recycling, upcycling does not require any mechanical or chemical transformation of the material. The object is recovered as is, then improved to bring value and a new use. In perfumery, an ingredient can be considered upcycled when it is obtained by recovering unused by-products or waste from the perfume and flavor industry, the food industry or other industries. Upcycled ingredients can be of natural or synthetic origin. It is a new playground for perfumers who see their palette expanded with unexpected scents!

Committed perfumers 

Beyond its know-how in conventional perfumery, TechnicoFlor has been recognized worldwide for its expertise in natural and responsible formulation for over 15 years.

The company undertakes many actions to move towards a more responsible perfumery and preserve biodiversity:

  • Committed purchasing policy, favoring the sourcing of environmentally responsible raw materials (BetterTomorrow),
  • Creation of 100 % natural ranges in accordance with cosmos organic requirements (NatFlor perfumes),
  • Compositions with low environmental impact,
  • Tool for measuring the biodegradability of fragrances (BioD-Scent)
  • Support for environmental projects, etc...

According to TechnicoFlor, with this new collection, the company demonstrates once again its commitment to go further for the respect of people and the planet: "Let's continue together to make tomorrow a little better than today." 

Science and Ayurveda combined for a return to natural balance 

Adaptonyl is a natural anti-stress active ingredient proposed by Silab, derived from the ayurvedic plant ashwagandha, capable of acting on all factors of the skin exposome. In 2022, Silab proposes a more transversal approach to its protective active launched in 2006, with new efficacy data in vitro and in vivo.

The skin is particularly exposed to environmental stress (temperature changes, solar aggression, air pollution) and lifestyle stress (poor diet, smoking, psychological stress, lack of sleep). Grouped together under the term cutaneous exposome, all these factors profoundly disrupt the skin's homeostasis, thus contributing to its aging, as demonstrated by a groundbreaking modeling study by Silab.

Adaptonyl acts on all skin exposure factors, whether environmental or lifestyle-related. In the face of damage to the epidermis and dermis, it reduces markers of oxidative and inflammatory stress, and boosts cellular metabolism.

Anti-stress effect

According to Silab, Adaptonyl's cosmetic efficacy is rapid, from 14 days of application, and is demonstrated on a panel of volunteers selected for their particular exposure to the exposome, and their dull complexion.

Adaptonyl formulated with 2 % reinforces the barrier function and improves skin microrelief. The active ingredient also refines skin texture and revives the complexion's radiance. These effects have been confirmed by volunteers, more than 85% of whom found their skin smoother, more resistant and more radiant.

An ayurvedic plant with adaptogenic properties

Adaptonyl is composed of oligosaccharides derived from the roots of ashwagandha (Withania somnifera). This small shrub is used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine, notably for its adaptogenic stress-resistance properties (plant rasayana).

Silab has chosen secure sourcing from India, the cradle of Ayurveda. This supply chain is traced right down to the plot, and complies with ABS (Access and Benefit Sharing) regulations under the Nagoya Protocol.

For its transversal action against the skin exposome, Adaptonyl is recommended in all protective skin care products at a dose of 1 to 4 %. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 99% (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Cosmed partner of the cosmetic business meetings in Morocco

In a period where tensions on the raw materials market are at their peak, following the crisis of major forces resulting from Covid and shortages of certain oils and plants resulting from the Ukrainian conflict, the search for new sources of supply is one of the solutions implemented by cosmetics manufacturers.

Morocco, with the strong potential of its aromatic and medicinal plants (MAP) sector, offers sourcing opportunities that should not be overlooked. Morocco is the world's 7th largest exporter of MAP with 141,000 tons produced, and also has a strategic geographical location due to its proximity to France. The cosmetics market of 800 million € in 2021 is very dynamic and constantly changing. The French offer, holding 65 % of the market share, benefits from a great notoriety.

In this context, Cosmed is the partner of the business meetings of the cosmetics sector in Morocco, organized from June 15 to 17, 2022, on the sidelines of the Cosmetista trade show in Casablanca, by the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Morocco and the Team France Export.

These meetings will allow manufacturers of the French cosmetics industry to better target the Moroccan market and benefit from personalized and targeted meetings with buyers and importers & distributors.

Contact Cosmed: Stéphanie Miraton, events manager, [email protected]

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Newsletter

en_USEnglish