In a period where tensions on the raw materials market are at their peak, following the crisis of major forces resulting from Covid and shortages of certain oils and plants resulting from the Ukrainian conflict, the search for new sources of supply is one of the solutions implemented by cosmetics manufacturers.
Morocco, with the strong potential of its aromatic and medicinal plants (MAP) sector, offers sourcing opportunities that should not be overlooked. Morocco is the world's 7th largest exporter of MAP with 141,000 tons produced, and also has a strategic geographical location due to its proximity to France. The cosmetics market of 800 million € in 2021 is very dynamic and constantly changing. The French offer, holding 65 % of the market share, benefits from a great notoriety.
In this context, Cosmed is the partner of the business meetings of the cosmetics sector in Morocco, organized from June 15 to 17, 2022, on the sidelines of the Cosmetista trade show in Casablanca, by the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Morocco and the Team France Export.
These meetings will allow manufacturers of the French cosmetics industry to better target the Moroccan market and benefit from personalized and targeted meetings with buyers and importers & distributors.
The bottle of Rose Goldea Blossom Delight, by Bvlgari is dressed in a recycled zamak fret, with aluminum chimney.
The white epoxy decoration obtained by crimping personalizes the ring of this bright perfume that celebrates audacity and passion.
TNT Global Manufacturing once again rose to the challenge of the complexity of matching the gold colors between the anodized aluminum and the galvanized recycled zamak, the meticulous work of filling the epoxy cavities, and the precise polishing to homogenize the whole and to take care of the recessed logo on the "top" of the collar.
Firmenich, a privately held fragrance and flavor company, announces its new Scientific Advisory Board (SAB). Independent, international scientists will help the group identify future opportunities in the development of scientific fields, including biotechnology, neuroscience, materials science, artificial intelligence and health. The SAB also reviews the research portfolio to provide strategic input in differentiated focus areas for Firmenich. The seven SAB members are: - Patrick Aebischer (chairman), former president EPFL, Ecole polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne - Markus Antonietti, Professor; Director of the Max Planck Institute for Colloids and Interfaces (GER) - Regina Barzilay, Distinguished Professor for AI and Health, Electrical Engineering and Computer Science Dept, MIT (USA) - Antoine Firmenich, Member of the Board of Directors of Firmenich; CEO and Managing Director of Aquilus Pte Ltd - Chaitan Khosla, Professor of Chemical Engineering and Chemistry, Stanford University, USA - Sarah Reisinger, Director of Research, Firmenich - Richard Ridinger, Member of the Board of Directors of Firmenich; former CEO of Lonza
"The new SAB reinforces Firmenich's legacy of high-level scientific collaboration that extends from 1939 Nobel Prize winner in chemistry Leopold Ruzicka to multiple research partnerships with prestigious institutions today."said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. "SAB provides additional information at the forefront of science that can help us identify future opportunities and open the next chapters of fragrance and taste innovation for the benefit of our customers." "I am delighted that such eminent scientists with a track record of groundbreaking discoveries are enthusiastically sharing their insights into scientific and technological trends with us."said Sarah Reisinger, director of research. "They provide tremendous inspiration and guidance to our R&D team and we all look forward to the impact SAB will have on the future direction of our research."
Firmenich's R&D division, which includes six global research centers, also works closely with a network of innovation partners around the world to develop distinctive ingredients and technologies. The network includes dynamic start-ups and companies, university research institutes and renowned consultants.
Launched just one year ago by Guillaume Dufay, La Petite Madeleine is a start-up incubated at the Technopole de l'Aube en Champagne, whose mission is to combine traditional know-how with the expertise of exceptional perfumers. Initially consisting of a range of scented natural soaps, it now offers five fragrances that echo the scents of the soaps. Available online and gradually in niche perfumeries (Troyes, Reims, Lille, Dijon...), la petite Madeleine is rooted in the Champagne region.
Five new scents
Having worked for several years in the world of cosmetics, and more particularly in the world of exceptional fragrances, Guillaume Dufay wanted to create high-end products that would release memories through scents, while highlighting the richness of the French heritage. From this project were born the scented soaps of the little Madeleine. To do so, Guillaume Dufay trained as a soap maker in order to master the techniques of cold saponification. He started in his grandmother's artist workshop before moving to Troyes and developing his project in the Technopole de l'Aube en Champagne.
A year later, he announced the launch of five eaux de parfum with renowned perfumers to complement the five existing cold process soaps. Always with this will to produce in France and to keep the circuits very short, all the suppliers and partners are located at a few kilometers of the workshop of production of the small Madeleine.
Clean fragrance concentrated to 18 % based on organic beet alcohol used near their production facility, these fragrances are meant to be connected to nature and design in an industry that largely uses heavy, metalized plastic caps.
The scents available and the "noses" are the same as for the five scented soaps: - Neroli des lunes" by Fabrice Pellegrin - Nue d'iris" by Marie Salamagne - Vetiver thrill" by Nicolas Bonneville - Under the silence of the rose" by Philippine Courtières - Rain of bergamots" by Julien Plos
These five "noses" work for Firmenich, one of the world's leading perfume houses. Each soap has its own olfactory story told by the perfumer himself.
"Humbly, my desire was to promote the various trades and know-how of our territory. Each one brings its expertise and a stone to the building of our olfactory stories."says Guillaume Dufay, founder of La Petite Madeleine.
A quality and eco-responsible assembly that promotes short circuits
In the same eco-responsible line of soaps - which are all handmade by Guillaume Dufay in his workshop in Troyes, the eaux de parfum are composed of virtuous materials.
Concerning the conception of the corks, the cork is produced in France and comes from the recasting of wine bottle corks, male and female cork bark. La petite Madeleine has called upon two talented designers who have handcrafted pebbles from shells and cork, symbolizing travel, freedom and marine movement.
The bottle is reminiscent of the rounded shapes of scented soaps, with a reduced environmental impact: the bottle was chosen to be light, with a glass requirement divided by two compared to a conventional bottle of the same capacity. Moreover, it is 100 % recyclable.
The boxes and decorations (patterns on the bottles) were made in family businesses less than 50 km from Guillaume Dufay's workshop. Similarly, vegetable inks are used on paper from sustainable forests and the perfume waters contain neither colorants nor UV filters. The beet alcohol is of vegetable origin, organic and collected nearby.
Afterwards, each bottle is packaged in the workshop, with the boxes assembled by hand. The shipping logistics are done in a company 3 km away, where people in social reintegration work.
Givaudan Active Beauty presents Centella Cast, developed by green fractionation from one of the best-known medicinal plants, Centella Asiatica. Acting on the mechanisms responsible for stretch mark formation, this ingredient works on four levels to restore skin elasticity, density and firmness, reducing the appearance of stretch marks for all consumers.
Often considered an unavoidable side effect of pregnancy, stretch marks or striae can develop on the skin at any age, in both women and men. Up to 86 %1 of Americans experience stretch marks during puberty, and one out of every two women2 during pregnancy. This skin condition, which is neither dangerous nor physically disabling, can lead to self-confidence problems. For example, 71 %3 of women in France say they are concerned about the appearance of stretch marks.
"Skin damage in stretch marks is normally concentrated in the dermis, where disruption of the normal elastic fiber network, alteration of collagen fibers, loss of fiber organization and orientation, and erythema can be observed. As a result, the skin appears less firm and malleable, and stretch marks are visible. Centella Cast effectively counteracts these problems, helping skin to regain its elasticity and firmness. Thanks to these multiple mechanisms, it can also be applied from head to toe, with an overall firming and anti-slackening effect", says Giada Maramaldi, Global Category Manager for Active Beauty.
Centella Cast has been clinically tested on women and shown to significantly improve the epidermis and dermis on four levels:
Epidermal thickness at center of stretch marks (+39 %)
Skin elasticity (+62 %)
Skin microcirculation (+162 %)
Skin appearance (+42 %)
To highlight the benefits of Centella Cast, Active Beauty has formulated an inspiring concept: Body Confidence. This light, delicate emulsion aims to reduce the appearance of stretch marks, improve the skin's overall collagen content and fade the color of stretch marks over time.
1 Oakley A. et al, NCBI Bookshelf, 2022 2 Medical News Today, 2018 3 IFOT, France, 2014
Cosmetic Valley's Board of Directors met on April 1, 2022 and approved the membership of 31 new members: 29 companies, including 14 start-ups from the "Fabrique de la beauté" in Chartres, and two training organizations. As the cluster has a nationwide presence, the new members are based in seven regions: Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Grand Est, Centre-Val de Loire, Île-de-France, Monaco, Normandie, Occitanie.
Launched in March 2021 by Chartres métropole, "La Fabrique de la beauté" promotes the emergence of innovative companies in the beauty and well-being sector. Based at La Cité de l'innovation, at CM101, in Le Coudray near Chartres in the Eure-et-Loir region, this start-up incubator brings together start-up projects, marketing, communications and business development experts for a year... Some 14 start-ups have joined the cluster as part of a partnership signed between Cosmetic Valley's Beauty Hub and "La Fabrique de la beauté".
Cosmogen has developed the HD Skin sponge, co-created by Make Up For Ever with its makeup artists to offer the ultimate second-skin effect, in combination with HD Skin foundation.
This bi-material sponge has been designed for applying liquid and creamy textures such as HD Skin foundation. Its soft, domed shape and smooth-finish base make it easy to blend and stretch the formula. Its tip offers professional precision. Washable in soapy water.
On April 20, 2022, La Société d'encouragement pour l'industrie nationale (Sein) organized the Montgolfier Awards ceremony at the Hôtel de l'Industrie in Paris. Olivier Fahy, CEO of the Berkem industrial chemicals group, was presented with the Prix Montgolfier 2022 in the eponymous category by Jean-François Fauvaque and Sylvie Latieule, respectively Chairman and member of the "chemical arts" committee.
Every year, the Société d'encouragement pour l'industrie nationale pays tribute to fast-growing business leaders by awarding them the Montgolfier Medal, a distinction designed to recognize personalities who deserve recognition commensurate with their boldness and capacity for innovation. Olivier Fahy succeeds Samuel Stremsdoerfer, founder and CEO of Jet Metal Technologies, and Vivien Henryon, founder and CEO of Lyon-based Activation, as the 2020 and 2021 winners respectively in the same category.
The "Montgolfiers", named after the two Montgolfier brothers, one of whom was one of the founders of the company in 1801, are intended to draw attention to entrepreneurs and inventors from the economic, industrial and commercial worlds, who are rising stars and deserve, in the interests of France, to be more widely known.
Laureates are selected by the Society's eight statutory committees: mechanical arts (created in 1801); chemical arts (1801); agriculture and food industries (1801); commerce and transport (1801); economic arts (1801); construction and fine arts (1879); physical arts (1947); communication and training (1996).
"It's an honor to receive this award in this symbolic location that has been steeped in history for over 200 years. The name Montgolfier rhymes with the idea of innovation and perseverance, and that's what we're trying to do within the Berkem group: integrate plant-based chemistry into the heart of our daily lives by accompanying the transition of players in conventional chemistry."said Olivier Fahy.
Photo: (left to right) Olivier Mousson, President of Sein, Jean-François Fauvaque, Olivier Fahy and Sylvie Latieule - Credits Sein.
Some 100 experts from the perfume industry will meet in Paris, on the 1ster July 2022 to discuss the future of perfumery.
Perfumers, designers, brands, distributors, retailers, raw material producers, packaging manufacturers, trainers, teachers and publicists will come together to discuss and define the future direction of the perfume and fragrance professions, in response to the challenges of a changing world.
Tous au Parfum! is the title of the event.
"In ancient Greece, "aller au parfum" meant "to get together to discuss". Today, in everyday French, "être au parfum" means "to be aware of". From the sharing of ideas, from a discussion forum, from face-to-face meetings, from openness, from dialogue, from accurate information, from collaboration, comes freedom, creativity, innovation and therefore development".say the organizers.
Under the presidency of perfumer Serge Lutens and an international honorary committee, tributes will be paid to eminent contemporary figures in perfumery, including Jean Kerléo, Jean Patou's nose and founder of the Osmothèque, and Pierre Dinand, creator of countless perfume bottles.
The program includes conferences, workshops, the New Luxury Awards ceremony and a gala dinner in support of Murano glassmakers.
Organized by the International Perfume Foundation and Marquise Invest, this third edition of the New Luxury Awards will reward perfumers and brands for their efforts to protect the environment and respect the new luxury code.
"Our aim is to stimulate fragrance and packaging creativity by adopting the New Luxury Code as sustainability standards for authenticity, integrity and transparency. This competition also aims to create a link between new perfumers, new designers and perfumery or packaging students."explains Creezy Courtoy, President of the International Perfume Foundation.
The event will take place on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, at the Hôtel de l'Industrie. The ideal place to host this first international meeting of the perfume trades and discover the future of the perfume industry, sustainable packaging, new extraction processes, know-how and smell the finest raw materials.
Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, has been honored at the BSB Innovation Awards.
The award aims to promote innovation in cosmetics and natural products, rewarding raw materials, finished products, applied concepts and products with a positive environmental impact. Over the years, it has become a benchmark, with a growing number of entries from international brands every year.
At the 2022 edition, Lipoid Kosmetik was awarded first prize in the natural products/raw materials category in the "Recipients" sub-section for its Herbamilk Eco product line. The international jury declared: "The product capitalizes on the herbal milk trend and is convincing thanks to a good marketing concept.
In the "Collagen" sub-category, the jury awarded second prize to PhytoCollagen, a natural alternative to animal collagen developed by the company.
"We are very proud to once again be represented among the winners of this year's BSB Innovation Award, as it demonstrates our continued success in developing new and innovative raw materials."says Lipoid Kosmetik.
PhytoCollagen also won Silver in the in-cosmetics Global Green Ingredient Award 2022.
The in-cosmetics Global Award is one of the most prestigious awards in the global cosmetics industry, with over 180 entries in three categories. The Green Ingredient Award is given to ingredients that make a significant environmental or social difference in the field of sustainability, combined with a convincing concept and excellent clinical data. PhytoCollagen was selected from over 60 entries from international companies.
