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L'Oréal partners with an application dedicated to menstrual cycles

L'Oréal joins forces with Clue, a leading Femtech application dedicated to menstrual cycles, to enhance scientific understanding of the effects of hormones on skin health.

L'Oréal announces a partnership with Femtech Clue, an app dedicated to menstrual cycles, to enrich knowledge on the links between skin health and hormonal cycles. This collaboration will combine L'Oréal's historical expertise and ambitions in connected beauty, with Clue's leadership in menstrual cycle data thanks to its 12 million subscribers in 190 countries. In addition, Clue will collaborate with L'Oréal's Active Cosmetics division and its medical experts to develop scientifically informed content on hormonal cycles and skin, which will enrich Clue's documentation available on Helloclue.com.

"We are very pleased with this strategic partnership with Clue, a world leader in Femtech and data for health. At L'Oréal, we are convinced that the innovation we bring to consumers in terms of beauty and well-being lies at the crossroads of science and technology. Through this partnership, we aim to drive scientific innovation forward. Our goal is to develop the best personalized skincare routines for people of all ages, from menarche to menopause, taking into account the health of their skin, as well as their aspirations for beauty and well-being."says Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal.

"Our division works closely with physicians around the world. We are delighted to join forces with Clue, to involve dermatologists, endocrinologists and gynecologists in our drive to better understand the impact of hormonal cycles and to meet women's needs by enabling them to take better care of their skin."comments Myriam Cohen-Welgryn, General Manager of L'Oréal's Active Cosmetics division.

"We're delighted to be working with the world's number one beauty company to advance knowledge of the effects of menstrual cycles on skin health," says Audrey Tsang, co-CEO of Clue. Along with menstruation, skin health is the subject most closely followed by our subscribers. Thanks to L'Oréal's vast scientific knowledge, we will be able to bring new and valuable information to our community and to all consumers on such an essential subject, enabling them to make informed choices thanks to science, technology and data".

Cosmetic testing: Eurofins acquires Bioskin

Eurofins - Bioskin

The Cosmetics & Personal Care Testing division of Eurofins, a provider of sunscreen cosmetics and personal care testing, offers a comprehensive range of testing and clinical services in Europe, North America, Asia-Pacific and Africa.

As part of its strategy to reinforce its global leadership in cosmetics and personal care and to diversify its clinical trial offering in dermatology, drugs and medical devices, Eurofins announces that it has successfully completed the acquisition of bioskin, a German specialist in testing for drugs, medical devices, food supplements and cosmetics.

Over the past 30 years, bioskin has built up a reputation for excellence in conducting dermatology clinical trials for drugs and medical devices. The company employs over 60 people at its Hamburg site, and generated sales of over €11 million in 2020. Bioskin brings to Eurofins innovative capabilities, a strong position in early phase studies and proof-of-concept models, international multicenter phase II-III studies, as well as unique expertise with its own in-house research center.

With this acquisition, Eurofins intends to offer a range of complementary services, support its growth and diversify its offering and capabilities to provide its customers with access to multi-center studies.

Gilles Martin, CEO of Eurofins, said: "Cosmetics, suncare and personal care products have an impact on our health and well-being. Manufacturers active in these fast-growing sectors are constantly innovating to develop better products for consumers and patients. So today we're very excited to be partnering with bioskin and broadening and deepening the range of tests and quality of service we can offer our customers in the development of cosmetics, personal care and dermatology products."

Photo credit : Pixabay

Silab continues its commitment to biodiversity

Silab continues to affirm its commitment to biodiversity, notably by joining the UEBT (Union for ethical biotrade), a non-profit association that works for supplies that respect people and nature. 

For many years, Silab has been implementing good practices in responsible sourcing. Brigitte CLoss-Gonthier, Managing Director for Innovation, comments: " Silab has always considered nature as a source of inspiration and its primary resource of raw materials. In this respect, we are committed to responsibility, transparency and solidarity, with the aim of positively and fairly influencing each of our supply chains. In particular, we work closely with our suppliers and producers of natural raw materials to help them achieve greater sustainability.

This strong commitment to responsible sourcing is naturally one of the five strategic pillars of the company's overall CSR policy, detailed in its program Actively Caring. In line with its value of independence, Silab wishes to pursue a collaborative strategy, integrating different partners and stakeholders. In the long term, the objective is to be able to observe concrete progress on environmental and socio-economic markers linked to the supply chains. As such, and in line with this sustainable and continuous improvement approach, the company is now associated with the UEBT by becoming an official member and intends to reinforce its commitment via other partnerships.

Freshly Cosmetics: a routine to unleash the natural power of curls

Launched in 2016 by three young Catalan chemical engineers, the young company Freshly Cosmetics advocates healthy, sustainable cosmetics.

The company lanxe Wonder Curls: the combination of two innovative formulas to combat unruly, dull, dry hair and achieve supple, defined curls, moisturized, voluminous and naturally shiny hair. The stated aim of the routine: to unleash the natural power of curls.

"Thanks to the natural active ingredients in Curly Vibes Defining Cream and the 100 % natural ingredients in Radiant Curls Oil Serum, this routine goes beyond the outside of the hair, taking care of the inside of each hair fiber.says Freshly Cosmetics.

Curls or waves of varying degrees of lightness right from the roots: according to the company, the Wonder Curls daily routine from Freshly Cosmetics maximizes hair's natural curls by improving definition, shine and suppleness.

Laboratoires Expanscience launch a new active ingredient and a new sensory ingredient

In line with its CSR approach and its commitment to responsible sourcing, Expanscience is offering two new 100 % products of natural origin, which contribute to the well-being of body and mind, while being good and restorative for the planet.

Ayuredi, a new 100 % natural holistic active ingredient, Cosmos approved1 

Extracted from the leaves of holy basil, more commonly known as Tulsi in Hindi, this new active ingredient combines the benefits and properties of this plant with its many recognized virtues in Ayurvedic medicine. Sourced from the Chiang Mai region of Thailand, holy basil (Ocimum sanctum) is considered the "Queen of plants" in Ayurvedic medicine, or a veritable elixir of life.

This adaptogenic plant has rejuvenating, toning and revitalizing properties that help protect the skin from the exposome, improving its ability to cope with the environmental and psychological stresses of daily life.

Rich in polyphenols, this new holistic active ingredient has a 360° action, enabling it to :
- strengthen cellular defenses to combat skin aging,
- boost energy and cellular respiration to illuminate skin,
- reduce inflamm'ageing to soothe the skin.

Ayuredi is an eco-designed active ingredient, obtained by an extraction process that respects people and the environment, patented by Laboratoires Expanscience. It is 100 % natural and Cosmos approved.

Organic illipe butter, a new sensory ingredient that helps combat local deforestation, Fair for Life label2 

Extracted from the seeds of the Shorea stenoptera nut, illipé butter is a sensory ingredient closely related to shea butter and cocoa butter. Also known as Shorea stenoptera butter or tengkawang fat, it has been used for centuries for its protective and nourishing properties.

Its slightly higher melting point (30-38°) than shea and cocoa butters makes it an ideal ingredient in the formulation of solid cosmetics.

Cosmos-certified and Fair for Life-labeled, this new 100 % organic sensory ingredient has been developed by Expanscience, which sources illipe nuts on the island of Borneo. Harvesting the nuts and turning them into butter prevents deforestation and protects the habitat of the island's orangutans. They create an alternative source of income to oil palm cultivation for local communities, thus increasing the economic value of the remaining forest and encouraging these communities to continue protecting it. Every kilogram of illipe butter produced and sold preserves 135 m2 of rainforest.

The ripe nuts are harvested by hand, then boiled to soften the shell. Once opened and sterilized, they are sun-dried before being pressed and filtered in a zero-waste community processing unit to obtain a pure, raw product. The virgin illipe butter is then refined, deodorized and bleached in an organically certified refinery.

On site, Expanscience works with a partner to guarantee the link with communities and respect for social and environmental criteria applied throughout the supply chain from its supply chain to product development This responsible sourcing approach is recognized by Expanscience's B Corp certification since 2018 and by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), an international non-profit association for the preservation of biodiversity and respect for the rules of ethical trade, of which Expanscience has been a member for 10 years.

These two new products enhance a portfolio of 17 active cosmetics and 9 sensory ingredients.

Photo credit: Varuschka Jane Reinsfield-Lord

1. Cosmos: raw material approved by Ecocert Greenlife, compliant with the Cosmos standard (COSMetic Organic Standard). 
2. Fair for life: product labeling program for fair trade and responsible supply chains. 

Robertet: majority stake in Astier Demarest

Robertet has announced the acquisition of a majority stake in Astier Demarest. Founded in 1880, Astier Demarest is a historic family-owned company based in Grasse, specializing in the sourcing and distribution of raw materials for the perfume, cosmetics, aromatherapy and food flavoring industries.

This investment is designed to strengthen the Group's position in aromatic ingredients and in the sustainable sourcing of natural products, with an increased presence at source in certain strategic supply chains.

François and Bruno Destoumieux will continue in their role as general managers, with the support of the Group to help them develop sustainable supply chains and enrich their distribution with Robertet's range of natural and organic ingredients.

"We are proud to welcome Astier Demarest to the Robertet family, and excited at the prospect of combining the strengths of both organizations to better meet the growing needs for traceability and transparency. This acquisition will enable us to consolidate our leadership in natural ingredients and develop ambitious projects for the future".says Julien Maubert, Director of Robertet's Raw Materials Division.

"Astier Demarest is looking forward to the next chapter in its history as part of the Robertet Group. The complementarity of this combination is evident in the family nature of our companies, but also in our shared vision of integrated and sustainable sourcing of natural ingredients."says François Destoumieux, President of Astier Demarest.

in-cosmetics Global Barcelona cancelled

in-cosmetics Global and Asia are now scheduled for 2022, while in-cosmetics Latin America has been postponed to November 2021. 

Reed Exhibitions announced that in-cosmetics Global and in-cosmetics Asia have been postponed. in-cosmetics Global Barcelona, which was scheduled to take place in early October, has been canceled to make way for in-cosmetics Global Paris, which will be held April 5-7, 2022. in-cosmetics Asia will be held November 1-3, 2022, in Bangkok. in-cosmetics Latin America, which was scheduled to take place in Sao Paulo, Brazil, September 22-23, 2021, has been postponed to November 10-11.

The decision to reschedule the global and regional event is due to ongoing travel restrictions due to the pandemic.

Roziani Zulkifli, director of in-cosmetics Global, said: "Despite the events that are currently unfolding, we must consider the international nature of in-cosmetics Global. We have seen positive signs in recent months with successes in the rollout of the vaccine program, but new variants have created increased uncertainty and steady progress is not the case everywhere. We have been in constant contact with exhibitors and visitors, and it is clear that the level of confidence to travel and attend large international B2B shows in the cosmetics industry is not yet there. Our primary goal is to meet the expectations of our exhibitors and visitors, and we believe that will be the case in 2022."

Sarah Gibson, director of the in-cosmetics Asia exhibition, for her part explained: "Covid cases in Thailand are increasing, with Bangkok and neighboring provinces placed in the dark red zone of maximum restrictions to curb the spread of infection. New cases of the Delta variant are increasing across Asia, with widespread travel bans and further tightening of government traffic measures. We believe the most responsible decision at this point is to allow time for Thailand and the Asean region to recover and, once safety is assured, to bring the Asian cosmetic community back together in 2022."

Daniel Zanetti, director of in-cosmetics Latin America, commented: "After monitoring the coronavirus situation in Brazil, we decided to postpone our Latin America show until November, which will give the country's vaccination program an additional seven weeks to build immunity. This was a difficult decision to make, as we recognize the importance of the event to the region's personal care industry and the demand for face-to-face contact. However, we believe this is the best solution for all parties involved to ensure a quality trade event for our exhibitors and attendees."

Have a good vacation!

The entire team ofIndustries Cosmétiques wishes you a good vacation!

Our website is taking a break for a few weeks. We look forward to seeing you at the beginning of the new school year: the right time to meet at the various perfumery and cosmetics events that will take place!

If you are really in need of information on these subjects, take advantage of the summer to consult our expert opinion or for listen again to our podcasts !

Thank you again for your support throughout the season. Now it's time for the vacations!

Industries Cosmétiques

Tahiti arrives at the hotel

site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of sunscreen and a straw hat on a Tahitian beach.

Because it is important to protect your skin throughout the day, Hei Poa (Gilbert Laboratories) launches an exclusive line of hotel products in collaboration with GM Group. Thanks to this partnership, it is now possible to offer hotel guests sun care products rich in monoi, with notes of tiare flower.

Authenticity, sensoriality, escape and tradition: the core values of the Hei Poa brand are reflected in its seductive line of hospitality products. Practical and easy to use, the new range consists of a sun lotion SPF30 with monoi, guaranteeing high protection of the skin against UVA/UVB rays, as well as a milky after-sun spray with Tahitian monoi and aloe vera, to durably soothe and comfort the skin after a day of exposure. Pure Tahitian Monoi AO completes the range, providing daily hydration* and adding a touch of luxury to this cosmetic experience.

Traditionally used by Tahitians, monoi is a natural oil extracted from the pulp of the coconut, in which fresh tiare flowers have been macerated.

YouTube video

Monoi is mainly used for massage, but also for skin and hair care. It is known for its moisturizing and skin nourishing properties. Each of these three products is distinguished by its unique fragrance, inspired by the beauty rituals of French Polynesia. With refreshing notes of tiare flower, orange blossom and coconut, the exoticism of the Hei Poa sun milk is enhanced by powdery notes of vanilla. The after-sun milk, meanwhile, offers revitalizing top notes of freesia and coconut water, accompanied by heart notes of vanilla, jasmine, neroli, frangipani, tiare and ylang-ylang. The range is completed by the fragrance of pure Tahitian monoi AO, a blend of white flower, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, heliotrope, vanilla and coconut scents that takes the senses on a journey to the idyllic islands of French Polynesia.

The Monoi sun lotion and the after-sun milk spray are available in 40 ml bottles while the pure Tahitian Monoi AO is available in 30 ml bottles. Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said " We are thrilled to launch this great line of hospitality products with Hei Poa, an authentic and innovative brand that has been a part of French life for 45 years. Inspired by the treasures of nature, Hei Poa is a perfect fit with GM Group's values. We look forward to distributing this new product line to hotels around the world. ".

Upon opening the bottles, the journey is immediate. The traditional scents of monoi invade the room, and wherever you are, you are actually on the beach! The solar milk is rich, with a greasy feeling, but is easily sprayed. We just regret that the product in 30 ml is proposed today in SPF30 only. The after-sun spray is more delicate and fresher. It can be sprayed on just as easily to soothe areas reddened by the sun. Finally, pure Tahitian monoi is true to its reputation and expectations. A recognizable fragrance and maximum coverage. Have a great vacation!

N.G.

*Hydration of the superficial layers of the epidermis.

Camellia Oil Cleanser

site-industries-cosmetiques A white flower with a bottle of camellia oil make-up remover next to it.

Bernard Cassière has designed a new range of make-up remover imagined. Inclusive by nature, the brand from the world of beauty salons wanted its 6 sensory formulas to meet the expectations of everyone, regardless of their skin type. Even the most delicate skin types can use these products (all tested under dermatological and ophthalmological control on a panel of 100 % sensitive skin), which strike a balance between formulas with a high content of natural ingredients and effectiveness in removing makeup and impurities accumulated throughout the day.

More than just make-up removers, they are real pre-care products, each based on the power of camellia extract, obtained from the leaves and flowers of Camellia japonica. This active ingredient is distinguished by its richness in phenolic compounds, oligo and polysaccharides, amino acids and proteins that give this flower a repairing, antioxidant, soothing or astringent power. If the simple fact of proceeding daily to a make-up removal in good and due form constitutes de facto one of the essential keys to regaining a beautiful skin, this is even more true when the said cleansing is carried out with these care products offering gentle galenics and active formulas. Balm, oil, milk or even micellar water, the variety of textures will allow you to find the one that will bring the most pleasure to the application.

Focus on oil

For a long time, combination skin with a tendency to be oily did not use makeup remover oil, believing that its texture would only make their skin balance even more difficult to control. On the contrary, this galenic is ideal for removing impurities and excess sebum while leaving the skin soft and comfortable, without tightness. It is in any case the performance signed by this new oil which is surprisingly fluid and easy to rinse. Ideal for a fast make-up removal of the face and the eyes, its effectiveness was tested on the sensitive skins to which it is appropriate perfectly. It contains 90 % of natural ingredients and combines Japanese Camellia extract and balancing Jojoba oil. To take full advantage of its benefits, simply warm the oil in the palm of your hands before massaging in circular movements on dry skin, gently of course so as not to "crease" the skin tissue. We then add a little water to operate a final transformation oil in milk before rinsing with warm water.

When used, the successive operations are very pleasant and leave your skin clean and silky. A success!

N.G.

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