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Skinobs preclinical platform celebrates its first anniversary

site-industries-cosmetiques An image of a woman's face with lines on it, celebrating the first anniversary of the Skinobs "preclinical" platform.

One year after its launch, over 5,000 users from 80 countries have consulted more than 57,000 pages on the two clinical and preclinical platforms. With over 1,000 users, the Preclinical platform accounts for 42 % of consultations.

Skinobs' preclinical testing platform is designed for cosmeticians looking for screening or proof-of-concept of the mechanisms of action of active ingredients or finished products in-tubo, on cell models, co-cultures, 3D models of reconstructed or bio-printed skin or explants.

Just like the platform dedicated to clinical testing, this unique tool enables test managers to identify methods, biomarkers and testing laboratories worldwide, free of charge, to speed up your evaluation projects. The platform is updated daily.

Top 10 claims: anti-ageing, moisturizing, anti-oxidant, microbiota, anti-uv, non-irritant, anti-pollution, anti-inflammatory, reinforces skin barrier and slimming.

A unique panorama of preclinical tests

The platform presents 500 tests, accessible from 125 referenced laboratories, according to 8 pre-selection categories:

  • Stability and physico-chemical testing
  • Microbiology
  • Security
  • Skin absorption
  • Biodegradability and ecotoxicity
  • Container-content interaction
  • Efficiency
  • UV, UVA, UVB, Infrared or blue light

"Attentive to trends and developments in nail, hair and skin testing technologies, we work to continuously improve our database. The expectations of cosmeticians and test providers are at the heart of our independent and exhaustive approach. "Anne Charpentier, founder and CEO of Skinobs.

Texen intensifies its research on eco-design materials

site-industries-cosmetiques Transparent jars, lids and tables.

Accelerating the ecological transition of cosmetics packaging, Texen is consolidating its materials expertise with a broader partnership approach. One of the objectives of the materials R&D roadmap is to make eco-design accessible to all brands and distributors, whatever their size and environmental maturity, through streamlined, customizable solutions.
Texen's mission is to transform materials into experiences in a virtuous way. Texen positions itself as a solutions provider for brands and distributors, thanks to a qualified eco-material library and the efficiency of its Texen Lab (R&D and technical support). 

SK Chemicals, a model of collaboration

As part of this optimization exercise, Texen is broadening its field of investigation and initiating flexible, responsive partnerships with certain materials suppliers. For example, Texen is collaborating with SK Chemicals, whose relevant catalog and collaborative investigation approach are a promise of responsible design. 

Innovation in materials

To meet market requirements such as transparency, juice resistance and compatibility with household recycling channels, SK Chemicals offers a wide range of copolyesters, including a complete range (Ecotria) combining copolyesters and recycled PET. Thanks to the chemical recycling of copolyesters, this range is pollution-free and therefore color-neutral. In this way, it meets customers' expectations in terms of eco-responsibility.  

Standard products and customer developments

The collaboration covers both standard Texen developments and specific projects. Standard products from Texen products are now available in Ecotria R, composed of 70 % PETG and 30 % PET from mechanical bottle recycling. They are recyclable in the PET recycling chain.
Whatever their size and maturity, market demand invariably focuses on the recycling method used to produce the injected material, its recycled content, recyclability and performance in use.

Texen's material library

Over the last few years, Texen, via the Texen Lab, has tested and validated a panel of materials for beauty and spirits applications (injection process, compatibility with decors and formulas...). Texen's objective is to be a source of proposals through the objectivity of its material characterizations. A collaborative tool will see the light of day in the second half of 2021 to pave the way for promising developments with its partners.

Gattefossé: three products awarded the ERI 360° label

site-industries-cosmetiques A jar of Eucalyptus cream on a marble table at Gattefossé.

Gattefossé is committed to continuous improvement and an ambitious CSR approach, and has been awarded the ERI 360° label for three of its major cosmetic ingredients.

This label, co-created in 2018 by players in the cosmetics industry including Gattefossé, and developed by Innov'Alliance, assesses a product's entire life cycle, from origin to market.

ERI 360°: assessing an ingredient's level of environmental responsibility

The ERI 360° label brings together a set of tools and guidelines for measuring the sustainability and eco-design of an ingredient. The reference system analyzes the entire value chain, from plant cultivation and harvesting, right through to the end product.

Through this label, Gattefossé has acquired the skills and tools to carry out a self-diagnosis of its ingredients, with a view to improving the design of new products. There are 3 levels of certification: bronze for a score between 75 and 85/100, silver for a score between 85 and 95/100 and gold for a score above 95/100. Since its creation, 30 ingredients have been awarded the ERI 360° label, and only 2 have been awarded the gold label, proof of its high standards.

At Gattefossé, the sustainability of raw materials is a significant issue. Gattefossé strives to ensure that its raw materials come from reliable, identifiable and renewable sources, through rigorous tracing of their origins.

Right from the product development stage, the company identifies the extraction or production method that will be the most environmentally-friendly and energy-efficient, and that will achieve the desired activity or functionality of the ingredient.

Gattefossé label ingredients

Gattefossé has had three of its cosmetic ingredients audited under the ERI 360° label.

Gattefossé Gatuline Linkn Lift- Ingredients - Product info

Gatuline Link'n Lift, silver label. The first cosmetic anti-aging active ingredient derived from horse chestnut blossoms, using innovative NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) technology. This ingredient is rich in active molecules found only in this flower. It acts on wrinkles around the eyes.

Gattefossé Gatuline Renew- Ingredients - Product info

Gatuline Renew, silver label. A natural extract of carefully selected Japanese cedar buds, this active ingredient is rich in energetic phytochemical molecules that stimulate epidermal renewal. Skin is visibly more hydrated, softer and smoother.

Gattefossé EnergiNius- Ingredients - Product info

EnergiNius, bronze label. Derived from the roots of the Indian Ginseng (Withania somnifera), this ingredient is certified organic and obtained using NaDES technology. It protects skin cells from the artificial visible light emitted by screens, an additional environmental stress induced by our modern lifestyle.

"We have been working for many months to obtain the ERI 360° label for these key ingredients. This label, based on a 100-indicator analysis grid, is one of the strictest currently in force, and focuses on a 360° assessment of an ingredient's production chain. The beauty industry is transforming and has high expectations in terms of sustainability and eco-responsibility, and at Gattefossé we share our customers' commitment to providing more responsible and constantly evolving ingredients. We intend to pursue ERI 360° labeling for other products in the coming months."explains Paula Lennon, Cosmetics Group Manager.

Rated "Gold" by EcoVadis in 2020, after a notable 16-point improvement since the first assessment in 2017, Gattefossé is committed to continuing its CSR efforts across its entire value chain.

Food preservation & cosmetics: similarities and levers for improvement

site-industries-cosmetiques Save the date: Food preservation and cosmetics - similarities and levers for improvement.

Preservation is a major issue in the cosmetics and food sectors. However, these two sectors are not subject to the same constraints, whether regulatory or technical. 

The cosmetics industry is now facing strict regulations concerning its ingredients, particularly via the lists of authorized natural preservatives, which are being reduced year after year. The food industry, on the other hand, is continuously seeking to increase the shelf life of its products while also reducing chemical preservatives. 

Consumers' expectations are the same in both sectors: more natural, healthier and more transparent products.

Having neither the same issues, nor the same products, the two sectors are currently advancing in parallel on the improvement of preservation, but could be a source of inspiration for each other. Thus, the objectives of this day will be to identify the different issues and solutions to improve preservation on the one hand, and to allow the transfer of technologies and skills between the food and cosmetic sectors on the other hand.

See you on September 30th in Lyon!

Pre-program

Morning of lectures:

  • Introduction and context of the day
  • Conservation at the raw material level: post-harvest techniques
  • How to rethink the formulation
  • Conservation by biopreservation
  • Combination of effects: Hurdle approach
  • The use of active packaging

Afternoon: BtoB meetings between all participants.

Full program & registration to come.

Marc-Antoine Jamet re-elected President of Cosmetic Valley

site-industries-cosmetiques Marc-Antoine Jamet re-elected President of Cosmetic Valley, seated in front of a blue wall.

Meeting in the "Grand Amphi" of the University of Orléans on June 29, at the heart of the competitiveness cluster, Cosmetic Valley's Annual General Meeting opened with the re-election of Marc-Antoine Jamet, General Secretary of the LVMH Group, as Chairman, unanimously elected for a further three-year term.

For his third term, the President of Cosmetic Valley will be responsible for promoting national coordination of the French perfumery and cosmetics industry. Today, Cosmetic Valley federates 800 companies, including most of France's major groups and 80 % of SMEs and VSEs, representing all French territories, both in mainland France and overseas, and all the industry's trades: ingredients, processes, packaging, testing, finished products, etc.

With sales of 45 billion euros and 246,000 jobs, Cosmetic Valley claims to embody the values of the "French brand" in perfumery and cosmetics: innovation, performance, product safety, respect for the environment, authenticity of ingredients. The driving force behind a sector that provides France with its second-largest export balance and is a world leader in an increasingly competitive market, Cosmetic Valley emphasizes its ability to create a genuine "industrial fabric" linking major groups and SMEs, private and public players, laboratories, universities and training establishments. The cluster has a strong European and international dimension, and participates in various EU programs. This ecosystem is the world's leading network for cosmetology research.

"I still get the same pleasure out of embodying our unity with public authorities, in the regions, in front of central administrations, and on the international stage, said Marc-Antoine Jamet. The confidence that my peers continue to place in me is an inexhaustible source of pride. We have, it seems to me, collectively grown in strength and legitimacy, moved our issues forward together, and diversified our actions. Of course, we still have many challenges ahead of us. In particular, we must face up to the four major transitions - ecological, technological, economic and digital - which the health crisis has not created, but rather exacerbated. This year has therefore been marked by our resilience and the resumption of our factories and workshops. It must continue with our determined involvement in the revival of growth and jobs in our country. Because we want to ensure our future performance through concrete advances, we are adapting today not only our tools - I'm thinking of the 400 million euros of collaborative projects underway - but also our governance, with directors who reflect even more the diversity and wealth of our members. I expect them to play an active role, and to commit to being our ambassadors, in France and around the world. I am delighted that, in a period of decisive transition, they have decided to renew their confidence in me for a further term at the head of Cosmetic Valley.

Omnisens and GM Group: new line of hospitality products with sustainable materials

site-industries-cosmetiques Table, skin care products

GM Group, one of the international leaders in hospitality products, is launching its new hotel line with the renowned Omnisens brand. Celebrating an active collaboration since 2009, this line of custom hospitality products will be available worldwide through GM Group's extensive distribution network.

The new line enriched with white tea extracts is inspired by the Fraicheur Tonique universe. The formulas, with subtle notes of Green Tea and Bergamot, contain up to 98% of ingredients of natural origin. Inspired by a fertile nature where fragrances, natural ingredients and exceptional textures intermingle, Omnisens awakens the senses and helps to fill up with vitality. Since its creation in 2008, Omnisens has been extending the Esprit Spa well-being to the home with the "Spa at Home" experience and invites everyone to enter their "Garden of the Senses".

https dmscdn.vuelio.co 1- Ingredients - Product info

Featuring Ecopump dispensers in a generous 300 ml size, made from sugar cane and 400 ml Ecofill dispensers manufactured at 100 % from recycled plasticFor the hair and body gel and for the liquid soap, the Omnisens range of hospitality products is fully compliant with the Care About Earth of GM Group. With the launch of this line, GM Group continues its commitment to develop products that minimize its impact on the environment, thus contributing to environmental sustainability for generations to come.

Laurent Marchand, president of GM Group, said, " We are delighted to be working with Omnisens. Fueled by a deep sense of well-being and the richness of nature, we believe this next collection of hospitality products is ideally suited to the needs of guests. It also respects the values of our Care About Earth program. After 12 years of collaboration with Omnisens, we look forward to launching this new line of hospitality products in hotels around the world. "

The new collection offers a wide range of hospitality products, including a shower bath gel, hair and body gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion, available in 30 ml tubes, at 90 % biobased from sugarcane. Hospitality products are also available in 50 ml bottles 100 % biobased from sugarcane. A 20 g soap, a 30 g massage soap and a 40 g exfoliating soap complete the line, as well as 30 g of bath salts, a 30 ml hand cream and a 20 ml dry oil Thé Tonique.

The range also offers Ecopump 300 ml sugar cane dispensers for liquid soap and hair and body gel.

Liquid soap and hair & body gel are available in a refillable and traceable 400 ml Ecofill dispenser, made from 100 % recycled and recyclable plastic with an 8 g recyclable bag. The Ecofill dispenser is a permanent system, the bottle stays in place, only the pouch needs to be changed.

Finally, the hair & body gel, liquid soap and conditioner are also available in 375 ml Ecosource, an exclusive vacuum technology that avoids the use of preservatives in their formulas. The sterile vacuum refills are made from only 11.7g of plastic, offering a unique combination of quality, ecology, innovation and safety.

More on the web : groupgm.com

Arcade Beauty develops its first all-PE eco-refill for L'Oréal

site-industries-cosmetiques Two elvive hair care products on white background with eco-refill.

Arcade Beauty develops its first all-PE eco-refill designed to be recyclable. A perfect illustration of Arcade Beauty's eco-design approach, the 3D Pouch generation offers a host of advantages. These L'Oréal shampoos come in the form of an all-PE eco-refill, lighter than a plastic bottle. A first for the group.

Elvive Color Vive Protective shampoo protects color-treated hair, while Dream Length shampoo cares for long, damaged hair. For its development, the brand wanted an eco-refill with low environmental impact. Arcade Beauty has therefore developed a 3D Pouch in 100 % PE, for which the brand can claim material savings of 75 % compared with 2 bottles of 250 mL shampoo. This eco-refill can be recycled in flexible PE recycling channels where the infrastructures for collection, sorting and recyclability exist locally.

Eco-innovation

Produced at one of the Group's European sites, this totally leak-proof pack comes with a choice of screw cap or service cap. Depending on format (from 30 ml to 1 liter), it is fitted with a gusset to enable it to stand upright.

Now available in single-material PP or PE (including the closure system), the 3D Pouch is part of the Group's global CSR initiative, which aims to offer 100 % of products ready for recycling by 2025.

Xavier Gagey takes over from Tristan Farabet as CEO of Groupe Pochet

site-industries-cosmetiques Tristan Farabet's successor, Xavier Gagey, poses for a photo.

Xavier Gagey appointed Chief Executive Officer of Groupe Pochet and member of the Executive Boardfrom September 1, 2021. 

He will take over from Tristan Farabetsince 2014 to modernize the Group's organization, infrastructure and operating methods, and to place it at the forefront of competitive excellence in the service of customers and a strategy for a sustainable future. On the strength of the fundamental progress achieved, the Group's positioning on new 4.0 technologies, a strengthened team of talents, an enriched value proposition notably on the CSR dimension and well-oriented performances, the Group can now open a new sequence in its history and Tristan Farabet move on to new personal projects. 

A graduate of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d'Electricité (SUPELEC) and with an MBA from EDHEC, Xavier joined the Pochet Group and its Executive Committee in 2018, as General Manager of the Flaconnage division, with a long and rich experience within the Arcelor-Mittal/APERAM Group, both in France and internationally. Over the past 3 years, together with the Flaconnage teams, he has led a marked improvement in the industrial performance of this historic Group division. 

Irène Gosset, Chairman and shareholder of Groupe Pochet, would like to join the Group's Supervisory Board and shareholders in "warmly thanking Tristan for his decisive action on behalf of the Group over the last 7 years, and for the significant progress he has made, which today enables us to look to the future with confidence and to open a new page in the Group's history with Xavier, whose proven talents will benefit all the Group's activities". We wish Tristan every success in his future endeavors. 

[review] Product testing reinvents itself

site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine page with a photo of a product in a store.

The need for sustainable design, health requirements, digital integration, regulations... In just a few months, a combination of major factors has accelerated the redefinition of product testing in-store or at home. Across all beauty segments, brands, distributors and suppliers are working to reinvent the discovery experience, while responding to changing consumer expectations.

This is the theme of the June 2021 issue of the magazine Industries Cosmétiques. To find out more, and to understand how these issues are being taken on board by manufacturers today, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to tell us how she came up with her article... Listen to it immediately on the podcast. Cosmetalks or to read with the review n°30.

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Zanthalene, an active ingredient that mimics the properties of botox

site-industries-cosmetiques A plate with a variety of dishes.

Givaudan Active Beauty presents Zanthalene, a natural modulable active ingredient developed by green fractionation, with botox-like efficacy in modulating skin sensitivity. Created from Zanthoxylum bungeanumZanthalene, commonly known as Sichuan pepper, is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the spice and capable of acting on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure, offering aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas.

All consumers eventually experience the effects of aging on the skin, such as wrinkles and sensitivity. However, many do not wish to reverse these effects through invasive treatments. 

According to a study conducted on behalf of Givaudan Active Beauty186 % of consumers are interested in beauty products containing natural ingredients that help soothe skin discomfort while smoothing it out for a botox-like effect.

Giada Maramaldi, category manager for personal care at Givaudan, said: " Each facial expression activates a large number of muscles. Over time, as collagen production declines, these expressions become even more pronounced and embedded in the skin, leading to the formation of wrinkles. To combat these effects, Zanthalene offers a neurocosmetic strategy that relaxes facial muscles in a safe, reversible and natural way, adding a feeling of comfort while eliminating skin discomfort."

Made from Sichuan pepper, a plant widely used as a spice in Asian cuisine, Zanthalene is extracted from its fruit husks using supercritical CO2. Givaudan Active Beauty claims that its efficacy has been proven in several clinical studies: at low doses (0.5 %), Zanthalene is able to reduce skin discomforts such as itching and sensitivity, bringing a soothing effect to the skin in just a few minutes.

At a higher dosage (1 %), Zanthalene shows an immediate, visible reduction in skin roughness parameters in just 30 minutes, and long-term efficacy over 30 days. The body continues to react even after regular use of the product, creating a virtuous circle of improvement.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, zanthalene is therefore a perfect ingredient for the formulation of beauty products targeting tired skin, aiming for a refreshed appearance and an immediately visible effect.

With over 80 % of consumers willing to buy a concept formulated with botox-like active ingredients, the brand's experts came up with an inspiring marketing concept: Sensilift, a cream based on Zanthalene. Thanks to Vetivyne, Centerox and rose seed oil, which regenerate and plump the skin, this highly natural anti-aging cream is also enriched with Jambu, which energizes the skin and provides a stimulating, moisturizing, comforting and soothing effect.

1 Zanthalene, Global online survey - Givaudan Active Beauty - May 2021

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