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The science of skin care

Craith Lab's new epigenetic skin care line uses Quadpack's airless packaging technology to optimize beauty care

Belgium-based skincare brand Craith Lab was launched in 2019 with a clear premise: to use epigenetic science to benefit cosmetics. Since then, the brand has developed three skin care lines and collaborates with beauty packaging manufacturer and distributor Quadpack to ensure its cutting-edge formulas are packaged using the latest airless technologies.

Considered by many to be one of the "next big things" in skin care, epigenetic studies analyze the impact of our lifestyle on our genes. They take an in-depth look at how our DNA and RNA respond to external factors such as pollution, diet and stress and play a critical role in skin health and aging. Craith Lab translates these discoveries into science-based skin care solutions. "Our philosophy is to protect and heal the skin cells - this is the real key to rejuvenation.says Peter Smeels, CEO of Craith Lab.

The brand has partnered with Quadpack to package its three product lines, developed for customers of different ages and lifestyles:

  • Blue Line: focused on young and sensitive skin, it is enriched with probiotics and helps to solve the problems associated with younger skin.
  • Black Line: its Epi-Powershield3 formula detoxifies the skin while helping to reduce the aging process of the cells.
  • Gold Line: Its EpiTech formula is based on epigenetic technology for rejuvenation.

To ensure the best performance and protection of the formula, Craith Lab has chosen the Regula Airless Jar in 50 ml and the Regula Airless in 30 ml and 50 ml. "We wanted to apply the high quality standards of our formulas to the packaging. Regula Airless is a key element in preserving the stability and performance of the formula and it is made in Europe, which is an added value."adds Peter Smeels. Designed and produced in Germany by Louvrette, a Quadpack company, the Regula Airless range uses a patented system to achieve the benefits of airless technology in different packaging formats.

Craith Lab products are available in European retail outlets and trade shows, as well as on the Beauty App online platform.

Silab quadruples its annual biotech production capacity

Silab, a specialist in the engineering of natural active ingredients, is commissioning a second production line for single-cell organisms at its unique site within its Unité de Production par Biotechnologies (UPB), inaugurated in 2015.

Given the success of its natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, Silab has decided to build a second production line for large-scale cultivation of yeast, microalgae and bacteria. Entirely independent, it comprises a main 15,000 L bioreactor, enabling the company to quadruple its annual production of these high value-added natural raw materials used in the manufacture of its active ingredients.

In fact, these micro-organisms represent a powerful lever for innovation, as Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Deputy Managing Director, Innovation, Silab, points out: "They offer immense potential, not only because of their diversity, but also because of their incredible metabolism. With this new line, Silab is giving itself the means not only to further diversify its production of microorganisms, but also to master their fascinating properties in order to open up access to unique molecules of interest."

Bringing the manufacture of single-cell organisms in-house is also a key strategic focus, in line with the company's widely-claimed value of independence, as Xavier Gaillard, Deputy Managing Director Strategy, Silab, explains: "This 5 million euro capacity investment is part of a wider 30 million euro investment program that has been carried out over three years. It was motivated by our desire to offer the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics markets ever more innovative solutions, while meeting today's major challenges of securing, tracing and sustaining supplies."

Thanks to this new automated production facility, which, like the others on the site, offers excellent ergonomics for technicians, Silab intends to increase its share of natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, which currently account for 20 % of its catalog.

Upcycling: Omegablue, a new Givaudan Active Beauty ingredient made from wild blueberries

Givaudan Active Beauty reuses by-products from the food industry and recovers the seeds of Vaccinium myrtillus to create a natural ingredient capable of repairing skin dryness, irritation and desquamation linked to a weakened lipid barrier.

Omegablue is a cosmetic ingredient created from overcycled wild bilberries, a plant that grows in Central and Northern Europe. It is used for advanced skin repair.

Traditionally used by the food industry for their juice and sugar, bilberries are also an important source of anthocyanidins extracted from the pulp and skin of the fruit for the dietary supplements and pharmaceutical industries. 

What's more, according to Givaudan Active Beauty, the berries' tiny seeds contain up to 20 % of linoleic acid (omega-6) and α-linolenic acid (omega-3) in an optimal ratio; both compounds being known for their ability to improve hydration and skin barrier functionality. 

"Manufactured using a supercritical CO2 process in an overcycling of the seeds of this unique Vaccinum bilberry berry, Omegablue has been developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive and damaged skin. It effectively soothes cutaneous discomfort on a transient or curative basis, and contains sebum-like essential fatty acids forming a protective barrier from external agents."says Giada Maramaldi, Personal Care Category Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.

According to the company, Omegablue's efficacy in surfactant-induced depletion has been demonstrated in clinical tests. "Three days after the injury, the treated area regained its skin barrier function. Omegablue is also highly effective on skin with chronic inflammation (psoriasis), as it significantly reduces the severity of erythema by up to 27%, and scale formation by 28 % in four weeks. The results are even better for skin suffering from eczema, with erythema severity reduced by 37.5 % and itch rate by 42.8 %. In addition, PASI (Psoriasis Area Severity Score) and EASI (Eczema Area Severity Score) were significantly improved, by 27 % and 35 % respectively".says Givaudan Active Beauty.

To illustrate Omegablue's potential in skin and body care applications, Givaudan Active Beauty has formulated a shower oil called S.O. Smooth, with a light, silky texture. Enriched with chia oil, a natural ingredient that gently nourishes the skin, this shower oil cleanses and protects the skin against external aggressions and "restores and maintains the skin barrier to bring skin back into its comfort zone."

Omegablue is part of Givaudan Active Beauty's upcycling collection launched in October 2020. This collection includes eight other functional ingredients.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, waste reduction is now the new standard for sustainability, and cosmetics containing recycled or upcycled ingredients are winning over some 69 % of consumers, particularly in Brazil (80 %) and China (74 %).1. "Consumers are ready to go beyond and make upcycling beauty products a major trend for years to come, without giving up key elements of skin protection."says the company.

1 - CMI Global Study, May 2020.

VPI signs the cap for Rochas' new Girl fragrance

ROCHAS (Interparfums) has chosen VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty), a French specialist in the injection and decoration of aesthetic plastic parts, to produce the cap for Girl de ROCHAS.
Launching in France in March 2021, Girl de Rochas pays homage to women and is fully in line with the expectations of today's consumers, who are increasingly looking for environmentally-friendly creations.

Interparfums wanted to sublimate the cap of this brand-new feminine fragrance with a light, matte hue in the spirit of the minimalist bottle design.
The smooth cylindrical cap made from partially recycled plastic is composed of biobased PP on the inside, and recycled PET and mineral-filled biobased PP on the outside. VPI thus guarantees a minimum of 42% of recycled and biosourced material by weight in the product.
These combinations of materials have enabled us to achieve and maintain the same pastel green hue for the bottle. "Environmentally-friendly actions are firmly anchored in our company policy. We developed this cap in response to our customers' requests and to support them in their CSR strategy and approach," emphasizes Marc Beltrami, VPI Sales Director. This cap, a real technical challenge, is the fruit of close collaboration between Interparfums and VPI teams, in line with an eco-design approach. It covers the 3 sizes developed by Rochas: 40, 60 and 100ml.

My Blue CosmET'IC Congress: microalgae and the sea at the service of beauty

From March 10 to 12, 2021, Banyuls will host the My Blue CosmET'IC international meetings on "beauty and the sea" at the Arago laboratory, a historic site for research into the marine environment.

A three-day conference for the cosmetics industry, organized with the support of the Tara Ocean Foundation, CNRS and Sorbonne University. A half-day exchange with start-ups from research laboratories is also planned.

The aim: to take stock of the latest research and initiatives on the aquatic environment for the entire cosmetics industry, from ingredients to formulations and packaging.

Microalgae will be at the heart of the debate. Used in chemical formulas in soluble or dispersible form (in the form of microparticles that remain in suspension), they also produce chemically fractionated substances (hydrolyzed into sugars) to provide raw materials for the manufacture of biobased polymers. 

Biosourced or eco-responsible packaging will be discussed on several occasions, including a presentation of the Spice initiative (for Sustainable packaging initiative for cosmetics) launched by L'Oréal and environmental consultancy specialist Quantis to build the future of sustainable packaging and reduce the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

The scientific committee includes academics and industrialists. "My Blue CosmET'IC is a unique congress in terms of its scientific value and the scope of the fields covered. International experts will be sharing their work on biodiversity, biomimicry and biodegradability. Ingredients and packaging will also be in the spotlight. Our aim is to provide a clear vision and an objective reading of the data published in the literature. For example, Febea will demonstrate that cosmetics account for a tiny fraction of water pollution. The environmental impact of sunscreens will also be addressed, with the presentation of dedicated tools", says Claudie Willemin, former President of the IFSCC (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists), who initiated the event with Oceanics.

Stéphane Bruzaud, a member of the scientific committee and speaker at the Institut de recherche Dupuy de Lôme (Université de Bretagne-Sud), designs biosourced and biodegradable polymers for the packaging and cosmetics industries in particular (produced from plant biomass, mainly by fermentation). It is also working on adapting the properties of these bacterial and biosourced polymers by modifying the structure of PHAs (polyhydroxyalkanoates) and monitoring their biodegradability in various environments, notably marine. In partnership with the Tara Océan association, it is also working to characterize environmental pollution by plastics and microplastics, designing extraction devices to quantify and qualify them.

Greensea, a subsidiary of Greentech specializing in microalgae cultivation and the transformation of algae into innovative ingredients, is the event's premium sponsor. "My Blue CosmET'IC is an important event. Sponsoring the event enables us to support the industry and, on an industrial level, to initiate new collaborations. We are convinced of the value of the congress, and it seemed only natural to support the initiative launched by Claudie Willemin".says Jean-Yves Berthon, Chairman and CEO of the Greentech Group.

Other sponsors: L'Oréal, Pierre Fabre as well as Codif (a biotechnology and skin biology specialist developing new active ingredients and unique study models), Basf, DSM, Grosset-Fournier & Demachy (an industrial property consultancy), and Seppic, while Mibelle Group sponsors My Blue CosmET'IC Innov'AwaRD, a start-up competition.

The My Blue CosmET'IC conference will be accessible remotely, live, in an interactive and immersive format.


Greensea, premium sponsor

A subsidiary of the Greentech group, Greensea (formerly Aquamer) has been supplying the world market for 35 years with algae, microalgae and active ingredients derived from aquatic plants and destined for various markets, including cosmetics.

The company has some 10,000 liters of production capacity in tubular and annular reactors, and collaborates with Portuguese company Allmicroalgae, a 50-% subsidiary of Greentech, which produces over 100 tons of microalgae each year.

Greensea is taking part in the Oceanomics future investment program in connection with the Tara expeditions.


A European PHA consortium

The Institut de Recherche Dupuy de Lôme is a stakeholder in the European NENU2PHAR project, which aims to develop a sustainable European PHA-based bioplastics industry.

Selected under the H2020 call for projects, the project brings together some 17 partners. The consortium held its kick-off meeting in September 2020. Initiated for a 4.5-year period and coordinated by the CEA, it is supported to the tune of almost 5 million euros by the European Commission. From the selection of bacterial strains or microalgae for PHA production to the formulation and processing of biopolymers and the production of eight different PHA-based products for various application markets, including cosmetics: this project covers the entire value chain for the production and use of PHA-based bioplastics.

Arcade Beauty presents a sample for Prisme Libre by Givenchy

To support the launch of its iconic product, Givenchy entrusted Arcade Beauty with the development of a small-format powder case that reproduces the "shake - stamp - blend" application gesture of loose powder.

This thermo-powder dispenser is one of the Group's most recent innovations. It features four cells containing four shades of powder and a sieve whose laser perforations reproduce the company's 4G logo, in the image of the sales product case. 

Simply lift the lid, place the puff supplied with the sample on the sieve and shake the compact. The ultra-fine, blended texture is applied to the face with the applicator, in a quick, precise gesture to enhance radiance and give the complexion a velvety matte finish.

Clean Beauty: Jolimoi commits to Beautylitic

Faced with a crisis of confidence among consumers, who fear the health risks associated with cosmetic products, beauty manufacturers are reworking their formulas to guarantee transparency to consumers: the emergence of "clean beauty".

Jolimoi, a French beautytech start-up specializing in the social selling of beauty products, has teamed up with Beautylitic, a BtoB Saas platform for cosmetics analysis, to offer its customers greater clarity and transparency.

Evaluating four key criteria - health, pollution, biodiversity and product activity - the platform sets a framework to enable research labs, manufacturers and brands to develop sustainable and transparent cosmetics. 

Clean Beauty" originated in the United States, and originally refers to cosmetics that do not contain any health-controversial ingredients (parabens, phenoxyethanol, synthetic colorants, silicones, sulfated surfactants), explains Candice Colin, founder of Beautylitic. Oe realize that the term is sometimes used opportunistically. Some equate it with organic cosmetics, while others include products made with natural ingredients. Others include sourcing, manufacturing and environmental impact. This confusion obviously doesn't make "clean beauty" any easier to understand.

As of January 2019, Jolimoi is one of the very first companies to adopt the Beautylitic solution to analyze the beauty products distributed on its platform, and in particular their exposure to controversial substances. Products evaluated by Beautylitic are then classified into three categories, according to the composition of their formula. This classification is automatically re-evaluated (thanks to Beautylitic software) on a weekly basis to take account of scientific and regulatory developments.

"Jolimoi was the first French beauty products retailer to take the bold step of providing consumers with full transparency on the composition of the beauty products it sells, with the support of an independent partner to live up to the trust placed in it by its customers, Isabelle Rabier is delightedthe company's founder. Thanks to Beautylitic's technology, beauty stylists are better informed about product composition, and can better advise their community of customers. This pioneering choice is fully in line with Jolimoi's promise to turn the beauty industry's value chain upside down by offering more transparent, qualified and personalized information to consumers, so that they can make a more informed choice".

Transparency, safety, and Green Sciences, L'Oréal unveils its vision of the beauty of the future

 L'Oréal, which has embarked on an in-depth transformation of its Research & Innovation organization by gearing its methods to the needs of its customers, is a key player in this field. Green Sciences (Biosciences), has set itself the target that 95% of its ingredients will be derived from renewable plant sources, abundant minerals or circular processes by 2030, and that 100% of its formulas will have no negative impact on the aquatic environment, in order to offer consumers products that are ever safer, more effective and more respectful of the environment. 
At a time when protecting the planet is an absolute imperative, and when the Covid-19 pandemic is reinforcing demand for products that are both good for health and safe for the environment, L'Oréal is opening a new chapter in its R&I by seeing respect for nature as a driving force for creating renewable alternatives to petroleum-based ingredients. In this way, the Group will draw on recent advances in Green Sciences (Biosciences), to sustainably cultivate ingredients and extract the best from nature through high-tech processes. By 2020, 80% of the Group's raw materials are already readily biodegradable, 59% are renewable, 34% are natural or of natural origin. 29% of the ingredients used in L'Oréal formulas have been developed according to the principles of Green Chemistry1. 

Nicolas Hieronimus, Executive Vice-President of L'Oréal, in charge of the Divisions, declares : "With Green Sciences, we begin a new chapter in L'Oréal Research, the driving force behind our company since its creation. Our ambition for 2030 is to offer women and men all over the world cosmetics that are ever more effective, safe and respectful of the environment". 

To achieve this transition, L'Oréal is mobilizing all the resources of Green Sciences: recent advances in agronomic knowledge, developments in biotechnologies, Green Chemistry, formulation science and modeling tools. The Group also relies on strategic partnerships with universities, start-ups and its own raw materials suppliers. 

Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology, highlights : "Thanks to Green Sciences, we're going to meet the ambitious scientific and technological challenge represented by this transition. And it is this virtuous approach based on the circular economy that will enable us to achieve new levels of performance and discover unprecedented cosmetic benefits, without compromising on quality or safety, in the service of beauty that respects our planet". 

Greater transparency to help consumers make responsible choices 

In response to consumers' legitimate and growing demand for transparency on ingredients and product composition, L'Oréal is further strengthening its approach and launching new initiatives to improve information and dialogue and enable everyone to make informed choices. 

  • L'Oréal is developing its transparency approach through its "At the heart of our products". Launched in March 2019, it answers questions from the general public about the ingredients used in formulas and the composition of its products. The platform, which references almost 1,000 ingredients, is now accessible in 45 countries, in 8 languages (FR/EN/CN/GER/SP/IT/RUS/PORT). This content, based on scientific advances, is gradually being deployed on the websites of the Group's major brands (L'Oréal Paris, Garnier, La Roche-Posay, Maybelline, Redken, Essie, Kérastase, Yves Saint Laurent...). 
  • At the same time, a system for displaying the environmental and social impact of cosmetic products, launched in June 2020 as part of the L'Oréal for the Future program, is being rolled out internationally with the Garnier brand and gradually across all Group brands. 
  • During March 2021, to address the general public directly, an awareness campaign on the At the heart of our products approach will be organized on social networks (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn, YouTube...) in some twenty countries to enable consumers to exchange views with researchers. A pilot scheme, carried out in January 2021 in France, enabled us to reach out to Internet users and establish a highly fruitful dialogue with them. 

Greater safety for consumers and the environment 

Product safety and consideration of their potential impact on the environment are at the heart of L'Oréal's commitment. 
The group pioneered the development of alternative methods to animal testing, creating reconstructed skin models to assess product safety. As early as 1989, L'Oréal stopped testing its products on animals, 14 years before regulations prohibited it. The Group also mobilized to have these alternative methods recognized in China. Since 2014, the Chinese authorities have no longer tested locally produced non-functional cosmetics, and this progress is gradually being extended: since 2021, these same cosmetics imported into China no longer need to be tested on animals, subject to a certificate of compliance with good manufacturing practices. 

On the environmental front, L'Oréal continues to improve the environmental profile of its formulas. In 1995, it set up a research laboratory to measure and model the impact of its products on ecosystems (water and soil) and biodiversity. As part of its L'Oréal for the FutureBy 2030, the Group has set itself the target of 95% of its ingredients being bio-sourced, derived from abundant minerals or circular processes, and 100% of its formulas being assessed using its environmental testing platform, to guarantee their harmlessness on the diversity of coastal and freshwater aquatic ecosystems. 

ADF&PCD and PLD Digital Days on March 23, 25 and 30: registration is open

ADF&PCD and PLD have joined forces with Packaging Première and the prestigious Pentawards design competition to offer three "Digital Days".

The Digital Days are designed to create opportunities for designers, buyers and suppliers to meet, discover the latest trends and innovations from leading brands, and showcase the year's new packaging with the ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards.

Registration is now open for the ADF&PCD and PLD Digital Days on March 23, 25 and 30.

The three Digital Days will be the first digital packaging events of the year, and aim to bring inspiration, networking and the latest innovations to the beauty, beverage, aerosol and dispensing markets. 

To register.

Pharmacosmetech postponed until September 2021

Health news and pandemic-related constraints have prompted the organizers of Pharmacosmetech, a trade show dedicated to services, equipment and processes for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, to postpone the event originally scheduled for June 2021.

Wishing to provide their exhibitors, visitors and partners with optimum business conditions, the show organizers have decided to postpone the 3rd edition - to be called Pharmatech Cosmetech - to September 14, 15 and 16.

Their goal: We want to "offer an innovative, high-performance 3rd edition, combining a cutting-edge industrial and technological offering with qualitative demand."

The 2nd edition of the show was held on September 15, 16 and 17, 2020 at the Parc des Expositions in Chartres.

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