StratiCELL, a Belgian subsidiary of PAT (Plant Advanced Technologies) specialized in objectification tests in vitrohas just launched an innervated reconstructed epidermis project, combining its skills with those of Neuron Experts (Marseille, FR) and Neuroservice (Aix-en-Provence, FR).
Once perfected, this new objectification model in vitro of active ingredients including human sensory neurons will be marketed as part of a range of services focusing on sensations of well-being and soothing of the skin, pain and pruritus.
This model is part of the "IMPROVE" project, which aims to design and develop in vitro 3D skin models of increasing complexity, dedicated to the evaluation of cosmetic, neuro-sensory and dermo-pharmaceutical products.
The Walloon region (Belgium) will part-finance this R&D project to the tune of 760,000 euros over 3 years - an amount which will significantly boost its R&D and innovation capacities. Eventually, these innovative reconstructed skin models will be integrated into StratiCELL's service activity, with a considerable expected impact on the sales of this PAT subsidiary..
Innovation for StratiCell, a subsidiary of PAT
Seppic presents new data on Fluidipure 8G
Seppic presents new results for Fluidipure 8G on its multi-purifying action and protection of the microbiota.
Fluidipure 8G, a biomimetic purifying active, offers complete protection for the skin cocoon. A glycine and sugar biovector, it helps limit the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for skin disorders and formula contamination. A biomimetic acidifier, it helps aggressed skin regain its physiological pH (acid mantle), guaranteeing its integrity. Available in a liquid, transparent form, this active ingredient can be easily integrated into all types of cosmetic products designed for care or hygiene, including processes without/with heating.
This year, Seppic presents three new tests making Fluidipure 8G a multi-purifying active ingredient, protecting "beneficial" microbiota and sensitive skin. Tested in vivo in hair care products, it reduces dandruff, soothes scalp irritation and eliminates unpleasant odors after 5 to 10 shampoos (clinical study carried out on 46 Asian volunteers vs. placebo). Used in skin care products, this active ingredient helps to reduce body odor by preserving bacteria beneficial to our skin. By reducing the quantity of preservatives, Fluidipure 8G is suitable for sensitive skin. For example, a latest test ensures perfect protection for up to 30 months for formulas on fabric masks, with a combination of 2.5% Fluidipure 8G M 8G and 0.1% Sensiva SC 10 or 0.1% Sensiva SC 50 .
Fluidipure offers versatile purifying efficacy coupled with ease of use. It is easily incorporated into hair and scalp care products, deodorants, hygiene products and preservative-free formulas. Its liquid form, efficacy and affordable cost make this active ingredient an obvious asset. Last but not least, it meets the strong worldwide demand for purifying active ingredients.
Test i n vivo - 46 volunteers with dandruff
Shampoo containing 2.5% of Fluidipure 8G, used once every 3 days.
In just 10 shampoos, Fluidipure 8G eliminates dandruff: the scalp is purified.
The company Bullier, manufacturer of Leonard brushes, joins the Medicos group
Lyon-based Medicos Group, chaired by Cédric Marmonier, takes control of Bullier in Saint-Brieuc (Côtes-d'Armor). Stéphanie Bullier, who has held a 100% stake in % since 2012, is selling the company while remaining a minority shareholder.
A family business for seven generations, after the 1840 takeover of the Maison Chérion et Samuel dating back to 1779, the Bullier company designs and produces high-quality brushes for professionals and the general public, mainly for make-up and Fine Arts. An Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) since 2011, Bullier achieved sales of €3.4 million in 2016, employs 30 people, and markets a catalog of over 3,000 brush references, fan-shaped, with pointed, square or round tips, in natural bristles (petit-gris, sable, goat, badger, etc.) or synthetic fibers. These brushes are supplied in particular to the big names in make-up and the main distributors of Fine Arts, under their own brand or the world-famous "Léonard" brand. The company also offers a range of complementary products such as kits, packs and merchandising displays.
Specific series and top-of-the-range items are produced in the workshops, located in the heart of Saint-Brieuc, which handle wick manufacture, ferrule setting, assembly, gluing, marking and inspection with over two hundred years of know-how. In addition, the company has some of its products custom-made in Asia, with the support of its purchasing office in China.
Since 2012, Stéphanie Bullier has been particularly committed to developing and streamlining production processes to reduce delivery times as much as possible. In this way, the company benefits from great flexibility and responsiveness. In recent years, it has increased its export sales to over 40 % of sales. Against this backdrop, it is handing over control of a fast-growing company with the aim of taking it a further step forward in its development.
With the acquisition of Bullier, the Medicos Group aims to further expand its range of "Made in France" services. It also wishes to provide Bullier with its industrial expertise and increased financial resources. The merger will also enable the development of new products for the distribution and application of skincare and make-up products, as well as for the fine arts.
In the short term, new industrial resources will be implemented to rapidly increase Bullier's production in France. In addition, the development of complementary products and the cross-fertilization of customer portfolios will ensure future growth. With this new operation, Medicos Group sales are set to rise sharply in 2017 to well over the €30 million mark.
Strand Cosmetics Europe launches a floral range with anti-pollution powers
The new range designed by Strand Cosmetics Europe combines sensoriality, the delicate fragrance of jasmine flowers and the effectiveness of its selection of active ingredients to provide freshness, soothing and protection for the skin, with anti-pollution and anti-blue light results.
The 5 formulas are distinguished by their original textures, the concentration of active ingredients and their specific benefits: moisturizing, tightening, anti-dark circle, anti-stress, etc. A complementary range for a pleasant, high-performance daily ritual.
Key ingredients in the Flower Power range
- Butterfly tree (buddleia officinalis) flower extract: Protects against damage caused by blue light and stimulates the cellular detoxification system.
- Jasmine flower extract: Refreshing, soothing and antioxidant.
- Bio-polymers extracted from red algae and Tara (Caesalpina spinosa): a film-forming active ingredient with a protective/shielding role and immediate tightening lifting power.
- Centella Asiatica & Calendula extract (eye contour): Anti-puffiness, anti-dark circles.
Floral Eye Contour provides freshness, soothing and immediate, long-lasting protection against urban pollution. The tube's zamak tip makes it easy to apply the gel to the eye contour area, then massage it in to enhance penetration of the active ingredients and activate micro-circulation for anti-dark circle effectiveness.
Floral Day Cream acts like a skin shield. Its texture penetrates gently, leaving a soft, non-sticky veil that moisturizes, soothes and protects skin from external pollution. Its jasmine fragrance plunges you into a soothing, relaxing floral world.
Floral Lotion is a lightly jellied lotion infused with jasmine petals designed to awaken and soothe fragile skin. It leaves a protective, tensing film that prepares skin for the day.
Floral Serum is an ultra-sensorial flower concentrate that envelops the skin in a silky, protective film, with an immediate tightening effect. Bursting with soothing, anti-pollution flower extracts, the skin is ready to receive make-up.
Floral Magic Mask is easily applied all over the face, providing an immediate fresh effect. The real jasmine petals contained in this transparent gel help diffuse the anti-stress and anti-pollution active ingredients throughout the epidermis.
Mill signs new collaboration with L'Oréal group
Designer and manufacturer of metal decors for prestigious products and packaging, Mill is now creating the labels for Viktor&Rolf's best-selling women's fragrance "Flowerbomb", as well as its new spring variation "Flowerbomb Bloom", launched at the end of February 2017. This is a second collaboration within the L'Oréal group after Roger&Gallet, a brand for which Mill has been decorating the caps of the entire fragrance range for over 5 years.
" This is an important referencing for Mill, since with the Flowerbomb collection, we have gained access to the production of a perfume bottle that has become an international must-have since its launch over 10 years ago, and which continues to write its own history. says Jean-Pierre Clerc, Mill Manager.
On the famous faceted bottle, the aluminum label comes in a square version for the eau de parfum and a rectangular version for the eau de toilette. For both models, the label is covered with a powder pink varnish to match the juice. The text appears in tone-on-tone matte. The thin 0.3 mm metal plate is applied with UV glue.
In addition to the manufacture of sheets, Mill worked with its customer to develop customized packaging. In fact, the sheets are delivered in loaders to facilitate installation and bonding.
More generally, prototyping is a major stage in the design of an ornamental label. Respect for hues, colors and gloss is essential to ensure harmony between all components (label, cap, pump, collar). To ensure that the prototype reflects the series to come, Mill develops it on production equipment.
Natrue passes the 5,000 mark for certified products since 2009
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MS swiss cosmetics to the benefits of the Titlis glacier water
MS swiss cosmetics asserts its Swiss identity with a new line of 5 products* which concentrates the purity and benefits of Titlis glacier water to help skin regain its original purity. A line thought through right down to the packaging.
The targeted skin care products - day cream, eye contour, night cream, scrub and lotion - draw their moisturizing, energizing and rebalancing power from Titlis glacier water, rich in minerals and trace elements. Red snow algae stimulates the "Klotho" gene for an antioxidant, detoxifying and anti-aging effect. Finally, the plant complex - ginseng, apple, peach, wheat and barley - plays a protective role against heavy metals and free radicals.
The line's common thread, this trio is combined with targeted active ingredients depending on the care product, such as tetrapeptides with anti-dark circle properties for the eye contour care, menthol for a freshening effect in the lotion, or the apple, lentil, watermelon complex for intense, deep rehydration in the day cream.
The textures are delicate and creamy, providing efficacy and a galenic formula adapted to each care product, for a comforting daily ritual. The packaging has been carefully selected to optimize application.
A tried and tested ritual:
For an optimal anti-aging effect, MS swiss cosmetics recommends combining the application of skin care products twice a day - day, night and eye care - with a massage using Twin Spatula by COSMOGEN. The skin is left feeling relaxed, and benefits fully from the formulas' beneficial effects.
Decorative particles for skincare products
With spring, Lessonia brings natural and elegant 100% solutions to make skincare products, Piece of Nature, blossom.
Based on a selection of flowers and leaves, this range of natural ingredients follows the trend of floral inclusions in cosmetics. In recent years, flowers have blossomed in a wide range of skincare products: massage oils, dry oils, shower gels, cleansers, lotions, creams, masks, shampoos...
Piece of Nature is the perfect range for brands wishing to visibly accentuate the naturalness of their products. The use of decorative particles allows the creation of playful cosmetic products thanks to the diversity of colors and shapes available.
Choose the right decorative particles:
Lessonia's experts can advise on the best decorative particle for each project. Depending on the type of formula required, different constraints may be encountered when using decorative particles. Lessonia can provide specific support for the formulation, stability and packaging of skincare products to be included.
Naturex's Open Innovation program celebrates its first anniversary
Sharing knowledge and solving challenges through the application of groundbreaking technologies have always been at the heart of Naturex's business. Launched in March 2016, the Ingenium program, which aims to encourage technological advances and the introduction of new products through collaboration with external partners, has been a great success this year. Ingenium is well placed to make a positive contribution to Naturex's progress, helping the group to achieve its Bright2020 strategic objectives.
Eight successful collaborations over the year
During 2016, Naturex collaborated with a number of international partners. These cooperations include, among others, a licensing agreement with the Barry Callebaut group that enabled the launch of Cocoactiv', a cocoa extract with a high flavanol content, and with Poland-based Adamed, which led to the market introduction of Aronox®, an aronia extract targeting cardiovascular health. Other companies such as Mazza Innovation, FP Innovation, EPC Natural Products, In-Vitro Plant-tech and Green2Chem have also collaborated with Naturex to develop responsible and innovative natural solutions. The latest transaction involves the acquisition of certain assets from French company Dialpha SAS, including patents, trademarks and clinical studies on three health ingredients. These ingredients, derived from cashew nuts, cinnamon and chicory, are specifically designed to help regulate blood sugar levels and manage weight. The group intends to study the potential of these ingredients, and their synergistic effect in combination with other ingredients in the Naturex portfolio.
Specific avenues for Open Innovation in 2017
"The past year has been a very productive one in terms of Open Innovation at Naturex," explains Doug Klaiber, responsible for the global roll-out of the Ingenium program. "We're delighted with the number of interesting opportunities we've received. We currently have dozens of opportunities in the pipeline, and we're identifying new ones every day. The challenge now is to focus on the most significant ones.
To this end, Naturex has defined four main areas of potential collaboration:
- Natural colors (especially blue, green and red);
- Innovative natural food preservation solutions;
- Natural phytoactive ingredients for health and cosmetic purposes
- Technologies or enriched ingredients of natural origin for nutrition (vitamins and minerals).
Klaiber adds: "We see Ingenium as a flexible tool that will help us achieve our Bright 2020 objectives. Naturex is pleased and proud to share its botanical expertise with partners determined to implement innovative approaches."
Cosmetics exports pass the €12 billion mark
France's cosmetics exports go from strength to strength for the 1era 12 billion mark in 2016, up +2% on 2015.
The balance of trade surplus in the cosmetics sector stands at €9.2 billion, putting cosmetics in second place after the aeronautics sector.
"French cosmetics continue to expand internationally, combining the strengths of a high-quality image with those of innovation". says Patrick O'Quin, President of the Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA).
Growth in North America and Asia offsets European slowdown
Germany, the UK, Spain and Italy all remain in the top 5 of countries to which France exports the most, even if the amount of exports is tending to slow down in these 4 countries.
The slowdown in Europe was largely offset by sustained growth in North America. Exports are up to the United States (+8.5%), Canada (+4.5%) and Mexico (+4%).
The Asia zone as a whole grew by almost 10% in 2016, with increases to China (+15%), Singapore (+13%), South Korea (+18%) and Japan (+4%).
Indeed, while Asia had a more difficult year in 2015, 2016 saw a real recovery across the zone. Growth remains strong in China, despite regulations that are ill-suited to the market's constant innovations.
Asia now accounts for 17% of cosmetics exports.
Instability in other geographic zones
Exports to Latin America (-7.2%), non-EU European countries (-3.5%) and the Middle East (-5.9%), on the other hand, are down sharply.
European countries outside the European Union have been experiencing a decline in exports for several years. The rouble is an unstable currency, and this is having a major impact on our exports to Russia (-13%).
Declines in the Middle East (Saudi Arabia (-18%), United Arab Emirates (-5.8%)) are linked to rapidly changing and increasingly complex regulations, as well as to an economy in transition due to falling oil prices. The purchasing power of Emiratis and Saudis is falling, with major consequences for their consumption of luxury goods.
Exports to North Africa were down by 3.6%, with Egypt the main cause of this decline, with exports down by -27%, again due to the country's very difficult economic situation.
Drivers and new gas pedals of French exports
Skincare and fragrances account for ¾ of French cosmetics exports (43.4% for skincare and 31.3% for fragrances).
"High-end brands are still popular worldwide, and drugstore brands are accelerating their penetration". emphasizes Virginie d'Enfert, FEBEA Director of Economic, Environmental and International Affairs.
Finally, the French cosmetics industry is distinguished by new transformation characteristics which, in addition to product quality, may explain its success. An increased focus on well-being, innovative distribution methods, and investment in science and technology are changing the landscape.
" The sector's players are committed to creating personal and collective well-being, taking care of themselves and the environment. They are building new Internet distribution strategies and developing new physical outlets, such as their own boutiques. And companies are deploying the personalized, connected and technological cosmetics market, ushering in a new era. adds Patrick O'Quin, Chairman of the FEBEA.
