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Industry: a perfumer makes production and cleaning of its facilities more reliable with a new hose

By
The editorial staff
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Pipe - Industry

Aflex Hose's Bioflex Ultra PTFE hose technology selected in a luxury perfumer's production workshop

Aflex Hose, the world's leading manufacturer of coated PTFE flexible tubing, equips a fluid transfer line at one of the world's leading manufacturers of coated PTFE tubing. perfumer in France. Aflex's technology was chosen because it was the only one that fully met the needs of the application.

The production site, which has been using Aflex Bioflex Ultra since 2018, has specialized since 2004 in the manufacture and packaging of fragrances with or without alcohol, but also cosmetics such as milks for the body lotions or make-up remover. The plant does not use CIP cleaning, so the fluid transfer hoses had to withstand passages of 95° alcohol and steam. The working pressure is 7 bar. The existing silicone hoses, from a competitor's manufacturer, posed resistance problems: they oozed, leaked and the internal parts degraded due to the sterilization cleaning process (SIP). This is why the perfumer wanted to change supplier. ATEX and FDA certifications were required.
Aflex Hose, from Watson Marlow Fluid Technology Group, has proposed the Bioflex Ultra PTFE hose for biotech and pharmaceutical fluid transfer applications. Featuring a smooth PTFE inner body for resistance-free flow and easy cleaning, Bioflex Ultra was chosen for its excellent resistance to chemicals over a wide range of operating temperatures, and for its great flexibility in achieving minimal bending radii. Equipped with PTFE-coated Tri-Clamp sanitary fittings, Bioflex Ultra is ATEX and FDA certified, which was not the case for the competing products on the market. The perfumer was already familiar with the quality of Watson Marlow Fluid Technology Group's equipment, since the site was already using CERTA 250 and 701 pumps with BioPure Q-clamp fittings for other applications.

A conclusive one-month trial was carried out with mascaraincluding daily cleaning. The chosen solution proved to be effective and fully in line with the application's requirements.

Patented PTFE design

Aflex Hose's PTFE hoses are the result of a combination of expert engineering and materials knowledge, and the manufacturer is recognized as a pioneer in this field. Thanks to its patented PTFE inner body, Bioflex Ultra boasts excellent chemical and steam resistance, thus eliminating the resistance problems posed by competing hoses. Studies have shown that PTFE outperforms rubber, silicone and PVC in similar applications.
In the model chosen by the perfumer, the Bioflex Ultra is configured GP AS SS RC with PTFE-lined Tri-Clamp fittings, the PTFE inner lining is enriched with 2.5 % carbon, providing antistatic properties. Watson Marlow had pointed out that some of the products used (e.g. cream for the face) and their cleaning process exposed them to the risk of static discharge and hose failure.

Bioflex Ultra's patented PTFE inner-body design allows it to expand on the outside and compress on the inside of an elbow. This maintains a smooth, circular internal geometry throughout the pipe, without deformation. Its PTFE-lined sanitary Tri-Clamp fitting is a unique design that behaves like a seal, with no flow restrictions or retention zones, eliminating the risk of contamination since only PTFE comes into contact with process fluids.
The structure features a smooth inner lining to ensure cleanliness, performance and resistance to high pressures and temperatures from -73°C to 260°C. Cleaning capacity and steam resistance guarantee compliance with the most stringent hygiene standards.
The PTFE inner lining is reinforced with a helical coil and a braid, both in 316 stainless steel, followed by a blue EPDM outer lining, marked to EN16643 and benefiting from several approvals. The hoses are manufactured without the use of adhesives between the various layers, eliminating any possibility of contamination. This structure gives the hose a high degree of flexibility and resistance to torsion, reducing bending and eliminating cracks.
The hoses supplied are 10 m long, with a nominal inside diameter of 19 mm, and a test resistance of 16 bar (tested at 32 bar). The perfumer selected Aflex's Bioflex Ultra technology for its unique advantages, certifications, reduced bending radius and 2-year warranty.

www.watson-marlow.com

SERAM adorns the collar of Mon Paris inténsément, by Yves Saint Laurent

By
Kristel Milet
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Perfume - Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris Intensement Eau De Parfum

SERAM adorns the neck of the bottle with a bi-material satin and organza lavaliere. Mounted on an elastic satin ring, its intense color contrasts with the gold plate engraved with the YSL logo, joining 2 PU panels to form a refined whole. A marriage of colors and materials so dear to the couture of Yves Saint Laurent, retranscribed for an iconic fragrance.

[podcast] New show: Corpo35 Perfume Awards

By
The editorial staff
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Vector graphics - Illustration

Industries Cosmétiques continues its editorial initiatives and launches a new show in the form of a podcast (we were the first to offer this media in the field :-)). We dedicate several episodes to the adventure of the Corpo35 Perfume Awards.

Immerse yourself in the first episode and discover the genesis of the contest with the interview of Cécile Vialla and Charles Berry, founders of this beautiful initiative to promote the culture of perfume and independent perfumery in France.

The first episode is available on our website: by following this link. 

But also in direct listening on the main download platforms, including Apple Podcasts and Spotify

 

Coverpla and Galimard sign a remarkable bottle

By
Kristel Milet
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Perfume - perfume

How to turn a standard offer into a purely identity object capable of sublimating a brand's codes? Coverpla's answer is to offer customization. Galimard entrusted Coverpla with the development of a value-bearing bottle.
Created in 1747, the Galimard perfume house is an iconic institution in the Grasse region. The company entrusted Coverpla with the custom design and development of a generic bottle for all of its men's and women's fragrances. The challenge was to design a product that was both unique and durable, dynamic and visible. The two teams thus embarked on the customization exercise, using Coverpla's global offer.

Pure elegance

For this project, Galimard chose the Soni by Coverpla model in 100 ml, for its sober and tapered silhouette and the premium look of its thick base. The choice of caps then allowed for the differentiation of the fragrances; Eaux de parfum and Perfumes for men and women. The brand chose two cap models: a standard one in zamac decorated with gold or silver and engraved with the coat of arms in the mold, the second one injected in crystal surlyn in the Coverpla workshops.

 Dare the engraved bottle

Determined to push the concept of personalization further, Galimard chose to distinguish its bottle by an engraving positioned on its side. This Coverpla-controlled operation is performed by the glassmaker at the finishing mold stage.

Publication of our international special issue 2020-2021

By
The editorial staff
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Beauty - face make-up

That's it! Our special 2020-2021 issue is out. Our subscribers will soon be receiving it in their mailboxes (even if postal delays are long at the moment...).

The contents of this international English-language issue include innovation on every page, expert opinions and, above all, a major feature on "Cosmetics made in Finland".

This exceptional 2020-2021 issue is available online at : this link.

Happy reading!

Groupe GM launches new Damana Terre & Soleil solid range

By
The editorial staff
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Shower gel - Lotion

As part of its "Care About Earth" program, Groupe GM, a leading operator in the international hotel hospitality sector, is launching the first line of solid hospitality products under the Damana Terre et Soleil brand. It is a celebration of Mediterranean nature. This solid range is enriched with aromatic plant extracts.

Damana is a Groupe GM brand whose watchwords are simplicity and happiness. Driven by these values, Groupe GM has created lines of home products that combine the richness and authenticity of natural, artisanal-inspired products with today's expectations in terms of well-being, efficiency and ecology.

With this new line of solid products, GM Group reaffirms its commitment to sustainable development and strictly complies with the requirements of its "Care About Earth" program, which aims to reduce the impact of products on the environment.

Inspired by the traditional trade of the apothecary, this solid Damana range evokes the craftsmanship of herbalists. It is a line ofamenities formulated with ingredients of natural origin. Thanks to their solid constitution, water consumption is considerably reduced: the quantity of water used is nine times less than that used with conventional formulas.

These dermatological lotions are truly "soap-free", making them ideal for sensitive and atopic skin. They are composed of a blend of gentle surfactants, such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate derived from coconut oil, emulsifiers and emollients. They contain neither sodium bicarbonate nor Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and are therefore suitable for sensitive skin, as their pH is naturally close to that of water.

The packaging for these solid home products is made from FSC-certified cardboard, coated with a water-resistant varnish, and contains no plastic. The range includes three 20 g solid breads: a citrus shower gel, a juniper shampoo and a white nettle conditioner, all of which have been dermatologically tested. With top notes of bergamot and aniseed lemon, and middle notes of cyclamen and lily of the valley, this range of scented home products puts the emphasis on pleasure.

Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, recently said of the new range: " We have always been committed to creating top-quality hotel hospitality products for our customers and partners around the world. We are aware of the growing demand for eco-friendly products and packaging. The new solid Damana range is testimony to GM Group's commitment to excellence and the well-being of its customers, and we will continue our efforts to contribute to a cleaner environment. "

More info : www.groupegm.com

Industries Cosmétiques launches a campaign to support caregivers and research

By
The editorial staff
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Graphic design - Poster

dessin raphael def tiny- Management - Market infoDuring this period of confinement, Industries Cosmétiques decided to have the children draw in support of the nursing staff, firefighters, police officers... and research, with a donation of one euro to the Institut Pasteur for each drawing received.

The magazine invites its readers' children to create their most beautiful work on any subject. We'll be publishing the entries on a regular basis, and web users will be invited to vote for the best ones. The winner's drawing will be published in the June issue of our magazine.

To your pencils and brushes!

To participate, simply go to this page: I participate

Explained in 90 seconds by Céline Dewaele

TNT Global Manufacturing affirms its support for an enhanced recycling process for zamak

By
Kristel Milet
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Tnt Global Manufacturing France - Recycling

A leader in components for the beauty industry, notably zamak caps and decorative accessories for perfume bottles, TNT Global Manufacturing is committed to a responsible, circular economy, and is actively involved in the creation of a self-financed zamak recycling network. The aim is to federate industrial players, the big names in perfumery and distributors. The specially created logo authenticates this approach, as well as the 100% recyclability of this noble material, prized by the luxury goods industry and sought after by Zamak founders.
Recognizing that some players are already individually committed to selective sorting and recycling, TNT Global Manufacturing is working to unite zamak foundries, sorting operators, colleagues in the beauty industry, as well as manufacturers from other sectors, brands, distributors and, ultimately, consumers, within a self-financed, value-added recycling chain.
In practical terms, consumers return zamak caps to distributors, in return for an educational campaign and an incentive, as is already the case for perfume bottles. Initially collected by selective sorting operators, they are then resold to foundries, which are in great demand. The industry is therefore self-financing. It is all the more virtuous in that recycling requires limited energy resources compared to initial production.

"Zamak PCR is a sought-after and highly valued resource, due to its use in numerous products. Our approach focuses on global performance: quality, operational excellence and profitability. says Thomas Diezinger, who met with various players.

The logo precedes the creation of a quality label, which will guarantee the traceability of recycled and/or new zamak, its quality, industrial processing grade and titration, and its compliance with international standards.
At the same time, TNT Global Manufacturing is adopting an eco-design approach - design and production process - to reduce zamak consumption in the manufacture of parts, without compromising quality. Traceability from upstream to downstream will enable transparent communication on the part of everyone involved.

Zamak is 100% recyclable ad infinitum!

Zinc alloys are reusable at 100%. Unused or end-of-life Zamak parts and feed systems are remelted; slag is recovered. The resulting bath is then filtered, analyzed, retitled and analyzed again to check compliance with the standard, then cast into ingots, ready for reuse.

Advantages :
Zamak is 100% recyclable  ...and ad infinitum!
Suitable for the circular economy A hood becomes a door handle, an accessory or even a car seat structure.
Zamak is ecofriendly : Décathlon now offers zamak versus lead fishing sinkers so as not to pollute the oceans. They call it "lead-free sinkers".

TNT Global Manufacturing finalizes the implementation of a a self-financing, value-added recycling chain :  End-of-life zamak products are sold as a resource to smelters.

This This point is crucial, as it largely finances the cost of sorting zamak versus plastic components..

- Eco design A "one-piece" zamak can be recycled, whereas the recycling of a cover including a ballast is more delicate, since it requires disassembly.
- Production wastage recycling During the injection process: 0 to 30% of zamak directly remelted. Optimization of tooling to reduce the proportion of zamak used in the injection process.
- Our ambition :  accelerate and amplify recycling end-of-life zamak components (PCR) in cooperation with our customer partners, so that our zamak components join the long list of manufactured products already recycled.
- Installation a Quality label for managing commitments to the circular economy and communicating benefits zamak products:

  • Guaranteed traceability of zamak, recycled or new
  • Zamak quality
  • Compliance with international standards
  • Recycling of industrial or post-sorted wastage.
  • Pre-recycling / industrial post-recycling / PCR

Coronavirus: LVMH mobilizes to provide millions of masks and hydroalcoholic gels

By
The editorial staff
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Personal protective equipment - safety

LVMH is committed to helping meet the shortage of masks in France. Thanks to the efficiency of its worldwide network, the group has succeeded in finding a Chinese industrial supplier capable of delivering ten million masks to France in the next few days (seven million surgical masks and three million FFP2 masks).

The operation can be repeated for at least four weeks in similar quantities (i.e. around 40 million masks).

In order to secure this order in an extremely tense environment, and to enable production to start as early as March 21, Bernard Arnault asked LVMH to finance the first week of delivery in full, i.e. around five million euros.
The LVMH Group will then manage, deliver and clear all deliveries through customs. Thanks to this contribution and the mobilization of its network, LVMH should be able to deliver the first masks to the French health authorities early next week.

A week earlier, the Group had already committed to producing large quantities of hydroalcoholic gel. It asked its "Perfumes and Cosmetics" division to mobilize its production capacities to manufacture and offer large quantities of this gel to the public authorities. The Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy brands have therefore redirected their production "for as long as necessary".

The cosmetic sector mobilizes and joins the effort to produce hydroalcoholic gels

By
Kristel Milet
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Illinois Department of Corrections - Trial

 The Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA) has announced an intense mobilization of companies in the cosmetics sector (perfumery, care and beauty products, hygiene and hair care) to guarantee the supply of hygiene products, fundamental to the implementation of barrier gestures, such as hand washing. In addition, since last week, companies in the sector have been mobilizing part of their production capacity (some of which had to be converted for this purpose) to cope with the shortage of hydroalcoholic solutions, with priority given to hospitals, clinics, nursing homes, supermarkets and pharmacies, as requested by the French Ministry of Health. Several million additional units are currently being produced and will be launched on the market in the next few days.

Guarantee the supply of hygiene products 

 As part of the measures put in place by the government, hygiene products (in particular) such as soaps, shower gels, cleansing creams... are now essential to preventing the spread of the virus, in particular to ensure certain barrier gestures, such as hand washing. To ensure that there are no shortages, companies in the cosmetics sector are mobilizing to continue producing and selling throughout France. The FEBEA would like to express its gratitude to all the industry's employees and partners for their commitment and dedication. Cosmetics companies are doing their utmost to ensure the protection and health safety of their employees on the move and in the workplace. Several million units of hydroalcoholic gels exceptionally produced by cosmetics companies Another essential product, particularly for healthcare establishments and for the continued operation of many priority sectors, hydroalcoholic gel. Previously reserved for detergents and pharmacists, the production of hydroalcoholic gels has been authorized since Friday March 13, by ministerial decree, for companies in the cosmetics sector, who responded to the government's call for action through at least thirty volunteer companies, including both large groups and SMEs. Some companies have had to convert part of their production line for this purpose. For example several million additional units which can now be marketed throughout France, and some of which have already begun to be delivered to hospitals, where requests are pouring in daily. 

As FEBEA President Patrick O'Quin explains: "In concrete terms, this means that a very large number of companies that usually manufacture perfume or soap have already launched or will launch in the very next few days a new production line and manufacture hydroalcoholic gels, according to one of the formulas approved by the government." This means that additional production is now possible, with voluntary actors. The need for public support and a very clear position to guarantee long-term production capacity for hygiene products and hydroalcoholic gels. Hydroalcoholic gel production capacities are changing daily, as new companies sign up to the scheme, while others are forced to close down certain production sites.

The FEBEA is in the process of making a more precise assessment of current and future production, but it is certain that cosmetics companies will be able to produce several tens of thousands of liters per week. To meet this commitment and maintain their production capacities in terms of hygiene, they need to be able to count on the support of all their stakeholders, including public authorities. Not only to guarantee the supply of raw materials and the shelving of products, but also to enable the employees of the companies concerned to get to their place of work (for example, by promoting childcare solutions, or by clearly reaffirming that the 100-person threshold does not apply to industrial and warehousing premises that are organized to respect barrier procedures) and to work under strict health safety conditions. It is these employees who make this solidarity effort possible and achievable. According to the FEBEA President, "The cosmetics industry is doing everything in its power to contribute to the fight against the Covid-19 epidemic through its production efforts. Our priority today is to protect our employees while continuing to manufacture essential products. We would like to thank the public authorities in advance for taking all necessary measures to ensure that production continues. 

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