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Cosmogen relies on R&D to win over brands

COSMOGEN - Fresh Bottle

At the Luxe Pack trade show held in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024, Cosmogen, a French company specializing in application solutions for cosmetics, unveiled its new products. Innovation was the main theme.

"Our 2024 sales will be at least 15 % higher than in 2023. This is a superb performance, both in terms of our growth and in relation to a market that is rather sluggish.stresses Priscille Allais, CEO of Cosmogen. These results are due to innovation. The main products driving our growth this year are patented products."

Based on five major themes - "cryotherapy", "surgery like", "makeup artist", "candy bar" and "holistic beauty" - the numerous launches unveiled at Luxe Pack Monaco bear witness to the company's dynamism. 

Looking for a cool effect

"The effect of cold on the skin is very popular with consumers, because the effect and the feeling are immediate, explains Maud Lelièvre, Marketing and Communications Manager. This applies not only to skincare products, but also to hybrid skincare and make-up formulas, where the cold effect provides the care and freshness we expect from these formulas. For example, we have developed Fresh Bottle: a small bottle containing a formula with a stainless steel applicator dipped directly into the formula". 

Fresh Boottle is a transparent PET bottle with a stainless steel "dip in" applicator designed for application and massage. The applicator is available in five shapes and textures (Swirl, Mirror, Ribbed, V-Shape, Honey) to target different areas of the face and neck. According to its designers, the immediate cooling effect decongests, tones and firms the skin.

Application precision

site-industries-cosmetiques Three clear glass dropper bottles proudly labeled "COSMOGEN" are arranged side by side, highlighting their innovative design. Each bottle features a metal cap in a distinctive color (silver, rose gold and gold), tempting brands with matching droppers that reflect COSMOGEN's commitment to elegance and quality research and development.

In the medical-inspired, "surgery like" category, Cosmogen has extended its Needle range with its Needle Dropper product. Benefiting from new shades in 2024, the Needle tube was already inspired by cosmetic surgery, with a very fine metal applicator, enabling ultra-precise, targeted application, such as filling in wrinkles or targeting imperfections. The concept has now been extended to include a dropper for precise dosing of the amount of formula applied. "Very easy to use, the Dropper is a market classic. This gave us the idea of merging our popular Needle Tube with this Dropper concept, explains Maud Lelièvre. Needle Dropper combines a PET bottle and pipette with an aluminum applicator for ultra-precise dosing with a luxury finish." Oils, serums, hair care, make-up and hybrid formulas can all be dosed with this applicator.

Make-up: a variety of innovative applicators

The "makeup artist" theme is illustrated by the new Cosmogloss range. This new generation of hybrid applicators, composed of ultra-soft TPE micro-pins for application on the lips or around the eyes, is suitable for light-textured make-up and skincare formulas. It's also ideal for touch-ups, and easier to maintain than a flocked applicator.

For make-up, Cosmogen also offers a professional set of five brushes designed to perfect the complexion: a foundation brush to even out the face, a concealer brush to conceal dark circles, a powder brush for loose/compact powder, a blush brush to tint cheeks and a highlighter brush to sculpt cheekbones. The handle is in aluminum with a matte finish. The PBT bristles are also available in 100 % rPET.

Cosmogen's offer also includes a ceramic Kabuki, a luxurious professional brush available in two shapes: a round shape for compact/free powders, and a beveled shape for blushes and bronzing powders. The ceramic handle provides a cool effect when handled, and a high-end appearance.

Cosmogen also offers a whole range of sponges, including a multi-purpose sponge designed to be used like a finger, with a slanted side to camouflage dark circles, a pointed side to reach targeted areas perfectly, and a domed side to create a light touch. The pebble-shaped r-Cosmoblender range contains 30 % of recycled PU foam (PIR) to reduce waste.

Tips that recall the shape and texture of candy

site-industries-cosmetiques A row of five colorful cosmetic tubes labeled "COSMODEN" with shiny silver caps, each lying on its side, showcases the spirit of cutting-edge R&D. Next to them are assorted round gel drops in red, yellow, green, pink and blue on an immaculate white surface.

The colorful, jello-like silicone tips of the new Jelly Silicon Brus range of hybrid brushes will appeal to those nostalgic for Dragibus candy, and seduce fans of bright colors! Featuring a lacquered wooden handle, these brushes are suitable for skin care, allowing the formula to glide easily over the skin. They can also be used with make-up to conceal imperfections. Special feature: the silicone tip doesn't absorb the formula, avoiding wastage. 

Holistic trend

In Cosmogen's bestselling Squeeze'n range, featuring an applicator tip with patented on/off rotary closure, Squeeze'n Roll is now available in synthetic blue quartz, a more economical solution with properties identical to the original blue quartz. The cold stone helps tighten blood vessels and eliminate fluid that accumulates and causes puffiness.

Cold stones help tighten blood vessels and eliminate fluid that accumulates and causes puffiness. As part of Cosmogen's Squeeze'n range, featuring an applicator tip with patented on/off rotary closure, Squeeze'n roll is now available with synthetic blue quartz. An alternative to the original blue quartz, this synthetic version is more economical. Squeeze'n roll is also available with an applicator in imitation jade (serpentine), obsidian and rose quartz.

Another announcement from the Paris-based SME: its Maxi Squeeze'n Detox range is now also available in TPE. In line with the skinification trend, the tube can be topped with a cap, easy to use thanks to its rotating on/off system, for scalp massage. Once the tube is empty, the applicator can be removed for sorting.

Yaël Zajac

Lancôme chooses HDS Inune for Absolue Les Parfums

Absolue Lancôme

For its first haute parfumerie collection dedicated to Centifolia Rose, grown at the heart of its Domaine de la Rose in Grasse, southern France, Lancôme has selected the HDS Inune refillable pump from Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing systems.

Lancôme's 11 Absolue fragrances are created using two new patented rose extracts, specially developed for the L'Oréal Group brand. The olfactory integrity of the juices is therefore crucial. With its robust design and cutting-edge technology, Aptar Beauty's Inune pump meets this imperative.

Designed without POM (polyoxymethylene), the Inune pump offers a mechanism with no metal contact with the juice. It uses Aptar's High Definition Spray (HDS) technology to ensure that every facet of every fragrance is revealed in all its complexity.

Refillable spray with fine diffusion

With Absolue Les Parfums, Lancôme switches to a refillable system. The HDS Inune pump features an SNI 15 screw neck for easy filling. The HDS Inune refillable pump delivers a light, fine spray with a wide-angle spray pattern. With each spray, it delivers a 70-microliter dose that settles generously on the skin, enriching the fragrance sensory experience.

"We're seeing an increase in niche fragrance collections among luxury brands, using the same packaging solution for a variety of scents. Each brand has its own requirements, and Lancôme's are particularly rigorous, both in terms of aesthetics and technology. Our partnership has resulted in a high-performance distribution solution that blends perfectly with the range's visual identity".says Yaël Letrosne, Senior Account Manager, Aptar Beauty, EMEA.

Featuring an invisible mechanism, the HDS Inune refillable pump is manufactured and decorated at the Aptar Beauty factory in Le Neubourg, France. It is anodized to a shiny gold finish to match the cap and metal plate on the bottle, for a luxurious look. 

Silab wins Wise Ingredients Award with Commusys 

SILAB - Making Cosmetics-Winner

On Wednesday, November 20, 2024, on the sidelines of the Making Cosmetics show in Milan, Silab's Commusys natural anti-aging active won the Wise Ingredients Award in the Active Ingredients

Composed of biopeptides from the yeast Pichia stipitis, grown in Silab's biotechnology plant, this active ingredient offers, according to the company, an innovative anti-aging solution with moisturizing, smoothing and radiance-boosting effects.

Its trump card: its ability to re-establish dermal-epidermal communication altered by aging.

In developing this active ingredient, Silab paid particular attention to trans-compartmental communication between dermis and epidermis during the aging process, an essential component in ensuring skin longevity. 

A modeling study in vitro according to Silab, has enabled us to map for the first time the mediators involved in dermal-epidermal communication, and to demonstrate their deregulation during aging.

The resulting lack of communication alters the biological functions of the epidermis. Silab emphasizes that, thanks to Commusys, the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis are regulated and epidermal functions reactivated.

"Commusys brings together several of our areas of expertise: our in-depth knowledge of skin biology, of course, but also our ability to select and valorize natural peptides, and our cutting-edge mastery of biotechnologies. We have our own biotechnology production unit, enabling us to cultivate yeasts, microalgae and bacteria on a large scale, whose fascinating properties open up access to unique molecules of interest. We are delighted to receive this award, which highlights these three Silab signatures and underlines the scientific innovation behind this asset".comments Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, quality and communications at Silab.

LVMH Recherche and Integrated Biosciences announce research partnership

Woman 50

LVMH Recherche and Integrated Biosciences, a Californian biotech company, have announced a strategic research partnership aimed at discovering new chemical entities targeting aging at the molecular level. This multi-year partnership will leverage Integrated Biosciences' synthetic biology and artificial intelligence (AI) platform.

Thanks to the combination of its proprietary AI and optogenetics platforms, Integrated Biosciences says it is able to train state-of-the-art deep learning models to virtually screen hundreds of thousands of molecules, identifying the most promising first-in-class chemical compounds that potently modulate age-related biological phenotypes.

Founded by scientists from MIT, Harvard University and UC Santa Barbara, and having recently announced a fundraising round led by Sutter Hill Ventures, Integrated Biosciences says it is known for being at the forefront of AI-driven discovery of novel senolytic compounds - anti-aging chemical entities that selectively eliminate pathological "zombie" senescent cells.

"Our partnership with Integrated Biosciences perfectly embodies our vision: to push back the frontiers of scientific discovery, fueling transformative innovations in beauty, said Bruno Bavouzet, President of LVMH Recherche. This is a unique opportunity to evaluate thousands of potential bioactives simultaneously, revolutionizing the pace of our research for the benefit of all our brands, including our flagship es Christian Dior. By combining our expertise in skin research with their research on AI and aging, we are taking a decisive step forward in the understanding and molecular treatment of age-related cellular pathways."

"This collaboration with LVMH Recherche, a world leader in the research and development of luxury consumer products, represents a significant step forward in our shared commitment to fighting ageing through cutting-edge science, said Felix Wong, co-founder and CEO of Integrated Biosciences. We are delighted to integrate our proprietary technology platform with LVMH Recherche's scientific programs, leveraging our ability to control biological stress responses to develop new targeted bioactive molecules. Our combined efforts can lead to biologically functional products that could transform the way people age."

Technature: an innovative SME at the heart of the #ETIncelles program!

Technature ETIncelles

A French SME specializing in the formulation, manufacture and packaging of innovative cosmetic powders and skincare products, Technature has joined the 4th promotion of the national #ETIncelles program.

With the "ETIncelles" program, the French government supports small and medium-sized growth companies (SMEs) in their development into intermediate-sized companies (ETIs), by stimulating their growth and strengthening their resilience on national and international markets.

"I had the honor of representing Technature at the official launch of this 4th promotion at Bercy. It was an inspiring moment, alongside 45 other leaders, all driven by the desire to build the ETIs of tomorrow".wrote Pierre Morvan, President of Technature, in a Linkedin post.

A new stage

Joining this ambitious program, initiated by French President Emmanuel Macron and steered by Antoine Armand, Minister of the Economy, Finance and Industrial and Digital Sovereignty, marks a significant turning point in the company's evolution.

With #ETIncelles, TechNature intends to accelerate its growth by developing innovation, strengthening its teams and supporting major strategic projects in France and abroad.

The company also wants to strengthen its economic impact by creating jobs, generating value and contributing to the dynamism of France and Brittany.

"At Technature, growth is a challenge we take up every day. Rapid growth is an opportunity, but it requires agility and strategic choices. This program will enable us to stay focused on our core business, while acquiring the keys to take the next step: becoming an ETI".stresses Pierre Morvan.

Cosmetic Valley opens a branch in Tahiti

Pacific Cosmetic Valley - Photo credit Sylvain Bachelot

Cosmetic Valley announces the creation of its "Pacific Cosmetic Valley" branch in French Polynesia. The fruit of a strategic partnership with the government of French Polynesia, this opening marks a significant step in the sustainable promotion of Polynesian cosmetopoeia to support local economic development.

French Polynesia, rich in its unique biodiversity and natural resources, is committed to implementing its Innovation Strategy 2030 and the Agricultural Master Plan 2030. The objective is clear: to develop innovative solutions in strategic areas of activity, while preserving and enhancing the region's natural and cultural heritage. As part of this dynamic, Pacific Cosmetic Valley aims to structure sectors of excellence, strengthen partner networks and encourage cooperation on a regional, national and international scale.

An innovative ecosystem for Cosmetopoeia

Pacific Cosmetic Valley's mission is to create an ecosystem conducive to research excellence and the development of exemplary ingredient chains in the cosmetopoeia field.

With its autonomous status since 2004, French Polynesia has exceptional potential for developing innovative cosmetics, highlighting its endemic plants and traditional know-how. Indeed, research into cosmetopoeia, which combines tradition and innovation, is essential to enhance the value of natural resources and meet consumers' growing expectations in terms of sustainability and naturalness.

The creation of this branch is in line with a desire for collaboration between academia and industry. By fostering public/private partnerships, this initiative will supply companies, especially SMEs, with new ingredients and active ingredients of natural origin, while respecting the environment and ancestral knowledge.

The research work carried out by this unit will aim to identify and promote the traditional uses of plants in cosmetics, thus contributing to the preservation of this cultural and natural heritage. Previous studies, such as those carried out in the Marquesas Islands, have already demonstrated the effectiveness of local plants in cosmetics, paving the way for innovation.

A commitment to sustainable development

In line with the United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), Pacific Cosmetic Valley aims to build a more autonomous and self-sufficient development model, based on the knowledge economy and the pursuit of excellence. The project will also contribute to job creation and the development of a social economy in French Polynesia and the Pacific region, notably New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna.

Photo: © Sylvain Bachelot

Groupe GM joins forces with Memo Paris to create an upscale hotel line

GM Group - Memo Paris

Specializing in hospitality products, Groupe GM recently announced its collaboration with Memo Paris. This is the luxury perfume house's first collaboration with Groupe GM.

Founded in 2007 by husband-and-wife team Clara and John Molloy, Memo Paris imagines perfume as a journey, creating fragrances that embody destinations through complex compositions and unexpected notes. 

For this new hotel line, the chosen fragrance is the emblematic Irish Leather of the brand. Inspired by the verdant landscapes of the co-founder's homeland, it recalls the freedom, wilderness and freshness of Irish mornings with notes of juniper berry oil, absolute green mate and leather accord.

The range boasts luxurious black and gold packaging, evoking a sense of travel and adventure, with a geometric design, adorned with galloping wild horses.

Eco-responsible practices

The Memo Paris hotel line includes 40-ml sugarcane tubes with recycled plastic caps that contain up to 98 % of naturally-derived ingredients. A 30 g RSPO-certified solid soap is also available. 

The range also includes large-format dispensers for liquid soap, shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion. Among them, the 300 ml Ghost dispenser, made from recycled plastic, features a rectangular shape reminiscent of Memo bottles. Mounted on a hidden rail, it gives the impression of levitating. For the Memo Paris line, these dispensers are adorned with luxurious gold caps, lending a refined style to hotel bathrooms.

In addition, the line offers the EcoFill dispenser in a large, refillable, secure and hygienic format, with sealed refills guaranteeing product origin and traceability, while avoiding bacterial contamination. The dispenser features two-sided viewing windows, enabling refill bags to be replaced quickly and cleanly, simplifying the work of hotel staff.

Memo Paris' eco-designed range is part of GM Group's Care About Earth program, helping to reduce the environmental impact of products through sustainable practices.

"We are delighted to collaborate with an innovative fragrance brand like Memo Paris to offer our customers sophisticated, eco-responsible hospitality products, while maintaining the level of luxury and quality expected from Groupe GM. This line deeply reflects the core values of both our companies, and enables hotels around the world to pamper their guests with carefully crafted products with captivating stories, personal touches and refined details, transporting guests to another world through unique scents and elegant design."said Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group.

Mane reduces water, gas and chemical consumption with BWT

BWT - Mane

Manecreator and producer of fragrances and aromatic solutions, called on the expertise of the BWT for the replacement of an osmosis plant designed to treat water supplements to steam boilers and cooling towers, resulting in significant savings in water, gas and chemicals, with a return on investment in less than six months.

Based in the Alpes Maritimes, near Grasse, for 150 years, the Mane family group (1,800 employees in France, 7,500 worldwide) is one of the five world leaders in the perfume and aroma industry. 

An independent company with an international reach, the company has built its growth and reputation on technological innovation, particularly in natural extractions, encapsulation and flavoring and fragrance solutions for complex formulations.

Located in Le Bar-sur-Loup, the company's headquarters centralize research, creation and extraction of natural raw materials, as well as industrial production.

Towards a 40 % reduction in site water consumption

Producing continuously (24/7), apart from a three-week summer period of technical monitoring and plant maintenance, the site has a total of seven cooling towers and three boilers, consuming some 45,000 m³ of osmosed and/or softened water per year.

In 2019, to meet the challenges of water abstraction from the Bar-sur-Loup watershed, but also and above all with a view to optimizing the environmental footprint of its industrial processes, Mane has launched a project to replace the 14 m³/h osmosis station, which has been in place for 10 years, in order to maintain the quality of make-up water for steam and cooling circuits, and optimize their industrial performance.

In addition to overly frequent and costly osmosis membrane cleaning (every three months) and a limited downgrading mode due to the existing installation (a single osmosis station supplied with raw water with sequestering agent, and two softeners as finishing units), the conversion rate of 70/30 with a conductivity of 30 µS/cm was insufficient to reduce raw water consumption.

Against this backdrop, the target conversion rate for the new plant was set at 90/10, with a conductivity of 10 µS/cm: a concentration level that would considerably reduce water consumption.

An installation that guarantees production continuity

"Among the bids submitted to Mane at the beginning of 2021, and despite the limited space and volume of the technical room, BWT was bold enough to propose a more complete system than initially requested in the specifications, with a system incorporating a reverse osmosis plant (2 x 8 m³/h) and three softeners".says Mane.

This dual osmosis system guarantees Mane 24/7 production continuity, even in the event of maintenance on one of the osmosis units. As for the softeners installed upstream of the water loop, three in number, again with a view to business continuity (relay mode as required), they limit osmosis membrane clogging, while avoiding the need for sequestering agents. "The originality of the BWT solution and, above all, the fact that it took into account our very tight business continuity constraints were particularly decisive".recalls the Mane utility manager.

In order to avoid any suspension of industrial activity, the dismantling of the existing osmosis plant, the installation of the new BWT osmosis units and the recommissioning of the whole plant will be carried out in August 2021, during the annual technical shutdown.

In practice, one week was enough to dismantle the existing equipment and install the new ones, before the 15-day recommissioning and fine-tuning operations. " Everything was ready on schedule, thanks to the availability, commitment and responsiveness of the BWT teams in charge of installation, in conjunction with the VMF teams.says Mane.

Stable results over time, rapid ROI

BWT was already present on the site, Mane having chosen the BWT Eco-MX solution, for the generation of in situ of fresh biocide solution by salt electrolysis, all connected to BWT Bluwell for remote, real-time monitoring of installations. The seven BWT Eco-MX units (one per RTA) enable Mane to control bacteriological risk.

The osmosis plant renewal project was an opportunity for BWT to confirm to Mane its technical expertise in industrial water treatment and its ability to offer high-performance solutions for complex industrial processes. End-to-end support is also offered, both during the project phase and throughout the plant's life cycle. "The proximity of the BWT South-East branch and the responsiveness of its teams are also real assets for frequent inspection visits".stresses the utility maintenance manager.

Eighteen months after commissioning, the osmosis system achieved higher concentration levels in the cooling circuits than initially estimated, resulting in annual water savings of over 13,200 m³. On the steam boilers, a reduction of 400 MWh per year in gas consumption was measured, as well as a reduction in chlorine reducer requirements (from 1,325 to 350 l/year) and the total elimination of sequestrant use (415 l/year).

By way of example, the supervision provided by the BWT Bluwell solution, and above all its alert systems enabling operators to react more quickly, have enabled a reduction of 6,449 m3 in water top-ups between 2018 and 2019, representing a saving of €47,000 excluding VAT.

These minimized costs, combined with the fact that 65 % of the project was covered by the French energy saving certificate scheme (CEE), gave Mane a return on investment in less than six months. These concrete operational and financial results are now leading the company to pursue its efforts to reduce the environmental footprint of its industrial processes, both in terms of water savings and energy and chemical product reduction, notably through the future use of BWT innovations in their green chemistry strategy.

BWT France is one of the largest subsidiaries of the Austrian group Best Water Technology (BWT), a European specialist in water treatment.

MBO+ sells its stake in Cosmogen to Weinberg Capital Partners and BNP Paribas Développement

COSMOGEN - Fresh Bottle

Taken over from the Alkos group as part of a spin-off orchestrated by MBO+, Cosmogen is now positioned as one of the leaders in innovative application solutions for cosmetics and parapharmacy brands, generating nearly €25 million in sales by 2024. The company operates in Europe, North America, Latin America and Asia, serving both prestigious key accounts and innovative niche brands.

"We are delighted to have supported Priscille Allais and her management team in this transformative stage of Cosmogen's development. Thanks to her leadership, Priscille has been able to strengthen a brand already well established in its market, recognized for its patented innovations and strong commitment to responsibility and sustainability. We wish Priscille and her teams every success in this new cycle, and hope that their strong ambitions will materialize alongside their new partners".says Chloé Miller, Director, MBO+.

MBO+ focused its support on sustaining its growth drivers:

- The recruitment of Priscille Allais as CEO, enabling Cosmogen to benefit from her in-depth sector expertise, as well as her committed CSR stance, and her ability to bring her teams on board and help them grow.

- Cosmogen's refocusing on a sustained policy of innovation, enabling it to broaden its addressable market, and better serve the different types of customers it addresses.

- The development of an ambitious ESG policy, ahead of its time, which nurtures both the company - now a company with a mission, and Ecovadis Silver and B Corp accredited - and its products, from design to manufacture (eco-design, recyclability, removable refillable packs, etc.).

- Strengthening its organization with the recruitment of key high-level profiles in the different geographies where it operates.

"I would like to warmly thank MBO+ for its strategic and visionary support, which has enabled Cosmogen to reach decisive milestones in its development, and I am excited to explore the new opportunities that lie ahead with Weinberg Capital Partners and BNP Paribas Développement."says Priscille Allais, CEO, Cosmogen.

A company with a mission since 2022, Cosmogen is the world expert in innovative, patented and responsible application solutions for cosmetics and now pharmaceutical brands. Its expertise is recognized in four complementary fields: packaging with integrated applicators, brushes, application accessories and dispensing, for skincare, make-up, fragrance and hair. Its ID "Innovation & Development" department detects and anticipates market trends to develop innovative, patented products centered on the expert application of cosmetic formulas, aimed at creating a new consumer experience or acting on efficacy and usage.

In line with its CSR program, 100 % of Cosmogen's innovation process incorporates the 3R criteria: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. This translates into packs and applicators that can be dismantled, recycled and/or refilled, and made from recycled materials. The team has been trained by the eco-design department in the requirements of CSR in innovation, and Cosmogen has developed in-house software for analyzing the life cycle of its products.

Cosmogen is present in Europe, North America, Latin America and Asia to inspire its customers and support them in their projects.

Its new strategic partnership with Weinberg Capital Partners marks a new stage in the company's ambition to accelerate growth in the short and medium term. Since 1982, Cosmogen has established itself with international beauty brands as an expert in the application and design of high value-added primary packaging, offering them customized, reliable, responsible and operational turnkey solutions, now also targeting the pharmaceutical industry.

"The teams are delighted, and fully committed and motivated to lead this new phase of growth with Weinberg Capital Partners, whose investment is a validation of our vision and strategy. It will enable us to accelerate Cosmogen's development while remaining true to what makes us successful today: our culture, our values, our ability to innovate, our high standards and our dedication to our customers".says Priscille Allais.

According to Paul Cordahi, Director at Weinberg Capital Partner, "Priscille Allais has done a remarkable job, positioning Cosmogen as a unique player in a dynamic market. Her reputation with major brands and the wealth of her expertise should enable Cosmogen to continue its strong growth trajectory. It's this first-rate "customer capital" that won us over. We have already identified opportunities for external growth, with the aim of strengthening the company's international presence.

Weinberg Capital Partners is an independent investment company historically active in buyout capital. It then broadened its scope to include real estate assets. Since 2015, the company has been investing in the capital of listed French SMEs/ETIs as a minority shareholder with an active, friendly and long-term approach, complementing its capacity to invest in SMEs/ETIs with a minority strategy focused on sustainable development issues, which offers extra-financial support known as impact, designed to prepare companies for environmental and societal challenges.  

Ecoleaf: design agency Pacproject gives its opinion

Andrew Stack

Pacproject is a design agency based in Hamburg, Germany, serving a global clientele with a distinctive, global consultative approach. In this interview, Andrew Stack, designer and strategic consultant at Pacproject, highlights the crucial importance of sustainability in the modern world of packaging design. He explores the delicate balance between sustainability and design aesthetics, and discusses their recent collaboration with Actega and its innovative technology. Ecoleafan eco-responsible metallization for labels.

Could you tell us more about the creation of Pacproject, its capabilities and the customers you serve?

Certainly. Pacproject is not your typical design agency. Our scope extends from branding, design development, implementation and machine optimization. We serve a diverse clientele, from start-ups to major global corporations, in all packaging-related sectors. We work on numerous projects for a variety of companies, developing innovative solutions that may or may not come to fruition. The essence of Pacproject lies in its exceptional blend of creativity and technical expertise - a key factor that enables us to deliver not only visually appealing designs, but also highly functional solutions.

We have an in-depth understanding of the technical aspects and limitations of a designer's point of view, and our team of engineers is adept at rethinking and challenging conventional methods to develop new solutions. We stand between brand owners and R&D. Our services also include strategic consultation on printing, finishing, form, new technologies and developments, innovation and implementation, and sustainable alternatives. Even before our customers approach us, we are often already aware of potential options, be they new suppliers, materials or technologies.

How does your agency approach working with customers to achieve their packaging design goals, addressing key challenges such as product differentiation, luxury appearance and sustainability?

Every customer has a unique set of requirements and objectives, depending on their product and corporate vision. However, sustainability always remains a high priority. The importance of eco-friendly packaging continues to grow, making it an integral factor in every design process.

Balancing brand identity with technological and product constraints is often the biggest hurdle companies face. The art lies in knowing when and where to push the boundaries and when to compromise. Substituting materials and finishes is a major challenge. One of the main challenges for our customers often involves questions such as: "What alternative materials or methods can I use?"

We see ourselves as constant explorers of new technologies. This includes investment in a molded pulp prototyping machine, 3D printing and rapid prototyping. A significant part of our focus is maintaining the latest information and diving deeper into industry developments. In our branch, we have a dedicated room filled with market samples from around the world, showcasing different packaging designs, finishing effects and material simulations. Our archive covers a wide range of packaging materials, from different substrates to finishes and paperboard. We support and document all packaging-related elements, and have the capacity to create prototypes in-house. This enables us to deliver innovative and sustainable solutions to our customers.

Does the quest for sustainable packaging conflict with the need for striking, high-impact design concepts, and how does this influence the desired quality or aesthetics of the design?**

Designing packaging that is both attractive and durable has become common practice. Sustainability is no longer a luxury, but a necessity for brands that want to remain competitive. Brands are continually looking for designs with strong shelf appeal, as consumers now consider sustainability a crucial factor in their purchasing decisions. This change has significantly transformed the requirements of brand owners. So, while aiming for sustainability, brands are also prioritizing visually appealing packaging that combines environmental responsibility with aesthetic impact to create a powerful first impression.

How do you balance the demands of your customers? Are there solutions available to help you achieve your customers' objectives?

As part of our commitment to providing our customers with the best solutions, we are always on the lookout for trends in the packaging industry. As part of our core business, we advise customers on various sustainable options and their effects on final packaging designs. It's all about finding the optimum solution, while recognizing that there will always be compromises.

Our consultancy uses a two-pronged approach. Working closely with our customers and partners through interactive discussions and workshops from start to finish enables us to understand and meet all their needs. We think together to define their contributions, processes and objectives, and evaluate the best solutions, making recommendations and offering inspiration. Our in-house teams develop concepts, create prototypes and carry out rigorous testing to ensure that we effectively meet everyone's needs. Alternatively, we organize workshops, either leading them directly or moderating them and working alongside their departments, helping them to develop their own solutions.

Could you share your experiences with the partnership between Ecoleaf, Actega's eco-metallization technology and Pacproject?

We had an incredible experience with Ecoleaf, Actega's eco-metallization technology.

Simply put, Ecoleaf is reinventing the metallization process by using "on-demand" metallization, which minimizes waste and optimizes resources while delivering a highly reflective and impactful metallic effect. This technology places metal flakes precisely where they are needed, eliminating the need for PET carrier films and foil reels, significantly reducing waste and plastic use, as well as the environmental impact associated with the production and disposal of these plastics.

Our visit to the Ecoleaf laboratory in Lehrte, Germany, was revealing, enabling us to see first-hand how this revolutionary system works. The Ecoleaf metallization unit is at the heart of the process, installed on a printing press at the beginning, middle or end of the printing process - or even optionally applied off-line - for maximum flexibility. The print result is created by printing a trigger image in a varnish-like material (rather than the glue typically used with foils) that is applied to the substrate by flexographic, screen or inkjet printing. Before the trigger image passes through the metallization unit, it is UV-cured. In the metallization unit, a very thin layer of metallic pigments is applied to a donor roller and then transferred, very precisely, onto the trigger image. After depositing the metallic layer on the trigger image, we found that no additional drying or curing steps were required. This not only makes Ecoleaf extremely environmentally friendly, but also comparatively cost-effective and fast compared with conventional technologies.

What began as a partnership to promote their innovative technology turned into a journey towards sustainability. We were fascinated by the advances in Ecoleaf technology and decided to leverage this technology to promote sustainable alternatives. Our aim was to demonstrate the sustainability benefits of the technology for brand owners, using simplified ACL calculations to demonstrate substantial savings over traditional methods. To take this initiative a step further, we have launched a project in which Actega is providing a free simplified ACL tailored to brand owners' specific applications, as well as a sample label using Ecoleaf technology.

Our venture with Actega for Ecoleaf technology is incredibly exciting, and we look forward to helping raise awareness and implement this remarkable technology.

How has the Ecoleaf project influenced your approach to sustainable packaging design?

Our discovery of Ecoleaf was a real "wow" moment. We pushed the boundaries with bold designs to test the technology's capabilities, and the results were outstanding.

Put simply, knowing that you can set aside your concerns about sustainability when integrating Ecoleaf embellishments, you're free to unleash endless creativity. Ecoleaf offers incredible flexibility, enabling the creation of both flat layers and embossed embellishments. The ability to overprint with any color also enables a veritable palette of metallic effects. Brand owners can now adapt and match their existing colors with metallization, creating a playground for designers to experiment with different color ranges. What's more, Ecoleaf excels at producing precise detail, making it perfect for printing fine decorative details and tactile (raised) images. This enhances the quality and premium perception of finished products.

The technology is simple to set up and integrates seamlessly with various existing printing methods such as flexo, screen and inkjet. This convenience enables rapid changes in artwork, ideal for limited editions and last-minute differentiation or personalization.

In my opinion, Ecoleaf offers a revolutionary solution that takes metallization and packaging design to new heights.

What importance do you attach to new technologies like Ecoleaf for the future of packaging design?

Innovative new technologies like Ecoleaf are crucial to the future of packaging design, enabling companies to balance sustainability with aesthetic appeal. In the quest for true sustainability, improving the recyclability of labels and packaging is as vital as reducing carbon emissions. Ecoleaf technology shows how luxury and environmental stewardship can coexist, offering a competitive edge by meeting consumer demand for eco-friendly options while maintaining visual appeal. This innovation helps brands make a strong first impression and aligns with their sustainability objectives, demonstrating that ecological preservation and economic benefits can indeed go hand in hand.

Finally, what trends do you foresee in packaging design, and what are your aspirations in this constantly evolving field?**.

Packaging design is increasingly scrutinized for its environmental impact. As policies and regulations tighten and consumer awareness rises, a significant trend is the shift to green consumption. Europe, in particular, is focusing on recyclability, circular design and green credits. Transparency, trust and the assessment of ecological impacts in packaging design are becoming increasingly critical. Consumers are increasingly aware of greenwashing, making sustainability a crucial factor in their purchasing decisions.

Equally important is the trend towards premiumization. Packaging design must now balance ecological considerations with a premium appearance. Successfully combining these elements is essential to appeal to today's demanding consumers.

Another emerging trend is the return to authenticity and heritage. People are increasingly looking to the past for inspiration, seeking products that evoke a sense of security and safety. Packaging designs are adopting a more artisanal look, reflecting this desire for authentic, timeless qualities.

Photo: Andrew Stack, designer and strategic consultant at Pacproject.

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