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Bacfarm, winner of Shiseido's fibona EMEA Open Innovation program

Bacfarm-Shiseido

Japanese cosmetics group Shiseido has announced the results of the second edition of its EMEA Open Innovation program, fibona. 

The young Italian company Bacfarm won over the ten-strong jury, which included members of the Shiseido Executive Committee as well as experts from the beauty and innovation sectors. The innovative solution presented by the winning startup will be tested in prototype form for the Gallinée brand's skincare range. 

For this second edition, six startups from around the world were selected from 60 applications. The aim of the competition: to develop new sustainable suncare products, through innovations in UV filters and protection boosters. 

In 2024, the global market for sun protection products will increase by almost $7.9 billion compared to 2023. This growth is linked to the fact that consumers are increasingly aware of the need to protect their skin. 

Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the need to use products that respect the environment. With the fibona program, Shiseido aims to meet the challenges and expectations of the market.

A spin-off from the University of Cagliari in Italy, Bacfarm is an innovative biotech start-up founded by Giulia Guadalupi, Samuele Antonio Gaviano and Davide Emilio Lobina. The company draws on its specific know-how and patents to commercialize new molecules extracted from bacteria. 

These versatile ingredients, with their antioxidant, filtering, coloring and other properties, can be used in the design of cosmetics, nutraceuticals and animal feed, among others.

Bacfarm is responding to growing demand from European and global markets for raw materials from alternative, sustainable sources. "We are very honored to have been selected by the Shiseido group as part of its Open Innovation program, fibona. Having the opportunity to present our solution in front of a panel of industry experts has really taken us to the next level, says Giulia Guadalupi, CEO and co-founder of Bacfarm. Having the opportunity to prototype our solution for the Gallinée brand will not only bring visibility to our project, but will also help us share all our research with a wider audience. The Gallinée brand has inspired us from day one, so working with Dr Marie Drago will be a unique opportunity."

"This program is a great opportunity to create the beauty products of tomorrow. There's a lot going on in beauty and science, and the race for the best sustainable suncare products is spearheading it. Partnering with other founders and the next generation of innovators is what Gallinée is all about."comments Marie Drago, founder and Creative Director of Gallinée.

Open Innovation fibona is a program initiated by Shiseido's Global Innovation Center (GIC) in 2019. It is coordinated by the European Innovation Center (EIC), based in France's Cosmetic Valley in Ormes (45). The EMEA edition follows on from the program's success in Asia, with a focus on accelerating innovation strategy and sustainability. 

Licorice pomace to inhibit inflammation

Licorice

Active Concepts presents AC ExoCalm, the latest innovation in its range of natural bio-authentic exosomes, designed to inhibit inflammation and promote overall skin health. AC ExoCalm reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines to relieve irritated skin. 

Active Concepts harnesses the potential of licorice pomace, characterized by glycyrrhetinic acid, for its well-known antioxidant, softening and antimicrobial activities. The company has teamed up with a renowned licorice producer in Calabria, where the microclimate of the Sibari plain and the nutrient-rich clay soils create a favorable environment for this root to flourish, to recover the pomace, the solid residue left when licorice root is extracted.

In 2023, the company launched its BioAuthentic Exosomes, all-natural vesicles functionally identical to exosomes, extracted from natural sources and targeting specific benefits. By encapsulating actives held together by proteins for better stabilization, these natural delivery systems guarantee enhanced activity of personal care benefits, according to the company.

Inflammation of the skin is a common problem for many people, leading to red patches, redness and loss of self-confidence. BioAuthentic Exosomal aims to deliver inflammatory benefits by making active ingredients more bioavailable.

Photo : gate74 / Pixabay

Global Bioenergies abandons cosmetics plant project

Global Bioenergies

Global Bioenergies produces a biobased isobutene offering an alternative to petroleum-derived isobutene. The company announces that it has been unable to finance its 2,500-ton plant dedicated to the cosmetics market, in a general context described by the company as highly unfavorable to the financing of industrial firsts. 

Global Bioenergies now wishes to focus its activities primarily on the production of Sustainable Aviation Fuel (SAF), with a model of industrial partnerships.

"Despite all our efforts over the last few months, and in the conviction that we have presented the most mature case possible, we have come to the realization that we are unable to finance our plant project. Like all industrial firsts, this project necessarily involves risks at various levels. The prospect of a significant return on investment linked to the cosmetics market should have helped convince private investors to commit to the project, but we have to admit that this is not enough under current political, economic and financial conditions. Today, infrastructure investors are limited to less risky industrial replica projects.1 and projects more directly focused on energy markets", says Samuel Dubruque, Chief Financial Officer of Global Bioenergies.

"Global Bioenergies regrets that this project has not been carried out, and draws the necessary conclusions: the Company will not be carrying out its own plant project in the short or medium term, and will focus all its efforts on a partnership model. The intrinsic value of the process developed by Global Bioenergies is not diminished by the non-realization of this first industrial project designed to meet the needs of the niche cosmetics market. Our main ambition remains to produce much larger volumes of SAF, in order to reduce the carbon footprint of the aviation sector and combat global warming, now an absolute priority. To achieve this, a technology partnership is the best way forward.explains Marc Delcourt, the company's co-founder and CEO.

The technology developed by Global Bioenergies to produce isobutene from natural resources is one of the solutions certified by ASTM, a global standards organization. According to the company, the market for sustainable aviation fuel is now in the start-up phase, and will really accelerate in 2030, when the European mandate increases to 6 % (i.e. around 3 million tons/year) and US production reaches the "Grand Challenge" target of 3 billion gallons per year (i.e. 9 million tons/year).2.

The French biotech company, which aims to contribute to the achievement of these objectives on both sides of the Atlantic, maintains its intention to serve niche markets, particularly cosmetics.

1- Successfully scaling up cleantech in France (website-files.com) - Cleantech for France

2- Sustainable Aviation Fuel Market Outlook - June 2024, SkyNRG

Six lightweight, recyclable and refillable cylindrical glass bottles

Phoenix-collection_Stoelzle

Stoelzle Parfumerie & Cosmétique is behind the Phoenix collection, a line of glass perfume bottles that meets market expectations for sustainable packaging, offering an environmentally-friendly alternative to traditional perfume bottles.

The Phoenix collection combines aesthetic lines with environmental responsibility. It offers brands a consistent range of designs for all bottle sizes. One of its assets is its reduced weight. The glass is lightened, reducing its environmental impact and CO2 emissions. It is nonetheless sturdy, with enhanced practicality.

The classic cylindrical shape of Phoenix bottles adapts to the various fragrance ranges already available on the market, to which it is possible to add a small nomad bottle and a large refill bottle.

The 10 ml, 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml bottles feature an SNI15 neck, making them fully refillable and offering consumers a sustainable way to extend product life. The larger 150 and 200 ml bottles, fitted with GCMI 24-410 necks, offer greater flexibility. They can be used as refills for smaller formats, or for other products such as body care and lotions.

The entire Phoenix collection is designed for easy recycling, with screw rings for quick and easy separation of components during disposal.

Replace microplastics with biodegradable alternatives

Replace microplastics with biodegradable alternatives - Calyxia

Founded in 2015 by a group of scientists from Harvard University (USA), ESPCI Paris PSL (France) and Cambridge University (UK), Paris-based Calyxia designs and manufactures biodegradable microparticles and microcapsules. Positioned in the field of advanced and eco-responsible chemistry, the company combines pioneering technologies in chemistry and emulsion science to develop new solutions. The startup recently raised $35 million in a Series B financing round.

Used to functionalize chemical ingredients critical to the performance of cosmetics, cleaning products and agricultural inputs, traditional microcapsules are based on non-biodegradable microplastics that can accumulate in the environment. Calyxia is developing eco-designed, biodegradable microcapsules to replace them. With its technology, the company is also able to improve the performance and durability of organic polymers, composites, adhesives, inks and paints.

Calyxia has recently installed and started up its first plant in 2023, and has established commercial partnerships for large-scale industrial applications. Thanks to this new round of financing and the support of the France 2030 program, Calyxia plans to expand its commercial presence and industrial operations by setting up its new headquarters and a second production site in the Paris region by the first quarter of 2025. This will increase the company's production capacity to 3,000 tonnes per year.

"Our customers are looking to reduce the environmental impact of their products, but this often comes up against the imperatives of performance and profitability, which hinders the widespread adoption of biodegradable solutions.said Jamie Walters, CEO and co-founder of Calyxia. This investment will accelerate the deployment of our products on a large scale, enabling our industrial customers to combat microplastic pollution while improving the performance and profitability of their products. We are delighted to partner with renowned investment funds who share our commitment to deploying sustainable technologies and transforming industries. Together, we are ready to tackle some of the most important environmental and industrial challenges of our time."

Calyxia benefits from a favorable context, with the European Commission passing a law in October 2023 banning the intentional addition of microplastics in Europe, with similar regulations worldwide set to follow.

The September 2024 financing round was led by Lombard Odier Investment Managers, via its Plastic Circularity fund, and Bpifrance, via its Large Ventures fund, bringing cumulative financing since the company's inception to $70 million. 

Prad, EcoVadis Platinum

Prad

An independent French company specializing in the decoration of recyclable glass and aluminum containers, Prad's customers include prestigious brands such as Cartier, Coach, Diptyque and Jimmy Choo.

Reductions over the last five years of 50 % in water and waste consumption, 40 % in VOC emissions and 20 % in energy consumption have, in particular, enabled the SME, founded 50 years ago near Valence (26), to position itself among the top 1 % companies worldwide assessed by EcoVadis.

site-industries-cosmetiques An elegant badge featuring "EcoVadis Platinum, Top 1%, Sustainability Rating, Sep 2024" in a circular design with gray, green and white colors.

EcoVadis, "the world's largest CSR policy assessment organization".The award also recognized Prad's actions in implementing its diversity, equity and inclusion policies. Among other things, the independent company focuses on raising awareness and preventing harassment and violence against women.

On the strength of this recognition, Prad is stepping up its commitment to CSR and has set itself the target of a dry factory by 2030. The Drôme-based SME has also carried out its first carbon audit and is committed to its transition.

High-end decoration on glass and aluminum

The company - which participates in the UN Global Compact program - relies on its teams and new equipment to offer brands ecodesign right from the laboratory phase, integrating virtuous production processes. Prad also plays an advisory role in the management of production waste and promotes systematic recyclability.

Prad masters the technologies of liquid metallization, lacquering, laser finishing, screen printing, pad printing and hot stamping. Used individually or in combination, these technologies enable a wide range of renderings, nuances, color and/or material effects, and extreme line precision.

Photo S. Chapuis pour Prad

An application for visualizing the results of aesthetic treatments

site-industries-cosmetiques Split-screen image of a woman's face on a tablet, showing a digital aesthetic simulation application. The left side represents her natural appearance, while the right side visualizes the improvements. The French text indicates "before" and "after" the simulation.

Using advanced deep learning and computer vision, the new aesthetic simulator makes AI available to aesthetic clinics of all sizes.

Developed by Perfect Corp, a global Beauty & Fashion Tech specialist in augmented reality (AR) and artificial intelligence (AI), the Skincare Pro Aesthetic Simulator solution aims to improve communication between beauty professionals and their customers by providing a sophisticated visual representation prior to the implementation of non-surgical aesthetic treatments.

Designed specifically for dermatologists, estheticians and beauty professionals, Skincare Pro Aesthetic Simulator seamlessly integrates AI-based image analysis and models of deep Learning to accurately simulate and visualize 27 types of non-surgical facial procedures on six areas of the face.

Building confidence in personalized treatments

Perfect Corp. points out that a recent PwC "Voice of the Consumer" survey shows that 77 % of global consumers prefer clear communication to establish a relationship of trust with a brand. The ethetique Skincare Pro Aesthetic simulator meets this need.

Unique image recognition algorithms and advanced Deep Learning models enable the aesthetic simulator to accurately perceive and interpret users' images. The application uses a computer graphics engine to provide highly accurate visual simulations of potential non-surgical facial aesthetic treatments. Users can instantly and immersively preview changes to their own face.

This interactive tool enables parameters to be adjusted in real time based on discussions with customers, giving practitioners the means to optimize pre-treatment communication, reduce uncertainty and build lasting trust with their customers.

Smooth CRM integration

Skincare Pro Aesthetic Simulator is integrated with a robust cloud-based CRM platform that simplifies customer management, facial simulation reports and before-and-after comparisons. 

Skincare Pro Aesthetic Simulator offers flexible subscriptions for iOS devices: iPads and iPhones. Users can deploy aesthetic simulation licenses according to their specific needs, with the ability to scale usage across multiple devices.

" Beauty is intrinsically personal, said Alice Chang, founder and CEO of Perfect Corp. Our mission is to enable everyone to realize their unique beauty through technology. By combining our expertise in "Beautiful AI" with advanced technological features, we are driving a digital transformation in the beauty industry. The Skincare Pro aesthetic simulator is a perfect example of this innovation, as it enables beauty professionals to offer highly personalized treatments and visually demonstrate the transformative power of their services."

Innovative ribbons

SATAB - inkless printing - embossing

Since 1905, Satab, an independent family-owned company, has been creating, weaving, braiding and knitting ribbons, braids, straps, cords... Specializing in narrow textiles, the company presented two printing techniques at the Luxe Pack trade show - held from September 30 to October 2, 2024 in Monaco: inkless printing and 3D printing.

site-industries-cosmetiques A strip of fabric features rows of small, round, colorful beads arranged in a green-to-blue gradient, reminiscent of the design of a toy car, creating a textured surface.

The Haute-Laure-based company unveiled its latest innovation at the show: 3D printing on narrow textiles. This makes it possible to create volume prints, up to a maximum height of 50 mm, on rigid or elastic ribbons.

Thanks to opaque or transparent resins and an almost unlimited color palette, Satab promises unprecedented design freedom. The 600,000 colors available, plus the Pantone range in matte and gloss finishes, make it possible to create unprecedented effects. With the ability to 3D print on a variety of materials and ribbon widths, this technology offers the possibility of creating unique colored volumetric patterns, and opens up a whole new world of possibilities for packaging, perfume caps, spirits bottles and jewelry cases. 

With a view to protecting the environment, Satab has also added two new inkless printing processes to its printing expertise. Embossing, which consists of hot stamping, causes embossing and creates tone-on-tone designs on ribbons; color is replaced by relief.

site-industries-cosmetiques Three fabric straps are on display: a black one with a discreet design, a red one with the inscription "Designed in Tencel® by SATAB" and a beige one with the partially visible text "Brouillon auto". They rest on a plain, light-colored surface.

Laser marking uses a beam of light to produce a durable mark on the textile surface; the color is "tattooed" onto the ribbon. These two printing processes require no water or ink, and enable ribbons to be personalized without impacting their ecological footprint.

For several years now, Satab has been developing an ever-expanding range of ribbons made from eco-responsible materials. This collection includes linen ribbons certified Masters of Linen, guaranteeing the traceability of premium linen grown in Europe, as well as ribbons in Tencel FSC, ecological and biodegradable fibers obtained from wood pulp, Gots cotton ribbons, paper yarns and GRS-certified fibers. The range's attractiveness is further enhanced by its inkless printing option.

Inkless printing processes represent the transition to packaging with a lower impact on the environment.

Berlin Packaging: a multi-faceted, innovative offering

Berlin Packaging - Luxe-Refill

Berlin Packaging, a group specializing in the supply of glass, plastic and metal packaging and closures, presented its latest innovations for the beauty sector at the Luxe Pack trade show held in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024. The company also announced the rebranding of its subsidiary Premi Industries at the event.

The Luxe Refill collection, with its sleek design and replaceable PP inner cup, and the Loose Powder accessories collection were among the products on show.

site-industries-cosmetiques Three containers of skincare products from the "pockii" collection are on display, complemented by Berlin Packaging. A blue bottle, a beige bottle and a red jar rest on and next to colored pedestals on a neutral background, creating an elegant beauty banner.

The Pockii collection, appreciated for its rounded, wraparound design, has been enriched with three new references: 50 ml and 100 ml glass bottles and the 50 ml Pockii Refill jar. With its rounded profile, Pockii offers an original, modern aesthetic that makes it easily recognizable. 

The decoration proposed for the entire Pockii line by the designers at Studio One Eleven is characterized by a matte finish and tone-on-tone accessories, capable of offering a look with strong visual impact. The rounded-bottom design, common to all references in the collection, adds a distinctive touch that appeals in particular to the youngest and most design-conscious consumers, according to the brand.

Last but not least, Heko's sophisticated design for refillable fragrances stands out among the company's new products. Heko joins the Infusion Refill and Euphoria Refill fragrance collections, designed for a constantly evolving sector.

The bottles in the Heko collection, available in 50, 30 and 15 ml sizes, have a modern, elegant and minimalist design, with clean, square lines that give them a versatility that can be combined with capsules of different materials and designs.

Thanks to an optimized use of glass, Heko bottles are lighter than traditional bottles of the same capacity. "The sophisticated design, combined with refillable functionality, makes Heko a perfect solution for brands wishing to combine aesthetics and sustainability in perfumery, positioning themselves in an increasingly demanding and environmentally friendly market. "says Berlin Packaging.

A single packaging solution for beauty sector customers

With the acquisition, in 2021, of Premi Industries - a specialist in beauty packaging - Berlin Packaging has officially entered the beauty market. To further underline its membership of the Berlin Packaging Group, the Italian company is adopting the new Berlin Packaging trade name and logo.

This milestone follows the company's new EMEA organization, divided into three regions: Northern Europe, Southern Europe and the Mediterranean.

Technature: WoW Impact, B-Corp label and EcoVadis Platinum for a sustainable future

site-industries-cosmetiques A person stands against a neutral background, wearing a face mask and holding a small white flower close to his chest, as if captured in a Brouillon automotive sketch. On the right, the Platinum EcoVadis sustainability rating and B Corporation certified company logos highlight the scene.

Since its creation, Technature has anchored in its DNA strong values around economic, social, environmental, digital responsibility and small everyday gestures. To reinforce and formalize this commitment, in 2023 the company launched "WoW Impact", an initiative that marks its ambition in terms of corporate social responsibility (CSR).

 " WoW Impact is not just an initiative, but an affirmation of who we are and our vision for the future. It confirms our commitment to taking into account the interconnectedness of all these elements in our day-to-day business. By formalizing our commitment with WoW Impact, we position ourselves as a company that recognizes its essential role in building a sustainable future. WoW Impact embodies our desire to have a positive impact on the world, and represents a new stage in our journey as a committed company. "says Pierre Morvan, President of Technature.

The B-Corp label: a commitment to a responsible future

In the same spirit, Technature recently received the B-Corp label, a prestigious distinction that recognizes companies that combine economic success with a positive contribution to society. This label, issued by the B Lab organization, imposes rigorous standards in terms of governance, social responsibility, environmental impact, transparency and performance. With this certification, Technature joins a worldwide movement promoting a fairer, more regenerative economy, fully integrating these values into its global strategy.

EcoVadis Platinum: a guarantee of exemplary sustainability

Continuing its commitment, Technature has also been awarded the Platinum Medal by EcoVadis, a specialist in CSR performance assessment. With a score of 84/100, the company ranks among the top 1 % companies worldwide in terms of sustainability. " This award crowns our continuous improvement approach in the fields of the environment, social responsibility, ethics and responsible purchasing, marking a rapid progression from Silver in 2023 to Platinum in 2024, without even passing through Gold! "comments Julie Ségura, Technature's CSR Manager.

Innovation for the environment: Blossom Mask, the new Leaf mask

To embody our commitment to sustainability in our products, we're launching the Blossom Mask, a luxurious fabric mask designed in collaboration with Austrian company Naturepad, which specializes in natural materials. Made from lyocell, a natural, eco-friendly 100 % fabric, this mask offers an immersive experience, combining naturalness and effectiveness. The serum, formulated with high-performance active ingredients from Mibelle Biochemistry, combines the benefits of alpine active ingredients with anti-aging, moisturizing and antioxidant properties. The Blossom Mask reflects our values of sustainable innovation and respect for the environment.

site-industries-cosmetiques A hand gently removes a fabric mask infused with visible plant particles. The blurred background highlights "natpad", with the slogan "Nature meets skin". Proudly displaying its EcoVadis Platinum status, it redefines nature's touch in skincare.

Technature: committed to a better future

With WoW Impact, the B-Corp label, the EcoVadis Platinum medal and products like the Blossom Mask, Technature is committed to creating a positive impact for a sustainable future. Through these initiatives, we are asserting our determination to transform our sector while inspiring other companies to follow the same path. As Pierre Morvan explains, " We firmly believe that by combining innovation, responsibility and sustainability, we can build a better world. "

Technature's commitments

B-Corp score 

The Blossom mask

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