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Yves Rocher deploys the Green Impact Index to evaluate its products

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site-industries-cosmetiques A jar of Yves Rocher Hydra Végétal gel-cream with a light green lid is labelled "Hydratation Non-Stop 48H" for normal to combination skin. The Green Impact Index gives it a "C" rating, allowing products to be assessed on a color scale from A to E.

Since September 19, 2024, Yves Rocher's website has indicated that some 30 flagship products have been assessed according to the Green Impact Index. All new products will soon be included, to reach a total of some fifty products assessed by January 2025. Eventually, the brand hopes to extend this initiative even further.

The Green Impact Index reinforces the brand's commitment to the eco-design of its product range, by highlighting products with A and B ratings, and identifying those that still need to be optimized, with a view to continuous improvement.

A tool for transparency

Yves Rocher points out that the French, increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of their purchases, are looking for precise, reliable information on manufacturers' commitments. However, according to Ademe, 68 %* of them still find it difficult to distinguish what is truly responsible and sustainable, despite the ever-growing range of products on offer.

By including the Green Impact Index on its website, the brand aims to enable its customers to make more informed choices. "With this new rating method, consumers will now be able to quickly assess the impact of the products they consume, and steer towards those that are in line with their ecological and ethical values."the company says.

A valuation methodology overseen by independent experts

Yves Rocher is one of 22 organizations from different sectors and sizes that make up the Green Impact Index Consortium, with the ambition of making the Green Impact Index the reference tool for displaying the environmental and societal performance of products.

Some fifty criteria are evaluated over the product's entire life cycle. The product's impact is materialized by an intuitive rating from A to E, enabling consumers to quickly identify its performance on aspects such as eco-design, production conditions, packaging recyclability and the brand's commitments. In addition, a detailed assessment for each criterion - transport, packaging, manufacturing, formulation and social issues - is available on the brand's website.

"Yves Rocher's mission is to invent the responsible cosmetics of tomorrow. This means making beauty and skincare products that are more respectful of our environment more widely available and accessible. To achieve this, it is essential to provide consumers with the tools they need to understand the environmental and social impact of their choices. The Green Impact Index score makes it possible to quickly identify these impacts and make choices accordingly!"says Alexandra Ferré, Impact & CSR Director for the Yves Rocher brand.

*Greenflex - Ademe responsible consumption barometer 2023

Pierre Fabre Laboratories set up new logistics platform in Muret

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The editorial staff
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Laboratoires Pierre Fabre Muret

To mark the 50th anniversary of its logistics site in Muret, France, Pierre Fabre Laboratories is confirming its presence in the Haute-Garonne region with a project to build an international logistics platform. The project was officially announced during a visit to the site by André Mandement, President of the Muretain urban community and Mayor of Muret, and an official delegation received by Eric Ducournau, CEO of Laboratoires Pierre Fabre.

The logistics center opened in Muret in 1974 - the first for Laboratoires Pierre, which has since become a global player in the fields of pharmaceuticals and dermocosmetics - is set to expand.

Pierre Fabre Laboratories have announced a €70 million investment to build and equip a state-of-the-art logistics platform. The project is currently undergoing consultation with local stakeholders and administrative review. Work is due to start in 2026, with commissioning scheduled for early 2028.

"This strategic project reflects our determination to capitalize on the skills and know-how of our employees based in Muret, and on the support we have always received from the local community. This new logistics platform will be an essential lever for our international development. It will enable us to respond with greater agility and efficiency to our customers' needs, while reducing the carbon impact of our supply chain.said Eric Ducournau.

Locally, Pierre Fabre Laboratories currently employ some 300 people, spread over two sites with complementary activities. The historic site, located in the Joffrery business park, delivers dermocosmetic products to customers in France. The second, opened in 2017 on the route de Seysses, handles the storage of products from the dermocosmetics factories in Soual (Tarn) and Avène (Hérault), and their international shipment. In all, more than seven out of every 10 products distributed by Pierre Fabre Laboratories worldwide pass through Muret.

The new logistics platform will be built in the Bonnets area of the future Clément-Ader business park. On a 20-hectare plot, a 73,000 m² building will house all employees currently working at the two existing sites that are to be closed down. 

The building - built on a site promoting eco-responsibility and certified according to Breeam, an international standard guaranteeing the environmental performance of buildings and their construction - will be divided into three zones: storage of products from factories, preparation of orders for France, preparation of shipments for international markets. 

The future site will be responsible for delivering dermocosmetic and pharmaceutical products to customers in the south of France, and for shipping dermocosmetic products to international subsidiaries and distributors. Northern France will be covered by a second logistics site in Ussel (Corrèze), while a third platform, located near Gien in the Loiret region, will handle international shipments of pharmaceutical products.

With a strong portfolio of international brands and medical franchises, including Pierre Fabre Innovative Oncology, Pierre Fabre Medical Dermatology, Pierre Fabre Pharmaceutical Care, Eau Thermale Avène, Ducray, A-Derma, Klorane, René Furterer, Darrow, Même Cosmetics, Naturactive, Elgydium, Inava and Arthrodont, Laboratoires Pierre Fabre (10,000 employees worldwide) achieved sales of €2.83 billion in 2023, including €70 % internationally in 120 countries, with an annual R&D budget of almost €200 million, of which around €50% is dedicated to targeted oncology therapies and €40% to skin care and therapies.

Visual : 3D image of the future Pierre Fabre Laboratories' logistics platform in Muret.

Lumi Coat, a UV filter solution for glass bottles

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Stoelzle Glass Group - Lumi Coat - UV filter

Stoelzle Perfumery & Cosmetics has teamed up with Nexdot to present Lumi Coat, a UV filter solution designed to offer superior protection for glass perfumery bottles while maintaining total optical clarity. 

The colors and fragrances of the juices are preserved: the products are protected from harmful UV rays by allowing visible light to pass through, ensuring that the glass bottles remain optically clear and transparent. 

No need for traditional UV additives such as Avobenzone. Cleaner, longer-lasting formulations are now possible. 

Lumi Coat meets the growing demand for "Clean Beauty" by reducing the need for stabilizing molecules such as UV absorbers, colorants and preservatives. An improvement of 10.5 % in the unique score for anti-UV fragrance ingredients is announced.

"Environmentally friendly and safe, our Lumi Coat solution enhances product durability while providing consistent, precise UV protection."says Stoelzle Parfumerie & Cosmétique.

Flexible integration with flasks

Applicable to any shape of glass bottle and compatible with other decorating techniques, Lumi Coat integrates with different designs, offering brands protection and great flexibility.

Stoelzle Glass Group is committed to innovation and environmental responsibility. Lumi Coat is a testament to this commitment, offering brands a solution that improves both product performance and sustainability, encouraging the evolution towards greener beauty practices.

Nexdot, the company behind the process, was founded in 2010 by Maurice Guillou (former DGA at Spie batignolles) and Benoit Dubertret (research director at CNRS) to develop industrial applications in France based on the results of Dubertret's fundamental research into quantum dots, or quantum boxes. In 14 years, Nexdot, whose laboratory and pilot lines are based in the Paris region, in Romainville (93), has filed over 40 patent families, and explored several fields of application for these nano-crystals.

Fedrigoni reinvents the presentation of its paper range to stimulate creativity

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Fedrigoni_Colour Dimensions

Italian papermaker Fedrigoni has created Colour Dimensions, a new tool for presenting its product range, into five aesthetic categories, its entire portfolio of premium colored papers.

Previewed at Luxe Pack, held in Monaco on September 30, October 1 and 2, 2024, Colour Dimensions brings together, for the first time, all Fedrigoni's premium colored papers in a creative presentation medium. 

The special feature of this guide is its CMF (Colour, Material, Finish), widely used by designers. 

The paper samples are divided into five booklets based on color, material and finish. Smooth Colour features 54 papers in bright, luminous hues; Reflective Shimmer brings together 33 glamorous colors and more sophisticated shades, with pearlescent finishes and metallic tones; Circular Colour's 39 references are papers made from recycled fibers in line with the principles of the circular economy; Textured Colour features 52 natural shades with a strong tactile impact, reminiscent of the colors of the earth; Full Blacks is a collection dedicated to shades of black, with 15 different variations. 

The Compass, a guide designed to help navigate the color system and use the CMF approach when choosing paper, with useful information and creative ideas, completes the five booklets that make up the collection.

"Colour Dimensions brings a totally innovative and revolutionary approach to the world of packaging and creativity in the luxury market, says Céline Bertuzzi, marketing director of Fedrigoni Special Papers. At Fedrigoni, we're convinced that elevating creativity doesn't just mean providing innovative, high-quality materials, but above all new approaches and new points of view on the world of design and imagination. We therefore invite the world of creativity and design to discover this new way of approaching the world of colors, materials and finishes."

Overcycling

Another new product presented at Luxe Pack is an extension of Fedrigoni's Re-Play range, which transforms waste into high-end labels. 

Tinteretto, the papermaker's flagship paper range, is now available as a Re-Play label, incorporating 15 % of glassine, which is difficult to recycle due to the 2% of silicone it contains.

Glassine is the siliconized backing removed and discarded during the application phase of self-adhesive labels. With Fedrigoni, it goes from being a waste product to a component of the new label. Recovered from end-users, it returns to the production process for the manufacture of new premium labels.

High-throughput testing: robotics for safe cosmetics

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The editorial staff
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Amica Clariant

"When we season our meals with salt or perfume ourselves, we maintain a subtle balance between excess and deficiency. The same balance is also important for preservatives in cosmetics, which should only be added within the lowest possible limits".explains Clariant.

Amica, a robot from Clariant's German innovation laboratories, is a new tool for determining these limits. It tests preservatives quickly and efficiently. 

In preservative chemistry, the boundary between too much and too little is called the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC). This is the lowest concentration at which a preservative inhibits the growth of germs such as bacteria and fungi.

Amica - for Automatized Minimum Inhibitory Concentration Assay (Automated Minimum Inhibitory Concentration assay) - also known as "ami" in Latin - offers an alternative to manual MIC testing. " We chose it because having this robot is really like having a helpful new friend around. A very fast friend, at that.says Petra Schaal, Head of Preservation at Clariant's Clariant Innovation Center (CIC) in Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

At CIC, the robot works non-stop. With one sliding arm, Amica mounts pipette tips, aspirates liquids and fills them into microplates. With the other, it transfers the plates to integrated incubators and reading tools.

"The Amica is essentially a state-of-the-art high-throughput system that enables us to test the efficacy of antimicrobial compounds very rapidly, explains Petra Schaal. Different concentrations of compounds are mixed with germs and growth medium. The samples are then incubated and regularly monitored for a certain number of days.

Amica measures a series of parameters to determine the rate of germ multiplication in plate wells. In each series, serial dilutions of 32 antimicrobials can be tested against 8 different organisms. The well containing the lowest level of an antimicrobial to inhibit growth defines the MIC of that compound.

Using Amica for "safer" security

The Clariant robot enables CMI tests to be carried out much faster than with conventional methods. In a recent university study, a similar device also achieved an accuracy of 100 %. This is a difficult level for even the most conscientious laboratory technician to achieve.

"We use Amica to accelerate our collaboration with Clariant's personal care customers, says Petra Schaal. Each formulation has its own preservation needs. And finding the right balance quickly can be crucial to being first to market with a new product."

To help cosmetics formulators, Clariant provides an online database that can be consulted using a preservative search tool. The products featured include one of Clariant's specialties: multifunctional boosters. These synergistic compounds reinforce the effects of traditional preservatives, which can considerably reduce their use.

"Boosters like our Velsan SC make cosmetics less dependent on conventional preservatives and their potential drawbacks, explains Petra Schaal. They offer safer safety, so to speak, while being largely bio-based and providing all sorts of other benefits. Amica is a great tool for testing the effectiveness of these innovations."

Robotic precision, human creativity

In Amica's incubators, a tiny drop of multifunctional booster can be used alongside an alcohol or organic acid to combat typical enemies such as Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. 

The result of this kinetic analysis is a series of graphs and figures. In the case of Velsan SC, they show that the booster can more than double the effects of alcohols and considerably extend those of organic acids. Combined with natural plant extracts, it can even obviate the need for traditional preservatives.

This doesn't mean that the lab assistants are idle. Preparing high-throughput cycles requires planning and care. And in the end, human experience, intuition and creativity are still needed to guide the robot's work and give it meaning.

"Amica is more of a synergistic stimulant, notes Petra Schaal. It helps us to work faster for our customers, but also to test new ideas more quickly, which boosts our capacity for innovation."

A PLM solution dedicated to cosmetics, skincare and fragrances 

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The editorial staff
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Centric Software

California-based Centric Software enhances its PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) for cosmetics manufacturers, brands and distributors, and is expanding its team of sector experts.

Since entering the cosmetics and personal care sector during the Covid-19 pandemic, Centric Software has been constantly improving its Centric PLM, Centric Visual Boards and Centric Market Intelligence solutions, which enable cosmetics companies and multi-category distributors to reduce time-to-market, optimize costs and improve compliance, traceability and sustainability.

Thanks to a strong market response, Centric has almost doubled its customer list in the cosmetics and personal care sector over the past year. At the same time, the company also doubled its team of industry experts. "These specialists bring product development best practices and reinforce Centric Software's extensive experience in developing and implementing enterprise technologies for consumer goods, adding in-depth industry knowledge."the company says.

Innovations include Centric AI Formula Match: users specify product parameters and rely on Centric PLM's Formula Match functionality, powered by artificial intelligence (AI), to find suitable ingredients and existing formulas that match product specifications, providing product development scientists with suggestions for a formulation starting point.

In addition, Centric's innovation in regulatory management strengthens compliance workflows. Via Centric's "compliance cockpit", users indicate which product characteristics are to be prioritized, such as the countries in which the product will be sold. This is then used to define standards for ingredients and the levels of ingredients permitted in each country. Results can be filtered according to desired parameters, such as "vegan" or "cruelty-free" formulations. In addition, data can be extracted from anywhere in Centric PLM, or entered via the global certification body FoodChain ID, which links users to 220 global food and chemical certification libraries and databases. 

"One of the improvements we've achieved is that we now have just one repository. The information is there, it's accurate to 100 % and visible to everyone at the same time. Centric helps us a lot, because we can be sure of having up-to-date, accurate costs in real time.explains Heike Linnemann, General Manager of the Kiko brand.

"PLM's unique data repository and its ability to increase efficiency, reduce the risk of error, and ensure that we meet safety and environmental standards will ultimately enable us to improve product quality and reduce time-to-market."says Giulio Pistolato, CIO at Pettenon Cosmetics.

The AI-powered Centric Market Intelligence solution scans competitor websites, extracting product attributes and prices to create benchmarks and gain an overview of the market. These reports provide insight into trends, specific bestsellers and promotional calendars.

Centric's Visual Boards enable assortment planners, buyers and merchandisers to collaborate visually in a dynamic, operational digital space rather than on flipcharts, eliminating the need to be physically present while continuing to work together in real time. Visual Boards are easy to use thanks to a beautiful user interface developed in partnership with leading luxury brands, streamlining the creative process and maintaining consistency throughout product development.

"We are delighted to share our solutions with players in the cosmetics and personal care sector. Features such as Formula Match and partnerships with companies such as FoodChain ID illustrate the advances and improvements we regularly make to our product offerings. We are customer-focused. By integrating the right people into our teams, we give ourselves the means to continue serving the companies that put their trust in Centric Software."says Ron Watson, VP Products and Head of Security at Centric Software.

Pure Trade: a festive box for Viktor&Rolf's Flowerbomb fragrance

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PURE TRADE - VIKTOR&ROLF - Fflowerbomb

Viktor&Rolf's Flowerbomb fragrance now has its own presentation box for the festive season. The octagonal construction of this display box is inspired by the faceted bottle. Its half-moon-shaped opening reveals the provocative fragrance range in a theatrical way.

On opening, the inner platform lifts up, thanks to hinges and a 100 % paper mechanism, creating a showcase for products.

The exterior design, inspired by a "frozen garden" and continuous thanks to precise registering, was obtained by screen-printing and embossing, with an Iriodin pearlescent varnish finish. It features Flowerbomb's emblematic colors, enhanced by the festive touch of silver flakes obtained by hot stamping.

A printed ribbon, echoed in embossing, provides a visual effect, as does the central signature seal, made from embossed cardboard with selective matte and gloss varnish, for a wax effect. 

Finally, lyocell ribbons complete the set, which Pure Trade describes as "glamorous".

Elcimaï delivers a production unit to Adopt Parfums

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The editorial staff
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Adopt Parfums - Elcimai

As a perfume designer, Adopt Parfums develops a range of around one hundred quality fragrances exclusively imagined and manufactured in France. In search of a new production site, the company acquired, in January 2023, a former factory of the pharmaceutical and cosmetics group Pierre Fabre, in Château-Renard, near Montargis (45).

Elcimaï, a specialist in building and process engineering for the cosmetics industry, carried out the audit and feasibility study prior to purchasing the site, which had ceased trading a year earlier. The company was then commissioned by the manufacturer to rethink and redevelop the site, comprising almost 9,000 m² of buildings, both to comply with the group's ambitious environmental commitments and to maintain the level of quality demanded by perfume production.

The project was launched in February 2023, on a tight schedule and under production conditions. The first phase was handed over in May 2023, followed by a second building and process phase in February 2024, and the final process phase was completed last August. 

"We had reached the end of a cycle that risked slowing down our development in perfume production. We therefore entrusted Elcimaï with an ambitious mission, particularly in terms of timing and processes. Our objective was to set up an industrial tool to support the brand's strong growth in France and abroad, says David Gaudicheau, General Manager of Adopt Parfums. The firm's skills and technical input, supported by Adopt Parfums' in-house teams, were undeniable, both in terms of meeting deadlines and respecting costs. The project went off without a hitch, and we're delighted with our collaboration. We are therefore delighted with this collaboration.

"Drawing on their experience in the cosmetics industry, Elcimaï's teams oversaw all operations, including the ICPE file review, with technical support provided for the part that is usually the responsibility of the operator.explains Olivier Fourn, Business Unit Manager at Elcimaï Ingénierie. Adopt Parfums is delighted to have a fully operational, environmentally-friendly unit."

Adopt Parfums plans to produce 50 million bottles a year from 2028 and create 120 jobs by 2026.

Paris Packaging Week: a show reinvented

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The editorial staff
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Paris Packaging Week - Easyfairs

For its next edition, on January 28 and 29, 2025, Paris Packaging Week - now established in Hall 1, the largest space at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles - will offer a series of new features for packaging players in the luxury, aerosol, beauty and beverage sectors. 

More than 750 packaging suppliers are expected to attend this year's event. They will be showcasing their products to an international community of over 12,000 packaging designers, engineers and buyers, creating what the event organizers see as the industry's premier rendezvous.

New products and immersive experiences

Alongside the four long-standing Paris Packaging Week shows - ADF (for aerosol solutions), PCD (for the cosmetics and fragrance sectors), PLD (for premium and luxury beverages) and Packaging Première (for luxury products, including fashion, watches, jewelry and fine groceries) - new areas will be specifically delineated.

The Discovery Zone will highlight start-ups and technologies such as artificial intelligence, eco-responsible materials, reuse and intelligent packaging.

In response to the growing demands of brands, the PCD will feature a brand-new Full-Service Zone, designed to meet formulation, contract packaging and R&D needs. This area will offer tailor-made, agile solutions to help companies optimize their production chain and accelerate the time-to-market of new products.

A unique design festival

Another new feature: for the first time, the world's most prestigious packaging design competition will hold its Pentawards Festival at the heart of Paris Packaging Week. This unique event will bring together international design agencies, present a gallery of creations and feature conferences led by the world's leading designers. An exceptional opportunity for visitors to explore the latest inspirations in packaging design.

These new initiatives complement the already rich offering of Paris Packaging Week, which includes a rich program of conferences, relaxation and coworking spaces, as well as champagne, cocktail and beer bars. Galleries dedicated to the winners of the Innovation Awards will also continue to showcase the sector's best creations.

"Paris Packaging Week is constantly reinventing itself to offer an ever more enriching experience to its community of packaging creators. 2025 marks a real renaissance with a new hall, which has given us the opportunity to respond to different wishes from our visitors around the design and subcontracting part and, of course, around startups and innovation. The new exhibitors, networking and co-working spaces will also create new opportunities to meet and discover. Above all, we want to provide a vision of the future of packaging for each and every one of our visitors, and for each and every brand that places its trust in our show.explains Josh Brooks, co-director of Paris Packaging Week, organized by Easyfairs.

A tube that delivers product in customized shapes

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The editorial staff
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QP ShapeUp range Stick & Tube

Quadpack's ShapeUp family has been extended with a single-material tube that dispenses cream in a fun and visually original way, using customized shapes.

With ShapeUp Stick, Quadpack imagined in 2023 an original stick capable of revealing a formula by creating a particular - customizable - shape to offer a novel consumer experience and brand identification.

The international packaging manufacturer and supplier extends this principle to tubes. Its latest packaging innovation: the ShapeUp tube. A sun, a flower, a logo or any geometric shape: the formula comes out of the tube in a customized format.

site-industries-cosmetiques A white, unopened Brouillon car cosmetics tube, with a decorative seal, lies on its side against a blue background. The cap rests next to it, while a hexagonal object lingers in the background.

" Consumers are in control, Quadpack precision: They squeeze the tube to reveal the special shape of the formula, which they apply by dabbing or running their finger along the side. Ideal for hand creams, sun products, styling wax or even blush, it's a fun new ritual to share on social networks!"

The tube is the latest member of Quadpack's ShapeUp family. A brainchild of the company's Creative hub, it offers the possibility of brand personalization without having to invest in the creation of bespoke packaging. 

Tube operation is simple. A customizable design plate is recessed into the tube head. When the formula is dispensed, it is extruded through the holes in the plate. Sun- and flower-shaped plates are already available, but Quadpack offers to produce a customized design to accompany the storytelling of interested brands.

The 30 mm-diameter tube is available in various lengths for capacities ranging from 20 to 80 ml. Single-material packaging, the ShapeUp tube is made entirely of polyethylene (PE) with up to 50 % of PCR. 

A five-layer version is also available with an EVOH barrier to protect the formula. The multi-layer tube can incorporate up to 40 % of PE PCR. Tests carried out with refill showed easy, leak-free filling thanks to a film inside the cap, also made of PE, stresses the manufacturer.

Brands can further personalize the tube with gloss, matte or soft-touch finishes and by playing with colors. "Vivid coloring of the design plate will draw attention to the pattern when the formula is released, transforming its use into a multisensory experience."the company says.

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