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LMR Naturals celebrates its 40th anniversary and pays tribute to its founder

Monique Rémy - LMR Naturals - IFF

IFF celebrated the 40th anniversary of LMR Naturals, and the legacy of its founder Monique Remy, at the Simppar trade show held in Grasse on May 28 and 29, 2024. 

"For four decades, LMR has pioneered the creation of natural fragrance ingredients that harness the beauty and quality of nature.comments Bertrand de Préville, Managing Director of LMR. We have always remained true to the values of sustainability, respect and innovation instilled by our founder, Monique Remy. For example, we achieved the fragrance industry's first-ever third-party certification of a natural supply chain in 2014, after launching the first collection of recycled fragrance ingredients in 2013. These are just two of many significant achievements. Today, as demand for natural ingredients skyrockets, LMR Naturals is well positioned to serve a market driven by a consumer desire for quality and differentiation, as well as a commitment to sustainable choices."

Heritage and international innovation 

As part of IFF's Scent business unit, LMR Naturals - acquired by IFF in 2000 - produces a wide range of ingredients for the perfumery, personal care and home care markets. With access to IFF's international sourcing and production network, LMR Naturals' activities have grown, while remaining firmly committed to sustainability and respect for stakeholders throughout its value chain. 

"Even at a time when the industry was moving away from pure natural products, LMR defended the power and beauty of nature.continues Bertrand de Préville. With Monique's determination, ambition and expertise, IFF has created a unique company, which we are proud to present "at home" in Grasse (...). We look forward to further discussions with our partners about the unique properties of our ingredients, and the comprehensive support and creativity we can offer to customers seeking to develop their next innovations. Monique remains an inspiration to us all (...)."

A book was published to mark the occasion: L'art du naturel (Nez Editions, 2024).

Global Bioenergies: completion of preliminary design phase for new plant

Global Bioenergies (c) YZ

Global Bioenergies is building a plant to produce its Isonaturane 12 and 16 products, biobased alternatives to petroleum-based isododecane and isohexadecane.

The new plant, recently scaled down to 2,500 tonnes of isobutene derivatives per year (from the previously announced 10,000 t/year), will focus on the most profitable markets: make-up and prestige skincare products.

Global Bioenergies is pleased to announce that it has successfully completed the preliminary design phase of this project for a plant dedicated to the cosmetics market, scheduled to come on stream in mid-2027.

"Two engineering firms were commissioned, the first to handle the biological side of the project, and the second the part dedicated to green chemistry. Their respective expertise gives us a very good vision of the plant's plans. In the short term, we're looking ahead to the next stage, the detailed design phase.says Roland Desvignes, Industrial Director of Global Bioenergies.

At the same time, process validation tests under conditions mimicking those of the future plant, carried out with fermentation specialist ARD at Global Bioenergies' Pomacle-Bazancourt (51) facility, have been successfully completed, according to Global Bioenergies.

"The success of these tests confirms the robustness of our process. They consolidate our business plan and the strong profitability we are projecting for the plant".explains Frédéric Ollivier, Technical Director of Global Bioenergies.

In addition to cosmetics, the plant will also serve to kick-start the market for sustainable aviation fuels (SAF).

Photo: (c) YZ

AI and augmented reality for beauty applications

Perfect Corp.

Perfect Corp. provider of Beauty and Fashion Tech technologies in artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR), and developer of "Beautiful AI" solutions, presented new innovations at the Viva Tech trade show held in Paris from May 22 to 25, 2024.

A set of AI assistants

PerfectGPT, is an offer that includes two AI assistants.

BeautyGPT, a proprietary-trained AI makeup assistant, uses advanced Large Language Model (LLM) technology. Its key features include natural conversation, virtual make-up trials, make-up recommendations based on facial attributes, foundation suggestions tailored to skin tone, interactive make-up tutorials and personalized product/SKU recommendations.

SkincareGPT, meanwhile, has been designed specifically for skincare, promising to deliver a personalized, interactive consumer experience through the power of AI. This assistant offers a range of tools such as a natural conversation to address specific skin concerns, new high-definition skin scan technology and AI skin simulations enabling users to visualize expected results on their own face through AR. 

Both solutions will be officially launched in the coming months.

Virtual make-up trials thanks to AI

The principle: extract the look, in terms of make-up, from any reference image and transfer it to the user's facial photo using augmented reality technology. "Our pioneering AI algorithm accurately detects makeup shades, textures, patterns and styles and transcribes them into a virtual look that users can instantly try on in AR. What's more, the AI solution determines the colors of the looks and matches them with real cosmetics products to recommend specific brand products in a personalized way," explains Perfect Corp.

Multi-zone skin analysis in HD

HD Skin Analysis, Perfect Corp.'s AI-based skin analysis solution, offers high-definition (HD) skin scans to reveal visual details, with an even more powerful update. A multi-zone analysis now offers the ability to zoom in on specific areas of the skin. According to Perfect Corp, this new version enables brands to offer even more personalized product recommendations, tailored to the specific skin characteristics of their customers.

Virtual fitting of several jewels in real time

Perfect Corp.'s high-end virtual jewelry and watch fittings are based on hyper-realistic renderings, with the ability to offer multiple pieces at the same time, and stable, precise tracking thanks to AgileHand technology. Stacking features enable users to try on several products simultaneously. Physically Based Rendering (PBR) enables realistic reflections of light and materials; with virtual watch trials that even display the time. 

Expanscience: new plant inaugurated in Peru  

Expanscience Peru

On Tuesday June 4, Expanscience inaugurated its second plant for processing plant-based raw materials in Peru. This new site will enable the company to reinforce its "responsible plant sourcing" approach.

Laboratoires Expanscience has been present in South America for over 20 years. The company, which specializes in dermocosmetics, rheumatology, dermatology and the marketing of active cosmetics, has strengthened its presence in Peru, notably with the acquisition of Deshidratados Tropicales in 2016.

Based in Lima for over 30 years, Deshidratados Tropicales processes plant raw materials for pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses. Under the management of Sébastien Debrock since its takeover, the company employs 55 people and maintains partnerships with over 500 local producers.

Deshidratados Tropicales has reached a new milestone with the inauguration of its second production site in the country, dedicated primarily to the production of avocado oil.

As a raw material, avocado is used in seven cosmetic active ingredients produced by Expanscience, as well as in Piasclédine300, a drug for the treatment of osteoarthritis, the company's flagship product, and in several dermocosmetic products from the Mustela brand.

Virtuous production

In Peru, Expanscience is currently carrying out a life cycle assessment (LCA) of avocado cultivation in partnership with the Catholic University of Lima, with a view to continuous improvement and impact reduction.

Thanks to an optimized and modernized production flow, the new Peruvian plant has already enabled a significant reduction in the gas consumption required for avocado drying, while improving working conditions for employees, according to Expanscience.

Deshidratados Tropicales promotes the purchase of avocados from sorting deviations, ensuring a source of income for small producers while combating waste. The whole avocado is recycled via upcycling.

One of Expanscience's priorities is "responsible plant sourcing", an approach initiated over 15 years ago, for its supply chains in France and abroad. The company relies on the best practices established by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), of which it has been a member since 2011, as well as compliance with international agreements on access to natural resources and human rights.

"We are proud to inaugurate this plant, which demonstrates our determination to master our value chain and contribute to more sustainable development, both economically and environmentally", comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, Chairman of Expanscience.

" We cultivate close relationships and win-win partnerships with local producers. This commitment enables us to reduce our impact while stimulating local economic development, says Sébastien Debrock, General Manager of Deshidratados Tropicales.

Photo: ©APU Productions

Lipoid Kosmetik launches new products based on Herbasol plant water

Herbasol_Plant-Water

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, introduces Herbasol Plant Water, a versatile range of plant waters optimized for cosmetic use. 

According to Lipoid Kosmetik, this product line embodies the power of plant ingredients (100 natural %, high proportion of plant components, short Inci, Lactobacillus ferment used for natural preservation), and combines this with a transparent, odorless appearance that is easy to incorporate into a variety of cosmetic formulations. 

Herbasol Plant Water products meet the demands of natural, clean and pure beauty concepts, as well as a feeling of freshness and hydration. Fermentation metabolites also enable fermented and postbiotic skin care claims. 

Produced by steam distillation, a process that extracts water-soluble compounds from plant matter to produce a condensed liquid containing its pure essence, plant waters are associated with deep hydration, pure, beneficial ingredients and the idea of naturally radiant, revitalized skin. These hydrolats evoke natural, refreshing and nourishing images. 

Cartier perfume bases benefit from TNT Group know-how 

site-industries-cosmetiques A gold perfume bottle and matching round container are set against a ribbed gold base. The bottle, which resembles a Brouillon auto in its elegance, has a cylindrical shape with a smooth finish, while the container prominently displays the brand name "Cartier" in the center of its lid.

Cartier has imagined a new ritual for the body with its olfactory-neutral Bases à parfumer, which can be adapted to the fragrances that each person adds. The range includes an oil (Huile pure) and a cream (Crème pure), as well as alcohol-free concentrated fragrances.

For its original ritual, Cartier entrusted TNT Group with the design and manufacture of the cap adorning the Huile pure bottle.

Manufactured in Europe, this cap is composed of a gold-galvanized zamak outer part assembled with a PP insert by means of bouterollage. According to the manufacturer, the semi-automated and manual production and finishing process is particularly meticulous, offering a silky touch, a pleasant opening and a color perfectly consistent with that of all the line's packaging. 

In addition to bringing Cartier's creation to life, TNT Group, which specializes in the design, development and manufacture of high-quality metal parts, was able to implement precision engineering to produce a made-in-Europe product that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

Photo: © Cartier

Aircos and Pascual invest and confirm their ambitions in make-up 

Aircos

Aircos, expert in made-in-France cosmetic powders, and Pascual, specialized in hot-cast and liquid make-up forms, two companies in the Anjac Health & Beauty group, have inaugurated a joint research and innovation laboratory, based just outside Paris, in Clichy (92). The two partners are also investing in production sites at Ferrières-en-Brie (liquid and hot-cast make-up forms) and Romorantin and Ardon, south of Orléans (powders).

A new joint R&I laboratory in Paris

With average annual growth of almost 30 % since 2022, the Anjac Health & Beauty group's make-up expertise is a promising business that employs 300 people, including 25 dedicated to research and innovation. 

Geographically close to the Group's scientific department, where skincare R&D experts work - thus facilitating knowledge sharing - the joint Research & Innovation laboratory benefits from the arrival of an industrial microbiologist, and the setting up of a New Product Development (NPD) department to ensure optimal customer service in a make-up market driven by dynamic product launches.

"These choices represent a major step forward for our make-up business. They embody our ambition of "White Glove service", i.e. offering a tailor-made, high value-added service for our customers, quality of execution and ever more innovative products. This is key in a highly dynamic market, where almost 50% of references are renewed every year. These synergies also aim to facilitate the customer experience through a single point of contact for all support and operational functions".says Frédéric Lagacherie, CEO of Aircos and Pascual. 

New investments to boost production capacity

Other investments have also been made, with the conversion of a second powder production site at Ardon, a few minutes from Orléans, as well as the reinforcement of production capacities at the Romorantin site (powders) for Aircos, and at the Pascual site at Ferrières-en-Brie (liquids and hot-cast). The aim of these investments is to triple free-flowing powder production by 2025.

"These investments will enable us to consolidate our position as a benchmark industrial partner in make-up technologies, with expertise and a strong innovation plan in France and internationally. Nearly 120 people have been recruited for 2023, the vast majority of them new positions, and we intend to keep up this momentum to continue offering our customers future international bestsellers. It's worth noting that we already generate a third of our sales from American brands, with the remainder split between Europe and Asia.concludes Frédéric Lagacherie.

Photo from Aircos website.

Make-up: nature, innovation and sensoriality

GOTHA COSMETICS _ bubble gum family

At MakeUp in Paris, held May 29-30, 2024, Gotha Cosmetics presented its latest collection inspired by the "deep" essence of nature.

According to the Italian company, Gotha's make-up solutions embody the purity and tranquility of nature: "By integrating cutting-edge technology with nature's finest elements, the products combine earthy tones that reflect the richness of deep forests with vibrant hues inspired by gardens in bloom, offering a unique and inspiring experience." An approach that underlines the company's commitment to sustainability.

Gotha Cosmetics' collection includes a skin balm (Lush-ious skin balm) with a texture (Cream To Dream-Y-OU) that is soft to the touch and evanescent once applied, "blending perfectly into the skin like a silky veil of light." This formula is composed of 99.7 % natural ingredients.

Bubble Gum Family, for its part, is based on a hybrid formula, both in terms of texture and performance, presented as " as light as powder, but as creamy as cream. " Bubble Gum Family products are water-resistant and modular.

A mascara called Youtube-Ing is also part of the collection unveiled at MakeUp in Paris. Gotha Cosmetics emphasizes its performance, pointing out that the mascara's innovative formula offers excellent volumizing and waterproofing properties, while removing easily with lukewarm water. "Its formula will envelop every lash, for a gorgeous panoramic effect, without clumps or flakes."

Ode to joy lipstick completes the collection. Made with 90 % of natural ingredients, the lipstick's creamy, light and enveloping formula doesn't compromise on performance, according to Gotha Cosmetics. It coats lips with powerful, intensely pigmented color from the very first application, for an even result. Lips appear plumped, with a long-lasting satin finish that stays intense all day long.

Photo: Bubble Gum Family.

A tablet to clean your skin

site-industries-cosmetiques Three round white tablets are arranged on a plain teal background, resembling the neat layout of a Brouillon car.

SkinSitu Caps won the Bronze award at the Sensory Bar during the In-Cosmetics 2024 trade show in Paris. Its special feature: a rethought skin cleansing ritual.

Designed to offer a "purifying and instantaneous" beauty experience, according to Technature, the company behind the new product, SkinSitu Caps takes the form of a compact anhydrous tablet that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it comes into contact with water.

An innovative and respectful formula

In addition to its shape, SkinSitu Caps features a formula that combines gentle cleansing agents for clean, revitalized skin, a prebiotic to maintain the natural balance of the skin's microbiota, and a moisturizing active ingredient to ensure optimal skin hydration.

Practicality and efficiency

Designed to meet the needs of travellers and city dwellers in a hurry, SkinSitu Caps is small, practical and easy to use. "maximum efficiency, with no compromise between performance, convenience and pleasure".says Technature.

According to its designers, the award received at In-Cosmetics 2024 highlights not only the product's innovation, but also its unique sensory impact and proven effectiveness.

Scientists, industrialists and political representatives meet to discuss essential oils

Essential oils

On June 26 and 27, 2024, Avignon will play host to some 200 essential oil experts at the Aromadays congress organized by Cosmed, a trade association representing French cosmetics companies with 1,030 member companies, and the HE Consortium, which brings together six companies supplying over 90 % of the French essential oil market.

"This edition takes place at a pivotal moment. The five-year derogation, allowing complex natural substances, including EOs, to be excluded from the MOCS classification rule, gives stakeholders precious but limited time to plan the research needed to present a robust new dossier to the authorities."reminds Cosmed.

For two days, the city of Avignon will become the stage for scientific and political exchanges in the field of essential oils, with the presence of European representatives. Jérémy Pinte, from DG Grow - European Commission, will shed light on the defense of essential oils during discussions on CLP. Benoît Biteau, MEP, will share the views of European parliamentarians. At the heart of the debate will also be the notion of essential use, pivotal in the revision of the Reach regulation.

On the scientific side, the first results of pioneering studies on the endocrine safety of essential oils will be previewed by Patrice Rat, Professor of Toxicology at Paris Descartes University.

A new, scientifically validated approach to aromatherapy will also be presented, exploring the benefits of essential oils as non-drug treatments from a holistic perspective.

Alongside regulatory and scientific issues, the essential oils sector is looking to improve its environmental footprint. A project initiated by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition, aimed at reducing emissions and sequestering carbon, is currently being evaluated by Cihef (Comité interprofessionnel des huiles essentielles françaises) under the name of the low-carbon label.

The conference program is available here.

Photo: Monika / Pixabay

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