Building on the success of its Protopia collection introduced last year, Faber-Castell Cosmetics, manufacturer of cosmetic pencils, is taking another step forward in responsible packaging with its "Inspire" concept.
Presented at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2024, this concept showcases the Jumbo refillable pencil - a "chubby" version of its predecessor with significantly improved mechanics and cartridge. Developed with sustainability in mind and still in the process of industrialization, the "Inspire" product range promises to reduce waste and increase product value.
The Jumbo refillable pencil has a 6 mm-diameter lead and is available in two sleek, vegan textures for eyes and lips.
The eyeshadow pencil offers ultra-soft, glide-on application. The lipstick pencil, meanwhile, is of natural origin, offering a semi-gloss finish and great coverage with fewer ingredients for maximum impact.
Faber-Castell Cosmetics will be present at Makeup in Paris from May 29 to 30, 2024.
The organizers of the Beauty Leaders Summit report that the French cosmetics market is expected to generate sales of 2.81 billion $ by 2024, with a forecast annual growth rate of 2.07 % (CAGR 2024-2028). This booming industry reflects French consumers' interest in cosmetics and beauty products.
This market is dominated by luxury products, which account for around 60 % of revenues in the French cosmetics market, due to the importance attached by French consumers to quality, craftsmanship and prestige in their choice of beauty products.
Another finding: global trends indicate that French consumers are increasingly interested in natural and organic cosmetics. Their attachment to sustainability and environmentally-friendly practices is reflected in this shift, which goes hand in hand with a broader cultural evolution in favor of responsible consumption.
In this innovative and evolving environment, the Beauty Leaders Summit becomes an essential forum for industry leaders to meet and learn from each other. A meeting place for decision-makers in the personal care and skin care industry, it is intended to be a crossroads for ideas and points of view.
In particular, participants will be able to obtain information on the specific features of the French beauty sector. Beyond local perspectives, it's a global, international view of developments in the beauty sector - with its opportunities and challenges - that will be at the heart of the summit.
The event will be held in Paris on November 20 and 21, 2024, at the Paris Marriott Champs-Élysées.
Photo taken from the Beauty Leaders Summit website.
All around our planet, climate change is leading us to face ever more harsh weather events, ever more extreme climates. Croda Beauty is launching Phytessence™ Osmanthus, a botanical extract dedicated to geo-skincare, intelligent routines adapted to specific geographical and climatic conditions.
It is important to Croda Beauty that they seek for innovations that respond to a global market issue, a fundamental beauty trend or a promising emerging concept. In 2023, their botanical team highlighted the rise of the geo-skincare trendwhich consists of personal care products adapted to local climatic and environmental conditions. Sudden seasonal changes, extreme climates, degraded conditions, and air pollution, as well as the specific characteristics of individual skins, are all key factors in these intelligent, ultra-adapted routines.
But it was clear that there were no ingredients specifically designed to meet this trend. That was all the Croda Beauty team needed, and Phytessence™ Osmanthus was launched shortly afterwards.
The ultimate flower for geo-skincare
While still in its early stages, the concept of geo-skincare is gaining attention, but there is still a limited availability of clearly defined products for such routines on the market. Phytessence™ Osmanthus has emerged as a pivotal element in skincare aimed at preventing discomfort and reducing signs of ageing.
Its approach is based on the following observations: skincare often addresses UV-induced photochemical reactions, but the effects of infrared radiation (IR) are sometimes overlooked. IR induces molecular vibrations and rotations that raise skin temperature. Just fifteen to twenty minutes of sun exposure can elevate skin temperature by up to 42°C, leading to a notable increase in wrinkles and skin ageing, as well as thickening of the skin. Additionally, it can disrupt skin microflora, exacerbate skin conditions, and heighten the risk of heat stroke due to elevated temperatures.
Phytessence™ Osmanthus focuses on protecting and soothing the skin against the harmful effects of heat and sunrays on the skin, to prevent discomfort and skin ageing. These properties are particularly in tune with the image of prosperity and longevity conveyed by Osmanthus in Asian cultures, where it is highly regarded.
Proven protective and soothing properties with no compromise on naturalness
Quantified in verbacoside, a well-known molecule for its antioxidant and soothing properties, this innovative extract offers natural protection against the damage of sunrays and heat. Phytessence™ Osmanthus boots the skin's defence mechanisms by increasing the release of HSP70 (Heat Shock Proteins), as proven by in-vitro testing. These "stress proteins" are triggered by denatured proteins in cells, caused by heat or environmental aggressors. They aid other proteins in maintaining or restoring their natural structure, promoting the survival and longevity of skin cells.
Several tests have been carried out to reinforce Phytessence Osmanthus' Geo-skincare positioning as the shielding plant for everyday life:
10% decrease of skin redness and immediate soothing effect after exposure to UV light (in-vivo)
Protection against free radicals (-27% ROS) (in-vivo)
Decreased release of pro-inflammatory mediators (-52% PGE2 ) (in-vivo)
In crafting Phytessence™ Osmanthus, Croda's botanical teams opted for Eco-Sound™ technology, prioritizing both high active content and eco-responsibility.
Comparing the quantification of actenosides across osmanthus flower extraction methods, Eco-Sound™ technology outperformed others, delivering superior results despite operating at room temperature and in a shorter timeframe. Tests revealed that this innovative ultrasound method emits 16 times less CO2 per kilo of osmanthus extract compared to decoction and digestion methods. Additionally, Eco-Sound™ was estimated to use only 9 Wh/kg of extracts.
An outstanding experience, for a beautiful world
The luxurious yellow-orange hue of the osmanthus flowers embodies the warmth and positivity of the sun with finesse, while the shrub's robustness symbolises resilience and longevity - a perfect blend of emotive components for a geo-skincare ingredient!
Aside from its historical use in Asian gastronomy and traditional medicine, osmanthus also enjoys a prominent reputation in perfumery. Its fruity base note is highly appreciated in numerous perfumes, justifying its name derived from the Greek words "anthos" (flower) and "osmê" (fragrance). This sets the stage for innovate scented skincare products or care fragrances that delight the senses and deliver skin benefits.
Groupe Rocher has chosen to support its transition to generative artificial intelligence (AI) with a SaaS (Software as a Service) which helps employees in large companies to make better use of software including ChatGPT.
In 2024, more than 600 French employees of the Rocher group will be coached throughout the year in the adoption and proper use of generative AI. Groupe Rocher has chosen the young company Mendo to train its employees. Founded in 2021, Mendo offers a tool that connects to ChatGPT or Copilot, generative AI solutions, and enables each employee to self-train at their own pace and in a fun way.
Some 400 initial licenses have already been deployed in priority business areas such as marketing, IT, HR and communications. In a two-pronged approach, a further 250 licenses will be allocated to volunteer employees who have demonstrated, via a competition, their mastery of and respect for the rules essential to the use of AI.
"Generative AI uses natural language, making it easy for our employees to adopt it quickly. It improves their efficiency by speeding up routine tasks, freeing up time for higher value-added tasks. This freed-up time can be devoted to collective initiatives, such as problem-solving, reflection and alignment, creating value for the teams where AI is deployed. However, using AI requires an understanding of its "grammar" (prompting), recognition of its limitations and the development of a critical mindset in the face of results. Mendo offers acculturation through an effective, fun and rewarding approach, based on long-term employee autonomy".says Siegfried de Preville, leader of the Health & Safety pillar at Groupe Rocher.
"We are delighted with this partnership, which will enable us to demonstrate what we have long believed: AI is not the enemy of corporate employment. On the contrary, our tool not only fights the digital divide, but also makes employees more efficient."adds Quentin Amaudry, founder of Mendo.
Mendo is a SaaS solution that helps employees of large companies to learn how to use software more effectively. Initially developed for Excel, the solution is now available for ChatGPT through the MendoGPT tool. The startup offers both French and English versions of its solution.
Mendo reminds us that while, according to the IMF, artificial intelligence could affect 60 % of jobs in advanced economies in the coming months, and nearly eight out of 10 managers are enthusiastic about the idea of integrating AI into the professional sphere, the central issue of its integration into the company remains the human and its support.
Claunel Massies, President of Réseau Mesure, and Christophe Masson, Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley, met at the in-Cosmetics Global Paris trade show on April 16 to sign an agreement enabling the two associations to implement joint or cross-fertilization initiatives on behalf of their members.
Cosmetic Valley brings together, coordinates and supports companies, research centers, universities and schools in the French perfume and cosmetics industry. Réseau Mesure, a network of 215 companies in the fields of measurement, control, calibration and instrumentation, supports the development of its members by offering shared, value-added solutions.
The two organizations have already identified a number of common themes, and several initiatives have already been launched. Members of both organizations can benefit from training courses offered by the two clusters, and take part in meetings and workshops based on a jointly-defined program and topics.
In 2025, several members of the Réseau Mesure and Cosmetic Valley will be taking part in the Comet (COsmetic MEasurement & Testing) congress, the event dedicated to Tests and Measurements in the cosmetics sector organized by Cosmetic Valley and CY Cergy Paris Université, as well as the Cosmetic 360 trade show.
The aim is also to work more closely with other regions, notably the Paris region and the Centre Val de Loire. The next project will be dedicated to the Beauty Hub, a program that organizes actions to develop innovation and technology transfer in the industrial world of cosmetics manufacturing.
Several technologies offered by Réseau Mesure members address product quality and production issues in the cosmetics industry, such as color processing, leak detection, physico-chemical analysis and 3D measurement.
This synergy will benefit companies in terms of both economic and sustainability issues, with associations such as Réseau Mesure and Cosmetic Valley playing an information and awareness-raising role.
Réseau Mesure and Cosmetic Valley implement concrete actions for the benefit of their members. As major players in economic development, in partnership with local authorities, they seek to promote growth and innovation, and contribute to the international influence of French industry.
Vytrus Biotech, a Spanish company specializing in active ingredients derived from plant biotechnology for the cosmetics industry, launched its latest research into plant exosomes for plant biotechnology-based skin and hair care at in-cosmetics Global Paris, bringing the concept of "exosomal peptides" to the cosmetics industry.
Exosomes are bounded by a lipid membrane and are naturally secreted by cells. Exosomes contain DNA, RNA, lipids, proteins, cytokines, transcription factor receptors, heat shock proteins, enzymes, antioxidants and other bioactive compounds.
Vytrus considers exosomes to be "natural biological communicators", carrying packets of relevant biological information. In the cosmetics industry, exosomes provide various beneficial properties: anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, immunomodulatory properties, wound healing, hydration, synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (collagen, elastin, etc.), skin protection, modulation of the microbiota, skin regeneration and homeostasis, among others.
Recently, the cosmetics industry has seen an explosion around synthetic/biomimetic exosomes (synthetically produced vesicles that have similar functions to exosomes, but a very different structure). However, Vytrus has just unveiled structurally intact natural plant exosomes with all their rich contents, transferred from the plant to the human body via cosmetics. These plant exosomes have the same structure as mammalian exosomes and can therefore penetrate human cells and transmit molecular information very efficiently.
Exosomes produced from plant cell cultures
The biotech company has demonstrated that it can produce and characterize true plant exosomes from plant cell cultures using its biotechnology platforms. Its plant cell cultures feature a high concentration of exosomes compared to traditional plant sources, reaching levels of billions of exosomes/ml. Vytrus' technology platforms make it possible to customize and guide plant cells to produce different types of exosomes for skin and hair care.
Cell cultures from Curcuma longa developed by Vytrus Biotech contain a high concentration of exosomes, on the order of a billion. These exosomes have very interesting applications in improving skin hydration and regeneration, as well as increasing hair density and delaying hair loss.
Vytrus has also developed cell cultures of Centella asiatica with a concentration of exosomes in the billion range. These natural exosomes have the capacity to encapsulate and protect interesting compounds such as growth factors, proteins and peptides. These exosomes from Centella are capable of activating skin gene expression profiles linked to ageing, the skin barrier and hydration in keratinocytes (increased expression of type I collagen, inhibition of elastase, etc.). A cocktail of properties that lead to the reversal of cellular senescence.
Exosomal peptides
Vytrus also turned its attention to the contents of its plant exosomes. After extensive research, the biotech company discovered an astonishing diversity of plant peptides in the contents of its natural plant exosomes, which Vytrus has dubbed "exosomal peptides" for the first time in the cosmetics field. This wide diversity of different peptides identified in Vytrus exosomes constitutes, according to the company, an enormous cocktail of natural plant peptides with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle activities, among others.
Vytrus says these exosome-based active ingredients are highly effective on skin and hair, and have great potential for cosmetics innovation through sustainable plant biotechnology that is changing consumer demand for skin and hair care.
The wood experts at international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack have created an inspiring collection of finishes to match the latest beauty trends and help brands express their identity.
Pushing back the boundaries of decoration, their know-how reveals the many faces of wood, from aspects that highlight its natural origins to bold, elegant finishes that hide them.
With Mermaid Core, the aim is to plunge into the mysteries of the deep with aquatic, pearly hues. According to Quadpack, "Aligned with the blue trend in beauty products inspired by the marine world, Mermaid Core gives wood a fairytale feel that enchants and lifts the spirits."
Paradise in Dystopia invites fantasy and reality to meet in a fusion of light, shadow and illusion. According to Quadpack, these color finishes defend a protopia-like vision, where life gets a little better every day, brutal and optimistic at the same time.
Wood takes on an understated look with Quiet Luxury. Maple is enriched with finishes to create a look of refined elegance, but without the natural aesthetics of wood. Matte or glossy, black or white, it's wood, but it doesn't show.
Opulent Luxury: wood is dressed in glittery shades, metallic and extravagant finishes that attract attention - an ideal solution for brands targeting young, confident consumers who like to enjoy life to the full, according to Quadpack.
For those who appreciate the timeless beauty of nature, wood can be treated to bring out the natural grain, for a sleek, elegant look. This is what Wood & Only offers, with a different pattern on each piece.
Basic Primaries offers geometric blocks dyed in primary colors, "perfect for brands that love whimsy, boldness and vivacity, with universal appeal to the young - and the not-so-young."says Quadpack.
Danish Pastels: a pastel color palette is applied to a retro yet modern design to express pure Scandinavian sophistication. Pastel wood accessories add a soft, delicate touch to the clear glass.
"Together, these products reveal how certified wood is as versatile as it is responsible, capable of evoking emotions and engaging the senses, while respecting the natural world."Quadpack emphasizes.
All finishes are carried out in the Quadpack Wood factory in Spain, on different types of wood. Quadpack experts can even imitate the look of exotic species like wenge from common species like ash, but without the complexities of certification, sourcing, cost and carbon footprint. The wood used comes from certified, sustainably managed forests. The material is safe and non-toxic, even after conversion and finishing*.
Quadpack Wood runs on renewable energy, while a biomass power plant converts production waste into fuel for temperature control systems and wood drying kilns. Industry 4.0 further enhances the site's energy efficiency by using real-time data from state-of-the-art CNC milling machines.
*Accredited by ecotoxicity tests carried out at the ITENE Research Center, in compliance with the criteria defined in EN 13432-2001 Annex E amending OECD 208:2006.
Flavors, fragrances and ingredients giant dsm-firmenich is currently finalizing its share buyback program involving a total of 1.5 million shares.
The company announced that it had bought back 500,000 ordinary shares during the period from April 8, 2024 to April 12, 2024 inclusive, at an average price of €103.29 (for a total amount of €51.6 million).
As part of its share buyback program to cover the share plans announced on April 8, 2024, it subsequently acquired 452,835 shares during the period from April 22, 2024 to April 26, 2024 inclusive. The shares were bought back at an average price of 104.66 euros for a total amount of 47.4 million euros.
The forward transaction is expected to be finalized in May 2024, and dsm-firmenich plans to take delivery of the shares in 2025.
Phytessence Osmanthus is Croda Beauty's floral ingredient dedicated to geo-skincare. Derived from the Osmanthus flower, celebrated in Asia and popular in the perfumery sector, this ingredient is manufactured using a green, eco-designed process known as Eco-sound technology. Phytessence Osmanthus helps protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun's rays and soothes sunburn by reducing redness and the production of PGE2.
Protecting yourself from the sun
While sunlight can stimulate the body and provide a sense of well-being, excessive exposure to sunlight can have irreversible consequences for the skin. In this age of climate change, it is essential for consumers to seek optimum protection for their skin.
Phytessence Osmanthus is an extract of Osmanthus flower, Osmanthus Fragrans, in glycerine and water. An extract of natural origin at 99.4 % according to ISO16128, approved by Cosmos, quantified in verbascoside (syn. Acteoside).
Save water
Climate change also threatens the natural water cycle. According to the United Nations, two-thirds of the world's population will be living in water-stressed conditions by 2025. In addition, population growth, accelerating consumption and economic development are increasing global demand for water by 1 % per year, Croda Beauty points out. Water scarcity is not confined to developing countries. With heatwaves on every continent and declining water quality, consumers are sensitive to water quality and scarcity, seeking to understand whether the methods used to create products limit or recycle water.
When it comes to beauty, solid formats, oily serums and plant waters are now in demand.
Water is an essential ingredient in cosmetics. Historically, water has been used as a filler in products, and is cited as the first ingredient in a formula because it acts as a base.
The beauty industry is increasingly aware of the need to reduce its dependence on water. In particular, water-free products are now being offered, with their marketing motivated by the need to preserve this resource.
"Replacing water with skin-friendly alternatives derived from plants or minerals is a winning strategy to deliver superior consumer benefits."says Croda Beauty, creators of Heliami, a range of oily extracts obtained by infusion at 30°C in French organic sunflower oil with a high oleic acid content.
According to Croda Beauty, this sunflower oil with its high oleic acid content provides a more heat- and time-stable extract. Its unsaturated fatty acid composition is superior to both conventional sunflower oil and olive oil.
The entire range is certified organic by Cosmos and 100 % of natural origin according to ISO16128.
Five oily extracts have been developed in line with current market trends:
Heliami Banana Flower EC, for tropical bohemian concepts,
Heliami Cornflower EC, for a bucolic, locally sourced world,
Heliami Ginseng EC, the adaptogenic plant for Ath-Beauty
Heliami Green Tea EC, "the wellness ingredient for urban living",
Heliami Sea Fennel EC, "the extremophile ingredient that blows an ocean breeze".
The jury for "The Cosmetic Victories", the 9th edition of the international innovation and research competition organized by the Cosmetic Valley endowment fund and its partner Essec, met on April 15, 2024, in Paris.
The jury, chaired by Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley and General Secretary of LVMH, was able to evaluate three research projects for their future theoretical interest, and three industrial innovations for their practical capacity to transform the market, exploring through the candidates' presentations topics ranging from artificial intelligence to decarbonation, marine ingredients, organic components and innovative processes.
Established in 2015, The Cosmetics Victories is a competition that gives visibility to and rewards researchers, start-ups and SMEs working for the future of the perfumery-cosmetics sector. The competition attracted some 111 entries from 22 countries. Among these entries, three manufacturers and three researchers caught the eye of the jury's experts.
In the "Academic Research Prize" category, the winner was Matej Hladiš, from the Université Côte d'Azur (France), for his project "Deciphering the code of odors: a bio-inspired ia for accurate prediction of odor perception".
This innovative project is inspired by the biological mechanism by which our brain interprets olfactory percepts, to develop a bio-inspired AI capable of predicting the smell of molecules. The approach takes into account genetic information, enabling the creation of personalized scents. By opening the way to the modeling of complex mixtures, they aspire to offer future users the possibility of creating custom perfumes, while offering alternatives to raw materials in order to reduce their ecological impact.
Prateek Mahalwar from Bioweg (Germany) won in the "Industrial Prize" category. His project "revolutionizing the future of organic ingredients through the power of microbes and green chemistry" won over the jury.
MicBeads100 is a functional micropowder derived from bacterial cellulose that replaces solid microplastics such as PMMA in cosmetics and personal care products. Manufactured through the recycling of agri-food waste and the application of green chemistry, this innovative and sustainable ingredient is fully biodegradable in 60 days, giving it added value and enabling it to outperform synthetic polymers, while complying with new EU regulations on microplastics.
Participants in the competition had to aim for skincare product performance and efficacy, organic sourcing, digitalization for odor prediction, optimization of environmental impact and mastery of sustainable development.
Each of the winners received a prize of 10,000 euros and dedicated support from Cosmetic Valley.
