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Ultra-compact digital gilding equipment

Kurz_dm_smartliner

Kurz, a global specialist in thin-film technology, makes metallization accessible with its compact DM-Smartliner digital metallization unit.

"It all starts with toner or electro-ink. Then follows a simple 'decalcomania'-type process; where there's ink, there's digital gilding with perfect registration. The technology is not new, but what is new is the optical quality and speed.says Kurz.

The DM-Smartliner comes with a predefined color chart. The customer can easily choose color, gloss and shade. They can also opt for overprints on a silver base.

Kurz Brand body lotion- Packaging - Product information

The metallization unit can handle materials from 120 g/m² to 350 g/m². It can adapt to closed or open, creative or structured papers. Robust, it can handle small production runs, even one-off jobs, and can run up to 3,100 sheets/hour.

The DM-Smartliner can be used, for example, for mock-ups, cases, greeting cards, events, personalized catalog covers, and so on. It can also be used for serialization and identification solutions. 

In "plug and play" mode, this digital machine is simple and easy to use. No special training or cliché is required.

The DM-Smartliner operates in stand-alone mode. In this way, it can be used remotely to quickly manage finishing needs and requests, without slowing down a production run.

What's more, with its small footprint, the equipment fits easily into a production workshop. 

The DM-Smartliner is one of three new products to be previewed on the Kurz stand (Hall 3, Stand E71) at La Drupa, the trade fair for the printing industry, to be held in Düsseldorf, Germany, from May 28 to June 7, 2024.

Tests: Skinobs launches V2 of its platform

Skinobs V2

Skinobs unveiled the latest version of its clinical platform at in-Cosmetics Global Paris. With a new design and new features, Skinobs V2.0 aims to redefine testing expertise for users worldwide. 

With its online platform, Skinobs has been guiding experts through the "jungle" of the testing field since 2016. In 2023, the platform was used by over 6,000 industry experts based in 84 countries.

Evaluating active ingredients, ingredients or cosmetics is all the more necessary as demand for safe, effective and innovative cosmetics continues to grow. The challenges facing manufacturers, researchers and regulatory bodies are increasing all the time.

"Understanding the importance of preclinical and clinical evaluation is a major advantage in ensuring the right testing process."emphasizes Skinobs.

New design, new features

The new version of the platform makes it easy for test experts to choose the right tests, laboratories or consultants for their evaluation projects. What used to take days of research can now be accomplished in minutes. 

New features include project management tools, an integrated private messaging system, FAQs and an intuitive interface. 

"Cosmetic product evaluation is at the heart of the beauty industry and is key to the success of product development.says Anne Charpentier, CEO and founder of Skinobs. Our aim today is to function as a central hub where laboratories and cosmetics professionals converge. With Skinobs, we strive to facilitate collaboration and communication between these two essential industry entities."

According to the company, Skinobs is the leading referencing platform for preclinical testing and clinical evaluation. With its comprehensive, independent tools, Skinobs aims to offer beauty industry professionals worldwide an intuitive, free database of all skin, nail and hair testing solutions. Skinobs offers two applications on its platform: one dedicated to preclinical testing (in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro or ex-vivo), the other to clinical evaluation (in-vivo on humans) to optimize product development in terms of performance, cost, speed and innovation. 

Olibanum and neroli in perfect harmony

Olibanum_Packshot-flask-50ml_Neroli

All fragrances from the Olibanum perfume house contain Somali frankincense, extracted using a method that generates neither greenhouse gases nor pollutants.

The common thread running through the collection, unveiled or accentuated, in each Olibanum creation, frankincense is associated with a key raw material.

For its 19th creation, Olibanum has chosen to highlight neroli. Its essential oil, produced from the white, fleshy, highly fragrant flower of the Citrus aurantium sour orange tree, which blooms in early spring, comes from the province of Khémisset in Morocco. This variety has been selected for its floral, citrus, green and honey notes.

Olibanum aims to undress perfume to reveal its fundamental dimension, with pure, accessible creations. This is complemented by a responsible approach to minimizing its impact on the environment: minimalist, recycled and recyclable packaging, organic alcohol made in France, formulas developed with ethical natural products and clean synthetic molecules. What's more, Olibanum wants perfume to contribute to everyone's well-being, and uses raw materials produced by local communities.

" The arrival of the orange blossoms in April is a time of great excitement for the thousands of women who take part in the harvest every year. It's also a major logistical challenge for the grower, who must organize both harvesting and processing in the hours that follow. Every day, 1,500 pickers on each of the three farms have to be transported from their villages to the fields, the company explains.

Only the open flowers, not the buds, are harvested and carefully sorted before being transported to the factory to be transformed into a concrete using bio-sourced and biodegradable green volatile solvents. "This waxy concrete is then reworked with ethanol to obtain an absolute whose top and heart notes are preserved, revealing a natural flower effect, less green than a neroli and less animalic than an absolute. The fresh petal notes are highly refined, giving the compositions a sunny effect", says Olibanum.

Composed by Céline Perdriel, Olibanum Néroli is composed of bergamot, neroli, orange blossom, jasmine, olibanum and musks. "As delicious as it is mischievous, the sparkle of bergamot reveals the sweetest of neroli. Fresh and floral, it melts with infinite tenderness into the honeyed roundness of jasmine, enveloped in powdery musks".emphasizes Olibanum.

Geka: its PCR-PP material is a finalist in the IT Awards MakeUp in Paris 2024

Geka - PCR PP_Innovation_Set-bd

Geka, the beauty brand of Swiss company medmix, active in the manufacture of high-precision delivery devices, is behind an innovative material that is a finalist in the IT Awards MakeUp in Paris 2024.

Geka is one of ten finalists in the packaging category of the MakeUp in Paris Innovation & Trends (IT) Awards. The nomination recognizes the company's development of the very first PCR-PP (post-consumer recycled polypropylene) material suitable for primary packaging of cosmetic products.

Visitors to MakeUp in Paris will be able to discover the benefits of the PCR-PP material, as well as Geka's other beauty solutions, at stand J20, on May 29 and 30, 2024, at the Carrousel du Louvre. The material will also be presented in the show's IT area, where it will be evaluated by a jury of industry experts.

Developed in close collaboration with Geka's long-standing partner WIS-Kunststoffe, this innovative material was selected for its ability not only to match the performance of virgin materials in terms of color brilliance and durability, but also to reduce CO2 emissions by 75 % compared with traditional materials. It has been tested to several stringent international standards for the cosmetics and food production sectors, making it suitable for direct contact with formulations such as those found in bottles and sticks.

As it behaves identically to virgin material, manufacturers don't need to adapt their tooling or processing equipment.

"We are delighted that our new PCR-PP material has reached the finalist stage at this prestigious event. This nomination is not only a victory for Geka, but a victory for the future of sustainable beauty solutions worldwide.said Stefanie Gunz, Head of Global Marketing at Geka. This innovation reflects our commitment to combining top-level performance with environmental stewardship. By choosing this material, brands can proudly display their commitment to sustainability without compromising on quality or design."

Alland & Robert supports cosmetics manufacturers interested in acacia gum

Acacia gum

Natural and vegetable, harvested by hand and processed without chemical inputs, acacia gum meets today's consumer demands. It improves the nutritional profile of products offered by the food industry and provides an alternative to synthetic products for the cosmetics sector. Acacia gum is a natural 100% plant hydrocolloid.

Founded in 1884, Alland & Robert, a French 100 % family business based in Normandy, specializes in the processing of acacia gum.

The company recently launched Alland & Robert Services, making the technical expertise of its R&D teams available to food and cosmetics companies. The aim is to offer a comprehensive consultancy service to help companies design, develop and industrialize products containing acacia gum, enabling them to meet today's consumer challenges.

The methodology offered by Alland & Robert Services ranges from component analysis to optimize the product formula, to experimentation using the company's state-of-the-art equipment. Alland & Robert's teams can assist their customers with marketing, sales, industrial development and regulatory issues.

The company supports players in the agri-food and cosmetics industries in developing their formulations, studying production feasibility, facilitating industrial development, ensuring complete, optimized integration of formulas and testing their stability.

"With Alland & Robert Services, we work hand in hand with food manufacturers to create the food of tomorrow. For the cosmetics sector, we help market players to promote the sustainability and naturalness that consumers increasingly expect".says Isabelle Jaouen, R&D Manager.

Photo : Montemari / Pixabay

For efficient screening

Gericke screening machine

Gericke centrifugal sifters are used in all industries handling non-abrasive powders (abrasive products can damage sifters). 

The most frequent applications are in the food industry for raw materials such as flour, sugar, cocoa, starch, salt, milk powders, spices, flavorings, etc. However, Gericke sifters are also used in the chemical and cosmetics industries, as well as in the plastics processing sector. However, Gericke sifters are also used in the chemical and cosmetics industries, as well as in the plastics processing sector. Non-abrasive mineral products such as calcium carbonates, gypsum, plaster, filler and kaolin can also be sieved, without causing damage even at high sieving rates.

Gericke sifters can achieve throughputs of between 50 Kg/h and 80 T/h, depending on the products being processed and the sieve mesh size, which is generally between 100 µm and 2 mm.

Depending on the application and the products to be processed, different types of sieves can be used: nylon mesh, stainless steel mesh, perforated plate, wedge wire, etc.

What's more, to comply with current Atex directives, all Gericke screening machines can be offered with Category 1D indoor Atex certification, for indoor Zone 20.

Fresh collaborates with Pure Trade for its textile accessories 

Pure Trade - fresh

Fresh's latest summer collection has benefited from the textile expertise of Pure Trade, which has designed a beach tote bag in PE-laminated jute and cotton, and a beach bag and towel, both in RPET. Products that stand up to the beach and the sun.

The PE lamination on the inside of the jute and cotton tote bag ensures watertightness and long-lasting use. The blue-and-white geometric design and logo are obtained by multi-layer oil-based printing, with a soft, resistant feel. The generously-sized tubular handle makes it comfortable to carry on the shoulder.

The RPET microfiber beach towel (117 x 147 cm, 300 g/m2) features blue and white stripes and a fringed edge. It is discreetly signed with the fresh logo in black, applied by ultra-resistant transfer. Thanks to a detachable handle, it's easy to carry when rolled up.

The iconic fresh multi-purpose pouch (W13.3 x H10 x D5.7cm) is made of 100% RPET, inside and out. Its minimalist design makes it the perfect ally for promotional campaigns, with easy personalization for each one.  

According to Pure Trade, RPET "Once again, we demonstrate our ability to cover a wide range of textures, including weave, velvet, microfiber, terry cloth, jacquard and satin.

Diptyque calls on Prad to decorate its "Le Café Parisien" collection

Diptyque - Prad

Diptyque has entrusted Prad, a French specialist in custom finishing and a long-standing partner of the brand, with the decoration of its new "Le Café Parisien" collection.

On the candle glasses (classic and small models) is revealed "An illustrated and fanciful Parisdesigned by British artist Clym Evernden.

For this decor, Prad's design office adapted the "spontaneous and inspired" designs to the truncated cone shapes of the containers. The production teams then contour-printed the silkscreen to Diptyque's exacting quality standards.

The four candles resulting from this collaboration - "Café", "Biscuit", "Chantilly" and "Fruits confits" - were imagined following an encounter: that of Diptyque with Café Verlet, in Paris. 

Prad: high-end decoration on glass and aluminum

Prad is an independent French company specializing in the decoration of recyclable glass and aluminum containers. Prestigious brands such as CARTIER, Chanel, Coach and Jimmy Choo are among its customers.

Based near Valence (26), the company - which has joined the Industrie du futur 2.0 program of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region and participates in the UN Global Compact program - masters several technologies: liquid metallization, lacquering, laser finishing, screen printing, pad printing and hot stamping. Used individually or in combination, they enable a wide range of renderings, nuances, color and/or material effects, and extreme line precision.

The future of cosmetics according to Basf

Emollient Maestro Basf

Basf presented innovative solutions that accelerate the cosmetics industry's transition to sustainability at in-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024.

"Tomorrow's beauty is the expression of a holistic and responsible approach to consumption and life. Consumers want to be able to make informed decisions, and are looking for information about the origin and provenance of raw materials, as well as the environmental impact of a product, explains Gisela Pinheiro, Senior Vice President of Basf Personal Care Europe. Through innovative digital solutions, we help our customers to seize new opportunities in a fast-changing market and increase transparency for consumers."

Beyond Beauty: unveiling the future of Personal Care

Beyond beauty, Basf is committed to providing its customers with solutions to seize new opportunities in a rapidly changing personal care market, based on digital services and taking into account consumer values and priorities.

With "Beyond Beauty", the company intends to show what tomorrow's beauty will look like: consumers are looking for cosmetics that respect health and the environment, enhance their well-being, emphasize authenticity and respect the planet at the same time. Basf thus plays an active role, working hand-in-hand with its partners and customers along the entire value chain to create sustainable, high-performance solutions.

Increasing transparency of products' carbon footprint

With Care 360° - Solutions for Sustainable Life, Basf's Care Chemicals division is making sustainable development a priority. The integration of PCF (Product Carbon Footprints) in its D'lite digital services platform aims to provide CO2 transparency, by enabling manufacturers to obtain data on the greenhouse gas emissions associated with the products they buy. 

Basf, which invests in green energy, also offers certified sustainable raw materials and replaces fossil raw materials with renewable ones thanks to the Biomass Balance approach, which uses a third-party verified certification method. 

Formulating the future with biopolymers

The ingredient supplier is behind the Verdessence range of biopolymers. Five ingredients for applications ranging from make-up to hair care are available. 

According to the company, these natural biopolymers are promising rheology modifiers. However, their use represents a challenge for formulators as, to date, there is no single substitute for conventional synthetic polymers. Basf's experts have therefore developed a multi-biopolymer approach to identify the most appropriate combination for each application. To this end, they have studied various combinations of the company's range of biopolymers in aqueous systems and emulsions. The vast majority of the formulations proposed comply with the Cosmos standard for natural cosmetics.

Visualizing the potential of cosmetic active ingredients

To prove the efficacy of its cosmetic ingredients, Basf uses advanced 2D and 3D models close to real skin conditions. The company has extended its imaging expertise to reveal previously unseen modes of action. According to Basf, "Imagery" opens up new possibilities for the development of plant-based active ingredients, and surpasses traditional objectification methods. At in-Cosmetics, visitors were able to discover this expertise as part of an immersive journey, using virtual reality headsets to explore the application of imaging to specific skin needs.

Exploring the power of pearlizers and opacifiers

The visual appearance of a formulation - pearlescent, luminous or matte finish, for example - is an important purchasing factor for consumers. Using a five-step approach, Basf demonstrates the different visual aspects that can be achieved with different dispersions or combinations of waxes in surfactant systems at different concentrations. The concept focuses on the visual assessment of all formulations according to defined monadic and associative parameters, as well as on color evaluation. 

Alternatives to silicones through scientific modeling

Cosmetics manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding alternatives to silicones such as cyclosiloxanes. Instead of replacing them with other variants of synthetic silicones such as dimethicones, the switch to biodegradable alternatives offers manufacturers the opportunity to meet consumer expectations for natural, sustainable beauty products.

Basf's approach is based on its Emollient Maestro digital service, an application available on the D'lite online platform. It is based on scientific data and offers users alternatives to the synthetic standards on the market, including dimethicones. Combined with a powerful portfolio of alternatives to silicones, and complemented by extensive formulation expertise, the company helps its customers develop and improve new, more natural and sustainable cosmetic designs.ertise, the company helps its customers develop and improve new, more natural and sustainable cosmetic designs.

Image taken from https://www.personal-care.basf.com.

Charlotte Tilbury (Puig) teams up with Stoelzle to produce and decorate its perfume bottles

Charlotte Tilbury - Stoelzle - Joyphoria

Love Frequency, Magic Energy, Calm Bliss, More Sex, Cosmic Power, and Joyphoria: six fragrances for six emotions - love, energy, serenity, seduction, empowerment and happiness. Charlotte Tilbury's first fragrance collection, created in collaboration with award-winning perfumers Anne Flipo, Juliette Karagueuzoglou and Dominique Ropion, invites you on an emotional journey.

Stoelzle Glass Group crafted and decorated Charlotte Tilbury's six perfume bottles. The founder's meticulous vision is infused into every aspect of her collection. Each bottle reflects her attention to detail, from its shape and color to the symbolic numerology indicated.

Inspired by 18th-century potions, the packaging opens like a magic book, revealing the story behind each fragrance. The diamond-shaped cut-outs on each bottle echo the brand's logo, creating a consistent aesthetic.

Stoelzle Parfums Charlotte Tilbury- Packaging - Product info

Inspired by the energy of crystals, the bottles reflect the hues of precious stones with specific colors designed to evoke specific moods, Joyphoria standing out in Charlotte Tilbury's signature rose gold color, with its metallic finish, managed by Stoelzle's UV decoration process.

Despite the difficulty of the task, Stoelzle succeeded in decorating this unique set of bottles with a double UV hot stamping technique, highlighting the brand and perfume names in rose gold. Holographic hot stamping added intricate details. Only the metal version was decorated with a simple hot stamping followed by silk-screening to indicate the names.

Stoelzle's double hot stamping technique, a world first in the perfume bottle industry, has enabled the bottles to stand out from the crowd, and to meet the challenge of precisely aligning the decorations. To meet rigorous standards, both the lacquering and the hot stamping were sealed with a transparent water-based spray.

For the finishing touch, an accessory delicately placed beneath the ring enhances the bottle's design. Collaboration with suppliers led to innovative solutions ensuring precise placement, with specialized tooling developed for the Stoelzle team to correctly install the medallion. Meticulous attention to the initial hot stamping ensured perfect placement, aligning with the setting for an impeccable finish. 

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