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Derma Series: an Aptar Beauty offering for dermocosmetics brands

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site-industries-cosmetiques A row of fourteen white Brouillon skincare bottles and containers, of various sizes and shapes, each labeled in blue, arranged in a row on a plain white background. The containers are labelled "Derma series".

To meet the demands of the dynamic dermocosmetics market, Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing technologies, launches Derma Series, a range of high-performance solutions.

The dermocosmetics and aesthetic medicine markets are booming. This trend is set to continue, as more and more of the world's population suffer from skin sensitivity due to the deleterious effects of environmental conditions and lifestyles. Brands and companies are increasingly investing in skin health-related fields such as the microbiome, the exosome, or in research into longevity and connected health.

The new generation of skin care and treatments is deeply rooted in science and dermatology. Working alone or in partnership with dermatologists, plastic surgeons or laboratories, dermocosmetics brands are bringing sophisticated, increasingly premium formulas to market, requiring careful attention to packaging and distribution.

To meet market needs by adapting to specific formulas, Aptar Beauty launches Derma Series. "We quickly detected a real need for solutions that went beyond the usual requirements for beauty product packaging, says Xavier Joseph, Vice-President, Marketing and Global Innovation at Aptar Beauty. We went straight to the source and talked to our key customers and dermatologists, who shared with us their problems and how we could help them solve them. Some were product-related, others related to production capacity. We found that we were able to offer real added value thanks to the breadth of our services and our in-depth understanding of this fast-growing market."

High-performance solutions for the dermocosmetics market

Aptar Beauty's proactive research shows that dermocosmetic formulations require a high level of precision and protection to preserve and enhance product performance and the consumer experience. Design and decoration are also important for the medical "look and feel" and require differentiating packaging, particularly for premium brands.

Brands must both put the user experience at the heart of their innovations and take into account regulatory requirements. For medical devices, they are also looking for solutions that support patient adherence to treatment.

"Our market analysis confirmed that we not only offer the right product technologies for key categories, but we also offer added value in inclusive design, materials science know-how and connected solutions. As part of the AptarGroup, we are in a unique position to draw on Aptar Pharma's knowledge and experience in medical devices and pharmaceutical distribution systems. This combination of expertise, technology platforms and large-scale technical capabilities proves that Aptar Beauty has what it takes to be the unique partner for user experience in Derma."says Xavier Joseph.

Derma Series includes airless packaging and dispensing systems, cosmetic pumps, droppers, lotion pumps, sprays and aerosols to meet the specifications of the dermocosmetics market.  

- Formula protection

Airless technology offers a high level of compatibility and protection for even the most fragile cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulas. Aptar Beauty's best-selling airless products, Micro and Mezzo, are fully recyclable.1 and available in a wide range of sustainable materials, including PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled Resin). 

- Dosing accuracy

For high-precision dispensing of ultra-liquid formulas such as serums, Star Drop promises an optimized user experience thanks to adjustable drop-by-drop dosing. The PZ Twist spray pump features a twist-lock system, and offers ample finger space for easy application, ideal for sun protection formulas. For precise dispensing of sprays and mists, Tina is the perfect aerosol, offering a modern design with clean, straight lines. 

- Sustainable materials

Every Derma Series packaging is compatible with a wide range of sustainable, recyclable and recycled materials. Some solutions are single-material, like the Future lotion pump, made entirely of PE (polyethylene) and recyclable.1which also offers an e-commerce-friendly twist-lock mechanism.

- Premium trim and decor options

The Derma Series offers a wide range of customization options and premium decorations to reinforce brand identity. Like the Evolux metal cosmetic pump, whose pump system avoids any contact with metal to ensure optimum compatibility with the formula. These systems are also compatible with glass bottles.

A comprehensive offer

In addition to products, Aptar offers a range of integrated services thanks to its cross-disciplinary expertise and technical capabilities.

In synergy with Aptar Pharma, Aptar Beauty invests in research into user experience and human factor design. The Group has developed a global network of laboratories in France (InVisionLab), the United States and China, to test these designs and concepts.

Artificial intelligence and technology are used to predict compatibility between formula and pump, and to optimize pharmaceutical formulations. They are also used to explore new territories using simulation and rapid prototyping software.

With its expertise in the 3Rs (recycle, reduce and reuse), Aptar Beauty offers single-material solutions to promote recyclability, while developing models for reusable or refillable solutions. 

With over 30 years' experience supporting customers in their regulatory submissions, the company also holds ISO 13485 certification to develop medical devices and distribution solutions in line with market requirements.

Connected solutions linked to a digital health platform can be offered by the manufacturer to support patient adherence to treatment use, improving outcomes and quality of life for patients.

"Dermocosmetic products meet a real and growing need. These formulas are constantly evolving, and include ever more powerful active ingredients or little or no preservatives. As a leader in our field, we need to ensure that the packaging provides optimum protection and compatibility. Our holistic "product & service" approach enables us to accompany these brands in their launch, as a unique partner for the distribution of dermocosmetic products".concludes Xavier Joseph.

1. When combined with a PE (Polyethylene) or PET (Polyethylene Terephtalate) bottle

Onélogy, when beauty becomes freeze-dried

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The editorial staff
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Onélogy

Founded between Paris and New York, Onélogy offers serums in freeze-dried pellets that can be activated in the palm of the hand with 5 to 10 drops of water. In just a few seconds, the tablet transforms into a serum to be applied directly to the skin. This unique patented format combines cutting-edge technology, proven efficacy, ease of use and reduced environmental impact.

The project is the brainchild of beauty marketing expert Roxana Bazgoneh. After more than ten years spent observing the inner workings of the cosmetics industry, she imagined a skincare line based on three pillars: transparency, performance and responsibility. Onélogy was born of this desire to go straight to the heart of the matter, offering pure, active and respectful formulas in a fun, on-the-go format that fits naturally into everyday life.

Technology inspired by the pharmaceutical world

The heart of Onélogy lies in its unique format: freeze-dried serum tablets, stabilized by a process derived from the pharmaceutical sector. Unlike conventional liquid serums, which can lose up to 50 % of their efficacy in 60 days, freeze-drying preserves the integrity of the active ingredients until they are activated with water, according to the brand. "This technology makes each dose self-preserving, with no need for preservatives or complex packaging.says Onélogy. As a result, our products have no conventional expiration date, guaranteeing optimal efficacy every time, even months after production.

A range of five high-precision serums formulated with dermatologists to meet specific skin needs is already available. Designed to be used on their own or in synergy, these products under the name Megadose are ideal for sensitive skin, offering an effective, clean and customizable response.

HPR-Retinoid Serum 0.3 % is a regenerating night-time treatment targeting signs of aging, excess sebum, imperfections, skin texture and uneven skin tone.

Peptides-Cu 0.6 % Serum plumps to smooth and firm the appearance of wrinkles, while refining skin tone and texture.

Sérum Niacinamide 2 % is a protective treatment targeting excess sebum, redness, graininess and uneven skin tone, while stimulating hydration.

PAD Azelaic 5 % Serum is a corrective treatment to improve the appearance of blemishes, breakouts, redness and uneven skin tone.

Sérum Alpha Arbutin 2 % brightens to fade brown spots, discoloration and uneven skin tone.

Formulated and manufactured in France, Onélogy skincare products are suitable for sensitive skin. They contain no fragrances, colorants, mineral oils, silicone, allergens or controversial ingredients. Vegan, cruelty-free, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic, they are part of a clean and committed formulation approach.

ICPI Week: "The cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries are increasingly converging through high-functionality products like cosmeceuticals".

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editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two men are sitting on a black bench, chatting at a business event. One is wearing a suit and badge, the other a blazer and jeans. A blue banner with commercial slogans, including "Brouillon auto", is visible in the background.

As part of ICPI Week, the organizers shared their insights on the local cosmetics market. Interview of James Kim, VP of the organizatiom company.

What are the main reasons for organizing ICPI Week, and how are you positioning it internationally versus locally?

ICPI Week is a convergence exhibition that spans the entire value chain of the bio, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industries-from development and production to logistics. It promotes collaboration across diverse sectors and is growing into Asia's largest convergence industry platform.

Which trade shows under ICPI Week are the most dynamic, and what factors make them stand out?

CI KOREA is a platform covering the entire cosmetics manufacturing process, from raw materials to packaging and automation. It is particularly strong in raw materials and testing/analysis technologies. COPHEX focuses on shared issues in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries-such as GMP, quality control, and production automation-and enhances synergies by reflecting the cosmeceutical (dermo-cosmetic) trend, thereby blurring the boundaries between the two industries.

What are the motivations for companies to exhibit in the cosmetics sector at CI Korea, and what role does the cosmetics industry play in the local economy?

CI KOREA is a product development-oriented B2B exhibition that connects companies with domestic and international buyers and provides access to the latest technologies and ingredients. Participating companies attend to pursue global expansion, promote their products, and find business partners. The exhibition also delivers significant economic ripple effects for the cosmetics industry, such as job creation and increased exports.

What synergies exist between the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, and what major concerns are Korean manufacturers facing?

The cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries are increasingly converging through high-functionality products like cosmeceuticals. Shared technologies such as drug delivery systems (DDS), bio-based ingredients, skin absorption technologies, and GMP systems contribute to mutual growth. A notable example of cross-industry technology exchange is the trend of repurposing drug candidates as cosmetic ingredients.

Are any standout innovations being unveiled at ICPI Week, and what are your views on French-made cosmetics and pharmaceuticals?

Technological innovations such as AI-driven product development and bio-based sustainable materials have garnered attention. French cosmetics remain highly popular due to their premium image, sustainability, and emotional appeal, especially in the clean beauty trend, where French brands continue to hold strong competitiveness.

Expanscience launches its first nutraceutical active ingredient

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The editorial staff
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Tulsi

Laboratoires Expanscience, a family-owned French SME with expertise in dermocosmetics, rheumatology and active cosmetics, is turning a new page in its history by targeting the nutraceuticals market. 

Tulsinity Bio, their very first nutraceutical active ingredient, has been developed to protect the skin from the effects of psychological stress. It is being previewed at Vitafoods Europe - a major international event for the nutraceutical industry - taking place in Barcelona from May 20 to 22, 2025.

The active ingredient is developed from the leaves of tulsi, also known as holy basil, which is certified organic and grown in India according to the most stringent standards of regenerative agriculture (labelled "organic"). Regenerative Organic Certified) and fair trade (labelled Fair for Life). This supply enables Expanscience to develop and offer its customers an active ingredient that is certified AB (Agriculture Biologique), ROC and FFL.

In Ayurvedic medicine, tulsi, the sacred plant, is particularly renowned for its benefits to the mind and soul. Its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunostimulant properties make it a plant-based raw material of choice to contribute to daily well-being, and in particular to limit the negative impact of stress.

Inspired by ayurveda, and aligned with the company's mission " to help individuals shape their own well-being".Tulsinity Bio aims to improve the skin's elasticity, density and cutaneous barrier in the face of daily stress, bringing overall well-being.

This launch marks a strategic step for Expanscience, which intends to conquer this market by focusing on a differentiating axis, combining expertise in natural cosmetic active ingredients and pharmaceutical requirements. Over the next ten years, Expanscience aims to make its nutraceutical active ingredients business just as important as its cosmetic active ingredients business.

Growing demand for transparency and naturalness

"At Expanscience, a mission-driven and B Corp-certified (company), we are committed to becoming a regenerative company by placing fair trade and regenerative agriculture at the heart of our actions for a positive and more sustainable impact.
Our positioning should enable us to differentiate ourselves from other players and to meet consumers' growing expectations in terms of transparency.explains Armelle Le Péniec, Director of Active Cosmetics and Nutraceuticals.

Laboratoires Expanscience points out that the nutraceuticals market is growing fast. It represents more than 2.9 million euros.1 in France, one of the European leaders, and over 212 billion in the United States. This trend is driven by the growing demands of consumers, who are increasingly concerned about their well-being and seek to prevent rather than cure. The market is also showing a growing demand for eco-socially-responsible, more natural products.

1. Source IQVIA 2025
2. Source Euromonitor 2024

Gattefossé and Ambiotis explore the role of pro-resolving lipids in skin aging

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The editorial staff
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Photo_Gattefosse

Gattefosséa supplier of specialty ingredients and formulation solutions for the health and beauty industries, and Ambiotisa research and services company specializing in the innovative evaluation of active ingredients and formulations on the skin, have pooled their scientific expertise to study the role of pro-resolving lipids in skin health, a mechanism that has been little explored until now. The result: innovative cosmetic solutions based on an integrative approach to skin ageing.

Towards a better understanding of skin aging

Long perceived as a simple consequence of the passage of time and external aggression, the

For a long time, skin aging was perceived as a simple consequence of the passage of time and external aggression. Today, it is recognized that it reveals a deep, silent imbalance that weakens the skin's natural defense and regeneration capacities. The result is the appearance of visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of firmness and sagging tissue.

The clinical manifestations of aged skin are well described. However, the molecular and cellular deregulations that occur mean that skin aging is still a poorly understood process.

To maintain skin vitality and age well, cosmetics target the synthesis of dermal extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. According to Gattefossé and Ambiotis, considering new, more integrative approaches, capable of better reflecting the biological complexity found in the skin, will enable us to imagine new anti-aging solutions.

Bioactive lipids at the heart of resolution mechanisms

In this context, Gattefossé and Ambiotis have studied the role of pro-resolving lipids contained in the secretome, in contact with macrophages (true sentinels of the immune system) and fibroblasts (architect cells of the dermal extracellular matrix).

Gattefossé and Ambiotis have characterized and modeled the alterations in pro-resolving lipids found in aged skin, demonstrating that these modifications disrupt interactions between macrophages and dermal fibroblasts. 

The result is aberrant activation of dermal fibroblasts, which adopt a pro-inflammatory and pro-degradative phenotype characterized by increased secretion of matrix metalloproteinases.

An integrative approach to ageing for tomorrow's care

This research opens up new prospects for the design and formulation of innovative anti-aging skincare products.

"Maintaining homeostasis is a fundamental element of human physiology. Fortunately, our bodies, tissues and skin are well equipped to do just that, thanks in particular to the bioactive lipids in the resolution. These lipids play a key role in enabling the body to move from a state of disturbance to a restored state of equilibrium. Promoting increased synthesis of these lipids is tantamount to reinforcing the skin's own beneficial mechanisms, helping to prevent ageing and preserve skin vitality".said Marc Dubourdeau, CEO of Ambiotis.

"It's becoming essential to rethink cosmetic intervention in favor of new, more integrative anti-aging approaches. Skin tissue integrity can no longer be considered solely in terms of the synthesis/degradation ratio of extracellular matrix elements. Targeting pro-resolving bioactive lipids is now becoming a major lever for preserving skin health and acting effectively against ageing, as part of a global approach to healthy aging.explained Nicolas Bechetoille, head of Gattefossé's skin biology research.

Puressentiel: an unprecedented traceability system for its essential oils

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The editorial staff
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Puressentiel

Puressentiel intends to " invent a purer, more natural, more effective form of healthcare. With this in mind, the B Corp-certified brand has taken a new step in transparency and quality by launching its traceability system.

"Pure Transparence" has been designed with the Communify platform and secures its information with Neurochain's blockchain technologies, enabling every professional and consumer to access, from the www.puressentiel.com website, the detailed analysis bulletin for their essential oil, simply by entering the batch number indicated on the packaging.

With this innovative system, Puressentiel guarantees complete traceability, from field to bottle, and testifies to Puressentiel's high standards of quality for its customers. The brand points out that each batch of essential oil undergoes a minimum of seven rigorous checks, carried out in-house and by independent laboratories, to validate its purity, biochemical composition and compliance with the strictest standards.

Puressentiel essential oils are 100 % pure, natural, total, non-denatured, non-reconstituted and chemotyped (HEBBD/HECT). Packaged in France, in the Drôme provençale region, they are the fruit of a rigorous selection of raw materials and a commitment to quality and eco-responsibility.

With this new traceability service, transparency is placed at the heart of the relationship with users, offering them direct access to reliable and precise data on the products they use every day.

"In a market where transparency is still too often partial and naturalness is too often claimed without proof, we have chosen to give our partners and users direct access to scientific and technical information on our essential oils, for informed consumption in complete confidence", explains Isabelle Pacchioni, founder of Laboratoire Puressentiel.

Image taken from the Puressentiel website.

Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics give birth to Clariant Beauty and its range of new products

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The editorial staff
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Clariant Beauty

At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Amsterdam from April 8 to 10, 2025, Clariant announced the launch of its complete portfolio of personal care products under the new name of "Clariant Beauty". 

"This launch of a broad portfolio at in-cosmetics Global demonstrates our commitment to combining innovation with sustainability, said Catherine Breffa, Global Head of Marketing at Clariant. By combining the expertise of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the new name of 'Clariant Beauty', we are providing solutions that not only meet current market demands, but anticipate future beauty care needs."

Clariant Beauty supports Clariant's commitment to developing solutions that align with consumers' and brands' growing priorities for health, transparency and sustainability. As demand grows for products that promote well-being and minimize environmental impact, Clariant provides innovative ingredients and formulation concepts that help brands meet evolving market expectations and regulatory requirements.

Innovative products

For example, the "Heritage Bloom" concept presented at in-Cosmetics includes solutions for frizz control, deep nutrition and scalp care, combining expertise and ingredients from the Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics portfolios. 

At the cutting edge of skincare innovation, GlowCytocin appears to be the first ingredient to harness the benefits associated with the feeling of love.

Derived from white hyacinth bulbs, this active ingredient, backed by a natural origin index of 99.6 %, improves skin luminosity while enhancing receptiveness to a pleasant touch. Clinical studies also demonstrate a visible reduction in wrinkles and improved skin elasticity for rejuvenated skin.

To complement its skin care range, Melicica presents an innovative honey-based repair solution, derived from Australian Jelly Bush honey. This natural, Cosmos-approved 100% ingredient accelerates and optimizes the skin's natural repair process to effectively improve the appearance of scars and damaged skin, whatever the age or skin type.

"Our new active ingredients demonstrate our ability to transform nature's most powerful elements into scientifically proven skincare solutions, says Isabelle Lacasse, Head Global Marketing, Product Line Management & Formulation Lucas Meyer Cosmetics at Clariant. They represent our commitment to sustainable innovation while delivering measurable results to consumers."

The "Skin Sanctuary" concept features three targeted formulas that support the skin barrier throughout daily skincare routines. At its heart is the new Plantasens Emulsifier HP49, an oil-in-water system that displays strong moisturizing properties while leaving a soft sensation after application. Combined with Clariant's Plantasens emollients, the collection of three formulas creates a protective cocoon for the skin.

Aristoflex Sun is an advanced rheology modifier designed for modern suncare products, responding to the growing trend of "Skinification of suncare products". According to Clariant, it guarantees superior UV filter stability at an optimal level, while creating light, fresh textures ideal for everyday UV protection products. With the growing trend towards multifunctional skincare products, Aristoflex Sun offers formulators greater flexibility in creating sophisticated suncare solutions that meet the preferences of today's consumers.

This new product complements Clariant's suncare portfolio, including our recently launched, award-winning Eclipsogen Cap range. This technology offers a stable encapsulation system designed to safeguard UV filters, resulting in homogeneously dispersed particles for enhanced SPF performance. Eclipsogen Cap stands out for its sensorial profile, offering a light feel on the skin, with no white marks, which consumers appreciate in their daily sun care routine.

In the preservation category, Nipaguard SCE Vita introduces Clariant's first all-natural preservation blend for cosmetics. Built on innovative Velsan SC booster technology, this solution enables products to be formulated with a renewable carbon index of 100 %, while offering complete antimicrobial protection against micro-organisms.

Ecocert promotes manufacturers' transition to sustainability by labeling packaging

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The editorial staff
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Ecocert - labels

Against a backdrop of tightening environmental regulations and heightened consumer demands for sustainability, companies are having to rethink their practices. Ecocert, through its dedicated Sustainable Materials department, offers companies solutions to meet these legal requirements, but also to enhance the value of their eco-design initiatives. The aim is to encourage the integration of recycled materials and the marketing of recyclable cosmetics packaging. Ecocert offers brands and manufacturers reference labels, guaranteeing that plastic packaging complies with international standards.

Cosmetics packaging: high expectations and a changing regulatory framework

Packaging represents up to 70 % of the total weight of a cosmetic product. Their environmental impact is therefore scrutinized by consumers, but also framed by increasingly strict regulations, such as the European PPWR (Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation) legislation or the French AGEC (anti-waste law for a circular economy). Among the requirements: targets for packaging recyclability; quantified targets for recycled content in packaging; a requirement for traceability of materials used and transparency on their composition.

At the same time, consumer pressure is strong: nearly two-thirds of French people (63 %) pay close attention to product packaging when making purchases, with the main concerns being packaging practicality (an important criterion for 70 % of consumers surveyed) and environmental information (consulted by 55 % of consumers surveyed).1

Adapted Ecocert labels

In response to growing demands for sustainability, Ecocert has selected several labels that provide essential guarantees of the recyclability and traceability of recycled materials used in packaging and industrial products.

site-industries-cosmetiques Four certification logos: RecyClass recyclability, 90 % of recycled plastic by RecyClass, Global Recycled Standard by Textile Exchange and Ocean Bound Plastic Certified, each supporting Brouillon auto's commitment to sustainability.

The RecyClass Recyclability label assesses the recyclability of packaging by means of a rating (from A to C), and helps to guarantee its reintegration into recycling circuits. In particular, this label enables us to meet some of the packaging verification requirements of the Cosmos standard.

The RecyClass Recycled Plastics Traceability label promotes the use of recycled plastics in your plastic packaging, offering financial advantages (e.g. exemption from plastic tax in Spain, eco-modulation in France) and meeting PPWR requirements (target of 10 to 30 % of recycled plastics by 2030).

The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) label promotes the integration of recycled materials in industrial products, with a guaranteed minimum of 20 % of recycled materials and responsible supply chain management.

The Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) label, for its part, recovers plastic waste collected before it reaches the oceans.

The solutions proposed by Ecocert support the major changes taking place in the cosmetics sector, in particular by encouraging the development of single-material packaging, which is more easily recyclable, as well as the elimination of over-packaging and the lightening of packaging, as part of a reinforced eco-design approach.

The labels proposed by the organization represent a strategic lever for transforming business models, accelerating the transition to a circular economy and reducing the ecological footprint of packaging.

"Cosmetics brands and manufacturers are faced with a dual requirement: to preserve the consumer experience while reducing the environmental impact of their products, particularly their packaging. Our labels support this transition by ensuring the veracity of the commitments made, and by providing reliable benchmarks for reconciling technicality and environmental responsibility, by promoting recyclability and the integration of recycled materials in packaging. Innovation in terms of recyclability is essential, but we are convinced that manufacturers must also include the development of their packaging in a global approach based on the 3Rs - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle".explains Sylvana Scampini, head of Ecocert's sustainable materials department.

1. All4pack Emballage Paris survey: the French and product packaging 

In-cosmetics Global 2025: an international edition under the banner of respect for the environment

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The editorial staff
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in Cosmetics Global Innovation Zone

On April 10, 2025, in Amsterdam, in-cosmetics Global closed its doors on its most international edition yet, with a worldwide audience of 84 % and a 16 % increase in the number of international visitors.

Some 10,879 visitors attended. "We always come to in-cosmetics Global because it's very important for the company to showcase our formulations, make contact with customers and meet potential new partners. The event is a way of presenting and exposing our company to the world".said Lucile Raffray, R&D Project Manager for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

Ideas that count

The brand-new Testing and Regulation Forum, in collaboration with Skinobs, offered 10 sessions exploring changing regulatory landscapes, cross-border compliance challenges and emerging testing technologies, with a focus on longevity and anti-pollution. One of the highlights of the forum was the discussion "Regulatory Panel: Navigating Global Regulatory Challenges", which brought together experts from REACH24H, the European Federation of Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI), the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA), Potion and the Bustos Law Group.

Heather Bustos, Managing Partner of the Bustos Law Group, compared the different regulatory environments, noting that "many brands in the US are inspired by EU practices and their well-established regulations". For her part, Sanjana Balani, founder and CEO of Potion, recalled that India had "pioneered the ban on animal testing" across Asia, and positioned India as a leader in progressive industry regulation.

The highly anticipated Marketing Trends Theatre hosted 21 sessions with analysts, researchers, cosmetics scientists and marketing experts from companies such as Mintel, The Benchmarking Company, Keune Haircosmetics, Coty, Beauty Pie and many more.

Marica Kilgore, visionary founder of Beauty Pie, Bliss, Soap and Glory and FitFlop, shared her personal journey and real-world insights in an informal discussion on the cosmetics sector. She stressed the importance of building a brand with a strong "why", which led to the creation of Beauty Pie - a brand driven by the belief that consumers deserve more from their beauty products. She offered practical advice to fellow entrepreneurs, including her 80/20 rule: focus 80 % of your energy on your unique selling point and 20 % on exploring new sector opportunities.

 Emilie Hood, Beauty and Consumer Health Consultant at Euromonitor International, presented "Beauty Outlook: Innovation in Personal Care". Her data-driven analysis highlighted innovation, renovation and disruption as key growth drivers, while predicting that more targeted offers and a push for sustainability and authenticity will shape the beauty industry well beyond 2025.

With specialized ingredients typically found in dermatologists' offices and professional settings becoming more commonplace, Selma Carvalho, Medical Affairs Specialist and Medical Scientific Liaison at Galderma, moderated a roundtable discussion on the dermocosmetics market. Experts from Teoxane SA, Evolved by Nature, Medico wellness Co., Ltd. and MyMicrobiome AG joined the session to offer perspectives covering dermatology, formulation and marketing. Panelists addressed the growing gap between consumer perceptions and medical advice, as well as how consumers are increasingly becoming "asset experts", as ingredient-based beauty continues to grow.

Dr Romun Leaovitav, from Medico Wellness Co. Ltd, explained that many consumers are looking for quick fixes, often using products that are not suitable for their skin, despite the potential harmful side effects. The session coincided with the launch of the report "Exploring growth and development in dermocosmetics - where health meets beauty", which delved into the subject of the impact of ingredients on the industry.

In their presentation entitled "Fragrance Frenzy: Scents & Emotions Consumers Crave from Your Brand", Denise Herich and Jennifer Stansbury, both co-founders and partners of The Benchmarking Company, highlighted the vital role played by fragrances in the beauty and personal care sectors, revealing how they shape consumer desire, loyalty and brand attachment. They also unveiled original consumer research showing that the main reasons for using fragrance are to smell good (88 %), to enhance sensory experiences (73 %), and almost all consumers agree that fragrance affects mood (99 %).

Reminding us of the urgent need for transparency and scientific rigor in substantiating skincare claims, Stewart Long, CEO of Cutest Systems Ltd, presented a session entitled "The New Science Validating the Efficacy of Next-gen Anti-ageing Formulations in Clinical Studies", giving an overview of how clinical research drives innovation in skincare and emphasizing the importance of evidence-based claims: "People look at us and think we're making things up," he said.

Science, innovation and sustainability

Highlighting the latest trends in science, innovation and sustainability, the show focused on how these pillars are shaping the future of cosmetics. The Formulation Lab®, sponsored by Brenntag and in partnership with Enkos Developments and IKA, was led by award-winning cosmetics scientist Lorna Radford. Formulators and R&D teams from cosmetics manufacturers and contract manufacturers rolled up their sleeves to experiment with new techniques, hone their skills and share ideas, all under the expert guidance of representatives from IMCD, Kobo Products, IOI Oleo GmbH, Dow, Symrise AG and Oqema Group.

Sponsored by Azelis, the expanded program of technical seminars featured 125 sessions led by experts from companies such as Sytheon, Eastman, Vantage Personal Care and Univar Solutions. A wide range of topics were covered, including new technologies, specifications and innovative concepts.

The Fragrance Zone showcased the latest technologies and innovations in fragrance creation, delivery systems and formulation processes. Exhibitors such as Carvansons and Microcaps AG presented new products. Eurofragance celebrated 35 years of olfactory innovation by inviting visitors to discover three immersive zones on its stand: Mindful Together, Empowered Together and United Together.  

Perfume house Luzi AG unveiled its latest collection, Off Fire, inspired by moments of calm and disconnection from the stress, overload and excess of everyday life. Luzi also presented The Breathing Drop, a sculptural installation inspired by one of the five new fragrance themes. Created in collaboration with artist Annabel Schneider, the work transforms fragrance into a visual and sensory experience, serving as a striking expression of the collection.

In partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy and Ecovia Intelligence, and sponsored by AAK, the Sustainability Zone focused on recycled ingredients, life cycle assessments (LCAs), emissions, biotechnology, the circular economy and responsible sourcing. Companies such as Elementis, Fairglow, The Carbon Trust, ProvitaL, S.A., BioTara AG addressed the main environmental challenges.

The theme of sustainability ran through many elements of the show, with organizers challenging exhibitors, visitors and their own teams to operate as sustainably as possible over the three days. Laboratoires Expanscience received the Sustainable Stand Award, which recognizes exhibitors who have actively implemented environmentally-friendly measures in the design and construction of their stand. 

A pivotal year for innovations

Sponsored by KSM-66 Ashwagandha, the event welcomed over 1,000 exhibitors, many of whom showcased their latest products and innovations. The Innovation Zine, sponsored by Ashland, showcased a record 211 new ingredients from 163 companies, highlighting innovations launched over the past six months and at the show. All ingredients were in the running for the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Ingredient awards. Pickmulse from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won gold in the Functional category, while Solabia Group took gold in the Active category for Pro-Longevia.

In the Exhibitor Zone, Swiss company Kinematica presented an advanced homogenization and dispersion technology for emulsions, suspensions and foams, while Evolved By Nature, which won the Rising Star award - and was shortlisted for four other prizes - highlighted its Activated Silk peptides of natural origin and manufactured using recycled and renewable resources. White Tiger Ground presented its organic antibacterial ingredient and preservative derived from kimchi, and was awarded bronze in the Best Functional Ingredient category.

"In-cosmetics Global 2025 is our most international edition to date. Amsterdam provided the perfect setting for industry leaders from around the world to exchange ideas, explore the latest innovations and shape the future of cosmetic science. The market's focus on sustainability, inclusivity and forward-thinking solutions were at the heart of many discussions."said Roziani Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global. 

The next edition of In-cosmetics Global will take place at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, from April 14 to 16, 2026.

Aroma-Zone chooses Relex Solutions to optimize its supply chain   

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The editorial staff
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RELEX-Solutions

Finnish company Relex Solutions offers a planning platform that optimizes demand, merchandising, procurement, operations and production along the entire value chain. The company develops unified planning solutions for supply chain and retail, to integrate a complete end-to-end planning solution.

The Relex Solutions platform has been selected by Aroma-Zone. The French company specializing in beauty and wellness products will use it for demand, supply and production planning, with the aim of optimizing its logistics operations, supporting growth and improving efficiency. 

This project will be implemented in collaboration with Supply Chain Company, a Relex partner specializing in supply chain acceleration and optimization.  

Aroma-Zone, which stands out for its natural and organic beauty and wellness products, has over 25 stores and a distribution center. After experiencing strong growth, thanks in particular to the boom in beauty products during the pandemic, the company was looking for a solution to support this rapid expansion and improve the organization of demand and supply. The project, initially focused on supply and production planning, was extended to include demand planning, due to the synergy and results demonstrated by Relex. 

"Thanks to Relex's advanced tools and expertise, we are convinced that this collaboration will support our growth and improve the efficiency of our supply chain. Our aim is to optimize inventory availability and meet the growing demand for our products. We have every confidence that Relex will deliver tangible results.said Romuald Deston, Chief Procurement Officer at Aroma-Zone. 

With the advanced analytics and real-time data integration offered by Relex, Aroma-Zone will benefit from a global vision of its supply chain, enabling rapid decision-making and proactive management of over 6,000 product references. This will enable the company to accurately anticipate customer demand and better manage seasonal peaks, particularly for essential oils, guaranteeing the availability of the most popular products. 

"We are proud to collaborate with Aroma-Zone and Relex on this strategic project with our team of experts. We are fully committed to ensuring the success of this initiative, to support Aroma-Zone's ambitious growth objectives and to lay the foundations for future successes", said Henk Jan Rijkse, CEO of Supply Chain Company.  

"Aroma-Zone's commitment to sustainability and customer focus resonates deeply with our values at Relex. It aligns perfectly with our mission to deliver sustainable and efficient supply chain solutions. We have a proven track record of meeting challenges in retail and manufacturing, and look forward to creating measurable value to support their growth and optimize their supply chain."added Stefano Scandelli, General Manager of the Manufacturing unit at Relex Solutions.  

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