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Shiseido invests in innovative companies

Shiseido

Shiseido has set up a venture capital fund to make early-stage investments in innovative companies in the beauty and well-being sector.

The Japanese Shiseido Group has announced the launch of Shiseido Long Term Investments for the Future (Lift) Ventures, a newly created limited liability company dedicated to investing in innovative start-up companies in the beauty and wellness sector. 

The focus will be on new technologies, innovative platforms, high-growth brands and new business models. The fund will focus primarily on innovation in the Western hemisphere, while maintaining a global vision.

At the same time, the company also announced the fund's first investments in Phyla, a US company investing in bacteriophage technology, and Patricks, an Australian brand of men's skincare products.

"Since Shiseido was founded in 1872, innovation has been a fundamental pillar of our company and an essential element of our future. "said Masahiko Uotani, President and CEO of Shiseido. For the CEO, the creation of Lift Ventures represents a new opportunity to forge partnerships with companies focused on creating pioneering beauty and wellness solutions, and opens up a whole new world of possibilities for Shiseido.

"Supporting, mentoring and empowering new businesses are important elements of our future roadmap. We're excited to share our perspective, exercise our vast experience, forge strategic partnerships and help like-minded entrepreneurs develop and achieve long-term growth. With this in mind, we're delighted to be partnering with Phyla and Patricks, two companies committed to driving innovation and disrupting their respective categories."says Ron Gee, President and CEO of Shiseido Americas.

Lift Ventures will be headed by Ron Gee and based in New York.

Photo taken from https://corp.shiseido.com.

Zegna and Give Back Beauty announce long-term licensing agreement

Zegna - Give Back Beauty

On November 1, 2023, Zegna, the international luxury menswear brand, announced that a long-term licensing agreement had been signed with Give Back Beauty. The agreement covers the creation, production, marketing and distribution of fragrances and cosmetics under the Zegna brand worldwide.

Zegna has chosen Give Back Beauty, known for its ability to create differentiating brand identities for both fashion brands and celebrities, to support the transformation strategy of its fragrance and beauty licensing business, drawing on the group's international "go to market" organization and its understanding of multi-generational consumer habits. 

"The "culture of beauty" has always guided the Zegna Group in its choices, based primarily on a profound respect for people and the environment. This value has been part of the brand's DNA since 1910, when Ermenegildo Zegna founded the eponymous company. It also testifies to the conviction that a quality product can only be achieved through absolute attention to detail.explains Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna, Chairman and CEO of the Zegna Group. Known for its multi-category expertise, focus on innovation and sustainability, Give Back Beauty is the ideal partner to develop new lines of men's beauty products, perfectly aligned with Zegna's eco-responsible DNA and unique identity. This licensing agreement is part of our selective strategy to extend the Zegna brand, which will further enrich the customer experience in the years to come."

"We are excited about our new partnership with Zegna and are convinced that it will accelerate many of our joint business strategies, particularly those related to ethical entrepreneurship and sustainable development. Our status as experts in the world of beauty is in line with Zegna's position as world leader in the luxury menswear market. Our two houses have built their reputations on a dual capacity for innovation and long-term vision. We look forward to celebrating our future successes, and embarking on this new journey together.says Corrado Brondi, CEO and founder of Give Back Beauty.

Based in Italy, Give Back Beauty is an international group that creates, manufactures, markets and distributes fragrance and beauty brands from the world of fashion and celebrities, covering perfumes, cosmetics, make-up, hair care and body care. 

Present in over 130 countries (via retailers and direct-to-consumer sales), the Group is the exclusive worldwide fragrance and beauty licensee for brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Chopard, Elie Saab, Philipp Plein and Iceberg. It is also the strategic partner and distributor for other leading beauty brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Olaplex and Billie Eilish.

The Group's Indie and Talent division acts as an incubator for celebrity brands such as Florence by Mills, by Millie Bobby Brown. 

Cosmogen's Tense tube enhances men's looks

Cosmogen - Horace

Horace, a brand of natural products for men, has designed its Moisturizing Eye Contour in a tube with a metal applicator, reusable on a refill, inspired by Tense, Cosmogen's innovative tube.

"Our Moisturizing Eye Contour moisturizes and smoothes the eye contour area. Daily use reduces dark circles and puffiness. Its metallic, reusable applicator refreshes and decongests immediately."explains the brand.

The patented Tube Tense is available in PCR (recycled plastic), with a removable ceramic or metal applicator that can be reused on a refill. The metal applicator can be textured and customized for a unique sensory signature.

Sederma draws inspiration from Qi for new asset 

Solabia - Luceane

Cellular oxygenation, healthy skin, holistic beauty routines, biotechnology and traditional practices: Luceane, Sederma's new active ingredient, meets all the expectations of cosmetics consumers.

Luceane is inspired by the Qi concept of traditional Chinese medicine concerning the circulation of the skin's vital energy, as well as new contemporary oxygen therapy practices in beauty salons. Luceane counteracts hypoxia by stimulating and protecting cellular respiration and energy production. It also induces the elimination of micropollutants within cells, invigorates cellular metabolisms and strengthens the skin's holobiont. It slows down the aging process by five years after just one month* of application, reducing signs of cutaneous fatigue and improving skin radiance.

Luceane is a bioactive saccharide extract obtained by biofermentation of a strain of Pseudoalteromonasisolated from gorgonians in the tropical reefs of the Bahamas. The Bahamas are renowned for having the cleanest, clearest ocean waters and the least air pollution. Luceane is 100 % natural origin and easily biodegradable, with complete degradation after 28 days. It is produced via a highly sustainable manufacturing process with full waste recovery, complies with Chinese regulatory standards and is RSPO certified.

* Clinical test carried out on 54 volunteers during a two-month application of a serum containing 3 % Luceane versus placebo.

Photo taken from crodapersonalcare.com.

Groupe GM and Éditions de Parfum Frédéric Malle: a line of eco-friendly home products

Hotel room visual

Groupe GM, a global specialist in sustainable hospitality products, has announced the launch of its second hospitality line in collaboration with Éditions de Parfum Frédéric Malle, following the successful launch of the Eau de Magnolia hotel line. This new line highlights another famous fragrance: Cologne Indélébile, created by renowned nose Dominique Ropion.

Creating aromatic excellence

Frédérique Malle, emblematic French perfume expert, represents the third generation of perfume specialists in her family. Her grandfather, Serge Heftler-Louiche, founded Parfums Christian Dior, before passing on his artistic direction to Frédéric's mother. 

Like a publisher working with authors, Frédéric Malle helps perfumers give the best of themselves, enabling them to create exceptional fragrances that will become tomorrow's classics.

A celebrated perfectionist and true inventor, Dominique Ropion often balances excessive doses of powerful ingredients with more subtle, meticulously measured accords, until the composition stands on its own. The olfactory formulation of the Cologne Indélébile line is based on white musk, known to have two facets: one pure, the other tempting. Accentuating its binary character produces a fragrance both innocent and irresistible, divided between an Eau de Cologne accord of lemon, bergamot and orange blossom, set against a seductive ocean of white musk.

The hotel line

Inspired by the Cologne Indélébile fragrance, the new hotel line has the same white musk base, offering a new olfactory experience for hotel guests.

Its chic white design comes in a variety of formats. These include 50 ml white aluminum tubes for shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and bubble bath. Scented, pleated hand and body soaps, available in 40 g and RSPO-MB certified, complete the line, ensuring a consistent, elegant aesthetic for the entire collection.

As part of the GM Group's "Care About Earth" program, large-format dispensers are also available, such as the Ecofill, an innovative, secure dispenser that is refillable and 100 % traceable.

Ecofill Cologne Indélébile is made of aluminum, and the refill pouches for shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and hand soap are recyclable, with a capacity of 300 ml and containing just 8 g of plastic. 

The Ecofill dispenser prevents bacterial contamination thanks to sealed refill pouches that also guarantee product origin, quality and traceability. Wall brackets in stainless steel or recyclable black or white ABS plastic can be fixed to the wall with two screws or double-sided adhesive tape for secure installation of the dispenser.

The range also includes the Ghost 400 ml dispenser, with its ingenious ecological design, made from sugar cane. This dispenser is designed for a variety of products such as shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and hand soap. As its name suggests, Ghost is mounted on a concealed rail that gives the impression that the product is levitating.

Care About Earth

Strictly respecting the principles of Groupe GM's "Care About Earth" program, the Cologne Indélébile line is part of an approach designed to minimize the impact of products on the environment, encourage sustainable practices and preserve our planet for future generations. As a supplier of eco-responsible hospitality products, Groupe GM has chosen to give preference to plant-based materials, recycled plastic and 100 % renewable raw materials.

Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said: "We are delighted to continue this fruitful collaboration with Les Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and to add more eco-friendly hospitality products to this luxury line. Like Frédéric Malle's vision, Groupe GM is relentlessly committed to creativity, quality and innovation. This line, which fully reflects our core values, will enable hotels around the world to pamper their guests with fragranced hospitality products derived from expert craftsmanship."

At Chanel's instigation, Pochet reduces its CO2 emissions thanks to a solution developed by a start-up company

Pochet - Chanel n°5 - Reburning the bottle

Glassmaker Pochet, which recently celebrated its 400th anniversary, controls all its energy consumption (gas, water, electricity) via a solution developed by Metron. This digitalized management system enables the company to reduce its carbon footprint, as well as that of its customers, including Chanel, the company behind the project. 

The Pochet Group and Chanel share a commitment to reducing the carbon footprint of perfume bottle and skincare jar manufacturing. Chanel has initiated a collaboration between the Pochet Group, its supplier of high-quality perfume bottles and skincare jars, and Metron, a French cleantech company specializing in digital energy-efficiency solutions to decarbonize industry. 

This collaboration between three players committed to energy management has enabled Chanel to reduce emissions from its value chain (scope 3), in line with its "Chanel Mission 1.5°" climate commitment program. 

The Pochet group, for its part, has reduced energy consumption by 27 % for its gas-fired annealers, important machines in the production of glass bottles.

The initiative benefits all Pochet Group customers as part of its ambitious decarbonization plan defined in 2021. The first French glassmaker to equip itself with an electric furnace technology for luxury bottles, the group will be operating this equipment by the end of 2024. Electric melting technologies will make it possible to produce glass that is largely carbon-free, while retaining the brilliance and transparency that are the hallmarks of Pochet glass.

The decarbonization plan also includes more than 40 projects covering 91 % of the Pochet Group's current CO2 emissions. These will be halved by 2033.

The Metron solution was tested at Guimerville, in the Seine-Maritime region, at the Pochet group's glass plant, an industrial site specializing in the manufacture of glass bottles and jars for the luxury goods industry. The plant employs some 1,600 people and produces a million bottles a day, including Chanel perfume bottles. Thanks to hundreds of data sensors throughout the production chain, Metron's real-time energy visualization solution makes it possible to measure, standardize and optimize energy consumption during the production of each bottle/pot. Conclusive experiment. 

The solution is now being deployed at Pochet's seven other French industrial sites. This enables the group to control its energy performance down to the very last bottle, and deliver to luxury brands a product whose environmental quality is optimized for each item. 

Drawing on glassmaking expertise dating back to 1623, the Pochet Group is constantly innovating to improve and digitalize its centuries-old industrial processes. "This collaboration aims to continue the digitalization of the Pochet Group and to offer our customers high-quality products for sustainable beauty," says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval Operations Manager.

This collaboration between a world-renowned luxury house, an industrial group that produces in France and a cleantech startup, winner of French Tech 2030, demonstrates the ability of French industry to work together to offer industrial innovations that benefit the environment. Julien Garry, General Manager of Purchasing, Development and Innovation at Chanel comments: " This initiative by Chanel, the Pochet Group and Metron benefits the entire ecosystem and contributes to the environmental transition of the luxury goods industry. It's by measuring precisely that we can make lasting improvements.

Vincent Sciandra, Metron CEO, concludes: " We are proud to play our part in making the decarbonization of industrial processes a competitive lever for the luxury and beauty industry, while respecting the quality and authenticity of products that are emblematic of French know-how. This collaboration highlights the importance of carbon traceability for industrial products, which is emerging as a growing need in tomorrow's industry. "

Solabia Group wins award in Milan

Solabia

With its longevity-boosting Essenc'Age active ingredient, the Solabia group won a prestigious Wise Ingredient Award at the Making Cosmetics Award held in Milan on November 22, 2023. 

Essenc'Age is a pure 100 % powder composed of fucoidans, low molecular weight (<30kDa) sulfated polysaccharides obtained from a concentrated and purified aqueous extract of brown seaweed. Ascophyllum nodosum. Its action targets the key mechanisms of cellular senescence: according to Solabia, "Essenc'Age positively influences longevity to delay programmed aging and prevent induced aging." 

Essenc'Age helps correct and prevent the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging. According to Solabia, it improves the skin's elasticity and stretchability for an anti-fatigue effect; it moisturizes and smoothes, from 28 days, overall facial wrinkles for a visibly younger appearance, in both men and women; it rejuvenates the look of men, while it refreshes and evens out the complexion of women. Finally, by improving the structure of the micro-relief on the surface, it tends to resynchronize the skin's physiological age with its biological age. 

"The combination of these anti-aging and anti-fatigue properties makes Essenc'Age an active ingredient capable of improving the perception of oneself and one's image in the mirror, to age well, with serenity!"says the Solabia Group.

In order to use exceptional ingredients, Solabia travels far from industrial and agricultural activities. On the island of Ouessant in Brittany, 20 km off the Atlantic coast, Salobia harvests the brown algae Ascophylle des Roches, free from pollution.

On the island of Ouessant, Ascophyllum nodosumThis certified organic seaweed is meticulously harvested by hand from the rocks at the time of the tide, in accordance with best practices designed to protect the island's ecology.

Ouessant, classified by Unesco as a Biosphere Reserve of the Mer d'Iroise for its unique ecosystem, is a windswept island with a constant water temperature all year round. 

Burberry Beauty wins over customers with Pure Trade

Burberry - Pure Trade

A cardboard box dressed in FSC paper was designed for Burberry Beauty by Pure Trade, containing 180 imitation tortoiseshell acetate letters, coordinated with the natural tortoiseshell perfume bottle stoppers, and 90 gold-plated metal fastening rings. The charms are designed to personalize in-store customer bags with their initials.

Pure Trade's work for Burberry includes:

  • A metal mirror with an imitation scale back (acetate), emblematic of the brand.
  • An acetate comb in imitation tortoiseshell. The logo is hot-stamped, and a recycled cotton case with flap featuring the twill pattern of Burberry trench coats is supplied.
  • A lipstick case in mirrored material, made mobile with a gold-tone metal snap hook, featuring a black screen-printed logo and a gold-tone press stud.
  • A 30 x 30 cm facial towel made in Europe from beige 100 % cotton terry, with a tone-on-tone embroidered logo. Presented in a silver mirrored paper pouch embossed with the tone-on-tone monogram and embellished with the gold hot-stamped logo.

Anti-stress mineral concentrate for sublimated skin  

MYOLINE_illustration

Silab is the creator of Myoline, a natural relaxing active ingredient derived from the mineral richness of watercress. Its "botox-like", well-being-boosting effect makes it an ideal solution for skin under psychological stress.

Skin: a reflection of emotions

As a mirror of our emotional state, the skin is particularly affected by stress. This is evidenced by the premature emergence of expression lines and a dull complexion when facial muscles tense up and skin-level stress mediators are secreted.

Silab has chosen to harness the mineral power of watercress to target the behavioral and biological consequences of stress.

A botox-like mineral elixir for skin well-being

Myoline has a muscle relaxant action in vitro by acting on the neuro-muscular junction. According to Silab, this effectiveness translates into in vivo through a "botox-like" effect. Silab reports that in just five days, the first expression lines of young skin are smoothed out and the wrinkles of mature skin are softened, with an effect comparable to that obtained with a retouched photo ("soft focus" effect).

According to Silab, Myoline also influences the secretion of well-being mediators: skin oxytocin and endocannabinoid pathways are stimulated to improve skin homeostasis. The volunteers' perception of stress is reduced, and their skin quality is improved: barrier function is restored, hydration is increased and complexion radiance is enhanced. 

Local, secure supplies

Silab is part of an upcycling approach, valorizing watercress of quality not selected for the food sector, favoring local, traced, secure and environmentally-friendly sourcing. The raw material is authenticated using the barcoding molecular.

In addition, to control the quality of the watercress and diversify the activities of the farmer in charge of production, Silab has undertaken to support the watercress farm in the construction of an industrial dryer.

Myoline is a patented active ingredient recommended at a dose of 0.5 to 2.0 %. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It respects biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 99.2 % (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Hauts-de-France: first stop on Cosmetic Valley's Tour de France

Helioscreen Cosmetic Sciences- Hauts de France-Cosmetic Valley

At the end of November, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster launched a tour of France's regions, with Hauts-de-France as the first stopover.

Hauts-de-France is France's leading cosmetics exporting region. The region attracts some of the biggest names in the sector, including LVMH, L'Oréal, Chanel, Colgate Palmolive and Unilever.

The industrial wealth of the Hauts-de-France region is reflected not only in the production sites of major groups, but also in the diversity of companies contributing to every stage of the process: from mold makers to glassmakers (Pochet, Verescence, Stoelzle), plastics manufacturers (Pijaplast, Qualipac, etc.), raw material suppliers (Roquette, Aiglon, etc.), shapers (Superga, Sarbec, Alkos, etc.) and packaging and logistics companies.

Research and innovation are also very much in evidence. The Université d'Artois, involved with Cosmetic Valley, is actively participating in accredited projects linked to plant-based chemistry. Links with institutions such as UTC Compiègne, Escom and the University of Lille will further stimulate innovation in the sector.

Making contacts

During this first leg of its tour, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster got closer to its members through company visits. These meetings enabled players such as Labosphère, Superga Beauty, Aiglon, HelioScreen and Pijaplast to showcase their innovative projects and explore the support opportunities offered by Cosmetic Valley.

The visit to Hauts-de-France ended on November 24 with a network event, the "Cosmetic Contact", a unique meeting between manufacturers, public laboratories and training organizations from across the perfumery-cosmetics sector. Cosmetic Valley's regional stops are also aimed at meeting potential local partners. 

"This first step in the Hauts-de-France region marks the beginning of a strengthened dialogue between Cosmetic Valley, its members and key regional players. We are convinced that this fruitful collaboration will further stimulate innovation, research and development in the regional cosmetics industry".said Soline Godet, Cosmetic Valley Deputy Managing Director, Businesses and Territories. 


Hauts-de-France in figures

  • 1st exporting region in 2022: €6.4 billion
  • 338 establishments, including 164 industrial sites and 174 retail outlets.
  • Four L'Oréal sites, two Chanel sites, two LVMH sites, one Colgate/Palmolive site, one Unilever site.
  • 16,790 jobs: 47 % with suppliers and subcontractors (7,914 employees), 26.5% with brands (4,445 employees), 26.4% in retail (4,431 employees).

Photo:
Helioscreen Cosmetic Sciences in Creil, a company specializing in in vitro sun testing since 1999.

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