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French cosmetics: record exports

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The editorial staff
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Make-up

According to data released by the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), French cosmetics exports are on the up, despite less buoyant markets. For the first time, they exceeded the €20 billion mark.

In 2023, French cosmetics exports rose by +10.8% year-on-year to 21.3 billion euros. 

Make-up and facial care products rank first with an increase of +9.9 % (€11 bn) followed by fragrances, up +10.5 % (€7.1 bn). Perfume exports have doubled since 2019. Hair care products recorded the strongest growth (+15.8 %).

Europe and the United States, leading customers for French cosmetics

The leading export market for French cosmetics, the European Union accounts for 40.2 % (€8.6 Bn) of total exports, a share up +20.8% compared to 2022. Germany, Spain and Italy remain the top three importers of French cosmetics. In Europe, make-up and facial care recorded the strongest growth with +23.6 % (€3.7 bn), followed by perfumes, which rose by 18.3 % (€2.9 bn).

The United States remains the world's leading buyer of French cosmetics. In particular, one in five perfume products is exported there. However, growth in this market has slowed considerably, to 2.8 % in 2023, compared with 26.7% the previous year.

Growth in the US market was driven by fragrances, with +1.9 % growth (€1.2 bn), followed by make-up and facial care, with +5.3 % growth (€1.1 bn).

China and the Middle East: a slowdown

In 2023, the Chinese market will grow by +1.7% to reach €1.99 billion in cosmetics exports, down on 2022 (+5% that year). Growth in China remains primarily driven by the "Make-up and facial care" category, up 2.9 % (€1.7 bn). One in four French lipsticks is now exported to China. Perfumes, for their part, show growth of +2.5% in 2023. By contrast, the "Body hygiene and care" category, which rounds out the top 3 exported products, is losing 29.6 % in China.

In the Middle East, exports of French cosmetics fell by -2.9 %, due in particular to a sharp drop in exports to Saudi Arabia (-19 %), partly offset by growth in the United Arab Emirates (+6 %).

"Despite major disparities between countries, French cosmetics continue to enjoy remarkable international growthsays Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea. Passing the symbolic milestone of 20 billion euros shows that the sector continues to win over consumers the world over, thanks to its innovation and ability to respond to their changing expectations. The industry, more than 80 % of which is made up of VSEs and SMEs, makes a major contribution to improving France's trade balance, and continues to increase the attractiveness of French cosmetics worldwide."

In all, over 60 % of French cosmetics production is exported. The sector is now the second-largest contributor to the positive balance of trade, behind the aeronautics sector and ahead of wines & spirits.

Febea notes that "made in France" remains an essential asset for the cosmetics sector.

These annual estimates are based on official customs figures for January to November 2023 inclusive. December results have been estimated on the basis of the average for the 11 months of 2023.

Photo: © Xaara Novack / Pixabay

Lancôme X Louvre: the two applicators on the Richelieu palette are made by Cosmogen

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The editorial staff
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Cosmogen - Lancôme x Louvre

Inspired by nine masterpieces of sculpture and the lights and colors of the Louvre Museum, Lancôme has created a new skincare and make-up collection: Lancôme x Louvre. Included in this collection is the Richelieu palette, a make-up palette.

While Texen Beauty Partners was responsible for the make-up paletteCosmogen created the two mini double applicators inserted in the palette. Their black handle with aluminum ferrule accommodates three NBR foam tips and a beveled PBT bristle tuft, for professional application of shades and materials to all areas of the face.

With the multi-purpose Richelieu palette, Lancôme celebrates the sculpture of Corine, a Greek poetess from the 5th century BC, exhibited in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre. The poetry of this palette, created by Lisa Eldridge, is inspired by the magnetic light of the gallery, punctuated by the relief of the sculptures, revealing their silent but surprising beauty.

Expert in the application of skincare and make-up, Cosmogen offers a wide choice of eco-designed, fully-customizable mini-applicators. Handle: aluminum, RPP, RPET; RPET or PBT tuft from production by-products (Post Industrial Recycling). The company's in-house product lifecycle analysis tool, specifically dedicated to brushes, enables the impact of each of the solutions proposed to be measured.

Gilles Andrier (DG Givaudan) to receive Hall of Fame Award from The Fragrance Foundation

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The editorial staff
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Gilles Andrier - Givaudan

Gilles Andrier, CEO of Givaudan, will receive the prestigious Hall of Fame Award from The Fragrance Foundation (TFF) at the Fragrance Foundation Awards ceremony in New York on June 5, 2024. This annual award recognizes and celebrates "outstanding individuals, innovations and achievements within the American fragrance industry."

Gilles Andrier began his career with Givaudan in 1993. He held several key positions, including Director of Fragrance Operations in the USA, Head of Functional Fragrances for Europe, Head of Fine Fragrances for Europe and Global Head of Fine Fragrances, before being appointed CEO of Givaudan in 2005. During his tenure, he led the company's global development and redefined its strategic direction. During this period, Givaudan made major acquisitions and experienced significant growth.

"On behalf of Givaudan, I am incredibly honored and touched to receive The Fragrance Foundation's Hall of Fame Award 2024. This award honors all Givaudan employees for their creativity, passion and contribution to our wonderful fine fragrance industry, said Gilles Andrier. Being part of this beautiful industry, one of art and craftsmanship combined with innovation, has had a profound effect on my life. The power of fragrance to stir emotions, evoke memories and bring joy to people's lives is a lasting contribution we can all be proud of."

"Gilles Andrier is an exemplary and dynamic leader whose strategic vision and passion for the fragrance industry are evident in everything he does and in the way he leads. Our shared values and vision for the world of fragrance put people, products and perfumers at the heart of our business. Gilles Andrier has been at the forefront of sustainability and IED initiatives within his organization, building community and linking business goals with a love of nature. We are extremely proud to award this distinction in recognition of both Givaudan's and Gilles' legacy."said Linda Levy, President of The Fragrance Foundation.

Texen's new modular eye brush wins award at Makeup in Los Angeles

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The editorial staff
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Texen - Multi Intensity Brush Eyes

Unveiled at the recent Paris Packaging Week, the Multi Intensity Brush Eyes has just received an IT Award (in the accessories category) from Makeup in Los Angeles.

A year after the launch of its Multi Intensity Brush for the face, Texen Beauty Partners is applying the same concept to eye make-up. 

A patented innovation, the Multi Intensity Brush enables full face make-up to be applied with a single brush. Brush density and length can be adjusted by rotating the ferrule. Texen Beauty Partners is now extending the concept to eye make-up, following conclusive tests with brands. The Multi Intensity Brush Eyes uses an identical rotating mechanism for a thinner brush, this time with a double tip. 

One double tip, five uses

After observing make-up techniques and taking an interest in consumer expectations, Texen Beauty Partners has developed a double-ended brush featuring an adjustable brush and a fixed bevelled brush designed to apply a dense, ultra-defined line of eyeliner. 

On the other side, the oval-shaped ferrule allows for variable angles and positions. Applying a neutral base to the mobile eyelid, shading, widening the gaze, darkening the hollow of the eye, blending, blurring... all the gestures of an eye make-up routine are envisaged, whatever the shape of the eye or the texture of the skin. 

"This single brush guarantees a make-up result for which five brushes of different shapes and densities would have been needed. Space-saving, this brush offers the essentials of a routine we're not prepared to compromise on. It's up to us to create the compromise between innovation and use".explains Nathasha Marquez, Marketing Manager at Texen Beauty Partners.

Offered with a PBT handle and bristles, Multi Intensity Brush Eyes can be produced in any type of material, decorated on request, and even delivered in a made-to-measure pouch.

DSM-Firmenich acquires remaining DSM shares 

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The editorial staff
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dsm-firmenich

The DSM-Firmenich Group, the result of the merger of Firmenich and DSM in 2023, has completed the voluntary buyout offer for the DSM shares still in circulation. 

Some 4.16 million shares, representing approximately 2.4 % of the shares, were tendered to the company under this voluntary tender offer. The company now holds approximately 98.5 % of the shares.

The remaining shares will be bought back through the regulatory buy-back procedure initiated with the Companies Chamber of the Amsterdam Court of Appeal.

L'Oréal signs worldwide licensing agreement with Miu Miu

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The editorial staff
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L'Oréal

Miu Miu joins the L'Oréal Luxe division. L'Oréal Groupe and Prada S.p.A have announced the signing of a long-term, worldwide licensing agreement for the creation, development and distribution of Miu Miu brand luxury beauty products. 

Part of the Milan-based Prada group, with which the L'Oréal group already collaborates, the brand launched in 1993 by Miuccia Prada stands out for its bold risk-taking and its instinct for cultural evolutions and contemporary fashion trends. 

Cyril Chapuy, President of L'Oréal Luxe, comments: "In recent years, we have successfully established a solid partnership with the Prada teams. Today, we are delighted to welcome Miu Miu to develop the exceptional potential of the brand's beauty facet. With its singular positioning, driven by its boundless and experimental creative essence, Miu Miu will perfectly complement L'Oréal Luxe's portfolio of iconic brands, reinforcing its position as the world's leading fragrance company."

"We are delighted to announce this partnership with a leading beauty player such as L'Oréal. This new chapter will support the brand's growth and help unleash Miu Miu's full potential in this universe."says Miu Miu CEO Benedetta Petruzzo.

The agreement will come into force following regulatory approvals.

Skincare make-up products

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The editorial staff
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Glowy Blur Stick - Schwan

German cosmetics manufacturer Schwan Cosmetics will be presenting its new Glow Stick at MakeUp in LosAngeles, February 14-15, 2024.

Both corrector and illuminator, Glowy Blur Stick is a versatile make-up product with active skincare ingredients. The stick evens out skin tone, giving it a natural, rosy appearance for a healthy, luminous complexion. Its formulation includes hydrasalinol, ginger, salicornia, limnanthe seed oil and many other moisturizing and skin-protecting components. Its lightweight, serum-like vegan formula is a blend of skin care ingredients, jojoba and cocoa butter that help the product glide onto the skin and integrate seamlessly.

Glow Stick is a product that can be applied directly to the skin without the need for make-up tools. For a soft look, the product can be blended with a finger.

This product is a response to studies indicating that consumers want to see more active skincare ingredients in cosmetics, as well as to the strongly growing trend towards multi-purpose make-up, and the link between mind-body wellness and beauty routines. 

The stick is one of the expressions of Schwan Cosmetics' new Color & Care strategy, which offers the latest fashionable looks while providing make-up wearers with proven skincare benefits in products for the face, lips, eyes and eyebrows," says the company.

"The pandemic has sparked a huge upsurge in interest in skincare. While the scientifically proven benefits of skincare have mainly focused on skincare products such as moisturizers and serums, the demand for skincare ingredients in make-up has skyrocketed. Hence our strategy to develop our Color & Care range".explains Stefanie Strittmatter, Director Global Category Management LIP at Schwan Cosmetics.

The Power Up Your Pout lip pencil, also part of Schwan Cosmetics' new Color & Care range, was named a finalist in the MakeUp in Los Angeles "IT Awards". This lip pencil features interchangeable cartridges containing a formula infused with peptides and jojoba oil. It was recently launched by the company to plump, define and fill lips.

"With our Color & Care strategy, we want to demonstrate that with a sound scientific approach and advanced skincare ingredients, color cosmetics can achieve visible skincare results with the same level of effectiveness as skincare products themselves. The nomination of Power Up Your Pout is a great recognition of our efforts to provide the highest quality products that remain at the forefront of the latest trends."concludes Stefanie Strittmatter.

Rissmann targets the US market and continues to grow

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The editorial staff
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RISSMANN - laser cutting and engraving technology - FSC paper and cardboard - outstanding packaging - beauty - cosmetics - Wine & spirits 2

German company Rissmann creates, develops and manufactures exceptional paper packaging. The company has appointed Laura Carey as Vice President of Sales and Development at Rissmann Inc, New Jersey. 

site-industries-cosmetiques Rissman, a woman in a black blazer, standing in front of a shelf in the American market.

Laura Carey's arrival is in line with the continued global expansion strategy of Nuremberg-based Rissmann. With over 15 years' significant experience in the world of beauty and hygiene packaging, Laura Carey plays a central role in the deployment of Rissmann's growth strategy in the United States. Working closely with CEO Sophie Ivens, she will drive the development of secondary and gift packaging sales for luxury and premium brands.

Having sales and production offices on three continents - North America, Asia and Europe - is at the heart of the company's development strategy. The opening of its New Jersey office dates from July 2023. 

The company's business is in good health.  "Growth has been particularly strong from 2019 to 2023, to the point of almost doubling our sales.says Sophie Ivens. I'm approaching 2024 with cautious optimism, and I'm cultivating our ability to adapt! We are pursuing our strategy of regionalizing production, more or less rapidly depending on the geopolitical and health factors that are causing a degree of instability. Our values remain agility, responsibility, innovation, solidarity and excellence. We design single-material packaging, in FSC-certified paper and cardboard for 98% of our production, with clever closure and fastening systems, without magnets, without plastic. And if there is plastic, usually as an option, as with the Enby display case, for example, then it's PET PCW, sourced from the oceans. Our models are also designed to minimize transport and storage volumes.

In terms of technology, Rissmann has developed a laser engraving and cutting process which, according to the brand, enables unlimited creativity, through color nuances without the addition of ink and lace effects. The two technologies interact to create colorful products and 3D volumes by superimposing several layers of paper. The rendering - colors, volumes and cut-outs - depends on the papers used and the depth of the engraving.

Paris 2024: licensed fragrance products

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The editorial staff
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TRIO BOUGIES - Esteban Paris Parfums JO

A French perfume designer and manufacturer for over 40 years, Estéban Paris Parfums develops scented worlds for the home. 

"It is with great pride that I announce that Estéban is one of the French companies that will be creating and developing official licensed products for Paris 2024. Our exclusive collection will soon be available and will carry the colors of French expertise and perfumery loud and clear".says Laurent Pichon, General Manager of Estéban Paris Parfums. And he promises "French 100%, beautiful materials and scented objects that are as useful and long-lasting as they are pleasant."

Estéban Paris Parfums is launching its official Paris 2024 licensed product collection "Les Essentiels": candles, fans, scented bookmarks and perfume pouches produced with a commitment to nature and made in France.

Available in large (180g) and small (70g) formats, our scented candles are made from 100 % vegetable wax, mainly from European rapeseed grown without GMOs or palm oil, with a cotton wick. The 180g format is infinitely refillable, using the brand's candle refills, for an economical and sensible gesture. Their exclusive design: an arch, symbol of victory and a link between nations, is available in 3 colors: opera blue, matisse yellow and passion red, corresponding to each fragrance.

Guérande Cosmétiques: a wave of eco-responsible commitments

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The editorial staff
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Refill - Guérandes Cosmétiques

Guérande Cosmétiques, which bills itself as the first organic thalassic brand, offers a range of products developed from active ingredients harvested from the salt marshes of the Guérande peninsula and the mineral and plant riches of the oceans. The company, which is part of the Laboratoire Science et Nature, is raising its standards in terms of eco-responsibility, and has announced six key measures for 2024.

Guérande Cosmétiques plans to introduce refills for its six jar-packed skincare products. This first measure was implemented in January 2024 with the launch of two refillable products: Crème confort jeunesse and Soin fondant jeunesse by Guérande Cosmétiques. On her first purchase, the customer acquires an empty jar and a refill, which she can then refill once she has finished. According to the company, this results in 94 % less plastic being used as soon as the refill is purchased. 

Improving the recyclability of packaging is also one of the resolutions taken. Guérande Cosmétiques is no longer using certain elements that interfere with the optical scanners at sorting centers, resulting in packaging being excluded from recycling.

The company also intends to do away with tube sleeves. In addition, the adoption of drawn glass for serums packaged in glass bottles reduces the amount of material used in bottle manufacture: a reduction of 75 % of glass compared to the current solution, according to Guérande Cosmétiques.

Another option is to use recycled plastic in packaging. For example, the tube of Eaux-mères Neoserum incorporates 20 % of recycled plastic. The tube of Gommage minéralisant contains 21% of recycled plastic, while the tube of Gommage fondant contains 19 %.

Last but not least, Guérande Cosmétiques aims to offer its products in 100 % recyclable packaging, for example, by dispensing with multi-material packaging.

To meet these commitments, the company had to face up to a number of technical challenges. For example, to ensure the stability and shelf life of refill creams, a white lid had to be added to the jar in which the refill was placed. For their part, serums packaged in stretched glass bottles underwent logistics tests to ensure their resistance to transport.

In terms of marketing, with much less space to communicate, the brand limits itself to regulatory information. To compensate for the reduced marketing space on packaging, a QR code provides access to useful information.

"Another challenge lies in being a forerunner and upsetting consumer habits, but the values are strong for the brand, which is willing to take the risk."says Guérande Cosmétiques.

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