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Groupe GM and Éditions de Parfum Frédéric Malle: a line of eco-friendly home products

Hotel room visual

Groupe GM, a global specialist in sustainable hospitality products, has announced the launch of its second hospitality line in collaboration with Éditions de Parfum Frédéric Malle, following the successful launch of the Eau de Magnolia hotel line. This new line highlights another famous fragrance: Cologne Indélébile, created by renowned nose Dominique Ropion.

Creating aromatic excellence

Frédérique Malle, emblematic French perfume expert, represents the third generation of perfume specialists in her family. Her grandfather, Serge Heftler-Louiche, founded Parfums Christian Dior, before passing on his artistic direction to Frédéric's mother. 

Like a publisher working with authors, Frédéric Malle helps perfumers give the best of themselves, enabling them to create exceptional fragrances that will become tomorrow's classics.

A celebrated perfectionist and true inventor, Dominique Ropion often balances excessive doses of powerful ingredients with more subtle, meticulously measured accords, until the composition stands on its own. The olfactory formulation of the Cologne Indélébile line is based on white musk, known to have two facets: one pure, the other tempting. Accentuating its binary character produces a fragrance both innocent and irresistible, divided between an Eau de Cologne accord of lemon, bergamot and orange blossom, set against a seductive ocean of white musk.

The hotel line

Inspired by the Cologne Indélébile fragrance, the new hotel line has the same white musk base, offering a new olfactory experience for hotel guests.

Its chic white design comes in a variety of formats. These include 50 ml white aluminum tubes for shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and bubble bath. Scented, pleated hand and body soaps, available in 40 g and RSPO-MB certified, complete the line, ensuring a consistent, elegant aesthetic for the entire collection.

As part of the GM Group's "Care About Earth" program, large-format dispensers are also available, such as the Ecofill, an innovative, secure dispenser that is refillable and 100 % traceable.

Ecofill Cologne Indélébile is made of aluminum, and the refill pouches for shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and hand soap are recyclable, with a capacity of 300 ml and containing just 8 g of plastic. 

The Ecofill dispenser prevents bacterial contamination thanks to sealed refill pouches that also guarantee product origin, quality and traceability. Wall brackets in stainless steel or recyclable black or white ABS plastic can be fixed to the wall with two screws or double-sided adhesive tape for secure installation of the dispenser.

The range also includes the Ghost 400 ml dispenser, with its ingenious ecological design, made from sugar cane. This dispenser is designed for a variety of products such as shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and hand soap. As its name suggests, Ghost is mounted on a concealed rail that gives the impression that the product is levitating.

Care About Earth

Strictly respecting the principles of Groupe GM's "Care About Earth" program, the Cologne Indélébile line is part of an approach designed to minimize the impact of products on the environment, encourage sustainable practices and preserve our planet for future generations. As a supplier of eco-responsible hospitality products, Groupe GM has chosen to give preference to plant-based materials, recycled plastic and 100 % renewable raw materials.

Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said: "We are delighted to continue this fruitful collaboration with Les Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and to add more eco-friendly hospitality products to this luxury line. Like Frédéric Malle's vision, Groupe GM is relentlessly committed to creativity, quality and innovation. This line, which fully reflects our core values, will enable hotels around the world to pamper their guests with fragranced hospitality products derived from expert craftsmanship."

At Chanel's instigation, Pochet reduces its CO2 emissions thanks to a solution developed by a start-up company

Pochet - Chanel n°5 - Reburning the bottle

Glassmaker Pochet, which recently celebrated its 400th anniversary, controls all its energy consumption (gas, water, electricity) via a solution developed by Metron. This digitalized management system enables the company to reduce its carbon footprint, as well as that of its customers, including Chanel, the company behind the project. 

The Pochet Group and Chanel share a commitment to reducing the carbon footprint of perfume bottle and skincare jar manufacturing. Chanel has initiated a collaboration between the Pochet Group, its supplier of high-quality perfume bottles and skincare jars, and Metron, a French cleantech company specializing in digital energy-efficiency solutions to decarbonize industry. 

This collaboration between three players committed to energy management has enabled Chanel to reduce emissions from its value chain (scope 3), in line with its "Chanel Mission 1.5°" climate commitment program. 

The Pochet group, for its part, has reduced energy consumption by 27 % for its gas-fired annealers, important machines in the production of glass bottles.

The initiative benefits all Pochet Group customers as part of its ambitious decarbonization plan defined in 2021. The first French glassmaker to equip itself with an electric furnace technology for luxury bottles, the group will be operating this equipment by the end of 2024. Electric melting technologies will make it possible to produce glass that is largely carbon-free, while retaining the brilliance and transparency that are the hallmarks of Pochet glass.

The decarbonization plan also includes more than 40 projects covering 91 % of the Pochet Group's current CO2 emissions. These will be halved by 2033.

The Metron solution was tested at Guimerville, in the Seine-Maritime region, at the Pochet group's glass plant, an industrial site specializing in the manufacture of glass bottles and jars for the luxury goods industry. The plant employs some 1,600 people and produces a million bottles a day, including Chanel perfume bottles. Thanks to hundreds of data sensors throughout the production chain, Metron's real-time energy visualization solution makes it possible to measure, standardize and optimize energy consumption during the production of each bottle/pot. Conclusive experiment. 

The solution is now being deployed at Pochet's seven other French industrial sites. This enables the group to control its energy performance down to the very last bottle, and deliver to luxury brands a product whose environmental quality is optimized for each item. 

Drawing on glassmaking expertise dating back to 1623, the Pochet Group is constantly innovating to improve and digitalize its centuries-old industrial processes. "This collaboration aims to continue the digitalization of the Pochet Group and to offer our customers high-quality products for sustainable beauty," says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval Operations Manager.

This collaboration between a world-renowned luxury house, an industrial group that produces in France and a cleantech startup, winner of French Tech 2030, demonstrates the ability of French industry to work together to offer industrial innovations that benefit the environment. Julien Garry, General Manager of Purchasing, Development and Innovation at Chanel comments: " This initiative by Chanel, the Pochet Group and Metron benefits the entire ecosystem and contributes to the environmental transition of the luxury goods industry. It's by measuring precisely that we can make lasting improvements.

Vincent Sciandra, Metron CEO, concludes: " We are proud to play our part in making the decarbonization of industrial processes a competitive lever for the luxury and beauty industry, while respecting the quality and authenticity of products that are emblematic of French know-how. This collaboration highlights the importance of carbon traceability for industrial products, which is emerging as a growing need in tomorrow's industry. "

Solabia Group wins award in Milan

Solabia

With its longevity-boosting Essenc'Age active ingredient, the Solabia group won a prestigious Wise Ingredient Award at the Making Cosmetics Award held in Milan on November 22, 2023. 

Essenc'Age is a pure 100 % powder composed of fucoidans, low molecular weight (<30kDa) sulfated polysaccharides obtained from a concentrated and purified aqueous extract of brown seaweed. Ascophyllum nodosum. Its action targets the key mechanisms of cellular senescence: according to Solabia, "Essenc'Age positively influences longevity to delay programmed aging and prevent induced aging." 

Essenc'Age helps correct and prevent the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging. According to Solabia, it improves the skin's elasticity and stretchability for an anti-fatigue effect; it moisturizes and smoothes, from 28 days, overall facial wrinkles for a visibly younger appearance, in both men and women; it rejuvenates the look of men, while it refreshes and evens out the complexion of women. Finally, by improving the structure of the micro-relief on the surface, it tends to resynchronize the skin's physiological age with its biological age. 

"The combination of these anti-aging and anti-fatigue properties makes Essenc'Age an active ingredient capable of improving the perception of oneself and one's image in the mirror, to age well, with serenity!"says the Solabia Group.

In order to use exceptional ingredients, Solabia travels far from industrial and agricultural activities. On the island of Ouessant in Brittany, 20 km off the Atlantic coast, Salobia harvests the brown algae Ascophylle des Roches, free from pollution.

On the island of Ouessant, Ascophyllum nodosumThis certified organic seaweed is meticulously harvested by hand from the rocks at the time of the tide, in accordance with best practices designed to protect the island's ecology.

Ouessant, classified by Unesco as a Biosphere Reserve of the Mer d'Iroise for its unique ecosystem, is a windswept island with a constant water temperature all year round. 

Burberry Beauty wins over customers with Pure Trade

Burberry - Pure Trade

A cardboard box dressed in FSC paper was designed for Burberry Beauty by Pure Trade, containing 180 imitation tortoiseshell acetate letters, coordinated with the natural tortoiseshell perfume bottle stoppers, and 90 gold-plated metal fastening rings. The charms are designed to personalize in-store customer bags with their initials.

Pure Trade's work for Burberry includes:

  • A metal mirror with an imitation scale back (acetate), emblematic of the brand.
  • An acetate comb in imitation tortoiseshell. The logo is hot-stamped, and a recycled cotton case with flap featuring the twill pattern of Burberry trench coats is supplied.
  • A lipstick case in mirrored material, made mobile with a gold-tone metal snap hook, featuring a black screen-printed logo and a gold-tone press stud.
  • A 30 x 30 cm facial towel made in Europe from beige 100 % cotton terry, with a tone-on-tone embroidered logo. Presented in a silver mirrored paper pouch embossed with the tone-on-tone monogram and embellished with the gold hot-stamped logo.

Anti-stress mineral concentrate for sublimated skin  

MYOLINE_illustration

Silab is the creator of Myoline, a natural relaxing active ingredient derived from the mineral richness of watercress. Its "botox-like", well-being-boosting effect makes it an ideal solution for skin under psychological stress.

Skin: a reflection of emotions

As a mirror of our emotional state, the skin is particularly affected by stress. This is evidenced by the premature emergence of expression lines and a dull complexion when facial muscles tense up and skin-level stress mediators are secreted.

Silab has chosen to harness the mineral power of watercress to target the behavioral and biological consequences of stress.

A botox-like mineral elixir for skin well-being

Myoline has a muscle relaxant action in vitro by acting on the neuro-muscular junction. According to Silab, this effectiveness translates into in vivo through a "botox-like" effect. Silab reports that in just five days, the first expression lines of young skin are smoothed out and the wrinkles of mature skin are softened, with an effect comparable to that obtained with a retouched photo ("soft focus" effect).

According to Silab, Myoline also influences the secretion of well-being mediators: skin oxytocin and endocannabinoid pathways are stimulated to improve skin homeostasis. The volunteers' perception of stress is reduced, and their skin quality is improved: barrier function is restored, hydration is increased and complexion radiance is enhanced. 

Local, secure supplies

Silab is part of an upcycling approach, valorizing watercress of quality not selected for the food sector, favoring local, traced, secure and environmentally-friendly sourcing. The raw material is authenticated using the barcoding molecular.

In addition, to control the quality of the watercress and diversify the activities of the farmer in charge of production, Silab has undertaken to support the watercress farm in the construction of an industrial dryer.

Myoline is a patented active ingredient recommended at a dose of 0.5 to 2.0 %. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It respects biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 99.2 % (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Hauts-de-France: first stop on Cosmetic Valley's Tour de France

Helioscreen Cosmetic Sciences- Hauts de France-Cosmetic Valley

At the end of November, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster launched a tour of France's regions, with Hauts-de-France as the first stopover.

Hauts-de-France is France's leading cosmetics exporting region. The region attracts some of the biggest names in the sector, including LVMH, L'Oréal, Chanel, Colgate Palmolive and Unilever.

The industrial wealth of the Hauts-de-France region is reflected not only in the production sites of major groups, but also in the diversity of companies contributing to every stage of the process: from mold makers to glassmakers (Pochet, Verescence, Stoelzle), plastics manufacturers (Pijaplast, Qualipac, etc.), raw material suppliers (Roquette, Aiglon, etc.), shapers (Superga, Sarbec, Alkos, etc.) and packaging and logistics companies.

Research and innovation are also very much in evidence. The Université d'Artois, involved with Cosmetic Valley, is actively participating in accredited projects linked to plant-based chemistry. Links with institutions such as UTC Compiègne, Escom and the University of Lille will further stimulate innovation in the sector.

Making contacts

During this first leg of its tour, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster got closer to its members through company visits. These meetings enabled players such as Labosphère, Superga Beauty, Aiglon, HelioScreen and Pijaplast to showcase their innovative projects and explore the support opportunities offered by Cosmetic Valley.

The visit to Hauts-de-France ended on November 24 with a network event, the "Cosmetic Contact", a unique meeting between manufacturers, public laboratories and training organizations from across the perfumery-cosmetics sector. Cosmetic Valley's regional stops are also aimed at meeting potential local partners. 

"This first step in the Hauts-de-France region marks the beginning of a strengthened dialogue between Cosmetic Valley, its members and key regional players. We are convinced that this fruitful collaboration will further stimulate innovation, research and development in the regional cosmetics industry".said Soline Godet, Cosmetic Valley Deputy Managing Director, Businesses and Territories. 


Hauts-de-France in figures

  • 1st exporting region in 2022: €6.4 billion
  • 338 establishments, including 164 industrial sites and 174 retail outlets.
  • Four L'Oréal sites, two Chanel sites, two LVMH sites, one Colgate/Palmolive site, one Unilever site.
  • 16,790 jobs: 47 % with suppliers and subcontractors (7,914 employees), 26.5% with brands (4,445 employees), 26.4% in retail (4,431 employees).

Photo:
Helioscreen Cosmetic Sciences in Creil, a company specializing in in vitro sun testing since 1999.

L'Oréal acquires Danish company Lactobio, specialist in precision probiotics

Lactobio - L'Oréal

L'Oréal has announced the completion of the acquisition of Lactobio, a leading Danish company specializing in probiotics and microbiome research. Founded in 2017 and based in Copenhagen, this company enables L'Oréal to reinforce two decades of advanced research on the microbiome, deepen its knowledge of microorganisms living on the skin's surface and consolidate its leadership in this field. With Lactobio's expertise in the microbiome and its substantial portfolio of patents, new prospects for the development of safe and effective live bacteria-based cosmetic solutions are now possible.

Søren Kjærulff, Ph.D. and Charlotte Vedel, Ph.D., the founders of Lactobio, have developed a unique and exclusive platform for exploring the microbiome, as well as a screening method for selecting the most effective and safest strains. These precision probiotics, created from a vast biobank of lactobacillus bacteria, will be used to develop formulations for topical applications based on living bacteria. The ambition is to offer skin and hair benefits inspired by nature.

Anne Colonna, International General Manager of Advanced Research at L'Oréal, said: "The integration of Lactobio into our advanced research is highly complementary to L'Oréal's scientific and technological advances. The group's expertise combined with Lactobio's optimal formulations, based on living ingredients, will considerably strengthen and accelerate our microbiome research dedicated to beauty. By joining forces, we aim to develop a new generation of cosmetics that will incorporate cutting-edge innovations to achieve precision probiotic and postbiotic products with unprecedented levels of performance."

Søren Kjærulff, founder and scientific director of Lactobio, added: "Denmark has a long history of innovation in living microorganisms applied to food, agriculture and health, and it was against this backdrop that we came up with the idea of creating Lactobio. I'm incredibly proud of what our team has achieved, and excited about what the future holds for us within the L'Oréal group, where together we can apply microbiome research to new areas of cosmetic innovation serving women and men around the world."

Cosmetotest 2024 will take place on May 29 and 30, 2024 at ENS-Lyon.

Cosmetotest 2024

Organized by Skinobs and Cosmet'in Lyon, the Cosmetotest symposium, dedicated to scientific and technological advances in preclinical and clinical evaluation, enables cosmeticians from all over the world to listen to academic and applied conferences and interact with participants, meet testing partners, exhibitors, CROs and instrumentation manufacturers, and take part in equipment demonstrations.

Its second edition took place from May 24 to 26, 2023. Some 230 participants, 52 speakers and 30 exhibitors contributed to its success. 

Cosmetotest is unanimously recognized by specialists in the profession for its quality and excellent scientific standards, as well as for being a convivial and professional forum for exchange. In 2023, an exceptional third day has been added in honor of the 20th anniversary of SF2iC, the French-speaking skin imaging and engineering society chaired by Pr Hassan Zahouani.

"In practical terms, we're delighted that in 2024 we'll be returning to the École nationale supérieure de Gerland and its beautiful auditorium and meeting space, and we'll be returning to a two-day format. What's interesting is that the three themes for each of the two days of the symposium are renewed each year, to offer an up-to-date and varied overview".says Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs.

A program accredited by Cosmetic Valley to contribute to the development of Mahoran cosmetopoeia

Cosmetic Valley - Mayotte

Accompanied by the Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley, the French Minister for Overseas France, Philippe Vigier, made official on November 29, 2023 the state funding of the Mayotte integrated innovation cluster (Piom - France 2030). This program, accredited by Cosmetic Valley, will contribute, among other things, to the development of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte.

Initiated in 2020 by the Criobe (UAR3278 - EPHE-PSL-CNRS-UPVD) with the support of the Mayotte department, the Mayotte Integrated Innovation Cluster (PI2M) is set to accelerate its development with the announcement of €1.5 million in state funding as part of the France 2030 program, centralized by the Mayotte Development and Innovation Agency (Adim). 

The fruit of a public-private partnership involving the Criobe, via the University of Perpignan (UPVD), companies in the perfume and cosmetics sector, and Cosmetic Valley in mainland France, the PI2M aims to develop knowledge of Mauritian cosmetopoeia and encourage the emergence of sustainable industries. 

Numerous initiatives have already been launched around vanilla and ylang ylang. Other resources of interest for cosmetics are currently being studied through research projects. The funding granted by France 2030 will enable us to reinforce the equipment available at the Pôle d'Excellence Rurale for the extraction and characterization of ingredients of interest. It will also enable the implementation of research and development programs on local terrestrial and marine biodiversity, to support the development of these industries.

Christophe Masson said: "Cosmetopoeia represents a tremendous opportunity for development and outreach in the French overseas territories. I'm delighted by the collective mobilization of the Maoran players in the PI2M project, and the positive energy it has generated. By developing knowledge of local cosmetopoeia and speeding up the establishment of sustainable industries with "made in France" quality and standards, the department will be able to accelerate its growth and strengthen its international appeal."

Philippe Vigier said: "I'm delighted to have been able to discover, alongside Cosmetic Valley Managing Director Christophe Masson, the great potential of medicinal and aromatic plants and the blue economy. Here in Mayotte, the cosmetopoeia represents immense potential for economic development, value creation, job creation, training and innovation. This project is a perfect illustration of the attractiveness of the French overseas territories and France's commitment to sustainable innovation.

Cosmetopoeia is to cosmetics what pharmacopoeia is to pharmacy

Cosmetopoeia is an inventory of natural resources and their traditional uses for the care and well-being of skin and hair. A shared history that unites people and their environment.

Cosmetic Valley is convinced that cosmetopoeia represents a natural and cultural heritage for the men and women of every region of the world, which needs to be identified, studied and preserved as a lever for safeguarding biodiversity, raising public awareness and promoting sustainable economic development.

"Our mission is to make every country and every region aware of the need to set up collective dynamics around the Cosmetopoeia. With the support of the French cosmetics industry, we are combating the erosion of oral traditions, supporting research and education programs, and backing local initiatives. In this way, we contribute to the preservation of biodiversity linked to traditional cosmetic uses".says Cosmetic Valley.

Photo
From left to right: Thierry Suquet, Prefect of Mayotte; Christophe Masson, CEO of Cosmetic Valley; Rosette Vitta, President of Adim, Ben Issa Ousseni, President of the Mayotte Departmental Council; Philippe Vigier, Minister for Overseas France; Oumaynou Daroueche, doctoral student on Moroccan cosmetopoeia; Fahoullia Mohamadi, delegate for research and innovation at the Mayotte education authority.

EA Pharma continues its international expansion with the acquisition of Groupe W and announces the creation of Olyos Group

site-industries-cosmetiques An international acquisition by EA Pharma featuring a group of bottles gracefully positioned next to a picturesque waterfall.

Expert in nutrition & natural health, EA Pharma announces the acquisition of W Group, a specialist in dietary supplements in the United States, creating the global Olyos Group structure. This marks the start of a new phase in the Group's international development, as it enters the world's #1 market for dietary supplements.

Since 1948, when the group's main brand Laboratoire des Granions was created, EA Pharma has been offering natural health solutions for the well-being of all, including medicines, food supplements, medical devices and cosmetics. According to the company, with the strongest growth (+ 32%) of the top 10 food supplement laboratories in France in pharmacies and parapharmacies over 20232 EA Pharma is a market leader in oligotherapy, collagen, sports nutrition and dietary supplements for muscle and joint comfort.

As of 2020, the French laboratory is initiating an in-depth transformation, focusing on three strategic axes: strengthening partnerships with pharmacists, based on the training of pharmacy teams and the visibility of its brands in pharmacies; an ambitious innovation policy aimed at strengthening its existing ranges and penetrating new market segments (nutricosmetics, children, vitality & immunity); and the development of e-commerce in Europe and China. In addition, three business acquisitions have strengthened these two verticals (pharmacies and e-commerce): Labcatal (France) in 2020, Drasanvi (Spain) in 2021 and Stardea (Italy) in 2022.

Today, EA Pharma is announcing the acquisition of W Group, a specialist in dietary supplements founded in the United States in 2020, and the creation of a global structure, called Olyos, bringing together the four international companies (EA Pharma, Drasanvi, Stardea and W Group).

"We are delighted with this acquisition, which opens up new prospects for us in the US market by continuing to develop the W Group brands but also by launching some of our historic brands in this market."says CEO Thierry Verne.

After an initial phase of consolidation at European level in three of the four largest markets for dietary supplements in the European Union (Italy, France, Spain), and a second phase of international expansion characterized by strong growth in South America and China, the Olyos Group naturally turned its attention to the United States, the world's leading market for dietary supplements, "with an estimated size of 50 billion $, a significant proportion of which is via e-commerce, facilitating an accelerated time-to-market".says assistant general manager Jonathan Bienfait.

More than ten Granions references have already been made available to consumers in the United States, thanks in particular to the expertise of the W teams in e-commerce. This agility is in line with the Olyos Group's credo: We are committed to "pooling and synergies upstream, for purchasing and production (where economies of scale are achieved), and agility downstream, to meet the expectations of our customers, pharmacists&". "explains Thierry Verne. "The Olyos Group develops innovative products based on high-quality active ingredients, plants, minerals, vitamins and amino acids, then markets them worldwide under brands that make sense and resonate with consumers in every country. "adds the CEO.

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