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Elate Beauty: kindness wrapped in wood

site-industries-cosmetiques Four different types of foundation on a marble table (Draft)

Quadpack creates a range of reusable and recyclable packaging with wooden components for North American company Elate Beauty.

North American brand Elate Beauty believes that beauty should be kind to people, animals and the planet. Its cosmetics range is vegan and cruelty-free, and over 95 % of its packaging is reusable, recyclable or plantable. All beautifully decorated with sustainable wood. The company is part of the growing community of B Corp companies, a certification awarded to companies meeting societal and environmental requirements. So there was synergy with its new packaging supplier Quadpack, also a B Corp company with offices in Dallas, Texas.

Quadpack has designed the packaging for its Prep Priming serum and Refresh foundation. Both packs are refillable, recyclable and feature caps and components made from ash wood from sustainably managed forests. Designed and manufactured at the Quadpack Wood factory in Spain, they fit perfectly with Elate's message of "kindness".

Prep, Elate's smoothing make-up base, is housed in Quadpack's 30 ml Skin-Up glass bottle with wooden neck, featuring a teat dropper for targeted application. Elate's best-selling Refresh liquid foundation is also packaged in a 30-ml Skin-Up glass bottle, dispensed by a practical push-button dropper. The frosted effect, use of color and silk-screening add the finishing touch to this collection.

Customers can clean and reuse pumps and droppers, and purchase refills separately. At end-of-life, droppers and bottles can be classified as household waste or returned for responsible end-of-life. Thanks to Elate's partnership with the non-profit recycling collective Pact, all its packaging can be returned for recycling, by post or at any of its outlets in North America.

L'Oréal creates an endowment fund for the climate emergency

site-industries-cosmetiques A large glacier with flowing water.

The L'Oréal group has announced the creation of a new 15 million euro fund to build the resilience of vulnerable populations in the face of climate-related disasters. This "Climate Emergency Fund" will support communities in the most exposed areas by enabling specialized partner organizations to assist populations in preventing and rebuilding in the face of such events.

Climate-related disasters are estimated to have increased fivefold over the past 50 years1. Today, nearly three billion people live in high-risk areas, and this figure could rise to four billion by 2050.2. The L'Oréal Climate Emergency Fund will help vulnerable populations through partnerships with local organizations and international NGOs specializing in disaster relief. It builds on L'Oréal's historic commitment to tackling ever-increasing humanitarian and environmental challenges, and follows on from other initiatives, such as the "L'Oréal Fund for the Regeneration of Nature", the "Circular Innovation Fund" and the "L'Oréal Fund for Women", bringing the group's total investment to over 200 million euros.

"As a global industry leader, L'Oréal has a duty to respond to the most pressing environmental and social needs, said Alexandra Palt, Managing Director - Corporate Social Responsibility and L'Oréal Foundation. The climate crisis we are facing requires urgent global action and mobilization, at all levels and on all fronts. With this new L'Oréal Climate Emergency Fund, we are reinforcing our commitment to accompany vulnerable communities towards greater resilience, in collaboration with organizations that are deploying innovative solutions on the ground."

The fund will focus on two types of action: "prevention", to help minimize the impact of climate-related disasters before they occur through planning and early warning systems; and "reconstruction", to restore essential infrastructure and vital services such as healthcare, housing and access to food and water after such disasters. The first two beneficiaries of the L'Oréal Climate Emergency Fund are The Solutions Project, a US-based non-profit organization, and Start Network, a global alliance of more than 80 local, national and international NGOs, which work on the front line to provide rapid and effective responses to prevent and manage humanitarian crises.

"While the climate crisis is global in nature, it is clear that some communities are much more at risk from short-term climate disasters, the impacts of which must be mitigated to prevent them becoming human catastrophes, said Christina Bennett, CEO of Start Network. In partnership with L'Oréal and local organizations that work closely with their communities, we will support people exposed to this type of risk, so that they can prepare and protect themselves, with the help of local teams. These teams know their situation inside out, and have the best expertise to ensure that affected populations recover more quickly after a disaster."

1. World Meteorological Organization (2021), WMO Atlas of Mortality and Economic Loss from Extreme Weather, Climate and Water Events, 1970-2019 (WMO-No. 1267).

2. Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC, 2021), Contribution of Working Group II to the Sixth Assessment Report: Headline Statements from the Summary for Policymakers.

BeautyMix becomes MyCosmetik

site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of essential oils and a diffuser.

Nelly Pitt, founder of BeautyMix and a regular on M6's "Qui veut être mon associé?

Thanks to this merger, BeautyMix has chosen to become MyCosmetik, offering a global and holistic approach to natural well-being, through :

  • A wide range of over 1,000 products: certified organic ingredients, as well as finished products, customizable bases, phyto and aromatherapy (the brand's best-sellers include the customizable anti-aging serum, Sommeil dietary supplements and Roll On essential oils). 
  • A clever robot that has become one of the iconic products making it easy to create homemade cosmetics at any level.  
  • Accessories, books, advice and 140 recipes available free of charge: the first open source for beauty.

MyCosmetik is also an extensive distribution network, an in-house French supply chain and a new production line. Last but not least, BeautyMix and MyCosmetik have expanded their team of experts to more than twenty people.

"This new page is a great milestone for BeautyMix, which becomes MyCosmetik, and a wonderful opportunity to continue our development, and the democratization of other consumption models. We're retaining real know-how and motivated teams, and together we're proposing a natural consumer alternative, enabling us to get back to basics, to what really counts and works, to what makes sense for the beauty and well-being of the whole family".explains Nelly Pitt, founder of BeautyMix.

For BeautyMix: an unprecedented acquisition at the heart of the company's development

From the outset, BeautyMix's mission has been to enable as many people as possible to start making their own homemade cosmetics with ease, thanks to a selection of natural ingredients, a clever robot and a free step-by-step application.  

With the acquisition of MyCosmetik, BeautyMix is now able to offer a comprehensive range of wellness products, including aromatherapy and phytotherapy, rather than just cosmetics, something that the BeautyMix community has been calling for for some time.

The experts in home cosmetics are introducing a new approach: 

  • offer the possibility of creating your own beauty products at home, with more ingredients and recipes,
  • or use neutral bases that can be personalized with active ingredients for targeted, effective care, 
  • or use organic finished products.

"MyCosmetik, which now incorporates the experience and expertise of BeautyMix, is aimed at a wider target audience. All consumers, whether connoisseurs or beginners in the field of homemade cosmetics, enthusiasts of homemade products as a whole or those who want to take the plunge, can find on our site the ingredients and the robot that make life easier, recipes and advice in open source... And this acquisition also enables us to be more accessible in terms of price! "continues Nelly Pitt.

For MyCosmetik: a merger that opens a new chapter in its history

MyCosmetik, launched in 2011, had one goal: to get back to basics, to what really counts and works, to what makes sense for beauty and well-being, by doing away with all the superfluous and focusing on a single point: effectiveness.

In difficulty since the opening of physical stores at a time when the Covid epidemic was taking hold in France, MyCosmetik is continuing its Made In France adventure thanks to its takeover by BeautyMix, and retaining jobs (eight people are joining the BeautyMix team, already made up of 14 employees).

MyCosmetik also maintains its supply chain in the Rhône-Alpes region, relaunches the brand under the MyCosmetik name, enriches its offering with the BeautyMix robot and free mobile application, and expands its product range with new active ingredients.

MyCosmetik is becoming the brand for natural skincare and well-being essentials, giving consumers back the power to make the right choice. Numerous projects are already in the pipeline.

Reaffirmed international ambitions 

Already distributed in Belgium, Switzerland, Luxembourg and Germany, BeautyMix, which became MyCosmetik on September 15, 2023, aims to pursue its international development. Thanks to the MyCosmetik distribution network, and in particular its presence on the giant Amazon, BeautyMix is aiming to expand across the Atlantic.

Developing your logistics strategy

In 2022, BeautyMix entrusted the management of its logistics strategy for the preparation and dispatch of orders to its French and international customers to a player based in the Paris region. From now on, all logistics management will be handled by MyCosmetik.

Integration of the MyCosmetik catalog into the mobile application

The full range of MyCosmetik products has been integrated into the BeautyMix mobile application, expanding the options available for personalized cosmetic creations.

Developing the distribution network

The brand now benefits from 550 BeautyMix points of sale, 174 Monoprix stores, Rougier&Plé as well as Leclerc pharmacies and parapharmacies, and concept stores. Its presence on the Internet giant Amazon also enables them to broaden their field of distribution. This represents over 750 physical and digital points of sale.

"Accessibility and affordability are key aspects of the brand. The community can easily make their own recipes and products while respecting their health and our environment, and that remains our main objective."explains Nelly Pitt, now CEO of MyCosmetik.

Albéa publishes its 5th sustainable development report

site-industries-cosmetiques A report on the development of beauty products using auto draft technology.

Halfway through its ambitious 2020-2025 CSR journey, the Albéa Group has published its 5th annual voluntary sustainable development report.

This year's report highlights the efforts made by all teams, the CSR achievements of 2022 and progress on most plans to 2025:

  • Accelerating the transition to solutions with lower environmental impact.
  • Development of shorter, more transparent and traceable supply chains.
  • Reducing energy consumption in plants.

For Julian Waldron, Albéa's Managing Director: "Today more than ever, the challenge is to move to a circular business model and help our customers do the same. This requires a systematic approach across our entire value chain: from innovation and the supply chain to the manufacturing process. Ensuring Albéa's sustainability therefore means rethinking our business. That's why CSR is at the heart of all our operations and decisions - and carried by every one of our employees."

Youthful skin thanks to blueberry pterostilbene

site-industries-cosmetiques Growing blueberry tree.

Thanks to its expertise in molecular science, and over a decade of research in crystalline engineering, Spanish company Circe Scientific has developed a patented, multifunctional cocrystal that facilitates and maximizes the anti-aging power of beauty products.

Blueberries, "the best anti-aging fruit".

The secret of bilberry's rejuvenating power is pterostilbene. This is a molecule produced by bilberry plants to survive exposure to UV rays, drought, micro-organisms and more. It can also help keep skin more elastic, smoother and younger-looking over the years. However, due to its low solubility, it is not an easy molecule to use in cosmetics. "After years of research, Circe Scientific has succeeded in creating a product, Pteroyouth, which provides a solution to this need detected by the cosmetics industry. Its function is to improve the solubility of pterostilbene to facilitate its administration, by increasing its bioavailability and stability".explains Fernando Barrera, co-founder and CEO of Circe Scientific.

A synergy of two performance-boosting substances 

Pteroyouth is a patented, multifunctional cocrystal that combines pterostilbene with picolinic acid, a molecule naturally present in the human body and derived from tryptophan, which stimulates mineral absorption and the body's immune response. 

  • It helps the skin maintain a healthy structure when exposed to UVA and UVB rays.
  • It promotes an optimal cellular response so that the skin retains its structure when exposed to ionizing radiation.
  • It boosts the body's antioxidant defenses.
  • It increases cellular production of Nrf2 and decreases cellular production of NF-kB, helping the skin to modulate the inflammatory response.
  • It helps the skin modulate pigmentation associated with environmental stress and aging.
  • It boosts the activity of sirtuins, the "longevity enzymes" that regulate cellular activities linked to vitality and aging.

"Thanks to its rapid absorption, Pteroyouth is perfect for both oral and topical use. It is therefore the ideal choice for "Beauty from Within" packs "says Circe Scientific.

Cosmetics industry on TikTok: five key trends for 2023

site-industries-cosmetiques A person presenting a phone with the tiktok logo.

The rise of the Action France brand, ultra-worked challenges, a warning about animal testing, a boom in male influencers... TikTok is reshuffling the cards in the cosmetics industry.

Visibrain, the social network intelligence tool, deciphers the beauty sector on TikTok between May and August 2023.

Trend 1: the rise of low-price general retailers on TikTok

Maybelline, NYX, Kiko... Budget cosmetics brands are a hit with Internet users and are among the most frequently mentioned brands on TikTok, ahead of YSL, Fenty and Lancôme.

But it's not just cosmetics brands that attract Internet users. Low-price, generalist brands are on the rise, like Action France, the most-mentioned cosmetics brand on TikTok, just after Maybelline. To a lesser extent, Normal and Primark are also regularly mentioned in the videos.

Trend 2: increasingly sophisticated challenges

Initially known for its viral challenges, TikTok continues to be fueled by this format, which has not left the social network, but has been transformed. TikTok's cosmetics sector is thriving, as these challenges have become a way of working. One example is creator @sachacvl's "100yearsofbeauty", which retraces the different make-up eras in just a few seconds.

Trend 3: TikTokeurs call for help on animal abuse

The exploitation of animals in cosmetics laboratories is causing controversy on the social network. The staging of Ralph the rabbit in a video by Human Society International aims to raise awareness of animal conditions.

The video, relayed by @julie.lpnn is, for example, the most viewed (8 million views) and the most liked (1 million likes) when it comes to cosmetics on TikTok.

Trend 4: The heyday of male influencers on TikTok

Gone are the days when the cosmetics industry attracted only female influencers! And for good reason, two men have made it into the top 10 most influential beauty TikTokeurs ("Fabian CRFX" and "Un garçon stupide"). Together, they rack up almost 2.5 million likes on their videos. 

Trend 5: brands attack TikTok: Les Secrets de Loly, Nocibé, Printemps among the most influential

Many cosmetics brands have jumped on the TikTok bandwagon, and are developing their content on the social engagement network. Surfing astrology trends for one, announcing the arrival of new brands for another or presenting selections for yet another brand, all ideas are good for communicating on TikTok.

Les Secrets de Loly, Nocibé France, Printemps, Schwarzkopf Professional and Normal France are the five brands with the most likes on TikTok.

Laboratoires Boiron launch CBD by Boiron

Today, 80 % of French people have already heard of CBD, and 66 % would like to know more about this molecule extracted from cannabis¹. Among French people aged between 30 and 50, 59 % see it as a real health solution². 

Laboratoires Boiron, which has been offering plant-based health solutions for over 90 years, is launching new CBD-based cosmetics. As CBD is a fragile active ingredient, they have chosen an innovative process to preserve it: encapsulation. CBD molecules are incorporated into capsules that are easily assimilated by the skin: niosomes. "Concentrated in this way, the benefits of CBD remain intact until they are released at the heart of the epidermis. Precisely where the skin needs them.says Laboratoires Boiron.

Plants from cannabis Sativa selected by Laboratoires Boiron are all organically grown. As soon as they are harvested, the leaves and flowers are rapidly transported to preserve all their active ingredients. CBD molecules are then extracted and isolated from other cannabinoids, such as THC, before being encapsulated in niosomes.

The formulas of these new CBD-based products are composed of over 95 % of ingredients of natural origin.3 .

Packaging is partially recycled and recyclable4. The majority of the boxes are made from cardboard manufactured from organic residues from agro-industrial processes, containing 40% of post-consumer recycled fiber.

CBD By Boiron products are made in France, at Laboratoires Boiron in Messimy (Rhône).

1 Quantitative online study on CBD, conducted in July 2022 by Boiron via the Toluna Start panel, in France, on a nationally representative sample of 903 adults in terms of gender, age, region and socio-professional category.

2 Online consumer study on CBD, conducted in January 2021 by Expansion Consulteam, among 300 consumers of OTC - CPAL - phytotherapy products.

3 According to ISO 16128.

4 Except for the roll-on tube, which is neither recycled nor recyclable.

Superga Beauty unveils its CSR Report 2022

site-industries-cosmetiques A poster featuring an automatic sketch on a white background.

The publication of its new CSR report is an opportunity for Superga Beauty to take stock of its progress in terms of eco-responsibility, inclusion and social involvement, and above all to affirm its present and future commitments. 

More than a balance sheet, this document is the company's "essential". It guides our evolutions, developments, processes and collaborations.

Our ambition: to be a true industrial partner for beauty brands

Superga Beauty has a clear vision: to play a leading role in the great challenge of the beauty industry's environmental transition. The group is asserting itself as a force of proposition as well as an ally of brands and manufacturers. To embody this challenge, a coherent and effective methodology was essential. This was the aim of the process begun three years earlier, which resulted in Superga Beauty's first "essential". More virtuous processes and innovations supported this commitment. The group then decided not only to keep up the momentum, but also to extend it. The new, second edition of its "essentiel" is a logical follow-up.

"We're making progress and setting bold objectives. For brands to choose us as partners, we have to meet their industrial specifications while respecting their CSR ambitions. It's our duty to live up to their expectations. Our approach reflects that of a responsible company, fully aware of its impact on society and the environment.explains Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

Superga Beauty's second "essential" measures its progress on two fundamental pillars: the environment and the human ecosystem.

An eco-responsible group

Superga Beauty used its carbon footprint to precisely identify its sources of emissions and areas for improvement. The group has set itself the target of reducing its Scope 1 emissions (greenhouse gases produced by the company) and Scope 2 emissions (indirect emissions linked to energy, outside the company site) by 50 % by 2030.

In 2022, the Group will have reduced its direct emissions from combustion sources by 29.68 % compared with 2021, mainly due to electricity consumption.

"In 2022, our efforts were rewarded by the Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) with a B rating, making us one of the companies that demonstrate a heightened awareness of ecological issues and know how to manage the problems associated with their impact and management of resources".stresses Leslie Bréau Meniger.

Superga Beauty completes its approach by actively supporting an in-house eco-design policy, both for its products and formulas in partnership with the GBC laboratory, and for the packaging and objects produced by its Promotion and Full Service division.

Social commitments

People are a key factor in Superga Beauty's development. It is at the heart of everything we do. "The ecosystem in which Superga Beauty operates encompasses its employees, customers, suppliers and society as a whole. We are guided by two principles: inclusiveness and fairness. We implement actions based on safety and quality of life in the workplace, as well as ethics and respect for everyone".says Leslie Bréau Meniger.

Superga Beauty is also committed to fighting violence against women. The group has made this social issue its major battle. It has put in place a strong inclusive policy to support and reintegrate victims into the workforce. It is a patron of the "Maison des Femmes", the "Face" foundation and a signatory of its "1 in 3 women" charter. 

CSR commitment is a perpetual movement, and Superga Beauty is firmly convinced of this. The group intends to pursue its initiatives and report regularly with concrete actions and verified data. 

"We're proud of how far we've come, but also humbled and fully aware that we're only at the beginning of the process. We will continue to forge ahead.

concludes Leslie Bréau Meniger.

Boet Brinkgreve appointed CEO of Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté, a new Richemont entity

site-industries-cosmetiques A glass building with an automatic sign in front of it.

On September 1, 2023, Swiss luxury giant Richemont appointed Boet Brinkgreve as CEO of its new Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté division.

"I would like to (...) welcome Boet Brinkgreve to Richemont and its Executive Committee. Boet will establish and lead our new Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté to enable our six Maisons already involved in perfumery to achieve critical mass in this highly competitive field, where scale is crucial. In partnership with the Maisons, and while respecting their unique high-end positioning, the platform will harness the resources of our Maisons to help develop the finest creations and most promising licenses."said Johann Rupert, Chairman of Richemont.

"Mr. Boet's role will be instrumental in enabling our Houses to reach their full potential in this dynamic market, expanding their customer base while enhancing the Houses' abilities to meet the needs of their highly demanding clientele. With his in-depth knowledge of the fragrance industry, his previous successes in leading new ventures, his remarkable experience in building winning international teams, and his commitment to sustainable ingredient sourcing, I am convinced that Boet will be a major asset to the group."continued Johann Rupert.

Before being appointed CEO of Richemont's Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté in 2023, Boet Brinkgreve held a number of senior positions at dsm-firmenich from 2007 to 2023, most recently as President of the Group's Ingredients and Sourcing Division and member of the dsm-firmenich Executive Committee. Prior to joining dsm-firmenich, he founded several start-ups and then worked for DuPont in business development functions from 2003 to 2007.

Photo: ©Richemont

Towards less harmful silicones

site-industries-cosmetiques Different types of skin care products on a white surface.

Silicones ("polysiloxanes") are used in numerous industrial applications, from cosmetics to aerospace.

"Nevertheless, during their synthesis, cyclic oligosiloxanes can be formed, small molecules some of which are classified as toxic for the environment and suspected of being endocrine disruptors", reminds the CNRS.

Led by a CNRS researcher, a team of scientists from the Fundamental and Applied Heterochemistry Laboratory (CNRS/Université de Toulouse Paul Sabatier), Elkem Silicones and the Department of Chemistry at the Autonomous University of Barcelona have developed a process for synthesizing silicones from cyclic siloxanes in a cleaner, more environmentally-friendly way, while preventing the formation of these impurities in the finished product. 

These results have been published in the scientific journal Science. According to the CNRS, they could have considerable spin-offs for the industrial sector.

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