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Ban on animal testing: Cruelty Free Europe dissatisfied

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman works in a drafting laboratory.

According to Cruelty Free Europe, the European Commission is ignoring calls from French citizens to maintain the ban on animal testing for cosmetics.

The animal protection NGO points out that the European Citizens' Initiative (ECI) "Save Cruelty Free Cosmetics - Commit to a Europe Without Animal Testing" has been signed by 248,070 people in France.1 - more than four times the national target - and by 1.2 million signatories across Europe. 

According to the organization, "the ban on animal testing for cosmetics, introduced in 2013, has been scandalously gutted, despite the Commission's commitment to a long-term plan to phase out animal testing for all chemicals as part of its formal response to the ECI."

Cruelty Free Europe recalls that an ingredient may be used exclusively in cosmetic products, such as make-up, shampoo, moisturizer, soap, perfume and toothpaste, or in other products.2Animal testing is always required to verify the safety of a chemical handled by industrial workers or likely to be released into the environment, in accordance with the European chemicals regulation Reach (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals).

And he adds: "Worryingly, the proposed updates to Reach indicate that animal testing for chemicals is set to increase dramatically over the next few years."

ICE, also backed by global beauty and personal care companies The Body Shop and Dove, was the seventh to pass the one million verified signatures threshold when it was confirmed in January that 1,217,916 people had called for an end to the outdated and unreliable use of animals in cosmetics and chemical testing.

In June 2020, a Savanta Comres3 showed that the ban on animal testing for cosmetic products is enjoying massive new support. It revealed that almost three quarters (74 %) of EU citizens believe that animal testing for cosmetics and ingredients is unacceptable under any circumstances. In the poll, 75 % of French people believe that animal testing for cosmetics and ingredients is unacceptable in all circumstances.

"While we welcome positive action to replace the use of animals in chemical experiments and testing, it's outrageous that the cosmetics testing ban we fought so hard for, and which European citizens voted for, is being gutted. The European Commission has ignored the demands of 1.2 million people and condemned more animals to unnecessary suffering in the name of beauty. European citizens have made it clear that animal testing has no place in modern society, whether for cosmetics or any other product, said Michelle Thew, Managing Director of Cruelty Free Europe. Consumers and the beauty industry want an end to animal testing for cosmetics, and it's time for the European Commission to listen to its citizens. We're asking consumers to contact their MEPs or local parliamentary representatives to make sure their voice is heard, and to let them know that animal testing for cosmetics must end.4. Together, we can put an end to suffering."

1. https://europa.eu/citizens-initiative/initiatives/details/2021/000006_en

2. The European Commission's official report on ECI states: "[f]or chemicals that are not exclusively used in cosmetics, animal testing is allowed... to meet the requirements of REACH... registrants of chemicals exclusively used in cosmetics may need to perform animal testing to meet the requirement for worker and environmental risk assessment under REACH.... it is not yet considered sufficient to carry out safety assessments for human health and the environment without any animal testing, due to the lack of accepted alternative methods".

3. Savanta ComRes, on behalf of Cruelty Free Europe, surveyed 5,653 adults over the age of 18 in twelve EU member states (Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Portugal, Denmark and Croatia) from June 9 to 19, 2020.

4. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/meps/en/home

October, pink ribbon month for Perlucine

site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of lip balm on a sandy beach.

Breast cancer is the most common cancer in France, and the leading cause of cancer-related death in women. Screening is no longer taboo, and it can save lives.

Perlucine, the marine hygiene and cosmetics brand from the Aquatonale laboratory, is taking advantage of the Pink October awareness campaign to promote its "100 % clean" deodorant powder.

The aim is to raise consumer awareness from an early age, giving them the opportunity to adopt good purchasing habits while protecting the planet.

Perlucine makes a donation to research. Some 10 % of the deodorant's sales will be donated to an association fighting breast cancer.

Team Perlucine will be taking part in the "Octobre Rose en Pays de Redon" running race on Sunday, October 22, 2023 in Redon, Ille-et-Vilaine.


Perlucine, in brief :

  • Water- and preservative-free powder care
  • Aluminum salt-free
  • 100 % ingredients of natural origin
  • Effective all day long
  • Prevents the formation of odour-causing bacteria
  • Environmentally friendly
  • Balances skin flora
  • Respects the microbiome and lets the skin breathe
  • Available in refill (for use with Natpack shell-based shaker).

Symrise Fine Fragrance perfumes the Istituto Marangoni Paris fashion show

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman sits on a sofa.

For the Istituto Marangoni Paris annual fashion show held on July 7, 2023, Symrise offered guests an immersive olfactory experience. Drawing on the creations of fashion students, ten perfumers from the Fine Fragrance division imagined unique scents to create an unprecedented sensory journey.

On July 7, the top ten students in the Fashion Design program at Istituto Marangoni Paris unveiled their personal projects at a fashion show, a much-anticipated annual event for the fashion and media industries. To support this key moment in their professional and academic careers, these young designers - selected by a jury of professionals - benefited from the collaboration and expertise of Symrise's Fine Fragrance division.

For several months, ten of the company's perfumers - Margherita Carini, Alexandra Carlin, Émilie Coppermann, Philippine Courtière, Pierre Guéros, Suzy Le Helley, Alienor Massenet, Annick Menardo, Maurice Roucel and Isaac Sinclair - each worked closely with one of these students to find out what inspirations had guided them in their creative process. Based on these exchanges, Symrise's perfumers proposed a unique fragrance in keeping with their story.

A dialogue towards limitless creation

By fusing the art of fashion with the captivating power of fragrance, the House of Fragrance creates long-term bridges between the professions of luxury craftsmanship, keeping abreast of tomorrow's trends while continuing to nurture the creativity of its perfumers.

"More than a collaboration, it's a generational dialogue between creators and creators with Istituto Marangoni. This partnership opens the way to infinite creation, with no other constraint than that of exchange, and enables us to stimulate and encourage the creativity of our perfumers".says Thomas Lalague, Vice-President Fine Fragrance EMEA.

With a view to passing on and sharing know-how, the composition house is committed to a new generation of designers. This collaboration is the starting point for a lasting partnership between Symrise and Istituto Marangoni. From the start of the 2023 academic year, the school will offer a program dedicated to perfumery and cosmetics, particularly in Paris, where Symrise will provide training in the discovery of the world of olfaction.

"We are delighted with this partnership with Istituto Marangoni, which sounds like a return to our roots for Symrise, which has long enjoyed privileged relationships with schools in Italy. Thanks to its Italian creative DNA and global presence, Istituto Marangoni embodies the future of creation in fashion, art and design. The values of transmission and sharing are dear to Symrise, and we are honored to be able to put our expertise at the service of a new generation".explains Véronique Ferval, Global Senior Vice-President, Fine Fragrance Creation.

Photo from the video produced for the event: https://youtu.be/2jk-KvFF4S0?si=FtC6NGoFN2Kwcv5A

Groupe Berkem signs an agreement for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in Turkey

site-industries-cosmetiques A boat near a mosque.

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces the signature of an agreement with Eigenmann & Veronelli, an international solutions provider in the field of specialty chemicals and food ingredients, for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in Turkey. 

Eigenmann & Veronelli has a strong position and expertise in Turkey and will extend the solutions it offers to customers, accelerating the Berkem Group's growth in the personal care market.

 This new distribution agreement confirms the Berkem Group's commitment to strengthening its international presence via specialized distributors in the cosmetics and nutraceutical markets for its plant-based ingredients. 

In recent years, the Turkish cosmetics industry has recorded strong annual growth, including 20 % in 2018. Domestic demand for cosmetic items continues to grow, fueled both by rising incomes and changing consumption patterns among women, but also men, who have been increasingly affected by the cosmetics market in recent years. 

France, Turkey's No. 1 supplier in 2017, enjoys a particularly high profile in the sector, enabling French brands to benefit from excellent positioning with Turkish consumers, who appreciate the quality, prestige and renown of "made in France "*.

Éric Moussu, Sales Director of Groupe Berkem, comments: " We are delighted to be addressing the Turkish cosmetics market through our new partner Eigenmann & Veronelli, and we are continuing our efforts to establish quality partnerships, enabling us to offer the cosmetics market our natural and biosourced ingredients, and to bring naturalness to these booming sectors. Turkey's geostrategic position as a hub offers excellent growth prospects and significant potential for players like Groupe Berkem." 

Mauro Avidano, Sales Director of Eigenmann & Veronelli, adds: "We are continually committed to providing solutions that meet the ever-changing needs of customers and suppliers, and to supporting the sustainable development of businesses by offering natural and organically sourced ingredients. With this agreement, the Berkem Group and E&V will benefit from a strategic partnership that will enable them to grow in the personal care market in Turkey."*

*Source: data from BusinessFrance

Rethinking waste management and overproduction

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman browses cosmetics on her phone.

Waste and overproduction are among the issues facing the beauty and cosmetics industry. 

Avery Dennison's report "Missing billions: the true cost of supply chain waste" reveals that over 10 % of beauty products with an estimated value of $4.8 billion are wasted in supply chains. 6.2 % of discarded goods are the result of overproduction, while 4 % of inventory is discarded due to spoilage or deterioration of the merchandise. Unsurprisingly, this is a growing concern for brands, which could be losing up to 2.8 % of their annual profits.

Another important criterion to consider is the environmental impact of cosmetic waste from shampoos, lotions, deodorants and other body care products. Today, plastic is responsible for over 120 billion units of packaging produced each year by the cosmetics industry, the vast majority of which cannot be recycled. According to an OECD report, only 9 % of plastic waste is recycled worldwide. This rate is expected to rise to 17 % by 2060.

According to Avery Dennison's survey of 60 cosmetics companies in the USA, UK, China, France and Japan, 23% of brands' environmental impact comes from their supply chain activities.

Over three-quarters (77 %) of those surveyed currently track waste in their supply chain. However, 18 % of them cited lack of visibility and transparency between trading partners as the main barrier to their supply chain resilience.

The use of RFID technology is a solution that helps brands reduce waste in the supply chain. It creates a unique digital identity for each product, linking the physical with the digital. It provides valuable information to enable consumers to make better decisions, particularly in terms of transparency and carbon footprint.

Thanks to recent technological developments, RFID is better suited to labeling small items, liquid containers or products with metallic markings. 

RFID offers an extra level of authenticity and traceability throughout a product's lifecycle, from manufacture to shelf and beyond. It makes it easier to identify packaging and its contents for recycling programs, or to inform consumers that no unwanted ingredients, such as palm oil, are present in the article.

The atma.io connected products cloud helps brands achieve their zero-waste goals throughout the supply chain. Currently, over 28 billion items are managed by the atma.io platform in the apparel, retail, food and healthcare sectors. 

The atma.io real-time carbon impact analysis tool also provides brands with information on data concerning the carbon footprint of their products, including Scope 3 emissions and beyond. This is a powerful new tool that captures data at every stage of a product's journey, from raw material to consumer, and can help companies comply with the forthcoming European Digital Product Passport (DPP) regulation.

The real-time waste elimination tool atma.io uses artificial intelligence and machine learning to analyze and communicate supply chain anomalies and inefficiencies. This includes information on overdue product movements at pallet level, or even on isolated items in a warehouse that are about to perish. These features enable brands to take swift, proactive action to improve supply chain efficiency, minimize product loss and provide sufficient inventory to meet customer demands.

This versatile technology helps find relevant solutions to reduce waste and overproduction. By leveraging these digital identification solutions, brands can guarantee better stock visibility, increased durability and improved profitability.

Pierre Fabre consolidates its expertise in dermatology by creating an international database

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman wearing a black and white striped top.

To mark the 25the At the World Congress of Dermatology (WCD), held in Singapore from July 4 to 7, Pierre Fabre's Patient Relations Department presented the ALL project, a large-scale survey, the largest ever carried out in dermatology.

This project, launched at the end of 2022 with the help of Emma, aims to collect data on all skin types (ALL Skins), all skin diseases (ALL Dermatoses) and all phototypes (ALL Colors) in order to build the largest international private database.

Some 50,552 people from the adult populations of 20 countries (representing over 50 % of the world's population) on five continents answered the 65 ALL project questions.

The main themes addressed relate to the prevalence and impact of pathologies, but also to the behaviors, care pathways and needs of patients affected by one or more dermatoses such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea or vitiligo (see Appendix 1).

The strength of this study lies in the considerable scope of the data collected, and their representativeness: respondents were drawn from samples proportional to the population of each country (see Appendix 2), enabling a highly reliable analysis of needs on a global scale, by geographical territory. 

The ALL database has been built with results analyzed over time (longitudinal analysis), over a five-year period (2023-2027). The 3.3 million data points will be used to identify the information essential to a better understanding of patients' experiences.

"The creation of this database, exceptional in its geographical coverage, confirms our commitment to working alongside healthcare professionals worldwide to help improve the quality of life of patients suffering from skin pathologies. Better understanding their expectations will enable us to orientate our way of working and innovate to better support them in their dermatological care.said Núria Perez Cullel, Medical and Patient/Consumer Relations Director at Pierre Fabre.

More than one person in three suffers from a skin disease, yet health and prevention policies do not consider dermatology to be a public health priority. The ALL project aims to provide a global overview of the prevalence of major skin diseases and their consequences, in order to raise awareness among all stakeholders. Patients suffering from dermatological diseases need more support, and it is essential to succeed in convincing public authorities to attach greater importance to dermatoses in prevention programs. 

This unique project has already won the support of internationally renowned opinion leaders: Professor Jean Hilaire Saurat of the University of Geneva for acne, Professor Gil Yosipovitch of the University of Miami, for pruritus, Professors Henry LIM of the University of Detroit and Khaled Ezzedine, dermatologist at APH Paris, for photoprotection, Professor Julien Seneschal, dermatologist at Bordeaux University Hospital for vitiligo and Professor Marie Aleth Richard, dermatologist at APH Marseille and former president of the SFD.

Data from the ALL study will also be shared with patient associations to help them make their case to the general public, healthcare professionals and the authorities. Seven patient associations have already been involved in this process in France and abroad.

"For healthcare professionals, the ALL project is unique. Thanks to its methodology, it will enable us to describe for the first time the perceived prevalence of pruritus worldwide, regardless of patients' ethnicity, gender, age or region!" said Professor Gil Yosipovitch, Director of the Miami Itch Center (Dr. Phillip Frost Dept. of Dermatology, Miller School of Medicine, Miami USA).

Appendix 1:
List of subjects studied

Acne, psoriasis, rosacea, eczema, lentigo, skin cancers, vitiligo, hair and nail disorders, wounds/healing, pain and pruritus, aesthetic procedures, oral care disorders, sun protection. 

Appendix 2:
Sample sizes by country
5000 people in China; 5000 people in the USA; 4001 people in Brazil; 4001 people in Italy; 4000 people in France; 4000 people in Germany; 4000 people in Spain; 3000 people in India; 2500 people in Canada; 2500 people in Mexico; 2500 people in Poland; 2500 people in South Korea; 2000 people in Australia; 1000 people in Denmark; 1000 people in Israel; 1000 people in Portugal; 1000 people in South Africa; 750 people in the United Arab Emirates; 500 people in Kenya; 300 people in Senegal.

A compact 96-channel benchtop pipetting system

site-industries-cosmetiques A tablet with a microscope attached for automatic drawing.

Mettler Toledo introduces the first portable 96-channel Rainin MicroPro benchtop pipetting system. 

MicroPro simplifies and streamlines work on 96- and 384-well microplates. 

Compact, affordable and easy to use, this system connects via Bluetooth to a touch-sensitive control system offering an intuitive, user-friendly experience with all features and functions at your fingertips.

Simplifies workflows

Thanks to its many features, the Rainin MicroPro improves reproducibility of results and reduces handling errors. Its multiple standard and advanced pipetting modes enable faster, higher-quality workflows.

Unique

With a height of just over 30 cm and a width of 19 cm, MicroPro is, according to Mettler Toledo, the smallest 96-channel pipetting system on the market. It frees up space on a laboratory bench. Its 5 kg weight makes it the only truly portable system.

Despite its compact size, the MicroPro has two platter settings for enhanced productivity. It also boasts a clear, bright, high-resolution color user interface, making it a pleasure to use.

Customized protocols 

Customized protocols can be created with ease, while sequences of instructions and liquid handling steps can be composed and recorded to meet the exact requirements of the moment.

Givaudan announces its new upcycled ingredient: Strawberry Alcoholate Orpur

site-industries-cosmetiques A close-up of a red strawberry with water droplets.

Givaudan's Orpur collection was created in 2000 with the aim of exploiting the potential of iconic natural raw materials in perfumery. 

"Strawberry Alcoholate Orpur", an ingredient created from strawberry juice manufacturing waste, makes its debut in the collection!

Perfumer Marypierre Julien and Natural Marketing Manager Eléa Noyant introduced Givaudan's newest upcycled fragrance ingredient on Instagram.

"Having access to natural 100 % fruits opens up the perfumer's palette and allows for much more explosive creativity in the initial notes. It brings a lot of naturalness and juiciness to a fragrance".says Marypierre Julien.

"This ingredient comes from the fruit juice industry. Thanks to this combination of flavors, fragrances, upcycling and new innovation techniques, we are now able to produce alcohol-soluble extracts that can be used for perfumes.explains Eléa Noyant.

"Strawberry is a very versatile product. It works very well as an eau de toilette, but it also works as a candle. It brings a very juicy and very green and sparkling note to the top. It goes very well with other fruits. It's also very floral.explains Marypierre Julien.

Perfume plants in the spotlight

site-industries-cosmetiques A pink rose with green leaves in the foreground.

In 2020, Lancôme acquired Domaine de la Rose, in Grasse. Today, this seven-hectare site is dedicated to the organic polyculture of a dozen varieties of perfume plants, including Centifolia rose, tuberose, jasmine and iris.

The estate will open its doors to the public for the next Heritage Days, on September 16 and 17, 2023.

"The Domaine de la Rose is a place for sharing, preserving and celebrating natural and cultural know-how related to perfume.says Lancôme.

A guided tour will reveal the history of the estate - where perfume plants are grown using traditional polyculture methods - an educational distillery and the "Maison Rose", an eco-designed building with original architecture housing a perfume organ.

As owner, bio-agriculturalist, producer and perfumer, Lancôme has demonstrated its attachment to Grasse with this estate.

Lubrizol offers a new rheology modifier

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's hand holds a bottle of Lubrizol cream.

Carbopol SC-800 is part of Lubrizol's Carbopol family of polymers.

Indicated for gentle, sulfate-free cleansing formulations, this polymer is a rheology modifier for gentle, sulfate-free formulations, shower gels, shampoos and facial cleansers. 

"Carbopol SC-800 polymer shows the best thickening efficiency, clarity and suspension properties in studies comparing it to other hydrophobic modified polymers. This allows formulators to create unique aesthetics in their skin cleansing formulas, including the suspension of natural pearls, scrubs and other cleansing elements."says Lubrizol Life Science Beauty.

According to the company, studies on foam generation have also shown that the polymer has no negative impact on foam quality, either in terms of the volume of foam generated or its morphology.

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