Home Blog Page 85

What preclinical and clinical claims will cosmetics be making in the first half of 2024?

By
Skinobs
-
Skin care cream

Skinobs' half-yearly audience report outlines preclinical and clinical claims in cosmetics for the first half of 2024.

For years, beauty testing services have been influenced by many drivers, from technological advances such as optical innovations, AI, biomarker discovery to consumer expectations. Pre-clinical testing and clinical studies enable ingredient and cosmetics brands to communicate product performance to their customers, giving the evaluation of product tolerance or efficacy a highly strategic position in the launch development process.

Skinobs' half-yearly audience report provides an overview of claim trends in the cosmetic testing sector, based on user searches on the Skinobs platform, for preclinical testing (in silico, in vitro, or ex vivo...) and clinical (in vivo).

The report is based on searches carried out by over 7,700 users in 89 countries, using data from the 400 laboratories and 1,000 methods referenced on the platform.

site-industries-cosmetiques A list entitled "SEARCH TOP 10 Countries" displays the names and flags of France, Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Luxembourg, Germany, USA, UK, Indonesia and Canada. The layout almost resembles an automatic draft in its simplicity and clarity.

Users of the Skinobs platform, whether R&D managers, formulators, evaluation or marketing managers, come mainly from Europe (over 72 %), the Americas (21 %), Africa (5 %) and Asia (2 %). However, there has been an increase in searches in Asia, explained by the fact that Skinobs referenced various Asian laboratories in the first half of 2024.

1. Pre-clinical trials - new ageing claims emerge

site-industries-cosmetiques Image text listing the top 10 benefits of skin care: 1. Aging, 2. Regenerating, 3. Firming, 4. Barrier function, 5. Brightening, 6. Anti-inflammatory, 7. Repairing, 8. Anti-UVA, 9. Anti-oxidant, and clinical studies in cosmetics clinics

Changing market trends in the beauty industry have led to significant advances in preclinical evaluation methods. These methods, which include in silico, in tubo, in vitro and ex vivoThese tests evaluate factors such as safety, stability, biodegradability and efficacy. Key developments stem from a better understanding of skin biology and the discovery of biomarkers, as well as innovative testing platforms. These platforms facilitate cell-based testing, cocultures and sophisticated models such as 3D skin constructs and organ-on-a-chip systems using microfluidics. By incorporating neurons, capillaries and other skin elements, these models offer increased complexity and more accurate, real-world testing conditions.

At the start of 2024, some of the most sought-after new claims appeared, such as "regenerating", "firming", "brightening" and "repairing", taking precedence over the dominant "anti-aging" claim.

This shift reflects a move towards a more holistic approach, known as "well-ageing". Rather than focusing on fighting the signs of aging, this trend emphasizes maintaining skin health, natural beauty and well-being. This shift in discourse appeals to consumers who are increasingly looking for products that promote long-term care and well-being, rather than short-term solutions, and a more balanced and realistic view of aging.

In terms of the type of tests carried out, we are seeing a diversification in the types of tests performed. More specifically, consultancy services, UV in vitro and physical and chemical analyses are on the increase. This trend is accompanied by a significant reduction in traditional efficacy testing, which has fallen by 17 percentage points. This decline allows for a more balanced distribution of tests in other areas, notably safety assessments, microbiological analysis, UV testing, and so on. in vitro and specialized efficacy evaluations, such as those focused on hair care.

The increase in consulting services, which rose by six percentage points, underlines the growing importance brands place on expert advice. Regulatory service providers assess compliance with safety and environmental standards, efficacy and claims that ingredients or finished products must validate through testing protocols. They are therefore first-rate partners in helping cosmetics and ingredients brands bring their products to market. They are therefore partners of choice to support brands in the development of their cosmetic products. In addition to confirming claims, they are also at the origin of new ideas that enlighten and serve marketing semantics, making it possible to build a factual, differentiating discourse adapted to the profound changes in lifestyles and consumption patterns.

UV testing in vitro have also taken on growing importance as a public health issue. This category of tests is uniquely governed by ISO Good Standard Practice, which guarantees the consistency and reliability of assessment methods worldwide (with exceptions in certain regions). Whatever the mechanism of action studied, the industry is progressively adopting a hybrid assessment approach combining tests in vitro studies in vivo. This approach is facilitated by innovations in increasingly sophisticated and specific skin models. These 3D skin models can now include elements such as capillaries, neurons and specificities linked to sensitivity, age or pigmentation, enabling a more accurate representation of skin reactions. These technological developments not only improve the accuracy of assessments, but also their variety, as these improved models provide more comprehensive and reliable data.

Overall, there is less research into efficacy testing, and a more even split with other test categories. The increased importance of research in consulting services reflects a shift towards informed, science-based product development. At the same time, the increase in research into UV in vitro shows the importance of these evaluations as a guarantee of correct and safe use by consumers. These research trends collectively illustrate a dynamic and evolving approach within the cosmetics industry, driven by the need for ever-greater safety, scientifically-proven efficacy and alignment with holistic and informed consumer demands.

2. Clinical evaluation: the rise of the "ageing well" claim

In the field of clinical evaluation, developments are equally important. The issue of inclusivity is influencing the way products are tested worldwide on multiple skin types in multi-center studies. Consumers are increasingly concerned that ethical considerations should be taken into account and that tests on humans should not be too extensive.

site-industries-cosmetiques A list entitled "Top 10 cosmetic claims" with the following items: 1. Aging well, 2. Moisturizing, 3. Firming, 4. Anti-pollution, 5. Oxygenating, 6. Anti-fatigue, 7. Anti-hair loss, 8. Antioxidant, 9. Reduces hair fragility (

We see a similar increase in the importance of research into the "ageing well" claim, which has risen by 18 percentage points. This confirms a growing shift towards a more holistic approach to skincare, focusing on overall wellbeing rather than simply combating the visible signs of aging. The demand for beauty routines that act holistically is helping to develop new tests based on neuroscientific approaches. There is a very strong trend towards measuring emotions using neurosensory analysis based on 3 complementary components: expressive, subjective and physiological.

As a result, searches for traditional claims such as hydration drop by 32 percentage points, giving way to more specific wellness claims such as firming, anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits. These new areas of interest emphasize not only the aesthetic aspects of skincare, but also the importance of protecting the skin against environmental factors and promoting long-term health.

Biometrological testing remains at the forefront of research, accounting for 48 % of all tests, although this figure is down from 55 % in 2023. Despite this decline, the split is now more balanced between consultation (9 %) and tolerance testing (8 %).

Underlining the growing importance of oral hygiene in personal care habits, there was also a 4-point increase in oral care effectiveness tests. This increase reflects the growing interest in dental care and oral health. Brands are focusing more on the efficacy and safety of oral care products, responding to consumer demand for complete health solutions that go beyond skin care to include dental wellness as a crucial part of personal care.

This report highlights the changing landscape of cosmetics testing and provides valuable advice to brands and industry players, helping them to align their product development strategies with emerging consumer demands and preferences.

Overall, these changes signify a paradigm shift in the science of beauty, emphasizing a holistic understanding of human biology and its link to beauty. They testify to the industry's commitment to innovation and integration, thanks to technological advances and a better understanding of human physiology.

The cosmetics industry has always prioritized consumer, biometrological and scientific evaluations to meet the innovation imperative. Testing technologies are the foundation of product innovation, improving marketing and communication standards. They push back the boundaries of product claims and raise expectations of product efficacy. The factors that define cosmetic products are the active ingredients, the formulation and the overall proposition, which depend on substantiated claims.

Skinobs, a platform launched in 2016

Skinobs is the leading referencing platform for preclinical and clinical tests. The aim of the platform is to offer beauty professionals worldwide an intuitive, free database of all testing solutions for skin, nails and hair. A comprehensive, independent tool, Skinobs offers two platforms dedicated to preclinical testing (in silico, in tubo, in vitro or ex vivo) and clinical evaluation (in vivo to optimize product development in terms of performance, cost, speed and innovation.

Main photo: AdoreBeautyNZ / Pixabay

A varnish to protect glass bottles from UV rays     

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Nexdot Varnish

French start-up Nexdot, which specializes in applications based on quantum dot research, has developed a new varnish for treating bottles to protect them from UV rays. The aim is to reduce the use of additives in the world of perfumery and cosmetics.

Its U v ltimate varnish was tested on an industrial production line on September 19, 2024 at a major glassmaker supplying major international players in the perfume and luxury goods industries.

Capitalizing on more than 10 years' research into quantum dots, Nexdot designs innovative varnishes incorporating nano-crystals that absorb ultra-violet rays (A, B and C), without impacting the visible light spectrum. Treated bottles remain transparent, with no dominant color. 

A clear varnish to filter UV rays and reduce the use of additives

The most important molecules used by perfumers and cosmetics manufacturers, especially those of natural origin, are rapidly degraded when exposed to UV radiation. Formulators incorporate additives into their formulas to protect and stabilize fragile active molecules. Without protection, a perfume, for example, would lose its color after prolonged exposure to sunlight, and its olfactory signature would be altered. 

Although organic anti-UV varnishes are already applied to certain bottles to reduce exposure to UV rays, their effectiveness is not sufficient to allow a significant reduction in the use of additives designed to protect UV-sensitive molecules (odor, color, active ingredients) in formulations.

Nexdot varnishes, which filter UV rays through mineral particles, offer an alternative to organic anti-UV varnishes. The absorbency of the varnishes developed by the company can be custom-tuned to be total over the entire UV spectrum, with a very steep cut-off slope that avoids overflow into blue light.

"Applied to the outside of perfume bottles, for example, without contact with the contents, they are non-toxic, environmentally friendly, and their perfect transparency means that bottles can be recycled without any impact on the industrial chain.the company promises. With over 1,500 vials processed by the production line, the test demonstrated Nexdot's ability to offer this revolutionary solution for protecting formulations against ultraviolet radiation on a very large scale."

Founded in 2010 on the initiative of Maurice Guillou (ex DGA of Spie batignolles) and Benoit Dubertret (CNRS-ESPCI research director), Nexdot aims to develop industrial applications in France based on the results of Benoit Dubertret's fundamental research into quantum dots, or quantum boxes (Nobel Prize in Chemistry 2023). The company, whose laboratory and pilot lines are based in Romainville (93), has filed over 40 patent families since its creation, exploring several fields of application for these nano-crystals.

A strategic partnership for the production of biorecycled PETG

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Carbios - Selenis

Carbios, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of bio-based technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastics and textiles, and Selenis, a leading supplier of high-quality specialized polyester solutions, have signed a letter of intent to cooperate in the production of sustainable PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) from PET waste for the cosmetics packaging and healthcare sectors in Europe and the USA.

Thanks to its transparency and mechanical and chemical resistance, PETG is a popular packaging material in the cosmetics and healthcare industries.

Carbios' enzymatic depolymerization solution breaks down all types of PET waste into PTA (purified terephthalic acid) and MEG (monoethylene glycol) monomers, which are then converted into PETG using Selenis' advanced polymerization processes. Thanks to the purity of these monomers, biorecycled PETG has exactly the same properties as virgin PETG, enabling products packaged in thick, molded jars and lids to be protected and attractively presented.

This partnership is the result of several pilot and industrial-scale polymerization trials which have enabled us to refine the quality of the final product. The result is highly specialized PETG grades derived from biorecycling that meet the stringent requirements of the cosmetics and healthcare sectors, where Selenis has a strong presence thanks to its Selcare brand.

"Carbios and Selenis have a long-standing collaboration, and we are pleased to build on this relationship to produce PETG from Carbios' unique biorecycling technology. This high-end, highly specialized material meets high quality requirements while contributing to the transition to more sustainable packaging materials. This partnership will open up new markets for Carbios, particularly in the healthcare sector, as we continue our international commercial roll-out".says Carbios Managing Director Emmanuel Ladent.

"This collaboration marks an exciting step forward in our mission to promote sustainability in the polymerization industry. By combining our 65 years of expertise with Carbios' pioneering biorecycling technology, which guarantees high-quality monomers for the production of virgin-identical PETG, we are making progress in the development of sustainable materials to meet the growing demand for environmentally-friendly solutions in the cosmetics and healthcare sectors. Together, we have the potential to rethink the future of sustainable plastics".says Eduardo Santos, Head of Corporate Strategy at Selenis.

Photo: left: MEG from Carbios' PET biorecycling process; right: PTA from Carbios' PET biorecycling process.

EcoVadis Gold, CDP Climate Score B and EcoDesignCloud for Cosmogen

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Cosmogen - EcoVadis Gold

Cosmogen, a company with a mission since 2022, joins the top 5% of Ecovadis Gold rated companies after obtaining the CDP SME B for Climate score, and becoming a member of the EcoDesignCloud.

Led by Priscille Allais, its Chairman and CEO since 2019, and supported in its strategy by Weinberg Capital Partners since the end of 2024, Cosmogen - a manufacturer of innovative, patented and responsible application solutions for cosmetics and pharmaceutical brands - is pursuing its roadmap, with societal and environmental responsibility as vectors of motivation, innovation and growth.

The EcoVadis Gold score crowns Cosmogen's efforts and actions in the four themes targeted by the standard: environment, social and human rights, ethics and responsible purchasing. This recognition is reinforced by the CDP's Climate Score B, the highest score awarded in 2024, among companies that have chosen to publish their data transparently in the areas of finance, procurement, investment and policy.

An international non-profit organization, the CDP manages the world's only independent environmental information-sharing system. Through this sharing, its stated aim is to combat the environmental crisis by fuelling a transparent and balanced decision-making process that reduces the impact of actions taken, in order to preserve the planet for future generations.

"One of our major Brazilian customers urged us to take part in the CDP program, which made perfect sense to us. We'd like to thank them for that. Alongside Ecovadis Gold, the results reward the work of the entire Cosmogen team, committed to offering packaging and application solutions that are both high-end and eco-responsible".says Cosmogen.

To help them, the teams, who had been trained in eco-design for over five years, were already using in-house brush life-cycle analysis software to help brands make the right choices. By becoming a member of the EcoDesignCloud, Cosmogen intends to stand out as a committed leader in eco-design, following in the footsteps of L'Oréal and LVMH.

TNT Group designs an original accessory for Sisley

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
TNT Goup - Sisley

Specializing in the design, development and manufacture of primary and secondary packaging in metal - zamak, aluminum, brass and stainless steel, in particular - for the perfume, skincare and make-up industries, TNT Group was asked by Sisley to design and produce the massage accessory that accompanies the fragrance. Supremϋa at night, The great anti-aging eye care product. 

Imagined to act on every zone of the eye contour, this original, luxurious massage accessory is made from a single piece of zamak with gold e-coating and matte varnish, signed with the logo. 

TNT Group successfully met the technical challenges imposed by this project: the meticulous polishing of the ends to perfectly respect their rounded shape, the engraving of the logo in the mold, and the resistance of the e-coating and varnish to ensure the durability of the accessory.

The massage tool will be on display at the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024 (#VA10).

Semi-automatic bagging stations

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Gericke bagging_station

Gericke, a Swiss manufacturer of complete dosing, conveying and mixing systems, offers semi-automatic bagging stations for powders and granulates. 

Particularly used for bagging or drumming loads ranging from 500 g to 50 kg, with accuracies of just a few grams, these bagging stations are suitable for powders and granulates with flows ranging from simple to very difficult. They can produce up to 60 bags or drums per hour.

These bagging stations are composed of a precision dosing unit adapted to the product to be processed, a weighing plate associated with its electronics, and a bagging mouth equipped with a bag clamp, an inflatable seal and a dust extraction mouth, thus preventing any dust emission into the operator's work area.

For its customers, Gericke is able to carry out industrial-scale tests at its pilot stations for its entire product range.

An elegant, practical jar for effortless refills

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Arena Jar

Arena, the latest addition to the jar collection from Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, features a wide base and low profile, giving it a distinctive silhouette and minimalist elegance.

The 50-ml jar features a PET outer wall, a PP refill and a PP cap. The two-piece cap is designed to facilitate complex decorations and improve appearance while reducing weight and quantity of materials. PET and PP components can be easily disassembled for recycling.

A discreet notch on the rim of the outer jar makes it easy to remove the inner refill. "The refill concept only works if it's done without fuss, and that's exactly what Arena offers," explains Karen Merchán, Category Manager - Skincare at Quadpack. With its smart notch along the rim, there's no need to stick your fingers into the jar to remove it. Your fingers stay clean and don't slip. It's a highly functional feature that distinguishes Arena's design. 

Refills are heat-sealed to minimize the use of materials. The refill is sealed by thermal or conductive action during the filling process, eliminating the need for a temporary service cap.

Once filled, the Arena jar offers a comfortable user experience, according to its designers. It is suitable for all types of cream. Thanks to its larger diameter than usual cream jars, it's easier to pick up more product with one or more fingers.

Arena is a "Made in Europe" solution, manufactured and decorated at the Quadpack factory in Germany. A wide variety of decoration techniques can be applied to the product to achieve the desired look and texture, including opaque or translucent color injection, screen printing, full-coverage hot stamping and matte lacquering.

Beiersdorf signs partnership agreement with Macro Biologics

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Beiersdorf-HQ-Entrance-Building

Beiersdorf and Macro Biologics, a US bioengineering company, have entered into a multi-year partnership to collaborate on the development of biodegradable antimicrobial peptides with broad application possibilities in skin care and healthcare. At the same time, Beiersdorf joins Macro Biologics as an investor through its venture capital unit Oscar & Paul Corporate.

Collaboration in this dynamic research area will focus on the use of Macro Biologics' antimicrobial "amicidins" in the development of Beiersdorf's innovative products and formulas. Aminicidins act against a wide variety of bacteria: they can help relieve or improve skin conditions, and are also designed for early topical application in the prevention of wound infections. 

The common goal is to create highly effective, safe and sustainable solutions for a variety of application areas within Beiersdorf's brand portfolio, primarily in dermatology and healthcare.

"Through our collaboration with Macro Biologics, we are strengthening Beiersdorf's capacity for innovation, in line with our "Win with Care" strategy, as well as our ambition to remain a leader in the field of climate protection, said Dr Gitta Neufang, Beiersdorf Senior Vice President, Global Research and Development. We are delighted to have found an outstanding partner in this promising field of antimicrobial peptides, who shares our visionary drive for innovation. We look forward to jointly introducing Macro Biologics' advanced technology to the world of skin care and healthcare."

"We are very pleased to partner with Beiersdorf, a global skin care and health giant," said Dr. Michael BevilacquaGeneral Manager and Scientific Director of Macro Biologics. For Macro, this collaboration is a perfect fit, both from a research and a commercial point of view. Beiersdorf's in-depth expertise in product formulation, development and commercialization will enable amicidins to improve people's lives in a variety of contexts. This partnership is based on shared principles, as we both strive to create sustainable value for people and the environment."

Seppic unveils a preview of its new collection of illustration formulations

By
Nicolas Gosse
-

Seppic has chosen to draw inspiration from the cinema and the emotions it evokes to create new cosmetic formulations, notably for the In-cosmetics Global trade show to be held in Amsterdam from April 08 to 10, 2025. 

A collection of six inspiring formulations for skin care, hair care and nutricosmetics will be presented at the show, reminiscent of hit films and offering real sensory experiences.

As a preview, Seppic presents the "Ode to mother Nature" formula. Inspired by the film Avatar, this thick, light-green care cream is nourishing and has a medium to long playtime. After massage, the skin remains soft, comfortable and non-greasy.

This inspiring formula boasts a naturalness profile of 99.1%*. Used as an emulsifier, the organization of Montanov 202 amphiphilic molecules (Arachidyl behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside) into lamellar layers, known as liquid crystals, improves both the stability and skin compatibility of the formulation. As these lipids have a structure similar to that of the skin, Montanov 202-based emulsions offer biomimetic textures.

*in accordance with ISO 16128

Laurent Marteau steps down as CEO of L'Occitane Group

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Laurent Marteau - L'Occitane

L'Occitane Group, the B Corp-certified specialist in high-end sustainable beauty and well-being, has announced Laurent Marteau's decision to step down as CEO and member of the Board of Directors, effective September 16, 2024, to focus more on his personal activities and pursue professional opportunities outside the Group.

The Board of Directors has set up an "Office of the CEO" whose members will manage the day-to-day operations of the company during this transition period. Its members are Reinold Geiger, Chairman and majority shareholder of the L'Occitane Group, Samuel Antunes, Group Chief Financial Officer, and Ingo Dauer, Group General Counsel.

The L'Occitane Group is currently focusing on the transition to new management and governance structures as part of its delisting from the Hong Kong stock exchange, which should be completed by October 16, 2024.

Photo taken from the L'Occitane Group website.

1...848586...306Page 85 of 306

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Consult our media kit

Newsletter