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EcoVadis Gold, CDP Climate Score B and EcoDesignCloud for Cosmogen

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Cosmogen - EcoVadis Gold

Cosmogen, a company with a mission since 2022, joins the top 5% of Ecovadis Gold rated companies after obtaining the CDP SME B for Climate score, and becoming a member of the EcoDesignCloud.

Led by Priscille Allais, its Chairman and CEO since 2019, and supported in its strategy by Weinberg Capital Partners since the end of 2024, Cosmogen - a manufacturer of innovative, patented and responsible application solutions for cosmetics and pharmaceutical brands - is pursuing its roadmap, with societal and environmental responsibility as vectors of motivation, innovation and growth.

The EcoVadis Gold score crowns Cosmogen's efforts and actions in the four themes targeted by the standard: environment, social and human rights, ethics and responsible purchasing. This recognition is reinforced by the CDP's Climate Score B, the highest score awarded in 2024, among companies that have chosen to publish their data transparently in the areas of finance, procurement, investment and policy.

An international non-profit organization, the CDP manages the world's only independent environmental information-sharing system. Through this sharing, its stated aim is to combat the environmental crisis by fuelling a transparent and balanced decision-making process that reduces the impact of actions taken, in order to preserve the planet for future generations.

"One of our major Brazilian customers urged us to take part in the CDP program, which made perfect sense to us. We'd like to thank them for that. Alongside Ecovadis Gold, the results reward the work of the entire Cosmogen team, committed to offering packaging and application solutions that are both high-end and eco-responsible".says Cosmogen.

To help them, the teams, who had been trained in eco-design for over five years, were already using in-house brush life-cycle analysis software to help brands make the right choices. By becoming a member of the EcoDesignCloud, Cosmogen intends to stand out as a committed leader in eco-design, following in the footsteps of L'Oréal and LVMH.

TNT Group designs an original accessory for Sisley

By
Nicolas Gosse
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TNT Goup - Sisley

Specializing in the design, development and manufacture of primary and secondary packaging in metal - zamak, aluminum, brass and stainless steel, in particular - for the perfume, skincare and make-up industries, TNT Group was asked by Sisley to design and produce the massage accessory that accompanies the fragrance. Supremϋa at night, The great anti-aging eye care product. 

Imagined to act on every zone of the eye contour, this original, luxurious massage accessory is made from a single piece of zamak with gold e-coating and matte varnish, signed with the logo. 

TNT Group successfully met the technical challenges imposed by this project: the meticulous polishing of the ends to perfectly respect their rounded shape, the engraving of the logo in the mold, and the resistance of the e-coating and varnish to ensure the durability of the accessory.

The massage tool will be on display at the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024 (#VA10).

Semi-automatic bagging stations

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Gericke bagging_station

Gericke, a Swiss manufacturer of complete dosing, conveying and mixing systems, offers semi-automatic bagging stations for powders and granulates. 

Particularly used for bagging or drumming loads ranging from 500 g to 50 kg, with accuracies of just a few grams, these bagging stations are suitable for powders and granulates with flows ranging from simple to very difficult. They can produce up to 60 bags or drums per hour.

These bagging stations are composed of a precision dosing unit adapted to the product to be processed, a weighing plate associated with its electronics, and a bagging mouth equipped with a bag clamp, an inflatable seal and a dust extraction mouth, thus preventing any dust emission into the operator's work area.

For its customers, Gericke is able to carry out industrial-scale tests at its pilot stations for its entire product range.

An elegant, practical jar for effortless refills

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Arena Jar

Arena, the latest addition to the jar collection from Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, features a wide base and low profile, giving it a distinctive silhouette and minimalist elegance.

The 50-ml jar features a PET outer wall, a PP refill and a PP cap. The two-piece cap is designed to facilitate complex decorations and improve appearance while reducing weight and quantity of materials. PET and PP components can be easily disassembled for recycling.

A discreet notch on the rim of the outer jar makes it easy to remove the inner refill. "The refill concept only works if it's done without fuss, and that's exactly what Arena offers," explains Karen Merchán, Category Manager - Skincare at Quadpack. With its smart notch along the rim, there's no need to stick your fingers into the jar to remove it. Your fingers stay clean and don't slip. It's a highly functional feature that distinguishes Arena's design. 

Refills are heat-sealed to minimize the use of materials. The refill is sealed by thermal or conductive action during the filling process, eliminating the need for a temporary service cap.

Once filled, the Arena jar offers a comfortable user experience, according to its designers. It is suitable for all types of cream. Thanks to its larger diameter than usual cream jars, it's easier to pick up more product with one or more fingers.

Arena is a "Made in Europe" solution, manufactured and decorated at the Quadpack factory in Germany. A wide variety of decoration techniques can be applied to the product to achieve the desired look and texture, including opaque or translucent color injection, screen printing, full-coverage hot stamping and matte lacquering.

Beiersdorf signs partnership agreement with Macro Biologics

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Beiersdorf-HQ-Entrance-Building

Beiersdorf and Macro Biologics, a US bioengineering company, have entered into a multi-year partnership to collaborate on the development of biodegradable antimicrobial peptides with broad application possibilities in skin care and healthcare. At the same time, Beiersdorf joins Macro Biologics as an investor through its venture capital unit Oscar & Paul Corporate.

Collaboration in this dynamic research area will focus on the use of Macro Biologics' antimicrobial "amicidins" in the development of Beiersdorf's innovative products and formulas. Aminicidins act against a wide variety of bacteria: they can help relieve or improve skin conditions, and are also designed for early topical application in the prevention of wound infections. 

The common goal is to create highly effective, safe and sustainable solutions for a variety of application areas within Beiersdorf's brand portfolio, primarily in dermatology and healthcare.

"Through our collaboration with Macro Biologics, we are strengthening Beiersdorf's capacity for innovation, in line with our "Win with Care" strategy, as well as our ambition to remain a leader in the field of climate protection, said Dr Gitta Neufang, Beiersdorf Senior Vice President, Global Research and Development. We are delighted to have found an outstanding partner in this promising field of antimicrobial peptides, who shares our visionary drive for innovation. We look forward to jointly introducing Macro Biologics' advanced technology to the world of skin care and healthcare."

"We are very pleased to partner with Beiersdorf, a global skin care and health giant," said Dr. Michael BevilacquaGeneral Manager and Scientific Director of Macro Biologics. For Macro, this collaboration is a perfect fit, both from a research and a commercial point of view. Beiersdorf's in-depth expertise in product formulation, development and commercialization will enable amicidins to improve people's lives in a variety of contexts. This partnership is based on shared principles, as we both strive to create sustainable value for people and the environment."

Seppic unveils a preview of its new collection of illustration formulations

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Seppic has chosen to draw inspiration from the cinema and the emotions it evokes to create new cosmetic formulations, notably for the In-cosmetics Global trade show to be held in Amsterdam from April 08 to 10, 2025. 

A collection of six inspiring formulations for skin care, hair care and nutricosmetics will be presented at the show, reminiscent of hit films and offering real sensory experiences.

As a preview, Seppic presents the "Ode to mother Nature" formula. Inspired by the film Avatar, this thick, light-green care cream is nourishing and has a medium to long playtime. After massage, the skin remains soft, comfortable and non-greasy.

This inspiring formula boasts a naturalness profile of 99.1%*. Used as an emulsifier, the organization of Montanov 202 amphiphilic molecules (Arachidyl behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside) into lamellar layers, known as liquid crystals, improves both the stability and skin compatibility of the formulation. As these lipids have a structure similar to that of the skin, Montanov 202-based emulsions offer biomimetic textures.

*in accordance with ISO 16128

Laurent Marteau steps down as CEO of L'Occitane Group

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Laurent Marteau - L'Occitane

L'Occitane Group, the B Corp-certified specialist in high-end sustainable beauty and well-being, has announced Laurent Marteau's decision to step down as CEO and member of the Board of Directors, effective September 16, 2024, to focus more on his personal activities and pursue professional opportunities outside the Group.

The Board of Directors has set up an "Office of the CEO" whose members will manage the day-to-day operations of the company during this transition period. Its members are Reinold Geiger, Chairman and majority shareholder of the L'Occitane Group, Samuel Antunes, Group Chief Financial Officer, and Ingo Dauer, Group General Counsel.

The L'Occitane Group is currently focusing on the transition to new management and governance structures as part of its delisting from the Hong Kong stock exchange, which should be completed by October 16, 2024.

Photo taken from the L'Occitane Group website.

3rd consecutive Platinum EcoVadis medal for Fedrigoni

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Fedrigoni_Ecovadis

The Fedrigoni Group wins a Platinum EcoVadis medal for the third year running, with its score rising to 90/100. The group, one of the world's leading players in specialty papers, labels and labelstock, as well as RFID and connected solutions, remains in the world's top % of companies in its category.

The Platinium Medal is the highest distinction awarded by EcoVadis, an international CSR rating agency which each year assesses the environmental and social responsibility activities and management systems of tens of thousands of companies of all sizes and in all industrial sectors worldwide.

"This result is an incentive to continue striving for excellence, together with our stakeholders and customers.comments Marco Nespolo, Group CEO. Every day, and in every area, we strive to achieve our CSR objectives for 2030, with a constant improvement approach guided in particular by the feedback we receive through assessments such as the one carried out by EcoVadis. These indicators enable us to implement corrective actions year after year, improving from one assessment to the next until, in just five years, we have achieved results of which we can be truly proud".

The group's performance in the "environment" category and the improved score in the "sustainable sourcing" category help to explain Fedrigoni's high score. EcoVadis is currently modeling the company's supply chain, so that it can serve as an example for other companies.

Furthermore, in 2024, Fedrigoni confirmed its position as leader in the "carbon management" category, among the companies with the best system for managing climate change issues, with ambitious decarbonization targets set on the basis of a scientific benchmark.

With its "Making Progress" approach, the Italian group has set itself targets for 2030, tracking all progress in a rigorous, transparent and measurable way: a 30 % reduction in CO₂ emissions (a target approved by the SBTI), water consumption to be reduced by 10 % in terms of abstraction (returning 95 % of this clean water to the environment), waste management to enable total circularity (zero waste sent to landfill), and a product offering made up of 100 % Aticelca-certified recyclable special papers and Recyclass-certified self-adhesive materials suitable for recycling or reuse.

Protecting people in their environment

Committed to concrete action on biodiversity and human rights issues, the Fedrigoni Group is also committed to creating a safer, more inclusive working environment. Priorities include accident prevention (in 2023, at Group level, the accident frequency index fell by 17.7 %, from 13.3 to 11), reducing the gender gap (to reach 35 % of management positions held by women) and promoting an inclusive, learning-friendly environment for the company's 6,000 employees. 

In terms of CSR, the company has also been included by S&P Global in the Sustainability Yearbook 2024. Only 8 % of the 9,400 companies assessed in the Corporate Sustainability Assessment 2023 are included.

Evonik develops a new skin microbiome model

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Microbiome - Microorganism in culture
Michelle Dargatz, Simulation & Analysis. Evonik Halle-Künsebeck: As some of the bacterial strains used cannot tolerate oxygen, biotechnologist Michelle Dargatz places them in a suitable culture medium in the absence of oxygen. ---- Michelle Dargatz, Simulation & Analysis. Evonik Halle-Künsebeck: Da einige der eingesetzten Bakterienstämme keinen Sauerstoff vertragen, bringt Biotechnologin Michelle Dargatz sie unter Sauerstoffausschluss in ein geeignetes Kulturmedium.

German company Evonik has developed a new skin microbiome model. According to the company, this model enables scientifically-supported evaluation of the influence of cosmetic ingredients and products on the skin microbiota in laboratory tests. 

Evonik is currently testing cosmetic ingredients from its own product range to obtain factual information on their compatibility with the microbiome. This meets the expectations of cosmetics manufacturers and consumers who are increasingly interested in scientific evidence of the efficacy of cosmetic products. In addition, this data will provide Evonik with a basis for developing cosmetic ingredients that take this information into account.

Evonik points out that the skin microbiome - which includes the bacteria, fungi and viruses present in the skin - varies from person to person. It is exposed to many internal and external influences, from diet to sunlight. The presence of specific bacterial strains is characteristic of certain areas of the skin, which can be described as sebaceous, moist or dry.

"Many modern cosmetics claim to be microbiome-friendly, explains Stefan Pelzer, head of microbiome research at Evonik. However, the tests currently used do not fully reproduce the complexity of the skin microbiome." 

Evonik's new skin microbiome model precisely studies the interactions and mutual interdependencies between microorganisms in the laboratory. To do this, between eight and ten typical skin microbes are grown together. The conditions are chosen so that all strains of bacteria can proliferate and interact. This is a particular strength of this new approach.

Parameters are increases or decreases in biomass and changes in crop diversity for a test substance compared to a control. They are then entered into an evaluation matrix as "microbiome stimulating", "microbiome favorable", "microbiome modulating" or "microbiome detrimental". Any significant change in bacterial diversity is considered detrimental, as the protective function of the skin microbiome depends on the natural balance of microorganisms.

Standardized plates enable 48 individual samples to be studied simultaneously. "Our new model bridges the gap between conventional in vitro tests, which are simple but less meaningful, and in vivo studies on test persons, which take longer."says Stefan Pelzer.

In addition to the coculture model for balanced skin, Stefan Pelzer's team has already developed a model for acne-sensitive skin. Further models will be developed in collaboration with customers from the cosmetics industry. In addition, work to improve complexity has already begun. One possibility would be to combine bacterial cocultures with tissue and cell culture models. Indeed, as Pelzer explains, micro-organisms interact not only with each other, but also with skin cells.

Scientifically-based efficacy claims will be the key to growth in the cosmetics industry. According to a recent study, one in two young consumers gathers detailed information on product benefits and ingredients before buying.

Evonik's expertise lies in its Biotech Hub and Skin Institute. The Biotech Hub brings together the company's biotechnology expertise. The role of the Skin Institute, created in 2023, is to provide proof of dermocosmetic claims for Evonik's current and future portfolio of cosmetic ingredients. 

Photo : © Evonik Industries AG

Nanoparticles: measuring Zeta potential

By
Nicolas Gosse
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SDTech - Zeta potential

SDTech, an expert in fine powders for over 20 years, offers its customers and partners its expertise in Zeta potential, an indicator of the intensity of electrostatic repulsion or attraction between particles.

Zeta potential represents the electrical charge a particle acquires from the cloud of ions surrounding it when in suspension. Its measurement provides an understanding of the causes of dispersion, aggregation or flocculation, and a source of optimization for the formulation of dispersions, emulsions or suspensions. 

To support its customers in the physico-chemical characterization of their suspensions, the company is equipped with a state-of-the-art tool, the "Zetasizer Nano ZS" from Malvern Panalytical. It measures Zeta potential using laser Doppler electrophoresis. The electric field applied to the cell containing the suspension sets the particles or colloids in motion according to their charge. By measuring their speed of movement (or electrophoretic mobility), the Zeta potential can be calculated.

SDTech has drawn up an analysis protocol for each product based on its physico-chemical characteristics and end use.

Zeta potential can be measured as a function of the pH of the medium, its salt, surfactant or electrolyte concentration, and by varying the nature of the additives. The isoelectric point (IEP), the pH at which the Zeta potential is zero, resulting in particle aggregation or flocculation, can also be determined. Identifying these data enables us to predict the behavior of nanoemulsions and nanosuspensions, and to address a wide range of formulation issues.

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