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Using cell culture to assess marine ecotoxicity

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Seaside

"With our test, Innov&Sea is helping to transform the quality and sustainability of solar products and make our partners' business more sustainable."says Pauline Cotinat, president and co-founder of Innov&Sea, who holds a doctorate in marine biology from the Université Côte d'Azur.

Founded in 2023 in Nice as a spin-off from the Institut de recherche sur le cancer et le vieillissement (Ircan), the young company Innov&Sea offers brands and manufacturers the opportunity to assess the impact of their suncare products or raw materials on the marine environment, thanks to an innovative marine ecotoxicity test. "We help companies optimize their product formulations by reducing or eliminating the use of certain controversial ingredients, in order to bring to market products that are as harmless as possible for marine ecosystems".explains Pauline Cotinat.

The test is based on in vitro from academic research based on sea anemone cell culture Anemonia viridisa marine invertebrate that is a recognized indicator of coastal marine ecosystems. "This marine organism, a close relative of corals, lives in symbiosis with a microalga and undergoes the same bleaching phenomenon as reef-building corals, making it a relevant model for assessing the state of health of the marine reef ecosystem".says Pauline Cotinat.

An eco-responsible alternative to animal testing

Innov&Sea's test can be carried out at every stage of formulation, from the selection of cosmetic ingredients to the intermediate stages and finished products. It represents an alternative to animal testing, even on farmed animals, and contributes to the protection of marine biodiversity.

According to its developers, the technology also offers greater repeatability, reliability and accuracy than traditional tests. in vivo The test is fast, with results available in less than twenty days. What's more, the test is fast, with results available in less than 20 days, and can be carried out all year round. 

Towards more sustainable practices

Innov&Sea reports that the test - adopted by several major brands seeking to position themselves in the eco-responsible products market, as well as by producers of cosmetic ingredients - has proved its effectiveness on a wide range of suncare products and on all types of galenic formulations, revealing impacts ranging from slight to irreversible. 

Innov&Sea is supported by CNRS Innovation, Bpifrance and the Provence Côte d'Azur incubator.

Texen earns Platinum EcoVadis rating for 3rd year running

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Texen - EcoVadis Platinium

For the third year running, Texen has been awarded the EcoVadis Platinum Medal with a score of 83/100, an improvement on last year despite more demanding criteria. This places the company in the top 1% of sustainability performers worldwide. Platinum certification is the highest possible recognition in the EcoVadis assessment, which is based on four main criteria: environment, labor and human rights, ethics, and responsible purchasing. 

"Receiving the EcoVadis Platinum award for the third time in a row is a real source of pride for our Group. It reflects our ongoing efforts to integrate sustainability principles into all our activities. We firmly believe that a responsible company is a successful company, and this award encourages us to continue striving for excellence."says François-Xavier Entremont, Group President.

Among the group's many achievements - in line with the UN's main sustainable development goals - is the reduction of 43.5 % in carbon emissions by 2019 thanks to work on scopes 1 and 2. Texen has produced over 80 % of eco-designed offers. Some 88 % of the Group's production sites are ISO 14001 certified. In addition, the equivalent of 778 tonnes of carbon were saved, thanks in particular to the installation of insulating sleeves on presses and photovoltaic panels.

Other emblematic data: 16% of purchases are made through a solidarity-based approach; 85% of the most exposed employees in France and abroad have been trained in business ethics.

Five powders with powerful benefits for the skin combine make-up and skincare

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Givaudan Active Beauty [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils a new generation of active botanical extracts for make-up products. This series of active extracts of 100 % natural origin represents, according to the company, "a significant advance in both performance and skin benefits, guaranteeing color stability and longevity."

Designed using green fractionation, [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection comprises five natural extracts. Highly concentrated in bioactive compounds, these powder extracts offer strong antioxidant properties, and each provides additional benefits for the skin. They are [N.A.S.] Curcuma 7409 (soothing rhizome extract derived from Curcuma longa L.), [N.A.S.] Gardenia 2168 (anti-aging fruit extract derived from Gardenia florida L, [N.A.S.] Spirulina 2183 (lightening algae extract derived from Spirulina platensis G.), [N.A.S.] Radish 1805 (skin-protecting radish extract derived from the root of Raphanus sativus L.) and [N.A.S.] Radish 2364 (anti-glycation radish extract derived from the root of Raphanus sativus L.).

"There is a growing need for ingredients specifically designed for hybrid makeup formulas - ingredients that can be easily incorporated into makeup. Focusing its efforts on sourcing and supply chain of natural ingredients, Givaudan Active Beauty has identified four natural raw materials known for their strong antioxidant potential that also offer proven benefits for the skin, while maintaining makeup performance."explains Fabrice Lefevre, Innovation and Marketing Director.

Givaudan's specific process guarantees the compositional stability of extracts and bioactive compounds, preserving their organoleptic properties and appearance. Oil-dispersible powders deliver their biological efficacy in make-up without compromising performance, intensity or color stability.

Join us at in-cosmetics Latin America - to be held in São Paulo (Brazil) on September 25 and 26, 2024 - to discover Givaudan Active Beauty's new ingredients and marketing concept, S3D Your True Colours, the vegan make-up palette. Givaudan Active Beauty's digital platform dedicated to cosmetic ingredients, uxbeauty.givaudan.com, will also be available to find out more.

Texen Beauty Partners innovates with its new "Moon" mascara collection

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Moon Texen Collection

Mascara remains one of the most popular products among make-up wearers. According to Texen Beauty Partners, the cosmetics industry has seen a marked increase in mascara launches, often accompanied by new concepts.

Revealed at Makeup in New York 2024, Texen Beauty Partners' Moon Collection is a bold statement. Comprising six multifunctional mascaras, it is designed to offer a unique experience for both lashes and brows.

"The choice of the name "Moon" was inspired by the different phases of the moon, which symbolize the different stages of the make-up and eye care routine. Just as the moon changes shape and appearance, the Moon Collection offers a range of mascaras for every moment of the day."says Texen Beauty Partners.

An innovative, multifunctional collection 

Each of the six mascaras in the Moon Collection is designed to meet specific needs in terms of morphology or desired make-up results, whether to enhance lashes or structure brows.

Thanks to original, ergonomic applicators, the make-up gesture is reinvented, offering easy, precise application.

What's more, according to Texen Beauty Partners, the collection features a perfect connection between gesture, formula, brush and wringer, for an optimized user experience.

Redesigned packaging and an eco-responsible approach

The Moon Collection packs are designed without ABS, POM or POK, thus reducing environmental impact. In addition, four of the six packs feature 2-in-1 functionality, helping to reduce waste.

The "reduce" and "reuse" aspects are at the heart of the collection. The "Full Moon" mascara, for example, eliminates the need to use cotton for conventional make-up removal, thus reducing the amount of waste generated. With capacities ranging from 6.5 ml to 10.5 ml, the packs have also been designed to reduce environmental impact.

"This collection offers lash care, black mascaras with applicators and accessories to make make makeup easier, colored liners and mascaras and a wonderful makeup remover mascara!"explains Nathasha Marquez, Trading Marketing Manager at Texen Beauty Partners in her tutorial.

An innovative gear pump

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Canna.pump

Designed and manufactured in Germany by Beinlich Pumpen, a manufacturer of high-precision dosing and transfer pumps, the new Canna.pump external gear pump stands out for its ease of cleaning, sterilization and disassembly, meeting the requirements of high-quality extraction processes for precious active ingredients such as cannabis.

Designed to meet the requirements of the food industry, the Canna.pump is easy to clean and sterilize. Its design allows rapid disassembly, facilitating maintenance and reducing downtime.

Equipped with stainless steel clamp connections, it is robust and durable. The pump withstands temperatures from -20 to +215°C and pressures up to 60 bar. Its self-priming function removes viscous and sticky residues from vacuum chambers. 

Its various customizable sealing options and the availability of explosion-proof motors, guaranteeing safe use in a variety of environments, make it adaptable and safe.

According to Beinlich Pumpen, the Canna.pump excels in the extraction of active ingredients, notably cannabidiol (CBD) and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), meeting the specific needs of the cannabis industry. It is suitable for vacuum processes, enabling solvents to be vaporized at lower temperatures to preserve the quality of heat-sensitive substances. The Canna.pump is also efficient for handling solvents such as ethanol, CO2 and hydrocarbons.

Suco-VSE France, a subsidiary of German ETIs Suco Robert Scheuffele GmbH & Co KG and VSE Volumentechnik GmbH since 1999, provides technical and commercial support for all products manufactured by the two parent companies and their subsidiaries, including Beinlich Pumps.

Technical specifications :
- Displacement from 1.43 to 72.00 cm3/rev
- Viscosity capacity up to 750,000 mPa.s.
- Operation with discharge pressure up to 60 bar, and suction pressure from -0.6* to +25 bar.
*The shaft seal is compatible with vacuum applications.

Floribis and Coverpla present Flo's Workshop 

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Coverpla Floribis

Floribis has been growing Bourbon vanilla for 20 years. Buoyed by its reputation as a demanding and committed vanilla supplier, Floribis launched Atelier de Flo, its own brand of perfumes and cosmetics based on Madagascan plant materials, on the European market. With Bourbon vanilla at the center, the company is innovating to integrate this precious essence.

Bazille Rétro 100 ml, a Nissa cap with matching stripes for the women's version, a matte black Wally cap for the men's version, and shiny gold-tinted pumps and pump covers for both products: Coverpla was asked to design a signature product available in four fragrances: three targeting women and a fourth, more masculine version. The collection was born in Coverpla's Nice showroom, around a clever mix and match. The idea was to give the collection a signature in line with market trends. 

Generous shapes, gentle curves, the distinctive charm of the striations formed in the glass and surlyn, and a more masculine black hood for the men's version... this project is the result of close collaboration between Floribis and Coverpla, two companies that share common values and objectives. 

Creed's "Queen of Silk": an elegant purple bottle

By
Nicolas Gosse
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Queen of Silk - Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie

"Queen of Silk", Creed's new fragrance, is available in 30 ml and 75 ml bottles produced by Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie.

Each bottle bears witness to Creed's exacting standards of luxury and precision. "The design, inspired by the luxurious nature of silk, is a perfect blend of refined glass construction, elaborate decorations and precise color harmonization."says Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie.

Housed in Creed's iconic bottle, "Queen of Silk" boasts a rich violet hue, a nod to the precious fabrics historically reserved for society's elite. A color that represented a challenge for the bottle-maker: obtaining the exact shade is the fruit of a complex process, requiring meticulous attention to detail and a thorough understanding of color dynamics.

The bottle features the Creed logo elegantly etched into the glass, serving as a tactile and visual marker of authenticity and sophistication. A delicate gold motif printed by hot stamping carries the fragrance's name. Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie says the 30 ml version was particularly difficult to produce, requiring exceptional precision to perfectly apply the motif in the limited space between the Creed logo and the bottom of the bottle.

Silab, EcoVadis Platinum Medal

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
SILAB_EcoVadis 2024

Silab maintains its Platinum status with EcoVadis and confirms its position in the top % of companies rated best in the world by the rating platform.

Committed to a path of progress, the French manufacturer of natural active ingredients achieves a higher EcoVadis score than the previous year, and thus achieves an "excellent" performance for the first time in all areas assessed (Environment, Social & Human Rights, Ethics and Responsible Purchasing). 

"We are delighted to have been awarded the EcoVadis Platinum Medal again this year. This recognition reflects our ongoing commitment to responsible business practices that respect people and the environment. In fact, over and above our legal obligations, we take initiatives to improve our CSR practices across the entire value chain".comments Jean-Philippe Cosson, Silab's Managing Director in charge of CSR.

The strategy defining Silab's CSR program and its actions in terms of sustainable strategy, human potential development, responsible sourcing, environmental preservation and community support are available on the eco-designed Actively Caring website: https://activelycaring.silab.fr/fr

Bris Rocher, new chairman of the Green Impact Index association

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Green Impact Index

Meeting on September 6, 2024, the members of the Green Impact Index association approved the renewal of the consortium's Board of Directors as part of its commitment to rotative and participative governance. Bris Rocher, Chairman of the Rocher Group, was appointed Chairman of the consortium.

A tool for environmental and societal labelling of cosmetics, wellness and family health products developed by 22 players in the sector, the Green Impact Index provides consumers with information on the environmental and societal impact of products marketed by consortium members. 

The Green Impact Index tool is based on the Afnor Spec 2215 methodology, developed in collaboration with Afnor Normalisation. Product scores are calculated on the basis of 50 criteria (formula, packaging, manufacturing, transport, use, social issues). The product's impact is represented by a rating graduated from A to E. 

By making the impact of their products more transparent, the companies in the consortium aim to contribute to the continuous improvement of their value chains.

"I'm proud to be elected Chairman of the Green Impact Index consortium, which has developed a visionary method and tool for our industries. Our ambition is to become the reference standard, and it is through the strength of the collective that we will be able to accelerate the development of ever more sustainable practices, and help consumers make informed choices. I therefore invite companies of all sizes to join us in this great transformation.said Bris Rocher.

Eric Ducournau, former president and new secretary of the consortium, spoke about his work: "I'm deeply convinced of the relevance of our tool and the AFNOR Spec 2215 method for our companies, consumers and society as a whole. We need to step up our efforts to make it known and adopted by as many companies as possible, and I will continue to play an active part in this.

The consortium's ambition is to make the Green Impact Index the reference standard for environmental and societal labelling of cosmetics, wellness and family health products, and thus transform the industry towards a more sustainable model.

The appointment of Bris Rocher, President of Le Rocher since 2009, is a fitting one. A pioneer in plant-based cosmetics, the Rocher group became in 2019, under Bris Rocher's impetus, the first international group to adopt Entreprise à Mission status, setting a precedent for French industry.

A new governance elected for two years:
- Chairman : Bris Rocher, Chairman of Groupe Rocher
- Vice-Chairman: Stéphane Labattut, General Manager, Léa Nature Cosmétiques
- Secretary: Eric Ducournau, General Manager, Pierre Fabre Group
- Vice-secretary: Aurélie Guyoux, Arkopharma R&D Director
- Treasurer: Maxime Gransart, Executive Vice President, Technicoflor
- Vice-Treasurer: Marguerite Guillou, CSR & Quality Manager, Green Family

Halal-certified Vytrus Biotech ingredients

By
Nicolas Gosse
-
Vytrus Biotech - Halal certification

Vytrus Biotech, a Spanish company specializing in active ingredients derived from plant biotechnology for the cosmetics industry, has announced that its ingredients are now Halal-certified. 

Vytrus Biotech - Halal logo certification

"We are delighted to have obtained halal certification for our ingredients, said Oscar Expósito, CEO, CSO and co-founder of Vytrus Biotech. This certification is in line with our mission to offer innovative, sustainable and ethically produced ingredients. It enables us to meet the needs of our customers in the Muslim community and those who appreciate Halal-certified products."

The certification includes a rigorous assessment of the entire production process, ensuring that every step, from raw material sourcing to the final product, complies with Halal requirements. It opens up new markets for Vytrus Biotech, enabling the company to address a wider audience and meet the growing demand for high-quality, ethically produced ingredients. 

Halal certification is becoming increasingly important in the global cosmetics industry. It guarantees that products meet the expectations of Muslim consumers, who want to be sure that the items they use are authorized by Islamic law. 

Vytrus' Halal-certified active ingredients are now available to cosmetics brands seeking to develop products for the Halal market. This certification opens up new prospects for collaboration and growth in regions where Halal products are in high demand.

Main photo from Vytrus Biotech's 2021 business report.

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