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Expanscience announces an organic version of one of its anti-aging active ingredients

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The editorial staff
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Lupin

"At Expanscience, our environmental commitment is at the heart of our approach. With CO₂llageneer Bio, we combine innovation, naturalness and sustainability to offer our consumers an increasingly responsible beauty solution that respects the skin and our planet", says Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Cosmetic Active Ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience. 

CO₂llageneer Bio represents an active ingredient combining naturalness and efficacy, meeting the expectations of consumers looking for certified organic and environmentally-friendly products. 

An active ingredient made in France, certified organic and upcycled 

A member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical Biotrade) since 2011, Expanscience is committed to continuous improvement. Relocating our sourcing and revising the extraction process for one of our flagship active ingredients will enable us to meet the expectations of consumers who are concerned about the origin and impact of cosmetic products. 

CO₂llageneer Bio is thus an organic version certified to 95.4 % by Ecocert Greenlife according to the COllageneer Cosmos standard. This new active ingredient is obtained by a CO2 supercritical. 

It is based on a concentration of lupeol, extracted from French sweet white lupin seeds, sourced in Western France. This active molecule is then combined with organic oleic sunflower oil, sourced in France, offering a 100 % made in France active ingredient, in line with the expectations of local, more responsible consumption. 

Derived from a co-product of the agri-food industry, the asset is also part of an upcycling and zero-waste approach.

Unchanged efficiency

Specifications remain identical, offering continuity in the product's benefits. According to Expanscience, CO₂llageneer Bio maintains its proven efficacy.

Testing in vitro have been carried out. They demonstrate the effects of the active ingredient as a well-ageing agent, stimulating collagen synthesis to improve skin elasticity, reshape and firm areas prone to sagging. The active ingredient stimulates the production of high-quality collagen by activating the chaperone protein HSP47 (Heat Shock Protein), contributing to its optimal organization and structure. 

Alfaparf, Naturopera and Superga Beauty take over the activities of the Eugène Perma group

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The editorial staff
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Eugène Perma

Alfaparf Milano, Naturopera and Superga Beauty have joined forces to bid for the Eugène Perma group, which has gone into receivership. 

The Eugène Perma group (sales €80 million), a specialist in hair coloring and care in supermarkets with its iconic brands (Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio, Biorène, Laurence Dumont, Loua), had been experiencing difficulties for several years in the face of the health crisis, inflation and competition from international giants. The group has been in receivership since August 1, 2023.

Alfaparf Milano, an Italian group which distributes hairdressing and beauty products in over 120 countries via some twenty subsidiaries, is adding brands from the hairdressing circuit (Carmen, Solaris, etc.) to its portfolio.

A French SME with 100 employees and estimated sales of €40 million in 2023, Naturopera is taking over Eugène Perma's GMS activities, with brands such as Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio and Biorène. Known for its baby and feminine hygiene brands, "Naturopera is writing an exciting new chapter in its history. We are extremely proud to welcome Eugène Perma's emblematic brands. This acquisition marks a major strategic step in our commitment to innovation and quality, reinforcing our position as the leader in "made in France" fragrance hygiene. We are proud to carry on this heritage, combining sustainability and excellence to offer our consumers an unrivalled experience in the world of hygiene, beauty and hair care", say Geoffroy Blondel de Joigny and Kilian O'Neill, founders of Naturopera. 

After opening its ecological baby diaper factory in Hauts-de-France just over a year ago, Naturopera, founded in 2013, was able to count on the support of financial partners (BPIFrance, Caisse d'Epargne, Société Générale) who saw the growth potential of such a takeover. With "PME+" and "BioEd" (Bio Entreprise durable) CSR certification, the young company intends to give priority to natural, eco-designed ingredients. It specifies that transparency towards consumers will be ensured by reworked product compositions. The company will also be supporting local development by promoting "Made in France", working with over 80 % French suppliers and service providers.

Superga Beauty is taking over Eugène Perma's Parchimy plant near Reims. This site includes 12 manufacturing tanks, 10 packaging lines and an in-house laboratory to carry out all process controls, and benefits from an Atex-secured platform. The French "beauty supplier" thus acquires a new tool and integrates expertise in hair care and coloring products to its perfumery and skincare know-how. 

In total, the consortium will maintain the jobs of 213 employees, i.e. 90 % of the current workforce. In this respect, it was the best bidder compared with the other bidders.

"We are three experts in our circuits, three family-run businesses that guarantee continuity and are aligned with the values of the Eugène Perùma Group. We are aware that a great deal of work needs to be done in all three businesses to restore the group's impetus and dynamism. For us, the fact that we are working as a trio is a guarantee of resources and success: each business line is entrusted to dedicated experts who are committed to investing fully in the continuation and maintenance of each business line.explains Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

As part of this takeover, Superga Beauty has signed a five-year exclusive production agreement with Naturopera and Alfaparf Milano. Products for the various Eugène Perma brands will continue to be manufactured in France at the Parchimy site, which will become Beauty Champagne Ardenne (BCA). 

In addition to the hair care products traditionally manufactured and packaged in Reims, the group plans to open up the business to subcontracting, particularly in the care sector. The site has the capacity to produce large batches, in excess of ten tons. The stated objective is to add 10 million parts to the plant within the next two years. 

"The Superga Beauty group has an ambitious project, and we are going to demonstrate, as with our previous projects, our strength as well as our willingness to transform a brand factory into a subcontracting plant, while preserving French know-how in cosmetics. This takeover will enable us to immediately increase our production capacity for skincare and hygiene products, and to develop our expertise in hair coloring and hair care.stresses Leslie Bréau Meniger. I have every confidence in the success of this project. We demonstrated our commercial strength with the Cosmeurop takeover project. I believe in subcontracting and its development, and in our customers' desire to develop French manufacturing."

Gattefossé wins an award at in-cosmetics Asia

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The editorial staff
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Gattefossé - In cosmetics Asia

"We're delighted that our product has been so well received by Asian customers, proving that products for sensitive skin are not just fashionable, but a real need for consumers. Environmental changes and parents' desire to offer their children soothing products are prompting formulators to seek out innovative, multi-functional ingredients. Emulium Dermolea MB enables the development of a wide range of cosmetic applications suitable for all skin types and climates "said Angelito Delos Reyes, Managing Director of the Gattefossé Asia Pacific subsidiary.

Launched in April 2023 at in-cosmetics global, Emulium Dermolea MB was awarded a gold medal at in-cosmetics Asia in the functional ingredient category of the innovation zone, after winning best functional ingredient at in-cosmetics Korea, and silver at in-cosmetics Latin America.

Emulium Dermolea MB is an O/W emulsifier of plant origin developed by Gattefossé, a specialist in natural cosmetic ingredients for the beauty and health industries.

According to Gattefossé, Emulium Dermolea MB reduces skin stress and provides lasting relief thanks to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. Highly moisturizing and protective, it reinforces the skin's barrier function. Used at a rate of 4 %, this multifunctional ingredient is suitable for all skin types and climates.

To create Emulium Dermolea MB, Gattefossé turned to candelilla wax, rice bran wax and jojoba wax, selected for their complementary properties and functionalized with polyglycerol-3.

Dsm-firmenich unveils a fragrance inspired by the Pantone color of the year, Peach Fuzz

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The editorial staff
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Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz

Dsm-firmenich, an innovator in the fields of nutrition, health and beauty, has once again teamed up with Pantone, the global authority on communication and inspiration through color, to create an aroma (Peach+) and a fragrance (Peach Fuzz Eau de Parfum, EDP) - accompanied by its candle, inspired by Pantone's color of the year 2024, Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz. 

Peach Fuzz EDP scored AAA on the EcoScent Compass, dsm-firmenich's exclusive tool for measuring fragrance sustainability.

"Peach Fuzz Eau de Parfum is a velvety-smooth peach fragrance whose encompassing spirit enriches mind, body and soul. To convey an authentic sense of tenderness, it harnesses the power of EmotiON, our innovative program that supports the creation of fragrances with scientifically validated emotional, psychological and physical benefits."says dsm-firmenich. 

"Pantone's Color of the Year is always a great source of inspiration, with its fresh and insightful look at current social trends, complementing our consumer and market knowledge. This partnership gives us the opportunity and challenge to connect our creativity, science and innovation capabilities to what's happening in the world and translate it into the universal language of fragrance, to inspire customers and consumers alike."says Matteo Magnani, Chief Consumer & Innovation Officer, Perfumery & Beauty, at dsm-firmenich. 

Alexandra Monet, based in New York, and Steve Guo, based in China, worked together to create Peach Fuzz EDP.  "We loved the idea of creating a fragrance that authentically captures the texture and quality of a peach, one that can have universal resonance."explains Alexandra Monet. "We wanted to express a sense of skin and notions of intimacy, security and comfort. We were inspired to create a tactile peach fragrance with a skin feel."adds Steve Guo.

Unveiled during an immersive, multi-sensory experience at Pantone's launch party in New York, Peach Fuzz EDP features, according to dsm-firmenich, soft, playful top notes of sparkling bergamot and osmanthus, a heart composed of notes of iris and orange blossom, and a cocoon base with Haiti vetiver and brilliant amber.

A range of lipsticks certified organic and 100 % of natural origin

By
The editorial staff
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Lipstick - Comme Avant

The young Comme Avant brand has carved out a place for itself in the solid cosmetics market. In keeping with its approach - handcrafted products with a short composition - it has just launched the first reference of its future make-up range: a range of organic lipsticks, handmade in its workshop near Marseille.

It took the SME a year of R&D to develop these lipsticks, now available in four colors: brick, brown, plum and amber orange. 

The originality of this range: a short composition and products of natural origin. Exit shark liver oil (squalene), beeswax, lanolin, titanium dioxide and petroleum-derived ingredients. Murumuru butter, candelilla wax, mineral pigment, castor oil, plant-based film-forming agent...: only five ingredients are used in the composition of Comme Avant lipsticks, with an original emollient present in the pigment to ensure its proper dispersion.

For its lipsticks, the brand has also opted for refillable kraft packaging to reduce waste in the bathroom.

With its twelve types of solid cosmetics (soaps, shampoos, toothpastes, deodorants, sun creams, etc.) and other organic products (natural household products and textiles), this family-run SME is recording strong growth. And the company has no shortage of projects. To develop its make-up range, a solid mascara is currently being studied. "As Avant is reinventing a product that our grandmothers used, it will be developed with respect for people and the planet.says company co-founder Sophie Lauret. See you in 2024 to discover this new product!

Verpack receives an EcoVadis gold medal for its PLV 37 site

By
The editorial staff
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Verpack

The Verpack Group is pursuing its policy of continuous improvement across all its entities. PLV 37, the latest site to join the group, has been awarded its very first EcoVadis medal.

Based near Tours, the site joins the club of 5 % top-rated companies in its category worldwide, with an overall score of 74 out of 100. 

site-industries-cosmetiques Ecodias has been awarded a Gold Sustainability rating by EcoVadis.

This gold medal rewards PLV 37 for the initiatives it has undertaken since its recent integration into the Group, and its dynamic approach to CSR. Among the four items examined, ethics and responsible purchasing come out on top.

Digital printing, silk-screening, laminating, die-cutting, gilding, folding and gluing... With some twenty employees, PLV 37 is distinguished by its multi-faceted expertise. With this new site, Verpack completes its range of services covering the entire graphics chain, as well as the development of short-run cases and boxes.

The Verparck Group's entities are committed to a shared social and environmental responsibility dynamic. Each site has its own identity, history, know-how, and human and technological maturity, and each pursues its own approach to excellence at its own pace, drawing on the experience and cohesion of the group as a whole.

Robertet acquires Sonarome

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Essential oils and flowers on a white surface. The delicate aroma of these essential oils and the vibrant colors of the flowers create a soothing ambience in any space. Whether used for relaxation or as a

Based in Grasse, France, the Robertet group has announced the acquisition of Sonarome, a major player in the Indian flavor market.

This acquisition is Robertet's 6th external growth operation in five years. With this acquisition, the company consolidates its presence in South-East Asia, while developing its industrial capacities to serve its customers in the region.

Sonarome is a family-owned company based in Bangalore, specializing in the manufacture of flavors and fragrances. The company is renowned for its R&D strategy, in-depth knowledge of local trends and long-standing relationships with industry leaders.

"With our unique positioning in natural products, our new local industrial capacity and our strengthened expertise in flavours, we have everything we need to become a major player in this specific market.said Jérôme Bruhat, Robertet's Managing Director.

Fruit active ingredients to get rid of imperfections

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The editorial staff
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Cultiv

Since 2020, Cultiv has sought to enhance the value of French agricultural crops. Local crops - such as beet, spinach, chicory, wheat, barley and rye - have revealed active ingredients that can be applied to the body. After several months of research, Cultiv has identified ways of assimilating these active ingredients to create cosmetics with targeted, immediate action, as well as dietary supplements for more global, long-term action.

The organic cosmetics start-up, which counts agricultural cooperative union InVivo as a shareholder, is offering three new products designed to combat skin imperfections. They are developed from fruit.

Pure-Protect cream absorbs excess sebum, leaving skin matt and comfortable thanks to a high level of hydration, while its concentration of beta carotene restores radiance to the complexion.

With its watery texture and fresh, fruity fragrance providing an immediate sensation of freshness, Pure-Boost anti-blemish face serum reduces redness, spots and mild acne in particular. According to Cultiv, its action reduces complexion imperfections and irregularities, regulates sebum production and restores radiance.

Gummies complete the Pure range. According to the startup, these chewing gum dietary supplements help reduce blemishes and spots, rebalance the skin and restore radiance to the complexion. 

Cultiv - fruit
Cultiv fruit actives

"Skin problems don't always stop at adolescence. When we launched Cultiv, we were determined to treat ALL skin needs. After dehydrated skin, then mature skin, we studied the problems of combination to oily skin to offer a new routine that treats imperfections and provides long-term protection. Our researchers have developed a unique combination of fruit extracts and co-products from organic French fruits, formulated in In&Out to provide in-depth action to regulate sebum, reduce pores and imperfections, and restore skin balance (matifying, moisturizing), says Laure-Anne, co-founder of Cultiv. Accompanying our consumers at every stage of their lives is our priority, and with Pure, we're starting a new approach for problem skin to finally draw a line under everyday imperfections."

Cfic 2023: a success!

By
The editorial staff
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Cfic Lyon

The Carrefour des fournisseurs de l'industrie cosmétique (Cfic), a meeting place for industrial solutions in the cosmetics industry dedicated to the sector's major transitions, was held at the same time as Prod&Pack, on November 21 and 22, 2023 at Eurexpo Lyon. Read the report.

 "With sales of €30.4 billion and an international market share of 15 %, the cosmetics sector is one of the jewels in the crown of French industry. This sector of excellence has not escaped the major changes transforming our industrial landscape, and more than ever must reinvent itself in the face of consumer aspirations and demands: 67 % of French people prefer cosmetics brands that are committed to the environment, 80 % of French consumers are looking for cosmetics made in France," points out the company's CEO. Julie Voyer, Cfic Director. These observations give rise to new opportunities, conducive to meetings and business development. It is for this very reason that we decided to create the Carrefour des fournisseurs de l'industrie cosmétique (Cfic), with the support and expertise of our partner Cosmed.

Focused on the challenges facing companies in the cosmetics sector, Cfic has set out to develop concrete solutions to support manufacturers in the transition to a greener, more energy-efficient, digital and socially responsible world, by offering solutions covering the entire industry value chain: ingredients, packaging, digital solutions and services, materials and equipment...

Over two days, some 150 exhibitors showcased their innovative or value-added solutions for the environment, demonstrating the energy benefits of their products and the traceability/readability advantages of their offering for the end consumer.

Great initiatives

The high point of the Cfic is the Cfic Awards, an event that represents a tremendous opportunity to identify innovations and new ideas, to identify suppliers capable of questioning and adapting, to detect future partners, to identify new levers for growth, and to conquer new markets.

This first edition of the Cfic Awards highlighted innovations already available on the market, as well as prototypes, divided into four categories: environmental transition, energy transition, digital & digital transition, and societal transition. Twenty-six services and products (from 22 companies) were in the running. Five prizes were awardedone in each category, plus a Jury's Favourite award.

A different approach to transitions

A unique concept means different content! That's what the Cfic conferences are all about. The challenges facing cosmetics manufacturers were confronted with the visions of experts from a wide range of fields! An opportunity to learn from other experiences and explore new avenues with inspiring speakers.

Nearly 200 people attended the conferences, most of which were packed to capacity.

Jobs and training: schools and students in attendance

Over the two days of the event, five schools welcomed companies, young people and job-seekers with a common goal - to promote the attractiveness of the cosmetics industry through their national networks.

At the heart of the educational establishments' concerns: identifying talent and raising awareness of work-study programs and training courses.

The young participants, for their part, sought to discover the industry's professions, explore existing training courses and meet the manufacturers who are recruiting.

In all, Prod&Pack and Cfic exhibitors posted over 100 job offers at the show! All job offers remain available on the salon-cfic.com website, Employment & Training page.

See you on December 3 and 4, 2024 for the next edition of Cfic, in Orléans!

Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) will be held from March 20 to 22, 2024

By
The editorial staff
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PCHi

The next edition of Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) will be held from March 20 to 22, 2024 at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center, China. Building on the remarkable growth of China's beauty and personal care market, PCHi 2024 promises to be a landmark event, bringing together industry leaders, esteemed academics and influential government representatives to explore the latest trends and innovations.

According to forecasts by research firm Statista, China's beauty and personal care market revenues are expected to reach $60.17 billion in 2023. This growth is expected to continue at a sustained annual rate of 5.03 % (CAGR 2023-2028), with the industry focusing on R&D and innovation.

The gateway to China's personal care industry

Conference, new product showcase, sessions on new technologies, PCHi Fountain Awards: networtking, knowledge sharing and business development will be the order of the day. 

The PCHi Sustainability Zone, the Beauté Gourmet experiential zone and the Toxicological Testing Zone will also be back.

"We're pulling out all the stops to make PCHi 2024 an unprecedented experience.said a spokesperson for Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions, the event organizer. As the industry continues to thrive and evolve, PCHi remains the definitive gateway to China's thriving beauty and personal care market, providing a rewarding platform that facilitates knowledge exchange, fosters deeper industry insight and enables business opportunities for all participants, regardless of their functional role."

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