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A natural solution to regulate skin inflammation and reduce acne lesions

Kularis

Vidya Europe, the European subsidiary of the Indian Vidya group, based in Eure et Loir (production units) and the south-west Paris region (head office, R&D center and logistics platform), is recognized for its expertise in standardized botanical extracts.

The company has unveiled Kūlaris, an innovative natural solution to regulate skin inflammation and reduce acne lesions by strengthening the skin barrier.

Kūlaris combines guggul resin (Commiphora mukul) from India, rich in guggulsterones, to konjac root extract (Amorphophallus konjac) from Japan, a natural source of glucosylceramides, for synergistic anti-inflammatory and restorative action with clinically proven efficacy.

The advantages of Kūlaris are many:

  • 4% Guggulsterone (guggul): powerful anti-inflammatory active ingredient recognized for its effectiveness on skin disorders linked to excess sebum and hormonal imbalances.
  • 0.5% Glucosylceramides (konjac): help restore the skin barrier, limit transepidermal water loss and improve skin texture.
  • Synergistic action: reduces imperfections, soothes inflammatory flare-ups, supports clearer, more resistant and balanced skin.

"Formulated without GMOs, without major allergens and 100 % of plant origin, Kūlaris meets the expectations of consumers concerned about a clean, effective and body-friendly approach."the company says.

Syensqo inaugurates its new microbiology laboratory in Lyon

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman in a white lab coat and goggles stands in a microbiology laboratory in Lyon, reaching for scientific equipment and laboratory supplies laid out on a table in front of her.

Syensqo, a global specialist in advanced materials and specialty chemicals, inaugurated its new state-of-the-art microbiology, (eco-)toxicology and biotechnology laboratory in Lyon on June 12, 2025. 

According to the company, this new facility represents the Group's largest microbiology laboratory worldwide, and is intended to serve as a reference center in this field. It strengthens Syensqo's biodegradability and (eco-)toxicology testing capabilities at the earliest stages of product development, accelerating the development of safe, environmentally-friendly products via its growth platform for renewable materials and biotechnology.

The new 550 m2 laboratory will work closely with other Syensqo laboratories around the world to enhance Syensqo's ability to meet customer needs by improving testing efficiency and reducing time-to-market. Equipped with advanced capabilities and machine learning, the laboratory will support the development of biodegradable solutions by design, particularly in the cosmetics, household products, agrochemicals, adhesives and materials markets. As part of the company's commitment to sustainability, the laboratory has been built incorporating key initiatives that have reduced net electricity consumption by 35 % and cut CO2 emissions by 36 %.

By aiming for GLP (Good Laboratory Practice) accreditation, expected in the second half of the year, the laboratory will also support product registration. What's more, with its expertise in assessing the biodegradability of a wide range of products that are usually difficult to test, it will also be able to support its customers and partners via a service model. Its biodegradability testing capacity will increase tenfold compared with 2021.

"Our new microbiology laboratory considerably strengthens our ability to create safe, biodegradable solutions.explains Thomas Canova, Head of Research and Innovation and Head of Renewable Materials and Biotechnology Growth Platform at Syensqo. Thanks to advanced testing methods, digital capabilities and increased accuracy and efficiency, we're accelerating the development of sustainable solutions that meet our customers' evolving needs."

[video] LipoTrue: the development of new, highly effective ingredients

site-industries-cosmetiques A modern laboratory equipped with LipoTrue scientific equipment and machines on white benches, glass containers, cables and screens. The wall reads "science and biotechnology". The room is clean, well-lit and focused on high efficiency and new ingredients.

The Spanish company LipoTrue specializes in the development of highly effective active ingredients for the cosmetics market. Meet the company's R&D and production departments, and look back on their two latest launches.

Research & Development

Production

Launches

The innovations of the MakeUp in Paris IT Awards soon to be unveiled

MakeUpinParis

The countdown is on for the 15th anniversary edition of MakeUp in Paris 2025, which will take place on June 18 and 19, 2025, at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. The finalists for the IT Awards, which recognize Makeup and Skincare innovation, are now known. 

Some 62 exhibitors presented 114 new products in four categories: accessories, formulation & ingredients, full-service, and packaging. 

After rigorous evaluation and extensive testing, the jury of experts has selected 29 finalists, five of whom will receive an IT Award.  

The cross-category "Ocean Beauty" award will highlight innovations that exploit marine resources to create natural products while preserving the ocean ecosystem. Among the new products presented, 23 are competing in this category.

Visitors' favorite: the 6th IT Awards category!

On June 18, attendees will have the opportunity to vote for their favorite product from among the innovations presented in the IT Awards area. This special public award, a true reflection of current trends and emotions, will complement the official categories. The results will be announced at the end of the day, at the awards ceremony on Wednesday June 18 at 6:00 pm.

Discover the finalists by following this link:
https://www.makeup-in-paris.com/fr/programme-animations/it-awards

Silab: a new active ingredient, a natural bulwark against skin dryness

SILAB_NEOLIPYL

Developed by Silab, Neolipyl is a natural repairing active ingredient derived from cornflower that rebalances the lipid matrix of dry skin. Combined with retinol on normal skin, it also limits the undesirable effects of this molecule and supports its cosmetic benefits.

The lipid matrix ensures the skin's protective action against external aggressors. Drawing on its dual expertise in omics technologies (lipidomic studies) and optical biopsies, Silab has developed an unprecedented modeling study to establish the lipid signature of dry skin: the results show a weakening in the composition and structure of the lipid matrix. 

Tested on this model, Neolipyl rebalances this lipid matrix: epidermal lipid synthesis is restored, and their conformation and organization are optimized. 

Comprehensive repair action

Silab indicates that by targeting the lipid disorders of dry skin, Neolipyl restores the integrity of the cutaneous barrier. These effects translate into benefits observed on dry Caucasian and Asian skin after 14 days of twice-daily application: microrelief is smoothed, and skin hydration and comfort are improved. Comparative studies have demonstrated niacinamide-like efficacy.

Neolipyl is also an asset when using retinol on normal skin. Formulated in association with this molecule, the active ingredient limits its undesirable effects (dryness, discomfort, redness, etc.), without altering its anti-wrinkle efficacy. Neolipyl also significantly improves retinol's beneficial effect on complexion radiance.

A certified organic raw material 

Neolipyl has been developed from the flowering tops of the cornflower, a raw material sourced from certified organic farms in France. The proline-rich peptide fraction was extracted using a natural enzymatic engineering process.

A patented active ingredient recommended for all skin barrier care products at a dose of 0.5 to 2 %, it is available in an easy-to-formulate aqueous solution. It complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Yves Rocher launches a solid shower gel

Yves Rocher - Solid Shower Gel

Yves Rocher continues its commitment to more responsible beauty and a reduced environmental footprint for its products with the launch of a solid shower gel. "This new reference aims to make sustainable skincare routines more accessible, while preserving the brand's standards of efficacy and sensoriality."says the company.

According to the brand, which was adopted by more than 810,000 customers in 2024, the solid care offer prevented 74 tonnes of plastic from being placed on the market over the year, equivalent to 2.5 million plastic water bottles.1.

This result illustrates the Group's strategy to reduce single-use packaging, with a target of -30 % of plastic by 2030.2. In this context, Yves Rocher is implementing other concrete levers through its "committed gestures" range which, in addition to solid cosmetics, includes some forty references with reduced plastic impact compared to liquid alternatives such as eco-refills.

Since September 2024, the brand has been testing a deposit system for glass products in three pilot stores in Rennes and Paris. The initiative already involves 70,000 customers, and collects one in ten of the products concerned.

A solid shower gel

For 65 years, Yves Rocher has been developing an offer at the crossroads of science and plants. This approach guides the brand's commitments in terms of formulation, environmental responsibility and sensorial experience. The transition to solid formats embodies this vision: to offer products that are effective, more natural and more sustainable, while making them attractive, pleasant to use and accessible to as many people as possible.

The Yves Rocher range of solid shower gels is a real success story: designed without traditional soap, it offers an alternative for delicate epidermis. Made with 92 % of natural-origin ingredients, sulfate-free, pH-neutral, manufactured in France and rated up to 100/100 on Yuka, it embodies Yves Rocher's commitment to more responsible beauty, without compromising on effectiveness, pleasure of use or accessibility.

"As France's leading beauty brand (5) and a pioneer in the solid cosmetics market, Yves Rocher plays a key role in the cosmetics sector's transition to more sober practices. By placing impact at the heart of our innovation policy, we are helping to make beauty gestures more committed, while meeting our dermo-botanical requirements. A requirement that meets our customers' expectations for products that are natural, high-performance, safe and more responsible.says Alexandra Ferré, Impact & CSR Director, Yves Rocher.

1. All solid products compared with their non-solid equivalent - sales data 2024, worldwide. Equivalent for a 1.5L water bottle weighing 28g of plastic, Citeo. 

2. In g of plastic per ml of product manufactured vs. 2019. Dermo-botanics: long-lasting, effective skincare without compromising on experience.

Photo: composition of new Yves Rocher solid and eco-refill shower gels.

A new governance structure for Expanscience

Sophie Robert-Velut - Expanscience

On May 5, 2025, Sophie Robert-Velut, previously Managing Director of dermo-cosmetics, rheumatology and dermatology activities, was appointed Managing Director of the Expanscience group by Jean-Paul Berthomé, who remains Chairman. This new governance structure is accompanied by a change in the composition of the Management Committee.

A B Corp-certified dermo-cosmetic and pharmaceutical laboratory and a company with a mission, Expanscience has set its sights high to become a regenerative company by 2040. Jean-Paul Berthomé has announced a change of governance to guarantee the company's sustainability and performance, both in financial and extra-financial terms, while preserving its fundamental values and family character.

From now on, the Executive Board will be led jointly by Jean-Paul Berthomé, who will continue to oversee the company's major strategic orientations as Chairman, and Sophie Robert-Velut, as Managing Director. Sophie Robert-Velut will be responsible for proposing and implementing Expanscience's strategy, with the support of the Management Committee, which she will lead.

"Founded by my father in 1950, this independent, family-run business has a major social role to play, reconciling utility with a contribution to the preservation of future generations. For over five years, Sophie Robert-Velut has been the driving force behind this ambitious strategic vision, a source of development and innovation. Her leadership, convictions and ability to mobilize teams have been decisive in helping our company grow responsibly. I would like to thank her for all she has achieved, and reiterate my full confidence in her new role. I know that with Sophie, the company will continue to extend its history and develop in line with our mission to help people shape their well-being.said Jean-Paul Berthomé.

"First of all, I would like to thank Jean-Paul Berthomé and the entire management committee for their confidence. I want Expanscience to be recognized as a pioneering company, capable of drawing other economic and political players into positive-impact business models. This mission goes hand in hand with the company's success, which depends on our ability to strengthen our financial health and prosperity in the dermo-cosmetics (Mustela and Babo Botanicals), rheumatology and well-being with age, and cosmetic and nutraceutical active ingredients markets. The commitment of our employees is key to this project".emphasized Sophie Robert-Velut.

New members on the Executive Committee

At the same time, the company's management committee welcomes three new members. Marguerite Laborde, Mustela Global Director, is an HEC graduate with a 20-year career in marketing and e-commerce in the cosmetics sector, working for companies such as l'Occitane and Cinq Mondes. With Expanscience since 2020, she has notably designed and managed the redesign of the Mustela brand and its offering in line with Expanscience's impACT roadmap, and strengthened support for parenthood in the group's subsidiaries. She was involved in the first convention of companies for the climate, and is now involved in the CEC Nouveaux Imaginaires. 

Florence Pin, Global Healthcare Director, is a graduate of Paris Dauphine and IAE. She has over 25 years' experience in marketing and general management in the consumer goods and healthcare sectors within the Danone group. Since joining Expanscience in 2022, she has led the transformation of the Rheumatology business towards a long-term approach focused on well-being with age. In addition to managing the drug and medical device portfolio, she has coordinated the launch of the Iana brand and the Martha app: a new responsible and holistic health offering. 

Konstandinos Katsianakos, General Manager of Markets, is a graduate of Reims Management School. He has over 25 years' experience in sales, marketing, business development and export in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics sector, most notably with Galderma. He joined Expanscience in 2012 and successively managed the international export business, then the international subsidiaries, before being appointed Managing Director of Markets in 2022. He has played a decisive role in accelerating Expanscience's international development through an offering strategy that is as close as possible to market specificities.

Marbled ball caps designed by Texen for Oriflame's Scope Eau de Toilette range

Scope Oriflame - Texen

Oriflame, a global beauty and wellness company, has unveiled Scope Eau de Toilette, an innovative fragrance collection that combines artificial intelligence and olfactory personalization. To showcase this innovation, Oriflame has chosen a different marbled hue for each of the three fragrances than the standard Texen Group ball cap, adapted to the personality, lifestyle and preferences of its customers.

Time Loop, with its white Milky Marble hood, evokes timeless elegance and the fluidity of time. Earth Wonder, with its Moss Stone-effect green marbled hood, reflects organic imperfection and a deep connection to nature. Across Space, topped by a purple marbled hood, like a Galactic Swirl, "captures the cosmic, mysterious nature of a futuristic fragrance."

The Texen group, experts in luxury and beauty packaging, has produced a marbled version of its standard ball cap in recyclable PP for these launches, offering a sustainable alternative without compromising on design and style.

The hoods are manufactured at the Texen plant in Poland. Oriflame was able to customize them by choosing different colors and material effects, such as marbling. The visual harmony between the round cap and the straight-edged rectangular bottle adds a distinctive touch. 

L'Oréal and Nvidia partners

L'Oréal - Nvidia

L'Oréal Groupe announced its collaboration with Nvidia at the VivaTech trade show, which opened its doors this morning in Paris.

As part of this collaboration, L'Oréal and its ecosystem of partners will leverage the Nvidia AI Enterprise platform to accelerate the development and deployment of artificial intelligence solutions, such as large-scale 3D rendering of the Group's products. According to L'Oréal, this alliance between physical AI and generative AI opens up a new field of creative possibilities.

"Our priority is to offer unprecedented consumer engagement, combining creativity and technology at a time when advances such as generative AI and agentic AI are profoundly redefining our consumers' expectations, said Asmita Dubey, General Manager, Digital and Marketing, L'Oréal Groupe. We're very excited to be working with Nvidia to unlock the potential of AI, stimulate the creativity of our teams and turn consumers' beauty dreams into reality."

"Generative AI brings companies a new form of intelligence and agility. Thanks to Nvidia AI Enterprise, L'Oréal is accelerating its innovation capabilities, personalizing interactions on a large scale and rethinking the marketing experience to make it a real lever for relationships and conversion, explained Azita Martin, Vice President and General Manager, Retail and CPG, Nvidia. Together, L'Oréal and Nvidia are pushing back the frontiers of AI in the beauty world, to offer consumers ever more fluid, enriching and inspiring experiences."

L'Oréal and Nvidia are already collaborating on a number of innovative projects, such as Creaitech, the L'Oréal Group's proprietary generative artificial intelligence platform.

In the field of AI, Noli ("No one like I"), a pioneering start-up in the field of multi-brand marketplaces powered by aritificial intelligence, founded and supported by L'Oréal Groupe, is reinventing the way consumers discover and buy beauty products. 

Symrise wins Natura award for its Hydrolite 5 green cosmetic ingredient

Sugar cane bagasse

Symrise received the Embrace Natura award in the Commitment to Life category in the presence of João Paulo Ferreira, CEO of Natura, a Brazilian multinational cosmetics company recognized as one of the three most sustainable companies in the world (source GlobeScan). The award recognizes the company's achievements in sustainable innovation. It specifically mentions the Hydrolite 5 green cosmetic ingredient, derived from three certified natural by-products - sugarcane bagasse, corncobs and wood pulp - as part of an innovative upcycling process. 

"This award celebrates our leadership in sustainable innovation and also reinforces our position as a unique benchmark company as well as our Gold status in the Regenerative Alliance program." explains Josy Hatada, Cosmetic Ingredients Vice-President for Latin America. 

According to the jury, Hydrolite 5 green stands out for its environmental benefits. Developed using a patented solvent-free process, it makes a significant contribution to reducing the carbon footprint, avoiding over 202 tonnes of CO₂ emissions per year. The energy-efficient production process requires no heating or cooling, reducing energy consumption.

"This award underlines our commitment to sustainable development and innovation, said Penelope Uiehara, Global Account Director for Fine Fragrances. At Natura, all new product decisions are guided by the triple bottom line - taking into account social, environmental and economic impacts - and reducing carbon emissions is a priority throughout the innovation process. Hydrolite 5 green is a clear demonstration of our shared commitment to advancing the principles of green chemistry and recycling agricultural by-products into superior sustainable ingredients."

"As the One Symrise team, we feel honored by this recognition," added Josy Hatada. Our strategic partnership with Natura has been instrumental in aligning our projects with Natura's vision of sustainable development. We particularly appreciated the exchange with João Paulo Ferreira, CEO of Natura. We're looking forward to starting new conversations around our Amazon 360 platform to harness the by-products of Tukumã, Açaí and Murumuru. In this way, we can advance our shared vision of regenerative innovation and responsible sourcing."

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