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Upcycled microalgae for reduced wrinkles

site-industries-cosmetiques A man's face is shown before and after a Brouillon auto care treatment.

Algaktiv Collage is made from plant collagen peptides and spermidine derived from a resilient extremophilic microalgae, Hematococcus pluvialis. This microalgae, which thrives in Iceland's harshest environments, has the ability to modify its own biochemistry when subjected to stress, producing astaxanthin, a red nutraceutical antioxidant.

Stressed microalgae 

In Iceland, the purest and longest-lasting astaxanthin is obtained from the cultivation ofHematococcus pluvialis in closed photobioreactors powered by renewable 100 % geothermal energy. Astaxanthin, an oil-soluble nutraceutical, is extracted from stressed microalgae, leaving behind a water-soluble fraction that was previously considered a waste product.

The company has developed an innovative process for recyclingHematococcus pluvialis depleted in astaxanthin, giving them new life in the form of Algaktiv Collage.

Algaktiv Collage harnesses the power of upcycled plant peptides, standardized in glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. These peptides serve as building blocks for the production of native collagen, promoting skin firmness and elasticity. 

Algaktiv Collage also contains spermidine, a natural activator of skin collagen synthesis, further enhancing its rejuvenating effects.

"At Algaktiv, we're driven by a passion for developing high-performance skincare solutions that deliver outstanding results while prioritizing sustainability, says Jordi Ayats, Director of Product Development. Algaktiv Collage represents the culmination of our deep understanding of skin biology and the evolving needs of consumers worldwide."

"Consumers are increasingly looking for natural, sustainable alternatives that deliver exceptional results. Algaktiv Collage, with its unique composition rich in plant collagen peptides and polyamine, meets this demand by harnessing the power of microalgae collagen amino acids to restore skin architecture and improve overall health."says Alexandre Lapeyre, Marketing Director.

The tests in vitro and clinical evaluations

The efficacy of Algaktiv Collage has been evaluated in clinical and in vitro studies.

In vitro tests show that Algaktiv Collage stimulates the production of native collagen in the dermis, resulting in an increase of 27.96 % at 0.5 % and 40.37 % at 1 %.

Algaktiv Collage offers hydration benefits comparable to those of hyaluronic acid, with a significant increase from 34 % to 0.5 %. The combination of 0.5 % hyaluronic acid and 0.5 % Algaktiv Collage increases hydration by almost 60 %.

Clinical evaluations of Algaktiv Collage also highlight its transformative effects on the skin.

A long-term study conducted with Algaktiv Collage 1% revealed a performance in restructuring the skin from within and forming the 3D matrix. After seven days, firmness and plumping were multiplied by 2.2 and 3.4 respectively, while hydration was multiplied by three after 28 days. Wrinkle reduction was visually significant.

A study conducted at 2 % demonstrated Algaktiv Collage's ability to hydrate throughout the day. Just one hour after application, hydration levels increased by almost 30 % compared with 7 % for a placebo. This superior performance was maintained for 24 hours.

The third clinical evaluation, carried out with Algaktiv Collage dosed at 3%, showed a notable 35 % increase in hydration after just 10 minutes, a significant improvement over placebo. Internal skin analysis showed intense, long-lasting hydration for up to 24 hours. The amino acid's rapid ability to bind to key skin elements, as hyaluronic acid does, and its ability to remodel the internal structure, helped reduce wrinkles by 14% after just 10 minutes.

Certified by Cosmos, Algaktiv Collage is derived from recycled microalgae grown in Iceland, is GMO-free and registered in China. It stands out for its high stability and ease of formulation, all toxicological assessments having been successfully completed.

"Our commitment to sustainable development goes beyond our product, adds Alexandre Lapeyre. We have developed a unique process for recycling microalgae. Haematococcus pluvialisThis reduces our environmental footprint and helps preserve marine resources.

Crodarom and Alban Muller International: botanical expertise

Croda botanical catalog

The Botanical Alliance of the Croda International Plc. chemical group, bringing together Crodarom, the group's botanical expert, and Alban Muller International, has launched its first joint catalog, featuring over 250 botanical extract references. 

This pooling of the two offers follows the Group's acquisition of Alban Muller International. The aim is to strengthen the botanical dimension of its Personal Care expertise, and thus offer its customers an extended portfolio of natural solutions.

The catalog features several ranges made from a wide variety of carefully selected raw materials: botanical active ingredients with a performance and/or emotional dimension, high-tech ingredients and other multifunctional ingredients. The references are organized by properties, for greater convenience when searching.

The catalog is available on the Croda Personal Care.


Crodarom's analysis of beauty trends 2024

In the spring, Crodarom published its study of the beauty concepts that will be essential next year, the result of exhaustive research into trends and prospects in the cosmetics market. 

Freedoms take pride of place here, in all their forms, with ever more naturalness. Inclusivity and self-care are taking firm root, as is the trend for mind-body well-being. Responding to the specific needs of each individual, living new experiences, breathing new life into ancestral traditions - these are just some of the major trends that will be driving the market next year and beyond.

Crodarom offers three blog posts to explore these trends. The first article provides an overview, then the next two explore two major concepts in detail: 

  • Geoskincare, cosmetics adapted to local climates, in a context of climate change, 
  • Aura Beauty, which brings together the best of ancient traditions and knowledge with the latest scientific and technological advances.

Cosmetic 360 Awards 2023: the winners have been announced

Cosmetic 360 Awards 2023

On the occasion of the 9th edition of the Cosmetic 360 international trade show, held in Paris on October 18 and 19, 2023, a jury of journalists from the French and international trade press met to select the most outstanding innovations from over 250 exhibitors. Seven prizes were awarded.

Bioweg is the winner in the "Raw Materials" category, for its functional ingredients obtained by fermenting cellulose to replace solid microplastics and acrylic polymers.

Technature was honored in the "Formulation and Manufacturing" category. Minimalist, sturdy and easy to carry, its heating and cleansing care in solid stick form transforms into a milky emulsion when rinsed off.

SGS Proderm won an award in the "Tests & Analysis" category for a new skin imaging technique to assess the action of anti-aging products on collagen.

DWS Engraving is the winner in the "Packaging & packing" category for its full-color laser engraving solution on leather.

Diva Flora received an award in the "Brand & Distribution" category. Diva Flora is a skincare brand based on hemp derivatives, with a multi-level eco-design approach.

SFE Process was honored in the "Services for the cosmetics industry" category. The company offers equipment for carbodistillation and obtaining essential oils using supercritical CO2.

Intact Regenerative was awarded the special "Coup de cœur cleantech" prize. This Loiret-based start-up is working on the introduction of leguminous crops (plant proteins) in crop rotation in the Beauce plains near Orléans. These crops enrich the soil by naturally adding nitrogen, thus avoiding the use of chemical fertilizers, which damage soil biodiversity and are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions in agriculture. This approach also reduces the need for tillage. Soil structure influences water retention capacity: healthy soils are more resilient to climate change. These legumes are processed by low-carbon fermentation, which emits three times less CO2 than conventional processes. This produces 25 % of vegan plant proteins for human consumption and 65 % of neutral alcohol for use in perfumery.

Aptar Beauty and Quadpack revamp the refillable lipstick in a wooden case

Iconic Woodacity

The collaboration between Aptar Beauty and Quadpack continues with Iconic Woodacity 2.0. Launched last year, this refillable lipstick has been designed to enhance sustainability and boost the consumer experience by uniting the two companies' expertise in lipsticks and wood components. Iconic Woodacity features Aptar's Iconic mechanism, integrated into a customized wooden single-material case made by Quadpack. The new edition perfects the concept by extending the choice of wood types and finishes, and featuring a new patented closure system called "Solo Snap".

Presented at Luxe Pack Monaco, Iconic Woodacity 2.0 features a tube made from pure ash or maple wood, sourced from sustainably managed European forests and PEFC and FSC certified on request. This is a base for brands to adapt to their own needs, by applying a wide range of designs and decoration techniques. 

"Wood conveys emotions. Ash is a light wood with a straight grain. Maple can be very smooth and shiny. Woodworking can either enhance the unique grain patterns or give the product a premium appearance, enabling it to meet the needs of brands looking for sustainable packaging beyond the natural aesthetics of wood."explains Denisa Stircea, Senior Category Lead at Quadpack.

The Solo Snap system has been developed to bring a timeless, classic gesture to lipstick use. Quadpack's woodworking experts have created a fast-closing system thanks to a new patented inner structure that works without inserts, plastic or anything else. Consumers simply remove the cap and replace it, pressing until they hear a "click". What's more, it's perfectly compatible with standard refillable mechanism ranges.

"This single-material, refillable product and its opening principle are perfectly suited to this lipstick."says Patrick Bousquel, Marketing Director Beauty EMEA at Aptar Beauty.

The case houses the Iconic mechanism manufactured by Aptar Beauty. Free from POM, glue and lubricant, it enables smooth rotation of the grape. Refills are easily replaced by pulling on the mechanism used to remove it and exerting pressure to insert the new refill inside.

With its mechanisms produced at the Aptar Chavanod site in France, including "entreprise du patrimoine vivant" (EPV) certification, and its cladding developed by Quadpack Wood in Catalonia, Spain, Iconic Woodacity 2.0 is entirely "Made in Europe".

www.aptar.com
www.quadpack.com

GS1 France deploys the GS1 augmented QR code in the cosmetics industry 

GS1 QR code illustration

GS1 France announces the deployment of its new identification standard, the GS1 QR Code Augmented, in the cosmetics industry. From now on, manufacturers and consumers of cosmetic products will have access to an informational tool capable of bridging the gap between physical products and the digital world. It's a genuine medium that opens up new, responsible uses for consumers, and circular ones for manufacturers.

"We are pleased to announce the launch of our new GS1 QR Code standard for the cosmetics industry, designed to replace the barcode. It is the only standard adapted to the many new French and European regulations. The cosmetics sector is undergoing a major ecological and scientific transformation. It is a real relay of information for the consumer".says Didier Veloso, CEO of GS1 France.

Opening up the field of uses, creating a responsible cosmetics experience

According to the Greenflex-Ademe barometer published in 2023, for 84 % of French people companies and brands are required to take concrete action in favor of responsible consumption.

The GS1 Enhanced QR Code gives consumers instant access to a wealth of online information on cosmetics products: composition, origin, advice on use, tutorials, CSR commitments, and more. For example, it guarantees greater transparency on the composition of products often used directly on the skin.

This new mode of product identification is a vector for new manufacturing and consumption paradigms. By embedding an infinite quantity of data, it makes it easier to choose, sort, recycle, resell, repair, share, upgrade and so on. A shift from container to content, from product to use, heralding new modes of consumption.

Transforming product labels into genuine media

Previously, the amount of information that could be communicated to the consumer was limited by the physical format of the label, a simple square of paper. Now, thanks to the GS1 QR Code Augmented, the label can be used to link a physical medium - the packaging - to a digital medium. This link makes it possible to build services that complement the use of the product, such as the production of content tailored to the consumer's expectations. It is now possible to accompany or guide consumers during their experience: share a tutorial on how to apply make-up, dye hair, or even how to apply a particular cream. With the GS1 Augmented QR Code, the product is enriched with an experience.

The GS1 Augmented QR Code, a springboard for the circular economy

Article 13 of the Agec law (Anti-waste for a circular economy) requires producers and importers of products to inform consumers about environmental aspects such as recyclability, repairability, durability, etc., via marking or labeling. This information must be accessible at the time of purchase, and also available to the public in electronic form.

The GS1 Augmented QR Code is the only way to embed an infinie amount of French and European regulatory information. What's more, GS1 standards are already a common language for 2 million companies, from major manufacturers to young brands. A real success story, positioning it as the best tool for companies to scale up towards a globalized circular economy.

Photo taken from "Guide technique de mise en œuvre des standards GS1, accompagnement à la digitalisation de la filière cosmétique" available on the GS1.fr website: https://www.gs1.fr/publication/guide-technique-mise-oeuvre-standards-gs1-digitalisation-filiere-cosmetique

A selection of vinegar-based products

Lipoid Kosmetic - Vinegar

A manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, Lipoid Kosmetik designs vinegar-based products for skin and hair care applications.

Vinegar, a staple ingredient in many kitchens, has been used for centuries for its many health and beauty benefits. Its acidic properties make it a versatile and effective natural remedy for a variety of skin and hair care needs. Vinegar-based ingredients adjust pH and cleanse naturally, and are therefore perfectly suited to combating damaged, dull and unruly hair. In addition, vinegar is exfoliating and antimicrobial, making it equally beneficial in bath and skin care products.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers a versatile selection of vinegar-based products optimized for cosmetic use.

Cider VNGR+ and Rice VNGR+ are active ingredients. By combining a virtually alcohol-free vinegar and glycerine extraction system with the finest plant raw materials, the extracts are optimized for performance and efficacy.

Apple vinegar is made from fresh apples in a two-stage fermentation process. Production begins with apples from Swiss organic farming. Only very ripe fruit is selected, as it contains the maximum amount of sugars required for optimal fermentation. The fruit is mechanically pressed to produce a natural, unfiltered juice, which is then fermented into apple cider by adding water and yeast. The alcohol contained in the cider is then transformed into acetic acid through acetic fermentation by specific non-GMO bacteria. Lipoid Kosmetik uses this apple vinegar to produce high-quality vinegar-based ingredients for cosmetic applications.

Rice vinegar, Asia's most popular vinegar, is produced by fermenting rice into rice wine, then into rice vinegar in a second, acetic fermentation stage. High-quality rice is essential for the production of rice vinegar. The rice is carefully washed and steamed, then inoculated with micro-organisms responsible for breaking down the rice starch into smaller sugars, which are then converted into alcohol. Like apple vinegar, rice vinegar is rich in phenolic compounds and other fermentation products that bring a variety of benefits to skin and hair. Lipoid Kosmetik uses this traditional Asian vinegar and exploits its soothing and cleansing properties to create cosmetic ingredients for strong, radiant hair and clean, healthy skin.

The new Herbasol vinegar extracts are carefully selected fruit extracts combined with organic apple cider vinegar. All products in the range are 100 % natural, Cosmos-certified and preservative-free.

"Our vinegar-based products combine the benefits of botanical extracts, fermentation compounds and acetic acid and are ideal for a variety of skin and hair care applications."says Lipoid Kosmetik 

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Naturelyn 500 B certified by Cosmos Ecocert

site-industries-cosmetiques A bowl of white powder in a white bowl, certified La Naturelyn 500 B.

Aiglon, France's only producer of vaselines, has enhanced its Naturelyn range with Naturelyn 500 B, Cosmos certified (organic).

This historic French producer innovated by creating the first Naturelyn in 2022, designed with 100 % of bio-sourced ingredients. In 2023, as part of its eco-responsible approach, Aiglon created the Naturelyn 500 B grade, which has just been Cosmos-Ecocert certified.

"Naturelyn 500 B has all the virtues of Aiglon Vaselines. It is a prodigious base for all dermo-cosmetic creams, balms, and for many cosmetic formulations."the company says.

Aiglon - Naturelyn

Cosmos certification guarantees : 

  • production and transformation processes that respect the environment and human health
  • the development of the green chemistry concept
  • responsible use of natural resources
  • respect for biodiversity
  • the absence of petrochemical ingredients (except authorized preservatives): parabens, phenoxyethanol, synthetic fragrances and colorants
  • absence of GMOs
  • recyclable packaging

Tailor-made grades 

Aiglon creates and develops "vaselines" made from biosourced ingredients, tailored to the specific needs of its customers.

Dermatological test

Dermatological tests have demonstrated the safety of Naturelyn and Naturelyn 500 B.

Naturelyn 500 B will be presented at the In-Cosmetics show in Bangkok from November 7 to 9, 2023.

Photo taken from www.aiglon.eu.

Cosmetic Valley sets up shop in Shanghai

site-industries-cosmetiques Cosmetic Valley sets up in Shanghai, with a prominent group of people in a convention center.

Cosmetic Valley president Marc-Antoine Jamet announced at the ninth edition of the Cosmetic 360 trade show, currently taking place at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris: " a permanent installation in Shanghai: the French Fragrance and Cosmetics Ambassy ". This Chinese regional branch will have dedicated staff and will deal with issues relating to business activity in China. It is also a " a gateway for those not yet present "adds Cosmetic Valley. The local stakes are obviously those of sales on a gigantic market, while at the same time having a stronger voice on issues relating to parallelism, intellectual property and counterfeiting.

More generally, Cosmetic Valley is delighted with the dynamism of the sector, with this " ecosystem that works "In the words of the Chairman, who welcomes coordinated action by the State, local authorities and stakeholders.

For her part, Franckie Béchereau, director of the Cosmetic 360 trade show, announces the transition from a " structuring event to a structural event. We showcase the industry's innovation, exports and growing skills. We bring together all the links in the industry. We're both a showcase and a factory for innovation. And we do business! "She reminds us that the industry needed this event in 2015, and that today, the show is intensifying without departing from the initial concept.

Christophe Masson, Director of Cosmetic Valley, concludes by explaining that the show " is a source of inspiration for us all. Whether we're talking about environmental transition, the use of our cosmetics, simplified formulas or monomaterials, Cosmetic 360 is a source of inspiration for us all.. "

The show has already announced its dates for 2024: it will be held at the Carrousel du Louvre on October 16 and 17.

Cfic, the trade show for cosmetic industrial transitions

Cfic

"Climate change, resource conservation, the digital transition, responsibility towards future generations... these are just some of the challenges facing manufacturers. Our role, as a community facilitator, is to support all players in the industry (own brands, laboratories, manufacturers, processors, subcontractors, research centers, etc.) in their product innovation strategy (content/container) and the adaptation of their production site."say the organizers of Cfic, the trade show for industrial transitions in cosmetics.

Cfic is a concept designed for players in the cosmetics industry, whether they're looking to identify new partners, capture new markets, identify new areas for innovation, think differently about their business, or inspire new vocations... The show will be held on November 21 and 22, 2023, in Lyon, France's leading industrial region.

The entire value chain will be showcased through four universes:

- industrial supplies & equipment
Reducing energy and water consumption; waste management and treatment; improving carbon footprint, implementing less energy-intensive processes; developing solutions for bulk distribution, etc.

- new generation solutions & services
Environmental engineering and energy efficiency; test and measurement control; analysis and testing laboratories; traceability and counterfeiting; environmental labelling; life cycle analysis; carbon footprinting; eco-toxicity, artificial intelligence, returns management...

- ingredients with added environmental and social value
Vertical farm, natural ingredients, essential oil distillery, ingredients from controlled / natural / biodegradable sources, co-products, etc.

- packaging for the future
Eco-design; recycling; anti-waste; new materials; reusable packaging, etc. Content/container interaction; data management; traceability; personalization; bulk cleaning solutions...

Conferences will be held, with the presence of committed personalities:

  • Benoit Schumann, President WeClean - Founder NGO Project Rescue Ocean
  • Cassandre Milius, founder of The Good Habits
  • Kevin Polizzi, President Unitel Group (Technologies & Smarts Buildings)
  • Pauline Grumel, Unisoap founder
  • Didier Onraita-Bruneau, President of the day by day and Mademoiselle Vrac grocery networks
  • Fabrice Peltier, designer, creative eco-design consultant and committed artist

Building the future

Because employment and the attractiveness of professions are key issues for the industry, Cfic will be offering specific services over the two days of the event to help companies find their future talents in the industry's short-staffed professions. Schools, universities and training centers will be on hand to identify companies' expectations, propose suitable profiles and attract new talent to the cosmetics industry.

Cfic alongside Prod&Pack and Cosmed: obvious synergies

Cfic and Prod&Pack offer complementary solutions. Prod&Pack is a multi-sector show, while Cfic presents solutions specific to the cosmetics industry, providing a 360° panorama: sourcing, formulation, analysis/testing, processes, packaging and distribution. To facilitate access to both events and all their contents, the Cfic badge will give access to Prod&Pack and vice versa.

Cosmed, the trade association representing companies in the cosmetics industry, is a partner of the event.

Note: because innovation is a lever for development, this year the show is launching the Cfic Awards. The aim is to reveal and reward innovations in the cosmetics industry.

Some 160 exhibitors and 2,000 visitors are expected.

The "Grace Box", an elegant, refined and eco-responsible box

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of boxes with a self-branding logo.

Presented at the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco, the "Grace Box" combines strength and lightness, offering, according to Procos, a "perfect fit". "incomparable experience at every opening."

"Carefully designed, this eco-friendly box pushes the boundaries of sustainability. Made from eco-friendly materials, it's a testament to our commitment to the planet."says Leander Kritikos, CEO of Procos.

Three versions are available: a lacquered version with magnetic closure, a single-material version without magnet in two colors, and two constructions (construction 1: box + lid; construction 2: grooved box + lid).

According to Procos, the "Grace Box" represents a major breakthrough in sustainable packaging, responding to the growing demand for environmentally friendly alternatives. Procos has harnessed its creativity to develop this innovative, patented concept over the past few months, addressing concerns linked to the planet's environmental challenges.

At the heart of the "Grace Box" is an innovative composition mainly derived from ultra-condensed recycled brown cardboard. This guarantees that the new box is entirely recyclable and reusable, depending on the finish, considerably reducing plastic waste and its harmful impact on the environment.

The main features of the Grace Box are as follows:

1. Environmental awareness: the "Grace Box" sets new standards in terms of eco-responsibility, being lighter than a grey board (-10 % approx.) and a wooden box (-30 to 40%). By choosing the Grace Box, Procos customers are actively helping to reduce CO2 emissions.

2. Cost-efficiency: the Grace Box is approximately 10 to 15 % less expensive than conventional grey cardboard boxes of the same thickness. This economic aspect enables brands to make sustainable choices without compromising profitability.

3. Reliability redefined: with its exceptional durability, the "Grace Box" effectively resists deformation, ensuring that precious products are perfectly protected throughout their journey.

"The Grace Box embodies our vision to stimulate positive change in the packaging industry. By introducing this environmentally friendly solution, Procos aspires to revolutionize the way companies approach their packaging needs, contributing to a greener, more sustainable world."says Leander Kritikos.

The "Grace Box" comes at a critical time when companies around the world are actively seeking environmentally-friendly alternatives to reduce their ecological footprint. With its combination of durability, cost-effectiveness and reliability, this new lightweight box is destined to make a significant impact from retail to online sales, as well as watchmaking, jewelry, cosmetics and many other sectors.

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