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Neurocosmetic Power to Look and Feel Good

TiMOOD™ is a neurocosmetic active addressing the trend of emotional wellbeing in beauty. Based on timut pepper, it provides an even skin complexion and improves the mood.

Emotional beauty to improve wellbeing

In a global society characterized by more and more people feeling stressed, the concept of emotional wellbeing, which is the ability to adapt to stressful situations and produce positive emotions, has become increasingly important. Whereas self-care in beauty, such as beauty rituals, can help to boost mental health, a more relaxed state of mind, in turn, can improve skin appearance, as stress is a well-known inducer of skin problems. Skin that feels good can boost one's mood; not only consciously due to a visible improvement of the facial appearance but also unconsciously via the skin-brain connection.

Skin-brain connection by the nervous system

Our skin contains a dense network of sensory neurons, which are peripheral nerve cells that link the skin and the brain. This supply of the skin with nerves functions as a sensor to warn the body of danger, such as heat coming from the environment. Cutaneous nerves, however, also respond to endogenous stimuli and emotions. Sensory neurons can impact physiological functions, such as inflammation and cell growth, and thus skin health through secreted factors, which are called neuropeptides. Aged skin shows a natural decline of the dense network of neurons, which may be linked to impaired skin functions and skin-brain communication.

Timut pepper to improve skin and mood

Based on dried fruits of the timut pepper plant (Zanthoxylum alatum), TiMOOD™ is a novel active that protects neurons from aging and thereby supports an even skin complexion but also improves wellbeing. As member of the citrus family, timut pepper is not a real pepper, but a spice plant that grows in the Himalayas. Due to their biological activities, the bark, seeds, and fruits of this plant have a long history in traditional medicine, amongst others to treat depression as well as skin irritation and wounds. In our research, we have already studied a timut pepper extract for application in food supplements and observed improved cognitive functions, which may indicate increased neural efficiency in the brain.

Timut pepper protects neurons in the skin

The effect of TiMOOD™ on neurons in the skin was tested in a coculture model of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes, treated with timut pepper extract. The treatment led to a higher number of neurons and increased neurite length compared to the untreated control, indicating a protective effect against neuronal aging. In addition, the proliferation rate of keratinocytes and the release of dopamine were increased. A higher number of keratinocytes could enhance the growth of neurites by growth factor release. Dopamine, known as a neurotransmitter in the brain, can be also released by keratinocytes, and is involved in skin microcirculation and barrier function. Thus, by stimulating keratinocyte growth and protecting neurons, timut pepper extract supports skin-brain communication and a functional and healthy-looking skin.

Homogenous skin complexion by TiMOODTM

To assess the effect of TiMOOD™ on the skin, a clinical study was performed on a panel of volunteers feeling stressed. The volunteers used either a face cream containing 2 % TiMOOD™ or a placebo cream for 28 days. The treatment with TiMOOD™ resulted in a significant improvement of skin tone evenness. The positive effect on skin complexion was confirmed by an expert grading which showed increased evenness of the complexion and skin luminosity, a reduced skin redness, and a fresher and healthier complexion after the 28-day treatment with TiMOOD™. These results were confirmed by the volunteers in a self-assessment questionnaire.

Improved emotional wellbeing by TiMOOD™

In the same study, a neuropsychological approach was used to test emotional wellbeing. The EmoCompass® is a market research tool that is usually used for fast-moving consumer goods. The application in the field of neurocosmetics is a novelty. For the test, the volunteers answered the question "How do you feel?" non-verbally by generating emotional patterns consisting of coded shapes and colors on a computer screen. The results of the test showed an improvement in emotional wellbeing in terms of a less stressed and more relaxed state of the volunteers who used the cream with 2 % TiMOOD™ for 28 days.

To summarize, TiMOOD is a neurocosmetic active based on timut pepper to improve skin complexion and emotional wellbeing targeting the skin-brain axis. The "look good - feel good" concept was proven by a combination of studies and provides the customer an ideal active ingredient for mood boosting and relaxing cosmetics that covers the trend topics emotional wellbeing and neurocosmetics.

EcoVadis 2023: the Albea group wins the gold medal

For the fourth consecutive time, the Albéa Group's commitment to corporate social responsibility (CSR) has been rewarded with the EcoVadis Gold Medal.

With an overall score of 71, 3 points higher than last year, Albéa is among the top 5 % companies evaluated and among the top 2 % companies rated in the "Plastic Products Manufacturing" business sector.

As last year, Albéa's sustainability performance in the "environment" category stands out with a score of 80, reflecting the efforts made by the group to reduce its impact on the environment at all levels. In the "labor and human rights" category, Albéa has improved its score from 60 in 2022 to 70 for this year.

The Fedrigoni Group innovates for the protection of brands

Fedrigoni's Paper and Self-Adhesives divisions have jointly designed solutions capable of guaranteeing the integrity, origin and traceability of products. These solutions are aimed at converters and luxury brands.

Guaranteeing, or even tracing, the authenticity and integrity of products in the age of e-commerce is a challenge for brands. The originality and exclusivity of a product are the integrity of a brand, the expression of its quality and prestige. These values play a key role in consumers' buying preferences.

For the Fedrigoni GroupIn order to achieve this, it was necessary to go further in this field by offering a complete range of paper products and self-adhesive materials for brand protection, all of which are compatible with the group's environmental policy.

Multiple solutions

Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives has designed multiple brand protection solutions 100 % customizable this offer covers all requirements for creating seals on self-adhesive materials and packaging: security labels (Void), customizable films that, when removed, leave a design or text on the support and cannot be repositioned; materials that, once applied, tear or disintegrate when an attempt is made to peel them off; customizable holographic supports with different levels of security; tamper-evident solutions specially designed to tear the box on which these labels are affixed in the event of an attempt to open the package...

Some security papers can incorporate fibers, confetti and other special pigments. There are also dyes, fibers or other elements directly added to the paper pulp or surface treatments containing reactive inks, embossing or watermarks.

Each solution is visible to the naked eye, to the touch, or detectable with specialized equipment.

"The authenticity, safety and integrity of brands, products and packaging are economic and image issues"says Michele De Pascalis, product manager for security products. "With this range, we intend to provide an effective and transversal response".

With a long experience in the field of security and with an R&D department mobilized in the development and experimentation of cutting-edge technologies, Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives is committed to fight against a phenomenon that harms brands as much as consumers and, consequently, an entire economy. The problem is not only that a counterfeit product is marketed at the price of the original or that it may be dangerous to health, the problem is that original items are diverted from the networks and escape the control of the manufacturer.

Targeted acquisitions

The Fedrigoni Group is strengthening its presence in this sector through targeted acquisitions. In April 2022, the group acquired the French company Tageos, a world leader in the design and production of RFID inserts and tags for self-adhesive labels. Recently, it was Arjowiggins' research and development center in Grenoble, France, which promises to drive innovation in printed electronics and advanced research on paper media using RFID. Indeed, smart paper can directly host circuits and microchips, without conflicting with the "single material" strategy essential to the valorization of end-of-life products.

 

Nutrikéo creates a new division dedicated to cosmetics

Since 2009, Nutrikéo's scientists and strategy and marketing experts have been deploying their knowledge of the nutrition ecosystem, according to a virtuous and sustainable founding vision.

"Where cosmetics meet nutrition", or the creation of the new Nutrikéo cluster

Based in France, Nutrikéo is the think tank for nutrition strategies. Thanks to our ability to simplify the complexities of life sciences, we support innovation and development projects in the food, nutraceuticals, health and, now, cosmetics sectors.
" The bridges between cosmetics and nutrition have long been numerous. The creation of a division dedicated to cosmetics is an essential step for Nutrikéo, in view of our expertise in terms of innovation, but also of the development of the
nutricosmetic dietary supplements, which we have already been working on for some time. We are convinced that the holistic approach to beauty, like the future of cosmetics, can only include nutrition.
"Grégory Dubourg, CEO and founder of Nutrikéo.

Our expertise for a changing industry
Through this new business unit, we support customers on 7 pillars:
- Market research, monitoring, trends
- Innovation, development/formulation in nutricosmetics
- BtoB & BtoC marketing strategy
- Marketing and scientific communication
- Nutritional education & holistic beauty
- Speaking and training
- Strategic due diligence
More specifically, this cluster is aimed at ingredient suppliers, cosmetics and nutricosmetics brands, and formulators. These are all players that Nutrikéo is already familiar with through its founding Food, Nutra and Health divisions.

Bormioli Luigi expands its production capacity in Spain

Covered by major investment plans, the opening of the Azuqueca site in Spain involves 4 IS lines, the last of which will be commissioned in 2024. This new unit will enable the group to absorb the growth in production volumes and to better meet the growing demand of its customers.

The Spanish site located 40 km from Madrid had been used for the group's tableware business since its acquisition in 2017. It is now being transformed to produce bottles for perfumery and cosmetics. It will eventually be equipped with four new IS machines, followed by a decoration workshop. A first machine has been in operation since 2022, two others will be in operation during the first half of 2023, and the fourth at the beginning of 2024, for a total capacity of 90 million pieces per year, i.e. an increase of one third of the group's overall production. This strategic operation is part of an investment plan, the first round of which was initiated in 2019. It will bring the number of lines to a total of 18 spread over 3 sites.

A strategy in line with the markets

Bormioli Luigi's initial objective in increasing its production capacity was to serve the cosmetic and mid-range demands of its customers. But the economic situation was different. The growth of the perfume market has overtaken that of cosmetics in recent years. Attentive to the needs of the market, Bormioli Luigi has been able to be flexible and adapt to the context without denying its investments. Tomorrow, the Spanish unit will serve to balance the demand on the perfume markets.

Optimizing profits, driving structural growth

Bormioli Luigi has never stopped investing in line with market expectations. At the end of its 2019-2023 investment plan of 200 million, a second one is about to be launched for the period 2024-2028. It will focus on structural growth, on the management of production tools and flows, and on strong and environmentally responsible innovation. "We must continue to support brands with a service adapted to their needs, build growth in partnership, optimize profits, and lead an increasingly responsible innovation."explains Simone Baratta, Director of the Perfume & Prestige Business Unit.

Tomorrow will be green

Bormioli Luigi has a strong commitment to environmental and social governance. Its ambition remains to reduce its carbon emissions by 50 % by 2030. As a pioneer in electric smelting, which accounts for 65 % of its overall production, the group is electrifying its processes and hybridizing certain gas furnaces. In addition, it is using renewable energy sources. These structural changes will allow the group to face in real time the volatile energy situation. In addition, Bormioli Luigi is carrying out large-scale projects in cohesion with its peers, particularly on the use of alternative technologies such as hydrogen.

Epionine Bio: the new Expanscience active ingredient for the well-being of the skin and mind

Laboratoires Expanscience announce the launch of their new holistic active ingredient Epionine Bio, at In-Cosmetics 2023 in Barcelona.
" At a time when our mission is to help individuals shape their well-being, we're counting on this new holistic active to help us achieve it. We're delighted to offer Epionine Bio, a natural, Cosmos-certified active ingredient, to provide a holistic approach to beauty and help people feel better about themselves, whether they're dealing with skin problems or their emotional state. "comments Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Laboratoires Expanscience's active cosmetics business.

Epionine Bio, the transition to holistic cosmetics

Cosmetic active ingredients Epionine Bio represents an opportunity for cosmetics brands to position themselves in the holistic cosmetics segment, i.e. to contribute to the well-being of individuals by acting on both the skin and the mind.
Clinical studies conducted during the development ofEpionine Bioconducted alongside specialists in psychology and neuroscience have shown numerous benefits...
- Physical, by reinforcing the cutaneous barrier and moisturizing the skin. Daily protection for dry, sensitive skin from IN & OUT stress, which contributes to feelings of discomfort;
- And mentally, since this active ingredient is capable of improving emotional state (+18%), quality of life (+21%), self-esteem (+35%) and reducing psychological stress in individuals (-11%).
" Skin health and well-being are intimately linked. The symptoms of dry or sensitive skin can have an impact on well-being, stressing the individual and worsening his or her emotional state. A vicious circle can then set in, with stress itself a source of skin problems. In fact, around 40 %2 of people with skin problems also have mental health problems, which are often linked to their skin condition. "continues Armelle Le Peniec.

A natural and organic cosmetic active ingredient, responsibly sourced

Epionine Bio is an active oil extracted from Camellia oleifera seeds, sustainably sourced in China, rich in precious molecules (unsaponifiables) obtained by molecular distillation. This process, which takes place in our production plant in Epernon, is more respectful of the environment as it requires no solvents. This 100 % natural active ingredient is Cosmos-certified.
This certification process is fully in line with Laboratoires Expanscience's commitment to offering cosmetic active ingredients of natural origin that respect biodiversity and the environment.

Cosmogen's Needle tube seduced Pai

With its ultra-fine cannula, Cosmogen's Needle tube was particularly suited for Pai's ultra-targeted eye care product: Feather Canyon. The metal tip is separable during recycling and the tube is made of recycled and recyclable plastic, making it an environmentally friendly cosmetic product. Cosmogen's Needle tube was designed for targeted eye or lip care. It is available with a gold and silver finish cannula and cap, reusable on a spare tube.

"The active formula is in an innovative new 100 % PCR plastic tube, with a refreshing metal precision tip for precise, no-waste application of the product. With this change, the packaging can now be completely recycled with a simple twist of the wrist."

Pierre Fabre announces the acquisition of the Même brand

The Pierre Fabre Group today announced the acquisition of Même, launched in 2017 by Judith Levy Keller and Juliette Couturier, who will remain as CEO. Même has captured the hearts of people affected by cancer by offering the first range of skin, scalp and nail care products, developed in collaboration with oncologists and dermatologists, to address the side effects of cancer treatments. A minority shareholder for the past 5 years, Pierre Fabre is now acquiring the entire capital of Même from the co-founders and the investment fund Eutopia, which specializes in "emerging consumer brands", via its Otium Consumer fund. 

Judith Levy Keller and Juliette Couturier, co-founders of Même, state: " It is with great pride and excitement that we announce today the entry of our brand Even in the Pierre Fabre family, which we already know well, as the group has been a shareholder and partner of our company for over 5 years. With the Pierre Fabre teams, we will be able to build great synergies to accelerate our development, especially internationally, and thus make our dream a reality: that Even be accessible to those who need it, everywhere in the world and for a long time. This is a beautiful story that continues to be written and we are convinced that together we will go even further.

Frédéric Ennabli, Managing Director Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics, explains : "Même is a perfect addition to our brand portfolio. By becoming the reference brand for skin weakened by oncological treatments, Même is completely in line with Pierre Fabre's dermo-cosmetics mission to respond to skin pathologies and improve the lives of patients and consumers. Même is the brand allied to women and men living with and fighting disease. It is a very positive vision of care. This patient support approach will be carried and amplified within Pierre Fabre, because it is valuable but also because it corresponds perfectly to our own values."

Even was born as a result of the painful personal experiences of the co-founders. Judith Levy Keller and Juliette Couturier were indeed led to discover the physical (undesirable effects on the skin, mucous membranes and hair) and psychological suffering that cancer patients can experience during and after their treatments. Refusing fatality, they have created a range of dermo-cosmetic care products and make-up based on natural ingredients and whose formulas are tested to guarantee tolerance and effectiveness. These products are made in France with one conviction: taking care of oneself and one's skin means being better equipped to accept treatment and fight against the disease. This story had seduced the investment fund Eutopia, which, as early as January 2016, had invested in the project via its Otium Consumer fund, to finance the first clinical trials.

Camille Kriebitzsch, Co-founder and Partner at Eutopiaexplains: "We've been with Même since its inception with the Otium Consumer fund, and we're extremely proud of the track record of its two co-founders and their team. Même is very representative of our "good for you, good for the planet, good for society" investment thesis and of what we do best. Seeing the brand join a group whose values and commitment it shares to write a new page in its history is the best illustration of this."

Pierre Fabre's acquisition of Même is a continuation of a commercial partnership signed in December 2017. For 3 years, the Eau Thermale Avène brand's sales network introduced the philosophy and products of Même to pharmacies and parapharmacies. Today, Même offers a rich catalog of 46 products at 4,800 pharmacies and parapharmacies, as well as on its online sales site. The brand is already distributed in 10 other countries (Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, Morocco, Romania, Czech Republic, Ireland, Spain, Italy and more recently China) with a significant potential for growth in many markets.

Eric Ducournau, CEO of the Pierre Fabre Groupconcludes: "With this acquisition, we confirm our strategy of investing in innovative brands and products in our priority areas of oncology, dermatology and dermo-cosmetics. By its positioning, Même is precisely at the crossroads of these 3 strategic priorities. When I met Judith and Juliette 5 years ago, I understood that we shared common values and that their project had a strong development potential. We will continue to write this meaningful story together in the service of people affected by cancer."

Algaktiv retinart : a new generation retinol-like based on microalgae

Inspired by the latest generation retinoids, this active ingredient - derived from a specific fraction of micro-algae - is a marine bio-retinol. Algaktiv retinart offers the same repairing, balancing and soothing performance as retinol, without any irritation or photosensitization. It helps even out skin tone for firmer, naturally radiant skin and is suitable for sensitive skin.

In recent years, retinol has been a star ingredient in anti-aging products. However, this active ingredient, despite its many benefits, has undesirable effects. It acts on the dermis, and the epidermis, generating burns due to photosensitization of the skin, and irritations. It is the α and ɣ receptors, located between the dermis and the epidermis for the one, and in the epidermis only, for the other, which will interact with retinol and its derivatives.

Active ingredients that interact only with the β-receptor, located in the dermis only, avoid the burns caused by retinol and classic retinoids.

In order to target this receptor, Summit Cosmetics Europe offers, thanks to its supplier Algaktiv S.L, Algaktiv retinart: an optimized retinoid without side effects.

Results in clinical trials:

  • Anti-aging and anti-acne properties
  • Reduces the depth of wrinkles in 56 days
  • Reduces hyperpigmentation in 56 days
  • Firmer, more even skin in 28 days
  • Improves skin renewal
  • Reduces blemishes in 28 days
  • Reduces pore size and excess oil in 28 days

Properties of use and characteristics :

  • As a replacement for or in synergy with retinol
  • As a replacement for Bakuchiol in 1:1
  • Percentage of use between 1 and 2%
  • Water soluble
  • Inci : Chlorella Vulgaris Extract & Propanediol & Lecithin

Algaktiv retinart is non-GMO & Cosmos certified and vegan.

Forum Labo Paris: great success for this 17th edition

The 2023 edition of Forum Labo Paris has just come to a close, with extremely positive results and indicators up on the previous edition in Paris.

With 330 exhibitors (+25%) and 5,818 visitors (+7%)Despite the impact of a transport strike on the first day, Forum Labo Paris stood out for the quality of its visitors, and its business climate, as evidenced by the following figures 776 Lab'Meetings business meetings held (+27 1TP6Q)between exhibitors and key industry players.

A reaffirmation of the pivotal role played by Forum Labo each year, asa must-attend event and federator of the Laboratoire dedicated to Research, Analysis, Production and Control. Forum Labo also demonstrates the attachment of exhibitors and visitors to face-to-face events.These are real places to meet, do business and put products and innovations into perspective.

The 2023 program was distinguished by its rich, high-quality, multidisciplinary scientific and technical content, with 21 conferences.including the opening conference dedicated to CSR, and 13 training sessions hosted by exhibitors. Visitors were able not only to explore the major challenges facing the industry, but also to discover new analysis techniques and technological advances. Not forgetting the SEP 2023 congress, organized by the Association Francophone des Sciences Séparatives (AFSEP)), bringing together 282 specialists, 75 conferences, 4 workshops and 87 posters.

With innovation the hallmark of the show, the Innovation Trophies and the French Start-up Award highlighted the products and services that will shape the laboratory of tomorrow.. The 70 applications clearly demonstrate the commitment of Forum LABO exhibitors to meeting the major challenges facing our society. The fields of life sciences, and more particularly health, with the emergence of new therapies, the notion of sustainability and environmental impact, digitalization and not forgetting artificial intelligence, were the logical focus of this year's event. The independent jury of experts selected 6 winners (Chemys, Gensor, Greiner Bio One, Mettler Toledo, New England Biolabs, Trionyx) and one special mention (Le Labo Durable).

Innovation remains at the heart of the event, with 90 new products presented by exhibitors, a Lab'Start-up area, a forensic science area and patented innovations from the Gendarmerie Nationale's Pôle Judiciaire (PJGN). 

Finally, employment and recruitment, at the heart of the industry's concerns, has been able to mobilize education & employment areaThe Bernard Gregory Association, a group of leading engineering schools and, for the first time, Apec, were on hand to talk about careers and opportunities in scientific fields. In this area, Job Datings put candidates looking for jobs, training or advice in touch with exhibitors, recruiters or partners. 

Forum Labo looks forward to seeing you in Lyon on March 27 and 28, 2024 at the Centre des Congrès.

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