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Greentech unveils "next-generation" asset by studying Holobionte

Greentech presents a new innovative active ingredient : Holobiosys. An extract of wild yellow gentian roots potentiated by an upcycled fermentation process with a rare and cold-tolerant bacterium from the French aerobiota. It restructures the skin in depth, stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and lipids and restores skin hydration with a smoothing effect on wrinkles, while invigorating the skin holobionte.

A "new generation" active ingredient

Holobiosys is a scientific breakthrough resulting from more than 30 years of research by Greentech. 30 years of expertise in various fields that are crossed: biotechnologies, metabolic fermentation, phytochemistry, green extraction, biomimicry and microbiota.

Its scientific discoveries now allow it to unveil a new generation of active ingredients for cosmetics. A new systemic approach where Greentech takes a step back to treat the skin as a whole, which integrates for the first time a metaproteomic study, focused on the specific function of each cellular protein that will help improve the conditions of dry and dehydrated skin via a boost of hyaluronic acid and skin lipids.

Greentech believes that ecosystems should be studied as a whole, focusing on the interconnections between their different components rather than on the individual parts. To go even further than a simple study of the microbiota on one side and the skin on the other, the study of the holobiont provides a holistic view of the interactions between the skin and its microbial ecosystem. With age and loss of hydration, this study shows that these interactions evolve and tend to diminish and slow down. In addition to a deep hydra-restructuring action, it is this skin/microbiota relationship that is studied and that is boosted by Holobiosys. For a revitalized, healthy and harmonious holobiont.

Understanding and mastering the holobiont is a scientific success for Greentech. An innovation that advances science and opens the field of possibilities for new, more specific, more durable and increasingly effective skin care products.

Holobiosys: to counteract skin dryness and smooth wrinkles

To counter dehydration (lack of water) and dryness (lack of lipids) of the skin, Holobiosys boosts the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) in both the epidermis and the dermis. It also stimulates the HA CD44 receptor and its signaling cascade allowing the reinforcement of the epidermal barrier. Tight junction and differentiation markers are upregulated as well as lipid synthesis in keratinocytes for a more cohesive epidermis capable of retaining the skin's water content. It also stimulates the expression of markers of the dermal-epidermal junction for a better diffusion of HA-related water within the skin. Finally, cellular antioxidant responses are up-regulated in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, for protection against HA degradation by free radicals.

Holobiosys: for a rejuvenated and reinvigorated holobiont

With Holobosys, Greentech's R&D goes further by studying the skin holobiont (the assembly between the skin and its microbiota) with an innovative cutting-edge technology: a metaproteomic study. With age and loss of moisture, Greentech has demonstrated a slowdown in the skin's barrier and antioxidant functions, both of human and microbial origin. By focusing on host/microbiota interactions, Holobiosys stimulates these functions and contributes to a more harmonious and invigorated holobiont, allowing for a deep moisturizing-restructuring action.

Clinically tested on volunteers with dehydrated skin, Holobiosys increases the skin's hydration index after 28 days of application at 1% compared to placebo and smoothes wrinkles. It also protects the hydrolipidic film and even has a lipid-replenishing effect on a sub-panel with dehydrated and sebum-deficient skin.

[podcast] BodyPositive with Crodarom and Alban Muller

Discover Body Positive with Crodarom and Alban Muller.

In this episode, we are going to discuss with Delphine Gély and Robin Cordier. Both of them work in the unified marketing department of Crodarom and Alban Muller.

Both companies are specialized in botanical extraction and in the manufacturing of natural cosmetic ingredients.

Crodarom and Alban Muller are part of the Croda group which ensures the distribution of their products in France and abroad.

Crodarom has built a recognized expertise in deciphering beauty and skincare trends.

And today, Delphine Gély and Robin Cordier are going to talk to us about the Body Positive movement and inclusiveness, two fundamental trends that have inspired Zanthocarethe latest launch of Crodarom.

Omya focuses on waterless solutions based on natural and sustainable ingredients

Waterless formulations are a trend with multiple benefits, not only for consumers, but also for manufacturers and the environment. At in-Cosmetics Global, Omya presented prototypes of environmentally friendly waterless solutions based on natural minerals. These formulations for skin, mouth and hair care, as well as make-up, not only reduce water consumption during production, but also packaging and transportation costs, resulting in a reduced CO2 footprint.

The functionality of the advanced mineral particles allows for easy manufacturing while being highly effective. In addition, the natural and safe applications promise a long shelf life without the use of aggressive preservatives.

With a growing world population, water is becoming an increasingly precious resource, while the environmental impact of traditional cosmetic applications is no longer acceptable to most consumers. Therefore, the shift to innovative and more environmentally friendly concepts is an unstoppable trend. Omya is constantly looking for the best ways to meet the technical challenges of solid and water-reduced personal care and oral care products, while remaining natural and effective. The results were presented at in-Cosmetics Global in Barcelona: Advanced minerals such as Omyaskin and Omyadent particles are the basis for prototypes such as dental tablets and powders for remineralization and desensitization, toothpastes containing charcoal, waterless detox masks and solid make-up removers. A sensory center at the booth allowed visitors to see and smell the formulations, all of which are easy to disperse and apply. The natural ingredients also have moisturizing and protective properties for optimal skin health.

The booth also featured Cosmospheres, a solution based on natural ingredients that concentrates actives and ensures their release during application while creating attractive visual effects. Suitable for all kinds of personal care formulations, the cellulose beads can hold liquid or powder actives in suspension in colored spheres in all kinds of products containing water. Available in several colors, the inflated Cosmospheres maintain their spherical shape throughout the shelf life of the final product. A light rubbing during application then allows the spheres to break up and release their contents, without leaving any residue. Charcoal Cosmospheres toothpaste was on display at in-Cosmetics, while many other formulations could be discussed with Omya's experts.

For the creation of complete solutions tailored to current consumer demand, Omya offers a broad distribution portfolio that includes, among others, natural colorants for decorative cosmetics. For example, a trendy palette of dispersible reds based on radish, sweet potato or elderberry was presented at the show.

Stefan Lander, Vice President Consumer Goods, Group Sales & Marketing at Omya, says: " We believe that our technical expertise gives us the opportunity to develop cosmetic products that are good for the consumer and for the environment. We are proud to contribute to pioneering solutions that respect nature, biodiversity and the importance of human health, while supporting our customers' manufacturing processes.

Reducing waste and overproduction starts with supply chain transparency

Waste, overproduction and sustainability are central issues for companies and consumers in France and around the world.

According to " The Missing Billions: The True Cost of Supply Chain Waste a recent study conducted by Avery Dennison, overproduction and waste exacerbate the supply chain crisis and affect an average of 3.6 % of companies' annual profits, because nearly 8 % of inventory is lost or thrown away each year.

In France 4.1 % of inventory is wasted each year due to deterioration of or damage to the products and 3.5 additional % are discarded due to overproduction. This loss represents billions of euros of inventory.

The report surveyed 318 global companies and the data revealed that while 80% of companies in France are fully aware of the problem and are investing in technology solutions, they are still not spending the budget to solve it. French respondents say that on average 25.3 % of their organization's impact on sustainability comes from the supply chain. However, only 3.7 % of technology budgets on average are specifically dedicated to improving sustainability.

In addition, more than nine out of 10 companies analyzed said they are under pressure to become more sustainable. Professionals surveyed identified "budget constraints" as the top challenges to supply chain resilience.

In order to improve the visibility and traceability of the supply chain, the report also highlights the intention to address these issues. Indeed, 41 % of French organizations already indicate using RFID for product identification and 45.90 % are considering adoption.

Some leading brands have already taken the plunge. As Jérôme Lemay, Industrial Director for RFID at Decathlon, explains: "Ghanks to investments in RFID, Decathlon has seen significant improvements in its operations. We have reduced markdowns, increased sales and profitability at the item level and improved efficiency at the point of sale. Real-time inventory management also allows Decathlon to automatically replenish inventory and improve efficiency. Going forward, opportunities for digital ID solutions within Decathlon include improving upstream visibility into our raw material suppliers to better align availability with demand. We are also currently piloting solutions for consumer engagement to facilitate communication around topics such as sports coaching and sustainable practices. "

" The current disruption of the supply chain is leading to a waste crisis, making advocacy for sustainable practices even more urgent and necessary, "Francisco Melo, senior vice president and general manager of Avery Dennison Smartrac, adds.

" Organizations have an opportunity to accelerate digital transformation that will help create longer-term systemic change. The moral and economic arguments are clear and the study shows the willingness of organizations to embrace technological advances for the benefit of business and the planet. "

Mr. Melo adds, " Digital triggers, such as radio frequency identification or RFID, provide highly efficient and accurate end-to-end visibility. Connected products not only shed light on supply chains, but also reveal valuable new information for consumers to make better decisions, including transparency and carbon footprint data. "

The report also looked at consumer habits and found a shift in the desire for sustainable products, purchasing sustainable products being ranked by more than one in two French consumers (52%) among the top five concerns.

Company initiatives for greater transparency can also benefit consumers. 41% of French consumers place " greater transparency on materials and ingredients The company's "sustainability" criteria are at the top of the list for brands to help them make more sustainable purchases in the areas of apparel, cosmetics and food.

Coverpla supports a new launch in Asia

Bottle, cap, pump..., this launch of the Pirate Song perfume for the Asian brand Daniche, illustrates the agility of the turnkey offer and the magic of mix and match.

Daniche is a perfume house of Vietnamese origin. It claims natural fragrances. Pirate Song is one of them. Its launch coincides with the recent opening of a flagship store in Saigon that will offer a full range of products (perfumes, scented candles, reed diffusers, hand and body washes).

For the launch of Pirate Song, Daniche Parfum chose Coverpla's support and in its catalog, all the components of its primary packaging.

Elegant simplicity

"Each of our fragrances offers a beautiful story. Coverpla was fortunate enough to participate. The brand chose the Mystère bottle in its 50 ml format, an in-house design also offered in a 100 ml version. Daniche selected the Top Passion cap, tinted in shiny silver, to accompany it, as well as the matching accessories (pump, pump cover).

In the same spirit of naturalness, a label printed on an elegant screened paper is added.

This launch is based on an agile development model whose mix and match of standard elements and choice of finishes promise a beautiful identity.

Global Bioenergies launches its second cosmetic ingredient: Isonaturan 16

Global Bioenergies announces the launch of its second cosmetic ingredient, one year after launching Isonaturan 12 at In-Cosmetics Paris.

Isonaturane 12 is the natural version of isododecane, a twelve-carbon molecule obtained by assembling three naturally occurring isobutene molecules produced by Global Bioenergies. During the synthesis of isododecane, some of the molecules combine not in threes, but in fours. The result is isohexadecane, a 16-carbon molecule that is also widely used in cosmetics.

In order to valorize this isododecane co-product, Global Bioenergies has developed the purification process for the molecule, defined the technical specifications, entrusted toxicological studies to a recognized company in the field, and registered the molecule with the European regulatory system Reach.

The Company now has the first volumes of this new ingredient, and is making them available to its future customers: brand owners, processors and distributors. It is now marketing this new ingredient of natural origin, according to the ISO 16128 standard, and 100 % made in France under the name "Isonaturane 16 ".

Daphne Galvez, Global Bioenergies business manager, says: " Isododecane is used in many product categories, and is recognized as the key ingredient for the formulation of long-lasting, waterproof and transfer-free make-up. Isohexadecane is mainly used in skincare, where its properties as a texture agent are similar to those of silicones. Isohexadecane can advantageously replace them, and thus improve the environmental profile of finished products. "

Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies, says: " Isobutene represents, by mass, about 5 % of all cosmetic inputs. At least nine cosmetic ingredients are derived from it. The two most important in terms of volume are, by far, isododecane and isohexadecane, and this is why we wanted to go down the value chain, to the production and sale of the ingredients themselves, for these two molecules. Our priority today is to continue our efforts to scale up our bio-based isobutene production process, in order to make it available at a decreasing cost for applications in the cosmetics field but also in other industrial sectors also concerned about reducing their carbon footprint. "

Neurocosmetic Power to Look and Feel Good

TiMOOD™ is a neurocosmetic active addressing the trend of emotional wellbeing in beauty. Based on timut pepper, it provides an even skin complexion and improves the mood.

Emotional beauty to improve wellbeing

In a global society characterized by more and more people feeling stressed, the concept of emotional wellbeing, which is the ability to adapt to stressful situations and produce positive emotions, has become increasingly important. Whereas self-care in beauty, such as beauty rituals, can help to boost mental health, a more relaxed state of mind, in turn, can improve skin appearance, as stress is a well-known inducer of skin problems. Skin that feels good can boost one's mood; not only consciously due to a visible improvement of the facial appearance but also unconsciously via the skin-brain connection.

Skin-brain connection by the nervous system

Our skin contains a dense network of sensory neurons, which are peripheral nerve cells that link the skin and the brain. This supply of the skin with nerves functions as a sensor to warn the body of danger, such as heat coming from the environment. Cutaneous nerves, however, also respond to endogenous stimuli and emotions. Sensory neurons can impact physiological functions, such as inflammation and cell growth, and thus skin health through secreted factors, which are called neuropeptides. Aged skin shows a natural decline of the dense network of neurons, which may be linked to impaired skin functions and skin-brain communication.

Timut pepper to improve skin and mood

Based on dried fruits of the timut pepper plant (Zanthoxylum alatum), TiMOOD™ is a novel active that protects neurons from aging and thereby supports an even skin complexion but also improves wellbeing. As member of the citrus family, timut pepper is not a real pepper, but a spice plant that grows in the Himalayas. Due to their biological activities, the bark, seeds, and fruits of this plant have a long history in traditional medicine, amongst others to treat depression as well as skin irritation and wounds. In our research, we have already studied a timut pepper extract for application in food supplements and observed improved cognitive functions, which may indicate increased neural efficiency in the brain.

Timut pepper protects neurons in the skin

The effect of TiMOOD™ on neurons in the skin was tested in a coculture model of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes, treated with timut pepper extract. The treatment led to a higher number of neurons and increased neurite length compared to the untreated control, indicating a protective effect against neuronal aging. In addition, the proliferation rate of keratinocytes and the release of dopamine were increased. A higher number of keratinocytes could enhance the growth of neurites by growth factor release. Dopamine, known as a neurotransmitter in the brain, can be also released by keratinocytes, and is involved in skin microcirculation and barrier function. Thus, by stimulating keratinocyte growth and protecting neurons, timut pepper extract supports skin-brain communication and a functional and healthy-looking skin.

Homogenous skin complexion by TiMOODTM

To assess the effect of TiMOOD™ on the skin, a clinical study was performed on a panel of volunteers feeling stressed. The volunteers used either a face cream containing 2 % TiMOOD™ or a placebo cream for 28 days. The treatment with TiMOOD™ resulted in a significant improvement of skin tone evenness. The positive effect on skin complexion was confirmed by an expert grading which showed increased evenness of the complexion and skin luminosity, a reduced skin redness, and a fresher and healthier complexion after the 28-day treatment with TiMOOD™. These results were confirmed by the volunteers in a self-assessment questionnaire.

Improved emotional wellbeing by TiMOOD™

In the same study, a neuropsychological approach was used to test emotional wellbeing. The EmoCompass® is a market research tool that is usually used for fast-moving consumer goods. The application in the field of neurocosmetics is a novelty. For the test, the volunteers answered the question "How do you feel?" non-verbally by generating emotional patterns consisting of coded shapes and colors on a computer screen. The results of the test showed an improvement in emotional wellbeing in terms of a less stressed and more relaxed state of the volunteers who used the cream with 2 % TiMOOD™ for 28 days.

To summarize, TiMOOD is a neurocosmetic active based on timut pepper to improve skin complexion and emotional wellbeing targeting the skin-brain axis. The "look good - feel good" concept was proven by a combination of studies and provides the customer an ideal active ingredient for mood boosting and relaxing cosmetics that covers the trend topics emotional wellbeing and neurocosmetics.

EcoVadis 2023: the Albea group wins the gold medal

For the fourth consecutive time, the Albéa Group's commitment to corporate social responsibility (CSR) has been rewarded with the EcoVadis Gold Medal.

With an overall score of 71, 3 points higher than last year, Albéa is among the top 5 % companies evaluated and among the top 2 % companies rated in the "Plastic Products Manufacturing" business sector.

As last year, Albéa's sustainability performance in the "environment" category stands out with a score of 80, reflecting the efforts made by the group to reduce its impact on the environment at all levels. In the "labor and human rights" category, Albéa has improved its score from 60 in 2022 to 70 for this year.

The Fedrigoni Group innovates for the protection of brands

Fedrigoni's Paper and Self-Adhesives divisions have jointly designed solutions capable of guaranteeing the integrity, origin and traceability of products. These solutions are aimed at converters and luxury brands.

Guaranteeing, or even tracing, the authenticity and integrity of products in the age of e-commerce is a challenge for brands. The originality and exclusivity of a product are the integrity of a brand, the expression of its quality and prestige. These values play a key role in consumers' buying preferences.

For the Fedrigoni GroupIn order to achieve this, it was necessary to go further in this field by offering a complete range of paper products and self-adhesive materials for brand protection, all of which are compatible with the group's environmental policy.

Multiple solutions

Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives has designed multiple brand protection solutions 100 % customizable this offer covers all requirements for creating seals on self-adhesive materials and packaging: security labels (Void), customizable films that, when removed, leave a design or text on the support and cannot be repositioned; materials that, once applied, tear or disintegrate when an attempt is made to peel them off; customizable holographic supports with different levels of security; tamper-evident solutions specially designed to tear the box on which these labels are affixed in the event of an attempt to open the package...

Some security papers can incorporate fibers, confetti and other special pigments. There are also dyes, fibers or other elements directly added to the paper pulp or surface treatments containing reactive inks, embossing or watermarks.

Each solution is visible to the naked eye, to the touch, or detectable with specialized equipment.

"The authenticity, safety and integrity of brands, products and packaging are economic and image issues"says Michele De Pascalis, product manager for security products. "With this range, we intend to provide an effective and transversal response".

With a long experience in the field of security and with an R&D department mobilized in the development and experimentation of cutting-edge technologies, Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives is committed to fight against a phenomenon that harms brands as much as consumers and, consequently, an entire economy. The problem is not only that a counterfeit product is marketed at the price of the original or that it may be dangerous to health, the problem is that original items are diverted from the networks and escape the control of the manufacturer.

Targeted acquisitions

The Fedrigoni Group is strengthening its presence in this sector through targeted acquisitions. In April 2022, the group acquired the French company Tageos, a world leader in the design and production of RFID inserts and tags for self-adhesive labels. Recently, it was Arjowiggins' research and development center in Grenoble, France, which promises to drive innovation in printed electronics and advanced research on paper media using RFID. Indeed, smart paper can directly host circuits and microchips, without conflicting with the "single material" strategy essential to the valorization of end-of-life products.

 

Nutrikéo creates a new division dedicated to cosmetics

Since 2009, Nutrikéo's scientists and strategy and marketing experts have been deploying their knowledge of the nutrition ecosystem, according to a virtuous and sustainable founding vision.

"Where cosmetics meet nutrition", or the creation of the new Nutrikéo cluster

Based in France, Nutrikéo is the think tank for nutrition strategies. Thanks to our ability to simplify the complexities of life sciences, we support innovation and development projects in the food, nutraceuticals, health and, now, cosmetics sectors.
" The bridges between cosmetics and nutrition have long been numerous. The creation of a division dedicated to cosmetics is an essential step for Nutrikéo, in view of our expertise in terms of innovation, but also of the development of the
nutricosmetic dietary supplements, which we have already been working on for some time. We are convinced that the holistic approach to beauty, like the future of cosmetics, can only include nutrition.
"Grégory Dubourg, CEO and founder of Nutrikéo.

Our expertise for a changing industry
Through this new business unit, we support customers on 7 pillars:
- Market research, monitoring, trends
- Innovation, development/formulation in nutricosmetics
- BtoB & BtoC marketing strategy
- Marketing and scientific communication
- Nutritional education & holistic beauty
- Speaking and training
- Strategic due diligence
More specifically, this cluster is aimed at ingredient suppliers, cosmetics and nutricosmetics brands, and formulators. These are all players that Nutrikéo is already familiar with through its founding Food, Nutra and Health divisions.

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