Today's make-up market is in the midst of a revolution, with consumer demand for more skincare linked to the "skincareization" trend. Skincare is influencing make-up with new textures and trends. To create sensorial textures inspired by skincare (O/W foundation, cream gel, etc.) involving external aqueous phases, formulators need hydrophilically-coated pigments to optimize foundation coverage and achieve good make-up performance.
In response to this trend, Seppic has challenged its polymers and emulsifiers to obtain compatibility data for hydrophilic pigments in powder and dispersed liquid form. The results will help formulators choose appropriate products and create beautiful textures with this type of pigment. Seppic has also developed formulas to inspire make-up formulators, and tested some chassis for non-transfer and coverage.
From polymers to emulsifiers, many Seppic ingredients have good compatibility with the hydrophilic pigments tested (in powder form with a different coating or a liquid dispersion) in cream-gel and emulsion form. Among the polymers tested:
⇒ Sepimax Zentm (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), the high-performance polymer
⇒ Solagumtm AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum ), the best-performing natural polymer
Various polymers also give good results, such as Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), Sepiplus S (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Polyisobutene and PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether)Sepiplus 400 (Polyacrylate-13 and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) & Simugel NS (Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60 ). Seppic polymers enable O/W foundations to be formulated as emulsions, with the possibility of adjusting the percentage of polymers and emulsifiers to obtain a wide range of viscosities.
For emulsifiers, there are several high-performance ingredients depending on the sensoriality required: Sensanov WR (C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate and C20-22 Alcohols)Montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside)Fluidifeel Easy (Lauryl Glucoside and Myristyl Glucoside and Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) ... Seppic offers solutions ranging from comfortable to very natural foundations, from thick to fluid textures.
As consumers increasingly seek non-transferability and high coverage, Seppic has carried out measurements in emulsion chassis. Its simple formulas are transfer-free like a W/Si market benchmark, and performed better than a water-based foundation benchmark.
It's possible to discover a hybrid foundation by trying Seppic's Natural foundation (formula EU07556), an O/W emulsion containing 15% of hydrophilic pigments. This balancing natural emulsion provides high coverage without transfer to even out skin tone.
