Since 2002, Lessonia's core business and expertise has been the design and manufacture of cosmetic ingredients. At a time when environmental awareness is on the rise, and consumers are keen to avoid using cosmetics containing decried ingredients, Lessonia offers new perspectives with a new range of functional ingredients.
These plant-based ingredients are technical alternatives to criticized ingredients. For example, they offer alternatives to synthetic polymers, talc, surfactants and modified starches.
To develop and manufacture this range, Lessonia is capitalizing on its industrial tools for transforming plant powders and on its formulation know-how. It's a strategic shift away from its core business of manufacturing exfoliating particles and micronized plant powders.
This range is the result of an R&D project aimed at identifying the potential cosmetic applications of numerous white and colorless plant raw materials. One of the main objectives of this development was to propose plant-based solutions with no negative organoleptic impact in formulas.
The Alter-Powders range is made up of six ingredients whose functions are to emulsify, thicken, gel...
Alter-Emulfaba is the first emulsifier on the market made exclusively from natural 100 % plant extracts, without chemical grafting. Easy to use with few incompatibilities, it enables the formulation of very white emulsions with a very soft, non-sticky, non-soap sensoriality. It is a powder emulsifier, based on plant extracts and gums, without chemical modification. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to the surfactants normally used in emulsions.
Alter-Thickbarley is a high-viscosity 100 % powder thickener of plant and natural origin, used to formulate thick, rich but non-greasy textures with a powdery effect. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is an alternative to modified starches and synthetic polymers. It maintains perfect whiteness, even during heat treatment.
Alter-Gelijac is a 100% powdered gelling agent of plant and natural origin, enabling high viscosity and translucent gels to be obtained. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to xanthan gum, carbomers and synthetic polymers. It leaves a protective film on the skin and a pleasant sensation of freshness. It can be used hot or cold.
Alter-Gelitium is a 100% powdered gelling agent of plant and natural origin that can be used to formulate transparent aqueous gels or as a co-emulsifier or suspending agent. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to synthetic polymers.
Alter-Suspensilia is a 100% powdered suspension agent of plant and natural origin, made from Sterculia gum, the resin of the Sterculia tree. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is an alternative to synthetic polymers. It has high suspending power and low viscosity.
Alter-Talcanioc, an ingredient to formulate a hydrophobic powder. This functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to talc with the same hydrophobic properties. It is ideal for protecting the skin against moisture, and will be the perfect natural, plant-based ingredient to formulate baby powders, make-up or even be used as a touch-up agent.
Interview with Morgane Boucher, R&D Manager
What problems encountered in cosmetic formulations motivated you to develop this range?
Many of the Inci used in our formulations are criticized for posing a health risk to consumers or having a negative impact on the environment. Talc, for example, has been banned in the USA. Lessonia aims to offer upcycled, natural and plant-based ingredients and raw materials to its customers. Our ambition has therefore been to respond to a more responsible and ethical demand by developing a range of natural, plant-based white powders that also meet the needs of formulators.
What are the special features of these alternative powders?
The alternative powders in the Alter-Powders range are natural, plant-based, Cosmos-compliant and Ok Chine. The powders are white or very light-colored and odorless. Bringing these two criteria together was very ambitious, and we're delighted to be able to offer these alternative natural ingredients.
In this range, is there an ingredient that required more constraints for its development?
Yes, especially for Alter-Suspensilia. At Lessonia, we manufacture our own micronized powders and exfoliating particles. It was therefore obvious for us to develop a natural gelling agent to keep our raw materials in suspension. Exfoliating particles can be dense and heavy, so a great deal of R&D went into developing a gelling agent to optimize the presence of these particles and keep them in suspension.
How long did it take you to develop this range?
We worked on the development of this new range for over a year. Alter-Powders is the result of extensive R&D work. In fact, we screened over 50 raw materials for our sourcing. The aim was to target the main property of each material. A great deal of work went into optimizing processes and combinations to obtain the most effective formulation of our ingredients for formulators. We put a lot of effort into this innovative project. Today, the whole team is proud to see this project come to fruition, and to present it at our trade shows and customer visits.
