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Cosmet'Agora: original ingredients, professionals at the rendezvous

The first trade show of the year for the sector, the 15th edition of Cosmet'Agora brought together on January 10 and 11, 2023, in Paris, all the key players in cosmetics - French and European - interested in ingredients and their formulations.

There was a big crowd, at the beginning of this year, at the Espace Champerret, in Paris. With some 6,350 participants - visitors, exhibitors, organizers - the French Society of Cosmetology can be proud of having organized an event that is highly appreciated by professionals!

The red threads of this year 2023: naturalness, of course, but also a wave of freshness materialized by all the concepts presented at the Formulation Award whose theme was... the wave. On the program of the show, notably: the presentation of innovative active ingredients as well as new product ranges.

As an example, Agrimer has highlighted its new active ingredient Algafiller - Anti-aging - Surge Like. This ingredient is objectified in vitro and in vivo on its lipofilling activity, filler, improvement of the firmness and density of the dermis. The result of several years of research on extraction technologies and upcycling, it is extracted from Codium tomentosuma chlorophycean alga with a coenocytic structure. This algae sourced in Brittany is made up of a single giant cell with a strong capacity for healing and regeneration.

Mibelle Biochemistry turned to Greece to design CALMandrin, an ingredient obtained by upcycling the peels of organic mandarins from the island of Chios to combat "inflammaging." According to the company, it improves the signs of aging and soothes redness and skin irritation, while increasing the firmness and density of the skin.

Lipoid Kosmetik sourced its ingredients from the same geographic area. The company presented an extract with de-stressing and antioxidant qualities, without caffeine, for skin regeneration during the night. Mountain Tea Pro, is an aqueous glycerine extract of organic mountain grass made from Sideritis Scardica, a plant with many properties.

With the contents of its "Spa at home box", Solabia has presented ten formulas that allow you to take time for yourself with care routines for the face and body. The company worked on two complementary axes: efficiency and personalization. Among the ingredients used is Neoglow, an active ingredient obtained from organic kale from Brittany to boost skin renewal. It is the key ingredient in an emulsion with a frosted texture that can be customized with nude (nourishing) and green (lifting) care beads.

Apioskin, a natural plumping active ingredient with moisturizing properties, derived from duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza), purified and enriched with apiogalacturonans that give it a highly hygroscopic power, and Lightskin, a natural depigmenting active ingredient rich in sulfur peptides, are among the active ingredients highlighted by Silab.

Biobased active ingredients

Croda took advantage of the show to highlight a natural cellulose powder, ChromaPur, an alternative to microplastic balls. Crodarom, manufacturer of plant extracts, a subsidiary of the group, presented Zanthocare, a Sichuan pepper extract that has been proven to reduce body odor and respect the skin microbiome.

Based on the results of new tests, Exsymol has positioned its active ingredients within a "Body confidence" range, composed for the moment of three silanols: Algisium (for an overall improvement of the figure), Cafeisilane (to specifically reduce cellulite on the thighs) and Hydroxyprolisilane (which promotes the firmness of the thighs). A fourth ingredient will be unveiled at In-Cosmetics.

Global Bioenergies transforms sugars (beet molasses, wheat glucose syrup, agricultural and forestry waste) into naturally occurring isobutene, a product that the company then uses to make biosourced isododecane, a highly prized element in the formulation of long-lasting makeup. Global Bioenergies has also launched its Last makeup brand to highlight its products and expertise.

For demonstration purposes, CLR presented an anhydrous cleanser to emulsify with water. This formulation features its ingredients CutiBiome CLR (to regulate skin dysbiosis related to acne), MultiMoist CLR (to deeply plump and moisturize the skin), Cutiguard CLR (anti-aging used here for its unifying effect on the complexion), as well as a purifying clay.

Inspired by the "Blue Beauty" trend, the company Seppic presented a collection of seven formulas composed of products derived from marine resources, Seqens for its part honored lemon verbena with its active Titr'Extract French Verbena. Far from being exhaustive, this overview of Cosmet'Agora 2023 shows the richness of the French and European offer in terms of active ingredients.

Among the distributors represented, IES Ingredients highlighted its offer as well as Neptune, a balm-shampoo developed in its application laboratory and presented at the Formulation Award. With no added fragrance or water, it contains Pentavitin (DSM) for intense hydration, Alpaflor Edelweiss CB (DSM), Sageguard Crop-P (Aethera Biotech), a peppermint extract (Mayflower) and a peppermint essential oil FFL (Albert Vieille). Originality of the formulation: a semi-solid texture which is transformed at the temperature of the skin into oil easy to apply. The water is then used to lather and clean the hair without leaving any residue or greasy effect.

Also among the exhibitors of the show: specialists and experts of the test as Expertox (laboratory of test and toxicological expertise) or SGS Idea (entity of SGS following the acquisition of Idea Tests). Skinobs highlighted the new sections of its Preclinical platform (In silico and Advice).

Among the few equipment manufacturers, the Finnish company Delfin Technologies did not miss the call to present its portable measuring instruments designed to analyze the properties of the skin and the effects of products applied to the skin. Also present, Misceo, which now distributes its products in Australia, was able to showcase its new turboagitators developed for mid-range products to meet the needs of R&D laboratories.

The 2023 Formulation Award: a tidal wave of original concepts

An event within an event, the formulation prize rewards the most innovative formulas at each edition of Cosmet'Agora. This year, 68 projects were submitted to the jury of experts. The theme imposed for this 2023 edition: the wave. Four projects were rewarded.
Givaudan Active Beauty received the first prize with its L'O concept, a lifting skin care product enriched with seaweed. This "intelligent" gel-textured emulsion, dedicated to reshaping the oval of the face, was made with Gravityl, a new natural 100 % anti-gravity facial care ingredient developed by Givaudan Active Beauty. According to the company, L'O stimulates skin elasticity, regenerates cells, reorganizes collagen and hydrates the skin at the highest level.
The second prize was awarded to Symrise for its Beach Sand Face Cleansing Foam formulation. This waterless cleansing foam is based on the SymReboot L19 ingredient, a fermented active developed with respect for the skin's microbiome that soothes, moisturizes and strengthens even sensitive skin, according to its developers. "With Beach Sand Face Cleansing Foam the powder transforms into a sparkling foam when mixed with water and provides the gentlest cleansing experience," Symrise says.
Third prize: SurfactGreen, thanks to its formula based on CosmeGreen MB1618. Gliss & Green Hydramask is a moisturizing face mask based on glycerin. Rinsable with water, this mask offers according to SurfactGreen "a tidal wave of glycerine providing hydration and vitality.
Saci-CFPA received the Coup de Coeur award for its Cure des Haliades, a rejuvenating two-phase serum-in-oil. Inspired by the beauty of sea nymphs, this regenerating and surfacing anti-aging serum is enriched with marine bio-retinol, extracted from a specific fraction of Mediterranean microalgae, and Moringa oil, appreciated for its regenerating capacity.
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