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A groundbreaking test to assess the ecotoxicology of cosmetics on corals

SGS, the world leader in cosmetics testing, inspection and certification, has teamed up with the Ephyla laboratory, via its EcoSeaStems initiative, to develop a complementary ecotoxicology test on corals.

The "ReefTox" test aims to assess the toxicological impact of a cosmetic ingredient or product on a population of corals representative of tropical/indopacific bathing areas (known as the "coral triangle"). Contrary to what already exists on the market, this new test developed by Vincent Bourgeteau, biologist at EcoSeaStems, evaluates the toxicity of products on 50 species/specimens of hard and soft corals (ReefTox50) to obtain a true representation of the coral population. A version on 12 corals (ReefTox12) is also proposed in case of doubt about the product or formula, to avoid the risk of damaging too many cuttings.

"Over the past 1 year, our customers' requests for tests have increasingly focused on the ecotoxicity and biodegradability of their products, enabling them to verify the effect of an ingredient or finished product on the environment. Testing the impact of sunscreen products on corals enables us to support our customers in their quest for naturalness. This new partnership is in line with our approach, initiated more than 20 years ago, of carrying out ecotoxicology (and biodegradability) tests on raw materials and cosmetic formulas in seawater and freshwater".says François Richeux, COO Cosmetics and Hygiene at SGS Group.

"We're proud to have succeeded in developing this test, the first of its kind in France. We began working on the subject in 2020, at the start of containment. Worldwide, a large number of cosmetics laboratories have banned chemical UV filters and switched to mineral filters. ReefTox is the ideal solution for measuring the impact of these reformulations on coral environments.says Vincent Bourgeteau.

Corals, essential to the ecosystem 

Corals, which come together to form coral reefs, are home to 25 % of our planet's marine life - nearly two million different species living in, on and around the world's reefs. Some 500 million people live off corals. Yet it is estimated that around a quarter of the world's coral reefs have already suffered irreversible damage, and two-thirds are seriously threatened. The cause: human activities that are gradually degrading marine habitats.

The foundations of an unprecedented test 

To assess the short- and medium-term impact of a cosmetic ingredient on 50 species of coral, the corals are placed in a seawater aquarium whose physico-chemical parameters (temperature, pH, oxidation-reduction, salinity) are controlled to meet coral culture requirements. After an adaptation period (two hours), the sample to be tested is dosed and then placed in contact with the corals for approximately 24 hours. During this period, regular monitoring of water physicochemical parameters, general condition and coral survival is carried out by and under the supervision of a coral aquaculture specialist. At the end of the contact period, the corals are transferred to quarantine aquariums, containing standardized seawater, for a period of two weeks. During this quarantine period, the general condition and survival of the corals, as well as physico-chemical parameters, are regularly monitored by a coral aquaculture specialist. Evaluation of the survival and general condition of the corals, as well as the various physico-chemical parameters during the contact and quarantine periods, enables short- and medium-term assessment of the impact of the products to be tested.

SGS, a global offer for the world of cosmetics in search of naturalness 

With globally recognized expertise in cosmetics testing, auditing and certification, SGS France carries out over 15,000 tests every year and works with over 800 customers to offer a wide range of services to help brands verify the safety, quality and performance of their products, and support them in their green transition process. This involves verifying that cosmetics and personal care products comply with the requirements of applicable regulations and other relevant regulations on cosmetics, aerosols and hazardous substances. SGS experts can also verify the compliance of products and manufacturing processes with various social and environmental standards. At the same time, in the context of the circular economy, SGS teams are in great demand when it comes to bulk, reusable packaging (recycled or not) for technical, dosage and regulatory issues.

Groupe Berkem signs distribution agreement with Azelis

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, has announced the signature of an agreement with Azelis, a major global provider of innovation services in the specialty chemicals and food ingredients sectors, for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in Thailand and South Korea.

Azelis is a leading global provider of innovation services in the specialty chemicals sectors, and a trusted partner for companies wishing to develop their activities in Southeast Asian markets. The company has an extensive presence in the region, with offices and laboratories dedicated to the Personal Care sector across the Asia-Pacific region, as well as strategic partnerships with chemical suppliers worldwide. Azelis Asia-Pacific provides a comprehensive portfolio of innovative solutions for the life sciences and industrial chemicals sectors across multiple applications.

With this new distribution agreement, and in line with previous agreements, Groupe Berkem affirms and reinforces its strategy of international networking via specialized distributors, in the Thai and South Korean cosmetics industry markets, for its plant-based ingredients.


Thailand's fast-growing cosmetics industry is Asean's third-largest market, after Indonesia and the Philippines, driven by growing consumer demand for innovative, high-quality cosmetics. The South Korean cosmetics market is one of the largest in the world, particularly in the area of skin care. Korean consumers are known to be very demanding when it comes to the quality and innovation of their beauty products.

Éric Moussu, Groupe Berkem Sales Director, comments: "We are proud to be pursuing our international development strategy by relying on high-quality specialist distributors like Azelis, who are recognized in their markets. We are constantly working to improve and offer our expertise and products internationally in key growth markets such as Southeast Asia. We continue to demonstrate the flexibility that enables us to fully adapt to the specificities and local regulations of the markets we serve, drawing on our own know-how and that of our partners. We are very pleased with this distribution agreement and to be able to benefit from Azelis' influence in the South-East Asian markets".

Kimberly Chung, Director of Business Development for Azelis Asia-Pacific, adds: "The integration of Groupe Berkem's range of plant-derived ingredients represents a real enrichment for our product portfolio aimed at the Thai and South Korean cosmetics markets. Indeed, its innovative character and naturalness benefits correspond perfectly to the demanding criteria of our customers in these countries. We thank Groupe Berkem for its confidence in Azelis and look forward to working together to bring our customers combined technical expertise and innovative formulations."

Sun protection: recommendations that go unheeded

At the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD), to be held in Singapore from July 4 to 7, Pierre Fabre's Patient Relations Department will be presenting new results, as part of its Safe "Sunscreen Assessment Family Experience" program, initiated in 2021. 

For over 30 years, health authorities have been running prevention campaigns, hammering home the same messages and recommendations to protect against the harmful effects of the sun. However, the first results of the Safe study, published at the beginning of 2022, have shown that behavior in terms of sun prevention is not in line with public health recommendations. 

"70% of children were exposed to the sun during the hottest hours of the day, and only 13.1% of adults received adequate sun protection. It is with the aim of better understanding these results that the Safe program, piloted by the Fabre patient relations department for the Avène brand, is continuing this year with a new survey, involving 50,000 people, including 4,000 in France".says Dr. Gautier Doat, Eau Thermale Avène Medical Director. 

This latest phase of the program highlights several lessons. If the majority of the population protects itself poorly from the sun, it's mainly because they've forgotten. In addition, almost a quarter of the population uses no sun protection at all. In addition, the prevention of skin cancer is not often cited as a reason for sun protection; sunburn and skin ageing are the most frequently cited arguments. Women seem to protect themselves better than men, and few people with phototypes IV to VI use regular sun protection. There are also disparities between age groups; depending on the generation, the reasons for photoprotection are very different.

A survey conducted on social networks, in partnership with start-up Kap Code, sheds further light on the analysis of these sun protection behaviors.

In particular, she highlighted three strong convictions justifying the misuse of sunscreen products: there's no need to protect yourself from the sun when your skin is already tanned; there's no point in applying sunscreen when the sun is weak; and there's no point in applying sunscreen when swimming.
"To make prevention campaigns more impactful and effective, they need to be adapted because they are too far removed from consumers' concerns, so that everyone feels understood and therefore concerned. The role of health professionals is important in this respect, particularly that of the pharmacist, from whom the majority of suncare products are purchased (nearly 60% of children's suncare products in pharmacies and parapharmacies), to provide consumers with personalized advice and respond to their concerns".concludes Catherine Baissac, Doctor of Pharmacy, Head of Patient and Consumer Relations at Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics & Personal Care.

The 2nd Safe study was carried out in 20 countries, with almost 50,000 people surveyed. The aim was to find out whether people were aware of the recommendations, why they followed them and why they didn't, according to age, gender, ethnic group and geographical area. 

The Kap Code study is a study of sun protection behavior based on an analysis of health-related social networks. The results of this study are based on data retrieved from social networks over 6 years (from 2017 to 2022) via keywords relating to photoprotection and sun exposure behavior.

A "naturally aluminum" decor

Chanel continues its transformation towards eco-responsibility. Its Chance de Chanel eaux de toilette now feature an anodized aluminum band made in France, instead of the lacquered galvanized brass used until now. 

To meet the challenge of this change of material, the luxury brand called on the expertise of g.pivaudran.

The choice of aluminum in a reinforced CSR approach

For all its lines, Chanel has a strong objective: to move towards CSR products. To accessorize its new Chance bottles, Chanel called on the expertise of g.pivaudran. The band around the bottle, originally made from varnished galvanized brass, is now made from anodized aluminum. These bands are made in France, in the Lot region, and assembled by the brand's partner glassmakers in France and Italy. While this change may be invisible to consumers, it is nevertheless a powerful symbolic act by Chanel: an eco-responsible transformation that is unostentatious, effective and concrete.

A major challenge for g.pivaudran

Manufacturing the strips for the Chance bottles was a real challenge for the g.pivaudran teams. They deployed the full extent of their know-how to shape a thin aluminum strip (0.6 mm), very delicately handled, to match the cylindrical curve of the bottle, while preserving the high gloss appearance of the material. A complex range, thanks to the flexibility of the strips, combined with the precision of automated assembly.

The manufacturer g.pivaudran has also positioned itself to produce all fragrance formats: 35 ml, 50 ml, 100 ml and 150 ml.

Chanel is launching these new bottles with the 100 ml version. All anodized aluminum formats will be available by 2024.

One achievement may hide another...

This project for Chanel is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of the possibilities offered by g.pivaudran. The company specializes in aluminum, adapting this material to meet the needs of all brands, as well as their eco-responsibility requirements. It offers "all-aluminum" and/or "recycled-aluminum" packaging solutions for premium and luxury products.

"Our expertise enables us to shape aluminum into any shape, to assemble various materials and thus solve our customers' current needs. Eco-responsible by nature, infinitely recyclable, light and versatile, aluminum is our answer to luxury brands' desire for added value".says Marc Pivaudran, President of g.pivaudran.

At the Édition Spéciale By Luxe Pack event, g.pivaudran will be showcasing a wide range of products created with its customers, as well as trials highlighting the value of aluminum, an inherently eco-responsible material. "The company will provide concrete proof that "naturally aluminum" packaging and accessories are also naturally top-of-the-range.the company says.

dsm-firmenich: Katharina Stenholm appointed Head of Sustainability

dsm-firmenich announces the appointment of Katharina Stenholm as Chief Sustainability Officer, effective July 1, 2023. In this role, she will develop a new, consolidated environmental, social and governance (ESG) strategy for the company, building on the strengths of DSM's and Firmenich's previous plans and actions.

Geraldine Matchett and Dimitri de Vreeze, co-CEOs of dsm-firmenich, commented: " We are delighted to welcome Katharina as our new Sustainability Director. She is widely recognized as an outstanding leader and innovator in the ESG field, and her vast experience and expertise will be invaluable in helping us achieve our goal. With her guidance and leadership, we are confident that we will have a positive impact on people and the planet, while building sustainable business growth. ".

Under Katharina's leadership, the company will begin to revise ambitious, measurable targets and plans to achieve them quickly in order to bring its goal to life. Building on DSM and Firmenich's strong approaches to sustainability, she will use her skills and experience to lead the development of a solid ESG strategy for DSM-Firmenich, creating sustainable value for all stakeholders.

I firmly believe that actions speak louder than words. "said Katharina Stenholm. " DSM and Firmenich are both historical leaders in ESG and have the credentials to prove it. dsm-firmenich brings together over 150 years of passion, experience and progress and I feel privileged to be able to shape the next chapter of the company's ESG adventure. I'm delighted to be joining a team that's up to the challenge and, together with our customers, partners and employees, we're ready to accelerate our positive impact. By combining what is essential, desirable and sustainable, we can bring progress to life and create a brighter future for all. ".

Katharina is a seasoned executive with extensive expertise in general management, procurement, sustainability and trade. She joins from PepsiCo, where she headed the European sustainability function. Previously, she held various positions at Danone, including Vice President Strategic Projects, General Manager DanTrade and General Manager Global Purchasing, where she was responsible for sustainability. She also held various positions at SabMiller, including global CEO, and was CEO of a food ingredients company in the Nordic countries, with worldwide sales.

Over the years, Katharina has established herself as a recognized leader in change management. Her expertise lies in leading market entry, transformation and business model redesign programs. She has in-depth knowledge of the entire food value chain, with a particular focus on sustainability and circular economy practices.

Katharina holds a PhD in Biotechnology from the Helsinki University of Technology in Finland.

dsm-firmenich is determined to continually expand its positive impact and set new standards to address the pressing issues of climate change, nature protection and social responsibility throughout the value chain. Working with customers and partners, dsm-firmenich is committed to proactively addressing current and future challenges, while making a positive difference to the planet and improving the lives of millions of people.

Zanthocare by Crodarom, to balance, protect and soothe the body's skin

Physical and mental well-being are at the heart of many of our concerns. The pressure to look good remains and has a strong impact on self-confidence. It is essential for consumers to accept their bodies and regain their self-esteem. This personal approach has rapidly developed into a worldwide movement: Body Positive. It invites us to transform our perception of ourselves and accept ourselves as we are. A new wave of holistic, honest and inclusive cosmetics is coming onto the market to challenge society's taboos. The skin on our bodies has the same needs as the skin on our faces. The "skinification" of body products seems to give it the same attention as our face. It's all about giving consumers the desire to take care of their bodies, and providing solutions to real problems (bad odors, dryness, irritation, hyperpigmentation, etc.). Body care beauty routines need to be improved and offer multi-functional, high-quality, high-performance ingredients that respect the skin microbiome.

Sichuan berry is the ideal ingredient for a complete body care treatment. Commonly used as a condiment in haute cuisine, this small berry endemic to China's Sichuan province belongs to the citrus botanical family. This multi-functional, universal and gender-neutral ingredient is proven to balance, protect and soothe, while respecting the skin's microbiome.

Zanthocare is an extract of the Sichuan berry, Zantoxylum bungeanum, in vegetable propylene glycol and water. The berries come from China. A 100% extract of natural origin according to Iso16128, preservative-free, Cosmos-approved, quantified in Xanthoxyline.

Active molecules / Associated properties :

  • Phenolic compounds (Xanthoxyline): Soothing, antioxidant,
  • Fatty acids: Lipase inhibitor, emollient, regenerating, smoothing
  • Organic acids: Antibacterial, astringent
  • Carbohydrates: Moisturizing, energizing

Santanol joins Union For Ethical Biotrade, reinforcing its commitment to biodiversity

Santanol is proud and honored to become a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), a non-profit association whose members work to regenerate nature and secure a better future for all people through the ethical sourcing of ingredients derived from biodiversity.

Membership of the UEBT demonstrates Santanol's commitment to assessing its sourcing policies and practices in Australia in accordance with ethical principles, and to promoting positive impacts for biodiversity and local communities.

We are delighted to join the UEBT as a member and are committed to a world in which all people and biodiversity thrive. "says Holly Birch, Santanol's Managing Director. " This membership is a milestone for Santanol. It demonstrates the ethical impact and biodiversity development we can achieve by growing sandalwood trees and producing our sandalwood oils in a sustainable way. ".

To be accepted as a member, Santanol completed the UEBT membership assessment by demonstrating compliance with the entry indicators and adopting a three-year work plan to continue improving the company's ethical sourcing practices.

As a member of the UEBT, we are committed to promoting practices that encourage the regeneration of nature and guarantee a better future for all." says Paul Moretta, Santanol's Technical Director.

Thanks to this collaboration, we are also aiming for future certification of our plantations. Membership of the UEBT is a tool that supports Santanol's ambitions to source in a way that respects people and biodiversity. Santanol has also been awarded an Ecovadis Gold Medal in 2023, once again demonstrating its commitment to best practice as an industry leader.

Emmanuel Butstraen appointed President of Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich

dsm-firmenich is pleased to announce the appointment of Emmanuel Butstraen as the new President of its Perfumery & Beauty business. Emmanuel, will assume this role from July 1, 2023 after a full handover from Ilaria Resta, while retaining his role as Chief Integration Officer.

Since May 2022, Emmanuel has been instrumental in the success of the dsm-firmenich merger, and thanks to his efforts, all integration planning activities have been set up for execution across the organization. Supported by a top-level team in the company's integration management office, Emmanuel will continue to oversee the integration while assuming the role of global leader in Fragrances and Beauty.

Prior to his appointment as Chief Integration Officer, Emmanuel had been President of Taste & Beyond at Firmenich since 2018. Under his leadership, the company has undergone a transformational journey, becoming a global partner of choice for innovation. He also brings extensive experience in the personal care sector, having previously served as President of Solvay's Novecare global business unit. Prior to this, he spent 17 years at BASF, where he held the position of Strategic Vice President, Agricultural Products Division. Emmanuel holds a degree in agricultural engineering and an MBA from the University of Lille, France.

With the arrival of Emmanuel, dsm-firmenich will bid farewell to Ilaria Resta, who will leave the company on July 1 to take up a CEO position with a prestigious watchmaking company. An extensive transfer process has begun, and the company expresses its gratitude for her contributions and wishes her every success.

Geraldine Matchett and Dimitri de Vreeze, joint managing directors of dsm-firmenich, commented on the event: " We are delighted to announce the appointment of Emmanuel Butstraen as President of our Fragrance & Beauty business. His deep understanding of our customers and exceptional leadership skills have delivered outstanding results. With his in-depth consumer knowledge and passion for fragrance, personal care and innovation, Emmanuel will strengthen dsm-firmenich's position as the partner of choice for our customers, enabling them to enhance and strengthen their brands. ".

In his new role as President of Perfumery & Beauty, Emmanuel will report to Co-CEO Dimitri de Vreeze.

In partnership with Ephyla, SGS France offers ReefTox

SGS, the world leader in cosmetics testing, inspection and certification, has teamed up with the Ephyla laboratory, via its EcoSeaStems initiative, to develop a complementary ecotoxicology test on corals.
A genuine innovation, the "ReefTox" test aims to assess the toxicological impact of a cosmetic ingredient or product on a population of corals representative of tropical/indopacific bathing areas (known as the "coral triangle"). Contrary to what already exists on the market, this new test developed by Vincent Bourgeteau, biologist at EcoSeaStems, evaluates the toxicity of products on 50 species/specimens of hard and soft corals (ReefTox50) to obtain a true representation of the coral population. A version on 12 corals (ReefTox12) is also proposed in case of doubt about the product or formula, to avoid the risk of damaging too many cuttings.

Over the past 1 year, our customers' requests for tests have increasingly focused on the ecotoxicity and biodegradability of their products, enabling us to verify the effect of an ingredient or finished product on the environment. Testing the impact of suncare products on corals enables us to support our customers in their quest for naturalness. This new partnership is in line with our approach, initiated over 20 years ago, of carrying out ecotoxicology (and biodegradability) tests in seawater and freshwater on
raw materials or cosmetic formulas.
 "emphasizes François Richeux, COO Cosmetics and Hygiene at SGS Group.

We are proud to have succeeded in developing this test, the first of its kind in France. We began working on the subject in 2020, at the start of containment. Worldwide, a large number of cosmetics laboratories have banned chemical UV filters and switched to mineral filters. ReefTox is the ideal solution for measuring the impact of these reformulations on coral environments. "says Vincent Bourgeteau, biologist at EcoSeaStems.

Corals, essential to the ecosystem

Corals, which come together to form coral reefs, are home to 25 % of life.
The world's coral reefs are home to almost two million different species. 500 million people depend on them for their livelihood.
Yet it is estimated that around a quarter of the world's coral reefs have already suffered irreversible damage, and two-thirds are seriously threatened. The cause continues to be human activity, which is gradually degrading marine habitats.

The foundations of an unprecedented test

To assess the short- and medium-term impact of a cosmetic ingredient on 50 coral species, the corals are placed in a seawater aquarium whose physico-chemical parameters (temperature, pH, oxidation-reduction, salinity) are controlled to meet coral culture requirements. After an adaptation period (2h), the sample to be tested is dosed and then placed in contact with the corals for approximately 24h. During this period, regular monitoring of water physico-chemical parameters, general condition and coral survival is carried out by and under the supervision of a coral aquaculture specialist.
At the end of the contact period, the corals are transferred to quarantine aquaria, containing standardized seawater, for a period of 2 weeks. During this quarantine period, the general condition and survival of the corals, as well as physico-chemical parameters, are regularly monitored by a coral aquaculture specialist.
Evaluation of the survival and general condition of the corals, as well as of the various physico-chemical parameters during the contact and quarantine periods, enables short- and medium-term assessment of the impact of the products to be tested.

SGS, a global offer for the world of cosmetics in search of naturalness

With world-renowned expertise in cosmetics testing, auditing and certification, SGS France carries out over 15,000 tests every year and works with over 800 customers to offer them a wide range of services to help brands verify the safety, quality and performance of their products, and support them in their ecological transition process.

This involves checking that cosmetics and personal care products comply with the requirements of applicable regulations and other relevant regulations on cosmetics, aerosols and hazardous substances. SGS experts can also verify the compliance of products and manufacturing processes with various social and environmental standards. At the same time, in the context of the circular economy, SGS teams are in great demand when it comes to bulk, reusable packaging (recycled or not) for technical, dosage and regulatory issues.

Stella McCartney Beauty's innovative cosmetic refills contain up to 90 % of Sabic's certified renewable polymers.

- Global value chain collaboration enables a breakthrough in the cosmetics market with refill containers and closures made almost entirely from certified mass-balancing polymers from Sabic's Trucircle portfolio.

- Renewable raw materials of plant origin support the customer's vegan brand image.

- Refillability, the use of renewable materials and recyclability combine to offer a sustainable packaging model.

Sabic, a global leader in the chemical industry, has teamed up with Stella McCartney Beauty and three renowned French plastics converters (Texen, Leygatech and STTP Emballage) to create a set of innovative new refill containers for skin and eye care, produced with certified renewable polymers from Sabic's Trucircle portfolio. The containers, which have already been introduced to the market in North America and the UK, are considered a global breakthrough in responsibly sourced and implemented cosmetic packaging.

Abdullah Al-Otaibi, Managing Director, ETP & Market Solutions at Sabic: " This innovation marks a significant step forward in the transformation of cosmetics and skincare packaging towards fully sustainable material alternatives. Furthermore, it demonstrates that our certified renewable polymers can facilitate change by providing effective replacement solutions without any compromise in terms of processability, purity, quality or convenience. "

The new refill containers have been designed for use with Stella Alter-Care serum and Restore cream. They contain three Sabic polyolefin resins with a mass-balanced content of up to 90 % of certified renewable raw materials, in line with the cosmetics manufacturer's vegan brand. The container heads are molded in impact-resistant Sabic HDPE polyethylene (PE) by Texen, a major player in the market for sustainable cosmetic packaging products. For the container bodies, Leygatech, a leading manufacturer of barrier and multi-layer films, supplies a Sabic LLDPE (linear low density polyethylene) film, which is then processed and printed for container finishing by STTP Emballage, a specialist supplier of film lamination and flexographic printing services. Injection-molded Flip Top closures by Texen in Sabic PP polymer complete the package.

With Stella McCartney Beauty's sustainable container refill concept, the use of renewable raw materials meets consumer demand for a more responsible use of packaging resources. What's more, once containers have reached the end of their useful life, the material value of PP and PE polymers can be recovered through polyolefin recycling, making it a sustainable packaging model.

Sabic's certified renewable polymers include various polypropylene and polyethylene materials derived from second-generation renewable feedstocks, which are selected to avoid direct competition with food and feed production and are not linked to direct or indirect land changes. A cradle-to-gate lifecycle analysis confirmed the superior sustainability of these polymers, concluding that each kg of the company's bio-based resins reduces CO2 emissions by an average of 4 kg compared to virgin fossil-based alternatives, while reducing fossil resource depletion by up to 80 %. What's more, these plant-based materials make it easier to switch from existing fossil applications without compromising on purity, quality, safety or convenience.

The mass balance of renewable raw materials in Sabic materials is validated by an independent third party according to the widely recognized International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISCC Plus) scheme, following a clearly defined and transparent set of rules. This approach enables the renewable content used in the production and conversion of plastic materials to be attributed to the final application. Certification also ensures traceability throughout partners' supply chains, from raw material to end product, and enables brand owners to document the sustainability of their packaging to consumers.

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